DIY_EFI Digest Saturday, 2 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 003 In this issue: Re: Voltage regulator Re: Power ground Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Re: Voltage regulator 92 Corvette LT-1 RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Re: [Fwd: EFI software] Re: Water Injection Thread Re: Water Injection Thread Re: Water Injection Thread Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Re: Voltage regulator Re: Voltage regulator Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Re: Power ground Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Re: Voltage regulator Re: Water Injection Thread fuel pumps Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Re: Voltage regulator Re: Voltage regulator Re: Water Injection Thread See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 16:05:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator David A. Cooley wrote: > > At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote: > >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that > >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.??? > > > > That would be almost as bad as overvoltage... Under voltage can kill them > as well. > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. > =========================================================== Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall. Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper" type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems. ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 16:16:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Power ground Clarence Wood wrote: > > I have a 1982 280ZX turbo with the Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection. I have been told that after modifying timing, etc. the battery ground should be disconnected for a period of time in order to reset the ECM. I have also been told that both, negative and positive, terminals should be disconnected. The time interval has been anywhere from 5 min to overnight. Does the power ground, as described below, explain why both terminals should be disconnected to reset the ECM?? Or am I reading to m > Most (japanese) ECUs have several power supplies - at least one of which is full time, non switched, to maintain non-volatile memory (it's volatile with power disconnected) On a Toyota, for instance, there was both an ECU 1 and an ECU 2 fuse. Removing the right one would reset the codes on the ECU in about 15 seconds - unless you had the brake pedal depressed, in which case enough voltage filtered through to maintain the memory. Removing both terminals will definitely ensure the memory is dumped, but will also, in all likelihood, loose all settings on your radio etc. Remember, CMOS memory is basically a whole slew of capacitors which hold a voltage to indicate o logic one, and no voltage for logic zero (unless you are running negative logic, where it is reversed) Virtually vo "power" or current flow is required - so ANY voltage applied to the circuit can prevent resetting. > At 12:14 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote: > >Geoff Richards wrote: > >> > >> Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and > >> 'powerground'? > >> TIA > >> Geoff > >I'll give it a crack. > >In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a > >"chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can > >have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and > >charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads. > >For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across > >the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is > >provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as > >through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop. > >Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal. > >Hope this helps understand it. > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Walter Sherwin" Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 16:17:08 -0800 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Just a thought..............How about running two parallel in-tank pumps & socks, at full voltage, all of the time, and installing two bypass regulators in the return side of the fuel recirculating loop so as to avoid non-linear pressure response? This could ensure ample flow, adequate control, and less electronic gadgetry? Both Bosch and Walbro have some hefty, in-tank, submersible pumps that in tandem can feed well beyond 1000 Hp! - -----Original Message----- From: Greg Hermann To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 11:34 AM Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters >>In a message dated 1/2/99 11:38:18 AM Eastern Standard Time, bearbvd@xxx.net >>writes: >> >>> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that >>> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.??? >> >>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump >>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which >>a second in-tank pump is switched on. The kit includes a 30amp >>relay and wire harness, etc I believe one such kitt is available from ATR > >Who and where is ATR?? > >>Some users of this setup report a 2-5 psi jump in pressure when the >>extra fuel volume, from a second Walbro 308 pump, > >See the comment below, but this jump is simply demonstrating what I am >talking about below in terms of accuracy of pressure regulation. The port >in the regulator used is not big enough, plus it needs time to react. > >Who is Walbro, where are they.?? > >Basically, I am looking for sources for good quality, large volume, but >really don't have to be high pressure, submersible fuel pumps. >Controlled voltage to a pump is still more elegant than staging, since >varying voltage to a DC motor varies its speed (and therefore the volume >output) infinitely. Hence the desire for variable speed pump drive. Tom is >RIGHT! Running a big pump at lower voltage/speed most of the time will do >the job, and increase pump life IMPRESSIVELY! >If one wants to get seriously complicated, it is very feasible to vary the >speed of one pump, and then stage in a second, constant speed pump for big >loads. (The first, variable speed, pump slows back down when the second >pump first comes on, then speeds back up as load increases further.) > > hits the FP regulator . > >It is way easier (and much more efficient and accurate) to regulate >pressure precisely if flow through the pressure regulator is fairly >constant. > >> I only wish to own/operate such a thirsty beast in my lifetime. 8~) > >The output would certainly be nice, but maybe with about 10% less thirst >would be even nicer!! :-) > >Regards, Greg >> Mike V > > ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 15:20:15 -0600 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator In case you want to salvage a unit off of a junker: 1982 Nissan Turbo units have a Fuel Pump Control Modulator that "monitors engine conditions (engine rpm, cylinder head temp, injector operating pulse width, etc.) and controls the voltage supplied to the fuel pump." The pumps draws battery voltage when: engine cranking, above 3,200 rpm, injector pulse width above 3.5 m sec, cylinder head temp of 100 deg C (212 deg F), battery voltage below 9.8V: other than those conditions it draws 9.8V. The unit can be found just above the ECCS control unit on drivers side, inside car. At 07:43 PM 12/31/98 +0200, you wrote: >Tom Sharpe wrote: >> >> How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that >> capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.??? >> >> Regards Tom >> >Already been done by Paxton. >"The Brain Pump Computer automatically reduces your high output fuel >pump's flow during street operation for improved efficiency. With the >flip of a switch, it creates a 2.4 voltage drop, reducing fuel flow and >allowing the pump to run cooler during street operation enhancing its >longlevity. Flip the switch back, and the pump returns to its normal >high volume flow." >Could be trigered by TPS or MAP. >Summit Racing part nu. pax-8002048 $119.95 > > ------------------------------ From: ChvyRs92@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 17:36:31 EST Subject: 92 Corvette LT-1 I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:50:32 -0500 Subject: RE: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters I'll check and see At 01:54 PM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote: >Any contact info for Walbro ? > >---------- >From: David A. Cooley[SMTP:n5xmt@xxx.net] >Sent: January 2, 1999 12:40 PM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters > >At 11:52 AM 1/2/99 -0700, you wrote: > >>>Some Buick & Syphoon turbo blokes use a *staged* pump >>>arrangement that allows you to pre-set the boost level at which >>>a second in-tank pump is switched on. The kit includes a 30amp >>>relay and wire harness, etc I believe one such kitt is available from ATR >> >>Who and where is ATR?? >> > >Applied Technologies and Research in Fairplay, SC > > >> >>Who is Walbro, where are they.?? >> > >Walbro is a pump manufacturer... they make a lot of the AC/Delco pumps and >the aftermarket replacements. > > >=========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. >=========================================================== > > > > =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: Steve Ravet Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 17:10:52 -0600 Subject: Re: [Fwd: EFI software] ECMnut@xxx.com wrote: > > Hi Steve, > sorry to bother you without the answer you seek... > Is this injector flowbench article online ??? > I'd love to see it.. > Thanks, > Mike V > Chardon, Ohio Yes, the flowbench article is on the diy_efi WWW page, under the members and projects link. It's 20 jpeg images that were scanned from the magazine. If anyone can OCR those to text files please step forward. - --steve - -- Steve Ravet sravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, INC www.arm.com ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:21:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread >Go for the stage II. You want to be able to accelerate from 100 to 150 like a >CanAm car. Most transmissions are limited by torque in low gear (& second) on Naaaah, I won't be pounding on it that much, since the vehicle weight is not enough to support the power level, unless there is enough downforce. I won't be at that point on the street hopefully, if I am, something is seriously wrong (or my radar detector is working ). Seriously, I am gravely concerned about the power/weight ratio, and might add extra weight in the form of making the sprung weight (i.e. roll cage) much stronger, thicker, better triangulated. >racer) will hook up), it will last for ever. if you are worried, just use a >marginal clutch and replace it every year or so. (Or just keep your foot out of >it in low). I don't mind replacing clutches, if that saves the transmission. >about the Porsche more than the Audi as the Porsche is designed for high RPM HP >and the Audi more for street torque. What is the Torque output of the Not sure what the specs of either are as rated from the Factory. Kennedy Engineering, who makes various adaptors for the Porsche & VW Bug transaxles to other engines (chevy 350 for example) rate the Porsche unit (G50-50) to 700 HP. I for one think that's in 5th gear, at 200 MPH. I can't see 1st gear taking that. Like you said, the Porsche's make their power at the mid/top ends, not at 1500 RPM for the most part. The Audi 016 transaxle which is the one I have (or is it 013, I forget), is rated to 400 HP, but again, its at the higher RPMs. A friend of mine has a 5 cyl turbo motor that was dyno'd at 450 HP (at the flywheel), and has shredded 1st gear when popping the clutch at higher RPMs. Of course, this car is not designed for what he's using it for (german made 4-door sleeper) >Porsche?) Look at the diameter of the output shafts (pinion shafts) and >bearings, pick the larger. Good advice, thank you :) >One more thing about Turbo motors. If your motor sounds funny and you pull the >pan off an there are a dozen pieces of piston skirt laying in the bottom of the >pan, it's detonation. Been there, done that, won that T-shirt. Yes, been there done that. However I didn't get a T-Shirt Tom, who gave you yours? Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport, CT 06606 Homebrew Automotive Website: http://www.xephic.dynip.com/ 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HMMWV 1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid) 1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car - - ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:22:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread >Do you have any pictures of your monster engine, I would love to hear more >details.Very impressing acomplishment . I have them, unfortunately they are on a laptop that I dropped. The drive is okay, I just need to transplant it into something that works, since the display/systemboard is garbage :) The homemade manifold does look pretty cool. Picture dinosour rib cage with injectors all over it :) Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport, CT 06606 Homebrew Automotive Website: http://www.xephic.dynip.com/ 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HMMWV 1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid) 1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car - - ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:25:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread >Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup? Perhaps the Audi setup >would work. They split the torque between the front and rear wheels >using a Zexel Torsen type differential. That way, all four wheels will >grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the rear >when the front end starts to get light. Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard parts. I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive fabrication, one not. The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated subaru manual tranny (AWD), and go from there. The second would be to tap the ring gear in a FWD Eldorado transmission (early 80's), also mounted upside down. Neither appealed to me out of effort, weight, and putting the engine behind the rear axle. a 50/50 weight distribution really excites me :) >What does Lambroghini use for its Diablo? Could one of those transfer >cases be obtained for less than a mint? Does Porsche have any AWD >models? Not sure about the Lambo, but I believe Porsche does have a AWD vehicle, but if I do remember correctly, its rear-mounted engine wise. Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport, CT 06606 Homebrew Automotive Website: http://www.xephic.dynip.com/ 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HMMWV 1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid) 1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab 2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car - - ------------------------------ From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 18:35:32 EST Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters Hi Folks, I have used an RPM activated switch from Mallory(I am sure MSD's would work too) to turn on the Boost a Pump from Kenne Bell or Whipple.....You can insert a resistor (has built in 2 way weatherpack)to control how much you want the boost a pump to increase the voltage...no resistor = 21.5 volts 2k resistor = 17 volts.....also can use the rpm switch activated from the MAF meter instead so at a certain airflow the pump is squeezed on, then use another to shut a solenoid in the return line if even more fuel is required at a higher MAF.....just some thoughts.... - -Carl Summers ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 16:41:54 -0700 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator >At 01:55 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote: > >> >>Hence, the proper answer of PWM. > >Exactly! >The pump still sees full voltage, it just has it for a limited time! C'mon--the PWM switch LOWERS the AVERAGE voltage by switching teh FULL voltage on and off rapidly. As I said, you want good smoothing of the output, cuz the rapid pulsing IS what will dissassemble the windings! Regards, Greg > >=========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. >=========================================================== ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 16:41:56 -0700 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator >David A. Cooley wrote: >> >> At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote: >> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that >> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.??? >> > >> >> That would be almost as bad as overvoltage... Under voltage can kill them >> as well. >> =========================================================== >> David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net >> Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 >> I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. >> =========================================================== >Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for >various reasons. An AC motor will make full torque below its rated speed if the voltage/frequency ratio given to it is the same as at its rated speed. At any given frequency and speed, the voltage which an AC motor needs to produce a given fraction of its rated torque is the same proportion of its rated voltage as the torque load is of the motor's rated torque. Feeding the motor more than the required voltage when it is loaded to less than its rated torque (as is commonly done) results in an efficiency loss due to an increase in the IR loss in the windings. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor >will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it >does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall. The current/load/speed/torque characteristics for a shunt wound DC motor were outlined in an earlier post. A series wound DC motor's characteristic is a hyperbolic curve: very high torque at low speed, very low torque at very high speed. As long as your particular torque/speed requirement is not above this curve, it will do the job. If you overload it with too much torque, it will slow down, or even stall, trying to meet the load. Stalling IS NOT detrimental to a series wound motor so long as it has enough cooling to dissipate the heat produced by the IR loss in its windings by the applied current (which, of course, is a function of the applied voltage). Said cooling can be produced by any combination of the following, even if the motor is stalled: adequate frame size, submersion in a liquid, or a separately driven cooling fan. Naturally, a cooling fan driven by the motor shaft will not give any cooling if the motor is stalled. Consider the following: diesel-electric railroad locomotives use DC traction motors. they have switchable windings, but in starting to move a train from rest, the traction motors are put in a series wound configuration. And they are most certainly asked to produce a VERY high torque while stalled, and then while running at a VERY low speed!! (At higher speeds, locomotive motors are switched through various combinations of series/shunt and into full shunt at high speeds.) The moral of this story is that ADEQUATE HEAT DISSIPATION of IR losses in the windings and eddy current losses in the core is the key to making any electric motor live a long, happy life. (As long as you do not act like a racer, and spin it fast enough to make its windings fly apart!!) 8-) >Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak >voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type >motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque. To claim that there is not enough inductance in the motor windings to smooth out the highs and lows of the PWM voltage notches is living in dreamland or a sign of having ingested too much egg-nog!! Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 18:44:25 EST Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 In a message dated 1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, ChvyRs92@xxx.com writes: << Subj: 92 Corvette LT-1 Date: 1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time From: ChvyRs92@xxx.com Sender: owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu Reply-to: diy_efi@xxx.edu To: DIY_EFI@xxx.edu I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Hello, In my opinion I think it would be best to get the GM service manuals for both vehicles so you have an accurate schematic for both wiring harness'....then start cutting.......If you have a prom reader/burner I'm sure one of us on this list could give you the address info to eliminate your VATS....otherwise you might want to spend a couple of bucks and send it to one of us willing to do some custom work on the chip for you.....Hypertech,JET and others can do this also..........hth's - -Carl Summers ------------------------------ From: ECMnut@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 18:44:59 EST Subject: Re: Voltage regulator, now fuel system boosters In a message dated 1/2/99 3:59:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, mpiccioni@xxx.net writes: > Any know of a source for these pumps? > Ron Gregory, who sometimes lurks this list, runs group purchase activities for the Syclone/Typhoon list. The 255 lph pump was under $100 US (with install kit) when I bought one through him in May. His email is rgregory@xxx.org 255 lph is supposed to be enough for 700hp. Never been there..Works great with my 350hp V6.. HTH Mike V ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 15:47:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Power ground On Sat, 2 Jan 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote: > > Anyone have time to explain the difference between 'ground' and > > 'powerground'? > > TIA > > Geoff > I'll give it a crack. > In a DC power system on a car, the negative(usually) terminal uses a > "chassis ground" for power "return".This is your "power ground". It can > have a voltage drop of up to .1 volt across it for accessory and > charging loads, and up to one volt for starter loads. > For signal circuits, such as sensors, sometimes the .1 volt drop across > the frame ground could cause calibration errors, so a "signal ground" is > provided. Sometimes the signal can even "float" above chassis ground, as > through a protection diode with a, say, .6 volt forward voltage drop. > Can't use chassis ground return for such a signal. > Hope this helps understand it. > So in other words, high amperage and low amperage devices should have seperate ground paths to the battery?? ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 17:53:51 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 On Sat, 2 Jan 1999 EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/2/99 2:47:23 PM Pacific Standard Time, ChvyRs92@xxx.com > writes: > > Hello, > In my opinion I think it would be best to get the GM service manuals for > both vehicles so you have an accurate schematic for both wiring > harness'....then start cutting.......If you have a prom reader/burner I'm > sure one of us on this list could give you the address info to eliminate your > VATS....otherwise you might want to spend a couple of bucks and send it to one > of us willing to do some custom work on the chip for you.....Hypertech,JET and > others can do this also..........hth's > -Carl Summers > I am working on reverse engineering the addresses for a 93 Z28 LT1 A4 which I believe uses the same computer and probably almost the same prom for both 92/93. If you have a prom burner you might send me a copy and I will see how different it is. Mine is an A4 so if yours came from a non-A4 there might be some differences there. Roger ------------------------------ From: Steve Ravet Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:07:52 -0600 Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 Pete Fenske can tell you about the VATS. I faced a similar wiring problem when I put a V8 in my S-10 Blazer (replaced the 2.8 which is probably exactly what you did also). Anyway, if you have the ECM and engine harness then you are 90% there. The only things that pass through the bulkhead connector are sensors that drive dash gauges, A/C controls, wiper controls, fused and unfused power and ground, fuel pump power, and some other things like that. If you look at the pinout of the bulkhead connectors for both the engine and the car, you'll see that they are mostly the same wires. You just need to connect them appropriately. Here's what I did: I wanted to keep the old engine intact as much as possible, so I went to a junkyard and bought a bulkhead connector that matched the one in my truck. If you go buy one get one that is close to your model including year and options. That way you'll get all the right wires in all the right colors. Cut the wires as long as possible. Or you can cut up your bulkhead connector if you don't care about it. Cut off the LT1 bulkhead connector, you won't be using it. Cut it also so that the wires are as long as possible. Wire by wire, connect matching wires from the LT1 bulkhead to the Camaro bulkhead. Having the schematics for both helps trememdously. At first, twist and tape them, using bright green or red tape. Then start the car to see if it runs OK. If it seems OK, use good crimp on connectors to permanently connect the wires, and solder them after crimping. The bright tape helps locating the connections. Put the wires back into the black plastic loom that they were in, and cut the wires to a sensible length so they run in a nice bundle. I know this isn't very specific, but every swap like this is unique. write me back if you have more questions. - --steve ChvyRs92@xxx.com wrote: > > I have a 92 Camaro that had a v-6 in it, I recently purchased a 92 Corvette > LT-1 motor with both computers (the ECM, and the CCM ). My big problem is > figuring out how to wire the new motor. I know of a few aftermarket companies > that sell wiring harnesses, but they are pretty expensive and I don't know if > I really need them because I have the stock Corvette harness. I am also > curious if I need to disable the VATS or can I wire it up to the module > currently in my 92 Camaro? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. - -- Steve Ravet sravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, INC www.arm.com ------------------------------ From: KD6JDJ@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:03:30 EST Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 An engine swap can be a rewiring career. I bought a book from Steve Smith Autosports that impresses me. It is written by a couple of very experienced guys who try to educate you on how to do --what you are doing , with installing an injected motor into your Camero. My book is out on loan. Steve is in Orange or Santa Ana California. Jerry ------------------------------ From: AL8001@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:15:45 EST Subject: Re: Voltage regulator In a message dated 99-01-02 18:49:42 EST, bearbvd@xxx.net writes: >The current/load/speed/torque characteristics for a shunt wound DC motor >were outlined in an earlier post. > >A series wound DC motor's characteristic is a hyperbolic curve: very high >torque at low speed, very low torque at very high speed. It's good to know shunt/ series motor theory. Though it's full effect is lost on the original app discussed ( running a OEM fuel pump at a < or > voltage) Most if not all OEM intank or external pumps are permanent magnet style. The Holley Blue or Red pump may have field coils as well as some other aftermarket pumps. As for running a pump at reduced voltage. The ~85 Merkur XR4Ti 2.3 Turbo ( same engine as a SVO Mustang) uses a resistor wire simillar to a ignition resistor. The ~ 86 Reanult Alliance ( ala American Motors) used a regular ingition ballast resistor in series with the pump. I seem to remember some make of car using a resistor to reduce pump noise as low throttle openings. Then bypassing the resistor near WOT to insure adequate fuel flow. I think late model Chryslers use a variable (most likely PWM ) fuel pump on their single line EFI systems. They have eliminated the return line on some engines. Harold ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 19:17:50 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread At 06:25 PM 1/2/99 -0500, you wrote: >>Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup? Perhaps the Audi setup >>would work. They split the torque between the front and rear wheels >>using a Zexel Torsen type differential. That way, all four wheels will >>grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the rear >>when the front end starts to get light. > >Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or >fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear >axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard parts. > >I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive >fabrication, one not. > >The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated subaru >manual tranny (AWD), and go from there. > Not sure if the Porsche 930 is AWD, but it's transaxle can handle a VERY modified Chevy 350... Guy in Los Angeles had a Porsche 911 with an honest 450 HP 350 V8 and a 930 transaxle... Went for a ride once that scared even me! =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 19:29:23 -0500 Subject: fuel pumps All my info on burning out fuel pumps came from listening to the guys that race GN's... Guess I should have listened to my electronics theory instead! There is something to be said for running a larger guage wire from the battery to a relay and the relay to the pump, switching the relay from the old pump supply wire... The GN list did a test a while back... Voltage at the pump while running (13.6V at the battery) was only 11 volts or so with the factory wiring... adding the "hot wire" as they called it bumped voltage to 13.2 or so and the volume of the pump increased considerably. The GN web page has some charts one of the guys made relating voltage to fuel volume on several different pumps. http://www.gnttype.org/gnttype/www and look in Tech Info Later, Dave =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:40:12 -0500 Subject: Re: 92 Corvette LT-1 If the original poster writes me, I'll send a 555 circuit for trial. Include our address in text, please. Bruce ------------------------------ From: KD6JDJ@xxx.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 19:39:38 EST Subject: Re: Voltage regulator This bit of information MAY be of interest to thoes of us who want to homebrew a DC motor control by reducing its voltage input. Put forward biased diodes in series with the motor to lower its received voltage. Each diode will lower the voltage to the motor by about 3/4 volts. The locked shaft (or stall) torque is greatly improved when diodes are used in place of resistors. Jerry ------------------------------ From: John Andrianakis Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 00:26:33 +0200 Subject: Re: Voltage regulator Clarence L.Snyder wrote: > > David A. Cooley wrote: > > > > At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote: > > >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that > > >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.??? > > > > > > > That would be almost as bad as overvoltage... Under voltage can kill them > > as well. > > =========================================================== > > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. > > =========================================================== > Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for > various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor > will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it > does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall. > Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak > voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type > motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper" > type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as > accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if > you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems. The Carrol supecharging company has a unit capable of this.Its called a Superpumper.They say " Electronicaly regulates fuel pump pressure in response to manifold pressure. Replaces FMU on supercharged Mustangs, Camaros and other vehicles for more power. Adjust your fuel curve from inside the cockpit. Can actually increse the fuel pump's output by 20% more." Sounds interesting for forced induction applications but has the same rerstrictions as FMU(rising rate fuel pressure regulators-usually 6:1 ratio of fuel press. increse over manifold press. increase when manifold press. positive.). Boost limit is around 10 psi. At least I wouldnt like driving injectors at over 90psi for any length of time. For anyone interested their phone is +12018351660. ------------------------------ From: cosmic.ray@xxx.com (Raymond C Drouillard) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 20:39:43 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread On Sat, 02 Jan 1999 18:25:33 -0500 Frederic Breitwieser writes: >>Have you ever considered going with an AWD setup? Perhaps the Audi setup >>would work. They split the torque between the front and rear wheels >>using a Zexel Torsen type differential. That way, all four wheels will >>grab, but the front will not tend to spin out and rob power from the rear >>when the front end starts to get light. > >Nope, can't say that I have. I spent a lot of time trying to "fangle" or >fabricate such a system, and unless I mounted the engine behind the rear >axle, aka VW Bug, I didn't see a way of doing it with OEM/Junkyard parts. > >I did however come up with two solutions - one require extensive >fabrication, one not. > >The first would be to go rear-engine, and use a 180 degree rotated subaru >manual tranny (AWD), and go from there. > >The second would be to tap the ring gear in a FWD Eldorado transmission >(early 80's), also mounted upside down. Neither appealed to me out of >effort, weight, and putting the engine behind the rear axle. a 50/50 weight >distribution really excites me :) > >>What does Lambroghini use for its Diablo? Could one of those transfer >>cases be obtained for less than a mint? Does Porsche have any AWD >>models? > >Not sure about the Lambo, but I believe Porsche does have a AWD vehicle, >but if I do remember correctly, its rear-mounted engine wise. > > >Frederic Breitwieser >Bridgeport, CT 06606 > >Homebrew Automotive Website: >http://www.xephic.dynip.com/ > >1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental >1989 HMMWV >1973 Lincoln Continental (460cid) >1975 Dodge D200 3/4 ton Club Cab >2000 Buick-Powered Mid-Engined Sports Car Without knowing the details of your vehicle, I can't be sure what would fit. I was thinking along the lines of a standard front engine/tranny/t-case assembly mounted in the middle of the vehicle backwards. This would leave you with the task of dealing with an offset rear driveshaft, but that won't cause much trouble if you going with four-wheel independant suspension. Ray Drouillard ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. 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