DIY_EFI Digest Monday, 12 August 1996 Volume 01 : Number 228 In this issue: Re:hego Improving a Rover? HaHaHa Re: Throttle switch Re: Throttle switch Re: "Dropping" resistors ?? See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: talltom Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:38:10 -0700 Subject: Re:hego > ------------------------------ > > From: DJohn77284@xxx.com > Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 12:52:48 -0400 > Subject: HEGOs > > Can anyone offer advice in using a HEGO to set up carbs. Well, I've done it with Bosch K-jetronic, and the principles are the same. I know it's not EFI > but while I try to develope my own EFI system it's all I've got. I believe there's a efi factory system available for your application, but it's british, and sucks.(Can you tell, I'm Irish?) > At the moment I can achieve a brilliant setup at idle (using a CO meter) and > snap throttle is also crisp, albeit with no load, but out on the road heavy > applications of the throttle produces black exhaust like it's way too rich. > > I can't use my CO meter as the response is too slow so I was wondering about > using a HEGO sensor stuffed up the tail pipe. Hego sensors need to be HOT to work, and it won't be if stuffed up the backside. Will using the O2 sensor in > this position give accurate enough results (for carbs anyway) as all the > applications I've seen have the sensor located somewhere around the manifold. Mine is just a bung welded into the turbo discharge. You can pay $10-$20 for a manufactured bung, or find an axle nut off a metric vehicle with the same thread as a FORD spark plug, grind it, weld it and wala! > Thanks in advance, > > Dave Johnson > ------------------------------ From: talltom Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 02:55:47 -0700 Subject: Improving a Rover? HaHaHa > From: DJohn77284@xxx.com > Date: Sat, 10 Aug 1996 12:52:17 -0400 > Subject: My DIY EFI > > Just a quick note on my DIY EFI project. > > The end application at the moment is a Rover V8 which has no mods on it at > all. The main aim of this project being to improve drivability and economy > with hopefully a bit more power through more accurate setup. That ought to be pretty damned easy, those things drive horrible. I could do better with a carburetor. > > If anyone has any advice, comments or whatever, they will be gratefully > appriciated. While I haven't checked one out with revising the tune up in mind, just driving one around seemed like it was programmed to never go any richer than stoichiometric reguardless of anything.(90 Landrover defender) A real suck. I suspect that a factory throttle body/intake/ injector system would work just fine if the control was reprogrammed, or scrapped in place of one with a good hego that's programable. The approach your taking to efi seems good to me, but I don't claim to know enough to make that worth considering. > Regards, > > Dave Johnson > > ------------------------------ ------------------------------ From: Seth Allen Date: Sun, 11 Aug 1996 15:07:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Throttle switch On Thu, 1 Aug 1996, Jens Knickmeyer wrote: > Date: Thu, 1 Aug 1996 14:39:33 +0200 (MET DST) > From: Jens Knickmeyer > To: EFI Mailing List > Subject: Throttle switch > > Hi all! > > In my Polo-G40, I found the idle throttle switch to open > _before_ the throttle plate moved. When I had a friend of > mine pressing down the accellerator pedal, I heared the > click of the switch and shortly after that, the throttle > started to open. I always thought it should be the other way > round: the throttle opens a bit and then the switch opens > its contacts? > > The reason for my question is a problem during warm-up. > The engine starts perfectly, runs good during post-start > enrichment, but then suddenly acts a bit reluctantly. > When I press down the accellerator pedal only a little > bit, the engine revs 100rpm below its normal idle rpm. > Accelleration from idle rpms lets the engine tend to stall. > These effects vanish when the engine is warmed up. > > I wonder if the idle switch is adjusted correctly. The > VW service men said yes, but it would not be the first > time they are wrong, so I thought I'd better ask the > list members... > > Any help is apprciated, thanks in advance. > > Jens ('92 VW Polo-G40) > > ------------------------------------ > Jens Knickmeyer > Technische Universitaet Braunschweig > Mikroprozessorlabor > 38106 Braunschweig near Wolfsburg > knick@xxx.de > ------------------------------------ > > Hi Jens- I have only minimal experience with the g-lader motors. Just a few US- spec G60 corrados. Only when cold? It could be carbon build up on the back of the inlet valves like the old VW-audi problem in the 1970's. You could try adjusting the base idle with the 7mm brass scew in the throttle body (don't do it with the throttle stop). If this car has digifant, then I don't have much help to offer other than this. If it has CIS-E then you may even be able to fix it! Good luck, Seth Allen Western Washington Unversity (Vehicle Design) ------------------------------ From: Doug Robson Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 09:51:55 +1100 Subject: Re: Throttle switch About your switch, Most throttle switched are more to tell the computer that you are at idle so as you go on the gas its clicks off. On most Road engines the accelaration stuff is controlled my Manifold pressure or Airflow meter. Hope this helps - -- |===============================================================| | When I die, | | I want to go in my sleep, like my grandfather, | | not screaming like the passengers in his car. | |---------------------------------------------------------------| | Doug Robson mailto:doug@xxx.au | | Sydney, Australia http://www.cia.com.au/doug | |---------------------------------------------------------------| | Club Car Racing Register of NSW | Thank God | | 1992/93 Under 2 litre State Champion | for | | http://www.cia.com.au/doug/ccrrnsw.html | Gravity | |===============================================================| ------------------------------ From: lambs@xxx.au (Stephen Lamb) Date: Mon, 12 Aug 1996 11:27:32 +1000 Subject: Re: "Dropping" resistors ?? > Honda used to use the same type resistors as well as the Porsche 914's >with L-Jetronic Fuel Injection. Those might be sources for you, but >even simpler might be Radio Shack. They have some 8ohm 50watt ballast >resistors that we've used in the past for a similar app. They work fine >and dissipate plenty of heat. They have a few other ratings close to >this but that one might be the best and cheapest alternative. Todd, Thanks for that, I'll give them a try. Not being an electronics type, I assume from what your saying that the value of these resistors is not particularly critical within reason ?? Cheers Stephen Lamb Dept. of Defence DSTO, AMRL 506 Lorimer Street Fishermans Bend VIC 3207 Australia Tel: +61 3 9626 7525 Fax: +61 3 9626 7089 IZCC #180 ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V1 #228 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".