DIY_EFI Digest            Tuesday, 9 February 1999      Volume 04 : Number 109

In this issue:

	Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity
	Re: fusible link questions
	[none]
	Re: fusible link questions
	High grade connectors
	New guy
	Re: High grade connectors
	Re: High grade connectors
	Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity
	Re: fusible link questions
	Re: High grade connectors
	Re: New guy
	Re: High grade connectors
	Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity
	Re: fusible link questions
	Re: CPS for mini
	Re: Diagnosis steps & tools?
	Re: fusible link questions
	Re: High grade connectors
	Re: fusible link questions
	Re: fusible link questions
	Re: BLCC5074 error codes
	Re: CPS for mini
	Re: New guy
	Re: fusible link questions

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:55:26 -0500
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity

- -----Original Message-----
From: James Montebello <jamesm@xxx.com>
To: diy_efi@xxx.edu>
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 7:33 PM
Subject: RE: L-Jetronic peculiarity

Anyone happen to have any data about how often, duty cycle, etc, on this
injector firing strategy?.  
Bruce



>>  The L-Jet has a spark signal from the distributor to get 
>> RPM, but it's not timed to the crank at all, so perhaps Bosch just 
>> drives the injectors at some frequency high enough to make sure no 
>> cylinder goes too long without an injection event.
>Actually, I think Bosch's experience with CIS showed them that 
>simply running the injectors continuously, only varying the 
>flow rate with load, was "good enough".  At least it was for
>US emissions regs up to around 1990.  It's a simple control
>strategy, easy to do with all mechanical or electro-mechanical
>systems.  Now that sufficiently fast digital hardware is so 
>cheap, they can return to the more complicated strategy such
>as the one they employed in the D-Jet system, and do all the
>hard stuff in software.
>james montebello

------------------------------

From: AL8001@xxx.com
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:00:29 EST
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

In a message dated 99-02-08 19:47:19 EST, Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com writes:

> I have read about a
>Japanese Alt. that had a star and delta wound stator. The star had its own 6
>diode bridge and the delta had its own 6 diode bridge. 

This would probably be a Mitsubishi alt.  Quite common on Chrysler 2.6 K cars
and Vans ~81- 87.  I know it has two diode bridges, but never traced out the
stator.

As for the frequency output of a alt, some diesel engines use a freq output to
drive a tach. Gm CS series alts have a regulator with a freq out for this
purpose.  By the way,  CS regulator is of the PWM style.

Someday in my spare time ( HA! ) I'll try to run a alt without diodes up to
110V.  The intended usage is for lighting and running universal motors( brush
type, such as electric drills).  

Harold

------------------------------

From: Marc Piccioni <mpiccioni@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 18:43:51 -0700
Subject: [none]

Group,

I recently joined the group and have participated in the recent CPU buy, 
having just missed out on the driver, I/O group buy and am curious if there 
are sufficient interest to start a new group buy for the driver, I/O and 
eventually BDM parts.

I'd consider taking on 1 the project to buy the driver parts, however, I'm 
located in Canada and this would increase the end cost since 99% of the 
parts (except PCB's) have to come up from the US anyway. Payment would be 
is US $$.

/Marc

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end

------------------------------

From: KD6JDJ@xxx.com
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:07:55 EST
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

  Harold
  Wait --- Dont run that alt. without its diodes. It is probably going to be
difficult to hook a single phase load to a three phase alternator. I realize
that you can use only one of the three, but I'll bet that you wont make the
alternator and its bearings happy.

  You wrote:

someday in my spare time ( HA! ) I'll try to run a alt without diodes up to
110V.  The intended usage is for lighting and running universal motors( brush
type, such as electric drills).  

Harold

   

------------------------------

From: "James Montebello" <jamesm@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 18:47:33 -0800
Subject: High grade connectors

Can anyone point me to a mail-order (a Web store would be excellent)
source of good weatherproof electrical connectors?  I don't need think
I need Mil-Spec or aerospace grade, but something better than the stuff
you'd see at a typical hardware store.  The car I hack on has an engine
compartment that's pretty much open to the weather, so I need them to be
rugged.


james montebello

------------------------------

From: "Howard, Randolph E" <Randolph.Howard@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 19:34:01 -0800 
Subject: New guy

Hi,
In case you thought you were the dumbest guy on the list when it came to EFI, I am here to save you :)  I am building a Lotus Seven replica and intend to use a Toyota 4A-GE, 20 valve, if I can find a good one.  I had one lined up last week but passed on it because it did not include an AFM.  I have been told that isn't such a big deal and that another AFM off a different motor probably could be made to work.  Does this sound like a reasonable approach or should I steer clear of the hassle and continue looking for a complete set-up?  Also, another guy said that racers in his country are able to replace the factory ECU with an aftermarket one and run without an AFM.  What!?  Is this what a MAP system does?  Obviously I have a bit to learn here so please be patient.  Maybe someone can recommend some good primer reading to help me get on board.  Thanks.


Randy Howard
4A-GE Lotus Seven project
"Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it -
boldness has genius, power, and magic in it." -Goethe

------------------------------

From: steve ravet <steve.ravet@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:36:56 +0000
Subject: Re: High grade connectors

There's a place that sells GM weatherpak connectors.  If you haven't
seen them it's what GM has used since the late 80s or so.  Nice, and
sealed w/rubber gasket.  Search in the diy_efi archives using
"weatherpack and steve and ravet" and you'll turn up the post.

- --steve

James Montebello wrote:
> 
> Can anyone point me to a mail-order (a Web store would be excellent)
> source of good weatherproof electrical connectors?  I don't need think
> I need Mil-Spec or aerospace grade, but something better than the stuff
> you'd see at a typical hardware store.  The car I hack on has an engine
> compartment that's pretty much open to the weather, so I need them to be
> rugged.
> 
> james montebello

- -- 
Steve Ravet
ARM, INC
steve.ravet@xxx.com
www.arm.com

------------------------------

From: Roger Heflin  <rah@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:03:32 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: High grade connectors

I think a company called painless wiring has them.  I believe they are
at least in the jegs catalog, and maybe the summit catalog.  I had to
buy some 3 connector ones to convert my O2 sensors from a 1-wire to a
3-wire.  They have up to 6-wire connectors and come with both the male
and female connectors.  They are called weather pack connectors in the
catalog, but seem to be exactly the same as the ones GM uses.

			Roger

On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, steve ravet wrote:

> There's a place that sells GM weatherpak connectors.  If you haven't
> seen them it's what GM has used since the late 80s or so.  Nice, and
> sealed w/rubber gasket.  Search in the diy_efi archives using
> "weatherpack and steve and ravet" and you'll turn up the post.
> 
> --steve
> 
> James Montebello wrote:
> > 
> > Can anyone point me to a mail-order (a Web store would be excellent)
> > source of good weatherproof electrical connectors?  I don't need think
> > I need Mil-Spec or aerospace grade, but something better than the stuff
> > you'd see at a typical hardware store.  The car I hack on has an engine
> > compartment that's pretty much open to the weather, so I need them to be
> > rugged.
> > 
> > james montebello
> 
> -- 
> Steve Ravet
> ARM, INC
> steve.ravet@xxx.com
> www.arm.com
> 

------------------------------

From: Mike Morrin <mikem@xxx.nz>
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:14:36 +1300
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity

At 07:55 pm 08/02/99 -0500, Bruce Plecan wrote:
>
>Anyone happen to have any data about how often, duty cycle, etc, on this
>injector firing strategy?.  
>
>>>  The L-Jet has a spark signal from the distributor to get 
>>> RPM, but it's not timed to the crank at all,

Don't have experience with the actual Bosch (or Toyota) units, but the
Lucas units used on Jags (more or less Bosch-under-licence) fire the
injectors every 360 engine degrees.  The V12s do this in 2 banks, with an
02 sensor per bank.  In this case one bank of injectors is fired every 3
sparks, not sure if the 6 cylinder units are in 2 banks or 1.

It seems to have the disadvantage that the injectors are fired twice as
often as needed, halving the pulse width, which cannot improve metering
accuracy at idle.

Mike

------------------------------

From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 23:17:55 -0500
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

AL8001@xxx.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-02-08 19:47:19 EST, Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com writes:
> 
> > I have read about a
> >Japanese Alt. that had a star and delta wound stator. The star had its own 6
> >diode bridge and the delta had its own 6 diode bridge.
> 
> This would probably be a Mitsubishi alt.  Quite common on Chrysler 2.6 K cars
> and Vans ~81- 87.  I know it has two diode bridges, but never traced out the
> stator.
> 
> As for the frequency output of a alt, some diesel engines use a freq output to
> drive a tach. Gm CS series alts have a regulator with a freq out for this
> purpose.  By the way,  CS regulator is of the PWM style.
> 
> Someday in my spare time ( HA! ) I'll try to run a alt without diodes up to
> 110V.  The intended usage is for lighting and running universal motors( brush
> type, such as electric drills).
> 
> Harold
Leave the diodes in and use DC, otherwise you have to load-ballance the
3 phase AC.

------------------------------

From: Sandy <sganz@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 20:28:48 -0800
Subject: Re: High grade connectors

This is an old email I saved, may be useful for connectors -


>>> FROM OLD EMAIL <<<<

Having done motorsports electrics for years in both early Ford and later
GM programs, I can highly reccommend Packard SXL wire, a 125 deg C cross
linked version, MUCH better than anything other than Raychem which costs
over 10 x as much. The wire plus other Packard products such as Packard
brand Weatherpack crimping pliers, weather pack connector, metripack, and
older 56 series straight blade connectors are available from a packard
disb in MN called:
			Waytek Inc
			PO Box 690
			Chanhassen, MN 55317-0690
			800-328-2724
			612-949-0765

Prices you will love. Examples:
			3 cond, tower weatherpack	$0.37  sorry Steve
			3 cond, shroud   "		$0.24

			18 ga SXL wire,125C		about $35/ 1000ft
			(this is like prod wire)

	You can take this wire and hold a Bic lighter to it
	for 15 sec, and just wipe off soot-wire  is fine
			WP 18 ga terminals		$6.00/100

A number of years ago, when I was buying in high volume, I called
Packard direct at 800-722-5273

Waytek also carries heat shrink, terminals, etc.
Heat shrink is good. Terminals are cheap and ok for production. For
racing, I used T&B, they are the best but 4-5 times as expensive.

Hope above helped.

Save that waytek # and ask for a catalog. You won't be sorry and your
pocketbook will be happy.

Regards,

Frank Parker
Motorsports Data Acquisition

					

------------------------------

From: steve ravet <steve.ravet@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:19:59 +0000
Subject: Re: New guy

"Howard, Randolph E" wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> In case you thought you were the dumbest guy on the list when it came to EFI, I am here to save you :)  I am building a Lotus Seven replica and intend to use a Toyota 4A-GE, 20 valve, if I can find a good one.  I had one lined up last week but passed on it because it did not include an AFM.  I have been told that isn't 
Don't know much about Toyota AFMs, but that seems like a small point if
it was a good deal otherwise.  Surely that AFM is available in junkyards
or at the dealer? I wouldn't try to adapt another unless you know for
sure it works and for some reason you can't get another stock one.

>such a big deal and that another AFM off a different motor probably could be made to work.  Does this sound like a reasonable approach or should I steer clear of the hassle and continue looking for a complete set-up?  Also, another guy said that racers in his country are able to replace the factory ECU with an aftermarket one and run without an AFM.  What!?  Is this what a MAP system does?  Obviously I 
MAP does away with the need for a flow meter, although it means "hard
coding" your volumetric efficiency in a table.  A worthwile tradeoff
according to what a lot of people here say.  There are plenty of
aftermarket systems available but they all seem pretty pricey.  Nothing
like sticking with factory stuff if you have the time to make it work.

have a bit to learn here so please be patient.  Maybe someone can
recommend some good primer reading to help me get on board.  Thanks.

Start with the DIY_EFI archives, you can get there from the main diy_efi
page, efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/diy_efi.  Also check out the reference
list, lots of good books listed.

welcome aboard, have fun.

- --steve


- -- 
Steve Ravet
ARM, INC
steve.ravet@xxx.com
www.arm.com

------------------------------

From: Tom Sharpe <twsharpe@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:28:01 -0600
Subject: Re: High grade connectors

GM WeatherPack

James Montebello wrote:

> Can anyone point me to a mail-order (a Web store would be excellent)
> source of good weatherproof electrical connectors?  I don't need think
> I need Mil-Spec or aerospace grade, but something better than the stuff
> you'd see at a typical hardware store.  The car I hack on has an engine
> compartment that's pretty much open to the weather, so I need them to be
> rugged.
>
> james montebello

------------------------------

From: "Clarence L.Snyder" <clare.snyder.on.ca@xxx.net>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 23:54:14 -0500
Subject: Re: L-Jetronic peculiarity

Mike Morrin wrote:
> 
> At 07:55 pm 08/02/99 -0500, Bruce Plecan wrote:
> >
> >Anyone happen to have any data about how often, duty cycle, etc, on this
> >injector firing strategy?.
> >
> >>>  The L-Jet has a spark signal from the distributor to get
> >>> RPM, but it's not timed to the crank at all,
> 
> Don't have experience with the actual Bosch (or Toyota) units, but the
> Lucas units used on Jags (more or less Bosch-under-licence) fire the
> injectors every 360 engine degrees.  The V12s do this in 2 banks, with an
> 02 sensor per bank.  In this case one bank of injectors is fired every 3
> sparks, not sure if the 6 cylinder units are in 2 banks or 1.
> 
> It seems to have the disadvantage that the injectors are fired twice as
> often as needed, halving the pulse width, which cannot improve metering
> accuracy at idle.
> 
> Mike
Toyota- with NipponDenso manufactured version of Bosh L Jet uses all
injectors tied together on many of the diagrams I have from 1983 on. "79
to '82 they were (2) batched - 2 sets of 3. The '86 to '88 cressida are
(2)batched, as is the '88 Land Cruiser, and all MR2s to '88.The pickup
and 4-runner in '85 to '88 aretied together, except for the turbo, which
is (2)batched. The '88 v6 p'up and 4 runner are (2)batched. 83 to '86
supra are (2) batched. The '86 1/2 to '88 Supra is fired  in 3 pairs, or
(3) batched . Interstingly, the Subaru MPFI (also an L Jet) batch fires
2 at a time on the non turbo, and separately in 1985 and '86. These are
SPFI units in name - and sure look to be. They are also, technically
Bosch L Jets.. Look at the diagram for Nissan, and virtually all have
each injector separately wired.

Which just goes to show ya they are not all the same, by any stretch of
the imagination. Some are batch, some multi-batch, some individual, and
some even sequential, yet all are L-Jetronic.

------------------------------

From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@xxx.nz>
Date: 09 Feb 99 17:50:05 +1200
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

KD6JDJ <KD6JDJ@xxx.com> wrote:

>  [[ I am curious about how a professor has determined that automotive
>alternator diodes will have a forward voltage drop of 2 volts.]]

Most people think that a forward biased diode drops a constant voltage no
matter what the current. This is not true. There is a small rise in resistance
as the current increases.

I have measured this over a few orders of magnatude of current.

I'm not sure, but I seem to remember that there is an exponential rise in
resistance, but I can't really remember.

The diodes in the alternator are passing 100A or more, so even a small
increase in resistance with current can produce a significant drop.

2V at 100A seems reasonable to me. The only way to tell is to measure it
though.

- --
Tom Parker - tparker@xxx.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/

------------------------------

From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@xxx.nz>
Date: 09 Feb 99 17:54:00 +1200
Subject: Re: CPS for mini

Onebil2mny <Onebil2mny@xxx.com> wrote:

>In a message dated 2/8/1999 5:47:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>tparker@xxx.nz writes:

><< I'm a bit wary of drilling my flywheel as it has already been lightned,
>and it
> sits in front of me with only a few layers of sheetmetal between my 'nads
> and flying death should it explode.
>
> With an already somewhat unsafe maximum of 8000 rpm, I don't want to tempt
> >>


>Ummm......  did you ever think about making a blow sheild??

>Bill (don't wanna yell OUCH!) K

Thought about it, but haven't yet. I try and avoid spinning it up that far!

Anyone have any ideas on what to make it out of? I've seen one made of a sheet
of quite thin stainless steel.

- --
Tom Parker - tparker@xxx.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/

------------------------------

From: Tedscj@xxx.com
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 00:12:46 EST
Subject: Re: Diagnosis steps & tools?

In a message dated 2/8/99 5:03:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tyuhas@xxx.edu writes:

<< Mine has an auto trans.  I had thought about trying out other proms.  Is
 it basically that if the donor has the same computer, same engine, and is
 either MAF or not (to match my car), then it's a decent candidate? 
  >>

Yes, In fact the Grand Prix I got my prom from was actually a 727 instead of a
730 computer, but they are really the same guts.  It worked for me and solved
my problems even when cleaning my IAC and using different IACs from other
junkyard cars didn't (solve my problem.)  But maybe I was just lucky.

------------------------------

From: Raymond C Drouillard <cosmic.ray@xxx.com>
Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 23:50:32 -0500
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

<snip, rearrange>

>I discussed this very thing with one of my electronics professors.  Yes,
>silicon diodes drop 0.6 or 0.7 volts normally.  The diodes in an
>automotive alternater, however, will drop more like 2V under heavy load.

>  [[ I am curious about how a professor has determined that automotive
>alternator diodes will have a forward voltage drop of 2 volts.]] 

It was a while back.  I believe it has to do with the current density and
the resultant number of electrons and holes.  I don't think that it has
to do with the temperature of the silicon, since silicon conducts better
as it gets warmer.  He has worked on them, so I believe him because of
his experience.


>  There is no standard that restricts the automotive alternator to being
delta
>connected. there are MANY Y connected stators. In fact, I thought that
most
>alternators were Y connected. I assume it is clear that a given stator
will
>produce a lot more current when it is DELTA connected compared with when
it is
>Y connected. The RPM for max output will differ greatly of course.eilds
or
>stator, or both.

I don't know whicht is prevelant.  The alternater from my wife's Saturn
was wired in delta.  Either configuration will result in the same maximum
power, although characteristics of the field current and output current
in relation to the speed will be different.

>
>     Jerry
>

Ray

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------------------------------

From: "Michael D. Porter" <mdporter@xxx.com>
Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:50:45 -0700
Subject: Re: High grade connectors

James Montebello wrote:
> 
> Can anyone point me to a mail-order (a Web store would be excellent)
> source of good weatherproof electrical connectors?  I don't need think
> I need Mil-Spec or aerospace grade, but something better than the stuff
> you'd see at a typical hardware store.  The car I hack on has an engine
> compartment that's pretty much open to the weather, so I need them to be
> rugged.

Two possibilities--Packard WeatherPack, which someone has already
mentioned. Try this to get an email address for a list of distributors:

http://www.delphiauto.com/electric/electric.html 

There's also another weathertight connector manufacturer out there,
Deutsch:

This is the link for the only distributor I could find in short order:

http://www.richeyelec.com/

Deutsch makes connectors similar to Weatherpack, but almost all I've
seen are in rectangular pack, while the Packard line has a wide variety
of connector packages.

Deutsch claims that, properly assembled, their connectors are
operational to three feet underwater. In actual practice, we do find
that they leak, but that, I believe, is mostly due to our own engineers'
incompetence (i.e., running a bare shield wire connection through the
seal on the connector, which wicks water like crazy). The sealing design
and seal materials for both Packard and Deutsch appear to be very
similar--both are likely some form of silicone rubber. 

The clear advantage that I can see for the Packard is that a number of
their smaller (6-pin and under) packages will take differing wire and
seal sizes, while the Deutsch has a common seal with many holes for the
same size wire. Okay if you're bundling many wires of the same gauge,
but not okay if there's lots of variance in wire size.

Cheers.

------------------------------

From: KD6JDJ@xxx.com
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 01:23:15 EST
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

  Tom
  I'm too lazy to measure some. And I often make mistakes when I set up
projects in my garage. I did E-mail a friend who often has data on
semiconducters. If you get any data , or data sheets, please pass on to me any
information on forward voltage drop of Si diodes. I will let you know what I
measure , or learn.

The diodes in the alternator are passing 100A or more, so even a small
increase in resistance with current can produce a significant drop.

2V at 100A seems reasonable to me. The only way to tell is to measure it
though.

- --
Tom Parker 

    Thanks
                      Jerry

------------------------------

From: KD6JDJ@xxx.com
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 01:45:42 EST
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

  Ray
  I'm getting old I guess. I cant see how a given stator will give the same
power out independent if it is connected either Y or Delta. The Delta will
deliver a lot more current to load than a Y. Sure, the Y connection will
deliver more voltage at the low RPMs but the delta connection will provide
perhaps twice the current at high RPM.

  I refer to your statement:
I don't know whicht is prevelant.  The alternater from my wife's Saturn
was wired in delta.  Either configuration will result in the same maximum
power, although characteristics of the field current and output current
in relation to the speed will be different.

  Perhaps you are saying that an alternator can be made to deliver the same
power, yet be either Y or delta connected.

  We are probably getting too far off the EFI track.

    Jerry

------------------------------

From: "Ross Myers" <ponty@xxx.au>
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 17:51:21 +1100
Subject: Re: BLCC5074 error codes

>Was poking around in the BLCC5074 code recently uploaded (sorry...forgot
the
>poster's name) and came across some malfunction codes I'm not familiar
with.
>Does the poster (or anyone familiar with this Holden 5L V8 (non-Chevy) BLCC
>combination) know the related systems for the following codes:
>
>17
>19
>26  (QDM fault maybe?)
>27
>36  (vacuum leak maybe?)
>46  (VATS fail?)
>56
>57
>66
>72


Mike,

I finally dug up the error code info for you.

17 - ECU processor failure (CTS circuit).
19 - TPS Stuck.
26 - MAT sensor voltage unstable.
27 - Not Listed.
36 - Vac Leak.
46 - No Ref pulses whilst cranking.
56 - Running Lean Under Load.
57 - Injector voltage fault.
66 - Not listed
72 - Not listed

The not listed codes maybe Trans codes (Which my book didn't cover).

Regards

Ross Myers

------------------------------

From: "Michael D. Porter" <mdporter@xxx.com>
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 00:08:12 -0700
Subject: Re: CPS for mini

Tom Parker wrote:
> 
> > With an already somewhat unsafe maximum of 8000 rpm, I don't want to tempt
> > >>
> 
> >Ummm......  did you ever think about making a blow sheild??
> 
> >Bill (don't wanna yell OUCH!) K
> 
> Thought about it, but haven't yet. I try and avoid spinning it up that far!
> 
> Anyone have any ideas on what to make it out of? I've seen one made of a sheet
> of quite thin stainless steel.

Stainless may be pretty, but, as the old cigarette ad said, it's what's
up front that counts. When I first starting crewing on a stock car, I
pulled off the trans cover, and found a long tear in the 1/4" thick
steel bellhousing, about eight inches long, where a chunk of something
had gone through it. That car had an engine in it which was worn out,
and probably wasn't capable of reaching its potential redline of 6800
rpm. I would say that a thin bit of stainless probably won't cut it when
the clutch and/or flywheel comes apart. If it's a big clutch and
flywheel, 1/4" plate would be the minimum.... (!)

Cheers.

------------------------------

From: Matthew Harding <mharding@xxx.au>
Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 18:10:21 +1100
Subject: Re: New guy

At 07:34  8/02/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi,
>In case you thought you were the dumbest guy on the list when it came to
EFI, I am here to save you :)  I am building a Lotus Seven replica and
intend to use a Toyota 4A-GE, 20 valve, if I can find a good one.  I had
one lined up last week but passed on it because it did not include an AFM.
I have been told that isn't such a big deal and that another AFM off a
different motor probably could be made to work.  Does this sound like a
reasonable approach or should I steer clear of the hassle and continue
looking for a complete set-up?  Also, another guy said that racers in his
country are able to replace the factory ECU with an aftermarket one and run
without an AFM.  What!?  Is this what a MAP system does?  Obviously I have
a bit to learn here so please be patient.  Maybe someone can recommend some
good primer reading to help me get on board.  Thanks.
>
>
>Randy Howard
>4A-GE Lotus Seven project
>"Whatever you can do, or dream you can, begin it -
>boldness has genius, power, and magic in it." -Goethe


A friend of mine runs a corolla sports sedan with a 20 valve 4A-GE... he
runs quad throttle bodies (i don't know if they are standard or not) and NO
AFM, only a MAP sensor.  I think he had to run a vacuum line from more than
one of the runners to get enough of a reading, but now that it's sorted it
runs fine, there if no need whatsoever for a AFM with an aftermarket ECU.

He is using an Injec system

------------------------------

From: "Tom Parker" <tparker@xxx.nz>
Date: 09 Feb 99 20:49:15 +1200
Subject: Re: fusible link questions

KD6JDJ <KD6JDJ@xxx.com> wrote:

>  Tom
>  I'm too lazy to measure some. And I often make mistakes when I set up
>projects in my garage. I did E-mail a friend who often has data on
>semiconducters. If you get any data , or data sheets, please pass on to me
>any information on forward voltage drop of Si diodes. I will let you know
>what I measure , or learn.

I don't have any datasheets, or anything like that. Just a recolection of an
experiment I did last year.

- --
Tom Parker - tparker@xxx.nz
           - http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/8381/

------------------------------

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