DIY_EFI Digest Friday, 8 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 021 In this issue: Good work Greg.. Photo Radar Photo Radar RE: Turbo header design Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] Re: Photo Radar Re: Good work Greg.. Re: ECM connector cleaner Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] Re: Photo Radar Re: ECM connector cleaner Re: Photo Radar Re: Photo Radar Re: Photo Radar Electronic timing advance Re: Good work Greg.. Re: ECM connector cleaner Re: Photo Radar Re: Photo Radar Wide Ratio Bosch O2 RE: Photo Radar Re: ECM connector cleaner RE: ECM connector cleaner Re: Turbo header design Inquiry 93 Z28 Disassembly - Found TPS voltage limits & default value Re: Water Injection Thread Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] Re: Photo Radar Re: Turbo header design See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: William Northrup Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 10:39:01 -0800 Subject: Good work Greg.. The header design you spoke of is a very good design. There are easy ways and lazy ways to kinda accomplish the same thing but they will never reach that potential. I had a set try y's on my street Mustang that worked and sounded awesome. As my Mustang grew into the full race (road race) mode my needs changed. I built a set of custom try's (not a set of fancy under the pan types) with oversized tubing. The oversized tubing was used to soften jagged torque peaking. When you are in a long right-hand sweeper at 120mph in oversteer, the sudden application of torque is a bad thing. These headers teamed up with a merge in the tertiary pipes works very well. The merge was accomplished by cutting off the outside 1/2 off of two 3 inch 90's and welding them together in an x or )( fashion. At about 6000 RPM this setup would develop a beautiful Indy car like whine through 7500 RPM. Check out the next NASCAR restrictor plate race. Look carefully at the exhaust system as they fly through the air and you will see what I am talking about. Greg can you please elaborate more on that resonance/expansion chamber you were talking about? Thanks! ------------------------------ From: "David Sagers" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:56:02 -0700 Subject: Photo Radar The secretary here has a louver screen on the front of her monitor so that people can't read sensitive information over her shoulder. The screen looks black if you are more than 30 degrees off center on the horizontal plane, but it does not block the view if you are above or below center. The problem with louver film is that it would be very visible to the eye and you would be a target for police. A better alternative would be a sheet of polarizing film. Polarizing film would appear transparent to the naked eye but two polarizing filters crossed at 90 degrees block out all light. I suspect that photoradar cameras have a polarizing filter set horizontal to cut back on glare. A second polarizing screen, oriented vertical, over a license plate would block the view from a camera with a horizontally positioned polarizing filter. You can check for a polarizing filter with another polarizing lens, such as a pair of sunglasses with polarizing lenses (mine were about $10 at Wal Mart). Look through one polarizing lens at the photoradar and rotate the lens. If the photoradar lens goes black then clear as you rotate your polarizing lens, the photoradar has a polarizing lens and you can use polarizing film to block the photoradar. Most states don't have photo radar (yet!), so you may not be interested in going to the trouble of getting a polarizing film to put over your license plate . . . Unless of course, you are concerned about secret government cameras tracking you as you drive down the road. ------------------------------ From: "David Sagers" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:57:36 -0700 Subject: Photo Radar Edmund Scientific carries polarizing film. On the net they are at http://www.edsci.com. Click on optics then polarizing to see a list of products ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:13:42 -0700 Subject: RE: Turbo header design >I don't know the in's and out's of this 180 degree situation but as a frame >of reference, the Saturns use a 180 degree crank, 2 coils, fire 2 injectors >at a time, etc. Runs dead smooth. > >Rick > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Clarence L.Snyder [SMTP:clare.snyder.on.ca@xxx.net] >> Sent: Friday, January 08, 1999 1:56 AM >> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >> Subject: Re: Turbo header design >> >> Greg Hermann wrote: >> > >> > > >> > > Care to elaborate on this a little? Are we talking about crank >> vibration >> > >(hamonic balancer/flywheel) or something else over my head? Also, a >> Chevy >> > >V-8 fires every 90 degrees of crank rotation. How does a flat crank V-8 >> > >fire? Every 180 degrees would make sense, but then it would take 4 >> turns of >> > >the crank to hit all 8?! I am so confused...... >> > >> > Secondary vibration, due to the fact that piston accelerations are >> > different at the top and bottom of the stroke due to con rod angularity. >> A >> > four cylinder has an up and down shafing force at twice crank speed >> (which >> > is sometimes countered fairly well with two "balance shafts" counter >> > rotating at twice crank speed.) A flat crank V-8 is like two fours. Too >> > late at night to try to describe the shaking which results. >> >> The well known "big four buzz" common to modified Ford "B"s, Vauxhaul >> 2300s, and ford 2300s, as well as the Vegas (ouch!!) My '28 Chevy >> National and Vauxhaul HC 2300 twin-carb both buzzed pretty good. Hard to >> immagine two of them out of phase!! The Vega was so bad cuz its block was so #@$% light! (that lightness turned into bigger amplitude shake) A pancake 8 is fine with a flat crank, cuz the two fours cancel each others shake perfectly (except for a twisting moment about the yaw axis through the center of mass if the bores are offset from side to side). Had that morning coffee now! Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:21:51 -0700 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] >diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: >> >> > > For the work-a-holics, just make a drive shaft using an old shaft, >>some 1/4 >> > > plate steel, a lathe, welder, and an axle from a FWD GM midsize. >> > The real work-a-holics use a hacksaw. And don't tell me I can't cut a >> > straight line with a hacksaw. >> > Shannen >> >For a mere $19.95 plus shipping+handling I ship you the manual. ; ) >It's a skill older than lead bodyfiller. >Shannen I believe that pipe fighters call it a "pipe-wrap" Greg > >> Okay, you can't cut a straight line with a hacksaw. I tried >> this for my mid-engined car - needed a CV on each end, >> mating 87 corvette IRS hubs to an Audi FWD transmission, >> slopped in the back of the vehicle. The first attempt was >> what you suggested - cutting both the GM and the Audi axles, >> inserting a 1/4" circular plate, and welding. After two >> attempts, I realized I couldn't weld them perfectly straight >> using the wooden jig I made, so I asked a friend to >> fabricate them from scratch. Less balancing issues, one >> piece, no worries about welds giving out (I don't weld as >> good as most), etc. >> >> A competent machine shop can spline both sides. >> >> -- >> >> Frederic Breitwieser >> Bridgeport, CT 06606 >> >> http://www.xephic.dynip.com >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental >> 1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab >> 2000 Buick GTP (V6 twin turbo) ------------------------------ From: jq Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:56:05 -0800 Subject: Re: Photo Radar uh guyz. check w/ u'r state to see if altering u'r license plate is illegal. over here even obsuring it w/ a bike rack is grounds for a ticket. ------------------------------ From: Daniel Ciobota Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:13:54 -0600 Subject: Re: Good work Greg.. William et al., I can attest to the neat indy sound gained with the "x pipe" merge mentioned in your post. A couple of companies sell these for mustangs, mine is a Dr. Gas unit. I tried to custom make one myself, but the tight radius required due to the short distance between the collectors made it nearly impossible without using expensive tubing. I believe Dr. Gas can sell you just the x piece for about $80 in a 2.5" or 3" diameter tube size. Btw, the sound is really awesome; I've had more than one car follow me to work and asking me how I got my stang to sound like a ferrari. I always smile when I tell them it's just exhaust... To William, can you e-mail me off line the details of your header system you built? I don't know what motor you have (mine's a late model 302), but I've always believed a properly designed exhaust can be worth as much if not more than all the other aftermarket boltons most people slap on their cars... I'm still searching for the best exhaust for my car. Daniel William Northrup wrote: > The header design you spoke of is a very good design. There are easy > ways and lazy ways to kinda accomplish the same thing but they will > never reach that potential. I had a set try y's on my street Mustang that > worked and sounded awesome. As my Mustang grew into the full race > (road race) mode my needs changed. I built a set of custom try's (not a > set of fancy under the pan types) with oversized tubing. The oversized > tubing was used to soften jagged torque peaking. When you are in a long > right-hand sweeper at 120mph in oversteer, the sudden application of > torque is a bad thing. These headers teamed up with a merge in the > tertiary pipes works very well. The merge was accomplished by cutting > off the outside 1/2 off of two 3 inch 90's and welding them together in an > x or )( fashion. At about 6000 RPM this setup would develop a beautiful > Indy car like whine through 7500 RPM. Check out the next NASCAR > restrictor plate race. Look carefully at the exhaust system as they fly > through the air and you will see what I am talking about. > > Greg can you please elaborate more on that resonance/expansion > chamber you were talking about? Thanks! ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 15:12:43 -0500 Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner Clarence Wood wrote: > > After chasing, for over a year, a stumble that occurs as boost goes over 5 lbs I had the remarkable encounter with a person who knew exactly what caused the problem. Strange, how solutions to problems present themselves! > Anyway, he told me that the Nissan 280's have a problem with the ECM, or ECCS, connectors. For some reason they become corroded and for some reason this causes a stumble. He said that they, in his shop, pull the connectors and spray them with WD40. Well, gasp! Not trusting WD40 to the task I used CRC contact cleaner, worked the connectors in and out, and low and behold, the stumble disappeared!!!! (:> ZM000000M > Now, what can I do to solve this problem??? Is there some chemical that I can use that will stop the corrosion? I thought about removing the connectors and using connectors like on my computer, that could be locked into place by set screws. This is a lot of work. Surely there must be something that can be sprayed, that will do the job! CRC makes a product for that purpose - can't remember the name. LPS 2 will do the job too. Even a silicone grease does wonders. ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 15:22:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: > > >diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: > >> > >> > > For the work-a-holics, just make a drive shaft using an old shaft, > >>some 1/4 > >> > > plate steel, a lathe, welder, and an axle from a FWD GM midsize. > >> > The real work-a-holics use a hacksaw. And don't tell me I can't cut a > >> > straight line with a hacksaw. > >> > Shannen > >> > >For a mere $19.95 plus shipping+handling I ship you the manual. ; ) > >It's a skill older than lead bodyfiller. > >Shannen > > I believe that pipe fighters call it a "pipe-wrap" > > Greg Shhh. Not everyone knows a pipefitter. Shannen ------------------------------ From: James Weiler Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:37:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Photo Radar I second that motion. jw On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: > Eric, > Is it possible for you to get some of this stuff and sell it to the members of the list? I'd bet that if an individual ordered it they would have to buy a lot more than they needed. > > At 10:08 PM 1/6/99 -0800, you wrote: > >3M makes some stuff they call Louver Film. It comes in a sheet (.062 or > >,032 thick) and built like a venitian blind, so restricts the viewing > >angle. Opaque off the design axis and clear on axis. We use it in the > >dispay biz to control the viewing angle of flat panel displays. > >Lotsa Luck Eric > >85 GTI with VR6 Power > > > > > ------------------------------ From: James Weiler Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:41:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner what about dielectric grease?Almost all the connections in the EEC-IV harness have this stuff in them. jw On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: > After chasing, for over a year, a stumble that occurs as boost goes over 5 lbs I had the remarkable encounter with a person who knew exactly what caused the problem. Strange, how solutions to problems present themselves! > Anyway, he told me that the Nissan 280's have a problem with the ECM, or ECCS, connectors. For some reason they become corroded and for some reason this causes a stumble. He said that they, in his shop, pull the connectors and spray them with WD40. Well, gasp! Not trusting WD40 to the task I used CRC contact cleaner, worked the connectors in and out, and low and behold, the stumble disappeared!!!! (:> ZM000000M > Now, what can I do to solve this problem??? Is there some chemical that I can use that will stop the corrosion? I thought about removing the connectors and using connectors like on my computer, that could be locked into place by set screws. This is a lot of work. Surely there must be something that can be sprayed, that will do the job! > > > ------------------------------ From: "David Sagers" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 13:56:20 -0700 Subject: Re: Photo Radar It is in most US States, but it's much cheaper than a moving violation ticket. Also, this infraction is not aggressively enforced, >>> jq 01/08 12:56 PM >>> uh guyz. check w/ u'r state to see if altering u'r license plate is illegal. over here even obsuring it w/ a bike rack is grounds for a ticket. ------------------------------ From: Chris Conlon Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 15:57:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Photo Radar At 11:56 AM 1/8/99 -0700, David Sagers wrote: > The secretary here has a louver screen on the front of her monitor > so that people can't read sensitive information over her shoulder. > The screen looks black if you are more than 30 degrees off center > on the horizontal plane, but it does not block the view if you are > above or below center. Has everyone seen those billboards that show different images as you move from dead-on to viewing from a shallow angle? *That's* what we need alright! ;) One with the State Governor's plate # would be pretty popular... Another issue with louver film is that the camera may be taking a picture when you're well down the road, and thus it'd be seeing the plate pretty much straight on. My car (thank you Toyota!) has the plate in a recessed area compares to the taillights, which already obscures a letter or 2 at extreme viewing angles. > The problem with louver film is that it would be very visible to the > eye and you would be a target for police. A better alternative > would be a sheet of polarizing film. Polarizing film would appear Agree with the comments on polarizing. Perhaps this is part of a solution to LIDAR as well? Actually while thinking about LIDAR countermeasures I stumbled across "circular polarizing" filters, used for laptop screens. Incoming light was polarized in such a way that the reflected light didn't make it back through the filter again. (Sorry, the details elude me.) Light coming *out* from the laptop display got polarized once, but made it through ok. Maybe you could mount such a filter 1" or so off the place, so that the license plate lights would still illuminate it ok, but outside light (LIDAR, photo radar flash) would not make it through as easily? Does the plate itself (and/or the corner reflector material) also have a polarizing effect too? As for it being illegal to obstruct the plate, I'm sure it technically is here (MD/DC/VA area in the USA), but lots of people do it and seem to get by ok. Also at least in some places it would be a cheap, no-points fix-it ticket, and if it saves you from an expensive, points-carrying speeding ticket... well, might be worth it. Chris ------------------------------ From: "Ronald T. Webb" Date: Tue, 07 Jan 1997 12:00:30 -0900 Subject: Re: Photo Radar One comment on photo RADAR. In Anchorage, Alaska, it was tried. The judges would not convict (they are elected) and the people raised hell. The police are public employees. They can be reminded of that if enough voices are loud enough! Sorry to get so far off topic. David Sagers wrote: > The secretary here has a louver screen on the front of her monitor so that people can't read sensitive information over her shoulder. The screen looks black if you are more than 30 degrees off center on the horizontal plane, but it does not block the view if you are above or below center. > > The problem with louver film is that it would be very visible to the eye and you would be a target for police. A better alternative would be a sheet of polarizing film. Polarizing film would appear transparent to the naked eye but two polarizing filters crossed at 90 degrees block out all light. > > I suspect that photoradar cameras have a polarizing filter set horizontal to cut back on glare. A second polarizing screen, oriented vertical, over a license plate would block the view from a camera with a horizontally positioned polarizing filter. > > You can check for a polarizing filter with another polarizing lens, such as a pair of sunglasses with polarizing lenses (mine were about $10 at Wal Mart). Look through one polarizing lens at the photoradar and rotate the lens. If the photoradar lens goes black then clear as you rotate your polarizing lens, the photoradar has a polarizing lens and you can use polarizing film to block the photoradar. > > Most states don't have photo radar (yet!), so you may not be interested in going to the trouble of getting a polarizing film to put over your license plate . . . Unless of course, you are concerned about secret government cameras tracking you as you drive down the road. ------------------------------ From: Matt Beaubien Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:28:54 -0700 (MST) Subject: Electronic timing advance Bruce, > >The requirements are relatively simple: > >1. Replace the existing twin contact breakers with an optical pick up > >arranged to fire every 60 degrees. > > Crane Camshafts in Florida, USA, makes a universal optical ignition. > > >2. Disable the original advance / retard mechanism. > >3. Feed the optical pick up output to a digital advance / retard unit > >implementing a simple, programmable advance curve capable of at least 16 > >sites. > > Commercially MSD, Holley make said units, kits are available from > Australia, for a DIY. Use the optics to trigger a oem ecm, and just > use the ignition part of that. If you want to do a total DIY visit 332EFI, > you can get there off the diy_efi home page. The Accel 49340 (IIRC) allows what the orginal poster is looking for. It has adjustable vacuum/boost advance/retard as well as a N20 input. It may require a magnetic reluctor-type signal to function though. I don't think MSD makes something similar (you can only adjust the slope and max advance as far as I know), and I'm not too familiar with the Holley stuff. The Accel piece is ~$150-$200. Hope that helps. Matt. ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:32:41 -0700 Subject: Re: Good work Greg.. > The header design you spoke of is a very good design. Thanks! Just so as we all understand that there is no "IDEAL" header design! These headers teamed up with a merge in the >tertiary pipes works very well. The merge was accomplished by cutting >off the outside 1/2 off of two 3 inch 90's and welding them together in an >x or )( fashion. At about 6000 RPM this setup would develop a beautiful >Indy car like whine through 7500 RPM. Check out the next NASCAR >restrictor plate race. Look carefully at the exhaust system as they fly >through the air and you will see what I am talking about. No need to look under those circumstances--there's a much easier way to view it--look at a picture of it in the Burns Stainless catalogue!! :-) > >Greg can you please elaborate more on that resonance/expansion >chamber you were talking about? Thanks! Picture a straight piece of pipe, appropriate size. Support it so that neither piece will move when you are done with the bandsaw or tube cutter. Make the first cut (square to the pipe) so that the length of the tertiary tube to the cut from the merge of the secondary tubes to the cut is the same length as the primary and secondary tubes. Make your second cut about 1/2' or 3/4" behind the first cut (don't need much length to the gap you are creating.) (Remove the short piece!) :-) Now build the plenum chamber around the gap so that the total volume of the chamber is about twice the volume of the tertiary tube up to the first cut. (more volume does not hurt, but about twice is about enough to do the job.) Shape of chamber (oval, round, etc does not much matter, enough internal volume is what does matter.) The chamber is concentric with the pipe, and usually most of it is positioned ahead of the gap, sorrounding the tertiary tube. From the gap back, it does not much matter what you do as to length, so long as the tail pipe (and straight thru muffler or mufflers, if needed) stay the same diameter as the tertiary pipe. The header will see the gap in the pipe as an open end for pulse tuning. I SUSPECT that such a plenum may even work better than an open pipe terminated at the same length as where the first cut is. I think that the "cross" between the tertiary pipes on a system like you described is a "lazy" way to get closer to the tuning of true, crossed over 180 degree headers on a V-8. If you are willing (and if it is possible, no small if there!) to do true 180's, I do not think that the cross would do much for you at all. Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:43:24 -0700 Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner >what about dielectric grease?Almost all the connections in the EEC-IV >harness have this stuff in them. >jw There is some kind of whitish-clear silicone goop that Phone and Cable TV guys use on outdoor connections which is killer for that purpose--but I dunno a name or source for it. Greg > > >On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: > >> After chasing, for over a year, a stumble that occurs as boost goes >>over 5 lbs I had the remarkable encounter with a person who knew exactly >>what caused the problem. Strange, how solutions to problems present >>themselves! >> Anyway, he told me that the Nissan 280's have a problem with the ECM, >>or ECCS, connectors. For some reason they become corroded and for some >>reason this causes a stumble. He said that they, in his shop, pull the >>connectors and spray them with WD40. Well, gasp! Not trusting WD40 to >>the task I used CRC contact cleaner, worked the connectors in and out, >>and low and behold, the stumble disappeared!!!! (:> ZM000000M >> Now, what can I do to solve this problem??? Is there some chemical >>that I can use that will stop the corrosion? I thought about removing >>the connectors and using connectors like on my computer, that could be >>locked into place by set screws. This is a lot of work. Surely there >>must be something that can be sprayed, that will do the job! >> >> >> ------------------------------ From: Pat Ford Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:59:06 -0500 Subject: Re: Photo Radar On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, David Sagers wrote: > Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 13:56:20 -0700 > From: David Sagers > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Photo Radar > > It is in most US States, but it's much cheaper than a moving violation ticket. Also, this infraction is not aggressively enforced, in the Ottawa Can. area it seems that if you didn't make the cop drop his doughnut he wont bother you > > >>> jq 01/08 12:56 PM >>> > uh guyz. > > check w/ u'r state to see if altering u'r > license plate is illegal. > > over here even obsuring it w/ a bike rack is > grounds for a ticket. strange for the last two weeks my tracker has been coat in ice Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:03:36 -0700 Subject: Re: Photo Radar > >in the Ottawa Can. area it seems that if you didn't make the cop drop his >doughnut he wont bother you > >> In Colorado, if he spills his coffee, it's an equal number of points--go straight to jail if he does both! Greg ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 18:07:01 -0500 Subject: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 Would anyone happen to know of an application, or part number for a Bosch wide ratio O2 sensor. Other than NGK (NGT), and Bosch anyone know of any others?. Not leaded resistant like the LSM-11, wide ratio. Thanks in advance Bruce ------------------------------ From: todd israels Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:38:53 -0500 Subject: RE: Photo Radar At 10:43 PM 1/7/99 -0700, you wrote: >Got a 3M P/N for the stuff? >/Marc > >---------- >From: Eric Schumacher[SMTP:e.schumacher@xxx.net] >Sent: January 6, 1999 11:08 PM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: Photo Radar > >3M makes some stuff they call Louver Film. It comes in a sheet (.062 or >,032 thick) and built like a venitian blind, so restricts the viewing >angle. Opaque off the design axis and clear on axis. We use it in the >dispay biz to control the viewing angle of flat panel displays. >Lotsa Luck Eric >85 GTI with VR6 Power > > > I have heard a roumor that several layers of clearcoat applied to the plate will give a simmilar result. Mutch like you can see the rool if you look directly at a rool of plastic film(seran wrap) but the rool soon disapears as it rool away. Dont know any details except a comment of 2 cans per plate. A bike rack mounted on the hitch will work as well and probably not get the police excited very often. Todd Israels ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 17:11:14 -0600 Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner Sounds great! Where is it sold? Who makes it? Maybe less expensive than backfire at full boost. Do you have to buy in quantity? At 01:23 PM 1/8/99 -0500, you wrote: >Hello, > >Poly Phenyl Ether seems to work well. Stabilant 22A works even better but >is bloody expensive. I prefer Stabilant 22A as it is a non conductive >liquid which becomes conductive when there is arcing between the contacts. >I use Stabilant 22A at work on connectors which are worn out but a real >pain to replace (200 pin connectors between rows of surface mount parts >for example). > >Wen > ------------------------------ From: Marc Piccioni Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 18:09:55 -0700 Subject: RE: ECM connector cleaner try getting some electrical conductive grease from GM or Ford they sell small tube exactly for this purpose - ---------- From: Clarence Wood[SMTP:clarencewood@xxx.net] Sent: January 8, 1999 10:39 AM To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: ECM connector cleaner After chasing, for over a year, a stumble that occurs as boost goes over 5 lbs I had the remarkable encounter with a person who knew exactly what caused the problem. Strange, how solutions to problems present themselves! Anyway, he told me that the Nissan 280's have a problem with the ECM, or ECCS, connectors. For some reason they become corroded and for some reason this causes a stumble. He said that they, in his shop, pull the connectors and spray them with WD40. Well, gasp! Not trusting WD40 to the task I used CRC contact cleaner, worked the connectors in and out, and low and behold, the stumble disappeared!!!! (:> ZM000000M Now, what can I do to solve this problem??? Is there some chemical that I can use that will stop the corrosion? I thought about removing the connectors and using connectors like on my computer, that could be locked into place by set screws. This is a lot of work. Surely there must be something that can be sprayed, that will do the job! begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(C$!`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`& !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&$`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S M,BYE;F``,P`0`` M`"(```!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;F5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@$+, $````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S M,BY%3D,1L.[X!'@!P``$````:````4D4Z($5#32!C;VYN96-T;W(@8VQE86YE M<@xxx.VS$>*3F#DRG(Q'2OIQ$15-4`````!X`'@P! M````!0```%--5% `````'@`?# $````8````;7!I8V-I;VYI0&%T=&-A;F%D M82YN970``P`&$#A[_8X#``<0^0,``!X`"! !````90```%1264=%5%1)3D=3 M3TU%14Q%0U1224-!3$-/3D150U1)5D5'4D5!4T5&4D]-1TU/4D9/4D142$59 M4T5,3%--04Q,5%5"145804-43%E&3U)42$E34%524$]312TM+2TM+2TM+2T` M`````@$)$ $```"M! ``J00``)@'``!,6D9U7;+/?_\`"@$/`A4"J 7K`H,` M4 +R"0(`8V@*P'-E=#(W!@`&PP*#,@/%`@!P)S=&5M`H,SMP+D!Q," M@S02S!3%?0J BPC/"=D[%Y\R-34"@ <*@0VQ"V!N9S$P,R\44 L*%%$+\F,` M0"!T4')Y(&<1P'0+@&>$(',#<&4@96P%D"D<@&EC!T @!:!N9+)U'5\-P&E $SCA&N R+@GP9RYOZ2* ;RT3P&$3T#F 'G!W-*\P'B%P:AVQ M-L\K*T7^0Q_ 'D$NP!W !;$M(!\0S2[ 1(42C-2!L8@xxx.]% MX2PQ"& N`'5/$;!( MI":Q1=%M+D- 4_L<@xxx.P2T 'X!U "D#_'/ "( 0@/Z!--B*A%Z 1L)\" M,"!23^ =D![ P4JA350_2D1(PC\!,[ %L3\`0U/[,[ _1W--L2 1'30?`DL!_R!C M(8 %H!UA!:$#8 VP($#_`' @0"(R5]PBD4R31K%%ANU-L4@=<%/ :2!"4R12 M(=<+@xxx.\A,DC15LA9TW,34%(04(/92D171"4P3;%7(,$S ML-)G'R!P(4- 3B;0''$_3+ <\V$B3T)(P@&0Y5EQ`) "(&\R(%$(8&?^: 5 `:!GT4CR1* =`E[__R! 3+ =`E\Y)'!F M,!_0`Z#^;1R@60$BP"Z!:4),8@A@]U*A(8$7,&-F,BYA3V$+8'TL46(@D@5 M!/$'T%=25-\B@B*11/ 7,$9!9F7S3;+O"' =D&!C;\%M8L%Y] _PMDO15B,A*P)K8*A1;!`(9P```` M`P`0$ `````#`!$0`0```$ `!S#@X$V8;#N^`4 `"##@X$V8;#N^`1X`/0`! 1````!0```%)%.B `````LNX` ` end ------------------------------ From: FHPREMACH@xxx.com Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:46:27 EST Subject: Re: Turbo header design In a message dated 1/8/99 9:47:24 AM Pacific Standard Time, JemisonR@xxx.com writes: << I don't know the in's and out's of this 180 degree situation but as a frame of reference, the Saturns use a 180 degree crank, 2 coils, fire 2 injectors at a time, etc. Runs dead smooth. Rick >> Yes, it is true that four cylinder motors use flat cranks, BMW twins run them and a host of other uses. They equal power pulses. Triumph Twins used a a single throw crank and suffered from lots of interesting balance problems when they were raced, some experiemtation was done with opposing throws, but it went to a 90/270 firing order. Actually better on slick tracks or with tire restrictions, but sounds strange and a lot of trouble to do. I raced one of the few ones locally that didn't try to shake apart. Ran about 78% total weight for balance. Full weight flywheel helped. Flat cranks on V8's are another matter, they treat the motor as two nested straight 4's. As a note Chris Craft in England was making a V8 from two Yamaha 1100's on a 90 degree crank case. Used Carrilo rods and custom crank. Never heard a price. Used all stock parts from the base gasket up and made great power. A note about uneven firing and such. Harley and Ducati have had advantages over other bikes at times in racing. Harley's uneven power pulses allowed the tires to plant better betwen pulses. Ducati twins were better off the corners than the fours for the same relative reason. Some of the Japanese racing two stroke fours were set up to pair the power strokes for the same reason. more of a tractor torque instead of a jet. Didn't affect dyno HP, just tractability. Fred ------------------------------ From: Qiang Chen Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:09:42 0800 Subject: Inquiry Hello members, Is there any body who can tell me what the percentage of the four stroke motorcycle engine that is using EFI? What is the configuration (CPU,RAM,ROM,I/O,PIN, Injector,Spark Plug, Battery) of a typical EFIed motorcycle engine ECU, eg 250-500ml? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, Qiang Chen mailto:q_chen@xxx.net ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 22:01:21 -0600 Subject: 93 Z28 Disassembly - Found TPS voltage limits & default value I tackled the Throttle Load Axis Variable (it is used heavily to determine TCC lockup). I still don't understand exactly what is is calculating, if someone wants to look at the flowchart, it is at http://www.hit.net/~rah/F43B_F4C6.gif . The part of the code that I don't understand the purpose of is the A = A - B part, I don't understand exactly why. The rest of things are pretty clear. I have the things that confuse me marked as such. Ok, I found the limits of the TPS voltage. If the voltage is less than 0x0C or greater than 0xF6 then it uses 0x38 as the default value. I expect with the TPS failed things may run pretty odd. The above limits are pretty clear from the flowchart. The page for all of my info is at: http://www.hit.net/~rah/promwork.html Roger ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:07:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Martin Scarr wrote: > > > On Thu, 7 Jan 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > > > > That said, I've heard stories about 350's swapped into Corvairs, and > > rear mounted. I thought the original powerplant was CCW rotation? > > Anyone? > > > > Shannen > > A 350 won't fit in the rear of a Corvair, it's too long. A friend just > put a 4.3 in the rear, and it was a tight fit. Yes, he built a reverse > rotation engine for it. > Never say never. It might not be too desireable to do, but I have seen it done. a 327 not a 350 not that that makes any dimensional difference... ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:15:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread [now U joints] On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Greg Hermann wrote: > >> > > For the work-a-holics, just make a drive shaft using an old shaft, > >>some 1/4 > >> > > plate steel, a lathe, welder, and an axle from a FWD GM midsize. > >> > The real work-a-holics use a hacksaw. And don't tell me I can't cut a > >> > straight line with a hacksaw. > >> > Shannen > >> > >For a mere $19.95 plus shipping+handling I ship you the manual. ; ) > >It's a skill older than lead bodyfiller. > >Shannen > > I believe that pipe fighters call it a "pipe-wrap" > > >> using the wooden jig I made, so I asked a friend to > >> fabricate them from scratch. Less balancing issues, one > >> piece, no worries about welds giving out (I don't weld as > >> good as most), etc. > >> Not that you should do this but...if you must cut a thin wall tube straight buy a KD roller type exhaust pipe cutter, set up carefully and rock on. ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:21:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Photo Radar On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, jq wrote: > uh guyz. > > check w/ u'r state to see if altering u'r > license plate is illegal. > > over here even obsuring it w/ a bike rack is > grounds for a ticket. > Yes it is, but the numbskulls dont enforce it. They just announced it with lotsa PR and then ran and hid. Its "invisible" to the police... They are also BSing on the plastic plate covers, too. I got some seized and when I set a court date, they "elected not to prosecute" political correctness is sure confusing... ------------------------------ From: "Jon Fedock" Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 23:30:52 -0500 Subject: Re: Turbo header design Thanks for the information. I have visions of header tubes criscrossing under everything I own now :). Jon - -----Original Message----- From: Greg Hermann To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 12:35 AM Subject: Re: Turbo header design >> >> Care to elaborate on this a little? Are we talking about crank vibration >>(hamonic balancer/flywheel) or something else over my head? Also, a Chevy >>V-8 fires every 90 degrees of crank rotation. How does a flat crank V-8 >>fire? Every 180 degrees would make sense, but then it would take 4 turns of >>the crank to hit all 8?! I am so confused...... > >Secondary vibration, due to the fact that piston accelerations are >different at the top and bottom of the stroke due to con rod angularity. A >four cylinder has an up and down shafing force at twice crank speed (which >is sometimes countered fairly well with two "balance shafts" counter >rotating at twice crank speed.) A flat crank V-8 is like two fours. Too >late at night to try to describe the shaking which results. A 90 degree >crank V-8 is not in perfect primary and secondary balance, as Gary claimed, >but it is close. An in line 6 has inherently PERFECT primary and secondary >balance. Only reason for crank sounterweights inna 6 is to reduce bending >stress in the crank and block. > >Tertiary balance is another matter--it has to do with connecting rod mass >distribution, and is generally accepted as being not too significant. >Efforts to obtain/improve it explain the long tangs sometimes seen >projecting above the small end on a connecting rod, and also the rather >large pads often seen on the bottom of the big and cap of rods. > >Why the Super speedway headers sound so neat (as also did Ford Mark IV's >and Ford's four -cam Indy V-8's) is cause the individual exhaust pulses >into each of their two collectors are EVENLY SPACED (180 crank degrees >apart) , from whence the name. You cannot get that on a V-8 with a 90 >degree crank without crossing tubes from side to side (bank to bank) to the >collectors. You do get it with a four into one header on each bank (without >crossovers) on a V-8 with a flat crank. > >Regards, Greg > > > ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #21 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".