DIY_EFI Digest Saturday, 9 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 024 In this issue: Re: Stepper Motors Re: ECM connector cleaner Re: ECM connector cleaner Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? Re: Stepper Motors Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Heat sink compound carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) RE: Turbo header design Electronic timing advance Re: Heat sink compound vs. dielectric Re: Motronic Interface ? Re: Heat sink compound re:Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Re: Injector Duty Monitor Re: 93 Z28 Disassembly - Found TPS voltage limits & default value Re: Uh-Oh, PICs RE: Heat sink compound Re: Water Injection Thread & CorvEight Re: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 Re: Aussie GM 3.8 V6 coil packs Re: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 RE: Heat sink compound Re: Electronic timing advance 2 Bar MAP V-8 Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic AUJP C/L+Learn enables See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Peter Fenske" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:44:33 -0800 Subject: Re: Stepper Motors Old printers had some fairly large ones. :peter ------------------------------ From: Wen Yen Chan Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:50:34 -0500 Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner Hello, I got my can at Electrosonic. They have 5 locations in Canada. The Toronto branch is at 1100 Gordon Baker Rd, Willowdale, Ontario, M2H 3B3. Their phone number is 416-494-1555 or 416-494-1555 (fax). Shipping is usually overnight. Here are the cat #s: P.P.E. - 801B-125G Stab. 22A - stabilant22a Stabilant 22a is manufactured by D.W. Electrochemicals Ltd. 97 Newkirk Road North , Unit 3, Richmond Hill Ontario Canada, L4c3g4. On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: > Sounds great! Where is it sold? Who makes it? Maybe less expensive than backfire at full boost. Do you have to buy in quantity? > > At 01:23 PM 1/8/99 -0500, you wrote: > >Hello, > > > >Poly Phenyl Ether seems to work well. Stabilant 22A works even better but > >is bloody expensive. I prefer Stabilant 22A as it is a non conductive > >liquid which becomes conductive when there is arcing between the contacts. > >I use Stabilant 22A at work on connectors which are worn out but a real > >pain to replace (200 pin connectors between rows of surface mount parts > >for example). > > > >Wen > > > > ------------------------------ From: Wen Yen Chan Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:52:38 -0500 Subject: Re: ECM connector cleaner Hello, I forgot to mention that Electrosonic sells the stuff in 3/4 ounce bottles for $30 cnd. On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Clarence L.Snyder wrote: > Clarence Wood wrote: > > > > Sounds great! Where is it sold? Who makes it? Maybe less expensive than backfire at full boost. Do you have to buy in quantity? > > > > The Stab22 IS expensive. When I bought mine (about seven years ago) it > was something like $47 US per ounce. came in a six ounce bottle if I > remember for close to $300 including shipping. > Works good on memory and processor sockets to avoid crashes - Sorry. I > don.t have manufacturers info - the company I worked for then is history > so I can't even check there. I have a couple ounces left. > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:05:04 -0500 Subject: Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? - -----Original Message----- From: Roger Heflin To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:41 PM Subject: Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? If I was locking the converter, then I'd do it just over the flash speed of the converter. As I understand things, the torque multiplication is about over or should be as you reach max torque, and that should be a tad higher than the stall speed of the converter. Course IMHO, if your gettting that serious then a 200R makes even more sense since you get a set of closer gears, and then run a higher (numerically) rear gear. Just wish there was an electric valve body for the 200R sitting on the floor here. Then I'd go to a PCM. Just outta curiousity how did you figure your at 365HP?. Bruce Bruce Plecan wrote: >> Then why at 300HP did I start killing them so often, and then deleting >> the TCC instantly it lived. > >I am running over 300 hp (365hp), and the stock computer has been >locking it at wot (95mph) for over a year, and at 300hp for a year >before that and I have not (yet) had any problems, but I do have an >aftermerket convertor that could potentitally be alot harder than any >of the stock convertors. > >> >The problems that arise is if the TCC solenoid becomes plugged. then the >> >TCC slips and will destroy itself... this happens in any trans with TCC. >> >> I'd had mine out several times, and appart and never saw any >> evidence of even an accumulation of anything there. >> >> I still stand by what I said, to avoid failures, don't lock it at WOT, or >> run a non TCC converter, period. > >GM by default locks the 4th gen A4 at wot. It is at a different >speed on the 93's than the 95+ cars but, I would hope that had >tested this sort of thing enough to know how long it would last, >maybe I just got a good tranny, mine is past 115k on a high hp engine, >with only a shift kit and better higher slip torque convertor added. > Roger ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:05:56 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote: > What kind of ET's are you running, and how do you plan on going?. > > Bruce I am running about 12.7@xxx. One thing I have noticed is that right after my 2nd-3rd shift, at 95 my TCC locks and drops me about 500 rpm (from 4500 where I have decent power to 3900-4000) where I don't, and I never really get back to the powerband anywhere after the 1/8. I figure on at least getting some gain from moving the lockup from 95 to higher speeds so that I stay better in the powerband. It accelerates much better at 4500 (unlocked) than it does at 4000 (locked). I am hopeing if I get things tuned correctly I can get things down to more like a 12.2 or so with just tuning. I am running kind of rich below 4500, and in both 1st and 2nd gears (930-950 mv in 1st), and I believe I can make some large improvements in that. If nothing makeing the TC not lock should be fairly help in 3rd. It would also be helpful to make it lock in 2nd and allow me to go 2-3mph faster in 2nd therefore putting me at higher rpms in 3rd. I have done everything to the engine that can be done right now, I can only enlarge the exhaust and headers more (go to a 3.5" single pipe), or add nitrous (and destroy a tranny/rearend real soon). Roger ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:11:06 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: Roger Heflin > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:41 PM > Subject: Re: TCC lockup - which scheme would give better performance? > > If I was locking the converter, then I'd do it just over the flash speed of > the converter. As I understand things, the torque multiplication is about > over > or should be as you reach max torque, and that should be a tad higher than > the stall speed of the converter. Course IMHO, if your gettting that > serious then > a 200R makes even more sense since you get a set of closer gears, and > then run a higher (numerically) rear gear. Just wish there was an electric > valve body for the 200R sitting on the floor here. Then I'd go to a PCM. > Just outta curiousity how did you figure your at 365HP?. > Bruce I am not worried about the torque multiplication. I am just happy if the torque convertor is slipping enough to put me at a higher torque position on the engine. Probably before the TCC was locking up at somewhere around peak torque, now my peak torque is higher, I guess I should lock it around peak engine torque. The 365 hp was figured by using a rear wheel dyno (actually two different rear wheel dynos that both agreed with 5hp (corrected) several months apart). So that is 365 rwhp, I don't really know what I have at the engine. The stock manual tranny vehicle was supposed to loose at least 33 hp, so I figure at A4 loses more like 45-50 (assuming the losses don't increase with HP, and probably there is a component that increases with HP and another component that does not). So engine is somewhere around 410-415 hp. Roger ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 15:13:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Stepper Motors Robert Harris wrote: > > Any clues for sources of inexpensive 12VDC small stepper motors ( but bigger > than those used in hard drives). I think I may have a need if they are > reasonable in power, speed and price. > > Thanks. > > The Luddites were RIGHT!! > > Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore Try old printers - the bigger the better - and old photo-copiers and laser printers. ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 15:18:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Clarence Wood wrote: > > A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to insure good connections. > Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! > > IZCC #3426 > 1982 280ZX Turbo GL > 1966 El Camino > 1982 Yamaha Maxim XJ-1101J Motorcycle > 1975 Honda CB750 SS (black engine) > 1986 Snapper Comet lawn mower > Clarence Wood > Software&Such... > clarencewood@xxx.net > Savannah, TN. Most - possibly not all. ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 15:23:28 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Roger Heflin wrote: > > On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: > > > A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink > > compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged > > the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to > > insure good connections. > > Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! > > A diaelectric is an insulator. It does not maintain a good > connection, that is the whole idea. Using heat sink compound to > insure a good connection would be really bad. Most heat sinks the > case is ground and you want it to have a good connection with ground, > dielectric is supposed to not maintain a good connection. Of course > if most of the people he was selling it to are using it in the spark > plug boots I really don't see it making that much of a difference. In > the books I have the insulating material in a capacitor is called a > dielectric so that would lead me to believe that dielectric grease was > non-conduction. > > Roger What you want is electrically neutral. A conductor would cause shorts between connectors in a plug. The ideal is an insulator that displaces easily from pressure points - like connector fingers/pins, sealing air and moisture from the connectors. A good dialectric or heat sink compound meets this requirement, unless you are working with very low current/low voltage signals where specialized stuff like the Stab22 is required. Do NOT use RTV silicone, as it produced Acetic acid as it cures (hense the vinegar smell) which will (or can) corrode connections. ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 20:49:09 +0000 Subject: Heat sink compound >A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink >compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged >the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to >insure good connections. >Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! Most heat sink compounds are diaelectrics, which is an electronic insulator, but a thermally conductive substance. Most components mounted on a heat sink either use the heat sink as a thermal dissapation device, or, if the heat sink is part of the circuit (in the case of much larger electronic devices sometimes), the part is bolted to the heat sink to ensure a reliable electronic connection as well as thermal conductivity. While in college, I worked for a small manufacturing company in NJ, where I had the opportunity to assemble electronic motor brakes. The devices varying in size from a 120V 5A capacity up to a 660V 120A capacity often relied on the heat sinks (which were 1/4" aluminum "C" channel about 2' long, 8" wide, and 2" high on the larger models) as a primary conductor. What I found "interesting" is they were using 0 guage cable, yet holding the parts to the heat sinks with severely undersized screws, which are severely narrower than the wires they crimped and bolted to the heat sinks. The point of the story is they apparently had the same impression as your autozone friend, that the heat sink compound conducts electricity - the larger devices this company just attempted to introduce into the market kept failing due to the limited current capacity of the small mounting screws between the part and the heat sink - since the compound doesn't conduct electricity very well. Aside from the "goo" type of heat sink compounds, there are a few other choices. THere are these little mica washers typically used over the years underneath TO-3 transister cases, acting as an insulator for electricity, but a reasonable conductor of heat. Not as good as the compounds, but they are easier to work with. Some manufacturers have had problems with human-assembled products because some products receive more heat-sink compound than others, and depending on how far to the limits the unit was designed, "Pop" goes the unit. Radio Shack experienced this with their home receivers back in the late 70's for a brief period. ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:02:03 -0700 Subject: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) Hi All-- A week or so ago, someone asked me about the whereabouts of Bore Tech. Got it. And it is Bore Tech, not Boretek, as I wrote. And in Ohio, not PA as I wrote. Oh Well! Boy, was I wrong! Bore Tech 5977 Hutchinson Road Batavia, Ohio, 45103 (513) 625-8374 (voice) (513) 625-2836 (FAX) Saw an ad in a pals copy of "Vintage Views", a vintage motorcycle racing as'sn. newsletter. It is some sort of a proprietary carbide conversion which they do to the surface of the cast iron. They mention thermal and friction advantages as well as "incredible" bore life. Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:10:56 -0500 Subject: RE: Turbo header design Clive, You're absolutely correct. But of all the 4 stroke 4 cyls I've owned these two are the only ones to make use of the fact and run nultiple cyls off same coil, bank for injectors, etc. Sorry for stating something which at least on the outset seems obvious. Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 > [SMTP:clive@xxx.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 1:41 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Turbo header design > > > > > Fred, > > > > Well, I've got 4 XS1100s and they definitely get a punch from the 180 > design > > (95hp) stock. And this was 20 years ago. The uneven torque helps when > the > > surface doesn't allow an even transfer of power (like dirt tracks for > > instance). Then the uneven machines have a definite advantage as the > lull > > between strokes helps the tire 'grab' the track again. > > > all 4 cyl 4 strokes should be 180^ by default > anything else would be just plain dumb > > Clive ------------------------------ From: HADJIASLANIS ARIS 1260 800 Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:48:00 +0200 Subject: Electronic timing advance Matt, Bruce & Robert thank you very much. I will use your interesting inputs to begin assembling a viable solution to my DINO engine problem. I guess I will start looking for the web sites of Allison, Crane Camshafts, Holley & MSD. Bruce, can you pls provide info about the Australian DIY kits you mention in your reply. Concerning the diy_efi web page and project 332EFI, I am aware of it but at this instant I have too litlle time to get involved so deeply! Regards Aris ---------- From: Matt Beaubien To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: Electronic timing advance Date: 08 January 1999 23:28 Bruce, > >The requirements are relatively simple: > >1. Replace the existing twin contact breakers with an optical pick up > >arranged to fire every 60 degrees. > > Crane Camshafts in Florida, USA, makes a universal optical ignition. > > >2. Disable the original advance / retard mechanism. > >3. Feed the optical pick up output to a digital advance / retard unit > >implementing a simple, programmable advance curve capable of at least 16 > >sites. > > Commercially MSD, Holley make said units, kits are available from > Australia, for a DIY. Use the optics to trigger a oem ecm, and just > use the ignition part of that. If you want to do a total DIY visit 332EFI, > you can get there off the diy_efi home page. The Accel 49340 (IIRC) allows what the orginal poster is looking for. It has adjustable vacuum/boost advance/retard as well as a N20 input. It may require a magnetic reluctor-type signal to function though. I don't think MSD makes something similar (you can only adjust the slope and max advance as far as I know), and I'm not too familiar with the Holley stuff. The Accel piece is ~$150-$200. Hope that helps. Matt. ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 16:21:48 -0600 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound vs. dielectric I found a tube of silicone dielectric compound (notice I learned how to spell it!) at NAPA: ECHLIN ML-3 contains dimethylpolysiloxane, $10.95 for 1 oz. At 03:23 PM 1/9/99 -0500, you wrote: >Roger Heflin wrote: >> >> On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, Clarence Wood wrote: >> >> > A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink >> > compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged >> > the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to >> > insure good connections. >> > Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! >> >> A diaelectric is an insulator. It does not maintain a good >> connection, that is the whole idea. Using heat sink compound to >> insure a good connection would be really bad. Most heat sinks the >> case is ground and you want it to have a good connection with ground, >> dielectric is supposed to not maintain a good connection. Of course >> if most of the people he was selling it to are using it in the spark >> plug boots I really don't see it making that much of a difference. In >> the books I have the insulating material in a capacitor is called a >> dielectric so that would lead me to believe that dielectric grease was >> non-conduction. >> >> Roger >What you want is electrically neutral. A conductor would cause shorts >between connectors in a plug. The ideal is an insulator that displaces >easily from pressure points - like connector fingers/pins, sealing air >and moisture from the connectors. A good dialectric or heat sink >compound meets this requirement, unless you are working with very low >current/low voltage signals where specialized stuff like the Stab22 is >required. >Do NOT use RTV silicone, as it produced Acetic acid as it cures (hense >the vinegar smell) which will (or can) corrode connections. > > ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:50:40 +0000 Subject: Re: Motronic Interface ? > Has anybody got an idea which protocal is ussed byt the bosch motronic > 1.5/2.5 ECUs? > The diagnostics port on my car looks nearly like the ALDL ports and not like > OBD-II. > > What is the equivalent to to Vauxhaul Astra (UK) {OPEL Astra (RSA)} in the > rest of the > world, maybe somebody has go some info on the computer, but published it > under another > name ? > ISO-9141? alex ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:53:57 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Heat sink compound On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > >A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink > >compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged > >the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to > >insure good connections. > >Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! > > Most heat sink compounds are diaelectrics, which is an > electronic insulator, but a thermally conductive substance. > Most components mounted on a heat sink either use the heat > sink as a thermal dissapation device, or, if the heat sink > is part of the circuit (in the case of much larger > electronic devices sometimes), the part is bolted to the > heat sink to ensure a reliable electronic connection as well > as thermal conductivity. > My only worry would be that are heat sink compount always going to provide insulation? Or are some conductive enough to cause problems? At least the dielectrics are supposed to be insulators. I always assumed that heat sink compound was supposed to conduct heat, and anything else it happened to do besides that really depended on what was in the heat sink compound. It would make me believe it may even depend on the brand how it performed as a insulator. Roger ------------------------------ From: "Robert W. Hughes" Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 17:08:21 -0600 Subject: re:Heat sink compound vs. dialectic > Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! Heat sink compound is a silicone and a dielectric. It is intended to fill the voids between two flat pieces of metal. It has a lower heat transmissivity than direct metal-metal but much better than metal-air-metal so proper usage is a very thin film so as to fill the voids with minimal metal-metal separation. Being a dielectric, it is a non-conductor of electricity which is not the same thing as heat. - -- Robert W. Hughes (Bob) BackYard Engineering Houston, Texas rwhughe@xxx.org ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 18:12:29 +0000 Subject: Re: Injector Duty Monitor If you want a PC-DOS meter, you can hook into the game, rs232 or printer inputs. This can give you .xxx837 ms resolution. If interest I could write a quick free ware. You would need some type of buffered input. There is a free working logic analyzer for printer port at http://www.comnet.ca/~logixell/Demo.htm The $99 Rad Shack recording digital scope probe is also handy. alex > IF your doing anything serious ya need pulse width, with at least 20.x > millisecond > maybe higher (more that 20), and a resolution of at least .x millisecond. > I'd perfer > .xx, with possibly an adjustment for dampening the flickering of numbers. > Reading with a dwell meter is OK, and 1000x better than nothing but that's > about it. > Bruce > ------------------------------ From: trinity@xxx.net (Mike) Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 18:22:06 -0500 Subject: Re: 93 Z28 Disassembly - Found TPS voltage limits & default value A quick correction I just noticed while reading my own post: > >As far as I can tell, the approximate (ignoring rounding) translation of the >code between F46F and F48A is: > > % = (CurrentAD - "ClosedAD") * 111 * 4 / 256 > >or > > % = (CurrentAD - "ClosedAD") / 1.73 This should read "% = (CurrentAD - "ClosedAD") * 1.73" > >where '%' ranges from 00h (0%) to FFh (100%). > >If the "closed" TPS is, say, 30h counts (0.94V), the 100% TPS reading should >appear at about: > > 255 = Delta / 1.73 This should read "255 = Delta * 1.73" > Delta ~= 147 counts > >30h + 93h == C3h or about 3.82V > I think the rest is okay. Sorry for the confusion. - -- Mike ------------------------------ From: "Ross Myers" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:03:55 +1100 Subject: Re: Uh-Oh, PICs >rauscher@xxx.com wrote: >> Sorry 'bout that, it was probably me that started refering to it as a >> 'PIC'. If I may ask, what does PIC stand for? (Peripheral Interface >> Controller?). And what is the difference between them and a u-controller? >> (You can get technical, I can take it!) > >Just about everything you want to know is at http://www.microchip.com - >a PIC is a RISC based microcontroller. Gotta get me some of that... ;) >Looks like a lot of fun! Available with EEPROM or OTP, in lots of >flavors. Digikey sells 'em pretty cheap too... > >-Andrew > VERY popular now thanks to the Playstation world & ahhhh 'backup copies!! of games' Ross Myers ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 18:54:00 -0500 Subject: RE: Heat sink compound I can't really do better than those that have already described differences between heat sink compounds and dielectric grease. You can get dielectric grease at NAPA for about $5 USD. Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: Frederic Breitwieser [SMTP:frederic.breitwieser@xxx.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 3:49 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Heat sink compound > > >A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink > >compound stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged > >the statement and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to > >insure good connections. > >Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! > > Most heat sink compounds are diaelectrics, which is an > electronic insulator, but a thermally conductive substance. > Most components mounted on a heat sink either use the heat > sink as a thermal dissapation device, or, if the heat sink > is part of the circuit (in the case of much larger > electronic devices sometimes), the part is bolted to the > heat sink to ensure a reliable electronic connection as well > as thermal conductivity. > > While in college, I worked for a small manufacturing company > in NJ, where I had the opportunity to assemble electronic > motor brakes. The devices varying in size from a 120V 5A > capacity up to a 660V 120A capacity often relied on the heat > sinks (which were 1/4" aluminum "C" channel about 2' long, > 8" wide, and 2" high on the larger models) as a primary > conductor. What I found "interesting" is they were using 0 > guage cable, yet holding the parts to the heat sinks with > severely undersized screws, which are severely narrower than > the wires they crimped and bolted to the heat sinks. The > point of the story is they apparently had the same > impression as your autozone friend, that the heat sink > compound conducts electricity - the larger devices this > company just attempted to introduce into the market kept > failing due to the limited current capacity of the small > mounting screws between the part and the heat sink - since > the compound doesn't conduct electricity very well. > > Aside from the "goo" type of heat sink compounds, there are > a few other choices. THere are these little mica washers > typically used over the years underneath TO-3 transister > cases, acting as an insulator for electricity, but a > reasonable conductor of heat. Not as good as the compounds, > but they are easier to work with. Some manufacturers have > had problems with human-assembled products because some > products receive more heat-sink compound than others, and > depending on how far to the limits the unit was designed, > "Pop" goes the unit. Radio Shack experienced this with > their home receivers back in the late 70's for a brief > period. ------------------------------ From: Barry Tisdale Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 13:20:29 -0500 Subject: Re: Water Injection Thread & CorvEight Also learned lots about Ackerman geometry in the steering, transmission linkages, defrosters, wind up windows, airflow thru radiators (put mine in the rear) also. Fun. Barry At 10:52 AM 1/9/99 EST, you wrote: >I also had a Valkyrie, with stout 327. Learned a lot about brake balance, >spring rates, etc., sometimes very suddenly. ------------------------------ From: John Andrianakis Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 18:39:23 +0200 Subject: Re: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 Bruce Plecan wrote: > > Would anyone happen to know of an application, or part number > for a Bosch wide ratio O2 sensor. > Other than NGK (NGT), and Bosch anyone know of any others?. > Not leaded resistant like the LSM-11, wide ratio. > Thanks in advance > Bruce I found a bosch part number somewhere in my notes for wide ratio O2 sensor but I am not sure if it is the lsm-11 or not. part nu:0258 002. You could also contact Ole Buhl Racing at www.obr.dk, they make some very high spec ecus that can be self mapped with wide ratio O2 sensors. They also have a box that drives the sensor and gives a voltage output to be interfaced with the ecu or an instrument. I dont know which make sensors they use. There is also one company that I came up browsing wich makes the ceramic elements for wide ratio O2 sensors(not ngk/ntk). If you do a search with keywords:ceramic,uego,manufacturer,wide band,oxygen,sensor etc. you probably will find them. Why are you searching for another sensor?(just a little curious) Do you know the SAE paper number for the NTK uego sensor? Thanks in advance. John Andrianakis. ------------------------------ From: db@xxx.au (Darryn Watson) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 02:44:29 GMT Subject: Re: Aussie GM 3.8 V6 coil packs On Sat, 14 Nov 1998 12:34:08 +0800, you wrote: >Hi All >just a short question for the Aussie list members out there, I've started to get my feet wet with the EFI 332 project and was wondering if any one out there could shed some light on the triple coil packs used in these engines. > >What I would like to know is >Is it possible to utilise only two of the three coils in this unit?? > >The reason for my question is that I would like to use one on a 4 cylinder engine, I would also then have a spare coil pack for a backup. Thanks very much every one I will find one way around it!!! I'll probabaly go hunting the wrecking yards for either of the GM ones Darryn ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 22:17:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 - -----Original Message----- From: John Andrianakis To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 9:58 PM Subject: Re: Wide Ratio Bosch O2 >Bruce Plecan wrote: >> >> Would anyone happen to know of an application, or part number >> for a Bosch wide ratio O2 sensor. >> Other than NGK (NGT), and Bosch anyone know of any others?. >> Not leaded resistant like the LSM-11, wide ratio. >> Thanks in advance >> Bruce >I found a bosch part number somewhere in my notes for wide ratio O2 >sensor but I am not sure if it is the lsm-11 or not. part nu:0258 002. >You could also contact Ole Buhl Racing at www.obr.dk, they make some >very high spec ecus that can be self mapped with wide ratio O2 sensors. >They also have a box that drives the sensor and gives a voltage output >to be interfaced with the ecu or an instrument. I dont know which make >sensors they use. >There is also one company that I came up browsing wich makes the ceramic >elements for wide ratio O2 sensors(not ngk/ntk). If you do a search with >keywords:ceramic,uego,manufacturer,wide band,oxygen,sensor etc. you >probably will find them. >Why are you searching for another sensor?(just a little curious) Heard a rumor, and want to investigate. Being a rumor, I'm not comfortable quoting it. >Do you know the SAE paper number for the NTK uego sensor? I think you want the 920234 >Thanks in advance. >John Andrianakis. > > ------------------------------ From: Eric Schumacher Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 18:21:53 -0800 Subject: RE: Heat sink compound Hi Dielectric grease is a silicone compound manufactured by Dow Corning. Thirty or fourty years ago it was used to promote heat transfer between semiconductors and heat sinks. Heat sink compound is often the same grease loaded with alumina or some such thermally conductive oxide. Niether are electricaly conductive but dielectric grease is eaisly displaced. Dielectric grease is excellent for use on electrical connections thay may get damp as it is very impervious to water. Heat sink compund, since it is loaded with ceramic should never be used in these applications. If you really want high conductivity both heat and electrical, silver loaded dielectric grease is available, electricians use it between bus bars when they bolt two together. Lotsa Luck Eric 85 GTI with VR6 Power ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:34:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Electronic timing advance - -----Original Message----- From: HADJIASLANIS ARIS 1260 800 To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 5:29 PM Subject: Electronic timing advance >Matt, Bruce & Robert thank you very much. I will use your interesting >inputs to begin assembling a viable solution to my DINO engine problem. >I guess I will start looking for the web sites of Allison, Crane >Camshafts, Holley & MSD. > >Bruce, can you pls provide info about the Australian DIY kits you >mention in your reply. Company names as I recall were Jaycar, and Dick Smith Electronics. I thought I had more info at hand, but had a HDD crash and lost more than I thought. May also, be a Mark Williams Electronics, maybe some from au has a fresher memory of them or their sites. Bruce Concerning the diy_efi web page and project >332EFI, I am aware of it but at this instant I have too litlle time to >get involved so deeply! > >Regards > >Aris > ---------- >From: Matt Beaubien >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Electronic timing advance >Date: 08 January 1999 23:28 > >Bruce, > >> >The requirements are relatively simple: >> >1. Replace the existing twin contact breakers with an optical pick up >> >arranged to fire every 60 degrees. >> >> Crane Camshafts in Florida, USA, makes a universal optical ignition. >> >> >2. Disable the original advance / retard mechanism. >> >3. Feed the optical pick up output to a digital advance / retard unit >> >implementing a simple, programmable advance curve capable of at least >16 >> >sites. >> >> Commercially MSD, Holley make said units, kits are available from >> Australia, for a DIY. Use the optics to trigger a oem ecm, and just >> use the ignition part of that. If you want to do a total DIY visit >332EFI, >> you can get there off the diy_efi home page. > >The Accel 49340 (IIRC) allows what the orginal poster is looking for. It >has adjustable vacuum/boost advance/retard as well as a N20 input. It >may >require a magnetic reluctor-type signal to function though. > >I don't think MSD makes something similar (you can only adjust the slope >and max advance as far as I know), and I'm not too familiar with the >Holley stuff. The Accel piece is ~$150-$200. > >Hope that helps. > >Matt. > > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:47:25 -0500 Subject: 2 Bar MAP V-8 To run the 2 bar (v-8) conversion (in a 1227730 ecm), this is what I've found to be true (or should I say, is a summary, of what other knowledgable folks shared with me): Use the normal 730 memcal, since it has the right knock filtering, limp home calibrations. The syty calibration is 128K long, where the 730 F-Body cal is 256K long, you have to fill the first half of the prom with zeros. (Be sure you have the matching knock sensor). One BCC that fits this discription is the AUJP. Since the PID is 1/2 as long, there might be a slightly rougher idle, ie similiar to the 86-89 calibrations that are 128K long. The last sentence is for the EE types. Cylinder select at 0009 needs changed to 00. If your running a speedometer cable VSS then use C-6 for the VSS input. If running a magnetic impulse (stock 90-92) then use B-9, and B-10, and change 0334 from 2D to 6D. Move the TCC from F-6 to F-4. If running Diacom a vin# 1GDCT14ZOM 0000000 will allow you to monitor the ecm. The rest of the pinouts seem to be the same. I didn't worry about the air management valves, but the rad fan pin is the same, as well as the EGR control. It's your responsibility to check the legality of such modifications, if you want to use this information on a street vehicle, this is for educational, and off road use. I'm not an elec engineer or software expert, and the above appears to be true in extensive bench testing. Cheers Bruce ------------------------------ From: cosmic.ray@xxx.com (Raymond C Drouillard) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 00:13:52 -0500 Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) On Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:02:03 -0700 bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) writes: >Saw an ad in a pals copy of "Vintage Views", a vintage motorcycle racing >as'sn. newsletter. It is some sort of a proprietary carbide conversion >which they do to the surface of the cast iron. They mention thermal and >friction advantages as well as "incredible" bore life. > >Regards, Greg Getting rings to seat must be "incredible", too :) Would you use cast iron, chrome, or molybdenum rings with a carbide bore? Ray Drouillard ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: cosmic.ray@xxx.com (Raymond C Drouillard) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:59:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound vs. dialectic Stick two probes of an ohmmeter into a glob of the stuff and find out :) I believe that it is, but I always use insulation when mounting a component that needs to be insulated from the heat sink. Ray On Sat, 09 Jan 1999 12:55:54 -0600 Clarence Wood writes: > A salesperson at AutoZone tried to sell me some heat sink compound >stating that it was a dialectic. Of course I challenged the statement >and he told me that he had used heat sink compound to insure good >connections. > Is heat sink compound a dialectic? Curious minds want to know! > > >IZCC #3426 > 1982 280ZX Turbo GL > 1966 El Camino > 1982 Yamaha Maxim XJ-1101J Motorcycle > 1975 Honda CB750 SS (black engine) > 1986 Snapper Comet lawn mower >Clarence Wood >Software&Such... >clarencewood@xxx.net >Savannah, TN. > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:59:08 -0500 Subject: AUJP C/L+Learn enables On the AUJP, the Closed Loop, and Learn Temp enables appear to be at 0350, and 0489. The stock temps of 45dC work out to be 71h. Cheers Bruce ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #24 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".