DIY_EFI Digest Monday, April 12 1999 Volume 04 : Number 222 In this issue: RE: Circuit boards Another Question about the Northstar RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring Re: Briggs and Stratton Re: Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector Re: Conversion suggestions... Re: Circuit boards Re: Conversion suggestions... Re: EEC-IV Modifying Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:07:45 -0600 From: Marc Piccioni Subject: RE: Circuit boards Tom Usually mass production PCB assembly techniques, under each part is a drop of "crazy glue" like adhesive to hold the bit in place during wavesoldeing. If you have a PCB that you don't care about try acetone to dissolve the potting compound. Usually after the pins are desoldered, a careful application of force will crack the adhesive loose. /Marc - ---------- From: Tom Sharpe[SMTP:twsharpe@xxx.com] Sent: April 11, 1999 1:54 PM To: efi332@xxx.edu Subject: Circuit boards I have a couple of EEC_IV boards that I am trying to disassemble. The CPU and ROM seem to be glued down then sodered into place. There is also a heavy, clear coating (waterproofing?) over everything. Does anyone know what will disolve this without destroying the board? How about the glue? Thanks in Advance Tom Sharpe begin 600 WINMAIL.DAT M>)\^(AH#`0:0" `$```````!``$``0>0!@`(````Y 0```````#H``$-@ 0` M`@````(``@`!!) &`& !```!````# ````,``# #````"P`/#@`````"`?\/ M`0```&$`````````@2L?I+ZC$!F=;@#=`0]4`@````!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S M,BYE;F``,P`0`` M`"(```!D:7E?969I0&5F:3,S,BYE;F5]E9FE 969I,S,R+F5N9RYO M:&EO+7-T871E+F5D=2<``@$+, $````G````4TU44#I$25E?149)0$5&23,S M,BY%3D`' ``0```!,```!213H@0VER8W5I="!B;V%R9',```(!<0`!````%@`` M``&^A)&C8S^$!M'P41'2OIQ$15-4`````!X`'@P!````!0```%--5% ````` M'@`?# $````8````;7!I8V-I;VYI0&%T=&-A;F%D82YN970``P`&$%T]0F\# M``<0N@(``!X`"! !````90```%1/355354%,3%E-05-34%)/1%5#5$E/3E!# M0D%34T5-0DQ95$5#2$Y)455%4RQ53D1%4D5!0TA005)425-!1%)/4$]&(D-2 M05I91TQ512),24M%041(15-)5D543TA/3$142$4``````@$)$ $```"=`P`` MF0,``$(&``!,6D9U91M#$/\`"@$/`A4"J 7K`H,`4 +R"0(`8V@*P'-E=#(W M!@`&PP*#,@/%`@!P)S=&5M`H,SMP+D!Q,"@S02S!3%?0J BPC/"=D[ M%Y\R-34"@ <*@0VQ"V!N9S$P,R\44 L*%%$+\F,`0"!41P-P"H4*A55S=0= M;#QY( # !!$34 1P=6,$=&D"("!00T(@?QXA$^ "8!WP$] 1< ,`<4$*4',L M('5N!($@^F4`T&@>4 K !4 $`!] !"!D`V!P(&]F(%(B!0!A>AWP9PI!(B @ M;&EK91] 9&@xxx.P(&)I(8%[`Z +46,C<&\"/R)+%P;P) )>(%H-YM*X @ MH2;@'99A`8 @T?\K0PN (;$I,0VP)F,7H2" DR'0*1)F=0,@87 +4-YI*1 > MPR)!`A!R)8$#\.<=T"D`(I!C:R23(Y<7,$IO$; N'+PO30K 8T<O"H5\?2'%(WTGG1'] #G5B:JD)+)1@OH_'+Q(8]$I922Q(N)G/1M8\ !P:P0@)2%!9';_`' E@5I M/-@6"H46P0!Q$ ````,`$! ``````P`1$ ````! M```#T``0````4```!213H@`````'M[ ` end ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:22:15 PDT From: "Chris Moore" Subject: Another Question about the Northstar Hi everyone, I think you all know the problem I was having. But for those who don't, My wheels will not peel out. I have a power problem in the low end. Again I think it has to do with the Torque Management system on the 4.6 Northstar. I was looking into just making a pulse generator to produce a wheel speed signal and run it into the brake module. But I was thinking. The Northstar has two wires that run into the PCM from the EBTCM(Electronic Brake Traction Control Module) that have to do with the controling of the Torque Management. The first wire is Delivered Torque and the second wire is Desired Torque Output. These are the wires that let the PCM know how many injectors to shut down and how much timing to retard. It is read by a scanner by percentage.0% to 100%. Now, common sense tells me that one of the wires are a power wire and one is a ground or a return. Is there any way that I could run the correct voltage to the PCM that will say that there is 0% of Torque Management and that would do away with the EBTCM all together. With that being done, that would save me all the hassles of trying to fool the EBTCM. There are other variables to that we would have to try to fool like the RPM, VSS, Throttle position. If we could just figure out how much voltage to send than we could just get rid of the EBTCM and all the other variables would not matter. I hope someone can help me. Thanks everyone for the help. Chris Moore _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:17:15 +1000 From: George Gorman Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring Broken OH cams in alloy heads can result from a bad overheating experience - - the head permanently warps and can put enough force on the cam bearings to crack the cams. This advice came courtesy of a backyarder experienced with 2 ltr mazda 626/ford telstar alloy heads. George Gorman At 09:08 9/04/99 -0700, you wrote: > >Peter, > >Unfortunately, it is an interference engine. The timing belts have a habit >of breaking and taking a few (or many) valves along for the ride. Those in >the know recommend changing the timing and balance belts every 30,000 miles. >I've never heard of anyone breaking a cam though, so maybe you've got >something else going on. > >After markets cams are not real popular, but they do exist so you can >probably pick up a used cam on the parts trader. Though, once you start >pulling parts you're likely to find out that it's not worth fixing. > >Good Luck, >Mike > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: Peter Fenske [mailto:pfenske@xxx.ca] >Sent: Friday, April 09, 1999 1:48 AM >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >Subject: RE: Halp Diamond Star Motoring > > > > >Hi All > >Thanks to David, Bruce and Mike as well as others for help with >the 2.0 mitsibushi.. > >Prob was a broken exhaust cam.. Cam sensor is driven off intake cam >broken halfway to be exact.. > >Well hope is not an interference engine.. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:29:10 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Briggs and Stratton Possible that new B&S or using fuel inj. to meet emission stds. Some Honda engines? Also check your local drag strip and kart track. alex > I am looking to replace a regular carbueration system on a briggs and > stratton 5 HP engine with a single port fuel injection system. I was > wondering if anybody had any suggestions for feedback control, LED display > of RPM's, or the amplifier needed from the spark. Please respond ASAP!! > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:29:09 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector > Does anyone know anything about Mitsubishi MUT-II test connector ? Vehicle > what I am talking about is new 99 Pajero 2800 turbo diesel. > > Connector looks like standard OBD-II connector but having little notch at > pin # 1 end. I have not yet measured anything from the connector but in the > future I will do this. > Pins populated at the connector and descriptions according OBD-II standard: > 1 = ? > 4 = chassis ground > 5 = signal ground > 7 = ISO K-line ? > 8 = ? > 12 = ? > 13 = ? > 14 = CAN low ? > 16 = batt + > Pin 2, 7, 10 , 15 or OBD2 pins so very possible you have a ISO-K for diagnostics, which most Asian cars do. There is clauses in J1962-5 that state you can use these pins for other things. Ford uses 2 and 10 for PWM but also has pin 7 for some other use. I have SAE J1962 1994 connector specs in SAE HS-3000 1995 which does not show any CAN or KWP2000. I am not sure if these have been fully approved as a J1850 alternative http://www.od2ii.com has a connector diagram showing CAN pins. Pin 7 is at Bat. voltage logic 0 It will be a while before I get SAE-3000 1998 You could also check ISO 14299 and 14230 alex http://www.obd-2.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 00:31:59 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: Conversion suggestions... You're not going to like this. That combination doesn't exist. ; ) The only vehicle I show with that engine in that year is the step van chassis (P2, P3), and it's got a 1 bbl carb. I looked at 88 and found a 4.8 R,V truck. It's 1 bbl carb'ed. I think 1/2 ton vehicles were subject to CA emissions (more stringent, more likely to have better fuel system) and larger ones weren't. Also, there's no TBI 3.8 that I know of. Seriously, look into the TBI from the Jeep I6, and GM ECM for control. I think this is what Jason Weir did. He's got some stuff up on the web. Shannen David A. Cooley wrote: > > At 08:08 PM 4/11/99 -0400, you wrote: > >Sorry, all carb'ed w/ California emissions. Any time I see a prom or > >ecm listing for any GM truck that's pre 1986, I suspect carb + CA. > >But I don't mind looking up cal id's, just in case. > >Shannen > > Hmm... > How about the 1989 Chevy R20 pickup with the 4.8L L6? > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! > =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 00:08:27 -0500 (CDT) From: eclark@xxx.com Subject: Re: Circuit boards On Sun, 11 Apr 1999, Ken Kelly wrote: > Tom, > I socketed the flash chips on my 95 Camaro LT1 PCM. It had a clear > waterproofing all over the board. This seemed to also be under the chips. I I never saw any of this on my 93 Firebird LT1 ECM, but I did notice it on the board inside the VATS box when I pulled that out. - -Eric 93 Firebird Formula (parting out) 66 Chevy Impala (soon to have a 93 LT1) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:03:26 -0700 From: "Peter Fenske" Subject: Re: Conversion suggestions... Hi Dave Closest I can think is to go with the S10 2 bbl TBI setup. Use the stock 2BBl 225 intake with a adapter to mount the 2 bbl TBI. Lots of mopars had these.. While you are at it find a leaner burn dist, use the main pickup to feed a 8 pin HEI module tied to the ecm and stock S10 coil.. YOU will have to mount a frame mount fuel pump and the cal may have to be richened gL:peter ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:33:38 EDT From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying In a message dated 4/11/99 3:25:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@xxx.edu writes: << The whole basis for my project is to do it as cheaply as possible. Most of the parts I'm using are stock Ford parts, that were modified by me for this project. The turbos are even off of Ford production cars, purchased for $25 ea in perfect working order!! >> This sounds like my project. I have a 1979 Mustang, in which I will install a stock 5.0L HO motor, and use two T-03 turbos off of Turbo Coupes. I plan on running an '89 mustang 5.0 MAF EEC-IV EFI system. For quite some time now I have been looking at how to add the low imp. drivers out of a 2.3L computer, into the 5.0 computer. I have disassembled BOTH computers, and the operation looks like it could be very simple. I have a few questions, and was also referred to the EEC Mailing list. However, I haven't had the chance to ask that list questions, and then wait around for the answers. But the EEC mailing list is the place to go! John Miller 91 FHP Special Service 89/86 'stang & 85 Merkur 2.3L Turbo Hybrid 84 GT350 5.0 T-Top 79 Twin TURBO Project ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:52:40 EDT From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors In a message dated 4/11/99 4:06:30 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@xxx.edu writes: << The information I read in the archives from Dan Malek stated that the Switching Transistors, Zener Diodes, and Heat sinks need to be changed. But, I didn't see any transistors used for the injectors on the schematic, maybe I'm looking at the wrong schematic? >> OK, You need to get your hands on an EEC-IV (2.3L Turbo) And crack that puppy open. You can see the injector drivers. HOWEVER, the 2.3L EEC only has 2 injector drivers. One driver fires 2 injectors. So they are "Batch Fired". The 5.0 EEC on the other hand has one driver per injector. But the same drivers (Or Switching Transistors) are used to control other things as well, (Such as the IAC, EGR etc) and there are a total of 8 drivers (All the same) in ONE 2.3L EEC. >From what i can see, the computer sends a signal to the driver, which allows the current to flow through, a diode and capacitor are involved, and that's it. It's a very simple part of the circuit. Now where was that EEC-IV Schematic??? I want a copy of that! John Miller ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 02:54:32 EDT From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors In a message dated 4/11/99 4:22:37 PM Eastern Daylight Time, frederic@xxx.com writes: << Its nothing more than an inductor in parallel with the ECM output and ground, which then feeds a 1k resistor driving a large MOSFET which connects to 12V Battery, the low-impedance injector, which in turn connects to ground. This worked very well for non-peak/hold style injectors. The ECM I used was the GM 1418 Grand National ECM (Buick V6 Turbo) Hope that helped >> Ummmmmm, could that be put into a schematic, I am having a little difficulty picturing this.... John Miller ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 03:01:59 EDT From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com Subject: Re: EEC-IV Modifying for low impedance injectors In a message dated 4/11/99 4:51:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, psd105@xxx.edu writes: << Yup, it did. Though I really should stop looking at this EEC Schematic I found...cause it has Battery Voltage,12v, going through a 390 ohm resistor in series and a .01uF cap in parallel, then into a 5 pin IC, out of the IC to a 3.6v? 5W diode in parallel, and a 1000pF cap in parallel, then to the injector then to ground. >> Oh that helped ME!!!!! I have been trying to find a way to get the values of the Diodes and Caps, since these are CHIP Style and soldered directly to the board. I Have a nice multi-tester... but it won't give me the values of these components. And another thing, I made my own schematic (Reversed Engineered) of a 2.3L EEC driver circuit, and it MAKES NO DAMN SENSE. I understand circuits well enough, But this thing is WAY OUT THERE! It looks like the voltage can get to the injector, whether or not the Transistor (As I call a driver) is on or off! So what's up? It seems to be in parallel, which makes no sense, series would... but not parallel. I thought I had just goofed.. But it seems that this is how it is! John Miller ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #222 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".