DIY_EFI Digest Wednesday, 3 February 1999 Volume 04 : Number 087 In this issue: Re: More UEGO stuff Re: AutoClutch and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy) Re: Love This Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? RE: PWM motor controller Re: PWM motor controller Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? Re: Chevy ECMs PWM controller correction Re: Chevy ECMs VIRUS alert.... RE: Intake Runner Length Re: PWM motor controller RE: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? Re: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator Re: fusible link questions Re: VIRUS alert.... Re: Chevy ECMs Re: PWM motor controller Re: PWM motor controller RE: fusible link questions Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? Re: Chevy ECMs Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? RE: Tim Drury article RE: fusible link questions Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? Groan... Not another VIRUS alert.... See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve Gorkowski Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 06:48:47 -0600 Subject: Re: More UEGO stuff They are probably using a digital control loop ( read the voltage with adc, set the current with dac ). Regulating heater wattage also. Just another way of controlling this sensor. When you have lots of margin dollars in the product and a team working on it full time it would make sense . Steve Raymond C Drouillard wrote: > On Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:37:48 +1100 "Ross Myers" > writes: > > > > > >>Hi all, > >> I checked out the motec site (autronics also sell one) but > these > >>are too expensive for me .That is why I was hoping one could be built > (even > >>as a kit) at a fraction of the cost.Motecs unit is just right with the > >>screen and sensor. > >>Some of us race people are on tight budgets! > >>PAUL > > > > > >I know what you are saying Paul, but my point was if they felt the need > for > >a 32bit micro to run the thing something must be tricky. > > > >Regards > > > >Ross Myers > > Either that, or they want you to believe that it's tricky and pay the > $$$$. Even if there is a pressure and thermal sensor, it wouldn't take > much processing power to calculate a true lambda reading from all of > that. Even if they are doing data logging... > > Ray > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: "Gary Derian" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 07:51:16 -0500 Subject: Re: AutoClutch and manual trans (was: Re: Smooth strategy) The Ferrari setup is WAY more complicated than that. Also motorcycles are non-synchro. A car trans won't shift with a ratchet shifter. But two pedals and no shifter is definitely the way to go. We have been shifting with 3 pedals and a shift lever since the '20s or teens. Gary Derian >Why not go all the way and adopt the Ferrari setup. Use the standard friction clutch >operated by a power steering pump and cylinder along with the finger switches on the >steerring wheel to up/down shift, all controlled by the computer. Copy the ratchet >shifter mechanism from a motorcycle. Just two pedals and no shifter..... > >Let's see.... has anyone seen a Ferrari in the local U-Pull?? Tom ------------------------------ From: "Gary Derian" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 07:56:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Love This Acoustic noise. Also reduces electric load. As far as electric noise goes, I don't know but it must not be a problem. Gary Derian >> Cooling fans are PWM controlled to minimize noise when full cooling is not >> needed. >> >Electrical or acoustic? >Shannen ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 07:22:38 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > David A. Cooley wrote: > > > > At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote: > > >I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early > > >Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am > > >about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I > > couldn't > > >pass up. > > > > > >I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD > > >I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled > > >motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I > > >should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap? > > > > You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well... > > All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat > > O2 sensor... Pre OBD_I didn't. > > > > > Pre OBD_I? But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988. > I think he means before pre-ODB-II which would be 93 or so. I don't thing anyone really has had any problems with the 94/95 f-body PCM's in this area. To the originaly person doing the swap, there is 1-2 on this list working on the disassembly of a 94/95 f-body PCM and if you know assembly the person would probably be glad for any help. One problem with going with an earlier ecm, is if you have the tranny with the engine then there may be a problem, as the tranny is electronically controlled and the electronic control was not done in the computer before 94. On the 93 ECM I have alot of the critical info already figured out. I have parts of the fuel system figured out, all of the TCC system is figured out. Roger ------------------------------ From: "Ord Millar" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 09:11:42 -0400 Subject: RE: PWM motor controller 1N4749A - 1 watt, 24V zener 1000 pF = 1nF, 1000 nF = 1uF (.1uF is 100000 pF) .1uF is easy to find in disk or ceramic monolithic, not electrolytic. 3.3uF can be found, should have a part number containing 335. - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu [mailto:owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu]On Behalf Of Tom Sharpe Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 12:22 AM To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: Re: PWM motor controller > Pwm.txt Write up on circuit > pwm1.gif Image of schematic > > Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out! > > BobR. > > Any questions, just post... I got out my rusty Tech America catalog and foundall the resistors and capacitors. I'm not a EE so I need lots of help. 1. What is a 18-24v 1Watt Zenier (I think I know but I need a PN). 2. IRFZ44 (pg73) T220 or IRFP044 (pg74) 4 pin package and 180W - 57 amps. 3. IN4753A or IN4755A (pg62) 36v 7ma - 43v 6ma 4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ??? 5. For the .1 uf and 3.3 uf cap, use electrolytic? can't find disk cap. What voltage?? 16? How do you convert pf to uf?? 6. I want to run it from a stamp computer (or possibly a HC11 SBC) driven from a Fuel pressure sensor and the tach lead. What do I need to change?? I think the input is 0-1 volt or 0-5 volts. Help 25 psi <= 2K rpm, 75 psi >= 6K rpm, rising rate from 2K to 6K rpm I could drive it directly from the 0-5V fuel pressure sensor. ------- the lights just went on again... Thanks in advance - I will test it with a pot - what wattage??? will a small one work? Tom Sharpe ------------------------------ From: rauscher@xxx.com Date: Wed, 03 Feb 99 09:30:58 -0500 Subject: Re: PWM motor controller OK, lets see... >I got out my rusty Tech America catalog and found all the resistors and >capacitors. I'm not a EE so I need lots of help. Don't have a Tech America cat around, but I'll do my best... >1. What is a 18-24v 1Watt Zenier (I think I know but I need a PN). 1N4746 is an 18V, to 1N4749 being a 24V, DO-41 package. >2. IRFZ44 (pg73) T220 or IRFP044 (pg74) 4 pin package and 180W - 57 >amps. I use the TO-220 packages, cheaper and for this app you don't need the higher dissipation capability of the TO-247 package (IRFP044). >3. IN4753A or IN4755A (pg62) 36v 7ma - 43v 6ma Ah yes, part number and volts I used don't match, either will work, but I would tend to use the 36v, 1N4753. The best would be a TVS, unidirectional, 33V @xxx. Spec number: P6KE33A, there are normally more characters following, but appear to be manufacture dependent. >4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ??? Electrolytic is fine, and cheap. >5. For the .1 uf and 3.3 uf cap, use electrolytic? can't find disk cap. >What voltage?? 16? How do you convert pf to uf?? The .1uf should be at least 16v. Ceramic disc is OK, but for best stability, use a film cap. Polyester or polypropylene are good. This cap should only affect the freq of the PWM, but sometimes there can be side effects. (cap on pin 2 of LM393). The 3.3uf, electrolytic is fine, again, min 16v, 25 or 35v works. pf to uf, lets see, 1000pf = 1nf = .001uf, thats pico, nano, micro farad. I think thats correct, just keep shifting the decimal point 3 at a time. >6. I want to run it from a stamp computer (or possibly a HC11 SBC) >driven from a Fuel pressure sensor and the tach lead. What do I need to >change?? I think the input is 0-1 volt or 0-5 volts. Help The Vin voltage range will be from 0 to 12V, drat, just thought of a potential problem. The duty cycle will vary with the power supply voltage. I keep forgetting that the auto volts vary greatly (as I slap my forehead, knocking my CSH askew). OK, this can work to our advantage, the incoming control volts also need to be stable. So, lets power the circuit from +5V, and have the incoming control volts (Vin), go from 0v to 5v for control. What we need to do, is to use a LM7805 3-terminal regulator to create a +5V supply. Run everything except the 2N2907 emitter from that. This should work, BUT, I'll breadboard it tonight and try it. OK, I'll test this out, and make the additions to the schematic. >25 psi <= 2K rpm, >75 psi >= 6K rpm, >rising rate from 2K to 6K rpm > >I could drive it directly from the 0-5V fuel pressure sensor. ------- >the lights just went on again... > >Thanks in advance - I will test it with a pot - what wattage??? will a >small one work? Yep, just about any old pot will do, even a 1 or 2 K Ohm will work. (Let's see, 5V / 1K Ohm = 5mA, 5Ma * 5V = 0.025W, which is under a 10th watt and worst case here, and I'm already thinking of using a 5v supply). > >Tom Sharpe BobR. - -- ------------------------------ From: Ken Kelly Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 09:37:32 -0500 Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? David, If the 94, 95 camaro had aftercat sensors they were for decoration only. I know a half dozen people using the 94, 95 LT1 computer in nearly stock configurations without Aftercat O2 sensors. There are two O2 sensors, but it is one in each bank, and they are both before the cats. Ken David A. Cooley wrote: > > At 02:37 PM 2/2/99 -0800, you wrote: > >I've been quiet on this list for a while. I swapped a 93 LT1 into my early > >Corvette, and thanks to this list and others, have enjoyed that swap and am > >about to do a similar swap into a 69 Camaro with a 97 Z28 motor that I > couldn't > >pass up. > > > >I know some of the high horsepower guys I know have swapped from OBD II to OBD > >I PCMs due to difficulties of squeezing 600 HP out of an OBD II controlled > >motor. For a stock, smog exempt OBD II swap, are there any pitfalls that I > >should look out for? Anyone else on the list already done such a swap? > > You may want to go Pre-OBD_I as well... > All of the OBD_I PCM's from GM I have seen on V8's have a pre and post cat > O2 sensor... Pre OBD_I didn't. > > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. > =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: Ken Kelly Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 09:43:07 -0500 Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs Ernst, I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants to open his or hers we can compare notes. Ken Ernst Denbroeder wrote: > > Curious... > > Is the 96 PCM a pre 96 with additional circuitry or is it a ground up > redesign? > > Ernst. > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Ken Kelly [SMTP:kenkelly@xxx.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 9:02 AM > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs > > > > Curtis, > > The 96 PCM is OBD-II compliant. It is much more sensative > > to changes than the older units. It will set a lot of error > > codes if you make engine changes. A 94-95 PCM (16188051)from > > any LT1 will plug into your wiring harness and run the > > engine. It will not have OBD-II and not use the aftercat O2 > > sensors. Be sure to change the Knock sensor in the engine to > > match the original PCM application. Some people have had > > success changing the Knock module in the PCM to the one from > > the original PCM and not changing the KS. > > > > Ken > > > > > Curtis Mittong wrote: > > > > > > I have a 96 Impala SS with an LT1. I also have a bare LT1 > > > block that I plan to bore and stroke to 409. I already > > > know about all of the mechanical pitfalls I will hit, but > > > wondered how much HP will the stock PCM handle with > > > reprogramming and about #52 injectors? Will I be able to > > > do it? If not, what PCM should I use? > > > > > > Curtis ------------------------------ From: rauscher@xxx.com Date: Wed, 03 Feb 99 09:59:27 -0500 Subject: PWM controller correction For those of you who didn't read through all of my response to Tom's questions, there is a potential got'cha. I have the 12v vehicle power being used to power up the PWM portion of the circuit. Vehicle volts vary greatly. This will cause a change in duty cycle as the vehicle volts change. Don't think we need this 'feature'. But, the fix is easy, use a LM7805 3-terminal regulator to create a stable 5 volt supply. Run the PWM portion (LM393), from this supply. (Checked the data book, LM393 is spec'd down to a 2V supply). This will also change the Vin control voltage to 0 to 5 volts. This should be better all around, as this will allow you to create a more stable control voltage. I'll breadboard this tonight, test it out, add the changes to the schematic, add in missing component specs, and get it posted. BobR. Thank you for your patience, we now return you to our normally scheduled program. - -- ------------------------------ From: Roger Heflin Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 09:29:23 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Ken Kelly wrote: > Ernst, > > I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct > answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I > have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a > Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants > to open his or hers we can compare notes. > > Ken > Ken, I assume you have been looking at what I am doing on the 93's. We might want to get together in writing the flash prom editors. I have noticed that other editors don't do very well with some of the single byte parameters. Mine is being written in VB 4.0, and I will probably need modules/screens for the TCC, fuel setup, spark setup, and misc parameters, and probably on a 96 for the trannyu shifting setup. Roger ------------------------------ From: Barry Tisdale Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:31:03 -0500 Subject: VIRUS alert.... There's a virus (worm, actually), that attaches itself to your outgoing email w/o your knowing about it. I got it & may have passed it to this group, or individual members. Goes by the name HAPPY99.EXE - please check your drive - if you find it, do NOT run it, delete it. If there IS a problem w/ it, contact me for the fix. Sorry about that - Barry ------------------------------ From: "Van Setten, Tim (AZ75)" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 08:38:38 -0700 Subject: RE: Intake Runner Length > To my amazement the flow went up as compared to the vastly > unrealistic unshrouded situation I had before that. A quick > investigation with the 'flow direction and velocity indicator' (a piece > of sewing cotton tied to some welding wire), revealed that the flow > patterns had changed from being concentrated on the ceiling, to > being concentrated on the outside wall of the port, with the flow > curling around the valve stem . > > I found the optimum port shape changed significantly. A completely > different approach needed to be taken, than in my previous setup. > > I had always heard and read about how ports set low in the head > don't flow worth a damn, but now I'm not so sure; my small low > rectangular exhaust ports almost outflow my high, round smooth > intakes! > > I also have a theory that low intake ports add significant swirl to the > incoming mixture, for very little cost in flow. > > My 2c > Exactly right! We have been playing around with different porting schemes and found that you don't want the air to tumble in around the valve, instead, if you can make it swirl in (Vortec's idea?) you can get a lot more in. "Some" drag-racers claim that you want the swirl to go ccw also. (Why, and for what purpose? I can't imagine). We haven't got to playing with square or rectangular runners yet. Our cyl-to-bore ratio is 82%. (It's easier to turn up the boost to get more). Good input, thanks.....Tim. ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:14:21 -0600 Subject: Re: PWM motor controller Thanks for the info! I am planning to use the circuit for cooling fan control; will use water teperature sender instead of 5k pot; is there anything wrong with doing that? At 02:15 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: > > > >Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory >a couple of files: > > Pwm.txt Write up on circuit > pwm1.gif Image of schematic > > >Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out! > >BobR. > > >Any questions, just post... > >-- > > > ------------------------------ From: "Kurek, Larry" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 10:30:15 -0600 Subject: RE: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? Well, since I *have* a 94 Camaro, I can guarantee you that it does NOT have post cat O2 sensors. These made their debut on 96+ OBDII cars. Mine is OBDI. Other difference is that the F-body PCM uses only one knock sensor, whereas the Y-body (vette) uses two. AFAIK, the ONLY time post cat O2's were used (Y and F-body) was 96 up. Also, FWIW, there is a place called Casper electronics that makes the rear O2 simulators. heard they work pretty well :) TTYL! Larry > At 04:49 PM 2/2/99 -0600, you wrote: > > >If you are swapping in the standard stock unmodified engine you will > >only need to fake out the sensors that you aren't using, such as the > >additional O2 sensors behind the cats. Also I believe there are some > >things that detect a loose gas cap, this will need to be faked out > >also, and probably several other sensors of the same sort. > That is I > >believe why they generally put a 95 pcm in, they don't have to worry > >about it. The 96 + pcm does have some nice features, it will count > >misfires, but this is supposed to get rather confused if you > put a cam > >that is too big in the car, and count alot of misfires and set SES > >lights and such. > > I was on the Impala SS list for a while... The 94/5 > pre-OBD_II pcm's still > have the dual O2 sensors for each bank, pre and post cat. > According to several list members, the 94/5 Vette and > camaro/firebird also > had the pre-post cat O2 sensors. ------------------------------ From: AL8001@xxx.com Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:32:21 EST Subject: Re: Throttle Body Fuel Pressure Regulator In a message dated 99-02-01 12:49:11 EST, Teller.John@xxx.com writes: >Is there something highly calibrated in there that would be destroyed if >the regulator were disassembled, or is the warning there because the thing >needs to be taken apart in a press and the spring pressure let out slowly? > > The fuel regulator can be disassembled without any problems, unless it has high hours/ mileage. The reg consists of a steel disc on a swivel attatched to the diaphragm. The seat is a tube with a square end. The steel disc tends to get grooved by the tube, not a problem when the parts are bolted together. However, when you unbolt the diaphragm, it's imposible to reassemble the reg in exactly the same location. This will cause low fuel pressure. Harold ------------------------------ From: AL8001@xxx.com Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:31:54 EST Subject: Re: fusible link questions >James Weiler wrote: >> >> gents, >> >> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather >> than a fuse? Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that I'm >> missing? > > Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few. The main advantges I see are: 1 Low cost to use. 2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of power. ( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing) 3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout vital systems. 4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out. As someone has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity will pop for no apparent reason. This is from thermal cycleing. 5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20) or a ATC/ ATO plastic fuse. It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead short ( pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse. Other trivia. Light bulbs do wear out before burning out. Tunsgsten from the hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light and the filament starts to develop thin spots. If the glass looks black/silver or the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced. Mufflers do have bearings. It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways. Harold ------------------------------ From: Pat Ford Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:40:02 -0500 Subject: Re: VIRUS alert.... On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Barry Tisdale wrote: > Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:31:03 -0500 > From: Barry Tisdale > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: VIRUS alert.... > > There's a virus (worm, actually), that attaches itself to your outgoing email w/o your knowing about it. I got it & may have passed it to this group, or individual members. Goes by the name HAPPY99.EXE - please check your drive - if you find it, do NOT run it, delete it. > > If there IS a problem w/ it, contact me for the fix. > > Sorry about that - Barry > do you have any other details? ( I'm not worried at work but, home mail is win.95) This sounds strang but if anyone catches this bug could you send it to me ( as a programming virii are interesting ) I have a zoo full of them 8-) Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ From: Ken Kelly Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 12:40:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs Sounds Good. I just started mine. It is in VB5! I have the basic structure working. I have implemented the basic windows functions like Open & save as. I had a little trouble with the binary files - I'm not a basic programmer, but I have it all working now. I have read a file, checked the data internally, and written the data out into another file using Save as. The files are identicle. I am now coding the scramble & unscramble chip function. I expected to actually start the edit parameters later this week. As you know I have to deal with two chips, the event & the timer side. My plan is to start with basic edit by name with some reasonable scaling built in. I will add the fancy graphics and block edits later. I would like to see how similar our data tables are. It looks like I really have 0xFFF of data table in each chip. Some of the items may be the same. Let's talk off list. I have your email, and you have mine. Ken Roger Heflin wrote: > > On Wed, 3 Feb 1999, Ken Kelly wrote: > > > Ernst, > > > > I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct > > answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I > > have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a > > Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants > > to open his or hers we can compare notes. > > > > Ken > > > > Ken, > > I assume you have been looking at what I am doing on the 93's. We > might want to get together in writing the flash prom editors. I have > noticed that other editors don't do very well with some of the single > byte parameters. Mine is being written in VB 4.0, and I will probably > need modules/screens for the TCC, fuel setup, spark setup, and misc > parameters, and probably on a 96 for the trannyu shifting setup. > > Roger ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 13:26:41 -0500 Subject: Re: PWM motor controller GM temp sensor senders aren't linear. There are huge changes in resistance when cold, decreasing as temp increases. In fan country, (210+ degrees), resistance goes from around 185 Ohms @ 210F to 55 at 260. Just a FWIW. Shannen Clarence Wood wrote: > > Thanks for the info! I am planning to use the circuit for cooling fan control; will use water teperature sender instead of 5k pot; is there anything wrong with doing that? > > At 02:15 PM 2/2/99 -0500, you wrote: > > > > > > > >Ok, have it done up. Find in the incoming directory > >a couple of files: > > > > Pwm.txt Write up on circuit > > pwm1.gif Image of schematic > > > > > >Have fun, and let us know how your experiments work out! > > > >BobR. > > > > > >Any questions, just post... > > > >-- > > > > > > ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 13:02:06 -0600 Subject: Re: PWM motor controller At 09:30 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote: (snip) >>4. 470 uf 25V -- only electrolytic ??? > >Electrolytic is fine, and cheap. > (big snip) I am lost on this one! The only 470 I can find on the schematic is a resistor. Where is the 470 uf capacitor used? Clarence ------------------------------ From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 13:49:12 -0600 Subject: RE: fusible link questions GM shop manuals have a chart for fuse link applications and repair of blown links. The manual indicates that the fuse link should be 4 wire sizes smaller than the wire being protected. The only real problem with fuse links is when the crimps become corroded and heat up due to high resistance. > -----Original Message----- > From: AL8001@xxx.com] > Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:32 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: fusible link questions > > >James Weiler wrote: > >> > >> gents, > >> > >> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather > >> than a fuse? Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that > I'm > >> missing? > > > > > > Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few. The > main > advantges I see are: > > 1 Low cost to use. > > 2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of > power. > ( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing) > > 3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout > vital systems. > > 4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out. As > someone > has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity > will pop for no apparent reason. This is from thermal cycleing. > > 5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20) > or a > ATC/ ATO plastic fuse. > > It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead > short ( > pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad > bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse. > > Other trivia. Light bulbs do wear out before burning out. Tunsgsten from > the > hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light > and > the filament starts to develop thin spots. If the glass looks > black/silver or > the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced. > > Mufflers do have bearings. > > It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways. > > > Harold ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:16:22 -0500 Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? At 04:39 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote: >> >> >Pre OBD_I? But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988. Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2... 93 and earlier should work without the rear sensor =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:25:05 -0500 Subject: Re: Chevy ECMs At 09:43 AM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote: >Ernst, > >I haven't disected a 96 unit, so I can't give you a direct >answer. They seem to be very similar in many respects. I >have my 95 apart, socketed the PCM, and I am building a >Flash prom editor for this beast. If someone with a 96 wants >to open his or hers we can compare notes. > Ken, What car is your 95 PCM from? I have an extra I'm dissecting for my 95 LeSabre... Still has a mem-cal, but has EEprom as well (I think...) =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "Andrew K. Mattei" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:26:23 -0500 Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? "David A. Cooley" wrote: > >Pre OBD_I? But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988. > > Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2... 93 and earlier should work > without the rear sensor I'll give you the OBD 1 1/2 - I can't use a paper clip to flash SES codes on my '94 Z28. However, there is *no* O2 sensor after the cat. Know that for a fact. The stock exhaust is sitting in my garage storage closet - and it butts right up to the cat... Plus, the ALDL info available is significantly more for the '94/95 than there was for the '93. Not that more is better, there's just more there... ;) - -Andrew ------------------------------ From: Wayne Macdonald Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 00:45:50 +1100 Subject: RE: Tim Drury article - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE501F.F5CAF600 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit I have a copy of the article and can scan/ocr it in if anyone needs it. Wayne. - ---------- From: steve ravet Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 3:05 AM To: diy_efi Subject: Tim Drury article Several people have written me asking about the distributorless ignition article that Tim Drury wrote. There is a pointer to it on the DIY_EFI page. The article has been unavailable for some time now. Does anyone know the wherabouts of either Tim or his article? - --steve - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE501F.F5CAF600 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+IgEWAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYAYAEAAAEAAAAMAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAAYQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMy LmVuZy5vaGlvLXN0YXRlLmVkdQBTTVRQAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMyLmVuZy5vaGlvLXN0YXRlLmVk dQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAIgAAAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMyLmVuZy5v aGlvLXN0YXRlLmVkdQAAAAMAFQwBAAAAAwD+DwYAAAAeAAEwAQAAACQAAAAnZGl5X2VmaUBlZmkz MzIuZW5nLm9oaW8tc3RhdGUuZWR1JwACAQswAQAAACcAAABTTVRQOkRJWV9FRklARUZJMzMyLkVO Ry5PSElPLVNUQVRFLkVEVQAAAwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAKcSAEEgAEA FgAAAFJFOiBUaW0gRHJ1cnkgYXJ0aWNsZQBVBwEFgAMADgAAAM8HAgAEAAAALQAyAAQAPwEBIIAD AA4AAADPBwIABAAAACwAJwAEADMBAQmAAQAhAAAAQUUwRTlCQzk2NkJCRDIxMTgwQTYwMDEwNEI2 NEQ1ODUAIAcBA5AGAPgDAAAUAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYAAAAAAAsAKQAAAAAAAwAuAAAAAAADADYA AAAAAEAAOQDwj/SCe0++AR4AcAABAAAAFgAAAFJFOiBUaW0gRHJ1cnkgYXJ0aWNsZQAAAAIBcQAB AAAAFgAAAAG+T3uC7MmbDq+7ZhHSgKYAEEtk1YUAAB4AHgwBAAAABQAAAFNNVFAAAAAAHgAfDAEA AAAWAAAAd21jZG9uYWxAaHV0Y2guY29tLmF1AAAAAwAGEGfVarEDAAcQdgEAAB4ACBABAAAAZQAA AElIQVZFQUNPUFlPRlRIRUFSVElDTEVBTkRDQU5TQ0FOL09DUklUSU5JRkFOWU9ORU5FRURTSVRX QVlORS0tLS0tLS0tLS1GUk9NOlNURVZFUkFWRVRTRU5UOldFRE5FU0RBWSwAAAAAAgEJEAEAAABs AgAAaAIAAIkEAABMWkZ1uhUQrv8ACgEPAhUCpAPkBesCgwBQEwNUAgBjaArAc2V07jIGAAbDAoMy A8YHEwKDIjMPemhlbAMgRGzqZwKDNBMNfQqACM8J2eI7F58yNTUCgAqBDbHBC2BuZzEwMxQgCwqL EvIMAWMAQCBJIBHAIHZlIGEgBaBweeAgb2YgdBTwHOAAIMhpY2wc0W5kHQADkZME8ABwL28FACBp BUDvC4AfUB1wAHB5AiAc0CAwNwmABCAfYC4KhQqFV2EOeSAwIO0K9GxpMTiCMALRaS0xNDQN8GcM 0CQTC1kxNgqgA2B0+wWQBUAtJjcKhyTrDDAltvpGA2E6Jz4ltgyCHsAl4PUcwXIcsXQm3yftBmAC MJspHyorVwmAIDBzZCHgwiwowGVicnUKwB1AExrQMFAxOTFQIDM6NDA1E3BNK68n7VRvQy3vKitk aXlfDcBp4zIPLL51Ymol8TQvKit/B2EVMDCgMNEd1SI/I0Mz/jYktxXCDAEtKBzAK1ADINxwZR0g HiEco3cFEAJATQnwIAeAHOBzawuAZ/sc4AbgdQVAHZI2ACrwBRCeYkFgBbAeIAQRaWcDAN8d8AIg CoUd1h2QYTPhOtfzQBAl0S4gM/AU8BegH1DzBCAc8HBvC4Al4AXAQlAHH1ICIB2DRElZX0XsRkkK hQqwZ0V1HccRwMUEIGIJ4SB1bhywC3DfC2ACYBzQAhAFwHMDcEQhkwdxIFBvd0WBRG8Hkdsf9AqF a0vxHYN3RcFBM3sEIB1hZR9gRcE6swWxaPtGEh3kPyD8JjAq8zvfPO4vG9UltgqFFsEAVYADABAQ AAAAAAMAERAAAAAAQAAHMFBPllh7T74BQAAIMFBPllh7T74BHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAAD AA00/TcAAGAY - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE501F.F5CAF600-- ------------------------------ From: Clarence Wood Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 15:38:23 -0600 Subject: RE: fusible link questions Just installed a 100 amp altenator and the guy at the shop who sold me the unit told me to run a line of fusible link (14 Ga) from the Bat. terminal on the alternator to the positive terminal of the batery. The length of fusible link needed was about 4 ft. long. Should I have ran a 3ft 9in wire of 10 Ga and then soldered in a 3 inch piece of 14 Ga fusible link? Clarence At 01:49 PM 2/3/99 -0600, you wrote: >GM shop manuals have a chart for fuse link applications and repair of blown >links. The manual indicates that the fuse link should be 4 wire sizes >smaller than the wire being protected. The only real problem with fuse links >is when the crimps become corroded and >heat up due to high resistance. > >> -----Original Message----- >> From: AL8001@xxx.com] >> Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 10:32 AM >> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >> Subject: Re: fusible link questions >> >> >James Weiler wrote: >> >> >> >> gents, >> >> >> >> Can somebody tell me why fusible links are all the rage now rather >> >> than a fuse? Is there some niffty piece of info on these things that >> I'm >> >> missing? >> > >> > >> >> Fusible links really aren't that new, the 73 Dodge Dart used a few. The >> main >> advantges I see are: >> >> 1 Low cost to use. >> >> 2 No fuse block required, they can be installed close to the source of >> power. >> ( this reduces the length of unprotected wireing) >> >> 3 Circuits can be split up into smaller zones so a failure dosn't takeout >> vital systems. >> >> 4 No/ little chance of the fuse link wearing out. Yes wearing out. As >> someone >> has also posted, regular fuses that are used close to their rated capacity >> will pop for no apparent reason. This is from thermal cycleing. >> >> 5 I "think" fusible links have a lower resistance that a glass ( SFE 20) >> or a >> ATC/ ATO plastic fuse. >> >> It's posible to read a failed fuse, a silver spot usually means a dead >> short ( >> pinched wire) . A melted link is usually a overload ( fan motor with bad >> bearings) or possibily a worn out fuse. >> >> Other trivia. Light bulbs do wear out before burning out. Tunsgsten from >> the >> hot filament coats the inside of the glass reducing the transmitted light >> and >> the filament starts to develop thin spots. If the glass looks >> black/silver or >> the filament looks grainy black/ silver the bulb should be replaced. >> >> Mufflers do have bearings. >> >> It's possible to walk up hill to school both ways. >> >> >> Harold > > ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:53:21 -0500 Subject: Re: OBD II LT1 Engine Swap Gotchas??? At 04:26 PM 2/3/99 -0500, you wrote: >"David A. Cooley" wrote: >> >Pre OBD_I? But that would mean using an ECM that's pre 1988. >> >> Actually, the 94/95 was more like OBD_I 1/2... 93 and earlier should work >> without the rear sensor > >I'll give you the OBD 1 1/2 - I can't use a paper clip to flash SES >codes on my '94 Z28. However, there is *no* O2 sensor after the cat. >Know that for a fact. The stock exhaust is sitting in my garage storage >closet - and it butts right up to the cat... > >Plus, the ALDL info available is significantly more for the '94/95 than >there was for the '93. Not that more is better, there's just more >there... ;) Yep.. I've got a 95 LeSabre with the 3800 V6. No 2nd O2, but there is a temp probe in the exhaust immediately after the cat... I keep thinking the guys on the Impala SS list said there was a 2nd O2 on each bank aftrer the cat, but I copuld be wrong... (Won't be the first time!) =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 I am Pentium of Borg...division is futile...you will be approximated. =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: Teller.John@xxx.com Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 16:49:09 -0500 Subject: Groan... Not another VIRUS alert.... I know. I know. It isn't really EFI related, but... ;) I don't usually forward virus warnings because they're usually hoaxes but this one looks pretty dangerous, so a word to the wise.... IF YOU RECEIVE AN EMAIL ENTITLED "Badtimes", DELETE IT IMMEDIATELY! DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPEN OR READ IT. This one is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. It will not only erase everything on your hard drive, but it will also delete anything on disks within 20 feet of your computer. It demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of your credit cards. It reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on your VCR and uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's you attempt to play. It will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so all your ice cream melts and your milk curdles. It will reprogram your phone autodial to call only your mother-in-law's number. It will reverse the hot and cold water knobs on all your faucets. This virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tank. It will drink all your beer. It will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you are expecting company. Its radioactive emissions will cause your toe jam and bellybutton fuzz (be honest, you have some) to migrate behind your ears. It will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine, all while dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back and billing their hotel rendezvous to your Visa card. It will cause you to run with scissors and throw things in a way that is fun until someone loses an eye. It will give you Dutch Elm Disease and Tinnitus. It will rewrite your backup files, changing all your active verbs to passive tense and incorporating undetectable misspellings which grossly change the interpretation of key sentences. It will leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged in dangerously close to a full bathtub. It will not only remove the forbidden tags from your mattresses and pillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with whole milk. It will cause your sweaters to pill. It will replace all your luncheon meat with Spam. It is insidious and subtle. It is awful and terrifying to behold. Like Byron, it is mad, bad and dangerous to know. These are just a few signs of infection. I consider the bellybutton fuzz warning to be very serious! FORWARD THIS URGENT INFORMATION TO EVERYONE YOU KNOW IMMEDIATELY!!! If you still don't think this is another hoax, I may have a bridge you may be interested in! ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #87 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".