DIY_EFI Digest Monday, 22 July 1996 Volume 01 : Number 205 In this issue: Re: oil control Re: water injection questions Re: water injection questions smd components See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Seth Allen Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 11:59:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: oil control On Sun, 14 Jul 1996, William A. Sarkozy wrote: > Date: Sun, 14 Jul 1996 16:35:27 -0700 > From: William A. Sarkozy > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: oil control > > Hey all you turbo gurus...... > > Anybody have trouble containing oil in the turbos? I have a setup with 2 > brand-new turbos that leak oil badly into the hot section causing great > billows of blue smoke. > Application is SBC with high volume oil pump which delivers about 90 PSI > cold. Oil supply lines are #4AN and drains are #6AN back to top of oil pan > just below the block. I'm having trouble believing that BOTH units could > have been assembled improperly. Is the oil seal a mechanical unit or does > it have some sort of "packing gland" that can be replaced? Could I have > damaged it by excessive pressure, or could I just turn down the pressure and > hopefully solve the problem? I've never read anywhere that too much oil > (pressure) is bad for these things. > > Thanks in advance for any help you might provide..... > > > Bill > Two things--> is it a diesel turbo? The seals arent made to see much below 29 in Hg. With a partial vacuum (closed throttle) they will dump oil in the intake. The other is placement. Hope the turbo is well above oil level or else it won't drain well, if at all. Seth Allen Western Washington University FSAE ------------------------------ From: Mike Jankowski Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 09:48:37 +1000 Subject: Re: water injection questions I have used water/methanol mix on a 1985 mazda 323 turbo with good results. The water injection is only on when the turbo has reached full boost and the throttle ismore than 3/4 open. The water/methanol is injected into the airstream past after the air filter and allowed to flow through the turbo. We used a small electric motor, pressure regulator and a adjustable jet. The injection is switched on by using a pressure switch on the plenum and a microswitch on the throttle. The performance increase is very noticable, almost as good as a cold foggy morning. In very cold weather the water/methanol injection is not used because of the intake manifold icing up too quickly. This is a very simple and effective setup for a tubo car, but it would not be too hard to use the duration of the injector pulse to control the amount of water injected. A second input from the temperature sender to determine when the motor is cold would also be required to prevent the water injection from being used when the motor is cold. Mike At 01:05 AM 21/07/96 -0500, you wrote: >I was reading my friend's Car Craft from 1980 and noticed an article >involving water injection to reduce detonation. My question is: What >happened to this wonderful idea? I saw an ad toward the back of the >magazine in which Edelbrock that was selling their Vari-Injection >system. However, such a system is not in their catalog anymore, nor can >I find any mention of water injection in my current magazines. > > - -- ___________________________________________________________________________ Mike Jankowski Phone: 61 6 243 6966 Network Manager Fax: 61 6 243 6360 Department of Administrative Services email: janmik@xxx.au ___________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: Robert Yorke Date: Sun, 21 Jul 1996 20:38:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: water injection questions Water Injection Systems are still available from Spearco Performance Products, Inc., 14664 Titus Street, Panorama City, CA 91402. Their Phone number is: (818)901-7851 FAX: (818)785-4362 The part number for their complete system is P.N 980 Turbo Water Injection System; Price listed is $146.00 (This may have changed by now) This unit is controlled by an adjustable "O.E" quality pressure switch, for turbo engine use, so some other means of turning it on would have to be used on non-turbo cars. A 4-gallon aluminum reservoir is shown on the catalog page. A lot of people mix Methanol (50/50) with the water. Water alone will act to slow the combustion process; equivalent to raising the Octane rating (All Octane rating is, is a gauge of how fast a particular gasoline fuel burns in a combustion chamber). The ignition timing can then be CAREFULLY advanced to take advantage of this. With Methanol, you have a more pronounced effect (The equivalent Octane rating for Methanol is 105). If anybody tries this, be extremely careful. If you forget to keep the tank filled and you don't have sophisticated controls to either tell you of this or to shut the advance curve down to stock when there is no injection taking place, you will cause yourself a problem.... At 01:05 AM 7/21/96 -0500, you wrote: >I was reading my friend's Car Craft from 1980 and noticed an article >involving water injection to reduce detonation. My question is: What >happened to this wonderful idea? I saw an ad toward the back of the >magazine in which Edelbrock that was selling their Vari-Injection >system. However, such a system is not in their catalog anymore, nor can >I find any mention of water injection in my current magazines. > > 2 "88 GTs, both autos! ------------------------------ From: Krister Wikstrom Date: Mon, 22 Jul 1996 10:06:50 +0200 Subject: smd components Someone asked about manually soldering smd components. It should be no problem, if you have very fine tip on your soldering iron. I have succesfully (well, I have destroyed some pads...) mounted/removed many components, even a 386sx processor with very fine "legs". If you wish to remove a faulty chip, just try to cut the pins first and then clean up the pads. If you need to remove a chip without destroying it, use a thin isolated wire - put the wire under the chip, and then warm up one pin at a time simultaneously pulling the wire gently under the pin. This will work almost every time on SOIC, but PLCC package is another story. To mount a component, put little solder on each pad, then put the chip on top and warn each pin at a time to solder. This might require flux to make it easier, as the solder will behave much nicer with flux. It is very easy to remove smd resistors etc by using two soldering irons, or by shortly warming both pads many times. I'm working in a computer factory, and our board repair uses special tools to remove smd component, but all are manually mounted. This includes special chips with 200 pins. Oh, and magnifying glass will make it easier... Krister Wikstrom kwi@xxx.fi ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V1 #205 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".