DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, 3 June 1997 Volume 02 : Number 189 In this issue: Re: O2 sensor fooler 72 lb/hr injectors? Re: 67F687 by Silicon Systems? efi fuel tank baffle Re: 5.0. EFI Conversion to '69 Mustang Re: 72 lb/hr injectors? Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: 67F687 by Silicon Systems? Re: MCF5206 Fuel Pump Recommendations for EFI '69 Mustang Conversion Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle RE: efi fuel tank baffle RE: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Re: efi fuel tank baffle Some new stuff o2 sensor fooler file and attachment Re: efi fuel tank baffle Knock Sensors See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Ross Myers" Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 23:04:13 +0000 Subject: Re: O2 sensor fooler > That's a good question, and I can't argue with you either way. Perhaps > you can tell me. When I have a scan tool hooked up and floor it, I still > get a reading and the status does not change to open-loop. I must admit I > was under the impression the ECM monitored the O2 reading at WOT, and my > scan tool seemed to bear that out. Am I missing the boat, here? Keep in > mind this engine is a HO Quad4 from a 1990 Beretta GTZ. > Wouldn't it be wise to always monitor the O2 reading...especially at > WOT? Absolutely it is a good idea to monitor the O2 at WOT, afterall we don't want to run too lean (bang!!). However a wide band O2 sensor must be used to get true accuracy. These are a 4 wire sensor that also cost several $100 I believe. I'll quote a passage from a Motec brochure on their Lambda meter - "Be Aware!!, Some competitive systems recently realeased onto the market utilise the correct sensors and provide resolution to one decimal place but do not provide the linearization and temperature correction contained in the MoTeC lambda meter. Without temperature correction it is common to see errors in the mixture strength of up to 1.0 air fuel/ratio. In other words an indicated value of 12.9:1 would be in the range of 11.9:1 to 13.9:1 in reality, leading to either lack of power, poor fuel consumption and poor emissions performance or potential engine damage from an overly lean mixture" Now this MoTeC lambda meter is worth $3,000+ Aus, so given all this, do you really feel that your factory O2 sensor & scan tool are giving you a "true" indication of mixture strength at WOT?. I'd be surprised. Bye Ross Myers Melbourne, Australia ------------------------------ From: James Thorne Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 07:55:50 -0500 Subject: 72 lb/hr injectors? Do any of you folks know where I can get 72 lb/hr injectors in a standard bosch configuration that use a 12V saturated driver input ie. on and off not peak and hold. The largest ones I have been able to locate are 50lb/hr units from MSD. Does anyone know if the Lucas 72s are peak and hold type or saturated driver? I am looking for 8 of these puppies. Thanks James Thorne ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 06:21:23 -0700 Subject: Re: 67F687 by Silicon Systems? 687' is now discontinued as last I know about Sandy ------------------------------ From: "John S. Gwynne" Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 11:26:54 -0400 Subject: efi fuel tank baffle - -------- First, please don't turn this thread into a discussion on how you should or should not weld to a gas tank... I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. John S Gwynne Gwynne.1@xxx.edu _______________________________________________________________________________ T h e O h i o - S t a t e U n i v e r s i t y ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: cloud@xxx.edu (Tom Cloud) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:32:39 +0000 Subject: Re: 5.0. EFI Conversion to '69 Mustang I posted this previously for Jim, but his return e-mail address was incorrect .... so, if anyone can help him, please reply directly to him at the "From" address below >From: "Jim Salinas" >To: "Tom Cloud" >Subject: Re: [CM:3553] Re: looking for Jim Salinas or Brian Fuller >Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 10:23:08 -0500 >X-MSMail-Priority: Normal > >Tom , this was the orginal message below : > >My e-mail address : ssalinas@xxx.net should be functional, my ISP was >changing servers , so that may have been the problem. > >1. The only real questions I have is what would be required to >convert my current fuel system for the EFI swap ('69 mustang). Is there a >cheap/good performance hi-pressure / hi-volume inline fuel pump that you >can recommend ? Recommendations for where to mount the return line ? Can I >install an intake fuel pump ? > >2. When I purchased the engine 1989 5.O. HO, I also got all the wiring >harnesses (main and engine) from the wrecked Mustang. >How feasible in time / cost / frustration would it be to retrofit this >harness to my application. I know SVO has a street rod harness that it >sells , cost ?? Where to get ? > >3. Yes , I would like to join the diy-efi or eec-iv. > > Thanks, Jim Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 09:56:14 -0700 Subject: Re: 72 lb/hr injectors? The only ones that I have seen are peak and hold. You might also check with some of the high perf suppliers and see what they have tested the injector to, ie, they usually can crank up the fuel pressure to get more out of a standard injector, but I would check with someone that does flow testing and matching to see what is really an OK amount to increase it by. Sandy At 07:55 AM 6/2/97 -0500, you wrote: >Do any of you folks know where I can get 72 lb/hr injectors in a standard bosch configuration >that use a 12V saturated driver input ie. on and off not peak and hold. The largest ones I have >been able to locate are 50lb/hr units from MSD. Does anyone know if the Lucas 72s are peak >and hold type or saturated driver? I am looking for 8 of these puppies. > >Thanks >James Thorne > > ------------------------------ From: mcosta@xxx.com Date: Mon, 02 Jun 97 12:50:30 EST Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle John, A friend of mine who fuel injected his 67 mustang, ran into the same question. What he ended up doing was creating a right triangle shaped sump and used that to collect fuel and minimize slosh. i believe it was about 3-4 inches deep and about 8-10 inches long. I'm not sure what less he did internally to the tank but I hope this at least gives you some food for thought. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: efi fuel tank baffle Author: diy_efi@xxx.edu at INTERNET Date: 6/2/97 12:45 PM - -------- First, please don't turn this thread into a discussion on how you should or should not weld to a gas tank... I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. John S Gwynne Gwynne.1@xxx.edu _______________________________________________________________________________ T h e O h i o - S t a t e U n i v e r s i t y ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297 - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 10:03:17 -0700 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle John - Call ATL Research. They are the ones that make most of the serious Race Fuel Cells. Their catalog has cut aways of a bunch of their racing fuel cells and pickup configurations. I bought one a while ago, it was really expensive (piece of mind thingie...) about $600 for a 22 Gal Aluminum cell, it is filled up with foam, and has some trick fuel pickups. The ideas should be the same for steel, or fuel cell types. They sell many of the parts too! ATL 1-800-526-5330 Sandy At 11:26 AM 6/2/97 -0400, you wrote: >-------- > >First, please don't turn this thread into a discussion on how you >should or should not weld to a gas tank... > >I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a >few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank >nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what >might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. > > John S Gwynne > Gwynne.1@xxx.edu >___________________________________________________________________________ ____ > T h e O h i o - S t a t e U n i v e r s i t y > ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA > Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7297 >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---- > > > ------------------------------ From: "steve ravet" Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:01:13 +0000 Subject: Re: 67F687 by Silicon Systems? > Date: Sun, 1 Jun 1997 15:11:52 +0900 (JST) > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > From: Robert Levin > Subject: 67F687 by Silicon Systems? > Reply-to: diy_efi@xxx.edu > The DIY reference list at http://www.dcc.edu/vettenet/efi_ref.txt > says the 67F687 MSIC device is made by Silicon Systems in Tustin, > CA. > > But the Silicon Systems web page at http://www.ssi1.com shows only > parts used in data storage devices, such as hard disks. Is the > 67F687, or similar part, still available? That part has unfortunately been cancelled. That is an old version of the EFI reference document. A more up to date version is on the diy-efi WWW site. I also post it occasionally to the list, but I haven't made many changes to it recently. - --steve ------------------------------ From: Rod Barman Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 12:09:01 UTC-0700 Subject: Re: MCF5206 > would building the efi332 CPU and serial port modules be a better > method?? While the coldfire chips are nice processors for a good price they don't have the infamous TPU (time processing unit). If you cruise over to the efi332 web page you will discover why the tpu is so great and why it saves you a ton of effort. Also, the '332 is now fairly easy to get and not too expensive. Funny, but when we started the efi332 project they were still new and exciting. I'd suspect that both the coldfire and power pc controllers will eventually get the TPU module (plus A/D, flash, etc) if they don't already. - --rod. - -- Rod Barman, IRIS IS-6 @ Laboratory for Computational Intelligence University of British Columbia rodb@xxx.ca ------------------------------ From: "Jim Salinas" Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 14:56:24 -0500 Subject: Fuel Pump Recommendations for EFI '69 Mustang Conversion First, I'd like to thank all those who responded to my previous question relating the fuel return line. I need a recommendation for an inline fuel pump for my conversion. I found a Vortech inline T-Rex for $200 some odd dollars . Someone locally at a speed shop recommended a pump out of a Porsche, he said they came with Bosche inline pumps. Unfortunately, he couldn't find the part # or provide me with model/year either ? The engine will be pulling 250-280 HP. While were at it what about pressure regualators and gauges. Keeping in mind cost/performance. ------------------------------ From: James Weiler Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 14:14:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a > few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank > nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what > might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have an info on how much of a problem this really is? jw ------------------------------ From: peter paul fenske Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 15:10:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle Hi gang Don't have a direct answer but there are two alternatives. Go down to neighborhood wreck I mean veh recycle shop and look or look in JTR book on TPI or S10. there are a couple of pics there. CUYall:peter At 02:14 PM 6/2/97 -0700, you wrote: > > >On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > >> I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a >> few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank >> nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what >> might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. > >Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have >an info on how much of a problem this really is? >jw > > ------------------------------ From: Kurt Bilinski Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 15:55:24 -0700 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle At 02:14 PM 6/2/97 -0700, you wrote: > > >On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > >> I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a >> few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank >> nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what >> might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. > >Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have >an info on how much of a problem this really is? >jw > I think the "right" way would be to have two pickups at each rear corner. These would feed two low pressure pumps which dump into a small sump (kind of like a dry sump). A third pump, at the appropriate pressure would then feed the engine from that tank. For a simpler approach, a physical sump could be positioned at the rear center of the tank, with a volume sufficient to feed the engine during the longest turn. I had an oil pan with "mousetrap" doors that supposedly trapped oil near the pickup. I suppose this could be tried for the gas tank too. It just seemed to me the gas could run right around the doors, reducing or eliminating their effectiveness. Just my opinion, Kurt ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:09:03 -0400 Subject: RE: efi fuel tank baffle > First, please don't turn this thread into a discussion on how you > should or should not weld to a gas tank... No Sweat John, we know you know not to weld the tank with the gas inside . > nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what > might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. An approach that work's well is to measure the diameter of the fuel pickup, or pickup and fuel pump. Quadruple that measurement, and cut a piece of thin steel approximately 4" high by the quadrupled measurement. Then, on the bottom of the long side, cut notches about 1/2"x1" (approximately, doesnt have to be exact), and then roll that rectangle into a cylinder, and tack weld it together. What you should have is a 3-4" cylinder with a straight top and a notched bottom. Tack weld that cylinder to the bottom of your tank, and put the fuel pickup back in. This works assuming you can seperate the tank without mutilating it. Another option is to make the same cylinder, make inside pieces to tack the cylinder (notch down) to the fuel pump, and put the whole thing in as an assembly. Just some non-flaming thoughts... Frederic Breitwieser Homebrew Automotive Mailing List Website: http://members.aol.com/fjb203/index.htm Email: frederic.breitwieser@xxx.com Bridgeport, Connecticut ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:28:49 -0400 Subject: RE: efi fuel tank baffle > Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have > an info on how much of a problem this really is? Actually, my original idea was more work than its worth. Someone posted the right solution.. cut a rectangular hole, and make a sump. Then move the fuel intake/pump a little lower into the sump. If "off the line" starves your engine, make the deeper part towards the back of the tank :) Frederic Breitwieser Homebrew Automotive Mailing List Website: http://members.aol.com/fjb203/index.htm Email: frederic.breitwieser@xxx.com Bridgeport, Connecticut ------------------------------ From: george lee Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 23:25:55 +0000 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle At 09:14 PM 6/2/97 +0000, you wrote: > > >On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > >> I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a >> few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank >> nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what >> might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. > >Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have >an info on how much of a problem this really is? >jw >STAINLESS STEEL NEEDS A TIG WELDER . I DON'T THINK A WELDING SHOP WILL TAKE THIS ON BECAUSE OF THE NEVER ENDING VAPORS. UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO START WITH A NEW TANK I WOULDN'T TOUCH IT . WHEN A LEAK DEVELOPS IN AN EXISTING TANK A CHEW OF DOUBLE BUBBLE GUM WORKS WONDERS TRUST ME . BEEN THERE DONE THAT I HAVE WORKED ON AUTOMOBILES FOR 45 YEARS. ------------------------------ From: "Christopher G. Moog" Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:52:01 -0400 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle > On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > > > I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a > > few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank I'm quoting from TK Garret "Automotive Fuels and Fuel Systems Volume 1: Gasoline" Copywrite 1991 SAE "... a result, when the level in the tank has fallen ... especially when cornering, all the fuel may swill to one side ... To counter this, some manufacturers install inside the tank a large cylindrical surge-pot, usually having an open top, to surround the submerged petrol pump and its take-up pipe ... In a square tank, holes or slots in the sides of the pot, but at the level of its baseallow fuel to flow in and out. In wide flat tanks, however, they may be in the front and rear walls of the po, so that fuel does not flow out when cornering ... In all cases, the holes are of a size such that the pot is filled at a rate much faster than that at which fuel is being consumed by the engine ..." He goes on to describe a series of oneway valves that VW used in their swirl pot. In addition the fuel return line usually returns fuel to the pot. ------------------------------ From: Johnny Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 18:53:42 -0700 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle Kurt Bilinski wrote: > > At 02:14 PM 6/2/97 -0700, you wrote: > > > > > >On Mon, 2 Jun 1997, John S. Gwynne wrote: > > > >> I have a 22 gal stainless steal "regular" gas tank. I intend to add a > >> few internal baffle plates to reduce the amount fuel slosh as the tank > >> nears empty. I would like some comments and suggestion as to what > >> might work best (geometry, orientation, sizes....). Thanks. > > > >Ohhh.. damn good question!! I'm interested too. First does anybody have > >an info on how much of a problem this really is? > >jw > > > > I think the "right" way would be to have two pickups at each rear corner. > These > would feed two low pressure pumps which dump into a small sump (kind of like > a dry sump). A third pump, at the appropriate pressure would then feed the > engine > from that tank. > > For a simpler approach, a physical sump could be positioned at the > rear center of the tank, with a volume sufficient to feed the engine during > the > longest turn. > > I had an oil pan with "mousetrap" doors that supposedly trapped oil near > the pickup. > I suppose this could be tried for the gas tank too. It just seemed to me > the gas > could run right around the doors, reducing or eliminating their effectiveness. The mouse trap doors don't need to provide a tight seal. All they need to do to be effective is to keep the fuel from rushing away from the pickup. The foam is effective as a "deslosher" too. By preventing the fuel from rushing horizontally, and providing a box sump in the bottom rear of the tank, gravity in the down direction (highest average time) will prevail. If you were going to turn left only, you would put it in the right rear (obviously). The other idea mentioned (using a header tank) might be easier to implement given that you have enough space for it. By just adding say a 5 gal fuel cell (or even smaller), and using a cheapo pump to transfer from the main to the header tank, you will almost always have 4-5 gal sitting on your main pump supplying the engine. You can restrict the vent on the header tank to a pinhole, then run it back to the main tank. This will keep the header full all the time, but the transfer pump won't have to run full bore all the time just to cycle the vent line. I think you can get an RCI 4 gal job for about 85 bucks. - -j- ------------------------------ From: Johnny Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:05:28 -0700 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle george lee wrote: > STAINLESS STEEL NEEDS A TIG WELDER . I DON'T THINK A WELDING SHOP WILL TAKE > THIS ON BECAUSE OF THE NEVER ENDING VAPORS. UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO START WITH > A NEW TANK I WOULDN'T TOUCH IT . WHEN A LEAK DEVELOPS IN AN EXISTING TANK A > CHEW OF DOUBLE BUBBLE GUM WORKS WONDERS TRUST ME . BEEN THERE DONE THAT I > HAVE WORKED ON AUTOMOBILES FOR 45 YEARS. You don't have to weld anything. If you are going to go the cut the hole and add the baffle route, you can just use pull rivets and polysulfite sealant... like Proseal. Still have to drill holes though, so use an air drill. You can get the premade sump part from Summit for about 50 bucks. You can get Proseal from most any aviation supplier. - -j- ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Mon, 02 Jun 1997 19:27:29 -0700 Subject: Some new stuff To All- I just have a bunch of clipping hangging around on the desk some may be of interest to the folks out in TV land. There are items that are related to EFI, DIYEFI, Automotive, programming etc. ======== Pickups - Panasonic Has a couple of new sensors, using a magneto-resistive technology that has a temp range of -40 to +150c. Air gap up to 1.5mm, and 0hz-15khz range. Look like they were designed for the Automotive industry. Contact Karen Erzen, Panasonic Industrial 313.455.1740 Connectors - Positronic Industries has the Infinity Series that look really good for PCB mounting with high current and lots'o contacts. Connectors are for hot swap power supplies, and features up to 56 pin count in several configurations. Including Rt. Angle PCB, PCB, Bulkhead, and High Current Pins. Standard pins are 25 Amp rated, and High Current pins rated at 40 Amps. Lots of options. I have some coming for eval. The are not cheep, a connector pair with machine pins are about $60 for the rt angle pcb and the matching mate with pins. Positronic Industries 800.641.4054 PC Dyno Software - Saw this in May Hot Rod, Low cost PC Windows based dyno program, $9.95 USD (+ $1 Outside US). Looks somewhat interesting, has anyone tried this program? Accepts M/C, Visa, Check, Money Order. Sorry no phone number or web site listed. Controlled Induction 24650 Leafwood Drive Murrieta, CA 92562 332' Based SBC - Vesta Technologies has released the new version of the SBC332, the SBC2000-332. Includes up to 1meg of each Flash, Rom, Ram. 2 Serial ports, BDM, and other expansion. Size of 3.75"x4.85". Supported development environment include Multi-Tasking Basic and SDS cross code. 20Mhz price starts at $299 Qty 1 Assembled with mostly surface mount, not 332' socket. Vesta Technologies 303-422-9800 Books and such - Society of Automotive Engineers. You should call them up and get on the mailing list. They have most of the books on engines and related electronics. They also have the BOSCH RED handbooks which are a pretty good start, as well as any related books on automotive engineering. Discounts for those that are SAE members. SAE Order line 412.776.4970 (CAUTION BLATENT COMPANY PLUG AHEAD) Software Tools Delphi 3.0 released from Borland International. Delphi 3.0 features a 'ton' of new stuff, OLAP, distributed databases, one step ActiveX creation, new charting, new reporting, Web functionality and a ton of features to help the novice programmer not make the mistake of buying Visual Basic! Full EXE, no BS 'Psuedo' compiles, no DLL for ActiveX, all the stuff that Mr. Bill forgot to tell you when using VB. Available in low cost version to full Client Server and Multi-Tier version. For those that must hack C/C++ but find Visual C++ Not very visual, C++ builder allows the development of TRUE C++ code the way Delphi does. No lame wizards, true 2-way tools, with all the meat eating power that C++ offers. Based on the same proven component library as Delphi. Available in low cost version and full Client Server version. And finally comming soon (hopefully) JBuilder. Full Delphi like 2 way Java tool. Based on 1.1 JDK. Included FULL Java Beans component integration, unlike most other tools. All native code, no special files (like Asymetrix Supercede), No lame code blocks like Cafe, no bogus 'Non-Visual' like environment like J++. Tool parses code in the background to reflect any code changes to the application. JDBC native drivers for Interbase, etc. Again this is a comming soon. I have the beta's and it looks really good for those waiting to do some real Java development, not just 'craplets'. Check the web site for more information. http://www.borland.com (END OF BLATENT COMPANY PLUG) Hope this is useful! Sandy ------------------------------ From: Seth Allen Date: Mon, 2 Jun 1997 20:42:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: o2 sensor fooler file and attachment This message is in MIME format. The first part should be readable text, while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools. Send mail to mime@xxx. - --0-111823806-865308054=:11885 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Content-ID: Here is the o2 sensor .gif file. It should work, I haven't tried it but others at my school have used it and with success. Use it at your own risk, I can't even vouch for it as I haven't even seen it yet (the .gif) Incidentally, it is designed for two o2 inputs, like on the pre and post cat o2 sensors on chryslers. The radio shck op amp is a quad style. The other note I took on the device read that it reduces o2 senor output from 0 to 50% so that high voltage when rich is reduced to a lower (leaner appearing) voltage. I don't have the P/N for the potentiometers. Good luck, Seth Allen - --0-111823806-865308054=:11885 Content-Type: IMAGE/GIF; NAME="Circuit.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: BASE64 Content-ID: Content-Description: use at own risk! 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aae2yhj+wHS87WrObTKOSpy0ZG6NT/KV0eUGZuOu5+FkSqdW7n+l7exF6ujO HbWlbv8c5XTp4LTOaxiVWIhdV9kOXOBu7ZKFaUnG7KdG73eBY2glTva+7veO ye6tpvnGb6LMbrGl7/xObtJ84O686f/uuSVeXx/1bcgFYQnXZh7Vzgpe4wV0 zRK366lN273m1IhVYG628H7GoheX8XIc0hm38XUusBvXcZEK0x338R8H8iAX 8iEn8iI38iNH8iRXDPIlZ/Imd/InH46AAAA7 - --0-111823806-865308054=:11885-- ------------------------------ From: "Watson, Bill" Date: Tue, 3 Jun 1997 07:03:00 -0700 Subject: Re: efi fuel tank baffle Well, I've been thru this same question; multiple pumps, flapper doors, sump on bottom, surge tank, and have come up with what I consider to be the ideal solution.. see what you think. It has two non-moving baffles. I'll try to draw it below, bear with me; - --------------------------------------------------------- | **** | | * | | * | | * * | | * * * | | ** * * ****** | | ** ** ***** | | **** ** P ******** | | ********* * * ** | | * * ** | | * * | | * | | * | | **** | - --------------------------------------------------------- This is a top view, the top of the screen is 'forward'. 'P' is the pump location. This cheesy plot above doesn't show some of the good details, but I hope we can see the idea. Connect the 'two sets of dots' with a china pencil on your screen. The concept is that during Turns, Accels or decels, fuel is directed to the pump from these, say, 6" tall baffles. The baffles do wrap around the pump more than shown, (quite a bit, but I couldn't easily show it) to keep fuel from just running by the pump. Baffles do NOT go all the way to each side, allowing fuel to equilibrate in depth between maneuvers. This design allows a in-tank pump (which I consider to be quieter) and in my case, I have two side-by-side; running only one most all of the time when fuel reqt's are low, then the DFI turns on a second pump under specific boost conditions where one pump just won't cut it. This way you can buy cheaper, low flow pumps, have the convenience of swapping wires if the pump dies to get home, and not have to buy the expensive mongo pump for the 15 seconds a day you actually need the flow. PS, port the return line to the pump area too. Hope this helps, it sure helped my project. Bill ------------------------------ From: Aron Travis Date: Tue, 03 Jun 1997 09:18:48 -0700 Subject: Knock Sensors I was browsing the DIY_EFI web site and read the statement that knock sensors are 'engine sensitive', implying that they are unique to the particular engine that they are designed for. Is it possible retrofit a knock senser? If not, why? If so, any recomendations to junkyard sources? - -Aron Travis- "always in a automotive frenzy" ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V2 #189 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".