DIY_EFI Digest Sunday, May 16 1999 Volume 04 : Number 287 In this issue: 18 & 3x Signals Re: Yet another O2 sensor fakeout trick Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Re: Variable Restrictiveness Exhaust - A concept 555 program Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Thermal Coatings Re: Yet another O2 sensor fakeout trick Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings KS Attenuation, or Dampening Re: 18 & 3x Signals Proformance Software Query Re: 18 & 3x Signals on Holden 3.8 Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings O2 sensor and water Re: KS Attenuation, or Dampening RE: New EFI plans (ECU7) are online! Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings LT1 Spark info wanted Re: LT1 Spark info wanted Re: Honda Vtec ECU Re: 555 program Re: switching eprom Re: O2 voltz Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:24:27 +1000 From: "Geffro" Subject: 18 & 3x Signals i want to check the output of the 18 and 3x crank signals of a 3.8 litre V6 Holden with a multimeter but am unsure as to how I realise these are both voltage readings but will this actually show me the readings turning on and off or does it happen too fast Cheers Geoff ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 07:46:38 -0400 From: James Seabolt Subject: Re: Yet another O2 sensor fakeout trick "Mark Romans" wrote: >>Hi James: With a GM ecm (Unless it is some strange app) the ecm ignores the 02 sensor when at more than 70% throttle anyway. It goes into PE (Power Enrichment) and goes to a richer commanded afr. So making the 02 "Read" lean won't change the pw.<<< The throttle position switch on my L-jetronic system has only two contacts. They are either opened or closed. One detects idle and the other wide open throttle. So the FI system never goes into power mode unless it is actually under wide open throttle. I checked the TPS switch the other day (had my mom actually hold the accelerator to the floor) and the switch closed so I know that's working. Since I can reach 5 pounds of boost without evening been under wide open throttle while going up a hill, the FI system never goes into power mode so the O2 sensor tells the computer to cut back on the pulse rate when it sees all this extra fuel from the 5th injector and extra fuel pressure. I beleive that by simply breaking the circuit between the O2 sensor and computer as soon as I enter the boost zone, this helps get fuel into the motor quicker which cools the combustion chamber down and prevents detonation. I have been thinking about something. Since the O2 sensor will never give an output of more than .9 volts my trick may not work. If I drop the voltage between the O2 sensor and computer from .9 volts to say .3 volts, this might cause the computer to pulse the injectors to the point where it floods the engine. I imagine that if the computer is trying to shoot for a specific mixture (such as 13:1 or .9 volts under wide open throttle) because the output of the O2 sensor maxxes out at .9 volts, simply dropping the voltage to .3 volts is as far as it will go. So the computer might increase the pulse rate trying to shoot for a richer mixture but because it will never see .9 volts, it overshoots. There is one way to find out, which is to just try it. I will try using a diode like one guy mentioned and see what happens. - ---------------------------------------------------------- James Seabolt -----> mailto:jseabolt@xxx.net Webpage: http://users.intermediatn.net/jseabolt/ ICQ # : 7344463 United States 1980 FIAT 2000 TURBO Spider injected (John Deere aspirated) 1981 FIAT 2000 Spider (Rest in Pieces) 1981 FIAT X 1/9 (Injected) 1994 JEEP Wrangler (2.5l ) 1976 Chevrolet Pickup (454 Big block/7.3 liter) - ---------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 08:33:22 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings So you have no faith in piston ring manufacturer's dyno claims? Shannen Programmer wrote: > > Greg, > > The only problem with testing like that is the motor had to be torn down to > perform the experiment. I'd put little faith in a 15 degree change when a > complete teardown would have had to be done to perform the work. > > Lyndon IP TECH > -----Original Message----- > From: Greg Hermann > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 8:11 AM > Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings > > >>Has anyone run any "independent" testing on these barrier coatings for > what > >>they actually have seen as an improvement pre+post coating?. > >> Has any one run any endurance tests?. > >>Do I need mention that this might need a complete recal to get right. > >>Bruce > > > >A fellow I spoke with at HPC told me that they ran a dyno test of a fairly > >typical hipo 350 CID Chebby first with no coatings, then with coating only > >on the piston crowns. Said that--with no other changes, the steady state > >oil temperature at sustained full load dropped 15 degrees F. > > > >Greg > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:24:53 GMT From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Subject: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Dave Vizard reports that simply coating the combustion face of the intake valve lowers the intake air charge temperature by 60 degree F or more and is worth typically two octane numbers increase in the effective octane of the fuel. Remember that the intake valve face is exposed to combustion temperatures for at least 50% of the cycle and reaches the same temperatures as the exhaust face. Further the back side temperature reaches 600+F in a normal engine. The majority of the intake valve cooling comes from HEATING the intake air charge. Insulating the valve from most of the combustion temperature significantly reduces the intake valve temperature and reduces the amount of heat the valve can reject to the incoming charge. The intake valve coating is so important that Vizard recommends that if you only coat one thing, it should be the intake valve. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:06:29 GMT From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Subject: Re: Variable Restrictiveness Exhaust - A concept A simplified approach - to get the idea into play. Let us look at exhaust gas flow. Consider the normal mass of exhaust gas as thin molten lava. When the valve opens, it behaves as a high temperature viscous liquid and flows out of the cylinder, down the headers and out the tail pipe. This is essentially a liquid flow subject to all liquid flow rules. As long as the cylinder pressure is significantly greater than atmospheric, this flow is essentially unaffected by low order acoustic variations. As the piston approaches TDC on the exhaust stroke, hopefully most of the gas is evacuated and the pressure is falling. It is in this region thru intake valve opening "overlap" and the closing of the exhaust valve that resonant tuning can help. The "help" can be significant. If the intake "see" the chamber as a negative pressure, the initial air flow into the cylinder will be greatly accelerated. Ideally, the pressure wave will cause enough depression to totally clean out the chamber "scavenged" but not excessive draw intake charge into the exhaust. This effect is strictly dependent upon the exhaust pressure vs intake pressure. If the exhaust pressure is positive to the intake, exhaust will flow up the intake - no exception to the rule - path of least resistance, pressure differential and all that rot you know. The pressure wave arrival is a function of the acoustic characteristics of the exhaust. Its frequency a function of the tuned lengths and volumes, its amplitude a function of the shapes "Q" for the RF types. It is possible to achieve significant negative or positive values even with an above atmospheric average pressure. Remember this pressure wave is only significant when the exhaust gas is below critical pressure and until the valve closes. Currently we cut into metal something that experience or calculation show us will function in a specific rpm region. We then reduce the Q of the system to broaden the effective range - trading some reduction in peak benefits to provide some of them over a more usable range. We extend the overlap to widen the range where there will be significant negative pressure conveyed to the intake charge to cause it to accelerate. What if it were possible to "tune" the negative going peak to optimally arrive thru a relatively broad RPM region? We could then sharpen the response - raise the Q - and get even more effect. Or, during cruise, we could tune for a positive pressure in the chamber. Since we know the majority of the exhaust flow is unaffected by the acoustical tuning effects and simply follows the kinetic rules, tuning the exhaust pressure wave to be positive will have little overall flow effects - unlike placing a restriction would have. The positive wave would not only stop the scavenging effect ( depending on phase and amplitude ) but could be beneficially used for massive EGR at cruise. ( Another thread - simply put - there are strong arguments and evidence that massive EGR can nicely increase economy at light to moderate loads ). Without the accelerating effects of overlap, the throttle would have to be significantly more open to flow the air needed - thus reducing the throttling losses. In summary, being able to detect and tune the phase of the exhaust acoustical pressure wave can result in significant performance and economy enhancement. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 11:19:50 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: 555 program If y'all get as confused as me figuring out 555 stuff this will make life easier Grumpy http://www.schematica.com/Free/Free.htm or ftp://ftp.islandnet.com/schematica/files/ss55511.exe ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 09:39:28 -0600 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings I have no faith in some kind of coating--just like I have no faith in Teflon additives...instead of coating the undersides of pistons, or coating the interior of an engine--polishing the interiors smooth would have a greater effect of oil return, and less oil "dwell". As far as piston ring manufacturers go--gapless piston rings and improper end gaps will always yield differing results. You can make anything look good on a dyno--depending on operator. Lyndon IPTECH - -----Original Message----- From: Shannen Durphey To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 8:08 AM Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >So you have no faith in piston ring manufacturer's dyno claims? >Shannen > >Programmer wrote: >> >> Greg, >> >> The only problem with testing like that is the motor had to be torn down to >> perform the experiment. I'd put little faith in a 15 degree change when a >> complete teardown would have had to be done to perform the work. >> >> Lyndon IP TECH >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Greg Hermann >> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> >> Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 8:11 AM >> Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >> >> >>Has anyone run any "independent" testing on these barrier coatings for >> what >> >>they actually have seen as an improvement pre+post coating?. >> >> Has any one run any endurance tests?. >> >>Do I need mention that this might need a complete recal to get right. >> >>Bruce >> > >> >A fellow I spoke with at HPC told me that they ran a dyno test of a fairly >> >typical hipo 350 CID Chebby first with no coatings, then with coating only >> >on the piston crowns. Said that--with no other changes, the steady state >> >oil temperature at sustained full load dropped 15 degrees F. >> > >> >Greg >> > >> > >> > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 09:42:52 -0600 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings What about seat contact width ? Seat/valve contact location ? What kind of coating sticks to anything in the combustion area ? Lyndon IPTECH - -----Original Message----- From: Robert Harris To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 9:47 AM Subject: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >Dave Vizard reports that simply coating the combustion face of the intake >valve lowers the intake air charge temperature by 60 degree F or more and is >worth typically two octane numbers increase in the effective octane of the >fuel. > >Remember that the intake valve face is exposed to combustion temperatures for >at least 50% of the cycle and reaches the same temperatures as the exhaust >face. Further the back side temperature reaches 600+F in a normal engine. >The majority of the intake valve cooling comes from HEATING the intake air >charge. > >Insulating the valve from most of the combustion temperature significantly >reduces the intake valve temperature and reduces the amount of heat the valve >can reject to the incoming charge. > >The intake valve coating is so important that Vizard recommends that if you >only coat one thing, it should be the intake valve. > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:12:50 GMT From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Subject: Thermal Coatings Check this out for a starting place. The owner is easy to work with and is know legible about the subject. http://www.ncal.verio.com/~sc7500/lead2.htm ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 13:57:54 -0400 From: "CLsnyder" Subject: Re: Yet another O2 sensor fakeout trick - ----- Original Message ----- From: James Seabolt To: Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 7:46 AM Subject: Re: Yet another O2 sensor fakeout trick > "Mark Romans" wrote: > > >>Hi James: With a GM ecm (Unless it is some strange app) the ecm ignores the > 02 sensor when at more than 70% throttle anyway. It goes into PE (Power > Enrichment) and goes to a richer commanded afr. So making the 02 "Read" > lean won't change the pw.<<< > > The throttle position switch on my L-jetronic system has only two contacts. > They are either opened or closed. One detects idle and the other wide open > throttle. So the FI system never goes into power mode unless it is actually > under wide open throttle. > > I checked the TPS switch the other day (had my mom actually hold the > accelerator to the floor) and the switch closed so I know that's working. > > Since I can reach 5 pounds of boost without evening been under wide open > throttle while going up a hill, the FI system never goes into power mode so > the O2 sensor tells the computer to cut back on the pulse rate when it sees > all this extra fuel from the 5th injector and extra fuel pressure. > > I beleive that by simply breaking the circuit between the O2 sensor and > computer as soon as I enter the boost zone, this helps get fuel into the > motor quicker which cools the combustion chamber down and prevents detonation. > > I have been thinking about something. Since the O2 sensor will never give > an output of more than .9 volts my trick may not work. If I drop the > voltage between the O2 sensor and computer from .9 volts to say .3 volts, > this might cause the computer to pulse the injectors to the point where it > floods the engine. > > I imagine that if the computer is trying to shoot for a specific mixture > (such as 13:1 or .9 volts under wide open throttle) because the output of > the O2 sensor maxxes out at .9 volts, simply dropping the voltage to .3 > volts is as far as it will go. > > So the computer might increase the pulse rate trying to shoot for a richer > mixture but because it will never see .9 volts, it overshoots. > > There is one way to find out, which is to just try it. I will try using a > diode like one guy mentioned and see what happens. > MUCH simpler method - install a boost detection switch - preferably adjustable (make one from a vacuum retard diaphragm and a microswitch if necessary) and connect it with the WOT switch in the TPS. If the WOT switch closes at WOT, put the switch in parallel. If it opens, put it in series. This way EITHER WOT or boost will put the system in PE mode. > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > James Seabolt -----> mailto:jseabolt@xxx.net > Webpage: http://users.intermediatn.net/jseabolt/ > ICQ # : 7344463 > > United States > > 1980 FIAT 2000 TURBO Spider injected (John Deere aspirated) > 1981 FIAT 2000 Spider (Rest in Pieces) > 1981 FIAT X 1/9 (Injected) > 1994 JEEP Wrangler (2.5l ) > 1976 Chevrolet Pickup (454 Big block/7.3 liter) > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:31:22 -0400 (EDT) From: "Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020" Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings > > I have no faith in some kind of coating--just like I have no faith in Teflon > additives...instead of coating the undersides of pistons, or coating the > interior of an engine--polishing the interiors smooth would have a greater > effect of oil return, and less oil "dwell". As far as piston ring oil dwell in areas that have waterjacket contact is a good thing it take some of the heat out of the oil Clive ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 11:45:58 -0700 From: GARY Subject: KS Attenuation, or Dampening > > First of all, isn't the KS a piezo sensor? If so, I think DC resistance > doen't really matter. Yes Ord, it is but the ECU freaks out if it notices that the KS circuit is not present so I assume it is looking for a certain current flow with an applied voltage. If you want to attenuate, you could build a divider > around it - two resistors in series accross the element, leave one wire > connected to the KS, connect the other to the junction of the resistors. > > If it is really damping that you want, instead of just attenuation, then you > need to build a low pass filter. I am unclear on the deference between the two. Attenuation is reducing the signal's amplitude (desired), dampening is reducing the signal's magnitude? What's that? I don't know what I want! I want to see of the ECU will stop retarding my timing every time the piezo reacts to a non-detonation engine noise. I don't quite follow your description of how to build the divider either. Your help is appreciated! - -- GARY mailto:hobiegary@xxx.net ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:51:09 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: 18 & 3x Signals - ----- Original Message ----- From: Geffro To: Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 6:24 AM Subject: 18 & 3x Signals At cranking speeds maybe, also depends on sampling rate of the meter. It might miss the even to all together. This is getting to the stage of really needing a scope or scope/probe. Bruce > i want to check the output of the 18 and 3x crank signals of a 3.8 litre V6 > Holden with a multimeter but am unsure as to how > I realise these are both voltage readings but will this actually show me > the readings turning on and off or does it happen too fast > Cheers > Geoff > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 12:06:04 -0700 From: garfield@xxx.com (Gar Willis) Subject: Proformance Software Query Not directly EFI related, but... I'm looking for someone who owns a licensed copy of both Engine Expert and Dynomation, and even better, if that someone has also taken Lockheed's course he taught last year at CUD. I know it's maybe a long-shot, but I gotta ask. Our aircraft engine group has a couple sample runs we'd like to have done (we'll gladly pay, but don't think 'greedy'; remember, we're a non-profit :), in preparation for considering making a group buy of software licenses, and even having Lockheed out to give our group a class tailored to our particular engine mission. Please respond via e-mail if you 'qualify', as I'm really not prepared to discuss this thread-like and generic, on-list. Pardon the interruption; please resume normal diy programming. Gar ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 06:39:24 +1000 From: Peter Gargano Subject: Re: 18 & 3x Signals on Holden 3.8 According to Gregory's Service and repair manual (# 249), under Fuel and Engine Management (page 105 in my edition, this is for VN models) indicates the procedure: 1. remove the ignition control module wiring connector (this is the connector UNDER the coil pack) RH side of the module. 2. connect terminal N and P of the wiring connector together. 3. connect terminal M of the wiring connector to EARTH. 4. connect a test lamp from ignition control module wiring connector terminal H [or G] (-ve) and battery (+ve) 5. rotate crankshaft and you should see the test lamp go on and off 3 times [or 18 times] per revolution. Note that they use a test lamp, so you may need a resistor (100 ohms?) if you wish to use the multimeter. Tell me if it works, okay? PG. Geffro wrote: > > i want to check the output of the 18 and 3x crank signals of a 3.8 litre V6 > Holden with a multimeter but am unsure as to how > I realise these are both voltage readings but will this actually show me > the readings turning on and off or does it happen too fast > Cheers > Geoff - -- Peter Gargano peter@xxx.au Ph: +61 2 6251 5519 Fax: +61 2 6251 6646 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:00:13 -0600 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >Dave Vizard reports that simply coating the combustion face of the intake >valve lowers the intake air charge temperature by 60 degree F or more and is >worth typically two octane numbers increase in the effective octane of the >fuel. > >Remember that the intake valve face is exposed to combustion temperatures for >at least 50% of the cycle and reaches the same temperatures as the exhaust >face. Further the back side temperature reaches 600+F in a normal engine. >The majority of the intake valve cooling comes from HEATING the intake air >charge. > >Insulating the valve from most of the combustion temperature significantly >reduces the intake valve temperature and reduces the amount of heat the valve >can reject to the incoming charge. > >The intake valve coating is so important that Vizard recommends that if you >only coat one thing, it should be the intake valve. Thanks Bob! Now mebbe Gary will worry about it being to cool to evaporate the fuel sprayed on the back side of it! Good post! Greg ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 23:56:56 +0200 From: "Nils Björkman" Subject: O2 sensor and water Hello Im working on an EFI project. The purpose of this project is converting and modifying an Volvo B230F engine to be used in a boat. Now the turn has come to attach the O2 sensor. The following problems occure: 1. If the O2-sensor gets in contact with water (in the exhaust manifold), will it be destryoed, how does it work and so on. 2. How near the exhaust port can it be placed to be 300-800 DegC hot? The exhaust manifold is water cooled and the outside of the cast iron thing is not more than you can touch with your hand and not get burned. Please let me know if anyone knows or thinks anything Thanks Nils Björkman Sweden ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 18:41:43 -0400 From: "Ord Millar" Subject: Re: KS Attenuation, or Dampening Well, attenuation reduces amplitude at all frequencies. Dampening reduces amplitude according to frequency. To build a divider: Connect two resistors in series accross the KS. Remove the output wire from the KS, and connect it instead to the junction between the two resistors. Keep the resistance value high, like 1Meg each so that you don't load down the sensor. The output will be reduced by a facor of R1 / (R1+R2) - -----Original Message----- From: GARY To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 3:50 PM Subject: KS Attenuation, or Dampening >> >> First of all, isn't the KS a piezo sensor? If so, I think DC resistance >> doen't really matter. > >Yes Ord, it is but the ECU freaks out if it notices that the KS circuit >is not present so I assume it is looking for a certain current flow with >an applied voltage. > >If you want to attenuate, you could build a divider >> around it - two resistors in series accross the element, leave one wire >> connected to the KS, connect the other to the junction of the resistors. >> >> If it is really damping that you want, instead of just attenuation, then you >> need to build a low pass filter. > >I am unclear on the deference between the two. Attenuation is reducing >the signal's amplitude (desired), dampening is reducing the signal's >magnitude? What's that? I don't know what I want! I want to see of >the ECU will stop retarding my timing every time the piezo reacts to a >non-detonation engine noise. > >I don't quite follow your description of how to build the divider >either. Your help is appreciated! > >-- >GARY mailto:hobiegary@xxx.net > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 06:56:56 +1000 From: Wayne Macdonald Subject: RE: New EFI plans (ECU7) are online! - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BEA04C.6106B220 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If you are getting boards made up I would like to put my hand up for four of them. - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BEA04C.6106B220 Content-Type: application/ms-tnef Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 eJ8+Ih8AAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQ2ABAACAAAAAgACAAEEkAYAYAEAAAEAAAAMAAAAAwAAMAIAAAAL AA8OAAAAAAIB/w8BAAAAYQAAAAAAAACBKx+kvqMQGZ1uAN0BD1QCAAAAAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMy LmVuZy5vaGlvLXN0YXRlLmVkdQBTTVRQAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMyLmVuZy5vaGlvLXN0YXRlLmVk dQAAAAAeAAIwAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AAzABAAAAIgAAAGRpeV9lZmlAZWZpMzMyLmVuZy5v aGlvLXN0YXRlLmVkdQAAAAMAFQwBAAAAAwD+DwYAAAAeAAEwAQAAACQAAAAnZGl5X2VmaUBlZmkz MzIuZW5nLm9oaW8tc3RhdGUuZWR1JwACAQswAQAAACcAAABTTVRQOkRJWV9FRklARUZJMzMyLkVO Ry5PSElPLVNUQVRFLkVEVQAAAwAAOQAAAAALAEA6AQAAAAIB9g8BAAAABAAAAAAAAAKcSAEEgAEA JQAAAFJFOiBOZXcgRUZJIHBsYW5zIChFQ1U3KSBhcmUgb25saW5lIQDwCgEFgAMADgAAAM8HBQAR AAYAOAA4AAEAYwEBIIADAA4AAADPBwUAEQAGADgAAwABAC4BAQmAAQAhAAAAMzcyRThERkY4MjBC RDMxMUE2MDYwMDQwMDUzREE0NkUACwcBA5AGAGACAAAUAAAACwAjAAAAAAADACYAAAAAAAsAKQAA AAAAAwAuAAAAAAADADYAAAAAAEAAOQDQ8veh3p++AR4AcAABAAAAJQAAAFJFOiBOZXcgRUZJIHBs YW5zIChFQ1U3KSBhcmUgb25saW5lIQAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABvp/eofb/jS44C4IR06YGAEAF PaRuAAAeAB4MAQAAAAUAAABTTVRQAAAAAB4AHwwBAAAAFgAAAHdtY2RvbmFsQGh1dGNoLmNvbS5h dQAAAAMABhB6I2AKAwAHED8AAAAeAAgQAQAAAEAAAABJRllPVUFSRUdFVFRJTkdCT0FSRFNNQURF VVBJV09VTERMSUtFVE9QVVRNWUhBTkRVUEZPUkZPVVJPRlRIRU0AAgEJEAEAAADpAAAA5QAAAH8B AABMWkZ1I/1YhP8ACgEPAhUCpAPkBesCgwBQEwNUAgBjaArAc2V07jIGAAbDAoMyA8YHEwKDIjMP emhlbAMgRGzqZwKDNBMNfQqACM8J2eI7F58yNTUCgAqBDbHBC2BuZzEwMxQgCwoLEvIMAWMAQCBJ ZiCKeQhgIArAZSBnEgDydAuAZyAG4AsRBCAAwJENsCB1cBxwIHcIYEBsZCBsaWsdEHQQbyBwdQVA bXkg/RHAbh8AHnECEAXAAhAIcJQgbxyQdBTwbS4Ki1kfIDM2DfAbbHADYHQvBZAFQAqFFsEAJOAA AAADABAQAAAAAAMAERABAAAAQAAHMHCQTYLen74BQAAIMHCQTYLen74BHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6 IAAAAAADAA00/TcAAFWM - ------ =_NextPart_000_01BEA04C.6106B220-- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:30:33 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Well, in answer to the last question, ceramic thermal barrier coatings stick in the combustion chamber. They've been around for years, and are starting to gain popularity. Here's a company that makes DIY coatings, which some list members have used succesfully. http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/Index.html I have thermal barrier coatings and dry film lubricant in an engine I run daily, and have had mixed results. DFL is available on piston skirts through TRW, and GM is now applying it to pistons for the 3.1l engine. Shannen Programmer wrote: > > What about seat contact width ? Seat/valve contact location ? What kind of > coating sticks to anything in the combustion area ? > > Lyndon IPTECH > -----Original Message----- > From: Robert Harris > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 9:47 AM > Subject: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings > > >Dave Vizard reports that simply coating the combustion face of the intake > >valve lowers the intake air charge temperature by 60 degree F or more and > is > >worth typically two octane numbers increase in the effective octane of the > >fuel. > > > >Remember that the intake valve face is exposed to combustion temperatures > for > >at least 50% of the cycle and reaches the same temperatures as the exhaust > >face. Further the back side temperature reaches 600+F in a normal engine. > >The majority of the intake valve cooling comes from HEATING the intake air > >charge. > > > >Insulating the valve from most of the combustion temperature significantly > >reduces the intake valve temperature and reduces the amount of heat the > valve > >can reject to the incoming charge. > > > >The intake valve coating is so important that Vizard recommends that if you > >only coat one thing, it should be the intake valve. > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:57:40 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: LT1 Spark info wanted I'm looking for spark timing vs rpm, temp, map for an LT1 engine. I've got the notion that this engine uses a large amount of advance at cruise and would like to confirm it. Thanks. Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:20:51 -0500 (CDT) From: Roger Heflin Subject: Re: LT1 Spark info wanted Do you want some diacom runs from a LT1 at cruise? Roger On Sun, 16 May 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > I'm looking for spark timing vs rpm, temp, map for an LT1 engine. > I've got the notion that this engine uses a large amount of advance at > cruise and would like to confirm it. Thanks. > Shannen > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:27:40 +0800 From: "WILMAN" Subject: Re: Honda Vtec ECU - ---------- > From: Alexander Wenning > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Honda Vtec ECU > Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 4:21 PM > > WILMAN schrieb: > > Hello, > > > > Is there anybody out there who can help me to reprogram the ECU's > > found on 1992 onwards Honda Civic EG6 1.6 Vtec. Codes are either P30-G00 > > or P30-000. > > > > > > > > Wilman > > That´s really not easy. You have to switch the processor from internal rom to > external rom. Read the internal Rom from the processor and then fit a 27c256 > eprom into the blank space on the pcb. Now it´s very easy to modify the ecu > using an emulator. > > I have the information how to switch the processor from internal rom to an > external one but I don´t know which processor is inside. Having a look at the > ecu it shouldn´t be a problem to find the processor type and read the rom. My ECU has the Oki 66207 processor inside. Would you please supply the information as how to switch the processor to read from an external ROM? Also, how can I read the ROM from the 66207 processor? > > I guess Chris Smith from Racelogic is still on this list (Hi Chris!) and I think > he should know about that. > > If you´re just looking for a cost effective performance increase I´d suggest the > Superchips conversion. They show an interesting 16 hp gain on the rolling road > (using high octane fuel). > > Regards > > Alex Wenning > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 18:49:34 -0700 From: goflo@xxx.net Subject: Re: 555 program Another view is: http://www3.ncsu.edu/ECE480/480_555.htm Other neat stuff on site if you poke around... Jack Bruce Plecan wrote: > > If y'all get as confused as me figuring out 555 stuff this will make life > easier > Grumpy > > http://www.schematica.com/Free/Free.htm > > or > > ftp://ftp.islandnet.com/schematica/files/ss55511.exe ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:38:41 -0700 From: rr Subject: Re: switching eprom Ron, here's two articles that I wrote to someone a while back. It's oriented to a c3 ecm, but still relative. BobR. P.S. You mentioned wanting ten blocks, think binary, to get ten, you need to waste the other six. Can get 2x, 4x, 8x, 16x, 32x, each addtional address line doubles the amount of addressable memory... (1st article) I don't know how much detail you need, so let me just type for a while... I need 32Kbit of storage (a 2732 EPROM), I have 256Kbit EPROMS (a 27256). So I take the three highest address lines, tie them to a 3-pos dip switch, and select one of the eight 32Kbit areas within the EPROM. To do this, I cut those three address lines short enough that they won't enter a socket. These are pins 2, 26 & 27. I then place the '256 eprom into a 28 pin socket. Now you need to do a little soldering on the eprom. Place a 10K resister from each cut eprom pin to ground, pin 14 on the eprom. Three pins, three resisters. (Don't cover the window). Tie the three dip switch contacts on one side together, and run a 1K resister from these to +5v, pin 28 on the eprom. Now, the other dip switch contacts, run one of each to one each of the three high address lines. Yep the ones with the 10K's to ground. Now, if that dip switch position is in the off or open position, that address line is grounded (low), through the 10K. If that switch position is closed or on, that address line will be high, through the 1K. The only thing left to do, is to tie pin 26 of the socket, to pin 28 on the eprom. Then run a 1N914/In4148 diode from pin 28 of the eprom, to pin 1 of the eprom. This is to place +5v on the program pin, as spec'd, for use in the read mode. When the device is programmed, the programming volts will be set properly, without affecting the normal 5v on pin 28. When programming, you only program in the 32Kbit block. The other blocks can be programmed with a change of the dip switch, or they can be done later. When you program the eprom, use the '256Kbit algo, but only have it do a 32Kbit block. The dip switch is in binary, 3 positions, for 8 different combinations of those 3 address lines. You can do the same general thing with almost any eprom combination. Goto the National Semi (www.natsemi.com), or Atmel (www.atmel.com), web sites for data sheets on various eproms and the pin outs. (2nd article) Slightly different approach... First, watch the Bits vs. Bytes. EPROMs are sized in bits, takes eight bits for a byte. The eproms in this disscussion are byte addressable. So a 27256 prom is 256Kbits and equals 32KBytes, or 32768 addressable locations. The '7730 ECM takes 256KBit eproms, the '7747 ECM takes 32Kbit eproms. OK, back to the '7747 ECM, 32Kb (little 'b' is bits, big 'B' is bytes), is 4KB. To address 4KB locations, you need 12 address lines: 2^12 = 4096 (4KB). A 256Kb eprom = 32KB, it has 15 address lines. 2^15 = 32768. So, if we substitute a '256 eprom for a '32 eprom, we have an extra 3 address lines. But, they do address usable locations. So, using these address lines, we dice the eprom up into eight chunks of 4KB each. To select which chunk, we put different states (high or low), on that group of extra address lines. Three lines, eight different combinations. If I used a 27128 eprom, I would have four chunks of 4KB. So, you could use a 1Mb eprom, and have four available chunks. HTH - -- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:45:35 -0700 From: rr Subject: Re: O2 voltz This sounds correct, a lean (o2 rich), condition gives a low reading, while too much fuel (no o2), gives a high reading. Run some propane over it to block out o2, and the reading should go up. BobR. P.S. A while back there was a link to an epa article posted, interesting reading, I'll see if I can find it. >For the lack of anything else to do, I hooked the heated O2 up, and was >looking at the voltage drop across a sensor resistor, I been thinking of >using. > As the heater warmed up, the voltage drop across the resistor changed, >just meaning the heater was drawing less current. > I had hooked the scope probe across the O2, and cold there was no >output, >to be expected, but as it warmed up the output swung toward, .2v. Just >in >atmospheric conditions. Ok, so then it should go way high in pure O2 >right, >nope went a little over .3, and stopped there. > Did I need to load the sensor?. > The heater doesn't go to a high enough temperature for the O2 to fully >swing high?. > Does the engine side need to see a slight amount of pressure to >reference >to?. >Grumpy ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:07:39 -0600 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings Shannen, Guess I'll have to look into this some more--I'm young and prejudiced to gimmicks, so I'll have to do some research on this. Maybe I can find someone that's working on this to throw on our dyno...be patient with me guys !! Lyndon IPTECH - -----Original Message----- From: Shannen Durphey To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 7:17 PM Subject: Re: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >Well, in answer to the last question, ceramic thermal barrier coatings >stick in the combustion chamber. They've been around for years, and >are starting to gain popularity. Here's a company that makes DIY >coatings, which some list members have used succesfully. >http://www.deskmedia.com/~techline/Index.html > >I have thermal barrier coatings and dry film lubricant in an engine I >run daily, and have had mixed results. DFL is available on piston >skirts through TRW, and GM is now applying it to pistons for the 3.1l >engine. > >Shannen > >Programmer wrote: >> >> What about seat contact width ? Seat/valve contact location ? What kind of >> coating sticks to anything in the combustion area ? >> >> Lyndon IPTECH >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Robert Harris >> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> >> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 9:47 AM >> Subject: BMFC, Tiiming, and Coatings >> >> >Dave Vizard reports that simply coating the combustion face of the intake >> >valve lowers the intake air charge temperature by 60 degree F or more and >> is >> >worth typically two octane numbers increase in the effective octane of the >> >fuel. >> > >> >Remember that the intake valve face is exposed to combustion temperatures >> for >> >at least 50% of the cycle and reaches the same temperatures as the exhaust >> >face. Further the back side temperature reaches 600+F in a normal engine. >> >The majority of the intake valve cooling comes from HEATING the intake air >> >charge. >> > >> >Insulating the valve from most of the combustion temperature significantly >> >reduces the intake valve temperature and reduces the amount of heat the >> valve >> >can reject to the incoming charge. >> > >> >The intake valve coating is so important that Vizard recommends that if you >> >only coat one thing, it should be the intake valve. >> > > ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #287 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".