DIY_EFI Digest Saturday, 2 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 001 In this issue: Power ground [none] Re: Voltage regulator Re: Chemical warfare Re: Nology) Re: Power ground Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: 350 Pontiac engine Random thoughts Re: Has anyone looked at this Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: Has anyone looked at this Re: Has anyone looked at this Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) RE: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Re: Random thoughts Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) S19 Files Re: S19 Files See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Geoff Richards" Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:43:00 +1100 Subject: Power ground Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and 'powerground'? TIA Geoff ------------------------------ From: John S Gwynne Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 06:10:01 -0500 Subject: [none] Subject: [admin] List services (automated monthly post) This message is post monthly as a reminder of the available list services. For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@xxx. To post: Send to "[list name]@xxx.edu" To subscribe: Send to Majordomo@xxx.edu subscribe [list name] [your email address *only* if different than your "From" address] To unsubscribe: Send to Majordomo@xxx.edu unsubscribe [list name] [your *registered* email address if different than your "From" address] The archive to each mailing list is available through the following sources: 1) WWW. http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ 2) ftp. ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ 3) Majordomo. Send "index [list name]" to Majordomo@xxx. You will find a file "archive_date_index" whose contents show the period covered by each of the archive files "archive_num_*". Digest mode is available for each mailing list. Send "lists" to Majordomo for a listing a mailing lists served. To switch to the digest mode, unsubscribe from the regular list and then subscribe to the digest version (i.e., diy_efi-digest). WWW site (for diy_efi and efi332): http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ now mirrored at http://tech.buffalostate.edu/efi Please send information to be added to this posting to jsg@xxx. John ------------------------------ From: BossOz@xxx.com Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 09:37:25 EST Subject: Re: Voltage regulator In a message dated 12/31/98 6:16:23 PM Central Standard Time, cosmic.ray@xxx.com writes: << egulator that will supply 12-16v (@ up to 40a >> If all you want is 16v the cars alternator can supply that easily But a performance pump would be the one to go ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 10:02:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Chemical warfare >Um... Mr Breitwieser? Are you the type who likes to put old CDs in the >microwave for ten seconds or so? Did you ever make Estes rockets when Ray, simple answer : Yes, when I was younger :) Now, I just detonate engines ;) Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport, CT 06606 Homebrew Automotive Website: http://www.xephic.dynip.com/ 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HMMWV 1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid) 1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car - - ------------------------------ From: cosmic.ray@xxx.com (Raymond C Drouillard) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 12:27:25 -0500 Subject: Re: Nology) On 01 Jan 99 21:13:41 +1200 "Tom Parker" writes: >Bill the arcstarter wrote: > >[killing speed camera photos] > >>Oh - that sounds nice. I had thought about a constant IR lamp blaring >>on the plate to fog the film. Possibly via infrared leds/diode >>modules... Most b/w film is sensitive to IR or so I'm told... > >This might work, but I would think you would need a rather powerful source. >In order to completely burn out the film you need a huge amount of light, I >have got usable images from film overexposed by 3 or 4 stops. > >I imagine a flash aimed at the number plate would be most effective. If the >flash is pointing at the camera, and is near the plate, you might have some >luck, but the camera will be doing its best to keep the light from the flash >in the area of the film where the flash is, not where the plate is. You would >only get light that is scattered inside the camera going from the flash to the >image of the number plate. > >At least, this is how I see it. > >The other problem with slave flash units is that they are very sensitive. If >they see any kind of very fast rising light source, they go off. >Photographers have problems with slaves triggering off strobes in shop windows >far away from where they are photographing... > >The local police claimed that the idea would not work. They didn't give any >convincing reasons for it. They went on about how fast the shutter is, but the >flash is much much faster... > >-- >Tom Parker - tparker@xxx.nz > - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/ > I would point the flash at my plate to avoid being accused of blinding other drivers. Also, since my plate is blue with white letters, I would put a blue filter on the flash to reduce the contrast between the letters and the background. Another option would be to project an image on the plate with the flash. If it is lit with blue light that has a mottled "texture", it would be extremely difficult to read. You wouldn't need to use enough brute power to wash out the film, that way. Just obscure the image. Ray ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 13:55:19 +0000 Subject: Re: Power ground EE designers like to separate all grounds digital, analog and power. This can avoid transient voltage spikes on one ground line affecting another ground line, or any voltage differences on ground lines. There are some design schemes to reconnect the grounds such as the Starr, found in alot of A/D reports alex > Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and > 'powerground'? > TIA > Geoff ------------------------------ From: "Ronald T. Webb" Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 10:15:47 -0900 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used? Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text, light on a dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate expletive, instead of the license number ;-} Mos wrote: > An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the > number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things > like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be > fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave > flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches > the camera? > The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the > number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light > travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to > activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could > work... > Just a thought.. > ------------------------------ From: Sandy Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 11:46:05 -0800 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) You would sell a lot in Scottsdale Arizona ;-). I was there on business, and they had the Photo Radar BS things all over the place. I think they got me in my rental car, just havent seen the ticket yet. Really pissed me of the more I thought about the whole thing, next thing you know I'll have a camera on my front door making sure my socks match and then a printer at the end of the walkway to pick up my fine. Sandy At 10:15 AM 12/31/96 -0900, you wrote: >I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The >opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the >camera >lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used? > >Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text, light >on a >dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate >expletive, >instead of the license number ;-} > >Mos wrote: > >> An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the >> number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things >> like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be >> fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave >> flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches >> the camera? >> The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the >> number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light >> travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to >> activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could >> work... >> Just a thought.. >> ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 15:05:33 -0500 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) - -----Original Message----- From: Sandy To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 2:50 PM Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Everthing was fine till ya mentioned socks, now Grumpy, Doc, Sleepy, and Dopey are all PO'd. I hate when that happens, last time weapons cleaning took place shortly there after. Happy Hew Year's from CSH, HQ Bruce, and the Staff >You would sell a lot in Scottsdale Arizona ;-). I was there on business, >and they had the Photo Radar BS things all over the place. I think they got >me in my rental car, just havent seen the ticket yet. Really pissed me of >the more I thought about the whole thing, next thing you know I'll have a >camera on my front door making sure my socks match and then a printer at >the end of the walkway to pick up my fine. > >Sandy > >At 10:15 AM 12/31/96 -0900, you wrote: >>I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The >>opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the >>camera >>lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed used? >> >>Maybe, instead of going completely opaque, we can display large text, light >>on a >>dark background... the camera could be induced to record some appropriate >>expletive, >>instead of the license number ;-} >> >>Mos wrote: >> >>> An option I have been exploring was to use an LCD panel infront of the >>> number plate which turns opaque when it detects a flash. I've seen things >>> like that used on welding goggles, but I'm wondering whether it would be >>> fast enough to activate in the case of a flash? How fast are the slave >>> flash units? Would they activate before the light from the flash reaches >>> the camera? >>> The LCD would in reality need to activate before the light reached the >>> number plate. If the sensor is mounted on the bumper, considering light >>> travels at around 3e+8m/s it doesn't leave much time for the LCD to >>> activate, but since it's been done with welding goggles I guess it could >>> work... >>> Just a thought.. >>> > ------------------------------ From: ECMnut@xxx.com Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 15:30:40 EST Subject: Re: 350 Pontiac engine If it has a Pontiac 350 V8, Summit Racing (Akron, Ohio, USA) lists headers with .049" mandrel bent tubes, blah-blah-blah.. for US$79.50 Summit Part# SUM-G9020 Chevy V8 is # SUM-G9005 Do you know which V8 you have? Plugs below manifolds=Chev Plugs above manifolds=Pontiac HTH Mike V > I am tunning a Pontiac Firebird with a 350 Gm engine and am seeking > information on exhaust headers. Anybody recomend a type or supplier for > these please, bearing in mind i have relocated the oil filter. > ------------------------------ From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:47:59 GMT Subject: Random thoughts Water injection and corrosion and other such concerns. You do understand that the combustion of the hydrogen component of fuel with oxygen results in water and that that's typically about two gallons of water for every gallon of gasoline burned. Adding water is kinda like peeing in a river - not gonna change much ( as far as corrosion goes ) Acetone. Octane about 120 or so. Primary use as an anti-phase separation agent at about 10%. Extreme affinity with water. Blends with alcohol, water, gasoline, nitromethane and most other fluids. Auto ignition temp from about that of methanol alcohol to over 1000F depending on who and how its tested. Stoic about 9.5 to 1, heat energy higher that of ethanol, but lower that gasoline. Used since moby dick was a minnow to blend various fuel components that are subject to phase separation together. Low flash point in comparison to Nitromethane and Alcohol is helpful in igniting such mixtures easier. Model fuel. Typically a blend of Lubricant ( Castor Oil or synthetic castor oil), methanol and nitromethane. Nitro percentage ranges from zero to 60 %. Price varies on percentage. Model boat fuel - 60% nitro runs about 35$ US per gallon. Synthetic castor oil preferred by the modelers. Note - adding acetone to this would make it blendable in a water injection system. Nitromethane and gasoline. Up to 10% nitromethane can be blended with gasoline by preblending the nitromethane with equal parts nitro and acetone. Nitropropane or Nitrobenzene preferred as they blend much better and can be used at higher ratios. Higher amount of nitro really should be introduced as separate BI-FUEL system if you intend to keep burning gasoline. H2O2 - Hydrogen peroxide. 8% max over the counter. 33% max industrial. Higher % require special handling included full body suits. An unpleasant side effect of neat H2O2 is that it will virtually instantaneously dissolve human flesh to the bone. Be careful of any joy juice you make that involves H2O2 - Hydrazine for example, explodes ( not burns!) on contact with H2O2. Many other nitrogen based compounds have greatly accelerated burn characteristics around H2O2. Note - H2O2 is an early combustion product and some sources seem to suggest that the addition of some amount of these products such as formaldehyde or H2O2 will spike the combustion and result in faster combustion during the induction period. One of the reasons hydrazine results in big power boosts in very small percentages is that it adds free hydrogen and large amounts of energy in the early induction period. This greatly assists in the tearing apart of the HC molecule and making its energy available faster. Mono propellants - be very wary. Any fuel either a blend of chemicals, or a true chemical monopropellent ( Mono - latin for one - one chemical as a propellent - not a blend mix or whatever ), is subject to flash back. I.E. once ignited, it needs no outside source of oxygen or ignition to keep burning - - you don't want it to start traveling back to the storage tank do you. Ammonia Nitrate - commercially available as fertilizer. Totally dissolves in water. Minerals drop out. You may seriously consider using the resultant stew as water injection. Solves the problem of not being blendable with petroleum based fluids nicely. Just some catching up thoughts - was out of the PDRC for a couple of weeks. The Luddites were RIGHT!! Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore ------------------------------ From: ECMnut@xxx.com Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:47:12 EST Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this In a message dated 12/31/98 4:54:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, pfenske@xxx.ca writes: > To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8 > This allows the code to bypass the scaling I'm always getting in over my head.. Uh, what is this scaling you write about?? Please tell me more.. Thanks, Mike V ------------------------------ From: "Ronald T. Webb" Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 12:58:24 -0900 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) - --------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera flash, just drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw in a 10 second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal. Now we have : LCD hood - $250 RADAR detector : $100 555 delay timer : $.50 555 design Remember - Never build it if you can buy it... - --------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit  

Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera flash, just drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw in a 10 second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal.

Now we have :
                        LCD hood - $250
                        RADAR detector : $100
                        555 delay timer    : $.50     555 design

Remember - Never build it if you can buy it...
 
  - --------------02BC8155D03A4C2BCB9EEA49-- ------------------------------ From: "Peter Fenske" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 14:43:18 -0800 Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this APPY NEUVE YAR ( My head still hurts but ) Gm ecms(ECU) read time in ticks between ref pulses. The time between ref pulses for a 4 cyl is twice as long as for a V8. So for a 4 cyl we scale by ($80/256) for a V6 by ($C0/256) This gives up the same ticks/rpm we would get for a V8 application So we can use the same code.. Tell Bruce to make sure the M0 M1 decode is right for the calpak used. :peter ECMnut@xxx.com on 01/01/99 01:47:12 PM Please respond to diy_efi@xxx.edu To: diy_efi@xxx.edu cc: (bcc: Peter Fenske/BCIT) Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this In a message dated 12/31/98 4:54:07 PM Eastern Standard Time, pfenske@xxx.ca writes: > To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8 > This allows the code to bypass the scaling I'm always getting in over my head.. Uh, what is this scaling you write about?? Please tell me more.. Thanks, Mike V ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 18:19:18 -0500 Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this - -----Original Message----- From: Peter Fenske To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 6:02 PM Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this OK, what's the M0 M1 decode, I was working with a memcal from a 89 F-Body 1227165 ecm. My head hurts, just wish it was from the bubbly. Bruce M Stewart failed to show for X-Mas, New Years Eve, and New Year's Day she just might find herself off the CSH. HQ auto invite list.............. > > >APPY NEUVE YAR ( My head still hurts but ) >Gm ecms(ECU) read time in ticks between ref pulses. The time between >ref pulses for a 4 cyl is twice as long as for a V8. >So for a 4 cyl we scale by ($80/256) for a V6 by ($C0/256) >This gives up the same ticks/rpm we would get for a V8 application >So we can use the same code.. >Tell Bruce to make sure the M0 M1 decode is right for the >calpak used. >:peter > > > Subject: Re: Has anyone looked at this >pfenske@xxx.ca writes: >> To set the cy select insert $00 not FF for V8 >> This allows the code to bypass the scaling > I'm always getting in over my head.. >Uh, what is this scaling you write about?? >Please tell me more.. >Thanks, >Mike V ------------------------------ From: "Tom Parker" Date: 02 Jan 99 13:45:01 +1200 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Ronald T. Webb wrote: >I like your idea of an LCD screen similar to the expensive welding hoods. The >opaquing action would not have to outrun the light, only go dark before the >camera lens had collected sufficient light. Anybody know the shutter speed >used? There are two sources of light used to expose the film. First is the flash from the speed camera, the second is the ambient light hanging around. The shutter speed is likely to be around 1/125 to 1/250 of a second, certainly no faster than 1/500. Camera flahes have very short durations. I don't know how quickly the light builds up from the flash, but any trigger circuit would need to detect the flash building up and get the LCD opaque before enough light had arived. The effect of the ambient light would be interesting, since this light is always there, and the flash is triggered somewhere in the middle of the exposure. The shutter opens fully, then the flash fires, and the shutter closes. Depending on the power of the flash and the distance from the camera to the car, ambient light would probably have no real effect on the image. - -- Tom Parker - tparker@xxx.nz - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/ ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:49:06 -0500 Subject: RE: oops... (was Re: Nology) Do you have a source for this LCD Hood? This is starting to get interesting! Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: Ronald T. Webb [SMTP:rwebb@xxx.net] > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 1996 4:58 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) > >   > > Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera > flash, just drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red > LED, and throw in a 10 second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to > normal. > > Now we have : >                         LCD hood - $250 >                         RADAR detector : $100 >                         555 delay timer    : $.50     555 design > > > Remember - Never build it if you can buy it... >   >   ------------------------------ From: "Ronald T. Webb" Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 17:57:59 -0900 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) Those hoods are available at any welding supply house. Jemison Richard wrote: > Do you have a source for this LCD Hood? This is starting to get > interesting! ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:40:49 -0700 Subject: Re: Random thoughts >Water injection and corrosion and other such concerns. > >Ammonia Nitrate - commercially available as fertilizer. Totally dissolves in >water. Minerals drop out. You may seriously consider using the resultant >stew as water injection. Solves the problem of not being blendable with >petroleum based fluids nicely. > ERRHM-- "Minerals drop out"--?? You mean something precipitates out when you dissolve the prell in water?? Any idea what?? Or what is usual?? Got any data handy on the effect of % by weight NH4-NO3 dissolved in H2O on freexing temperature of the H2O?? Sounds to me like this might well out-do alky as a practical antifreeze for an H2O injection system!!! Might even be available in, say, Baja!!---- :-) (Not that one should expect to need antifreeze there, but you know how it is!) Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:49:24 -0700 Subject: Re: oops... (was Re: Nology) >Oh yea - one more thing - you don't need to trigger the LCD from a camera >flash, just >drive it from a RADAR detector. Pick the signal off the red LED, and throw >in a 10 >second delay before the LCD is allowed to return to normal. > Great thinkin' as to how to turn on any such countermeasures!! Mebbe a mottled pattern high intensity light, filtered to match a plate color and aimed at the plate would work better (and cheaper) than an LED screen. (Plus it would, technically, not be "obscuring" the plate.) Make it a thirty second delay, and add a light for the rear plate just to be sure! Nest question--what do we use to trigger (turn on) the same lights in the presence of one of the roadside smog sniffers (which I think are infra-red based.) Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: "Ross Myers" Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 17:25:10 +1100 Subject: S19 Files I've noticed some people have posted up ROM Dumps as Motorola S19 files. Does anybody have or know where to get an S19 - Bin converter?. Regards Ross Myers ------------------------------ From: Orin Eman Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 00:57:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: S19 Files > I've noticed some people have posted up ROM Dumps as Motorola S19 files. > Does anybody have or know where to get an S19 - Bin converter?. http://www.mcu.motsps.com/freeweb/pub/ibm/s2bin.exe Orin. ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #1 *************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".