DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, 16 September 1997 Volume 02 : Number 321 In this issue: Re: A/F Meter readings Re: O2 meter schematics Re: fuel flow sensing Re: fuel flow sensing Re: fuel flow sensing Re: Holley ECM replacement Re: How to Build CFI. Re: fuel flow sensing Re: o2 sensors in Australia Re: How to Build CFI. Re: fuel flow sensing Re: fuel flow sensing D-jet injector disassembling efi components/airflow meters/eprom programmers Muscle Car Fuel Injection Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection New Member Saying Hello Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Re: fuel flow sensing Re: fuel flow sensing Re: Holley ECM replacement Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Re: Holley ECM replacement Re: New Member Saying Hello Re: ? for you guys RE: D-jet injector disassembling See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Frank F Parker Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:14:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: A/F Meter readings > > Drove the car again today. The A/F meter stopped functioning after > 15 min of 70mph. Used my multi meter at the Ox port and there was 0 > volts. Drove the car another 10 min and the gauge began functioning and > the Ox port was reading normally 0-.5 volts. > > Is it possible/likely that an open circuit can occur and be affected by > the heat? > > Should I be ordering a new O2 sensor? > Yes, buy a new sensor after checking the wire loom looks undamaged. Frank > ------------------------------ From: Tom Cloud Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 07:12:44 -0500 Subject: Re: O2 meter schematics >I'll try to add on my web page the schematics from my EGO ( air/fuel >mixture ) meter(!!!) . My web page provider it's not working today >(@xxx. >Alex >http://home.onestop.net/nalex > sure, let's see it ... Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: clsnyde@xxx.net (Clare Snyder) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 12:22:04 GMT Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing >On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:41:03 +1200, "Dean Flavell" > wrote: > >>Would not any car that has a fuel trip computer have to have a fuel flow >>meter of some kind, so wouldn't the best bet be a wrecker in you own >>town or country? > >Oh well, you caught me. I have a confession to make. I'm so old and >crusty that I've never owned an auto with a fuel trip computer, so by >the time I entered the thread, I didn't realize that's the sensor we >were talking about. I'd heard of said options, but never realized they >did an honestTaGod flow sensor to obtain the results. Anybody recall >roughly what the purported accuracy of such trip computers IS? > >Maybe some kind soul could help out this old fossil and suggest some >suitable "donor" car models/years and where the sensor would be found, >roughly (and please don't just say, "in the fuel line, you dummy", cause >I can figure THAT out, heh). > >My interest is in an eXperimental aviation application, for both carb'd >and FI engines. If these fuel trip meters only appeared in injected >cars, please let me know that also. Most appreciated. > >Garfield > I had add-on fuel mamagement computers on 2 of my old Toyotas, and installed several on FI'd vehicles as well. The carbed units used a flow sensor, the FI'd units had a little "computer" that measured and summed the injection pulses. Once calibrated, it was extremely accurate. The units were beauriful, and both were stolen one New Year's Eve when someone broke into my cars on the driveway. They were CompuCruise units, and I have a flowswnsor left - right here in my hand - brand new and never installed. What's it worth? I figure somewhere around $35.00 US will take it, make me an offer - it is likely about a pound in weight. ------------------------------ From: clsnyde@xxx.net (Clare Snyder) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 12:29:08 GMT Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing >Larry, > >On Sun, 14 Sep 1997, Lawrence S. Harris III wrote: > >> is done on a line labeled DOL (Data output link). The computer also has >> an input from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and can thus calculate MPG. > >Do you know how the Vehicle Speed Sensor works? I am currently working on >a system that uses magnets fixed onto the drive shaft, and a hall effect >transistor. The problem i have found is that the shaft tends to move >around quite a bit (in relation to the rest of the vehicle). As i have >mounted the hall effect device onto the underside of the car, it >sometimese cannot sense the magnet becaues the drive shaft is too far >away. I haven't had a second attempt yet (with longer magnets/stronger and >moving the hall effect device closer) but i was wondering if there is >some other way that i should maybe try. > >Thanks > >Jason > > Get the unit that fits on the speedo gear, and the speedo cable fastens to it. Common on many cars with standard mechanical speedos and cruise or engine management systems. If necessary, I can find out at least oneunit that may work - let me know what kind of car/tranny.> ------------------------------ From: Nass Jeff <"KOHLERNET/GENERATORS/NassJeff%Kohler Co."@xxx.COM> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:48:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing Assuming rear wheel drive, mount the magnet(s) on the tail shaft of the tranny and the sensor in the tail shaft housing. I believe the Chevy Impalas (now deceased) have a magnet in either the ring gear or pinion gear in the differential. The sensor is mounted in the differential housing. You can adapt this theory to front wheel drive hardware to avoid the undesirable effects of non-rotational drive shaft movement. Jeff --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Do you know how the Vehicle Speed Sensor works? I am currently working on a system that uses magnets fixed onto the drive shaft, and a hall effect transistor. The problem i have found is that the shaft tends to move around quite a bit (in relation to the rest of the vehicle). As i have mounted the hall effect device onto the underside of the car, it sometimese cannot sense the magnet becaues the drive shaft is too far away. I haven't had a second attempt yet (with longer magnets/stronger and moving the hall effect device closer) but i was wondering if there is some other way that i should maybe try. ------------------------------ From: Tom Cloud Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 08:27:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Holley ECM replacement ........ >> My incomplete memory remembers a reference in a Peterson Publishing car >> mag about a company that makes a harness to adapt the Holley throttle >> body to the GM ECM. But then you run into the limitation of the cam >> duration the stock ECM will run, even with a custom eprom. >> >> How wild a cam are you running? >> >> Joe Boucher >If you are a running GM map system I have a circuit that comps for >almost any cam combo. > >Steve what does it consist of, Steve ?? (maybe send me some specifics ??) Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: Tom Cloud Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:11:55 -0500 Subject: Re: How to Build CFI. > > >I have a dune buggy project in mind. I have alot of knowlegde in building >engines and race engines and i'm building a vw 1835 as i dont want to >overstress the motor or over heat it since its going to be in the mud. BUT i >am building i really really really nicely built "to the hilt" motor and i >wanted to do it as low buck as i can. now this is where you guys come in. I >wanted to know how do i build a 1 sensor CFI system. Ok i know it exist >because its going to cost me 1 damned thousand dollars. I know this. Its >adjustable from the inside of the car and only works w/ 1 sensor. Also i know >it's Throttle bodies look like the dual carbs you would normally buy....what >do you all think? I don't know what you said 8^) ..... but, the Holley 502 ProJection system is about as low as you can go .... uses only TPS, RPM and temp as sensors (and you could leave off temp if you wanted). An option is available to add EGO feedback -- which, I've found, is necessary as there's a lean condition when holding TPS constant (i.e. neither decel or accel) and dropping engine speed (RPM) -- e.g. when climbing a hill. A very lean condition results (same thing occurs when slowly opening up the accelerator -- lean until RPM comes up). Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: Tom Cloud Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:11:58 -0500 Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing >Larry, > >On Sun, 14 Sep 1997, Lawrence S. Harris III wrote: > >> is done on a line labeled DOL (Data output link). The computer also has >> an input from the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) and can thus calculate MPG. > >Do you know how the Vehicle Speed Sensor works? I am currently working on >a system that uses magnets fixed onto the drive shaft, and a hall effect >transistor. The problem i have found is that the shaft tends to move >around quite a bit (in relation to the rest of the vehicle). As i have >mounted the hall effect device onto the underside of the car, it >sometimese cannot sense the magnet becaues the drive shaft is too far >away. I haven't had a second attempt yet (with longer magnets/stronger and >moving the hall effect device closer) but i was wondering if there is >some other way that i should maybe try. > >Thanks > >Jason long, long ago, in a galaxy far away, Heathkit offered a mileage computer -- back in the days of carbs -- don't know how it worked, how well it worked, when it was offered ..... nothing else .... but it's a clue Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: Tom Cloud Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:11:56 -0500 Subject: Re: o2 sensors in Australia >>2) aftermarket. I haven't done *too* much looking in this department, >>only that i've found a couple of exhaust shops want 150 bucks for an >>unheated o2 senor, and about 250 for a heated one (i think). > >These prices are ridiculous. The best I've been able to do is: > >$A90 - single wire (unheated) >$A150 - three wire (heated) > >These are a 'generic' type (FuelMiser) via a friendly local auto parts >supplier, who gets all his stuff from Repco (well, these anyway). > >I've also looked into importing some from the US, but there is only a >marginal saving once you take the conversion factor and shipping into >account. > >Cheers > >Steve Lamb Steve, did you check out the site I gave you ?? Partlink@xxx.com Tom Cloud ------------------------------ From: swagaero Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 16:39:41 -0700 Subject: Re: How to Build CFI. MHR Racing wrote: > > I have a dune buggy project in mind. I have alot of knowlegde in building > engines and race engines and i'm building a vw 1835 as i dont want to > overstress the motor or over heat it since its going to be in the mud. BUT i > am building i really really really nicely built "to the hilt" motor and i > wanted to do it as low buck as i can. now this is where you guys come in. I > wanted to know how do i build a 1 sensor CFI system. Ok i know it exist > because its going to cost me 1 damned thousand dollars. I know this. Its > adjustable from the inside of the car and only works w/ 1 sensor. Also i know > it's Throttle bodies look like the dual carbs you would normally buy....what > do you all think? Got to my web site and take a look at what makes CB Performace system work I did the system for them Steve ------------------------------ From: "Dave J. Andruczyk" Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:34:56 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing > Do you know how the Vehicle Speed Sensor works? I am currently working on Some cars use the toothed wheel that the ABS system uses. Some cars ( the ones with ABS) use a toothed wheel mounted on the axle stubs right behind the brakes. A hall sensor picks up the pulses. > a system that uses magnets fixed onto the drive shaft, and a hall effect > transistor. The problem i have found is that the shaft tends to move > around quite a bit (in relation to the rest of the vehicle). As i have > mounted the hall effect device onto the underside of the car, it > sometimese cannot sense the magnet becaues the drive shaft is too far > away. I haven't had a second attempt yet (with longer magnets/stronger and > moving the hall effect device closer) but i was wondering if there is > some other way that i should maybe try. I tried a similar approach when trying to make a a digital speedo. I ended up epoxying the magnets really close to the transmission on the halfshaft. That way when thee suspension moves, the moevement by the tranny is rather minimal, and thus I could get a reasonably reliable signal. Dave ------------------------------ From: garfield@xxx.com (Garfield) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:19:46 GMT Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing On Mon, 15 Sep 1997 12:22:04 GMT, clsnyde@xxx.net (Clare Snyder) wrote: >They were CompuCruise units, and I have a >flowswnsor left - right here in my hand - brand new and never installed. >What's it worth? I figure somewhere around $35.00 US will take it, make = me >an offer - it is likely about a pound in weight. Hey Clare. Say us X-av guys sure get around, don't we. Heh. Done deal. I'll drop you a line privately to get your mailing address where I can send zee moolah. Garfield ------------------------------ From: lindberg peter Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:53:12 -0400 (EDT) Subject: D-jet injector disassembling My '71 Volvo has Bosch D-jetronic. I have a feeling that the injectors aren't atomizing nearly as well as they should be. I've tried the snake oil -- er, I mean injector cleaner w/ techron, and it doesn't seem to do the trick. Even when added to a nearly empty fuel tank for a more concentrated solution... I once took the injectors & fuel rail off and filled the rail with the cleaner, so that when reinstalled and run, the straight cleaner would be pushed thru the injectors at 30psi. I've been contemplating sending my injectors away for the compleat "blueprinting", balancing, servicing, etc, for $25 per injector. But I figure if they can clean my injectors effectively, I should be able to too. My question is how does one disassemble a D-jet injector? From the cutaway diagram in my Hanes manual, there seems to be a threaded portion near the top. Does the thing merely unscrew and come apart that way, or is it more complicated? Please CC response to plindb1@xxx.edu as I am subscribed to the digest. TIA, Peter Lindberg ------------------------------ From: Rich Mauruschat Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:20:02 +0100 Subject: efi components/airflow meters/eprom programmers EFI components and spares: For EFI components; injectors, injector spares, connectors, lambda sensors (non-heated =A336, heated =A366), temperature sensors etc. try Fuelparts UK: Paul Tomlinson is the main contact. The website is not very exciting but it is a point of contact and the product range is interesting. They also do carb. components, filters etc.= also. Airflow meter testing: A few postings recently concerning afm problems; beware when testing flap type afm's by measuring track resistance only, they usually operate on a ratiometric basis reading the wiper voltage relative to the 'top of track' voltage. As a result the absolute track resistance is not particularly important and quite a variation from one unit to another is possible. The track is actually a series of stepped resistors and on a RESISTANCE measurement will not appear to have a smooth transition across the flap travel. When connected up however, the wiper VOLTAGE will vary smoothly (indeed as the flap is slowly opened the resistance between the end of track and wiper can often be seen to alternately increase and decrease across the flap travel) - I have yet to get a convincing explanation for this - any comments?? Eprom programmer Yes DATAMAN S4 is a great tool, we have used them for a long time. If you want to emulate and change data on the fly then investigate the ORBIT 32 from Stag Programmers (ideal for ECU development). Neither of these devices are cheap (approx. =A3500 for S4)=20 Hope this is interesting Richard. ------------------------------ From: Paul Tholey Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:55:10 -0400 Subject: Muscle Car Fuel Injection I have subscribed to the efi listserv and have found little mention of muscle car fuel injection. I am trying to design fuel injection for a 1971 Duster. The engine is a 360. I am working on designing a cross ram injection using a custom made sheet metal intake manifold. I am in the beginning stages of this design. The Corvette cross fire injection was my inspiration for this. The small block chevy and mopar both have the same firing order so I was contemplating using a cross fire computer. I have found that most of these cross fire cars ran poorly. Does anyone know why? Should I gear my design away from a throttle body? I would like to. I am intimidated by most of the postings. If anyone is compassionate enough to lend some guidance I would love to return the favor. I am capable of creating any custom sheet metal style aluminum intake manifolds. ------------------------------ From: "Tony Bryant" Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 09:03:55 +1200 Subject: Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection > Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:55:10 -0400 > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > From: Paul Tholey > Subject: Muscle Car Fuel Injection > Reply-to: diy_efi@xxx.edu > I have subscribed to the efi listserv and have found little mention of > muscle car fuel injection. I am trying to design fuel injection for a 1971 > Duster. The engine is a 360. I am working on designing a cross ram > injection using a custom made sheet metal intake manifold. > I am in the beginning stages of this design. The Corvette cross > fire injection was my inspiration for this. The small block chevy and mopar > both have the same firing order so I was contemplating using a cross fire > computer. I have found that most of these cross fire cars ran poorly. Does > anyone know why? Should I gear my design away from a throttle body? I > would like to. > I am intimidated by most of the postings. If anyone is > compassionate enough to lend some guidance I would love to return the favor. > I am capable of creating any custom sheet metal style aluminum intake manifolds. > > For a no welding all-aluminium solution: I built a plennum chamber by building a frame from 20mm x 20mm x 3mm Alum. angle (L), I mitred the ends of the frame and used sheet alum. bolted to the frame (tapped holes in the frame) to both hold the frame together, and provide the walls. Whatever else you do you need to make sure it wont rip apart under 25"+ of vaccum. Internal bracing with 3/8" dowels is one idea that worked for me. It still flexs quite a bit. ------------------------------ From: Tony Parker Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:45:58 -0400 Subject: New Member Saying Hello I am extremely interested in getting full information on On-Board Car Computers (Also Known As) ECM, ECU, PCM, SBCD, EFI, FI. This is not to be confused with Laptops or other CPU devices strapped to the dashboard but not connected to the Car Fuel/Ignition/Exhaust/Transmission system and used only for business or entertainment! I have been a Computer Tech & Consultant for 18 years in a neighborhood ("Hell's Kitchen") in New York City that is dominated by car dealerships, repair-shops, and parts suppliers. The projects described on both the DIY_EFI and EFI332 project decribed on the websites look fascinating and I can't wait to settle on something that I can start with. Can anyone suggest a good "beginner" project for a "newbie" like myself to get his teeth into? Some of my automotive neighbors have suggested that I investigate the area of service, repair, trouble-shooting, diagnosing, customizing and programming, car on-board computers. In beginning this quest, I would be extremely grateful if anyone could e-mail any hints, tips, leads, that would e-mail me any company names, phone-numbers, e-mail addresses, Other related NewsGroups or URLS for info on the following: 1.)On-Board Car Computer OEM Manufacturers. 2.)On-Board Car Computer OEM Spare & Rplacement Parts Distributors & Depots. 3.)On-Board Car Computer Service & Repair Centers. 4.)On-Board Car Computer Service & Repair Manuals. 5.)On-Board Car Computer Service and Repair Training Centers. 6.)On-Board Car Computer Used & Refurb Centers. Please respond by direct e-mail to tgparker@xxx.net or via this NewsGroup Thanks or Call Tony Parker at 212-582-9120 or Send via Snail Mail to: Tony Parker 548 West 53rd Street New York, NY 10019 Voice: 212-582-9120 Fax: 212-582-9122 ------------------------------ From: "Gary Derian" Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:50:27 -0400 Subject: Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection The Corvettes ran poorly due to vacuum leaks and a very large wetted manifold surface. Large cool wetted surfaces accumulate fuel on their walls at low vacuum (opening the throttle). This fuel then vaporizes at high vacuum (closing the throttle) and causes a large hydrocarbon spike in the exhaust. That is why the crossfire Corvette and Camaro was available only with an automatic transmission. Also, fuel mixture distribution tends to be poor. Use port injection and design your intake manifold to flow dry air. - -----Original Message----- From: Paul Tholey To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 5:18 PM Subject: Muscle Car Fuel Injection >I have subscribed to the efi listserv and have found little mention of >muscle car fuel injection. I am trying to design fuel injection for a 1971 >Duster. The engine is a 360. I am working on designing a cross ram >injection using a custom made sheet metal intake manifold. > I am in the beginning stages of this design. The Corvette cross >fire injection was my inspiration for this. The small block chevy and mopar >both have the same firing order so I was contemplating using a cross fire >computer. I have found that most of these cross fire cars ran poorly. Does >anyone know why? Should I gear my design away from a throttle body? I >would like to. > I am intimidated by most of the postings. If anyone is >compassionate enough to lend some guidance I would love to return the favor. >I am capable of creating any custom sheet metal style aluminum intake manifolds. > ------------------------------ From: michaels@xxx.com (Michael Skolones) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:02:56 -0700 Subject: Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection - --IMA.Boundary.879563478 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: cc:Mail note part Check out Accel's web site. There is a fuel injection catalog you can download in Adobe Acrobat (.pdf) format, and if you need a reader you can get one there as well. If you are short on patience but have a some cash to play with you might try using Accel's parts; I haven't tried them myself, but they have interesting stuff. All of their fuel injection components are geared towards muscle cars. I'm thinking of using them (someday) on a 331 Hemi. They sell a bushing kit that you can use to have a stock 360-4bbl manifold altered to multi-port fuel injection configuration. Essentially this involves drilling holes down near the intake valves, welding or epoxying in the bushings, then grinding off the excess bushing from the inside of the runners. The bushings accept standard Bosch-type fuel injectors, I believe. Now for the throttle body, Accel makes a big body that is a replacement for the GM/Ford bodies used on their newer FI V-8's; it will attach to a 4-bbl manifold via a Holley bolt pattern (may require an adapter, I can't remember, but there is a way). Otherwise you can get a GM or Ford throttle body out of a junkyard and adapt it somehow. For the control system, Accel has several configurations of an ECM, depending on whether you want it to work independently of the ignition or not. Computer-controlled ignition is another big ball of wax, so you might want to go with Chrysler electronic ignition and an independent fuel injection computer. I've heard that the Accel ECM will run you around $1000. The Accel computer can be programmed using a PC via serial cable, so I've been told. These systems are based on manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensors, rather than the mass air flow (MAF) sensors found on typical Bosch and similar systems. Supposedly MAP systems have poorer low-speed driveability than the MAF systems, but do better at higher-end performance. (Just hearsay on my part, ask around). For closed-loop control you will also need to fit an oxygen sensor onto the exhaust manifold or header. The choice of what type of O2 sensor (heated or non-heated, etc) may be dictated by the Accel computer design and wiring harness. From what I've read you'll need a "heated" type O2 sensor if you are using headers, for they do not retain enough heat to keep the sensor warm enough to operate properly. All in all expect to spend a few thousand to get a working FI motor. On the other hand, if you have some money to play with check out the fuel injection systems used on the Magnum V-8 motors used on the neat-o new Dodge trucks. Mike Skolones ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Author: diy_efi@xxx.edu at Internet Date: 9/15/97 3:55 PM I have subscribed to the efi listserv and have found little mention of muscle car fuel injection. I am trying to design fuel injection for a 1971 Duster. The engine is a 360. I am working on designing a cross ram injection using a custom made sheet metal intake manifold. I am in the beginning stages of this design. The Corvette cross fire injection was my inspiration for this. The small block chevy and mopar both have the same firing order so I was contemplating using a cross fire computer. I have found that most of these cross fire cars ran poorly. Does anyone know why? Should I gear my design away from a throttle body? I would like to. I am intimidated by most of the postings. If anyone is compassionate enough to lend some guidance I would love to return the favor. I am capable of creating any custom sheet metal style aluminum intake manifolds. - --IMA.Boundary.879563478 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; name="RFC822 message headers" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Description: cc:Mail note part Content-Disposition: inline; filename="RFC822 message headers" Received: from coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu (128.146.90.150) by mailserver.mail1.com with SMTP (IMA Internet Exchange 2.1 Enterprise) id 0009AA67; Mon, 15 Sep 97 14:31:07 - -0700 Received: by coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu (940816.SGI.8.6.9/940406.SGI) for diy_efi-outgoing id TAA21371; Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:55:24 GMT Received: from r02n02.cac.psu.edu by coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu via ESMTP (940816.SGI.8.6.9/940406.SGI) for id PAA21366; Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:55:21 - -0400 Received: from pft101.rh.psu.edu (PFT101.rh.psu.edu [128.118.125.178]) by r02n02.cac.psu.edu (8.7.6/8.6.12) with SMTP id PAA30650 for ; Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:55:10 -0400 Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 15:55:10 -0400 Message-Id: <199709151955.PAA30650@xxx.edu> X-Sender: pft101@xxx.edu X-Mailer: Windows Eudora Light Version 1.5.2 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" To: diy_efi@xxx.edu From: Paul Tholey Subject: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Sender: owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu Precedence: bulk Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.edu - --IMA.Boundary.879563478-- ------------------------------ From: clsnyde@xxx.net (Clare Snyder) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 00:04:37 GMT Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing > > > >Assuming rear wheel drive, mount the magnet(s) on the tail shaft of the >tranny and the sensor in the tail shaft housing. I believe the Chevy >Impalas (now deceased) have a magnet in either the ring gear or pinion gear >in the differential. The sensor is mounted in the differential housing. > You can adapt this theory to front wheel drive hardware to avoid the >undesirable effects of non-rotational drive shaft movement. > >Jeff That sensor is likely the rear ABS sensor - can be used as a speed sensor if ABS not enabled. Can also add an extra sensor on front ABS sensor, if you are real handy. > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > >Do you know how the Vehicle Speed Sensor works? I am currently working on >a system that uses magnets fixed onto the drive shaft, and a hall effect >transistor. The problem i have found is that the shaft tends to move >around quite a bit (in relation to the rest of the vehicle). As i have >mounted the hall effect device onto the underside of the car, it >sometimese cannot sense the magnet becaues the drive shaft is too far >away. I haven't had a second attempt yet (with longer magnets/stronger and >moving the hall effect device closer) but i was wondering if there is >some other way that i should maybe try. > > > > > ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:36:17 -0700 Subject: Re: fuel flow sensing Clare Snyder wrote: > > >On Sun, 14 Sep 1997 07:29:48 +1000, Justin Albury > >wrote: > > > >>have you seen the setup on vk & vl 5.0 non efi commodores??? the fuel > >>flow sensor screws in infront of the carbie......still very $$$$$ new > >>but you should find a wecked calis with one on it ..... > > > >Eh, speak up man, that mumbling's entirely too faint for those dying to > >get some true but inexpensive flow measuring scheme going...so, could > >you say in more detail and slowly for the older folks, just what this > >"vk & vl non efi commodores" is?? Please. > > > >Garfield > > > It's Ausi-Speak. A Commodore is a Holden, otherwize known as an Aussi GM - > totally out of reach of us northern hemisphere guys. I thought a commodore was a out of date computer. - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:36:45 -0700 Subject: Re: Holley ECM replacement Jennifer Rose wrote: > > Hey Steve > > Would you share circuit with us. Will being doing tpi project on an older > vette this winter > > Thanks Vance For a minor fee I will share it with you. Steve - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:35:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Muscle Car Fuel Injection Paul Tholey wrote: > > I have subscribed to the efi listserv and have found little mention of > muscle car fuel injection. I am trying to design fuel injection for a 1971 > Duster. The engine is a 360. I am working on designing a cross ram > injection using a custom made sheet metal intake manifold. > I am in the beginning stages of this design. The Corvette cross > fire injection was my inspiration for this. The small block chevy and mopar > both have the same firing order so I was contemplating using a cross fire > computer. I have found that most of these cross fire cars ran poorly. Does > anyone know why? Should I gear my design away from a throttle body? I > would like to. > I am intimidated by most of the postings. If anyone is > compassionate enough to lend some guidance I would love to return the favor. > I am capable of creating any custom sheet metal style aluminum intake manifolds. Multiport is better then any electronic carb. - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:35:55 -0700 Subject: Re: Holley ECM replacement Tom Cloud wrote: > > ........ > > >> My incomplete memory remembers a reference in a Peterson Publishing car > >> mag about a company that makes a harness to adapt the Holley throttle > >> body to the GM ECM. But then you run into the limitation of the cam > >> duration the stock ECM will run, even with a custom eprom. > >> > >> How wild a cam are you running? > >> > >> Joe Boucher > > >If you are a running GM map system I have a circuit that comps for > >almost any cam combo. > > > >Steve > > what does it consist of, Steve ?? (maybe send me some specifics ??) > > Tom Cloud Think opamp - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:35:31 -0700 Subject: Re: New Member Saying Hello Tony Parker wrote: > > I am extremely interested in getting full information on On-Board Car > Computers (Also Known As) ECM, ECU, PCM, SBCD, EFI, FI. > > This is not to be confused with Laptops or other CPU devices strapped to > the dashboard but not connected to the Car > Fuel/Ignition/Exhaust/Transmission system and used only for business or > entertainment! > > I have been a Computer Tech & Consultant for 18 years in a neighborhood > ("Hell's Kitchen") in New York City that is dominated by car > dealerships, repair-shops, and parts suppliers. The projects described > on both the DIY_EFI and EFI332 project decribed on the websites look > fascinating and I can't wait to settle on something that I can start > with. > > Can anyone suggest a good "beginner" project for a "newbie" like myself > to get his teeth into? > > Some of my automotive neighbors have suggested that I investigate the > area of service, repair, trouble-shooting, diagnosing, customizing and > programming, car on-board computers. > > In beginning this quest, I would be extremely grateful if anyone could > e-mail any hints, tips, leads, that would e-mail me any company names, > phone-numbers, e-mail addresses, Other related NewsGroups or URLS for > info on the following: > > 1.)On-Board Car Computer OEM Manufacturers. > > 2.)On-Board Car Computer OEM Spare & Rplacement Parts Distributors & > Depots. > > 3.)On-Board Car Computer Service & Repair Centers. > > 4.)On-Board Car Computer Service & Repair Manuals. > > 5.)On-Board Car Computer Service and Repair Training Centers. > > 6.)On-Board Car Computer Used & Refurb Centers. > > Please respond by direct e-mail to tgparker@xxx.net or via this > NewsGroup > > Thanks > > or Call Tony Parker at 212-582-9120 > or Send via Snail Mail to: > > Tony Parker > 548 West 53rd Street > New York, NY 10019 > Voice: 212-582-9120 > Fax: 212-582-9122 I thinks he want instant knowledge - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: swagaero <"Type in Your username here"@xxx.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:36:06 -0700 Subject: Re: ? for you guys Seth wrote: > > On Sat, 13 Sep 1997, Dave Stinar wrote: > > > Ok, here it goes, Ive been on the list for way to long. I just havent had > > the time really consider doing a project, but a few things have come up in > > which I problaby could shave off a lot of junkyard time and money. > > > > My wifes cavaler just blew a rod and the car is not worth fixing (thats why > > we now have a 1997 geo metro) and my lebaron is problaby not far behind. > > the computers and the electrics are all in good order its just the > > engines/bodys that are shot. > > > > Now just a couple of months ago my rx7 had the thermostat froze closed and > > the needel on the temp peged itself at the top, now the rear rotor is gone > > (I think) no mater what I need to take the engine out and disasemble it. > > What my thought was could I in any way that does not require me to go and > > do to much reprograming on eather of thoses systems from the cavaler or > > lebaron alow me to retrofit them to my rx-7's wankel engine. > > > > I have considered getting a efi system from a junked rx-7 but the only rx-7 > > around here are the old 78-85 models, non have efi units on them. > > > > The cavaler has a tbi system and the lebaron has a multi port fi system. I > > can see good and bad in using both systems. > > > > cavaler= 4cyl-tbi-2.0L > > lebaron=4cyl-mpfi-2.2L > > rx-7=2 rotor/6cyl-carb-1.1L > > > > Any advice I can get would be great, thanx in advance. > > dave s > > > > > > '70 vw bug > > '76 cj5 jeep > > '78 handa 550-4 > > '82 rx7 gsl (my baby) > > '85 chevy cavaler > > '85 lebaron turbo > > 97 geo metro > > > > The 1985 rx-7 GSL-SE has efi, and it isn't bad, but it's for a 13B, not a > 12A. > > Should work, though, if a bit rich > > Seth Allen Take a look at my web site at the Mazda EFI conversion. Let me know what you think. Steve - -- ----|------||------|---- --|------[]------|-- 0/ \0 www.flash.net/~swagaero ------------------------------ From: Preferred Customer Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:43:41 -0700 Subject: RE: D-jet injector disassembling - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCC1FE.EEB62660 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Peter, my toyota injectors were crimpted on. i un crimpted then with a screwdriver no problem. but i could not put it back together probly doesent help? Duane - ---------- From: lindberg peter[SMTP:plindb1@xxx.edu] Sent: Monday, September 15, 1997 6:53 AM To: DIY_EFI@xxx.edu Subject: D-jet injector disassembling I've been contemplating sending my injectors away for the compleat "blueprinting", balancing, servicing, etc, for $25 per injector. But I figure if they can clean my injectors effectively, I should be able to too. My question is how does one disassemble a D-jet injector? From the cutaway diagram in my Hanes manual, there seems to be a threaded portion near the top. Does the thing merely unscrew and come apart that way, or is it more complicated? Please CC response to plindb1@xxx.edu as I am subscribed to the digest. 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