DIY_EFI Digest             Monday, 4 January 1999       Volume 04 : Number 006

In this issue:

	RE: Voltage regulator
	RE: EFI on a Dodge 318
	Re: TurboS
	Re: Water Injection Thread
	Re: Water Injection Thread
	Re: Water Injection Thread
	Injector Duty Monitor
	Re: Injector Duty Monitor

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@xxx.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:10:21 -0700
Subject: RE: Voltage regulator

Industrial speed controller are available off the shelf that have an analog 
input to control output speed. If anyone is interested I could get the 
part/model #'s, we use them at work to control a 24Vdc blower motor but 
they work just fine @xxx.

- ----------
From: 	Clarence L.Snyder[SMTP:clare.snyder.on.ca@xxx.net]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 2:05 PM
To: 	diy_efi@xxx.edu
Subject: 	Re: Voltage regulator

David A. Cooley wrote:
>
> At 04:55 AM 1/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
> >How about using a big pump and cutting the voltage when all that
> >capacity is not required? Will the pump last longer, etc.???
> >
>
> That would be almost as bad as overvoltage...  Under voltage can kill 
them
> as well.
> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068
>        I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be 
approximated.
> ===========================================================
Actually, no. An AC motor is definitely sensitive to low voltage, for
various reasons. A DC motor does NOT suffer this way. A 24 volt motor
will run on 12 volts virtually forever, as long as the load placed on it
does not cause it to overload and overheat, or most dangerous, stall.
Using PWM control is better yet, as it does NOT reduce the peak
voltage/torque at all - it just modulates it. PWM control on a DC type
motor reduces speed without APPRECIABLY reducing torque.This "chopper"
type control, with feedback, could be used to control fuel pressure as
accurately as the current vacuum modulated spring type regulators - if
you can also control "bypass" to avoid vapour problems.



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------------------------------

From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@xxx.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:46:39 -0700
Subject: RE: EFI on a Dodge 318

Try Liberty Gear just outside Detroit for A833 parts, Joe carries parts for just about any 4 spd. 

- ----------
From: 	Bill the arcstarter[SMTP:arcstarter@xxx.com]
Sent: 	January 2, 1999 7:35 PM
To: 	diy_efi@xxx.com
Subject: 	Re: EFI on a Dodge 318

Frederic Breitwieser wrote:

>>Sounds like an A-833 trans.  Ever had one apart?  Mine needs 
>>synchros... 
>
>Nope, just had the top cover off and peered inside, and can visually 
>see the bent forks.  its that bad.  but, it shifts, and hopefully its
>repairable without too much effort.  If the forks/syncro's are not
>available, which they should be considering how many years this 
>tranny was available, I might go syncro-less.  Though it is a truck, 
>not a race car.

Any chance you just need forks?  The forks can be replaced w/o pulling 
the trans apart!

>I've found that to be with Chryslers in general.  I've found ZERO 
>dodge trucks in the five or six junkyards that I frequent - and on a 
>trip to Raleigh in the beginning of the month I found a few and 
>scavanaged parts I needed - like the brake cables for the parking 
>brake.

Yea, same here.  I got my bellhousing from Binghamton, NY and I live in 
Ohio.  The yards around here had ZERO and the best they could do was get 
one via locator for $250!  Robbery!  I ended up paying $60 for the one 
from NY.  I consider myself lucky at that price.

Apparently there are yards in the New England area with loads of 
moparts...

- -Bill

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com


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------------------------------

From: ECMnut@xxx.com
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:33:31 EST
Subject: Re: TurboS

In a message dated 1/3/99 9:51:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
edwards@xxx.net writes:

<< 
 Any one know where to find the Z18 turbo, or the head manifolds, and turbo
 or the whole engine? >>
Yep... are you near Cleveland, Ohio, USA?
Have friend that sells used import engines.. 
Usually has the Nissan turbo stuff in stock..
What year is it??
Mike

------------------------------

From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@xxx.net>
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:39:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread

A couple thoughts:

Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.

Intercoolers are great for cooling compressed intake air resulting in higher
mass flow.  Water injection is great for its anti-detonation qualities.  Use
both!

A heavy flywheel absorbs torque when the car is accelerating, especially in
the lower gears.  This reduces the stress in the transmission.  It also
smooths the torque which also helps.  But don't dump the clutch, here the
flywheel weight hurts the trans.  I think a soft clutch is a great way to
save transmissions.

180 degree headers on a V-6?  Wouldn't routing each bank into a turbo (3
into 1) result in 120 deg and every other pulse into each turbo?  Same for
intake.

AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as good
on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?

Gary Derian <gderian@xxx.net>

------------------------------

From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann)
Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:52:43 -0700
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread

>A couple thoughts:
>
>Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
>If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
>the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
>lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
>breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
>
>Intercoolers are great for cooling compressed intake air resulting in higher
>mass flow.  Water injection is great for its anti-detonation qualities.  Use
>both!
>
>A heavy flywheel absorbs torque when the car is accelerating, especially in
>the lower gears.  This reduces the stress in the transmission.  It also
>smooths the torque which also helps.  But don't dump the clutch, here the
>flywheel weight hurts the trans.  I think a soft clutch is a great way to
>save transmissions.
>
>180 degree headers on a V-6?  Wouldn't routing each bank into a turbo (3
>into 1) result in 120 deg and every other pulse into each turbo?  Same for
>intake.
>
>AWD is really great for low traction conditions and year-round driving.
>Rear wheel drive with a mid engine and sticky tires should be nearly as good
>on dry pavement with way less complexity.  How and where do you drive?
>
>Gary Derian <gderian@xxx.net>

All true, in theory, but what I said about using a light flywheel and crank
stands, especially if you are using sticky tires, and especially for
racing. Most tranny failures are caused by impact loading, which happens
when flywheel inertia hits the gears against good traction on the other end
of things if the driver is the least bit careless with the clutch.

A soft clutch can keep you from finishing--and would therefore be a poor
choice, at least in my estimation. Plus, a lightweight flywheel  and crank
means a MUCH quicker car, which is what racing is all about!

If you doubt the bit about inertia loading being the thing which will break
a driveline, try driving a semi with a lowboy trailer with a piece of heavy
equipment on board sometime--with a GCVW in the 100K range.
A Cummins 855, and even more emphatically a KT-6 or a Cat 3406 could never
be accused of being low rotating inertia engines, there are obvious gobs of
traction available in this sort of a case, and it is as easy as sneezing to
shuck teeth off of ring gears or shear a driveline on this kind of a rig!

To the point that most competent drivers of such rigs only touch the clutch
when starting out from rest, and never touch the throttle when touching the
clutch! It is just way too easy to get real expensive repair bills any
other way!!

Regards, Greg

------------------------------

From: Aaron Willis <darkmonahue@xxx.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:04:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread

- --------------50B958DAB5410CD9DA92E805
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Gary Derian wrote:

> A couple thoughts:
>
> Transmissions only see  torque.  Power ratings are not technically correct.
> If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and calculate
> the torque they really mean.  The only effect power has is to heat up the
> lube.  An oil cooler can fix that problem.  Usually its the output side that
> breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
>
>

Just a note: considering the torque curve of your engine might not be a bad idea
when selecting a transmission.  When BMC (or whoever they were at that point)
converted the old (!) B-series engine for diesel use, they began breaking
transmissions due to the high cyclic torque output of the engine - in other
words, the torque was powerful enough at low RPM to break things because it was
applied in a few strong, slow, individual pulses, not in many weaker pulses as a
gasoline engine would to produce the same torque output at a higher RPM.

Just my two cents

Aaron

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML>
&nbsp;
<P>Gary Derian wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>A couple thoughts:
<P>Transmissions only see&nbsp; torque.&nbsp; Power ratings are not technically
correct.
<BR>If someone is rating a trans for power, find out the rpm range and
calculate
<BR>the torque they really mean.&nbsp; The only effect power has is to
heat up the
<BR>lube.&nbsp; An oil cooler can fix that problem.&nbsp; Usually its the
output side that
<BR>breaks when in 1st gear due to the torque multiplication.
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
Just a note: considering the torque curve of your engine might not be a
bad idea when selecting a transmission.&nbsp; When BMC (or whoever they
were at that point) converted the old (!) B-series engine for diesel use,
they began breaking transmissions due to the high <U>cyclic</U> torque
output of the engine - in other words, the torque was powerful enough at
low RPM to break things because it was applied in a few strong, slow, individual
pulses, not in many weaker pulses as a gasoline engine would to produce
the same torque output at a higher RPM.
<P>Just my two cents
<P>Aaron</HTML>

- --------------50B958DAB5410CD9DA92E805--

------------------------------

From: "Khoo Teck-Khoon" <tkkhoo@xxx.com>
Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:38:32 PST
Subject: Injector Duty Monitor

I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am 
interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the 
air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with 
electronics, but I've seen similar products. Therefore, I hope that 
anyone of you super geniuses can help me. In Malaysia, I couldn't find 
such a product. And to import it in would cost me an arm and leg due to 
the import duties. Thank you.

Regards
tkkhoo@xxx.com

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

From: Stuart Bunning <stuart@xxx.au>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 19:08:33 +1000 (EST)
Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor

I have not tried but would be interested in the results.

You can get digital multimeters that have a duty cycle input this should
work and not cost much.
Some multimeters have a dwell for  checking ignition dwell/points gap which
may work for injectors????

If anyone has this type of multimeter one could they try it for us..


At 11:38 PM 3/1/99 PST, you wrote:
>I've searched the archives but could not find anything relevant. I am 
>interested to make my own injector duty monitor..sort of like the 
>air/fuel ratio..Can this be done? I am not very familiar with 
>electronics, but I've seen similar products. Therefore, I hope that 
>anyone of you super geniuses can help me. In Malaysia, I couldn't find 
>such a product. And to import it in would cost me an arm and leg due to 
>the import duties. Thank you.
>
>Regards
>tkkhoo@xxx.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>


Best Regards,

STUART BUNNING
SALES ENGINEER
KENELEC PTY LTD

23-25 REDLAND DRIVE
MITCHAM VICTORIA 3132
AUSTRALIA

PHONE:  61 3 9873 1022
FAX:    61 3 9873 0200
EMAIL:  stuart@xxx.au
WEB:    http://www.kenelec.com.au/

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #6
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