DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, 21 February 1999 Volume 04 : Number 125 In this issue: Ross Meyers Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Ford Schematics Re: Ross Meyers Re: multimeter advice needed Re: Diacom software Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: Venturi Fuel System Re: STREET DYNO FREE More Junk Yard Parts RE: STREET DYNO FREE Re: Ross Meyers Re: STREET DYNO FREE Re: ford injector sensor price (fuel pressure sensor) Re: STREET DYNO FREE Sparks RE: STREET DYNO FREE See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Geoff Richards" Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 20:58:16 +1100 Subject: Ross Meyers Ross Please E-mail I have list of Holden prom applications for you Cheers Geoff ------------------------------ From: Justin Guest Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 12:06:23 +0000 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed >In a message dated 2/17/99 7:04:04 PM Eastern Standard Time, >frederic.breitwieser@xxx.com writes: > >>> SNIP >> SNIP > SNIP >> SNIP > >MGBs are unibody. > >You know, you can do a lot with those series B 4cyl engines. Vizard has a >good and extensive book on modifying the A series motor. The B series (which >is what you've got) is just a larger version of the same thing. 100hp is >easy Does the B-Series not have a cross flow type head on it? >enough to get out of a 1275cc A series, so I'd imagine you could get close to >140 from your engine. And you don't have to spend a lot of money. The >key is >a lot of work on your cylinder head (the information on how to do it is >already out there. You don't have to reinvent the wheel.) And a VERY HIGH >compression ratio. Like 12 to 1. No problem on 91 oct. Stock CR is, I Excuse my ignorance but I thought you could only run those sort of CRs with AVGAS or other such fuels. Is 10:1 about the best you can do on 91 oct? Or is them some other means of preventing detonation at high CRs. Apart from backing off the ignition (bad for power output?) >think, 7.5 for a rubber bumper car like yours, which is pitiful considering >how much this engine can take, even with street gas. >I think the saying goes "if you can't get the air in there, then squeeze the >hell out of what you got!" > >Ted > > Regards Justin ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 09:04:22 -0500 Subject: Re: Ford Schematics - -----Original Message----- From: Pedro Haynes To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 3:38 AM Subject: Ford Schematics Have you tried a public library?. They might surprise you with how much car data they have. Usually they have some reference material, that is very good Bruce >Greetings! > >I have a Ford RS 2000 16V engine I want to place in Ford escort MK1 body. >Does any one know where I can get wiring diagrams for the RS2000 computer, >These Schematics should include eithere the number of the wire on the >connector of the colour of the wires. > >Thank you > >Pedro. > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 09:05:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Ross Meyers - -----Original Message----- From: Geoff Richards To: Diy_Efi Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 6:00 AM Subject: Ross Meyers Could I have a copy?. Bruce >Ross >Please E-mail I have list of Holden prom applications for you >Cheers >Geoff > ------------------------------ From: Wen Yen Chan Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 09:09:45 -0500 Subject: Re: multimeter advice needed On Wed, 17 Feb 1999, Raymond C Drouillard wrote: > > >The heart of the Hall effect sensor is usually a chunk of silicon. A > small > >current is passed through the semiconductor. When a magnetic field is > >applied perpendicular to the direction of current flow some of the > charge > >carriers are deflected in direction quadrature to the current and the > >magnetic field. Eventually equilibrium is reached when the electric > field > >(caused by the displaced charge carriers) equals the force caused by the > >magnetic field. Given the dimension of the silicon slab and charge > carrier > >density we can calculate the electric field for a given voltage > generated. > >We can therefore calculate the relationship between the applied magnetic > >field and the voltage generated. > > Or, we can get an ammeter and a voltmeter and plot the sensor output > voltage against the current. Why calculate when you can measure? > > Ray > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] > Hello, I was just trying to explain how the sensor works from the ground up. Rather than calculate the sensitivity, or measure it, I think it would be even easier to just lookup the sensor's sensitivity in the spec. sheets :). Wen ------------------------------ From: Terry Prichard Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 07:18:16 -0800 Subject: Re: Diacom software Bruce and David, Thanks for your reply. My version is 2.85 when checking the over. I spotted on the disk "supports GM vehicles 81-95. At no time in the manual or on the web site info was the 95 cutoff mentioned --- just indicated 81 up. My 95 K pickup vin no is 1GCEK14K152176896 at least that on should have worked. My initial goal was to diagnose a fault in a 97 S-10 4.3 manual trans (I purchased it as a wreck) before engine removal. I will be installing in a 83 CJ7. For those interested in other software which might work on newer GM engines (which I might add states specifically OBDII compliant) try www.bb.com or OBDII.com I guess I should have spent more time investigating. Thanks, Terry At 08:25 PM 2/19/99 -0500, you wrote: > >-----Original Message----- >From: Terry Prichard >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> >Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 8:14 PM >Subject: Diacom software > >I've got a fairly resent one, e-mail me the serial numbers, and let me try >them in mine. >So far I haven't had any problems. >Bruce nacelp@xxx.net > > >>Hi all, >> >>I just purchased the Diacom software. In entering the vin number of 2 >>vehicles (A 97 S10 and a 95 K pickup) It indicated it not a valid number. >>When ordering the software I ordered the GM ver. 82 and up. >>Does any one have experience with this software to know if it is limited to >>certain models? >> >>Terry >> > ------------------------------ From: Tedscj@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 11:19:15 EST Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed In a message dated 2/20/99 7:14:41 AM Eastern Standard Time, jguest@xxx.net writes: > >You know, you can do a lot with those series B 4cyl engines. Vizard has a > >good and extensive book on modifying the A series motor. The B series ( > which > >is what you've got) is just a larger version of the same thing. 100hp is > >easy > > Does the B-Series not have a cross flow type head on it? > > >enough to get out of a 1275cc A series, so I'd imagine you could get close > to > >140 from your engine. And you don't have to spend a lot of money. The > >key is > >a lot of work on your cylinder head (the information on how to do it is > >already out there. You don't have to reinvent the wheel.) And a VERY HIGH > >compression ratio. Like 12 to 1. No problem on 91 oct. Stock CR is, I > > Excuse my ignorance but I thought you could only run those sort of CRs > with AVGAS or other such fuels. Is 10:1 about the best you can do on 91 > oct? Or is them some other means of preventing detonation at high CRs. > Apart from backing off the ignition (bad for power output?) > > >think, 7.5 for a rubber bumper car like yours, which is pitiful > considering > >how much this engine can take, even with street gas. > >I think the saying goes "if you can't get the air in there, then squeeze > the > >hell out of what you got!" > > > >Ted > > > > > > Regards Justin No, the B series engine does not have a crossflow head. The reason you can run such a high compression ratio is that there is a difference between the "geometric" compression ratio and the actual pressure in the cylinder . A whole bunch of factors determine the sort of "geometric" compression ratio that one can use in an engine. Like it's natural immunity to detonation, for example. In the case of the "a" and "b" series engines, it is the fact that you can't get much actual air into them, therefore the actual cylinder pressure is rather low compared to it's geometric ratio. The actual cylinder pressure is what you need to be concerned with. Different "Geometric" compression ratios can have different affects in different engines, though they tend to be similar in most engines. Ted ------------------------------ From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 12:57:28 EST Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) This is true BUT, The spark travels to the point of least resistance,,,I have used the NGK 4 prong plugs(similar in design to the Bosch) in many endurance type race engines and after much use you can see that the electrode is becoming square and not round as it alternates which ground it jumps to....as one ground becomes hotter from being fired upon it alternates, and as for a "magic" plug that makes more power,,,there is no such thing....but as mentioned, these type of multiple ground areas will last longer in a severe use environment.....hth's - -Carl Summers a message dated 2/19/99 2:37:08 PM Pacific Standard Time, n5xmt@xxx.net writes: << Subj: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) Date: 2/19/99 2:37:08 PM Pacific Standard Time From: n5xmt@xxx. Cooley) Sender: owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu Reply-to: diy_efi@xxx.edu To: diy_efi@xxx.edu The laws of physics cannot be changed... A spark can only jump to 1 electrode at a time. Once the gap breaks down, all the current flows across that gap, leaving the other 3 electrodes inactive. They are a waste of money. -----Original Message----- From: Xwiredtva To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:35 PM Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barelyl on topic I guess) >Split fires use one electrode that splits. It was better used in 2cylce race >engines. I used them when I raced Motocross. For automotive applications >your right they stink. The 4 electrode bosche should be better because it >uses 4 electrodes instead of one that splits. Best bet is to buy one and >plug it into your spark plug wire and then start the engine and see how it >sparks. It's cheaper then buying 4,6,8 of them then finding out they don't >work on your vehicle. > Direct Hitz is another spark plug type thing that is supposed to put out >more energy and has been idependently tested to perform. > Also if your ignition system is weak the plugs will make no difference. > >> >> ------------------------------ From: Justin Guest Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 18:15:12 +0000 Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed Thus the need for a low static CR in turbo/super charged engines? SO going back to your original point about Vizards book. If my friend who has an MGB GT applied some of the principles described they should work? >SNIP > > >No, the B series engine does not have a crossflow head. >The reason you can run such a high compression ratio is that there is a >difference between the "geometric" compression ratio and the actual pressure >in the cylinder . >A whole bunch of factors determine the sort of "geometric" compression ratio >that one can use in an engine. Like it's natural immunity to detonation, for >example. In the case of the "a" and "b" series engines, it is the fact that >you can't get much actual air into them, therefore the actual cylinder >pressure is rather low compared to it's geometric ratio. The actual cylinder >pressure is what you need to be concerned with. Different "Geometric" >compression ratios can have different affects in different engines, though >they tend to be similar in most engines. > >Ted > > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:30:08 -0500 Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) - -----Original Message----- From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 1:16 PM Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) That sounds like they are endorsing the erosion (the more the better), supports a lower ionization level for the spark to occur. Physic folks feel free to reword that!. But, that's just the opposite of autolite. Hmmm, maybe it's a matter of being more engine/ignition specific, then I would have thought. Do the extra electrodes mask reading the porselean?. Bruce >This is true BUT, The spark travels to the point of least resistance,,,I have >used the NGK 4 prong plugs(similar in design to the Bosch) in many endurance >type race engines and after much use you can see that the electrode is >becoming square and not round as it alternates which ground it jumps to....as >one ground becomes hotter from being fired upon it alternates, and as for a >"magic" plug that makes more power,,,there is no such thing....but as >mentioned, these type of multiple ground areas will last longer in a severe >use environment.....hth's >-Carl Summers ------------------------------ From: ARoss10661@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 13:49:12 EST Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE In a message dated 2/19/99 3:13:35 PM Central Standard Time, sodot@xxx.il writes: << have u got it working yet? yaron p.s- i sended him the file. >> I havent attempted to use it yet because I am trying to make a digital recorder for the wav file that will allow me to not have to carry a Camcorder or Laptop in the car ------------------------------ From: Tedscj@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 14:39:27 EST Subject: Re: 4 cyl engine advice needed In a message dated 2/20/99 1:38:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, jguest@xxx.net writes: > Thus the need for a low static CR in turbo/super charged engines? Yes > SO going back to your original point about Vizards book. If my friend who > has an MGB GT applied some of the principles described they should work? > Yes, I believe so. The A and B series engines are very similar if not identical (except for absolute size and displacement.) The book gets very specific as to even which specific makers/models of manifolds work best. And I would assume that a company that makes a manifold for the A series would make a corresponding model for the B series. Plus pistons, cams, etc. He even has a blue print on how to port the head and shape the combustion chambers just right. And I see no reason why this wouldn't work when applied to the B series. Just scale it up (which is what they did when producing the entire engine.) Anyway, the book is "Tuning BL's A series Engine" by David Vizard, it's over 400 pgs. If you were going to modify an A or B series engine, I would definitely get it. Also after perusing the book for the first time in a long time, I see that 10.5 to 11 CR is more apropriate for a street car. SCCA racers use about 14 to 1, though. Ted ------------------------------ From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 14:50:26 EST Subject: Re: Bosh Spark Plugs (Barely on topic I guess) In a message dated 2/20/99 11:00:18 AM Pacific Standard Time, nacelp@xxx.net writes: << being more engine/ignition specific, then I would have thought. Do the extra electrodes mask reading the porselean?. Bruce >> Hi Bruce, The NGK BR9EQ-14 is the easiest plug to "read" I have ever come across,,,,you can see if you have too much timing or not enough, The AFR at its richest point (during the sweep) and of course aluminum slams into the porcelain very nicely(lol)...I am not recommending these (multi-prong)plugs however for anything but a hemi type chamber as indexing a (single prong)plug in a wedge type chamber is still a better thing to do. I have not found any one plug to be better than another(heat ranges being equal),,,,,but I have had quite a few Autolite plugs have the porcelain break off and enter the engine,,,,This was in a severe environment with restrictions on octane,specific gravities and lead. This class of racing had a spec fuel that was electronically checked along with the tradional methods....and I had 16.4:1 compression...I changed to an AC end no more broken porcelain,,,later found the NGK plug and used that from then on in this class,,,,,As I'm sure you can understand at that compression ratio with only 96-97 motor octane(100 octane unleaded r+m/2) any fluctuations of AFR would cause an engine failure. hth's - -Carl Summers ------------------------------ From: yaron sadot Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 22:40:53 +0200 Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE how will it be connected to sparlk plug? yaron ARoss10661@xxx.com wrote: > In a message dated 2/19/99 3:13:35 PM Central Standard Time, sodot@xxx.il > writes: > > << have u got it working yet? > > yaron > > p.s- i sended him the file. > > > >> > I havent attempted to use it yet because I am trying to make a digital > recorder for the wav file that will allow me to not have to carry a Camcorder > or Laptop in the car ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:38:10 -0600 Subject: Re: Venturi Fuel System I have an Edelbrock Proflow which is somewhat easy to tune. From My understanding, the BG is even easier. Most of the other variants require prom burners and/or laptop computers to tune them. (The Holley Analog system is junk and not to be considered). If you are looking for easy, the BG is probably the one. If you can find a stock vehicle to clone, that would be a good option also, ie, '95 350 Chevy Police car engine/trans/computer/harness for $2000 in a ???? All the parts are stock and work together. If you are customizing, matching, building, or modifying parts, it's a hobby.... Just my opinion Tom S Walter Sherwin wrote: > Has anyone used, or had experience with, the BG Venturi Fuel > Injection System? I have an acquaintance who is wavering between > either this or true TBI. Any advantages/disadvantages that I can pass > along to him, or any other comments, would be greatly welcomed. Walt. ------------------------------ From: ARoss10661@xxx.com Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 18:13:01 EST Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE In a message dated 2/20/99 2:50:17 PM Central Standard Time, sodot@xxx.il writes: << how will it be connected to sparlk plug? yaron ARoss10661@xxx.com wrote: > In a message dated 2/19/99 3:13:35 PM Central Standard Time, sodot@xxx.il > writes: > > << have u got it working yet? > > yaron > > p.s- i sended him the file. > > > >> > I havent attempted to use it yet because I am trying to make a digital > recorder for the wav file that will allow me to not have to carry a Camcorder > or Laptop in the car >> The basic idea is to use the same inductive pickupbut route it to an IC recorder chip (Radio Shack has one they push real hard) Just working on the schematic now Al ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 17:37:32 -0600 Subject: More Junk Yard Parts - --------------962FEB716647F99CC30C66ED Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "two" identical 68 pin SMT chips labeled (Line 1) B58 047 4557 (L2) B1 L40300978 (L3) BB 33985. Also three 33030 power TO-220s, a 21 pin power trans J 00029 3493 (L2) BD478.7 (L3) BBN -3, a 20dip BB 33 283 (L2) L994A9394, a 8dip B58099 (L2) CEA 9405 (M). The motherboard is 3"x7" labeled with 2268 328413-2 and 3 of those small white add on resistor/cap nets. I have a small ECU from 94 Nissan Van also known as a Mercury Voyager. The ECU has Any idea what these parts are and what it's used for??? Cutte little thing.. I got it for the 35 pin connector, same as Marrelli and some French, Jap and German ECUs (and my Edelbrock) I also got one of those GM hardened ones 16197037. (P5 on one side P1 on the other side of the boards) What is a (L1) 185 (L2) 161196772 (L3) GBBE (L4) YQQQJ9607N 100 pin SMT? It has an Intel 44dip Flash 16196427, AB28F200BX, E 5012AC, U60502J5D. 8 TO220s, one double wide, and 5 tripple wide power trans. Any more ideas ???? Lotts of power here. I also got that Mitsub MAF and a couple more Ford EEC-IVs. There was a Volvo mechanical MAF but it looked too small for a 5 liter.. maybe a 4L. There was a T_Bird blower in the trash if anyone is interested. It rolled over smoothly and the rotors looked good...... What happened to that 4 cyl list???? 2.3 Pinto with a Huffer!!!! Going back for a harness and maybe a 350 Police package, eng/ trans/ ECU/ harness. $2500? plus shipping.. More later Tom S - --------------962FEB716647F99CC30C66ED Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit "two" identical  68 pin SMT chips labeled (Line 1) B58 047 4557 (L2) B1 L40300978 (L3) BB 33985. Also three 33030 power TO-220s, a 21 pin power trans  J 00029 3493 (L2) BD478.7 (L3) BBN -3, a 20dip BB 33 283 (L2) L994A9394, a 8dip B58099 (L2) CEA 9405 (M). The motherboard is 3"x7" labeled with 2268 328413-2 and 3 of those small white add on resistor/cap nets. I have a small ECU from  94 Nissan Van also known as a Mercury Voyager. The ECU has

Any idea what these parts are and what it's used for???  Cutte little thing.. I got it for the 35 pin connector, same as Marrelli and some French, Jap and German ECUs (and my Edelbrock)

I also got one of those GM hardened ones  16197037. (P5 on one side P1 on the other side of the boards)

What is a (L1) 185 (L2) 161196772 (L3) GBBE (L4) YQQQJ9607N 100 pin SMT?
It has an Intel 44dip Flash 16196427,  AB28F200BX, E 5012AC, U60502J5D.
8 TO220s, one double wide, and 5 tripple wide power trans. 
 Any more ideas ???? Lotts of power here.

I also got that Mitsub MAF and a couple more Ford EEC-IVs.

There  was a Volvo mechanical MAF but it looked too small for a 5 liter.. maybe a 4L.

There was a T_Bird blower in the trash if anyone is interested. It rolled over smoothly and the rotors looked good......   What happened to that 4 cyl list???? 2.3 Pinto with a Huffer!!!!

Going back for a harness and maybe a 350 Police package, eng/  trans/ ECU/ harness.  $2500? plus shipping..

More later  Tom S
  - --------------962FEB716647F99CC30C66ED-- ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 22:06:40 -0500 Subject: RE: STREET DYNO FREE Anyone tried the voltage divider? It would be a cheaper than the inductive pickup I'm thinking. rick > -----Original Message----- > From: ARoss10661@xxx.com] > Sent: Saturday, February 20, 1999 6:13 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE > > In a message dated 2/20/99 2:50:17 PM Central Standard Time, > sodot@xxx.il > writes: > > << how will it be connected to sparlk plug? > > yaron > > ARoss10661@xxx.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/19/99 3:13:35 PM Central Standard Time, > sodot@xxx.il > > writes: > > > > << have u got it working yet? > > > > yaron > > > > p.s- i sended him the file. > > > > > > >> > > I havent attempted to use it yet because I am trying to make a digital > > recorder for the wav file that will allow me to not have to carry a > Camcorder > > or Laptop in the car > >> > The basic idea is to use the same inductive pickupbut route it to an IC > recorder chip (Radio Shack has one they push real hard) Just working on > the > schematic now > Al ------------------------------ From: "Matt Tomlins" Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 15:51:46 +1100 Subject: Re: Ross Meyers - -----Original Message----- From: Geoff Richards To: Diy_Efi Date: Saturday, 20 February 1999 21:53 Subject: Ross Meyers I would love to see a copy too! TIA Matt >Ross >Please E-mail I have list of Holden prom applications for you >Cheers >Geoff > > ------------------------------ From: Daniel Ciobota Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 23:32:58 -0600 Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE Jemison Richard wrote: > Anyone tried the voltage divider? It would be a cheaper than the > inductive > pickup I'm thinking. > > rick > I built one from Mike's instructions, took me a whopping 30 minutes to solder everything together and install and rca female jack in my center console. Like I mentioned before, it works great, I use my camcorder to record runs and the code accepts it perfectly. I think the whole thing cost me about $8 at Radio shack, including a package of rca jacks and some 18 gauge wire. No messing with inductive pickups, and the whole thing is plug-and-record. Daniel ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 00:01:21 -0600 Subject: Re: ford injector sensor price (fuel pressure sensor) Steve Gorkowski wrote: > > >If you guys have this information sorry. 1999 stang injector sensor > > >price $60 hooks to fuel rail 3 pin connector and has a vacuum line to it > > >. I think this is the same thing as the fuel pressure sensor you guys > > > > > What sort of fitting does it have to attach to the fuel rail? Does it > > look adaptable to something generic? The fuel line (manifold?) has a T added with a short tube to a flange w/ two holes. The sensor is bolted to it. The vacuum line is that hard, small plastic with a rubber end. The connector is three pins in a crescent, probably the hardest piece to get..IMHO Tom S ------------------------------ From: Tedscj@xxx.com Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 01:13:22 EST Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE In a message dated 2/21/99 1:02:52 AM Eastern Standard Time, dciobota@xxx.net writes: > I built one from Mike's instructions, took me a whopping 30 minutes to > solder everything together and install and rca female jack in my center > console. Like I mentioned before, it works great, I use my camcorder to > record runs and the code accepts it perfectly. I think the whole thing > cost me about $8 at Radio shack, including a package of rca jacks and > some 18 gauge wire. No messing with inductive pickups, and the whole > thing is plug-and-record. > > Daniel I just built an inductive pickup using the instructions from the "HomeDyno" sight. I already had a detachable pickup from my timing light so it didn't cost me much. BUT it didn't work. The signal looks good and clean in the signal processing software, but apparently it just doesn't work with the "Street Dyno". I don't know why. I have DIS so there is no 'negative side of the coil' for me to hook into. I am going to try again tomorrow by hooking into the tachometer lead. But don't even bother with the inductive pickup unless you know something I don't (which is quite probable!) Ted ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 01:05:28 -0600 Subject: Sparks One more thing. In addition to the no return line fuel system in the '99 Mustang, It has those "coil on plug" spark coils someone was looking for to do combustion chamber measurements... Tom S ------------------------------ From: Jemison Richard Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 03:25:52 -0500 Subject: RE: STREET DYNO FREE Yea, sorry, I do remember you mentioning it. That what I get for thinking and writing as I read messages! Sounds great. I thought that would be the way to go myself. rick > -----Original Message----- > From: Daniel Ciobota [SMTP:dciobota@xxx.net] > Sent: Sunday, February 21, 1999 12:33 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: STREET DYNO FREE > > Jemison Richard wrote: > > > Anyone tried the voltage divider? It would be a cheaper than the > > inductive > > pickup I'm thinking. > > > > rick > > > > I built one from Mike's instructions, took me a whopping 30 minutes to > solder everything together and install and rca female jack in my center > console. Like I mentioned before, it works great, I use my camcorder to > record runs and the code accepts it perfectly. I think the whole thing > cost me about $8 at Radio shack, including a package of rca jacks and > some 18 gauge wire. No messing with inductive pickups, and the whole > thing is plug-and-record. > > Daniel > ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #125 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".