DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, 31 January 1999 Volume 04 : Number 076 In this issue: Re: More UEGO stuff Re: replace an EPROM with an EEPROM? Caddy Northstar PCM RE: fuel pumps Re: replace an EPROM with an EEPROM? Re: fuel pumps Re: KS update... Inquiry About Motorcycle EFI OEM Suppliers RE: fuel pumps Re: More UEGO stuff Need some C source to read a chip file.. Re: fuel pumps Re: More UEGO stuff Lambda Valve Timing Map Re: More UEGO stuff Re: More UEGO stuff Astro/Safari fuel pump replacement Re: Is your car Y2K Ready? RE: Love This Re: Honda ident. request Re: home dyno kit?? See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: CEIJR@xxx.com Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:34:30 EST Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff Although not on this list any more, Gar is alive & well, as is EGOR. He advised last month that EGOR is in the last stages of development for commercial sale, using the NTK/Honda UEGO, with user choice of outputs. (See EGOR archives) Charlie Iliff ------------------------------ From: "Ross Myers" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:43:26 +1100 Subject: Re: replace an EPROM with an EEPROM? >Pinouts are different... 27C256 is a 28 pin, 28256 is a 32 pin... But electrically would it work?, an adaptor would be no prob really. I assume the extra pins are for re-programming?. I agree with Ted, this method would save so much time. >At 05:06 PM 1/29/99 -0500, you wrote: >>Has anyone tried to replace an Eprom with and EEprom? >>Specifically, Replace the 27c256 in a Memcal with a 28256? >>Does anyone know if it would work? or is the pinout somehow different? >>The reason I'm interested in doing this is because it would be more economical >>and efficient. >> >>Also, what do people do about removing and replacing their Eproms from the >>Memcals when reprogramming them? Do you solder in ZIF sockets? >> >>I want to start lookin at and modifying my Memcal, but have never done any of >>this stuff before. >> >>Thanks, >>Ted > >=========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. >=========================================================== > ------------------------------ From: "Ross Myers" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 10:47:04 +1100 Subject: Caddy Northstar PCM Having never seen a Northstar V8 up close (only in books), I have a few questions on them. Is the DFI on them the same as the Buick V-6 type but with an extra 2 coils?. Are they Sequential Inj?. Anybody seen the insides of one of the PCM's?. Regards Ross Myers ------------------------------ From: Marc Piccioni Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:15:43 -0700 Subject: RE: fuel pumps I will also be converting to EFI shortly and wonder if the following will work: Use a low pressure electric pump mounted by the tank feeding forward to an insulated fuel resovoir ( say 1 liter in size) mounted in the engine compartment equipped with a float to keep the level constant. Then feed the high pressure pump locally from the bottom of the resovoir and route the regulator bypass outlet back to the top of the resovoir. The only problem that I can see is possibly vapour being trapped at the top of the tank. - ---------- From: Fran and Bud[SMTP:quest100@xxx.net] Sent: January 30, 1999 2:17 AM To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: Re: fuel pumps Best performance will be gained by mounting the pump low and as close to the gas tank as possible, making the low pressure (inlet) flow circuit short. Most pumps don't do well with suction, but are happy pushing all the gas they can get. - ---------- >From: "Mike Pilkenton" >To: "DIY-EFI" >Subject: fuel pumps >Date: Sat, Jan 30, 1999, 4:34 PM > >Well I'm deep into my engine conversion project and need to install an >electric fuel pump for the EFI engine (3.1L V6). Question is do I have to >put the fuel pump back in the tank or can I install the pump up by the >engine. I know I need the high pressure type made for FI engines and not >the carb (low pressure). Mounting anaftermarket in-line pump up by the >engine sure would be more convenient. Any advice would be appreciated. > >Mike Pilkenton > begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(C8!`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`$P$```"````% ````,``# %````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&$`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S M,BYE;F``,P`0`` M`"(```!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;F`!H` M`0```!0```!215!/4E0N25!-+DY/5$4N3D12`$ `,@``@@:*BTR^`0,`! P` M`````P`%#/____\#`!4,````$ ,`_@\&````'@`!$ $```!$````3F\@=')A M;G-P;W)T('!R;W9I9&5R('=A``$P`0```"0````G9&EY7V5F:4!E9FDS,S(N M96YG+F]H:6\M5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@xxx.@$````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S M,BY%3D5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@$+, $````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S M,BY%3D`!(`#P`K``8`1P$!!@`'`!@```!) M4$TN36EC``P`, `8 M``8`3P$!"8 !`"$````T,$0U1#0P03-!0CA$,C$Q0D4Y0S0T-#4U,S4T,# P M, #Q!@$#D 8`X 8``!,````+`",```````,`)@``````"P`I```````#`#8` M`````$ `.0``@xxx.B!F=65L('!U;7!S```" M`7$``0```!8````!ODR*D$4*U-5!N#H1TKZ<1$535 `````>`!X,`0````4` M``!33510`````!X`'PP!````& ```&UP:6-C:6]N:4!A='1C86YA9&$N;F5T M``,`!A F`@M0`P`'$/8$```>``@0`0```&4```!)5TE,3$%,4T]"14-/3E9% M4E1)3D=43T5&25-(3U)43%E!3D173TY$15))1E1(149/3$Q/5TE.1U=)3$Q7 M3U)+.E5314%,3U=04D534U52145,14-44DE#4%5-4$U/54Y4141"``````(! M"1 !````3P4``$L%``!D"0``3%I&=5,D4VG_``H!#P(5`J@%ZP*#`% "\@D" M`&-H"L!S970R-P8`!L,"@S(#Q0(`<')"<1'BDR% T" B42 34 >0IG,((!D&YKFR(0">!D']("$')W"Q&_( (#D0N )2 +8":29@I00P,@)/%O=F]I M!< HS2!P82#@'E!L:1/0(9'C`Z `D'IE*29'*U$AXKT)\&<+@!]")B *P'0' M@-,","5@<74%(' FH0/PMR'@)'$<8&\I0" ":PG@_R8P(>(E@!^0`R ?81/ M`'#P="X@xxx. AH 0@-'!O!!!I`F @X'9A M[SQ0"' ?(1_36PQ`%!>V'XB"H5T``-P M2:$ET';Y0'\"("5P! `P\')J6$=:WS[N1"E!6+ &$'1/4$ZQ3R?A3U T.C,T M<,!0)G*6Y6^65VH"22<+QK;B2Q'G"#%#'?=#= _Q] `, -L(73AG<$((+3-%#7;Y8AXC-0 M Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 20:51:25 -0500 Subject: Re: replace an EPROM with an EEPROM? Ross Myers wrote: > > But electrically would it work?, an adaptor would be no prob really. > I assume the extra pins are for re-programming?. > I agree with Ted, this method would save so much time. FWIW, check this out: http://www.ldti.net/eep_prg.htm (I'm considering one of these if my homebrew programmer doesn't pan out. Still working on that, though :) ). - -Andrew ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 21:06:16 -0500 Subject: Re: fuel pumps - -----Original Message----- From: Marc Piccioni To: 'diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 8:34 PM Subject: RE: fuel pumps I'm not being smart or a wise a--, but do you like fires?. Have as absolutely few as possible connections, even, under the hood. Use only AN Lines, and Fittings, and practice making a couple dozen lines before you try it for the final fitting. I've seen everything possible that could go wrong go wrong under the hood, and way too many fires. Keeping the pump, filter, seperator, accumulator (mini storage tank) and as much misc fuel stuff by the tank and away from any heat source. Sorry to ramble I just hate engine fires Bruce >I will also be converting to EFI shortly and wonder if the following will >work: > >Use a low pressure electric pump mounted by the tank feeding forward to an >insulated fuel resovoir ( say 1 liter in size) mounted in the engine >compartment equipped with a float to keep the level constant. Then feed the >high pressure pump locally from the bottom of the resovoir and route the >regulator bypass outlet back to the top of the resovoir. The only problem >that I can see is possibly vapour being trapped at the top of the tank. > >---------- >From: Fran and Bud[SMTP:quest100@xxx.net] >Sent: January 30, 1999 2:17 AM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: fuel pumps > >Best performance will be gained by mounting the pump low and as close to >the >gas tank as possible, making the low pressure (inlet) flow circuit short. >Most pumps don't do well with suction, but are happy pushing all the gas >they can get. >---------- >>From: "Mike Pilkenton" >>To: "DIY-EFI" >>Subject: fuel pumps >>Date: Sat, Jan 30, 1999, 4:34 PM >> > >>Well I'm deep into my engine conversion project and need to install an >>electric fuel pump for the EFI engine (3.1L V6). Question is do I have to >>put the fuel pump back in the tank or can I install the pump up by the >>engine. I know I need the high pressure type made for FI engines and not >>the carb (low pressure). Mounting anaftermarket in-line pump up by the >>engine sure would be more convenient. Any advice would be appreciated. >> >>Mike Pilkenton >> > > > > ------------------------------ From: kv@xxx.com Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:03:25 -0700 Subject: Re: KS update... Haven't worked with Discrete IC's for awhile--- what is a 339? Your welcome! ________________________________________________ Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com Barry Tisdale on 01/29/99 06:39:08 PM Please respond to diy_efi@xxx.edu To: diy_efi@xxx.edu cc: (bcc: Kevin Vannorsdel/San Jose/IBM) Subject: KS update... Added a 339 to the 555 KS display circuit - can now use the small AC signal directly from the KS w/o any problems - lots easier than probing around the ECM for hours. Thanks for all the help offered - Barry ------------------------------ From: Qiang Chen Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 09:46:51 0800 Subject: Inquiry About Motorcycle EFI OEM Suppliers Hello everybody, Is there any body who can tell me some information on Motorcycle EFI OEM suppliers, such as fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injector and senors. I would be very grateful if you can send your email to q_chen@xxx.net Best regards, Qiang Chen mailto:q_chen@xxx.net ------------------------------ From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:55:46 -0700 Subject: RE: fuel pumps >I will also be converting to EFI shortly and wonder if the following will >work: > >Use a low pressure electric pump mounted by the tank feeding forward to an >insulated fuel resovoir ( say 1 liter in size) mounted in the engine >compartment equipped with a float to keep the level constant. Then feed the >high pressure pump locally from the bottom of the resovoir and route the >regulator bypass outlet back to the top of the resovoir. The only problem >that I can see is possibly vapour being trapped at the top of the tank. So put a small (like a holley #60 or so jet) for an orifice at the top of the tank, and connect it to a return line back to the tank. Greg > >---------- >From: Fran and Bud[SMTP:quest100@xxx.net] >Sent: January 30, 1999 2:17 AM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: fuel pumps > >Best performance will be gained by mounting the pump low and as close to >the >gas tank as possible, making the low pressure (inlet) flow circuit short. >Most pumps don't do well with suction, but are happy pushing all the gas >they can get. >---------- >>From: "Mike Pilkenton" >>To: "DIY-EFI" >>Subject: fuel pumps >>Date: Sat, Jan 30, 1999, 4:34 PM >> > >>Well I'm deep into my engine conversion project and need to install an >>electric fuel pump for the EFI engine (3.1L V6). Question is do I have to >>put the fuel pump back in the tank or can I install the pump up by the >>engine. I know I need the high pressure type made for FI engines and not >>the carb (low pressure). Mounting anaftermarket in-line pump up by the >>engine sure would be more convenient. Any advice would be appreciated. >> >>Mike Pilkenton >> > > > >begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT >M>)\^(C8!`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` >M`@````(``@`!!) &`$P$```"````% ````,``# %````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ >M`0```&$`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S >M,BYE;FM;VAI;RUS=&%T92YE9'4`````'@`", $````%````4TU44 `````>``,P`0`` >M`"(```!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;F`!H` >M`0```!0```!215!/4E0N25!-+DY/5$4N3D12`$ `,@``@@:*BTR^`0,`! P` >M`````P`%#/____\#`!4,````$ ,`_@\&````'@`!$ $```!$````3F\@=')A >M;G-P;W)T('!R;W9I9&5R('=AM('1H:7,@``$P`0```"0````G9&EY7V5F:4!E9FDS,S(N >M96YG+F]H:6\MM149),S,R+D5.1RY/2$E/+5-4051%+D5$50```P``.0`````"`1(Z`0```&$` >M````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;FM;VAI;RUS=&%T92YE9'4`4TU44 !D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;FM=&%T92YE9'4`````'@xxx.@$````D````)V1I>5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO >M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@xxx.@$````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S >M,BY%3DM!0X````#```P!@````L`#PX!`````@'_#P$```!A`````````($K'Z2^HQ 9 >MG6X`W0$/5 (`````9&EY7V5F:4!E9FDS,S(N96YG+F]H:6\MM`%--5% `9&EY7V5F:4!E9FDS,S(N96YG+F]H:6\MM`C !````!0```%--5% `````'@`#, $````B````9&EY7V5F:4!E9FDS,S(N >M96YG+F]H:6\MM`0````,`_@\&````'@`!, $````D````)V1I>5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO >M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@$+, $````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S >M,BY%3DM"CJXTA&^G$1%4U0```L`0#H!`````@'V#P$````$````````!OSW`0B !P`8 >M````25!-+DUI8W)OM;"!P=6UP`!(`#P`K``8`1P$!!@`'`!@```!) >M4$TN36EC``P`, `8 >M``8`3P$!"8 !`"$````T,$0U1#0P03-!0CA$,C$Q0D4Y0S0T-#4U,S4T,# P >M, #Q!@$#D 8`X 8``!,````+`",```````,`)@``````"P`I```````#`#8` >M`````$ `.0``@xxx.B!F=65L('!U;7!S```" >M`7$``0```!8````!ODR*D$4*U-5!N#H1TKZ<1$535 `````>`!X,`0````4` >M``!33510`````!X`'PP!````& ```&UP:6-C:6]N:4!A='1C86YA9&$N;F5T >M``,`!A F`@M0`P`'$/8$```>``@0`0```&4```!)5TE,3$%,4T]"14-/3E9% >M4E1)3D=43T5&25-(3U)43%E!3D173TY$15))1E1(149/3$Q/5TE.1U=)3$Q7 >M3U)+.E5314%,3U=04D534U52145,14-44DE#4%5-4$U/54Y4141"``````(! >M"1 !````3P4``$L%``!D"0``3%I&=5,D4VG_``H!#P(5`J@%ZP*#`% "\@D" >M`&-H"L!S970R-P8`!L,"@S(#Q0(`<')"<1'BMR#41!;L34P_=?0J ",\)V3L9CW@R-34"@ J!#;$+8&[P9S$P,Q10"PH440OR >MHF,`0"!)( /P; ,@@0= M;')Y'M!N9!Z `B $@2"[!I @`&@?0 (0'K!O`_#''^$>DR% M$; >T" B42 34 >0IG,(M(>(!D&YKFR(0">!D']("$')W"Q&_( (#D0N )2 +8":29@I00P,@)/%O=F]I >M!< HS2!P82#@'E!L:1/0(9'C`Z `D'IE*29'*U$AXKT)\&<+@!]")B *P'0' >M@-,","5@<74%(' FH0/PMR'@)'$<8&\I0" ":PG@_R8P(>(E@!^0`R ?81/ >M`'#P="X@xxx.M(<0IYR$"`V!U$] TU6?_*2(%L2;0"K $$38!)8 %0-YB`- G<" 1)P-O)C T >MO=LQ`S2@;B#1$U!O`F 3X/\AT2\Q'G S4"MA"> AH 0@-'!O!!!I`F @X'9A >M[SQ0"' ?(1_3M@xxx.D2N0R8,@D8Q`Y$!(0)" >M=61;4TU4+% Z+A 'D'0MP%$@xxx.C$W%+!-2I]%79Q4;TS?1YLGP'E?#M,BXLT2YR;S(`;RTPL4HA"8!UXU _2ZYU8FHED5)?1YO<4F58L"F3)@)S/Z] >ML]PS-D(G'<5#)D))H230=P20*!$#@6,?0!Z3'S%G_PMQ)J0F4Q_3(?$RY0?@ >M(0+_-V ?4!D@)%$X9 J%8 `$(+M`0?@8WTJ0&,N( 5 ((,Q``J%3=\\8%ZA6S)4( (@)P5 :6!_'H E<"+Q+J(E >M("6@xxx. [HF<1 >MP&@xxx.1 :04P=RXM03YOEE(R >M(G!$25DM($%Q87-Q7Q<@052O5;<^3U B-"^@-B!#>6PQ`%!>V'XB"H5T``-P >M2:$ET';Y0'\"("5P! `P\')J6$=:WS[N1"E!6+ &$'1/4$ZQ3R?A3U T.C,T >M<,!0)G*6Y6^65VH"22M,9(?$"CQ`9#]'K)N;Y8E=WM'* (ATR!"`2S5*#,N,4P@5N0V*3$`(%%)DH(2 >M/"'_:<$>M-RSCAZ$><+QK;B2Q'G"#%#'?=#= _Q] `, -L(73AG<$((+3-%#7;Y8AXC-0 >MM*2 FL9%Q!; ?10,`DRW!AZ%!;B#A9'8ET/^963W1&9!G4"E"/Y9REW",[WYO >M7 \+515B,A*P0R8*A048L0"C, `#`! 0``````,`$1 !````0 `',, XEW^) >M3+X!0 `(,, XEW^)3+X!`@xxx.@$````0````0-74"CJXTA&^G$1%4U0``!X` >4/0`!````!0```%)%.B `````YQT` >` >end ------------------------------ From: "paul" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 14:12:32 +1100 Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff Hi all, Any idea how much the EGOR would cost? In another message someone mentioned building something for under $200 .Would this be a wide range sensor and viewed on an LCD screen? Could a PIC be used to read the info and send it to the screen? PAUL - ---------- > From: CEIJR@xxx.com > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff > Date: Sunday, January 31, 1999 10:34 AM > > Although not on this list any more, Gar is alive & well, as is EGOR. He > advised last month that EGOR is in the last stages of development for > commercial sale, using the NTK/Honda UEGO, with user choice of outputs. (See > EGOR archives) > > Charlie Iliff ------------------------------ From: ECMnut@xxx.com Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:35:17 EST Subject: Need some C source to read a chip file.. Hoday, I'm learning C *VERY* slowly. Does anyone have a sample of a program or subroutine that reads a an ERPOM image file into an array or (?)..... Thanks for any guidance.. Mike V Microsoft C ++ 6.0 newbie ------------------------------ From: "Fran and Bud" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 19:56:11 +0000 Subject: Re: fuel pumps Marc, Using a low pressure electric pump to fill a reservoir that then supplies a high pressure pump that feeds the fuel rails is often used when converting an old mechanical FI to EFI. The pressure regulator or pressure relief valve routes the return fuel from the rails back to the reservoir. (Pretty much as you outlined) This combination can be made to work very well. In such systems the reservoir is configured to act as a liquid-vapor separator with the vapor coming off the top and being returned to the gas tank through a low pressure check valve or back pressure regulator. In a configuration like this, the electric pump is mounted below and close to the reservoir which it thinks is the fuel tank, so that it always has a good head pressure at the pump inlet. The pressure on the top of the reservoir (back pressure from the check valve) also assists in assuring a good supply to the pump, and at the same time the vapor returns to the rear fuel tank which is still vented. One advantage of this approach is that even if the fuel tank level gets so low that the low pressure pump picks up air, the air only gets as far as the reservoir where it returns off the top and back to the tank - and the high pressure pump never sees air until you are bone dry. If the reservoir is fabricated with a flat side, a regular Holley float bowl can be fitted to provide the needle valve and float mechanisms so that you don't have to make everything. The conversions of mechanical FI sometimes use a mechanical FI fuel pump as the high pressure pump to feed the rails. Starting and tuning become quite complex since mechanical pumps are generally positive displacement and the faster they are turned the more fuel they deliver and the higher the pressure until the regulator or relief valve opens. Sometimes a second low pressure pump is required to provide pressure for starting until the mechanical pump takes over. The only down side to all of this is that it is much more complex and costly to do right. Spring rates in check valves, regulators, back pressure regulators, and relief valves have to be played with depending on what components are used, lots of tinkering time, development, etc. But if you use a normal EFI approach, and address only the fuel delivery system (as you outlined) you should have no more problems than any EFI and will avoid the problems of vapor, low fuel tank levels, and air pickup during cornering/slosh. The reservoir design should have 1) a low or bottom outlet for the high pressure pump feed, 2) baffled areas for the low pressure supply and the rail return to enter near the bottom but not where they could interfere with the feed to the high pressure pump 3) a top outlet for the vapor return to the tank and 4)possibly another top outlet for a pressure gage. DONT FORGET to assure that the reservoir supply and the return from the rails enter the reservoir into/under liquid and not into the air space above the liquid. Same would go for a fuel return line that was routed back into the tank (if there was no reservoir). OK for the vapor return line to enter high but the returning gasoline should always return to near the bottom. Static electricity/spark reasons) Most of this stuff is is "old time racer" lore learned the hard way on mechanical FI systems, not on EFI, but the gasoline doesn't know the difference - except that it is being delivered more accurately with EFI. Bud - ---------- >From: Marc Piccioni >To: "'diy_efi@xxx.edu> >Subject: RE: fuel pumps >Date: Sun, Jan 31, 1999, 1:15 AM > >I will also be converting to EFI shortly and wonder if the following will >work: > >Use a low pressure electric pump mounted by the tank feeding forward to an >insulated fuel resovoir ( say 1 liter in size) mounted in the engine >compartment equipped with a float to keep the level constant. Then feed the >high pressure pump locally from the bottom of the resovoir and route the >regulator bypass outlet back to the top of the resovoir. The only problem >that I can see is possibly vapour being trapped at the top of the tank. > >---------- >From: Fran and Bud[SMTP:quest100@xxx.net] >Sent: January 30, 1999 2:17 AM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: Re: fuel pumps > >Best performance will be gained by mounting the pump low and as close to >the >gas tank as possible, making the low pressure (inlet) flow circuit short. >Most pumps don't do well with suction, but are happy pushing all the gas >they can get. >---------- >>From: "Mike Pilkenton" >>To: "DIY-EFI" >>Subject: fuel pumps >>Date: Sat, Jan 30, 1999, 4:34 PM >> > >>Well I'm deep into my engine conversion project and need to install an >>electric fuel pump for the EFI engine (3.1L V6). Question is do I have to >>put the fuel pump back in the tank or can I install the pump up by the >>engine. I know I need the high pressure type made for FI engines and not >>the carb (low pressure). Mounting anaftermarket in-line pump up by the >>engine sure would be more convenient. Any advice would be appreciated. >> >>Mike Pilkenton >> > > ------------------------------ From: Raymond C Drouillard Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:34:30 -0500 Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff I would buy one. Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself. The circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated. In its most basic form, it is a single op-amp and a few discretes. Add a few more components for a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when it's not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it. Ray Drouillard On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski writes: >If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many >would >buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a >wide O2 meter. > >Steve > >Mike Pitts wrote: > >> Any interest? Is this a waste of bandwidth? >> >> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier >> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit >> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional >> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable >> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to >> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually >> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier >> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is >accomplished >> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these >> offset quantities from the processed signal. " >> >> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__ >> >> -Mike > > > > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 04:43:52 GMT Subject: Lambda Valve Before anyone else runs off into fantasy land, it might help to know what a "Lambda Valve" is. What it most definitely is not is a Fuel Pressure Regulator in any classical sense. Control fuel comes from the pump thrum the control pressure regulator - which varies CONTROL fuel pressure with coolant temperature and sometimes manifold pressure. Also known as warm up regulator. In parallel with the lower control chambers in the fuel distributer is the Lambda Valve. It looks similar to a Fuel Injector but its not. It opens and closes in a similar manner, but its opening and closing do not meter fuel. Rather the amount of time the valve remains open - bleeding control fuel back to the tank - controls the pressure in the lower chambers of the differential pressure valves. This in turn, changes upper chamber pressure to change the pressure drop and change enrichment. Simple terms - its a solenoid valve - pure plain and simple. Its on time is determined by the pulse width. Open Closed. That's it that's all there is. But - it can be used for anything you want. A Frequency/Pulse width modulated valve that can handle up to about 100 PSI. Think about it - you might come up with a dark side idea. 1963 Ford C-600 Prison Bus Conversion "Home" 1971 Lincoln Continental 460 "Christine" 1972 "Whale" Mustang awaiting transplant 1978 Dodge Long Bed Peeek Up "Bundymobile" Habaneros - not just for breakfast anymore ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:49:31 -0500 Subject: Timing Map If someone was looking at a say 1989 350 CID stock Firebird auto trans, ie 1227165 ecm, MAF the timing table might look something like this. Again, for educational purposes for understanding engine management. RPM 32 48 64 80 96 112 128 144 160 176 192 208 400 18 18 18 18 18 19 20 22 21 20 20 20 600 16 16 16 16 17 18 20 21 21 20 20 20 800 15 15 15 15 15 18 20 21 22 21 21 21 1000 18 21 25 25 26 26 23 23 23 19 19 19 1200 19 24 28 28 27 22 19 18 18 16 16 16 1400 20 26 31 31 31 28 24 22 22 19 19 19 1600 21 36 36 34 34 33 30 26 23 22 22 22 1800 23 33 36 36 35 34 33 26 23 22 22 22 2000 23 33 36 36 36 35 33 30 26 24 22 22 2200 23 33 36 36 36 36 34 33 29 24 22 22 2400 23 33 36 36 36 36 35 29 26 24 22 22 2800 23 33 36 36 36 36 35 28 24 20 20 20 3200 23 33 36 36 36 36 33 28 23 21 20 20 3600 25 34 38 38 38 36 32 27 24 22 20 20 4000 25 27 30 34 34 36 33 28 25 22 20 20 4400 25 34 38 38 38 36 32 28 24 24 23 23 4800 34 40 40 40 40 38 35 32 29 25 23 23 Spark Adders 400 2 1200 4 2000 5 3200 6 4800 8 If you don't understand all of what your looking at please refer to programming 101. Being maf, the fuel stuff is rather meaningless to stare at, I got some other chev stuff, that will probably be fortcoming, but I'd really hope some DFIer, FP SEFI, HALTECHer would post some of their maps.. Cheers Bruce ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 00:07:07 -0500 Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff - -----Original Message----- From: Raymond C Drouillard To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 11:39 PM Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff Gee, sounds so easy. Hmm, care to whip up a ION?. I certainly hope you weren't making light of Steve's work. Bruce >I would buy one. Of course, if I happen to "stumble" across a design >before the kit is available, I would simply build it myself. The >circuitry on a UEGO isn't all that complicated. In its most basic form, >it is a single op-amp and a few discretes. Add a few more components for >a double-ended power supply, something to shut off the ion pump when it's >not warm, something to regulate the heater, and you have it. > >Ray Drouillard > > >On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:25:13 -0600 Steve Gorkowski >writes: >>If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many >>would >>buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a >>wide O2 meter. >> >>Steve >> >>Mike Pitts wrote: >> >>> Any interest? Is this a waste of bandwidth? >>> >>> "This invention provides an self-calibrating buffer amplifier >>> for a Universal Exhaust Gas Oxygen sensor interface circuit >>> which couples and processes a voltage signal proportional >>> to pumping cell current to a level and reference voltage suitable >>> for input to an A-to-D convertor. The goal of this invention is to >>> increase the accuracy of air-to-fuel ratio control by continually >>> correcting for the effects of offset quantities in the amplifier >>> stage necessary to the interface circuitry. This goal is >>accomplished >>> by an approach which effectively generates and subtracts these >>> offset quantities from the processed signal. " >>> >>> http://patent.womplex.ibm.com/details?pn=US05211154__ >>> >>> -Mike >> >> >> >> > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ From: Chris Conlon Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 01:57:03 -0500 Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff At 02:25 PM 1/30/99 -0600, you wrote: >If one would come as a kit for under $200.00 with sensor. How many would >buy the kit ? No sense to design if one if no one was interested in a >wide O2 meter. If you wanted, I'd be willing to help with the circuit design. It may be more complicated than people have made it sound, but from the info posted lately it sounds very doable and kinda fun even. :) From the sound of it I doubt you need help, but if you did want any for some reason, feel free to drop me a line. And what the other guy said about not being able to build them fast enough (at $200) is entirely true. Chris Conlon ------------------------------ From: "Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 02:31:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: Astro/Safari fuel pump replacement anyone know what otehr GM pumps fit a 86 with TBI can I drop an entire SS454 or Z28 setup in? Clive ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 04:41:01 +0000 Subject: Re: Is your car Y2K Ready? > I called these guys outta curiousity... he was pretty decent with me. Said > that 98% of the cars are OK but some luxury cars (GM) (like Caddy) report > the date to test equipment during diagnostics... apparently this is kept > in the "Body Control Module"- and will need some sort of upgrade when Y2K > rolls around... > > I told him I couldn't even keep the clock right on my radio--- he > chuckled! > The SAE code is 8 bit BCD 0-99 also a elasped year of 0-255 which listed under driver information, status = $F9 reset= $F8 for a J1850 OBD bus. There could be manufacture defined formats or internal timers not on bus. alex alex ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 04:41:01 +0000 Subject: RE: Love This > >I know Toyota uses the system in the 1ZZ-FE and claims lower evap > >emissions as the reason, FWIW. Less vapor lock? > > DO NOT let mfgr BS about less evap emissions get confused with getting the > vapor bubbles out of the fuel rails!!! > The evap. test has been increased from 1 hr to 3 days so is more difficult to past. Does any one know where i can get a low permeation fuel neck hose? alex ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 04:41:00 +0000 Subject: Re: Honda ident. request > >The Honda Part Number 36531-P07-003 used in the 92-95 VTEC > >Civics are 5 wire. There are seven pins in the connector, 2 being > >for a "calibration" resistor. > > Where is the error here?. > >Bruce > > Do not believe there is one, Bruce. > > Regards, Greg > > > >The LAF Sensor currently is used only on the lean burn Civic which > >were: > >92-95 VX > >96-98 HX > >All LAF sensors are 7 wire. > The sensor could be designed for lean operation only, wide range sensors were developed from the lean burn sensor at least from a SAE paper i read on toyota development. alex ------------------------------ From: xxalexx@xxx.com Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 04:41:01 +0000 Subject: Re: home dyno kit?? > About 6 - 8 years ago (?) in Road & Track there was a Tech Tidbit > (or some such) article about accelerometers / stopwatch / coastdown > to determine rolling and wind resistance and horsepower. Does > anybody have the reference? > > TIA, > Jay > Power is change in kinetic energy over a time 1/2*m*(v^2f-vi^2) /t where vf is final velocity vi=initial velocity m = mass of car and t=time potential energy= 0 alex alex ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #76 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".