DIY_EFI Digest Monday, 11 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 028 In this issue: IGNORE TEST MESSAGE Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) Re: Photo Radar Re: Fp regulator mods RE: Motronic Interface ? Re: Heat sink compound Re: NON GROUP Re: Fp regulator mods Re: Fp regulator mods Re: Heat sink compound Re: Stepper Motors Re: Stepper Motors Re: Heat sink compound RE: Stepper Motors RE: Fp regulator mods Re: Heat sink compound Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) Re: Photo Radar RE: Fp regulator mods Re: Fp regulator mods Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) Re: Fp regulator mods Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) air/fuel gauge RE: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Dennis J Fagundo Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:35:35 -0400 (AST) Subject: IGNORE TEST MESSAGE Testing ________________________________________________ Dennis Fagundo fagunddj@xxx.ca dfagundo@xxx.bm http://is2.dal.ca/~fagunddj Technical University of Nova Scotia _______________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:44:07 -0700 Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) >In a message dated 1/10/99 1:24:00 PM Pacific Standard Time, bearbvd@xxx.net >writes: > ><< Not really so when dealing with an 8 u inch polished finish. If the bores > are the same diameter (within a couple of ten thousandths, and all > straight, no prob. I thought about lapping each set of rings to its own > hole, but decided that the extra block clean-up was a nightmare (not to > mention stray lapping compound) waiting to happen. (Lapping compound in > this case would be more like jewelers' rouge than what you are used to > thinking of for lapping valves. WAY finer.) Lots of serious HP boat motors > are pre-seated this way. It works. Also saves a LOT of break in debris from > floating around insside the engine. > > Regards, Greg >> >You might try using your cylinder sleeve with a bit of Diamond Lapping >Compound. We used to use it on solid laps for very fine finishing on aluminum >and andodized surfaces for Hydraulic actuators. These were lapped for finish >and size and fitted with 0.0001-0.0002 slip fits. you might think about making >air cylinder operated vertical lap if you want to get it done quickly, also no >side load on the pistons that way. >Fred Hey---nice suggestion. Thanks, Fred. I was thinking of just using a spring or some other sort of a flexible connection to the ring holder, but lazier is always better!!! Where to find the diamond lapping compound?? Is there a variety of grit sizes?? If so which is best?? Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: Pat Ford Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:52:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Photo Radar On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Greg Hermann wrote: > Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:03:36 -0700 > From: Greg Hermann > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Photo Radar > > > > > >in the Ottawa Can. area it seems that if you didn't make the cop drop his > >doughnut he wont bother you > > > >> > In Colorado, if he spills his coffee, it's an equal number of points--go > straight to jail if he does both! > > Greg > I thought in the 'States the cops could shoot you for that 8*)) Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ From: "Mike Pitts" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:14:04 -0500 Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods >might be easier to just vent the manifold side of the existing >one to atmosphere, and add a second, bigger one with >manifold pressure on one side and atm. Greg, I didn't pay this much attention at first, because it seemed beyond my capabilities. Mostly because manufacturing a diaphram with the spring seat, etc would be impossible for me. But the more I think about it, the more I like the idea. Maybe I can find an existing larger diaphram from a larger regulator, or and EGR valve, or a A/C vent mechanism, or cruise control, etc. (Any other ideas?) I would need one with a diameter of ~2" to achieve the desired rising rate. Connecting the new top to the old bottom will be tricky part. After my post last night about adding a larger diameter pipe to the outlet side of the reg., it later occured to me that it may not work either since, once the diaphram lifts to relieve pressure, the entire underside of the diaphram will be exposed to the fuel pressure. Anyone have a cheap milling lathe for sale? 8-) Thanks, - -Mike ========================================== Mike Pitts Delray Beach, FL mpitts@xxx.net ========================================== ------------------------------ From: Putter C Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:39:38 +0200 Subject: RE: Motronic Interface ? This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE3D70.37EBD190 Content-Type: text/plain I am thinking the same way. On the wiring schematic of the car, there are 2 lines from the ECU to this conector (RX&TX or Signal&Gnd ?). I'll keep you informed on my findings. Cheers Carlo > -----Original Message----- > From: xxalexx@xxx.com] > Sent: Saturday, January 09, 1999 7:51 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Motronic Interface ? > > > Has anybody got an idea which protocal is ussed byt the bosch motronic > > 1.5/2.5 ECUs? > > The diagnostics port on my car looks nearly like the ALDL ports and not > like > > OBD-II. > > > > What is the equivalent to to Vauxhaul Astra (UK) {OPEL Astra (RSA)} in > the > > rest of the > > world, maybe somebody has go some info on the computer, but published it > > under another > > name ? > > > ISO-9141? > alex - ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE3D70.37EBD190 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IikOAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQWAAwAOAAAAzwcBAAsAEAAnACYAAQBAAQEggAMADgAAAM8HAQAL ABAAJwAnAAEAQQEBCYABACEAAABDMzhDOUREN0M0OTlEMjExODY5NjAwQTBDOTAxOTUxMQAFBwEE gAEAGQAAAFJFOiBNb3Ryb25pYyBJbnRlcmZhY2UgPwBMCAENgAQAAgAAAAIAAgABA5AGAKgIAAAu AAAAAwA2AAAAAAADAAWACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAABShQAAtw0AAB4AGIAIIAYAAAAAAMAA AAAAAABGAAAAAFSFAAABAAAABAAAADguMAADABGACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAABhQAAAAAA AAsAAIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAOFAAAAAAAACwAcgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAA DoUAAAAAAAADAAKACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAQhQAAAAAAAAMACIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAA AABGAAAAABGFAAAAAAAAAwAegAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAGIUAAAAAAAAeAC2ACCAGAAAA AADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA2hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgAugAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAN4UA AAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AL4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADiFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAACAQkQ AQAAAIEDAAB9AwAAxgQAAExaRnV9L71wAwAKAHJjcGcxMjV2MgD0AfcgAqQD4wIAY4JoCsBzZXQw IAcThwKDAFAPtnBycTIQtmZ9CoAIyCA7CW8OMDWzAoAKgXVjAFALA2MAQUULYG4OEDAzMwumIIBJ IGFtIHRoC4CKawuAZxdhZSBzF0BhGCB3YXkuCqIKgE//A6AYAgPwBRAX0QTwGBAAwKJ0DeAgb2YX 82MKwL4sF/IJcBcwG6ESMGwLgEcHkQNSF/NFQ1UXYG9vF2IEIAWgHFBjHWAFwCjAUlgmVFggHtAF sSEe0FNpZ24HQCZHIG5kID8pGMVJJ4psAyBrCeBwIHkIYHYgC4ACEHIHgB/gAiAgrG15HIALgGQX wXMYxf5DGBAEkBAAIwQKwAkAGNTzCvQcMDM2AUAV0AFAEgAMb3QeERFEMTYgLfUmwk8FEGcLgAdA BdAHkPkYQGdlJsMkZiXUJaELE8El1mktMTQ0AUAcMDgxODABQAzQKmNiICpGA2E6DINiEKB4eIUH QGUsgEBpeC4cUBJ0BaBtLi1hIFtTsE1UUDosjy2SXSRlXyuQBmACMCv3BhB0CHBkaxigG1BKAHB1 CsAiQDASORtQMTkycCA3OiA1MSBQTS+nVG+TK/cikHlfARBpQDShiRZwMi4J8GcubxeAuG8tcwGQ JfA1QGQMcDEvt3Viah4RK/dSZb46BdAl4ANgAwAakEkCMO0EkGYA0BggPyhvKXolJMMLthjjPiBI YQQgAHDqeQbgZCJAZyXgPNEhYF0BAGEYgBeAEDAgJcJvNxsgAyAdsXUEECHRYnl/BUAYAgbgGhEi IDhVPCYxqC41LzUwNR0Sczl13TyAVBgRIpAn4G5AMBpxPQQgcAkRIfUbIRwgb2/+awQgHFAkISJA HDAg4Bfz8EFMRExDwzzCH+BDUAcFQEWSPCZPQkQtSe5JGMU8gDwmVxBABUAdscEYAmVxdWl2LmEC MEMdUx1wVmF1eBBAdRUDIEE14HI+AChVS8IpAzB7T1BFRlBL5cBSU0EpXH0hYRfyXzwmCXA14Bql PCZ3BbBsvmQbUADAPQAYIQNwZT0T/xBABCA9YFCzIWMh8hrjA3DscHU48RtQYlMQPnA3EG0cMHMY EB/gaSYgPDV1/x/QBJA80SXgG4E8Jh+AGGFDQkcgNVNPLTkqYDEvOXUuYhjUEsEAWVAAAAADACYA AAAAAAMALgAAAAAACwACAAEAAAAeAHAAAQAAABkAAABSRTogTW90cm9uaWMgSW50ZXJmYWNlID8A AAAAAgFxAAEAAAAWAAAAAb49cjF21H+JWaYuEdK+SAAA6C4RGgAAQAA5ABDxTzdwPb4BAwDxPwkE AAAeADFAAQAAAAcAAABDQVJMT1AAAAMAGkAAAAAAHgAwQAEAAAAHAAAAQ0FSTE9QAAADABlAAAAA AAMA/T/kBAAAAwCAEP////8CAUcAAQAAACoAAABjPVpBO2E9IDtwPVN1bjtsPUlOR1dFQi05OTAx MTExNDM5MzhaLTI5OQAAAAIB+T8BAAAASwAAAAAAAADcp0DIwEIQGrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAv Tz1TVU4vT1U9SU5HL0NOPVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049VVNFUlMvQ049Q0FSTE9QAAAeAPg/AQAAAAkA AABQdXR0ZXIgQwAAAAAeADhAAQAAAAcAAABDQVJMT1AAAAIB+z8BAAAASwAAAAAAAADcp0DIwEIQ GrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAvTz1TVU4vT1U9SU5HL0NOPVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049VVNFUlMvQ049 Q0FSTE9QAAAeAPo/AQAAAAkAAABQdXR0ZXIgQwAAAAAeADlAAQAAAAcAAABDQVJMT1AAAEAABzBQ JeXybz2+AUAACDCQ0es3cD2+AR4APQABAAAABQAAAFJFOiAAAAAAHgAdDgEAAAAVAAAATW90cm9u aWMgSW50ZXJmYWNlID8AAAAAHgA1EAEAAAA+AAAAPDcxMTg3ODAwODVGOEQxMTE4NjcyMDBBMEM5 MDE5NTExMEFFNjlDQGluZ3dlYi5pbmcuc3VuLmFjLnphPgAAAAsAKQAAAAAACwAjAAAAAAADAAYQ OYYCMQMABxBjAgAAAwAQEAAAAAADABEQAAAAAB4ACBABAAAAZQAAAElBTVRISU5LSU5HVEhFU0FN RVdBWU9OVEhFV0lSSU5HU0NIRU1BVElDT0ZUSEVDQVIsVEhFUkVBUkUyTElORVNGUk9NVEhFRUNV VE9USElTQ09ORUNUT1IoUlgmVFhPUlNJR04AAAAAAgF/AAEAAAA+AAAAPDcxMTg3ODAwODVGOEQx MTE4NjcyMDBBMEM5MDE5NTExMEFFNjlDQGluZ3dlYi5pbmcuc3VuLmFjLnphPgAAAHrq - ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE3D70.37EBD190-- ------------------------------ From: "Randy" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:50:59 -0400 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound The positive diode pack is stacked on top of the negative diode pack and the whole thing is screwed down to the case with three screws, all of which have plastic insulators on them, obviously needed since the screws pass through both diode sets. The neg side is to conduct to the case just by clamping pressure to the case but this is through a layer of HSC. Maybe Delco used a conductive HSC, but the factory stuff is the same white looking stuff I've always seen. Negative diode failures are the most common cause of death for these alt's. There is a new aftermarket design out, summit sells it, called the "iceberg" It has fins on the rear case where the diodes mount. I think my extra screw or conductive HSC , if I could find that, is the way to go. 105A is a lot of current to push through a resistive connection. > > Also , how is the negative diode in your alternator connected to ground? I > understand that you have no screws to ground it , except the 8-32 that you > have added. I am certain that Delco intended to provide a GOOD connection > between the negative diodes and ground --- in a negative ground alternator. > > Or -- Have I misunderstood something here?? > > Jerry > Randy Braun rbraun@xxx.net 30th Ann. T/A coming soon.... 91 GTA for sale 82 Firebird ------------------------------ From: "eric and lisa" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:05:14 -0500 Subject: Re: NON GROUP Try Classic Motorbooks 1-800-826-6600. They have gobs of cool books on anything automotive, and I mean anything. They used to have a book on how to set up your shop. I would give you the title, but I dont have a catalogue at the moment. Eric - ---------- > From: Martin Powlette > To: diy_efi@xxx.com > Subject: NON GROUP > Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 8:50 PM > > I am looking for a consultant on Auto Shop Layout/Set-up and design. I > know most of you guys have something to offer so please do. Things seem > to be working up for the new shop. Anyone with info on tools, websites, > books or finger pointers etc etc please advice. > > Martin > ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:02:51 -0500 Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods Later gm cruise control diaphragm is maybe 2 1/2". Like the type found on (guessing)89/90 astro van. Shannen diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: > > >might be easier to just vent the manifold side of the existing > >one to atmosphere, and add a second, bigger one with > >manifold pressure on one side and atm. > > Greg, > > I didn't pay this much attention at first, because it seemed > beyond my capabilities. Mostly because manufacturing a > diaphram with the spring seat, etc would be impossible for > me. But the more I think about it, the more I like the idea. > > Maybe I can find an existing larger diaphram from a larger > regulator, or and EGR valve, or a A/C vent mechanism, or > cruise control, etc. (Any other ideas?) I would need one with > a diameter of ~2" to achieve the desired rising rate. > > Connecting the new top to the old bottom will be tricky part. > > After my post last night about adding a larger diameter pipe > to the outlet side of the reg., it later occured to me that it may > not work either since, once the diaphram lifts to relieve pressure, > the entire underside of the diaphram will be exposed to the fuel > pressure. > > Anyone have a cheap milling lathe for sale? 8-) > > Thanks, > -Mike > ========================================== > Mike Pitts > Delray Beach, FL > mpitts@xxx.net > ========================================== ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:07:08 -0600 Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods Mike, I don't know what your budget is for this project but I have, on occasion had to make modifications under budget restraints. In every case, I had to re-due the work because the material I had to work with could not handle the load. I would like to recommend an alternative: Mallory has a return type BDFPR (Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator) made out of billet aluminum for $69.95 (JEGS part # 650-4309). The unit will still work if your engine is not a turbo. It uses 4 set screws to hold the diaphragm and it is adjustable. You could modify this unit, successfully, without the worry of material failure. Remember that you are dealing with fuel: a sudden leak can cause tremendous damage! This Mallory unit is the cheapest one that I have found that has the ability to be modified. It is a three port unit (actually it has 4 port openings but is called a 3 port). It comes with an assortment of springs: 3-12 psi, 10-40 psi, 35-65 psi. The vacuum index decreases ! ! about 1 psi for every 2 inches Hg; the boost index increases 1 psi for every 1 psi of boost. Now, with this unit you could easily install two diaphragms. You could reduce the area of one by using two large washers, one on top and one on the bottom of the diaphragm, that extended into the chamber restricting the area of the diaphragm (washers with a smaller inside diameter than the original unit) and to hold the original diaphragm. Drill the holes and get longer set screws. By ordering a replacement diaphragm you could connect it to the first diaphragm, and by inserting a spacer, after drilling a hole to vent to the atmosphere, you would have the unit that Greg described. The spacer would have to be made but could be done with non specialized tools. I have one and am going to increase the boost index to 6:1 via the method described above. Oh, THANKS GREG, for telling me how it has to be done! At 09:14 AM 1/11/99 -0500, you wrote: >>might be easier to just vent the manifold side of the existing >>one to atmosphere, and add a second, bigger one with >>manifold pressure on one side and atm. > >Greg, > >I didn't pay this much attention at first, because it seemed >beyond my capabilities. Mostly because manufacturing a >diaphram with the spring seat, etc would be impossible for >me. But the more I think about it, the more I like the idea. > >Maybe I can find an existing larger diaphram from a larger >regulator, or and EGR valve, or a A/C vent mechanism, or >cruise control, etc. (Any other ideas?) I would need one with >a diameter of ~2" to achieve the desired rising rate. > >Connecting the new top to the old bottom will be tricky part. > >After my post last night about adding a larger diameter pipe >to the outlet side of the reg., it later occured to me that it may >not work either since, once the diaphram lifts to relieve pressure, >the entire underside of the diaphram will be exposed to the fuel >pressure. > >Anyone have a cheap milling lathe for sale? 8-) > >Thanks, >-Mike >========================================== >Mike Pitts >Delray Beach, FL >mpitts@xxx.net >========================================== > > > ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:11:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: > > The positive diode pack is stacked on top of the negative diode > pack and the whole thing is screwed down to the case with three > screws, all of which have plastic insulators on them, obviously > needed since the screws pass through both diode sets. The neg > side is to conduct to the case just by clamping pressure to the > case but this is through a layer of HSC. Maybe Delco used a > conductive HSC, but the factory stuff is the same white looking > stuff I've always seen. > > Negative diode failures are the most common cause of death for > these alt's. There is a new aftermarket design out, summit sells it, > called the "iceberg" It has fins on the rear case where the diodes > mount. I think my extra screw or conductive HSC , if I could find > that, is the way to go. 105A is a lot of current to push through a > resistive connection. > I've seen many, many more mechanical failures in these than electrical. Mainly, the front bearing. Maybe the area you're in has to do with the type of failures you see. Shannen > > > > Also , how is the negative diode in your alternator connected to ground? I > > understand that you have no screws to ground it , except the 8-32 that you > > have added. I am certain that Delco intended to provide a GOOD connection > > between the negative diodes and ground --- in a negative ground alternator. > > > > Or -- Have I misunderstood something here?? > > > > Jerry > > > > Randy Braun rbraun@xxx.net > 30th Ann. T/A coming soon.... > 91 GTA for sale > 82 Firebird ------------------------------ From: steve ravet Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:17:10 -0600 Subject: Re: Stepper Motors Not sure how big you need, but older hard drives and floppies (early 80's, think 8 inch floppies and full height 360K 5" floppies) had steppers quite a bit larger than todays drives do. If you need bigger than that, there was an article in radio electronics a few years ago about turning an alternator into a stepper. - --steve Robert Harris wrote: > > Any clues for sources of inexpensive 12VDC small stepper motors ( but bigger > than those used in hard drives). I think I may have a need if they are > reasonable in power, speed and price. > > Thanks. > > The Luddites were RIGHT!! > > Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore ------------------------------ From: "Andrew K. Mattei" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:16:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Stepper Motors Well, heck, I might as well throw in a comment too ;) How big and how many do you need? I've always saved steppers from my junk stuff, and have just a few steppers. I know I have 'em from old floppies, printers, plotters, etc. Whaddya need, and I'll see what's in the old boxes. Haven't opened 'em in a while... Heck, might even have some DEC motors from RL-02's, RX01's, etc. layin' around... Andrew "The E-stuff Pack Rat" M And my wife tells me I'd never have a use for this stuff... :P > Robert Harris wrote: > > > > Any clues for sources of inexpensive 12VDC small stepper motors ( but bigger > > than those used in hard drives). I think I may have a need if they are > > reasonable in power, speed and price. > > > > Thanks. > > > > The Luddites were RIGHT!! > > > > Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore ------------------------------ From: thergen@xxx.net Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:24:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Heat sink compound I had both the bearing and later the diode failure mode on my alternator. Does anyone have a source for those wrap around clamps needed on the CS130 alternators for retaining the replacement bearing after punching out the old front bearing? I think JC Whitney also carries the "iceberg" case. Thanks, Tom On Mon, 11 Jan 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > > Negative diode failures are the most common cause of death for > > these alt's. There is a new aftermarket design out, summit sells it, > > called the "iceberg" It has fins on the rear case where the diodes > > mount. I think my extra screw or conductive HSC , if I could find > > that, is the way to go. 105A is a lot of current to push through a > > resistive connection. > > > > I've seen many, many more mechanical failures in these than > electrical. Mainly, the front bearing. Maybe the area you're in has > to do with the type of failures you see. > Shannen > ------------------------------ From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:40:47 -0600 Subject: RE: Stepper Motors The article in Radio electronics by Don Lancaster talked about the feasibility of an alternator as a stepper but he concluded the the step angle would be to great for practical uses. Most steppers are 1.8 deg between steps. The alternator would be in excess of 30 degrees if I remember right. I want to try an alternator as a brushless motor using 6 transistors to commutate the windings. I have found lazer Printers and plotters a good source for high torque steppers. Copy machines might have the stepper you need also. If you have a bi-polar stepper (4 wires) you can experiment with a IAC driver delco 23266 and some external power transistors. Unipolar steppers (6 wires) are easier to drive and many circuits are on the web if your search for stepper motor. Don > -----Original Message----- > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@xxx.com] > Sent: Monday, January 11, 1999 11:17 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Stepper Motors > > Not sure how big you need, but older hard drives and floppies (early > 80's, think 8 inch floppies and full height 360K 5" floppies) had > steppers quite a bit larger than todays drives do. > > If you need bigger than that, there was an article in radio electronics > a few years ago about turning an alternator into a stepper. > > --steve > > Robert Harris wrote: > > > > Any clues for sources of inexpensive 12VDC small stepper motors ( but > bigger > > than those used in hard drives). I think I may have a need if they are > > reasonable in power, speed and price. > > > > Thanks. > > > > The Luddites were RIGHT!! > > > > Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore ------------------------------ From: Mike Pitts Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:00:17 -0500 Subject: RE: Fp regulator mods Budget isn't really a concern. I could just go buy an FMU if I wanted to. But I like doing things myself when possible, I enjoy the challenge. I'm not too concerned about spilling fuel either. I wouldn't do anything that would risk a failure like that. When you say 6:1, does that mean you are increasing the FP by 6 PSI for every 1 PSI of boost? That seems like way too much. I run 24 PSI at the track, that would be nearly 150 PSI increase in fuel pressure! Thanks, - -Mike - -----Original Message----- From: Clarence Wood Sent: Monday, January 11, 1999 1:19 PM Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods >>I have one and am going to increase the boost index to 6:1 >>via the method described above. ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:25:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Heat sink compound Former local auto parts store sold rebuild kits which had the clamp. Think they were "quick start" kits which are also sold through JC whitney. Shannen diy_efi@xxx.edu wrote: > > I had both the bearing and later the diode failure mode on my alternator. > > Does anyone have a source for those wrap around clamps needed on the CS130 > alternators for retaining the replacement bearing after punching out > the old front bearing? > > I think JC Whitney also carries the "iceberg" case. > > Thanks, > Tom > > On Mon, 11 Jan 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > > > Negative diode failures are the most common cause of death for > > > these alt's. There is a new aftermarket design out, summit sells it, > > > called the "iceberg" It has fins on the rear case where the diodes > > > mount. I think my extra screw or conductive HSC , if I could find > > > that, is the way to go. 105A is a lot of current to push through a > > > resistive connection. > > > > > > > I've seen many, many more mechanical failures in these than > > electrical. Mainly, the front bearing. Maybe the area you're in has > > to do with the type of failures you see. > > Shannen > > ------------------------------ From: FHPREMACH@xxx.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:35:53 EST Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) In a message dated 1/11/99 6:53:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, bearbvd@xxx.net writes: << Hey---nice suggestion. Thanks, Fred. I was thinking of just using a spring or some other sort of a flexible connection to the ring holder, but lazier is always better!!! Where to find the diamond lapping compound?? Is there a variety of grit sizes?? If so which is best?? Regards, Greg >> Thanks, glad you liked the idea. Thought a bit of work and a couple of sensors on the air cylinder, you could make the lap programmable. You can get diamond lapping compound from most industrial supplies. Enco Manufacturing has it 5 ml syringes with a soluble carrier for less than USD 10.00 per tube. Finest is 0-2 micron, coarsest is 36-54 micron. Everyone on the list should get an Enco catalog. It is the Sears of machinery both small and large. Enco Manufacturing 5000 W. Bloomingdale Chicago, IL 60639 1-800-use-enco 1-800-873-3626 On a similar note, there is a Nikasil facility somewhere in the states now. they can coat cylinders with a Nickel Silicon coating by the explosion of a filament wire. It has been used on Linerless cylinders from Porsche and a number of small bore motocross bikes. Wish we had it when the Vegas were around. Similar to Bore Tech in that you finish to size, and then coat. Works fantastic as long as long you filter the air and oil. Good place for an Oberg type filter. Wish you luck on the experiment. Keep us posted. Fred ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:46:44 -0700 Subject: Re: Photo Radar >On Fri, 8 Jan 1999, Greg Hermann wrote: > >> Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:03:36 -0700 >> From: Greg Hermann >> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >> Subject: Re: Photo Radar >> >> >> > >> >in the Ottawa Can. area it seems that if you didn't make the cop drop his >> >doughnut he wont bother you >> > >> >> >> In Colorado, if he spills his coffee, it's an equal number of points--go >> straight to jail if he does both! >> >> Greg >> > I thought in the 'States the cops could shoot you for that 8*)) They only act that way east of the Mississippi . East of the Sierra/Cascade crest and west of the 100th parallel, they don't ;even consider it, cuz they assume that even more lead might come back the other way!! :-) Greg > >Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com >QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com >(613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews >(613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:11:00 -0600 Subject: RE: Fp regulator mods Yes, 6 psi FP for every 1 psi boost. I am basing this on Corky Bell's recommendation. I have a friend who is running an L28ET (Nissan 2.8, in-line 6, FI, turbo) who is using Bell's BDFPR which is a 6:1 and he gets 17 psi of boost using stock injectors; his fuel pump has 110-120 cut off, GPH=60-70. Seems a little high to me also, and to everyone I talk to, but I spoke to Corky Bell and he said that is what was needed. At 02:00 PM 1/11/99 -0500, you wrote: > >Budget isn't really a concern. I could just go buy an FMU >if I wanted to. But I like doing things myself when possible, >I enjoy the challenge. I'm not too concerned about spilling >fuel either. I wouldn't do anything that would risk a failure >like that. > >When you say 6:1, does that mean you are increasing the FP >by 6 PSI for every 1 PSI of boost? That seems like way too >much. I run 24 PSI at the track, that would be nearly 150 PSI >increase in fuel pressure! > >Thanks, >-Mike > >-----Original Message----- >From: Clarence Wood >Sent: Monday, January 11, 1999 1:19 PM >Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods > >>>I have one and am going to increase the boost index to 6:1 >>>via the method described above. > > ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 15:21:32 -0700 Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods Mallory has a return type BDFPR (Boost Dependent Fuel Pressure Regulator) made out of billet aluminum for $69.95 (JEGS part # 650-4309). The unit will still work if your engine is not a turbo. It uses 4 set screws to hold the diaphragm and it is adjustable. You could modify this unit, successfully, without the worry of material failure. Remember that you are dealing with fuel: a sudden leak can cause tremendous damage! This Mallory unit is the cheapest one that I have found that has the ability to be modified. It is a three port unit (actually it has 4 port openings but is called a 3 port). It comes with an assortment of springs: 3-12 psi, 10-40 psi, 35-65 psi. Hey--thanks for the part number. sounds like a deal! > Now, with this unit you could easily install two diaphragms. You could >reduce the area of one by using two large washers, one on top and one on >the bottom of the diaphragm, that extended into the chamber restricting >the area of the diaphragm (washers with a smaller inside diameter than the >original unit) and to hold the original diaphragm. Drill the holes and >get longer set screws. By ordering a replacement diaphragm you could >connect it to the first diaphragm, and by inserting a spacer, after >drilling a hole to vent to the atmosphere, you would have the unit that >Greg described. The spacer would have to be made but could be done with >non specialized tools. > I have one and am going to increase the boost index to 6:1 via the >method described above. > Oh, THANKS GREG, for telling me how it has to be done! --Carl had a hand in that TOO!!--THANKS!! There are some 1:1 and 3:1 and 4:1 ratio pneumatic pressure corrected pressure regulators available both for industrial steam line use and for industrial (ammonia refrigerant) refrigeration systems. I am SURE that regulators intended for either of these applications would be appropriately safe for fuel use! :-) But, none as good a deal as the Mallory unit! IMHO , Mallory makes FINE stuff!! You can also easily do like Bell does with their rising rate unit, and use a couple of orifices and a needle valve in the manifold pressure line to the regulator so as to be able to fine tune the rate of rise once the diaphragm sizes are close. Another possibility, if you want REALLY accurate control, would be to REDUCE the size of the port in the Mallory valve down to about .060" diameter (with a bushing), get the control rate the way you want it as discussed above, and then use the Mallory regulator as a PILOT valve to operate an industrial grade control valve with a BALANCED port, and with said port sized correctly for your particular flow situation!! Said industrial valves in the size range we are talking about would prolly set you back about one portrait of Ben (otherwise known as a "fun coupon"!!) And you are talking about a truly bulletproof piece--good for ammonia, or whatever, certainly OK for gasoline, and prolly literally able to make a .38 Special slug bounce, if not a .357!! > Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 15:42:07 -0700 Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) >In a message dated 1/11/99 6:53:32 AM Pacific Standard Time, bearbvd@xxx.net >writes: > ><< > Hey---nice suggestion. Thanks, Fred. I was thinking of just using a spring > or some other sort of a flexible connection to the ring holder, but lazier > is always better!!! > > Where to find the diamond lapping compound?? Is there a variety of grit > sizes?? If so which is best?? > > Regards, Greg >> > >Thanks, glad you liked the idea. Thought a bit of work and a couple of sensors >on the air cylinder, you could make the lap programmable. >You can get diamond lapping compound from most industrial supplies. Enco >Manufacturing has it 5 ml syringes with a soluble carrier for less than USD >10.00 per tube. Finest is 0-2 micron, coarsest is 36-54 micron. >Everyone on the list should get an Enco catalog. It is the Sears of machinery >both small and large. >Enco Manufacturing >5000 W. Bloomingdale >Chicago, IL 60639 >1-800-use-enco >1-800-873-3626 > >On a similar note, there is a Nikasil facility somewhere in the states now. >they can coat cylinders with a Nickel Silicon coating by the explosion of a >filament wire. It has been used on Linerless cylinders from Porsche and a >number of small bore motocross bikes. Wish we had it when the Vegas were >around. Similar to Bore Tech in that you finish to size, and then coat. Works >fantastic as long as long you filter the air and oil. Good place for an Oberg >type filter. >Wish you luck on the experiment. Keep us posted. >Fred Yeah--as always, some luck will be needed. Your use of the words "solid lap" got me to thinking some more--mebbe the liner should be finished to the same bore as the polished bores in the block, but with a cross-hatch pattern from maybe #80 or #120 stones, and then be given the carbide treatment. The thought is that maybe this approach would give the lapping compound somewhere to "hide" and something to work against. What do you think?? If Enco is Sears, does that make MSC = J C Penney's?? :-) Regards, Greg ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:53:23 -0600 Subject: Re: Fp regulator mods At 03:21 PM 1/11/99 -0700, Greg wrote: (snip) >Another possibility, if you want REALLY accurate control, would be to >REDUCE the size of the port Which port; return, input or valve? >in the Mallory valve down to about .060" >diameter (with a bushing), get the control rate the way you want it as >discussed above, and then use the Mallory regulator as a PILOT valve to >operate an industrial grade control valve with a BALANCED port, Please explain how a BALANCED port works. Also, would the Mallory return port feed the IGCValve? I am having trouble SEEING the final product; how would the fuel get back to the tank? >and with said port sized correctly for your particular flow situation!! >Said >industrial valves in the size range we are talking about would prolly set >you back about one portrait of Ben (otherwise known as a "fun coupon"!!) Where can I get a balanced port industrial valve and how do I explain to them what I want? >And you are talking about a truly bulletproof piece--good for ammonia, or >whatever, certainly OK for gasoline, and prolly literally able to make a >.38 Special slug bounce, if not a .357!! >> >Regards, Greg > > > ------------------------------ From: FHPREMACH@xxx.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:52:32 EST Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) In a message dated 1/11/99 3:39:54 PM Pacific Standard Time, bearbvd@xxx.net writes: << Yeah--as always, some luck will be needed. Your use of the words "solid lap" got me to thinking some more--mebbe the liner should be finished to the same bore as the polished bores in the block, but with a cross-hatch pattern from maybe #80 or #120 stones, and then be given the carbide treatment. The thought is that maybe this approach would give the lapping compound somewhere to "hide" and something to work against. What do you think?? If Enco is Sears, does that make MSC = J C Penney's?? :-) Regards, Greg >> On the solid laps they often cut a small spiral groove to carry the lapping compound and let the swarf (removed material) float out of the way. Honing to size would be best, be careful about how coarse a finish you leave. The peaks will wear away and the lap will go oversize very quickly. Might try a small spiral grove in the bore. Interestingly, when they lap Granite surface plates, they use a cast iron plate, and charge (the term for applying lapping compound to a lap) the lap with dry diamond powder by crushing it into the cast iron with a hardened steel roller and then working the high spots down like block sanding. Might work well as it would keep the lap from dying as quickly. You could charge the lap with a rod and a radiused race bearing by rotating it in a lathe. As for MSC, it is more like Neiman Marcus in comparison. Fred ------------------------------ From: Emmett Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:13:55 -0500 Subject: air/fuel gauge March Custom rodder has add for Dakota Digital air/fuel mixture gauge Displays mV, works with 1 to 3 wire EGO Phone 800-852-3228 ------------------------------ From: Marc Piccioni Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:04:36 -0700 Subject: RE: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) The final machining operation is lapping, check out Federal Mogul's web site for details. - ---------- From: Bruce Plecan[SMTP:nacelp@xxx.net] Sent: January 10, 1999 1:01 PM To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) - -----Original Message----- From: Marc Piccioni To: 'diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 1:50 PM Subject: RE: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) >It would be interesting to take cylinder leakdown measurements at a regular interval and determine ring seating/wear rates. > >---------- >From: Greg Hermann[SMTP:bearbvd@xxx.net] >Sent: January 10, 1999 10:00 AM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: carbide cylinder bore conversion (Bore Tech) > >>On Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:02:03 -0700 bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) writes: >> >>>Saw an ad in a pals copy of "Vintage Views", a vintage motorcycle racing >>>as'sn. newsletter. It is some sort of a proprietary carbide conversion >>>which they do to the surface of the cast iron. They mention thermal and >>>friction advantages as well as "incredible" bore life. >>> >>>Regards, Greg >> >>Getting rings to seat must be "incredible", too :) >> >>Would you use cast iron, chrome, or molybdenum rings with a carbide bore? >> >> >>Ray Drouillard > >I talked to Bore Tech about a year ago, Ray. They want the bores finished >to their final size before you send them to them, and they want them >POLISHED to about an 8 u-inch finish--no cross hatch pattern stuff!!! >Obviously, this is a whole different ballgame from what we are used to! >Chrome rings are supposed to be the ticket--clearly they are the hardest >and longest wearing. My plan is to use forged pistons (from 2618 Al) and >have them hard anodized about .002" thick, so as to get both high strength >and excellent wear resistance (as well as the thermal advantages of the >hard anodizing). Not common knowlege, but Cummins hard anodizes at least >part of the pistons in some of their high horsepower 855's! > >Bore Tech claims that the rings will seat OK with conventional use, my plan >is to come up a stray cylinder liner (from something else) which can be >finished to the correct bore, and also carbide treated. Then use the liner >and an old piston (or make something) as a lap and a holder for the new >rings, and hand lap the rings to pre-seat them prior to assembly of the >motor. I'd think prelapping them, and then plating would be the answer. That way any machining errors are corrected, first, and then the plating would be uniform, in thickness. Anyone know for sure if the final machining on rings for the OD is grinding?????. Bruce > >Regards, Greg >> >>___________________________________________________________________ >>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > > > > > begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(A\!`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`& !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&$`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S M,BYE;F``,P`0`` M`"(```!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;F5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@$+, $````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S M,BY%3D`' ``0```#$```!2 M13H@8V%R8FED92!C>6QI;F1E M# $````%````4TU44 `````>`!\,`0```!@```!M<&EC8VEO;FE 871T8V%N M861A+FYE= `#``806^RG9P,`!Q P"0``'@xxx.04Q- M04-(24Y)3D=/4$52051)3TY)4TQ!4%!)3DL" M@xxx.W`N0' M$P*#-!+,%,5]"H"+",\)V3L7GS(U-0* !PJ!#;$+8&YG,3 S+Q10"PH440OR M8P! 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