DIY_EFI Digest Monday, 11 August 1997 Volume 02 : Number 267 In this issue: SV: Adjusting Boost Software for Chrysler Re: Too good to let go by RE: Software for Chrysler Re: EPROM Compatibility Question Re: Too good to let go by Adjusting Boost Re: Adjusting Boost Re: SV: Adjusting Boost Re: Adjusting Boost Re: Home Dyno Re: SV: Adjusting Boost Re: Home Dyno Re: Home Dyno Super 60 cam Re: Adjusting Boost Re: Motorola FI driver? Re: Home Dyno Re: Too good to let go by Re: Disable VATS fuel injection conversion Re: EPROM Compatibility Question See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Stefan Olsson" Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 13:44:36 +0200 Subject: SV: Adjusting Boost > > So the Saab APC sounds like a very good alternative to most of those > > overpriced EBCs out there...but does it allow any form of adjustability as > > far as raising the boost pressures? And if so, is it easy to do so (i.e. just > > turn a knob or push a few buttons like on most EBCs)? > > Not as easy as the other EBCs. You have to remove the top half of the > ECU's case (The ECU is a plastic box about 6" x 8" in size, with two > screws holding the two halves of the case together), which exposes the > circuit board. On the board, you should find three adjustment pots, > usually labeled "K," "F," and "P" (John Bertram, who is also a Saab > technician, believes that the "K" stands for 'knock', the "F" stands for > 'frequency', and the "P" stands for 'pressure'.) According to John, not > even master Saab technicians know how to adjust the "K" and "F" pots -- > I guess because they don't have the test equipment for it -- so he just > says to leave 'em alone. Adjust the "P" pot clockwise to raise the > boost pressure. I would recommend trying it in 1/4-turn increments > until you get it set where you want it. John has determined that, on > his APC installation, rotating the "P" pot to its stop results in a > maximum boost pressure of 16 psi. I haven't adjusted mine yet, although > I'm guessing mine is probably set to between 10 and 11 psi. > > There's more to the APC story, though, although I'm less than conversant > with all the nuances: there are several different types of APC ECUs. > John's website gives you specific data as to which car models and year > models have the best APC systems for our purposes. Even within these > models, though, there is some variation. For example, Saab made the > standard "black box" APC, but they also made a special, high-performance > "red box" APC. Depending on who you talk to, the red box is anywhere > from not much different to much different. I managed to find a red box > model for my car by sheer luck. So far it doesn't appear to be much > different, but then I haven't started playing with the boost yet, > either. > > Now here's the other side of the coin: So far, I know of two complaints > Saab owners have regarding the APC, one minor, one not so minor. The > minor complaint centers on Saab's decision to taper the boost off at > high revs. With my cheezy, non-calibrated boost gauge, you can see the > boost needle back off slightly under full boost at high rpms. I suspect > Saab does this to decrease the likelihood of detonation at extremes. > And this brings me to the second complaint: many Saab owners allege that > the APC is =too= sensitive, and is misinterpreting other engine noises > as pinging. When the APC detects pinging, it will back off the boost in > 1.5 psi incrememts, which can put a crimp in your style in a hurry if > it's misinterpreting what it hears. In its defense, however, I must say > that I have not had an occasion yet where it has backed off the boost > due to pinging, either real or imaginary, and neither, to my knowledge, > has John. So, it may be that this symptom is more commonplace with Saab > engines than with non-Saab ones. How ironic. > > One of the reasons why I bring this up is because I suspect that there > are folks on this list who possess the knowhow to crack the mysteries of > the enigmatic "K" and "F" settings. It seems likely to me that the "K" > setting corresponding to a volume sensitivity control, and the "F" > setting is simply a filter that will tune the APC to a specific > bandwidth. But then, I barely know which end of a soldering iron is the > business end, so don't put too much credence in what I have to say :) > > -- > Best, > > Michael McBroom > Hi all The APC-system is developed in my hometown ! We have worked alot with this APC-system when we have tuned Saabs and Volvos. Its very easy if You only whant small changes in engine output. P stands for Pressure (thats the only pot to adjust if You whant small changes) K stands for Knocksensor sensitivity. In the early days we adjusted this pot clockweise untill we could here the engine pinging and then we retarded a little bit. (later we used a knocklink to determen if there was som pinging) F stands for Fading (a Saab ing. told me this) and this pot regulates how fast the boost will rise and go down (ithink You can also call it Frequens because thats what it is controling) There is always a problem when You whant some high power output from this systems because the boost will rise very quickly in high gears and then when You are at peakboost the knocks makes the ignition to retard (if the ignitionsystem have a knocksensor) rapidly so then You have lost all power again (boost goes down and ignition retards at the same time) I remember that we made some modifications in the system and sold it as a tuningkit for Saabs. I can not tell You every mods (still selling a few) but the system works better if You shortcut resistor R42. We are selling the kit with the P-pot installed on the dashboard together with a chip for the enginemanagement. Best Regards Stefan http://www.algonet.se/~datac/bsr.sportsman/ ------------------------------ From: dusher@xxx.com Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:01:23 BST Subject: Software for Chrysler Does anyone know of any 'FREE' software to read out the codes + realtime stuff ? from Chrysler products? . Many Thanks to all this is the first ive looked at this page!? GR8 bye - -- ------------------------------ From: Frank Piccolo Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:42:02 -0400 Subject: Re: Too good to let go by A Friend of mine bought it for his firebird. After cat went bad he let me dismantle it. It out to be just a piezo speaker with a little pin hole to let air in to lean out the car. In short, just junk. Joe Boucher wrote: > >>to anyone interested in automotive fuel systems. > >>http://www.inett.com/himac/ > > > > [snip] > > >I bet with a MAGNET attached to my fuel line I could energize the > atoms, > >or was that molecules?, whatever, and get even more free energy from > its > >intrinsic poential. If I tie in RADIO waves, and ELECTRONIC beams > that > >the government uses to spy on me, I could make it fly, maybe even go > >into SPACE, where the MAGNETIC FLUX would propel me ever onward. > > > >Hmmmm. Then again maybe not. Oh well, sigh.... > > > > Funny you should mention radio waves. I have a brochure for a device > that > sends ultrasonic sound into the manifold via the pcv valve tubing that > > furthur atomizes the fuel droplets. > > Joe ("I'll take two") Boucher > '81 TBI Suburban "70 RS/SS Camaro > Bedford, TX ------------------------------ From: James Boughton Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:57:34 -0400 Subject: RE: Software for Chrysler Chrysler systems should read the codes out of the Check Engine light if you turn the ignition on and off three times quickly without starting the engine. The light will flash the first number then the second number of the code (i.e. a 12 will flash once, wait a second, then flash two times). This is Chryslers version of the blinkee codes that you can get out of GM cars by jumpering pins A and B in the ALDL then turning on the ignition. If you get a code let me know and I will see if I can tell you what it is for. I need to know the model, engine, and year. Also, the blinkee codes are a general code and will typically only tell you what system is being affected (e.g. ignition system or fuel system) and won't tell you the exact code. Jim Boughton boughton@xxx.net - ---------- From: dusher@xxx.com] Sent: Sunday, August 10, 1997 10:01 AM To: DIY_EFI@xxx.edu Subject: Software for Chrysler Does anyone know of any 'FREE' software to read out the codes + realtime stuff ? from Chrysler products? . Many Thanks to all this is the first ive looked at this page!? GR8 bye - -- ------------------------------ From: Terry Martin Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 09:39:54 -0700 Subject: Re: EPROM Compatibility Question Sandy wrote: > > HELP - I have a EPROM question, and don't have the data books. Here's the > problem. I'm trying to get this 68332 Board up, and the EPROM's that I > purchased are Toshiba TC571000AD's The board uses a 27C010A. Are these > compatible. My programmer can program them just fine, but they don't seem > to be working. They do check out as programed from the programmer, and the > data in them looks good. > > Help! > > Sandy Try a verify of the device data against the programmer several different ways. Use the device limits against the entire programmer ram. I suspect that the programmer loads at 0000h and if you don't set the device offset it will start your device run address at 0000h. You may require the start address of the device (offset) to tell the programmer start loading the device from "####h". It may also be neccesary to tell the programmer to stop at the device end, or it will continue to dump redundant data until the device is full. You could should also check your programmer's device support list. If it doesn't support the device, it may recognize it as valid anyhow, and the data ends up all screwed up. You could possibly go up to a 27C128. I don't have a criss-cross for the device but using one with excess capacity normally shouldn't bug it. Oh yeah, it might sound stupid but it's easy to miss; make sure your programmer is checking the programmed device data against the programmer data. Start by filling the entire programmer ram with "empty" (FF), and reload your data. I've been stumped on this one because the programmer retained old data from soemthing else, and simply wrote the new stuff in without clearing the remaining old stuff. Terry ------------------------------ From: Terry Martin Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 10:07:33 -0700 Subject: Re: Too good to let go by Frank Piccolo wrote: > > A Friend of mine bought it for his firebird. After cat went bad he let > me dismantle it. It out to be just a piezo speaker with a little pin > hole to let air in to lean out the car. In short, just junk. So were his valves if he ran it that way very long. It defies explanation why some magical device is accepted by normally thinking individuals. If the only way his car got better mileage was to lean out the car, why not just take your foot off the gas once in a while, and stop leaving rubber to and from stop lights? I know a heavy duty mechanic in charge of the mechanical shop at a mill that thinks installing a magnetron out of a conventional oven into the manifold will "energize" the gas charge and produce smaller droplets resulting in greatly improved efficiency. Well maybe, but I wonder if it will do grilled cheese too? I suspect you'd need a high energy maser to do anything at all to the manifold charge, and one induced spark puts the power stroke inside of the manifold. Everything blowed up good!! Has nobody ever heard of volumetric efficiency? If you "vibrate" something hard enough, it gets hot, hence micro-wave ovens work. Unfortunately, hot + manifold charge = expansion of the mixture, and less of a charge per volume of intake stroke. It's the same as taking your foot off the gas. Now if somebody came up with a means to create and store liquid metallic hydrogen without visiting Jupiter... Terry ------------------------------ From: bibie@xxx.com (Bibiana Lim) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 01:26:29 +0800 Subject: Adjusting Boost Van, You Wrote: >What do you mean that the wastegate is non-adjustable? Most all wastegates >use a vacuum source to operate...and you can "control" the boost by tapping >into that vacuum line and limiting the amount of boost going to the >wastegate. >To do so, you can use anything from a cheap little bleeder valve, to a more BTW...when you say bleed...where do you bleed the pressure to? Can the bleed be dumped into the "PCV" hose? or back to the intake .. just between the airflow meter and turbo? Bibie ------------------------------ From: DemonTSi@xxx.com Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 16:20:38 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: Adjusting Boost In a message dated 97-08-10 13:57:37 EDT, you write: << BTW...when you say bleed...where do you bleed the pressure to? Can the bleed be dumped into the "PCV" hose? or back to the intake .. just between the airflow meter and turbo? >> Well, a bleeder valve would go into that vacuum line that runs to the wastegate. It controls the amount of air going to the wastegate...which limits the travel of the wastegate's spring...which would raise the boost. The air that is "bled" off just goes nowhere. So basically, imagine putting a simple valve onto the vacuum line...and that's pretty much what it is. Van ------------------------------ From: DemonTSi@xxx.com Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 16:18:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: SV: Adjusting Boost In a message dated 97-08-10 08:14:49 EDT, you write: << There is always a problem when You whant some high power output from this systems because the boost will rise very quickly in high gears and then when You are at peakboost the knocks makes the ignition to retard (if the ignitionsystem have a knocksensor) rapidly so then You have lost all power again (boost goes down and ignition retards at the same time) I remember that we made some modifications in the system and sold it as a tuningkit for Saabs. I can not tell You every mods (still selling a few) but the system works better if You shortcut resistor R42. We are selling the kit with the P-pot installed on the dashboard together with a chip for the enginemanagement. >> If the system also retards the ignition timing...then does that mean that it is connected to the car's ECU? Can the Saab APC be used as a totally independent boost controller? Van ------------------------------ From: Michael McBroom Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 14:33:17 -0700 Subject: Re: Adjusting Boost Bibiana Lim wrote: > BTW...when you say bleed...where do you bleed the pressure to? Can the bleed > be dumped into the "PCV" hose? or back to the intake .. just between the airflow > meter and turbo? Typically, upstream of the turbo intake and downstream of the air meter. My car has a PCV line that connects to the air intake at this point. The bleed air line is teed in there. - -- Best, Michael McBroom '87 745T 123k w/APC Visit the Volvo Performance Site: '88 765T 156k http://mcbrooms.com/volvo _________________________________________________________________________ Graduate Student, Linguistics Author of Research Interest: Biological Origins =McBroom's Camera Bluebook= of Language http://mcbrooms.com California State University, Fullerton _________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: eppu@xxx.fi (Jari Porhio) Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 00:41:13 +0300 (EET DST) Subject: Re: Home Dyno > > If you are interested, please check: > > http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm. I still don't see any mention of drivetrain inertia losses on this page. Does the equation ignore inertia altogether, or what's happening here? For reference, see this torque/power curve with the correct inertia (upper curve), and zero inertia (lower): http://www.iki.fi/eppu/dev/revtest/Toyota_Carina_3T-GTEU.html __________________________________________________________________________ Jari Porhio eppu@xxx.fi : No offence :) ------------------------------ From: Michael McBroom Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 15:16:00 -0700 Subject: Re: SV: Adjusting Boost DemonTSi@xxx.com wrote: > << There is always a problem when You whant some high power output from this > systems because the boost will rise very quickly in high gears and then > when You are at peakboost the knocks makes the ignition to retard (if the > ignitionsystem have a knocksensor) rapidly so then You have lost all power > again (boost goes down and ignition retards at the same time) > I remember that we made some modifications in the system and sold it as a > tuningkit for Saabs. I can not tell You every mods (still selling a few) > but the system works better if You shortcut resistor R42. > We are selling the kit with the P-pot installed on the dashboard together > with a chip for the enginemanagement. >> > > If the system also retards the ignition timing...then does that mean that it > is connected to the car's ECU? Can the Saab APC be used as a totally > independent boost controller? Stefan was referring to the Bosch ignition system, which retards the timing when detonation is detected. I don't know how he does the APC installations on non-Saabs, but on my Volvo, I piggybacked the APC knock sensor on top of the ignition knock sensor (they're both identical Bosch units). So, what happens is, when pinging is detected, both boost and timing are retarded. It makes for a safe combination, but if one wants to go fast, one had better figure out how to stay out of detonation :) - -- Best, Michael McBroom '87 745T 123k w/APC Visit the Volvo Performance Site: '88 765T 156k http://mcbrooms.com/volvo _________________________________________________________________________ Graduate Student, Linguistics Author of Research Interest: Biological Origins =McBroom's Camera Bluebook= of Language http://mcbrooms.com California State University, Fullerton _________________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: Simon Quested Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 11:35:14 +1200 Subject: Re: Home Dyno Hi All Well I decided to shell out the $40 for the program. I don't really care how accurate it is as long as it is consistent. To me it looks like it could be a use full tool for tuning as it will show the change in performance...which is the important thing ..... once my car is tuned I'll then pay the shop to dyno it so that I know for sure how much power it's putting out. Cheers +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@xxx.nz) Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support Centre for Computing and Biometrics LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ f u cn rd ths, u cn gt a gd jb n cmptr prgmmng +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ From: John O Hornfeck Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 21:09:19 -0700 Subject: Re: Home Dyno Simon Quested wrote: > > Hi All > > Well I decided to shell out the $40 for the program... My "home dyno" came with an Isky Cams catalog in the 60's. It is a cardboard sliderule type and believe it or not I find it gives me closer estimates using wt & 1/4mi trap speed than I get with the online programs I've tried. The hp is at the crank. John O ------------------------------ From: "Clendening Chad" Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:30:06 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Super 60 cam I didn't think the discussion on the MOPAR super 60 cam wear was ever settled. I spoke with a performance company at the MOPAR nationals on this issue. I was told that this particular cam originally worked OK and the prototypes this person had were fine. Later production cams wore out. THis was due to a mismatch between the cam and the rocker. The hardness of the lifter was adjusted to match that of the CAM ( instead of making the cam harder). Now, the best thing to do is to use MOPAR rockers and get the cam from the company that makes them( $40 cheaper than MOPAR). The cams are lucky to reach 1000 miles. expect them to be replaced under warranty. The producer refuses to admit a hardning ( or other manufacturing) problem and claims valve spring tension and other motor parts are incorect. It is left up to you to determine what to do with the pile of metal left in the engine! Chad ------------------------------ From: Seth Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:07:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Adjusting Boost On Sat, 9 Aug 1997, Bibiana Lim wrote: > Hi Seth, > > Thanks for the warning! > > You wrote: > >Bibie- you could change the turbo, go to a cam with less overlap. But > >for about $800, you could get rid of the lag with a nitrous system. A > >very quick shot of 1-2 seconds at full throttle brfore the turbo spins up > >will give and instant 50 hp or so, and make it shut off as soon as the > > Wow...this is going PRO, man! But I just want to do a mod without too > much investment. > > >manifold pressure goes above atmospheric. Instant power and much faster > >turbo spool up. And in most cases, the nitrous in emissions legal, with > >a CARB exemption sticker. > > Yes I agree that going Nitro is one of the quickest way to make the "kick in the > pants" come quicker. But is it safe...I hear about some near misses. Maybe I'm > wrong. > > Thanks > > Bibie > > > Depends on what you mean by "safe" I was under the impression that you wanted the boost, or power to come in earlier. The A?R of the turbo can be changed, maybe a cam... The turbo motor should be able to cope with a 50 hp nitrous hit quite well.. if you use individual port foggers, and make sure that there is no nitrous under boost. Not even a little boost. Just make sure it quits as the pressure goes above atmospheric. I don't claim to be an expert, but someone I know has such a system on an old 280zx turbo. He has a larger, slower spooling turbo than stock. The nitrous helps, but he has the old style single fogger nitrous, and there is a delay in getting the nitrous into the engine. I goes from a intake pipe, thru the turbo, then into the intake tract, then the engine. So he has "nitrous lag". He wants to try a port injected style system. I can attest to the power of the car, even with this setup. Does the best burnouts I can recall. Seth ------------------------------ From: Seth Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 20:17:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: Motorola FI driver? On Thu, 7 Aug 1997, Denis L'Espirance wrote: > Hi all! >=20 > I am looking for a Motorola injector driver for my Volvo. I recall that > they make a driver chip for the signal to the injector. SUggestions? >=20 > Also, what is the cheapest Motorola MAP sensor I can GET! one that > covers 1.1 bars of boost let say...The MPX 4250AP is great but almost > impossible to obtain in single quantity. >=20 > =20 > Denis L'Esp=E9rance > Technical writer, Tandberg ASA (Norway) > St-Bruno de Montarville > Qu=E9bec, Canada > **************************************************************** * > * 83 244 GLT Turbo B21FT, M-46, 210K/km (quick sporty silver brick) * > * 83 244 GLT B23E, M-46, 213K/km (rapid luxo blue brick) * > * 79 244 GL B21F, BW-55, 284K/km (slow laster black brick) * > ***************************************************************** >=20 Denis-- Call allied electronics 800-433-5700. $25 minimum orderUS currency. Add a few trnsistors to the price for the=20 MPX 4250AP at ~ $22 US and you have a $25 order.=20 Seth ------------------------------ From: Simon Quested Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 15:34:11 +1200 Subject: Re: Home Dyno Hi John & All > My "home dyno" came with an Isky Cams catalog in the 60's. It is a > cardboard sliderule type and believe it or not I find it gives me > closer estimates using wt & 1/4mi trap speed than I get with the > online programs I've tried. The hp is at the crank. As I am 24 and a product of our national edcuation system I know what a slide rule is but as it dosn't have buttons or a screen I don't know how to use one ........ much to the disgust of our Senior Tech here .... ;-) Simon +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Simon Quested (E-mail questeds@xxx.nz) Computer Technician, Silicon Graphics & Windows NT Support Centre for Computing and Biometrics LINCOLN UNIVERSITY OF NEW ZEALAND Phone (64)(03) 3252811 Ext. 8087 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/default.htm +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ f u cn rd ths, u cn gt a gd jb n cmptr prgmmng +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ------------------------------ From: Joe Boucher Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 22:53:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Too good to let go by At 07:53 PM 8/9/97 -0700, you wrote: >William A Williams wrote: >> However the idea of >> injecting fuel during the power stroke to achieve a constant pressure >> combustion was tried around the turn of the century with some success by >> Dr. Rudolph Diesel. The results of his efforts can be seen around us >> today. If he had just been successful in burning powdered coal then there >> would never have been a fuel crisis past or future. >> Bill in Boulder ---- "Engineering as an Art Form" ---- > >Ah yes, but he didn't have the benefit of EFI. ;-) > > That's being worked on. I have a friend that watched a Cummin's vice president wlak uup to an idleing and put his hand on it because it wasn't making any noise and he didn't believe it was running. ------------------------------ From: Joe Boucher Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 23:10:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Disable VATS At 10:00 AM 8/8/97 -0700, you wrote: >>Date: Thu, 7 Aug 1997 13:48:43 -0400 >>From: David Goodhue >>Subject: How can I disable Vats? >> >>My friend just bought a totalled 92 Z28 60K miles 350, (for $300). >>The drivetrain was not hurt in the accident. The kid who he bought >>it off of, lost the keys to it (probally had to do with drinking and >>driving). My friend would like to part the car out. Before he pulls >>the engine he would like to video tape the motor running, but he doesn't >>know if their is an easy way to bypass the VATS. Any susgestions? >> >>Dave >>86 Conv. > >The cheapest way is get a 555 timer and clock it at a 50% duty cycle for >the PCM VATS terminal to ground. The following quote is from the description of how a person stuffed a '94 3800 into a Fiero: Pass Key theft deterrent must be by-passed. I had the ignition key and could therefore measure the resistance of the pellet. A 10 turn pot was matched to this and soldered to the inputs of the stock Pass Key module which will feed a 50 hz "ok" signal to the PCM. A more elegant solution of a 50 hz wave generator is suggested but mine works. Tom explaination is a bit above me. I know what a 555 chip is but I don't know how to do what he suggested. Could you get a variable resistor, hook a digital voltmeter to the output of the VATS and change the resitance with the potentiometer till you get an output from the VATS? That would give the resistance you need. A brute force method but it might work. Joe Boucher '81 TBI Suburban '70 RS/SS Camaro Bedford, TX ------------------------------ From: "Andrew Chao" Date: Mon, 11 Aug 97 05:18:34 UT Subject: fuel injection conversion Hey guys- I am not on the list but I definitely need some of your h_lp. I have a '77 Ford Bronco with a 302 V8 and recently I went to the junkyard and picked up a lower and upper intake manifold, wiring harness, all sensors and relays, computer, coil, and distributor off of a '86 Lincoln town car w/the MPI. Anyway, I was wondering if any of you guys have any experience w/this conversion. I want to convert my '77 302 V8 w/2 barrel carb to fuel injection. I am almost positive that the lower manifold of the Lincoln will bolt to my block but I am not sure if the distributor of the Lincoln will work on my engine. Do any of you guys have any experience w/this. I sure hope this works. Please RE: me direct since I am not on the list. I would greatly appreciate any information any of you could assist me with. Thanks. Tony Chao ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 23:16:40 -0700 Subject: Re: EPROM Compatibility Question Thanks Terry, But the 571000AD's program and check out on the programmer A-O-K. I have a dataman S4 that supports the chip directly (128kx8) but they just don't seem to work on the 332 board. I copied the EPROM that has the motorola CPU32Bug that was sent and it will not work. The speed is within range, so either the eproms are really out of spec, or they are just different. I really have no idea if the 571000's are the same. I got them at fry's, and they are about one step above the shack (as far as I am concerned) they were marked in the plastic pack as 27c010's but that may be BS! Sandy At 09:39 AM 8/10/97 -0700, you wrote: >Sandy wrote: >> >> HELP - I have a EPROM question, and don't have the data books. Here's the >> problem. I'm trying to get this 68332 Board up, and the EPROM's that I >> purchased are Toshiba TC571000AD's The board uses a 27C010A. Are these >> compatible. My programmer can program them just fine, but they don't seem >> to be working. They do check out as programed from the programmer, and the >> data in them looks good. >> >> Help! >> >> Sandy > >Try a verify of the device data against the programmer several different >ways. Use the device limits against the entire programmer ram. I suspect >that the programmer loads at 0000h and if you don't set the device [snip] ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V2 #267 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".