DIY_EFI Digest Friday, 19 February 1999 Volume 04 : Number 123 In this issue: SV: Air Filter Pontiac Fiero/Firebird Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: multimeter advice needed Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Diacom cable... Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) RE: STREET DYNO FREE Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) GM ECM programming Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Re: GM ECM programming RE: STREET DYNO FREE RE: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Taking Orders...7730 7730 Orders Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Re: 3 wire O2 sensor Re: 3 wire O2 sensor Re: 3 wire O2 sensor Re: I just read it and realized....... Re: ford injector sensor price (fuel pressure sensor) See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Gustaf Ulander" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:46:57 +0100 Subject: SV: Air Filter Pontiac Fiero/Firebird - ---------- > Från: Ludis Langens > > Imagine a regular air filter for a carburetor. Decrease the diameter by > half, and make it four times taller. In a Fiero, it breathes backwards > - the housing (part of the car) pipes outside air to the inside of the > filter, the throttle body is fed from the outside of the filter. > > The filter is just a hollow cylinder with both ends open. To use it, > you will need to build a housing. OK, doesn't sound like the thing for me then. Awkward it sounds too... Thanks for the info, you've been a lot of help! Regards Gustaf ------------------------------ From: Steve Gorkowski Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:17:28 -0600 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed I think this is the way to go I have a 2000 engine in a pinto and have a reworked head with port work done that i will sell cheap. I just must be biased toward Ford. Steve Jim Yeagley wrote: > Ted, > > Although turbo V-6 Buicks and countless import configurations offer great > performance gains, I would rather agree with Frederick about the Ford > Turbo-4. Not only many T-Birds, but Mustangs and SVO Mustangs, too. Most > came with Borg-Warner T-5 5spd trans, also. I don't know where you live or > what kind of connections you have at yards, but you're probably sure to find > this Ford setup to be waaay cheaper than imports and Buick SEFI Turbo'd 6's. > > The Turbo-4 was an excellent performer in my 120,000 mile GT350 Mustang, but > if you want more Ford Motorsports sells cams, heads, etc for these motors. > An SVO Mustang adds intercooler for more go-power, and my favorite low buck > mod is a vacuum solenoid plumbed in the wastegate hose, that bleeds boost > pressure to atmosphere when a switch is thrown. Instant "wow!" You'd have > to look into that computer to avoid the violent "shutdown" when boost > pressures go above 12-15 psi. > > I'm cheap, but I like to call myself practical. > > Jim Yeagley > Member: www.indyram.org > webmaster@xxx.org > jimyeagley@xxx.net ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:12:01 -0500 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > Trust me, you do NOT want the 2.6 Mitsu. It is a pig from the word go - > > severe timing chain/balance shaft problems, along with oil consumption > > See, I gotta disagree here... had a 81 reliant (college car) > that died at 160 with only a head gasket and a timing belt > being replaced, aside from the usual maintanence stuff. > > Noisy, but very reliable! > > -- > Frederic Breitwieser > Bridgeport, CT 06606 > > http://www.xephic.dynip.com > 1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental > 1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440) > 2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6) Has no timing belt - has six feet of chain and half a dozen tensioners - all of which stretch and / or break. Mine broke the counterbalance drive chain (actually, took the teeth off the crank sprocket - the chain came out in one piece but about 2" too long!!!), which also drives the oil pump. The idiot light did not work, so the crank spun a main bearing and the cam ate the bearings out of the head. All because of a design flaw in the oil flow at the rear countershaft bearings. The cam and dist run off the OTHER chain, so the engine didn't quit till it was DEAD. ------------------------------ From: Darryl Snover Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:49:59 -0500 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed I hafta chime in on these 2.6 engines: While working full time as a mechanic (before I started computer programming, but that is another story), I observed _way_ too many of the 2.6 Mitsu based engines with severe head-related problems, and also more than a fair share of timing chain related failures. The heads usually crack in a number of places, and so the engine will first overheat. The Chrysler minivans with these engines seem to fail the most (probably because of the load factor). Cylinder heads are available at salvage yards, but it is hard to find one that isn't cracked. Most yards know this, too. Just my $.02 Best, Darryl Snover >Frederic Breitwieser wrote: >> >> > Trust me, you do NOT want the 2.6 Mitsu. It is a pig from the word go - >> > severe timing chain/balance shaft problems, along with oil consumption >> >> See, I gotta disagree here... had a 81 reliant (college car) >> that died at 160 with only a head gasket and a timing belt >> being replaced, aside from the usual maintanence stuff. >> >> Noisy, but very reliable! >> >> -- >> Frederic Breitwieser >> Bridgeport, CT 06606 >> >> http://www.xephic.dynip.com >> 1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental >> 1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440) >> 2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6) >Has no timing belt - has six feet of chain and half a dozen tensioners - >all of which stretch and / or break. Mine broke the counterbalance drive >chain (actually, took the teeth off the crank sprocket - the chain came >out in one piece but about 2" too long!!!), which also drives the oil >pump. The idiot light did not work, so the crank spun a main bearing and >the cam ate the bearings out of the head. All because of a design flaw >in the oil flow at the rear countershaft bearings. The cam and dist run >off the OTHER chain, so the engine didn't quit till it was DEAD. ------------------------------ From: Frederic Breitwieser Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 15:46:31 +0000 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed > the cam ate the bearings out of the head. All because of a design flaw > in the oil flow at the rear countershaft bearings. The cam and dist run > off the OTHER chain, so the engine didn't quit till it was DEAD. Sorry for your misfortune sir... guess either I had good luck, or you had back luck... the car ran faily well and lasted many, many miles. Which suprised me actually considering how little I paid for it. - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport, CT 06606 http://www.xephic.dynip.com 1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental 1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440) 2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6) ------------------------------ From: "R. W. Hughes" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:56:27 -0600 Subject: Re: multimeter advice needed > > > It would be ideal if it could measure current by an inductive pick-up. > > > Don't know if all this is possible at a reasonable price, I may be asking > > > too much. > > > > Tenma makes a hall-effect clamp-on that puts out 1mv per amp ac or dc > > with pretty good frequency reponse. I think it is 1000amps full scale > > and minimum resolution will be in the .1 to 1 amp range. Look for a > > meter with 200mv range if you want to use one of these. > > Will this work with any meter? Does it need batteries or something? > Tenma 72-6174 AC/DC Current clamp Input:600A max Output:1mV/A Max Working Voltage:480VAC/600VDC uses one 9V battery, has power on and batttery low leds, output cable is about 6 foot(stretched) curly cord with two banana plugs which match most digital multimeters. Also has a zero adjustment which must be adjusted to remove effect of external fields. Puts out dc voltage for dc current, ac voltage for ac current, and biased ac for ac ripple on a dc current, of course. Works quite well except now you have two little boxes to carry around but the remote display is often an advantage. - -- Robert W. Hughes (Bob) BackYard Engineering Houston, Texas rwhughe@xxx.net ------------------------------ From: kv@xxx.com Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:40:21 -0700 Subject: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? They have 4 ground electrodes. My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. Any Comments? KV. ________________________________________________ Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com ------------------------------ From: "Derek Jewett" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:48:31 -0800 Subject: Diacom cable... Has anyone on the list ever found a "working" schematic of the cable...? Many months ago I went through several different schematics, and though they did work, they did not work on later ECM's such as GM 747's, I was able to get them to work on older ECM's (such as feedback carb ecm's) please cc a reply to this address as I am not currently subscribed thanks ps the latest schematic I have found was at http://www.coil.com/~apollo/diacom/crack.html ------------------------------ From: "Clarence L.Snyder" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:58:13 -0500 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > the cam ate the bearings out of the head. All because of a design flaw > > in the oil flow at the rear countershaft bearings. The cam and dist run > > off the OTHER chain, so the engine didn't quit till it was DEAD. > > Sorry for your misfortune sir... guess either I had good > luck, or you had back luck... the car ran faily well and > lasted many, many miles. Which suprised me actually > considering how little I paid for it. > > -- > Frederic Breitwieser > Bridgeport, CT 06606 > > http://www.xephic.dynip.com > 1993 Superchaged Lincoln Continental > 1989 500cid Turbocharged HWMMV > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab (soon to be twin turbo 440) > 2000 Buick GTP (twin turbo V6) As a mechanic I ran into LOTS of grief with them - and my brother still does. ------------------------------ From: "Xwiredtva" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:35:22 -0400 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce race engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive applications your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because it uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one and plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how it sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they don't work on your vehicle. Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to put out more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no difference. > >Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? They >have 4 ground electrodes. > >My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on >Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They >contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare >findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. > >Any Comments? > >KV. > >________________________________________________ > Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development > 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com > > > ------------------------------ From: Aaron Willis Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:19:14 -0800 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed - -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:53:15 -0800 From: Aaron Willis To: diy_efi@xxx.edu References: Wen Yen Chan wrote: > > Hello, > > How about the Honda/Acura B16c6 (160HP), B18c1 (176HP) & b18c4 (215HP) > engines. If I remember correctly they are available for about $3000, $5500 > & $7500 cnd. (engine, tranny, mounts, computer, harness, manifolds). In > addition there are tons of aftermarket parts available for those three > engines. These engines are pretty light. I can lift the tranny on my own > and the engine with the help of one or two other guys. > > thanks > Wen > The Honda engines rotate backwards, according to Road & Track. (Apparently the new S2000 roadster is the first in a long time to rotate with the rest of the world.) This was one of the engines I considered for my MGB, but the counterclockwise (from the front) rotation turned me off. I finally decided on a Nissan 240SX motor, as they are plenty big and the local yard would make me a great deal, as there was no call for them...they don't break and are typically not abused, according to them. I think we were talking about $1200-1500 for an engine, trans, and ECU. The engine bay appeared to be plenty spacious, but I think I was going to have to relocate the heater. Having sold the MGB (it was wrecked anyway), I turned my attention to my old Corolla, which has a 3T-C, 1770cc pushrod Hemi. These are VERY stout, dirt-cheap, rev-happy, and fairly compact. The only problem is that the crossmember would likely require some mods to accomodate the front-sump configuration, and they are not EFI, if that is a big deal. A nice-looking EFI manifold is available from Jay-Tech, using 5.0 Ford style throttle body etc. A friend of mine put a 3T-C in his wife's Bugeye, stock internally with a home port job and single DCOE, and we *estimate* (FWIW) he is getting around 130 hp. If you want more, try and locate a 2T-GE, which is the twincam EFI version we never got in the States. Chuck a 3T crank in for 1770cc (instead of 1588).Parts can be a bit sticky in the US, but the head is quite a bit better than the pushrod motor. John's Cars (Jaguar V8 conversion specialists) will turn you on to someone who sells plans or a kit for the little 2.6/2.8 Ford Cologne (Capri/Ranger) V6, although they do not sell the stuff themselves. Just my $.02 here, as always- Aaron Willis ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:19:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, Darryl Snover wrote: > I hafta chime in on these 2.6 engines: While working full time as a > mechanic (before I started computer programming, but that is another > story), I observed _way_ too many of the 2.6 Mitsu based engines with > severe head-related problems, IIRC, there was a large class-action suit over this problem in the US years ago. ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 13:36:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) - -----Original Message----- From: Xwiredtva To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:41 PM Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Another trick item... The only cars/trucks/vans/motorcycles/weed wackers/tractors/generators/leaf blowers/ snowmobiles/or any othe ICE that benefits from them is one were the ignition system is less than optimim, IHMO. Jus gimme and ol AC, or autolite thank you very much. Bruce >Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce race >engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive applications >your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because it >uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one and >plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how it >sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they don't >work on your vehicle. > Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to put out >more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. > Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no difference. > >> >>Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? They >>have 4 ground electrodes. >> >>My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on >>Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They >>contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare >>findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. >> >>Any Comments? >> >>KV. >> >>________________________________________________ >> Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development >> 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 13:45:11 -0500 Subject: RE: STREET DYNO FREE Stuart, anyone, Has anyone been able to download this? I've tried multiple times but it just times out. Could someone attach the file to me? Thanks. rick jemisonr@xxx.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Stuart Bunning [SMTP:stuart@xxx.au] > Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999 5:07 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: STREET DYNO FREE > > > Look what I found... > > And it's not $50 its free ! > > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5837/StreetDyno.html > > (OK IF YOU ALREADY KNOW SORRY!) > > > Stuart > Australia > 1 * 1988 VN Commodore Buick 3.8l V6 (Aussie GM Vehicle 808) > 1 * 1976 Chrysler Charger 4.3l Hemi 6 with DELCO P4 808 > 1 * Bench ECU for testing and playing 808 > > Email: stuart@xxx.au > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > ------------------------------ From: yaron sadot Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 21:12:39 +0200 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) kv@xxx.com wrote: > Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? They > have 4 ground electrodes. > > My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on > Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They > contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare > findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. > > Any Comments? > > KV. > > ________________________________________________ > Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development > 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com i did try splitfire on my alfa 33 1.7 & found that after some time they lost "power" & when puled out they didnt look too good. about bosch- they didnt hold it too & i replaced them back to golden lodge. try silverstone plugs as i heard they are the only ones that are real good. yaron ------------------------------ From: James P Hunt Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 14:31:15 -0500 Subject: GM ECM programming I am planning to add a turbo charger to my '85 2.8L 60* V-6 Auto, and I need to know where I can find info on the language(?) the GM EMC uses, as I don't feel like paying three grand for a turbo kit when I can do the work myself, I have looked on the internet for this info, but the search engine keeps giving me the wrong stuff. TIA James H. Valrico, FL war_machine1@xxx.com '82 Honda CB650 '85 Fiero 2m6 SC ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ------------------------------ From: ARoss10661@xxx.com Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 15:16:18 EST Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE In a message dated 2/19/99 12:58:36 PM Central Standard Time, JemisonR@xxx.com writes: << Has anyone been able to download this? I've tried multiple times but it just times out. Could someone attach the file to me? Thanks. >> I got it if u keep having problems let me know I will email it to u Al ------------------------------ From: yaron sadot Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:01:45 +0200 Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE Jemison Richard wrote: > Stuart, anyone, > > Has anyone been able to download this? I've tried multiple times but it > just times out. Could someone attach the file to me? > Thanks. > > rick > > jemisonr@xxx.com > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Stuart Bunning [SMTP:stuart@xxx.au] > > Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999 5:07 PM > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > Subject: STREET DYNO FREE > > > > > > Look what I found... > > > > And it's not $50 its free ! > > > > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/5837/StreetDyno.html > > > > (OK IF YOU ALREADY KNOW SORRY!) > > > > > > Stuart > > Australia > > 1 * 1988 VN Commodore Buick 3.8l V6 (Aussie GM Vehicle 808) > > 1 * 1976 Chrysler Charger 4.3l Hemi 6 with DELCO P4 808 > > 1 * Bench ECU for testing and playing 808 > > > > Email: stuart@xxx.au > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > > >il send it to u. what about that voltage divider? yaron 33 1.7 ------------------------------ From: yaron sadot Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:10:50 +0200 Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE ARoss10661@xxx.com wrote: > In a message dated 2/19/99 12:58:36 PM Central Standard Time, JemisonR@xxx.com > writes: > > << Has anyone been able to download this? I've tried multiple times but it > just times out. Could someone attach the file to me? > Thanks. >> > > I got it if u keep having problems let me know I will email it to u > > Al have u got it working yet? yaron p.s- i sended him the file. ------------------------------ From: steve ravet Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 15:34:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Well sure, Bruce, but you probably didn't use them right. I got a box of Splitfires, ground them up, mixed it up in a case of Slick 50, and poured the whole thing in the gas tank along with a couple cow mangets. I get 8 second ETs now, and 58 mpg at the same time. It sealed up my valve stems, removed carbon deposits, and now I go 25,000 miles between oil changes. The torn seams in the seats have started to fix themselves, and the rust is turning back into steel. And, I think the cracks in the windshield are starting to retreat. But I'm not sure about that. I call it "slick lickety-split fire 50". - --steve Bruce Plecan wrote: > > -----Original Message----- > From: Xwiredtva > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:41 PM > Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) > > Another trick item... > The only cars/trucks/vans/motorcycles/weed wackers/tractors/generators/leaf > blowers/ > snowmobiles/or any othe ICE that benefits from them is one were the ignition > system > is less than optimim, IHMO. Jus gimme and ol AC, or autolite thank you very > much. > Bruce > > >Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce > race > >engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive applications > >your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because it > >uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one and > >plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how it > >sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they don't > >work on your vehicle. > > Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to put > out > >more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. > > Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no difference. > > > >> > >>Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? > They > >>have 4 ground electrodes. > >> > >>My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on > >>Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They > >>contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare > >>findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. > >> > >>Any Comments? > >> > >>KV. > >> > >>________________________________________________ > >> Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development > >> 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 17:30:30 -0500 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) The laws of physics cannot be changed... A spark can only jump to 1 electrode at a time. Once the gap breaks down, all the current flows across that gap, leaving the other 3 electrodes inactive. They are a waste of money. - -----Original Message----- From: Xwiredtva To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:35 PM Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) >Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce race >engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive applications >your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because it >uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one and >plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how it >sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they don't >work on your vehicle. > Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to put out >more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. > Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no difference. > >> >>Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? They >>have 4 ground electrodes. >> >>My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a test on >>Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They >>contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare >>findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. >> >>Any Comments? >> >>KV. >> >>________________________________________________ >> Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development >> 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com >> >> >> > > > > ------------------------------ From: "David A. Cooley" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 17:35:12 -0500 Subject: Re: GM ECM programming Hi James, The ECM from an 85 GM should use a variant of the 6801 uP. Someone else may have figured out the tables, but it's a start. - -----Original Message----- From: James P Hunt To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 2:38 PM Subject: GM ECM programming >I am planning to add a turbo charger to my '85 2.8L 60* V-6 Auto, and I >need to know where I can find info on the language(?) the GM EMC uses, as >I don't feel like paying three grand for a turbo kit when I can do the >work myself, I have looked on the internet for this info, but the search >engine keeps giving me the wrong stuff. > >TIA >James H. >Valrico, FL >war_machine1@xxx.com >'82 Honda CB650 >'85 Fiero 2m6 SC > >___________________________________________________________________ >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 17:56:11 -0500 Subject: RE: STREET DYNO FREE Thanks to all who responded to my request. Really appreciate everyone's help. Also, I got the schematic on the voltage divider (just printed it out). Thanks again. rick > -----Original Message----- > From: yaron sadot [SMTP:sodot@xxx.il] > Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 4:11 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE > > > > ARoss10661@xxx.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/19/99 12:58:36 PM Central Standard Time, > JemisonR@xxx.com > > writes: > > > > << Has anyone been able to download this? I've tried multiple times > but it > > just times out. Could someone attach the file to me? > > Thanks. >> > > > > I got it if u keep having problems let me know I will email it to u > > > > Al > > have u got it working yet? > > yaron > > p.s- i sended him the file. > > > > > ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 17:57:01 -0500 Subject: RE: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Boy, sounds like a "must-have" to me! :-) rick > -----Original Message----- > From: steve ravet [SMTP:Steve.Ravet@xxx.com] > Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 4:35 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) > > Well sure, Bruce, but you probably didn't use them right. I got a box > of Splitfires, ground them up, mixed it up in a case of Slick 50, and > poured the whole thing in the gas tank along with a couple cow mangets. > I get 8 second ETs now, and 58 mpg at the same time. It sealed up my > valve stems, removed carbon deposits, and now I go 25,000 miles between > oil changes. The torn seams in the seats have started to fix > themselves, and the rust is turning back into steel. And, I think the > cracks in the windshield are starting to retreat. But I'm not sure > about that. I call it "slick lickety-split fire 50". > > --steve > > Bruce Plecan wrote: > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Xwiredtva > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > > Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:41 PM > > Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) > > > > Another trick item... > > The only cars/trucks/vans/motorcycles/weed > wackers/tractors/generators/leaf > > blowers/ > > snowmobiles/or any othe ICE that benefits from them is one were the > ignition > > system > > is less than optimim, IHMO. Jus gimme and ol AC, or autolite thank you > very > > much. > > Bruce > > > > >Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce > > race > > >engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive > applications > > >your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because > it > > >uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one > and > > >plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how > it > > >sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they > don't > > >work on your vehicle. > > > Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to > put > > out > > >more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. > > > Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no > difference. > > > > > >> > > >>Anyone have an opinion on these new 4 electrode spark plugs by Bosch? > > They > > >>have 4 ground electrodes. > > >> > > >>My brother, a few years ago in college (IA State ME program) did a > test on > > >>Split Fire plugs. Found absolutely NO advantage to these plugs. They > > >>contacted Split Fire to get copies of their test results and compare > > >>findings but got no where. ...So I have become suspicious. > > >> > > >>Any Comments? > > >> > > >>KV. > > >> > > >>________________________________________________ > > >> Kevin Vannorsdel IBM Arm Electronics Development > > >> 408-256-6492 Tie 276-6492 kv@xxx.com > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > > > > > > > > > -- > Steve Ravet > steve.ravet@xxx.com > Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. > www.arm.com ------------------------------ From: Paul Tholey Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:06:08 -0500 Subject: Taking Orders...7730 Okay Guys and Girls, Here is the deal. It sounds like we all could use a 7730 and harness. I only have one. BUT I can run to the yard and get more. 7730 are $35 and harnesses are $100. Of coarse a "No' is a perfectly acceptable answer too. So if anyone is still interested they can let me know off the list anytime. Cheers, Paul Tholey pft101@xxx.edu ------------------------------ From: Paul Tholey Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:07:40 -0500 Subject: 7730 Orders ONE MORE THING...THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE SHIPPING Okay Guys and Girls, Here is the deal. It sounds like we all could use a 7730 and harness. I only have one. BUT I can run to the yard and get more. 7730 are $35 and harnesses are $100. Of coarse a "No' is a perfectly acceptable answer too. So if anyone is still interested they can let me know off the list anytime. Cheers, Paul Tholey pft101@xxx.edu ------------------------------ From: Orin Eman Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 15:34:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) > The laws of physics cannot be changed... A spark can only jump to 1 > electrode at a time. Once the gap breaks down, all the current flows across > that gap, leaving the other 3 electrodes inactive. They are a waste of > money. True. But, the advantage of the multi-electrode plugs is in how long they last. As one gap increases, another will break down first etc. With the older tri-electrode plugs, the center electrode eventually got more triangular than circular! As for the Bosch platinums, the original single electrode platinums are junk - turbo motors eat the center electrode very quickly. Unless the center electrode is a lot bigger on the new quad plugs, I'd stay well away. Orin. ------------------------------ From: d houlton x0710 Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 16:48:57 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: 3 wire O2 sensor Jeffrey T. Birt wrote: > > I need to replace the O2 sensor on my Geo Tracker (Suzuki Sidekick). > It's about $70 for either OEM or a Bosh unit. Evedeintly that 3 pin GM > weather pak connector used on it is gold plated or someting. Does any > one know of another vehical that uses the 3 wire type and is less > expensive. I don't want to pay another $40 for the connector. > Just get a generic 3-wire with no connector. Just bare wires. Cut the connector off your old sensor (or go to Pep Boys and get a new one) and splice it on the new sensor. Use solder and heat shrink tubing and you shouldn't have a problem. - --Dan ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 19:08:59 -0500 Subject: Re: 3 wire O2 sensor - -----Original Message----- From: d houlton x0710 To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 6:58 PM Subject: Re: 3 wire O2 sensor BZZZZZZZZZZZZTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT, don't sholder, heatshrink an O2 sensor. On some that is where the sensor gets it refence O2 for comparison, thru the wires "housing". Weaterpack, and crimp. Late GM Agency Manuals Specificly mention no solder. Bruce >Jeffrey T. Birt wrote: >> >> I need to replace the O2 sensor on my Geo Tracker (Suzuki Sidekick). >> It's about $70 for either OEM or a Bosh unit. Evedeintly that 3 pin GM >> weather pak connector used on it is gold plated or someting. Does any >> one know of another vehical that uses the 3 wire type and is less >> expensive. I don't want to pay another $40 for the connector. >> > >Just get a generic 3-wire with no connector. Just bare wires. Cut >the connector off your old sensor (or go to Pep Boys and get a new one) and >splice it on the new sensor. Use solder and heat shrink tubing and you >shouldn't have a problem. > >--Dan > ------------------------------ From: "Jeffrey T. Birt" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:37:46 -0600 Subject: Re: 3 wire O2 sensor d houlton x0710 wrote: > Just get a generic 3-wire with no connector. Just bare wires. Cut > the connector off your old sensor (or go to Pep Boys and get a new one) and > splice it on the new sensor. Use solder and heat shrink tubing and you > shouldn't have a problem. > > --Dan This is what I want to do. But where do I find such a sensor, or more correctly, what type of vehicle would have a cheaper 3 wire sensor. You know how most of the guys are at parts counters, they can't cross reference anything. If they can't find it by typing the vehicle info into their computer they are lost. BTW, the problem was not finding the weather pak connector (although I did not realize that they were so readily available), I just thought that $70 or $80 was a lot to pay for a three wire sensor just because it had that type of connector. Thanks for your replies, I'll see what I can find in town tomorrow. Jeff Birt ------------------------------ From: "Jeffrey T. Birt" Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:46:38 -0600 Subject: Re: I just read it and realized....... EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com wrote: > > > Hi Jeff, > There has to be someone in your area that sells the weatherpack you're > in need of.......If you're on the west coast get a price from the dealer > snip>>>>>>>(for the sensor) at (what should be approx) $25. and go to Pep Boys Dealer wants $80. Parts store wants $70. Hence the dilemma..... Jeff Birt ------------------------------ From: Steve Gorkowski Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:53:01 -0600 Subject: Re: ford injector sensor price (fuel pressure sensor) Hi Chris I hope this is enough information didn't get much time on the computer to get pin outs on sensor. Chris Conlon wrote: > At 07:03 PM 2/18/99 -0600, Steve Gorkowski wrote: > > >If you guys have this information sorry. 1999 stang injector sensor > >price $60 hooks to fuel rail 3 pin connector and has a vacuum line to it > >. I think this is the same thing as the fuel pressure sensor you guys > > That's the Motorola IPS unit some of us were talking about, or rather > one version of it. If you don't mind, I have a couple more questions > about it: > > What sort of fitting does it have to attach to the fuel rail? Does it > look adaptable to something generic? > I looked in a service CD it was a line drawing can't see threads in drawing but Sat will try to look at car with one in but fuel rail looks standard. > Likewise for the vaccum port - is it generic enough to just attach some > vac hose to? > Looks like a standard slide in hose end. > And finally, is it $60 list, or do you have to have connections to get > that sorta price? I think i can get 10% off this price maybe, could get more if i have a volume buy. I can talk price with the guys after we determined this it the sensor we need. > > > I know I can do the job with a separate FP sensor and MAP sensor, and I > need a MAP sensor anyway, but it would be nice to have a unit with known > good accuracy if possible. This is good, the whole PWM fuel pressure > thing is looking more doable every day. > > Chris C. ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #123 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".