DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, May 2 1999 Volume 04 : Number 257 In this issue: Re: Fuel injection plugs Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Re: Fuel injection plugs Re: Fuel injection plugs Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Re: Flame - Not Re: John Deere Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Re: Cam regrinds feasible? (roller regrind) floating flatheads Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?) See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:35:21 -0400 From: James Ballenger Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs Howard Wilkinson wrote: > My thinking is that if you provide a high enough gear ratio to > accomplish the objective of nearly always being able to throttle with > the transmission, it will at times be > necessary to gear down further than your belt drive transmission > allows for power, just as gravity may overcome your ability to > throttle with load at the other end. H.W. I agree, though I would say a wide enough gear ratio rather than high enough because the range would have to be beyond the scope of todays transmissions to keep the engine constant. James Ballenger ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 01:37:56 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot spotting. All, very good things.. The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no air accumulates on the bottom side of it. If ya llook close on some hot rods the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens. The colder the weather the worse quicker this happens. Bruce > > If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a hole > > in the water pump/block. Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it. > Is that the weep hole or something else? Why would you want to plug it? > > Then drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it. Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat. > > The above is just what works for me. > I had very good luck with the small (1/8") hole cooling down my overheating > escort, when I had it. > James Ballenger ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:46:50 -0400 From: James Ballenger Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs Raymond C Drouillard wrote: > CHANGING THE GEARING CHANGES THE ENGINE SPEED! THAT IS THE WHOLE POINT! Shifting gears changes the engine speed. The point is if we didnt need to shift and had a smooth transition through the whole range we could keep the engine rpm constant. When you are in first gear you rev up the engine in a static gear and then shift it to start reving in a new static gear. You could make the gearing dynamic, a cvt, and be able to keep the engine speed constant. > A CVT doesn't change the power (besides the ordinary efficiency losses). > If you attempt to reduce the torque to the drive wheels by changing the > gear ratio, you will either slow down the engine or speed up the vehicle. > > An unthrottled engine running at a specific speed (max torque, for > example) is going to put out a specific amount of power. If this is more > power than is required to maintain the desired cruise speed, the vehicle > will speed up. A cvt wouldnt change the effective torque at the crank, but would modify it at the drive wheels. What happens if you keep your rpm constant and shift from 1st to 4th? You can keep the load on the engine constant and therefore the rpm constant by changing the gear ratio. I suppose a problem occurs when there is little load on the engine, but the could be countered by an insanely low (numerically) gear keeping in mind I am discussing a perfect cvt with infinite range. > If you want to prevent this without throttling - that is, if you want to > maintain the same cruise speed without throttling, you will need to > change the gear ratio. Assuming that you don't speed up, the engine will > HAVE to slow down. You don't have to slow the engine down, you reduce the transmission ratio. James Ballenger ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 23:47:05 -0600 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: Fuel injection plugs >Greg: > More power to you if you can accomplish that...... I happen to >live in the real world, and deal with old fashioned Ford & GM engines >such as the FE series and the Small block & big block GM engines. The >comment on life expectancy is based on 20+ years of working on these >engines. > I'd love to see a gas engine with a 500K life in a farm truck, and >a bcsf below .35............. With the technology people are using >around here the service life I spoke of is realistic based on real >life experience, not labratory environments..... some go over 100K >TBO, but not many, and it is a struggle to achieve a bcsf of .50 >(impossible with a Holley carb). I've worked on a lot of engines over >the years, but apparently not seen the bearing setup you >describe...... I presume you are refering to Ford 239 engine when >speaking of "flattys", and assume you speak of a single bearing >spanning an entire rod journal (2 rods)..... I've owned vehicles with >these engines, but never had to work on them. > I'll believe the .35 and 500k figure when I see it in real life! > The 500K figure takes a good engine to begin with, and then some high tech tricks and quality parts on top of that. The engine I have started out with has a lengthy track record of running 10K hours on the heads, and 25 K hours on the bottom end, on natural gas, at about 80% load, 2400 rpm on well head irrigation pump applications. And that--with "farmer" maintenance! So--I think, with some careful attention to details, my durability goal is attainable. As for the GM motors--going for durability is a bad joke. (With the exception of the GMC (247/270/305) I- 6, V-6's and V-12's!) The FE and 385 Fords are considerably better than the usual GM's, and a 534 is better still, although a (top oiler) FE needs a lot of hand work on the oil passages in the block in order to live a long happy life. RB Mopars do a LOT better in the durability dept. than either. Too bad Mopar never built a REALLY big block motor!! As to the bsfc--check out some dyno charts for small block f & c engines running IR manifolded Weber carbs. .375 bsfc is common on these engines with this type of an induction setup and good headers--given a competent tuner. In fact--these numbers could just lead a guy to believe that there is something to this business of wanting better fuel atomization and a fuel squirt timed to coincide with high inhale velocity in the port! So--with good efi, .35 should be within reach for light loads. The real challenge will be in seeing how much lower than that can be had!! A competently tuned Holley will get down to about .45 bsfc on a decent motor, in my experience. (Somewhat lower if not into the power valve, and maybe just a little higher at WOT if you know how to set the pvcr correctly.) Regards, Greg ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:40:58 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? I'vr brazed a washer to the end of the heater hose nipple. That seems to provide a good restriction. Shannen steve ravet wrote: > > The JTR S-10 book shows 2 Everco 5/8" heater hose fittings, one with a > built-in restriction (3/8"). Part #H2894. They also list a similar GM > part, #10039163, used on some 4cyl S-10s, to restrict flow. > > I am pretty sure there is an in-line restrictor used on some Corvettes, > but I can't find in in JTR book. > > > > I know this is NC but I"ve exhausted my related Nissan/Datsun list w/ no > > > good info. > > > A few of us have sb chevy V8's and several have experienced heater core > > > problems d/2 higher/greater coolant flows/pressure (I don't know > > > specifically), they've replaced w/ brand new units and halfway thru > > winding > > > out and leaving another NSX (their ride, mine wouldn't do that;^) their > > > heater core will fail again. > > > They only discussed ways to just bypass the heater core which is simple > > but > > > I live in the often rainy pacific nw so need heat occassionally throughout > > > the year and would prefer some sort of pressure reducer mini-manifold but > > > I"m not familiar w/ what hardwar is out their or the simplest way to solve > > > this. I'm not sure if it's simply a matter of too much flow or pressure > > or > > > combo of both that fails them. Mine's still OK but I haven't ran it very > > > hard yet and want to preempt a painful heater core R&R etc. > > > Ross Corrigan / Vancouver, Canada > > -- > Steve Ravet > ARM, INC > steve.ravet@xxx.com > www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:53:37 -0400 From: James Ballenger Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? Bruce Plecan wrote: > It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to > pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot > spotting. Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to. Would the increase in pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the heads? Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the bypass? > All, very good things.. The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no air > accumulates on the bottom side of it. If ya llook close on some hot rods > the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage > rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens. The colder the > weather the worse quicker this happens. I have seen people do this on each side of the thermostat, where did you drill the hole? James Ballenger ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 02:12:06 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? > Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to. Would the increase in > pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the > heads? Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the bypass? On the passenger side of the waterpump/block there is a bypass hole about 3/8" in diameter. Just look at a gasket and you'll see it. SBC. > > > All, very good things.. The hole in the thermostat is to make sure no air > > accumulates on the bottom side of it. If ya llook close on some hot rods > > the first day after running the heater full one for weeks the temp guage > > rises rather high the first time the thermostat opens. The colder the > > weather the worse quicker this happens. > > I have seen people do this on each side of the thermostat, where did you drill > the hole? Anywhere exposed to coolant. You just want a way for trapped air to pass the thermostat. Bruce > > James Ballenger > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 02:02:19 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: Flame - Not Raymond C Drouillard wrote: > > On Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:21:36 -0400 (EDT) William T Wilson > writes: > >On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, H Villemure wrote: > > > >> I am more of an ignoramus than most on this list- just a fresh > >> mechanical engineering graduate. Could you detail what a *flathead* > >> motor design consists of? > > > >Yeah.. the heads are flat. ;) Nothing in them but the plugs. > > > >During the early part of the century up through the 50's, Ford made > >flathead V8s which were extremely good engines and used in a wide > variety > >of their cars and a number of early street rods. Not only Ford used > >flathead engines though; I've got one in a '55 Jeep, which is an inline > >6-cylinder. > > I believe that they were used with the inline 4 cylinder Jeep engines, > also. > Packard straight eight was flathead, I think the 6 cyl Jeep engine began life as a Willys Hercules 6, and I think Dodge made a flathead 6 cyl also. Then there's the 348/409 Chebby which has valves in head but no combustion cchamber cast in. Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 02:22:48 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: John Deere Charles wrote: > > On Sat, 1 May 1999 02:22:31 -0400, you wrote: > > > PUT na na na PUT na na PUT PUT PUT na na na na... > > >Sounds like a John Deere 2cyl tractor. Massive flywheel and long > >stroke crank made for similar sounds at idle. > >Shannen > > Actually, all my 2-cyl John Deere's go: > > PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na PUT PUT na na. > > Fires at 0 and 180 degrees, then coasts for 540 degrees > (hence the massive flywheel). > > -Charles > JD 50 > JD 420 > ;) That's interesting about the timing. I do remember less consistency in the exhaust sound though, with an occasional POP thrown in to give the dogs something to bark at. Your Deeres are undoubtedly in a better state of tune. Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 02:55:29 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid? James Ballenger wrote: > > Bruce Plecan wrote: > > > It reduces the amount of water bypasing the radiator, and also, helps to > > pressurize the coolant in the head at higher rpm, reducing localized hot > > spotting. > > Ok, I just didnt know which hole you were referring to. Would the increase in > pressure at that point lead to a lower volume of water passed through the > heads? Or would that be counter-acted by the decrease in volume at the bypass? The bypass allows coolant to return to the inlet side of the pump from the engine block. Reducing the diameter of the hole is akin to plugging a leak in a pressure line. There's more volume and pressure available at the end of the line with the leak plugged. Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 00:29:55 -0700 From: goflo@xxx.net Subject: Re: Cam regrinds feasible? (roller regrind) An additional consideration with re-grinding cams is the torsional relaxation caused by removing significant amounts of metal. This changes the phase relationships between lobes. I have in my possession a performance regrind TR6 cam which has a 14 degree phase error between front and rear lobe pair centers. The grind was done by a national rep grinder (and purportedly checked with their cam doctor). This is probably a worst-case deal, as this cam is long and slender, and has ~.125" additional lift ground-in, but much smaller phase errors screw things up noticeably. This too can be avoided by proper regrinding techniques, but once again, by the time you do it right, you coulda bought a new one... I check new ones too :) Regards, Jack ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 00:35:01 -0700 From: goflo@xxx.net Subject: floating flatheads Pardon me for interrupting the spirited repartee, but what the heck is a floating bearing, Greg? I know about inserts and rollers, have poured and bored babbit bushes... Piston pins "float" in rod bushes - Unless they don't. Perhaps you are referring to dip/splash oiling schemes, as opposed to pressure lubrication? Anyway, would appreciate an elaboration. Thanks, Jack ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 01:23:47 -0700 From: Aaron Willis Subject: Re: Flame - Not (Tornado engine?) At 10:37 PM 5/1/99 -0600, you wrote: > >There was also the not-so modern SOHC hemi Tornado. Quite the motor in its >IKA (Argentinian) twelve port headed, triple DCEO Webered trim! (310 HP >from 230 cid at only 5200 rpm! > >Regards, Greg > > > Hey, cool, I've seen one but know nothing about them. What did they come in? The one I saw was a Jeep military truck, and did NOT have three DCOE Webers!! What would be packing the hot version? Aaron Willis ICQ #27386985 AOL IM: hemiyota http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #257 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".