DIY_EFI Digest Monday, 22 March 1999 Volume 04 : Number 186 In this issue: 4 cyl 7747 Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line deja-vuey Re: Bosch pump # Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: Conversion to EFI : Fuel system Re: 8051 programming Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: FI fuel line Re: 8051 programming EEC V (was 8051 programming) Ceramic Coatings and EGT gm 2.0 liter tbi system for sale injector manifold design Re: FI fuel line Re: injector manifold design See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:21:05 -0500 Subject: 4 cyl 7747 Just to get one step closer to a possible answer for this, the parameters for code 41 would needed changed, but I don't show a 747 as being able to diagnose a code 41. Has anyone seen a 747 set a code 41?.. Or with a good document (perferably gm) verify that 41 doesn't apply to a 747. Bruce ------------------------------ From: "Ord Millar" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 09:19:33 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Is there some kind of back-in-time thing going on, or am I just suffering from deja-vu? ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 10:11:07 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line deja-vuey John mentioned some computer work at Ohio State, and I think it sneezed. Was about 2 am. Bruce >Is there some kind of back-in-time thing going on, or am I just suffering >from deja-vu? > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Walter Sherwin" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 11:08:52 -0800 Subject: Re: Bosch pump # > I called 1-800-283-1111, the operator, recorded voice, said that was not a number that I could reach from my calling area, 47 411; what ever that means. > Sorry Clarence. Works from Canada, just tried it! Guess you'll have to move here :) Give your local Bosch retailer a call. There must be an equivalent US "Parts Hotline" phone number? Walt. ------------------------------ From: charlesmorris@xxx.com (Charles) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 16:45:52 GMT Subject: Re: FI fuel line On Sun, 21 Mar 1999 05:00:01 -0500, you wrote: >Wait a minute.... Are you planning on using this for the _entire_ >fuel system??? Don't do it. Get steel tubing. If the carb lines are >in place, and they're 5/16" steel lines in good shape, use them for >the return line. I needed a bigger feed line on my modified BMW 745i. Ran Teflon-lined braided steel hose the length of the car, with steel AN fittings on either end. It's expensive but will never rot inside the braid, and is very resistant to damage - in fact the braid will file its way through most obstructions, so numerous padded clamps are a must. This hose is rated for something like 1000 psi (smaller ones are available DOT-approved for brake lines). Used the old steel 8mm feed line as a return. - -Charles ------------------------------ From: Mitch Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 06:31:54 -0800 Subject: Re: FI fuel line At 09:55 PM 3/20/99 -0500, Shannen Durphey wrote: >Hose clamps ok if the hose is on a barbed end. Don't put the hose on >a piece of plain tubing, cause it can easily work itself off. Why not flare the tubing? Mitch ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 13:09:00 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line - -----Original Message----- From: Charles To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 11:52 AM Subject: Re: FI fuel line Are you sure the Teflon is fuel compatable???. To include other additives?. ie alky bmte (?). Bruce >On Sun, 21 Mar 1999 05:00:01 -0500, you wrote: > >>Wait a minute.... Are you planning on using this for the _entire_ >>fuel system??? Don't do it. Get steel tubing. If the carb lines are >>in place, and they're 5/16" steel lines in good shape, use them for >>the return line. > > I needed a bigger feed line on my modified BMW 745i. Ran >Teflon-lined braided steel hose the length of the car, with steel AN >fittings on either end. It's expensive but will never rot inside the >braid, and is very resistant to damage - in fact the braid will file >its way through most obstructions, so numerous padded clamps are a >must. This hose is rated for something like 1000 psi (smaller ones are >available DOT-approved for brake lines). Used the old steel 8mm feed >line as a return. > >-Charles > ------------------------------ From: "Mike Pilkenton" Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 21:55:35 -0800 Subject: Re: FI fuel line I'm not changing any of the stock fuel rail setup. I'm transplanting a 3.1L v6 from a 92 Camaro into an Opel GT. The engine still has all the fuel system out to the steel tube fittings. Mike - -----Original Message----- From: James Weiler To: Mike Pilkenton Cc: 4/6 Cyl. Performance ; DIY-EFI Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 8:39 PM Subject: Re: FI fuel line >FWIW I used 3/8 steel line. It wasn't that hard to bend. I got a tube >bender from UAP/NAPA for $10. I took them to an aircraft mechanic and >had the ends flared to 37deg so they would be compatible with AN >fittings. The hose sounds inviting and if designed for EFI then it >should be fine but double check their claim that it is for EFI. The >company that makes it should be able to provide some literature or a web >site perhaps. > >One thing to keep in mind is that sooner or later you're going to have to >go from that hose to a fuel rail and how you make that transition could >make the decision for you. With AN lines, it's easy as NPT fittings are >available. > >Are you making a fuel rail or using an OEM? >cheers, >jw > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 13:24:45 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line - -----Original Message----- From: Mitch To: diy_efi@xxx.edu>; diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 1:12 PM Subject: Re: FI fuel line >>Hose clamps ok if the hose is on a barbed end. Don't put the hose on >>a piece of plain tubing, cause it can easily work itself off. >Why not flare the tubing? Flares help the hose work off!. Barbs dig in when the hose is trying to work off. Hence barbs different from flares, one other difference, watching a car burn down.. Bruce >Mitch > ------------------------------ From: "Jim Yeagley" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 14:13:20 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line >I'm not changing any of the stock fuel rail setup. I'm transplanting a 3.1L >v6 from a 92 Camaro into an Opel GT. The engine still has all the fuel >system out to the steel tube fittings. Mike, If you want to make it a simple hookup to the stock gm fuel fittings, go to your local gm dealer and get a replacement fuel line for the 92 Camaro, or any other efi gm car for that matter. You'll get a straight 10mm fuel line, with the proper o-ringed fittings on either end for mating up with the stock flexible hose at the engine, and a standard gm fuel filter at the other. I have also been sucessful at cutting this line, and double flaring it with an sae sized flare nut installed, to convert to sae sized line. That is, 10mm to 3/8". You may need to sand the 10mm line a little to get the 3/8" flare nut to rotate freely. That way, you can use a 3/8" union to attach the 10mm line to standard sized lines and/or fittings. I found this out because a lot of times during a tuneup on gm fwd cars, the fuel filter wouldn't come off without twisting the damned line off. They were placed underneath the car, and I'm in Ohio, lotsa rust! Instead of installing a whole new fuel line front to rear with the special ends, I would use a short length cut off of the end of the abovementioned fuel line from the dealer, then using a union and 2 flare nuts from the parts store would double flare the existing line on the car where it was clean and solid, and the new length of line with o-ring fitting on the other end. If I remember right, this line was under $30 from the dealer. Also, I agree with everyone about using solid steel fuel lines except for where a flex is needed, like at the engine and tank. Someone said they couldn't find any arguments against using neoprene lines for the whole run, well how about road hazards? Remember, roads are full of debris that can be thrown up from tires that could easily sever a soft line. Considering the gph of these efi pumps, your tank could be emptied in no time! Do it with steel, stay safe! Jim Yeagley 1996 Dodge Indy Ram See it and many others at: www.indyram.org 1975 Pontiac Grandville Brougham Conv. (in baskets) webmaster@xxx.org jimyeagley@xxx.net ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 14:14:30 -0600 Subject: Re: Conversion to EFI : Fuel system Kurek, Larry wrote: > Just to follow up on this... > > The new LS1 F/Y-bodies have a similiar setup to the Fords, etc with the one > line only and reguilator in the tank. I have heard as well that this was > done for reasons as Ward mentions below... There is no regulator in the tank, the pump pressure (pump pwm) is controlled by the ecu. Tom ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 14:58:20 -0600 Subject: Re: 8051 programming Al Lipper wrote: > Ord, > Thanks so much for your interest! I don't think we need too uch assembly > programming, but some. Basicially, we've changed over from an Intel > 80C51GB (that is no longer made) to a Phillips 80C552. They have similar > features, but the capture/compare timers and A/D converter have different > register structures, so the old software needs to be modified to work with > the philips chip. The other thing we need done is to revise our old flash > memory loader to work with a new 5v flash (we used to use a 12v version). > All the current code is well commented. I've attached the files that > contain it, so perhaps you can look over them and tell me what you think. > Just a thought. I'm working on EEC-IV Fords which use a similar 8061, now replaced with a 8096 (intel). If you pick a 16 bit chip, I'll jump on... Tom They are a lot easier to program .. ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 15:26:49 -0600 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Mike Pilkenton wrote: > I'm getting ready to run my fuel line for my engine transplant project and > need to change over the stock low pressure carb. lines to high pressure > lines designed for fuel injection. Was planning to get steel line and form > fittings and all but my local speed shop now has high pressure rubber hose > designed for FI systems. It apparently has a high strength braided liner > molded into the rubber that is real strong. Using this hose with the clamps > made for it sure would be easier than bending and forming steel lines. > Anybody elso use this or have advice? I can't see any disadvantages so > far?? Use steel lines double flared at your local farm supply. Hook them directly to #6 AN, the 45 deg angle can be bent easily to 37 deg. Use Airquip blue hose and "push-loc" fittings from summit, speedway, jegs etc, assemble once, take apart with a knife, no clamps necessary (300 lb rating). Start at the rails with a push loc fitting, hose, PL fitting to AN, AN union, the steel tube with one end cut off and a tube sleve and tube nut. I started at both ends and joined the steel tube with a brass compression union in the center. (No flaring required anywhere) and no leaks or problems. Tom S ------------------------------ From: James Weiler Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 14:18:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: FI fuel line How about using stock GM fuel supply lines then? What kind of connector does GM use between the fuel rail and these lines? I know Ford lines are plastic. later, jw On Sat, 20 Mar 1999, Mike Pilkenton wrote: > I'm not changing any of the stock fuel rail setup. I'm transplanting a 3.1L > v6 from a 92 Camaro into an Opel GT. The engine still has all the fuel > system out to the steel tube fittings. > > Mike > -----Original Message----- > From: James Weiler > To: Mike Pilkenton > Cc: 4/6 Cyl. Performance ; DIY-EFI > > Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 8:39 PM > Subject: Re: FI fuel line > > > >FWIW I used 3/8 steel line. It wasn't that hard to bend. I got a tube > >bender from UAP/NAPA for $10. I took them to an aircraft mechanic and > >had the ends flared to 37deg so they would be compatible with AN > >fittings. The hose sounds inviting and if designed for EFI then it > >should be fine but double check their claim that it is for EFI. The > >company that makes it should be able to provide some literature or a web > >site perhaps. > > > >One thing to keep in mind is that sooner or later you're going to have to > >go from that hose to a fuel rail and how you make that transition could > >make the decision for you. With AN lines, it's easy as NPT fittings are > >available. > > > >Are you making a fuel rail or using an OEM? > >cheers, > >jw > > > > ------------------------------ From: rr Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:32:04 -0800 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Mike, if I remember correctly, your putting a 3.1L V6 & tranny from a GM f-body into an Opel Gt? The original v6 f-body's used two nice pieces of high-pressure flex hose between the frame and the engine. Feed at 3/8" x 14" long, return at 5/16" x 17.5" long. They are female saginaw fittings at each end. Soaks up all those vib's from the engine. I got some in good condition from the local recycle yard. (I won't go into the need elsewhere for metal, a buuunnnchhhhh of folks got there already). What I'm beginning to do, is to use store bought 3/8" double flared lines. And brass flare connectors. This will allow me to, where needed, use shorter pieces that I can bend into place. Then, wherever I need to goto a Saginaw, I'll splice a flared line to a saginaw'd line with a silver bearing solder. A good 1/2" overlap will not leak or seperate. (These will be fuel filter and frame to engine connections. Oh, when bending line, warming it will help make it bend easier, such as with a propane torch (just not when the fueled-fuel system is open, I almost blew myself up once, and watch the drop lights). I will be using some rubber between the tank pickup and fuel pump inlet. Low pressure (neg actually), there... Somewhere in the archives there is a list of fuel line sections that are available from GM. It's the only place that I know of to get new Saginaw fittings. Let me know if you can't find it. I think I have a copy around here someplace. I've been getting short sections with a fitting on one end at the recycle yard. Just use a heavy pair of wire cutters to snip a three to four inch piece off. You'll need make sure that it's from a vehicle that the fuel tank is gone from, or the system has already been opened. Don't want any of them yard guys mad at ya... rambled enough, HTH BobR. Who's working on his own EFI project, with the fuel system being the last thing left... (then tuning begins!!!! ) Mike Pilkenton wrote: > > I'm getting ready to run my fuel line for my engine transplant project and > need to change over the stock low pressure carb. lines to high pressure > lines designed for fuel injection. Was planning to get steel line and form > fittings and all but my local speed shop now has high pressure rubber hose > designed for FI systems. It apparently has a high strength braided liner > molded into the rubber that is real strong. Using this hose with the clamps > made for it sure would be easier than bending and forming steel lines. > Anybody elso use this or have advice? I can't see any disadvantages so > far?? > > Mike Pilkenton ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:52:42 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Double flare ok. Single flare leaves sharp edges, good for cutting line. I've seen single flare work many times, but ya might as well do it right. Main point was to have something to prevent the hose from working back down the steel line under pressure. Shannen Mitch wrote: > > At 09:55 PM 3/20/99 -0500, Shannen Durphey wrote: > >Hose clamps ok if the hose is on a barbed end. Don't put the hose on > >a piece of plain tubing, cause it can easily work itself off. > > Why not flare the tubing? > > Mitch ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:00:09 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line I've used braided steel line also. Don't know if it was teflon lined, but it was definitely tougher than nylon reinforced rubber hose. I had a lot of trouble installing fittings in the end of the line, though. Shannen Charles wrote: > > On Sun, 21 Mar 1999 05:00:01 -0500, you wrote: > > >Wait a minute.... Are you planning on using this for the _entire_ > >fuel system??? Don't do it. Get steel tubing. If the carb lines are > >in place, and they're 5/16" steel lines in good shape, use them for > >the return line. > > I needed a bigger feed line on my modified BMW 745i. Ran > Teflon-lined braided steel hose the length of the car, with steel AN > fittings on either end. It's expensive but will never rot inside the > braid, and is very resistant to damage - in fact the braid will file > its way through most obstructions, so numerous padded clamps are a > must. This hose is rated for something like 1000 psi (smaller ones are > available DOT-approved for brake lines). Used the old steel 8mm feed > line as a return. > > -Charles ------------------------------ From: Shannen Durphey Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:12:26 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Depends on car, year, engine. Saginaw fittings are common on TBI and some PFI engines, different styles of quick connects make up the remaining selections. Some have plastic line, some have rubber line. Shannen James Weiler wrote: > > How about using stock GM fuel supply lines then? What kind of connector > does GM use between the fuel rail and these lines? I know Ford lines are > plastic. > later, > jw > > On Sat, 20 Mar 1999, Mike Pilkenton wrote: > > > I'm not changing any of the stock fuel rail setup. I'm transplanting a 3.1L > > v6 from a 92 Camaro into an Opel GT. The engine still has all the fuel > > system out to the steel tube fittings. > > > > Mike > > -----Original Message----- > > From: James Weiler > > To: Mike Pilkenton > > Cc: 4/6 Cyl. Performance ; DIY-EFI > > > > Date: Saturday, March 20, 1999 8:39 PM > > Subject: Re: FI fuel line > > > > > > >FWIW I used 3/8 steel line. It wasn't that hard to bend. I got a tube > > >bender from UAP/NAPA for $10. I took them to an aircraft mechanic and > > >had the ends flared to 37deg so they would be compatible with AN > > >fittings. The hose sounds inviting and if designed for EFI then it > > >should be fine but double check their claim that it is for EFI. The > > >company that makes it should be able to provide some literature or a web > > >site perhaps. > > > > > >One thing to keep in mind is that sooner or later you're going to have to > > >go from that hose to a fuel rail and how you make that transition could > > >make the decision for you. With AN lines, it's easy as NPT fittings are > > >available. > > > > > >Are you making a fuel rail or using an OEM? > > >cheers, > > >jw > > > > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Bruce Plecan" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:29:44 -0500 Subject: Re: FI fuel line - -----Original Message----- From: Shannen Durphey To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 6:17 PM Subject: Re: FI fuel line Once ya figure out how to wrap the AN stuff with ducttape tight enough, and get a GOOD fine tooth hacksaw blade gets easy. Touch of 30W, and your set. Doing some -10+-12 as a warm up helps. Even the source of hose varies some. Surplus stuff can really fight ya, big time. I got a good buy on some surplus, and was glad when I used it up, was terrible. I hate mentioning names, but I started buying AN from Earl's in about 1970, and always wind up going back to em. Bruce >I've used braided steel line also. Don't know if it was teflon lined, >but it was definitely tougher than nylon reinforced rubber hose. I >had a lot of trouble installing fittings in the end of the line, >though. >Shannen > > >Charles wrote: >> >> On Sun, 21 Mar 1999 05:00:01 -0500, you wrote: >> >> >Wait a minute.... Are you planning on using this for the _entire_ >> >fuel system??? Don't do it. Get steel tubing. If the carb lines are >> >in place, and they're 5/16" steel lines in good shape, use them for >> >the return line. >> >> I needed a bigger feed line on my modified BMW 745i. Ran >> Teflon-lined braided steel hose the length of the car, with steel AN >> fittings on either end. It's expensive but will never rot inside the >> braid, and is very resistant to damage - in fact the braid will file >> its way through most obstructions, so numerous padded clamps are a >> must. This hose is rated for something like 1000 psi (smaller ones are >> available DOT-approved for brake lines). Used the old steel 8mm feed >> line as a return. >> >> -Charles > ------------------------------ From: AL8001@xxx.com Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:18:41 EST Subject: Re: FI fuel line In a message dated 99-03-21 13:02:11 EST, ozyman@xxx.org writes: >At 09:55 PM 3/20/99 -0500, Shannen Durphey wrote: >>Hose clamps ok if the hose is on a barbed end. Don't put the hose on >>a piece of plain tubing, cause it can easily work itself off. > >Why not flare the tubing? > >Mitch > > > I usually do the first step of a double flare, this leaves a ince smooth ball on the end of the tubeing. Harold ------------------------------ From: Tom Sharpe Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:39:04 -0600 Subject: Re: FI fuel line Mike Pilkenton wrote: > I'm getting ready to run my fuel line for my engine transplant project and > need to change over the stock low pressure carb. lines to high pressure > lines designed for fuel injection. Was planning to get steel line I forgot to mention a quick trick. Pick up a couple of 3-4 foot sections of 00 copper ground wire, the kind used for grounding entrance meter boxes. It makes dandy model for routing fuel lines. use the same bender, mark it with a felt pen, then with a little trial and error, you can make steel lines fit the first time. You can straighten the wire by drawing it thru a vice with carpet jaws. and forget those brass fittings, go straight to 6AN (except for that ferrul union). Tom S ------------------------------ From: "Ord Millar" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:35:30 -0500 Subject: Re: 8051 programming Are you doing anything with EEC-V's? - -----Original Message----- From: Tom Sharpe To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 4:48 PM Subject: Re: 8051 programming > >Just a thought. I'm working on EEC-IV Fords which use a similar 8061, now >replaced with a 8096 (intel). If you pick a 16 bit chip, I'll jump on... Tom >They are a lot easier to program .. > > ------------------------------ From: Joe Dzura Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:51:34 -0800 Subject: EEC V (was 8051 programming) I am Ord, What are you trying to find out? I'm part way through a 96 Cobra EEC V cal. Joe D Ord Millar wrote: > > Are you doing anything with EEC-V's? > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tom Sharpe > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Sunday, March 21, 1999 4:48 PM > Subject: Re: 8051 programming > > > > >Just a thought. I'm working on EEC-IV Fords which use a similar 8061, now > >replaced with a 8096 (intel). If you pick a 16 bit chip, I'll jump on... > Tom > >They are a lot easier to program .. > > > > ------------------------------ From: "Steve" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 19:37:16 -0800 Subject: Ceramic Coatings and EGT This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BE73D2.3A022CA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Sorry for the off topic post, but this is a great cross section of high = tech minded people and I don't know of a better forum. I just got my new engine running and wanted to see if anyone else has = had a similar experience. The engine is a Nissan VG30ET that was enlarged to 3.3 liters and I = ceramic coated the combustion chambers, front face of the intake valve, = front and back of the exhaust valve and the exhaust port. What I = noticed is that my EGT at idle went from around 900 F to 1200 F. The = mixture is the same and the cam is larger than the last engine which = would open the exhaust valve earlier, so that would bump the EGT a = little. My co-worker has coated a bunch of engines, but they were all carbed and = he hadn't noticed such a dramatic change at idle. I haven't really run = it that hard yet as it is still being run in, so I am not sure about how = much higher the EGT is under load yet. If anyone else has seen such a dramatic rise, let me know off the list = so not to tie up too much bandwidth. Thanks, Steve - ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BE73D2.3A022CA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Sorry for the off topic post, but = this is a=20 great cross section of high tech minded people and I don't know of a = better=20 forum.
I just got my new engine running and = wanted to=20 see if anyone else has had a similar experience.
 
The engine is a Nissan VG30ET that = was enlarged=20 to 3.3 liters and I ceramic coated the combustion chambers, front face = of the=20 intake valve, front and back of the exhaust valve and the exhaust = port. =20 What I noticed is that my EGT at idle went from around 900 F to 1200 = F. =20 The mixture is the same and the cam is larger than the last engine which = would=20 open the exhaust valve earlier, so that would bump the EGT a=20 little.
 
My co-worker has coated a bunch of = engines, but=20 they were all carbed and he hadn't noticed such a dramatic change at = idle. =20 I haven't really run it that hard yet as it is still being run in, so I = am not=20 sure about how much higher the EGT is under load yet.
 
If anyone else has seen such a = dramatic rise,=20 let me know off the list so not to tie up too much = bandwidth.
 
Thanks,
Steve
- ------=_NextPart_000_003A_01BE73D2.3A022CA0-- ------------------------------ From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:43:22 -0800 Subject: gm 2.0 liter tbi system for sale I just ravaged, a 86 Volvo for it's closed loop jetronic LH system, which I'm going to use on my mgb, so I need to sell off the following. it is all out of a 85 Pontiac sunbird, 85-86, L4, "P" 1 used GM throttle body all sensors, (that plug into the tbi, map sensor, hoses, including cables/plugs to those sensors. 1 intact 1226867 ECU, w plugs, no wiring harness 1 complete distributor from that engine 1 new coolant temp sensor 1 new mounting gasket for tbi 1 new updated prom for ECU 1 new (& pricey) control module for distributor 1 chilton manual which has schematic etc for that engine/car with thumb prints. I think I have other little bits around someplace for it, whatever they are I'll throw them in. what is not here is an intact wiring harness nor fuel pump. I would like to get $200.00 for it all. the prom, control module & dist cost me $160 trade/? for another Bosch air mass sensor thanks, Ted Stowe ------------------------------ From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:50:13 -0800 Subject: injector manifold design a question to the group, in taking the efi system out of a Volvo, (4 cyl), I noticed that the fuel injectors were as most are, part of the intake manifold and seemed aimed at the middle of the individual intake ports, right at the edge of the intake port. I am having trouble finding a good throttle body with a single injector for my mgb, (the gm is hard to physically fit). outside of the irritating fact that my head has siamesed intake ports, could I create an intake manifold that mimics an injector per port, and have 2, (or one larger one), aimed at each mgb 'dual' intake port ? this might sound screwy but I have the injectors and OEM throttle body and I was thinking it was a shame not to use them. I can easily imagine that injector placement is a science, but the stuff is right by my foot here in the lab. thanks for all of your help. Ted Stowe ------------------------------ From: Jim Davies Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 21:03:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: FI fuel line On Sun, 21 Mar 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > Double flare ok. Single flare leaves sharp edges, good for cutting > line. I've seen single flare work many times, but ya might as well do > it right. Main point was to have something to prevent the hose from > working back down the steel line under pressure. > Shannen > If you do the first part of a double flare and stop at the right point, you will wind up with a pretty good fascimile of a factory bubble-type flare as found on low pressure gasoline and other lines on OE applications. Dont know whether I would use it on 40 psi plus systems, though... For hose, I have always had good results with weatherhead H100. Available everywhere and good for pretty high pressures. IIRC, 5/16 ID is rated at 1000 psi or thereabouts. ------------------------------ From: Mike Morrin Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 19:25:06 +1200 Subject: Re: injector manifold design At 08:50 pm 21/03/99 -0800, Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote: . outside of the irritating fact >that my head has siamesed intake ports, could I create an intake manifold >that mimics an injector per port, and have 2, (or one larger one), aimed at >each mgb 'dual' intake port ? I think you might have trouble getting mixture balance between the cylinders on each port, as they are not 180 degrees firing from each other, so how would you time the injection pulses to give each cylinder its fair share? regards, Mike ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #186 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".