DIY_EFI Digest          Tuesday, May 25 1999          Volume 04 : Number 304



In this issue:

	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout
	v8 block thread cleaning
	Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout
	Re: Message from CSH. HQ
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	butterfly valves
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: butterfly valves
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Prowler V6
	Re: v8 block thread cleaning
	RE: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: butterfly valves
	Re: butterfly valves
	Re: v8 block thread cleaning
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Need help with board selection
	Re: v8 block thread cleaning
	Re: EGR?
	Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
	Re: v8 block thread cleaning
	Re: Prowler V6
	94 Truck dilemma
	Re: NTK UEGO response
	Nissan Pulsar ET Turbo - HF8311 Transistor used for ignition?
	Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout
	Re: 94 Truck dilemma

See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the 
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:56:47 -0700
From: "Todd....!!" <atc347@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

I put a 400 s.b.c. in a 2-door 1981 Chevette, talk about dangerous...

Used the original rear end, so it was pretty tame at launch due to it
being an open rear end, but once it hit second, I'd let off the gas and
romp it again and have FULL traction!  Whoopeeee....

It weighed 2,345 lbs. after the install, also used the TH375 auto outa
the Impala Wagon as well...

The driveshaft was about 2 to 3 ft. long!  The Chevette's rear end
housing has a REALLY ong front end on it, at LEAST a foot long! maybe
longer!

COOL?

LATER!

Todd...!



Squash wrote:
> 
> --- Jim Davies <jimd@xxx.ca> wrote:
> > Having just had a good look at a Prowler, there is
> > no room for a V8...
> 
> Then it shoulda been designed differently!
> 
> Andy
> p.s. a v-10 in the prowler would be quite dangerous.
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:18:39 EDT
From: Tedscj@xxx.com
Subject: Re: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

In a message dated 5/24/99, 11:54:37 AM, diy_efi@xxx.edu 
writes:
<<Will be checkin for info on how to tell what this engine is...
>>


Try     www.powerplayhemi.com/idengine.htm
The engine serial # is at the front of the block, just in front of the oil 
filler/breather tube.
Also, if it has LARGE fins you will know it is a '56-'58 which will be a 354 
or 392ci.  If not, then it is a -'55, which will be a 331ci.  And again a 
quad headlamp set-up in '58.
Ted

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:23:44 -0400
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

At 02:55 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote:
>OK David,
>
>Ya just made me think of a question havin to do with the 'diesel'
>principle that you just stated....
>
>Most diesels' static compression ratio's are pretty much over 20:1
>right?
>

For the most part... some turbo diesels are 18:1 or so, but normally
aspirated diesels are 22:1 to 25:1 CR

>Why don't they just squirt regular fuel in at these temps instead of
>diesel?
>

the rate of combustion would be too high and the detonation resistance too
low... Basically would blow the heads right off the engine!
(Seen it happen on a mercedes 300D... guy filled up with Regular gas and
drove off... about a block later, heard a large BOOM and he was at the side
of the road with lots of smoke...  Opened the hood and it appeared to have
sheared the head bolts... head was about 1/4" above the block!)


===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net
     Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:25:32 -0400
From: "David A. Cooley" <n5xmt@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

At 03:02 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote:

>
>What's the diff in tq n HP 'tween the 6 that's in the prowler vs. the
>360?

I think the V6 is about 200HP and 200 Lb/ft...
the 360 I've seen in the trucks is 250 or so HP and 280 or so Lb/ft (If I'm
remembering the right engine!)
===========================================================
           David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net
     Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068
   Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:54:20 -0500
From: "Neal Bailey" <NBailey@xxx.com>
Subject: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout

Hello, I am new to the list. :o)

I Have a Question...
I was wondering if anyone out there would know
where I could possible get the schematics and pinout
of the EEC-IV Computer. I would like to start my own
project . Any info would be great... Thanks.

Neal

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:01:35 -0700
From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" <StowT@xxx.com>
Subject: v8 block thread cleaning

howdy.

what do you guys use to clean up the block head bolt holes ?
it would be criminal to torque my shiny heads to all that crud down there,
which I think exits to the water jacket and or the oil pan ? especially with
the arp thread sealer/lube on them.

I see that snap on has a thread chaser tool set, rtd-42, however I can't
seem to find a local snap on guy to buy it from.

compressed air would blow that junk down into my engine beyond any doubt.

so if you were doing a valve job, what do you use ?

thanks, Ted Stowe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:08:47 -0400
From: "Bruce Plecan" <nacelp@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout

Subject: EEC-IV Schematics & Pinout

There is a list just for them (or was), if you look in the archives for Tom
Cloud, he might be able to point you there.
Grumpy


| Hello, I am new to the list. :o)
|
| I Have a Question...
| I was wondering if anyone out there would know
| where I could possible get the schematics and pinout
| of the EEC-IV Computer. I would like to start my own
| project . Any info would be great... Thanks.
|
| Neal
|
|
|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 00:16:43 +0200
From: "Espen Hilde" <mwichstr@xxx.no>
Subject: Re: Message from CSH. HQ

Dear Bruce.
Good luck, pal.
Please .....get well soon! :-)
Espen

> Bruce:
> 	I'll look forward to resumption of  your wonderful posts -- looking 
> back on a terrifying experience rather than forward to it. Best wishes.
> 										
> 	Charlie Iliff		

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:53:51 -0400
From: Frederic Breitwieser <frederic@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

> rear/mid engine?  Just a thought... Fred may have a bit of input on this
> one, since he IS in the  process of writing a book about creatin
> POWERFUL Hi Po cars from SCRATCH!!

My opinion:
For drag racing, front engines tend to be better because the weight of the engine
(down) opposes the torque of the rear wheels rotating forces (lifting the front)

For rally racing, mid-engine is better, because the weight can be moved around so
you have as close to 50/50 as you can.  The advantages of this is is multiple.
You don't have to build too much anti-dive into the front end thus affecting your
left-right handling in a more positive way. Appears to be less of a sacrifice.

Remember that suspension tuning is all about trade offs... you trade different
aspects of handing for others, even in an "optimal" design.  Of course, your
optimal might be different than mine :)

> What's the diff in tq n HP 'tween the 6 that's in the prowler vs. the
> 360?

Prowler is 200ish HP and the 360 varies from 160 to 300 depending on the year,
carb setup, compression, etc.  And it weighs more.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:53:06 -0500
From: steve ravet <Steve.Ravet@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout

Have a look at the diy_efi page (efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu.diy_efi)
click on OEM then click on Ford.  Also, search in the archives.  there's
not as much going on here with Ford as there is for GM.

- --steve

Neal Bailey wrote:
> 
> Hello, I am new to the list. :o)
> 
> I Have a Question...
> I was wondering if anyone out there would know
> where I could possible get the schematics and pinout
> of the EEC-IV Computer. I would like to start my own
> project . Any info would be great... Thanks.
> 
> Neal

- -- 
Steve Ravet
steve.ravet@xxx.com
Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
www.arm.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:58:57 -0700
From: ".." <rap@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

You need to check the numbers on the block to be sure, a lot of engines get
swapped out over time. Secondly, to make that old hemi perform you have to spend
bundles of bucks. Those old long and flimsy stock rockers have to go and the
replacements are very expensive (big time), along with triple valve springs that
you need; that is  unless you want a low rev truck engine. Then you'll need to
replace the old worn pistons with some forged slugs (you'll have to bore it anyway
to straighten out those old tapered-by-time cylinders). Add at least a roller
chain timing set (or gear drive). Then comes the cam - you gotta be careful here.
Those old hemi's can be made to give you gobs of mid and top and power with the
right cam - but you'll give away bottom end torque. So plan on driving around with
a 2800-3000 stall convertor (and not the old slush box that came with that hemi) -
good luck finding an adapter. Outside of cleaning the mice nests out of the
intakes, just clean them up a bit - don't even look at the cost of replacement
race heads unless you're REAL serious.

In short, you'll be Time, Money and Power ahead by picking up a factory long block
and building from there. Much stronger bottom end for one thing and they breathe
like crazy!!

Or- put less then half as much money in your existing wedge and you'll have almost
as much power, certainly more usable street power. There was/is no magic in those
old hemi's (in 1958/59 my brother ran a 392 in his '40 Ford coupe and developed
fair sized arm muscles from steering that old nose heavy beast).
rap

"Todd....!!" wrote:

> So, the 392 was only in TWO years of cars?
>
> It could be that year, but it looks older than a 58, will verify!
>
> Maybe I'll take a dig pic of the thing and post it on one of my sites
> and ask ya'll to look at it and tell me wxactly what year the beast is!?
>
> My Bee would look REALLY COOL with a HEMI in it!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Todd....!!
>
> CLsnyder wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Todd....!! <atc347@xxx.net>
> > To: <diy_efi@xxx.edu>
> > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:23 PM
> > Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi
> >
> > > Sounds like a painful operation to me!!
> > >
> > > ALSO, BTW - FYI - Found a HUGE IMPERIAL cruisin in the junk yard
> > > universe this weekend, and it has a HEMI IN IT!!
> > >
> > > HOWEVER it's an old 50's or early 60's at the latest car, I can't tell
> > > what year it is.. but the distributor is in the rear of the hemi, which
> > > means that is ain't a 426(426's dist is in the front like the newer
> > > mopar BB's)  So the question now is, is this engine truly a 392 or just
> > > a 331...?
> > >
> > 392 was used in '57 and '58. '56 was a 353. '51 to '55 were 331.
> >
> > Single headlights up to '56.
> > > EITHER way, it IS a hemi and it is HUGE!  NO ONE will be able to tel the
> > > diff tween it and a REAL 426 hemi except for the distributor sittin in
> > > the back!
> > >
> > > Anybody know how to tell what year the car is or whether or not the
> > > engine is a 331 or 392 hemi?
> > >
> > > They only want $300 for it, and that's still negotiable...
> > >
> > > Will be checkin for info on how to tell what this engine is...
> > >
> > > May just have ta pull a head to check the bore and pull the crank to
> > > check the stroke or somethin...  the bore should tell me nuff?  Will be
> > > gettin the specs and differences tween the 331 and 392 as well...
> > >
> > > LATER!
> > >
> > > Todd....!!
> > >
> > >
> > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Actually, the plug location in a Hemi is bad because it is off to one
> > side.
> > > > > Its the best you can do with a Hemi but its still bad.  As a result it
> > needs
> > > >
> > > > >From what I've read a not so uncommon mod for all out racing is to
> > drill
> > > > and tap another spark plug hole... but I've not found anything on the
> > > > net about it.  Someone who was slightly intoxicated mentioned this to me
> > > > in a bar a year or so ago.
> > >
> > >
> > >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:51:00 -0500
From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: butterfly valves

 Does anyone have a typical chart of flow vs. valve angle for round
butterfly valves?  I thought this would be something I could look up in
my shelf of engineering handbooks, but I've come up with nothing useful.

 I expect the flow would be highly nonlinear; I'm just trying to come up
with a rough table to start off with for a delta-TPS injection setup.
                                                                                          

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:35:24 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

Diesel fuel needs to burn easily so it ignites the instant it is injected to
produce a nice flame from the injector.  Gasoline is made to resist ignition
so it doesn't ignite until after the spark fires.  Gasoline in a diesel will
form a cloud of fuel in the chamber then detonate in a really big bang.

Its funny how fuel made to resist detonation in a spark ignition engine
detonates badly in a compression ignition engine and vice versa.

Gary Derian <gderian@xxx.com>

> Ya just made me think of a question havin to do with the 'diesel'
> principle that you just stated....
>
> Most diesels' static compression ratio's are pretty much over 20:1
> right?
>
> Why don't they just squirt regular fuel in at these temps instead of
> diesel?
>
> What would happen?
>
> It seems like it'd be possible!!
>
> What's the diff?
>
> REALLY?
>
> Thanks!
>
> LATER!
>
> Todd.....!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:51:53 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <gderian@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: butterfly valves

An engine creates a much higher vacuum behind a nearly closed throttle than
a nearly open one.  This greatly aggravates the non-linearity of the flow.
A variable linkage to slow down the throttle angle change per pedal movement
when nearly closed would help.  There are many techniques to do this.  Some
auto makers make the linkage do the opposite to make a car feel faster.  To
calculate flow against a constant vacuum, a close approximation could be
made by measuring or calculating the effective area of the opening.

Gary Derian <gderian@xxx.com>
>
>  Does anyone have a typical chart of flow vs. valve angle for round
> butterfly valves?  I thought this would be something I could look up in
> my shelf of engineering handbooks, but I've come up with nothing useful.
>
>  I expect the flow would be highly nonlinear; I'm just trying to come up
> with a rough table to start off with for a delta-TPS injection setup.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:10:47 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

Todd....!! wrote:
> 
> Hi Grumpy,
> 
> I was wonderin how ya came to get that nicname?
> 
Spend time reading some archives posts, look for CSH and programming
101, if ya wish to get the full effect.
Shannen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:35:48 EDT
From: AL8001@xxx.com
Subject: Prowler V6

The 99 Prowler has the all aluminum 3.5L V6 also used in the LHS and 300M. 
The drive line of a Prowler consists of a front engine and a rear mounted 
trans axel.  Similar to a Porsche 924/944, 928 and the 65 Tempest.

 3.5L  all aluminum DOHC V6   253 HP @xxx. It also has a 
dual tuned intake system to give a broad power curve. Compression is around 
10 to 1.

Sounds like enough for a 2,800 Lb street cruser to me.

The 98 and older Prowler has a lesser 3.5L V6 cast iron block with a aluminum 
head.

Power (SAE Net) 214 bhp (157 kW) @ 5850 rpm

Torque (SAE Net) 221 lb ft (303 Nm) @ 3100 rpm

Max Engine Speed  6464 rpm


Harold

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:39:03 EDT
From: ECMnut@xxx.com
Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning

Hi Ted,
don't you simply use a tap in the bolt holes to clean them?
MIke V
> 
>  what do you guys use to clean up the block head bolt holes ?
>  it would be criminal to torque my shiny heads to all that crud down there,
>  which I think exits to the water jacket and or the oil pan ? especially 
with
>  the arp thread sealer/lube on them.
>  
>  I see that snap on has a thread chaser tool set, rtd-42, however I can't
>  seem to find a local snap on guy to buy it from.
>  
>  compressed air would blow that junk down into my engine beyond any doubt.
>  
>  so if you were doing a valve job, what do you use ?
>  
>  thanks, Ted Stowe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 02:47:10 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?J=F6rgen_Karlsson?= <jurg@xxx.se>
Subject: RE: alternative engines, now Hemi

Todd...!! wrote:

> Ya just made me think of a question havin to do with the 'diesel'
> principle that you just stated....
>
> Most diesels' static compression ratio's are pretty much over 20:1
> right?
>
> Why don't they just squirt regular fuel in at these temps instead of
> diesel?
>
> What would happen?
>
> It seems like it'd be possible!!

Mitsubish and Volvo does it, it dosen't seem to give them any large
benefits, with a turbo and 50psi or so of boost it might be fun:).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:47:21 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Clive Apps   Techno-Logicals   416 510 0020" <clive@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: butterfly valves

> 
> 
>  Does anyone have a typical chart of flow vs. valve angle for round
> butterfly valves?  I thought this would be something I could look up in
> my shelf of engineering handbooks, but I've come up with nothing useful.


the area could be calculated using calculus

the # would be 
circle area -
2x [area section for 1/2 cylinder at angle y]

angle y would be the only variable
might be simpler to calculate the area than use a table

the flow could be related to vacuum @ area vs RPM

>  I expect the flow would be highly nonlinear; I'm just trying to come up
> with a rough table to start off with for a delta-TPS injection setup.

probably 4th order

Clive 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:11:34 -0400
From: David Piper <dapiper@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: butterfly valves

Provide FAX no and I will send Cv vs angle

TurboDave

> Does anyone have a typical chart of flow vs. valve angle for round
>butterfly valves? 
TurboDave (aka DynoDave)

David A Piper, owner
Performance Chassis Dyno
239 Beverly Road
Greenville, SC 29609
864-322-2737

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:10:19 -0700
From: ".." <rap@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning

Use a "bottoming tap" it cleans the threads almost to the very bottom of the
cavity.
rap

"Stowe, Ted-SEA" wrote:

> howdy.
>
> what do you guys use to clean up the block head bolt holes ?
> it would be criminal to torque my shiny heads to all that crud down there,
> which I think exits to the water jacket and or the oil pan ? especially with
> the arp thread sealer/lube on them.
>
> I see that snap on has a thread chaser tool set, rtd-42, however I can't
> seem to find a local snap on guy to buy it from.
>
> compressed air would blow that junk down into my engine beyond any doubt.
>
> so if you were doing a valve job, what do you use ?
>
> thanks, Ted Stowe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:18:27 -0700
From: ".." <rap@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

Almost as dangerous as the dude that used to run about Pensacola, Fl. when
I lived there with the 427 Chev where the rear seat of a Chevette once
resided; tube frame and tubbed rear end and all. By the way, how many feet
did the Chevette rear end last on a good launch???? 10, maybe 15???
rap

"Todd....!!" wrote:

> I put a 400 s.b.c. in a 2-door 1981 Chevette, talk about dangerous...
>
> Used the original rear end, so it was pretty tame at launch due to it
> being an open rear end, but once it hit second, I'd let off the gas and
> romp it again and have FULL traction!  Whoopeeee....
>
> It weighed 2,345 lbs. after the install, also used the TH375 auto outa
> the Impala Wagon as well...
>
> The driveshaft was about 2 to 3 ft. long!  The Chevette's rear end
> housing has a REALLY ong front end on it, at LEAST a foot long! maybe
> longer!
>
> COOL?
>
> LATER!
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:22:31 -0400
From: "Darren Ginter" <dsginter@xxx.edu>
Subject: Need help with board selection

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEA690.1DC984C0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello,

I'm new to the DIY_EFI stuff but I am interested in working on an EFI =
project.  The only problem is that I only want to do the software aspect =
of it and simply purchase complete, over the counter hardware.

Doesn anyone have any recommendations?  I'm not looking to spend a whole =
lot but I will go the extra mile for good technology.  I *really* like =
the MPC555 but can't really find much in the way of a setup that I can =
get going right away on.

Any help is appreciated.

Darren

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm new to the DIY_EFI stuff but I am =
interested in=20
working on an EFI project.&nbsp; The only problem is that I only want to =
do the=20
software aspect of it and simply purchase&nbsp;complete, over the =
counter=20
hardware.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Doesn anyone have any =
recommendations?&nbsp; I'm=20
not looking to spend a whole lot but I will go the extra mile for good=20
technology.&nbsp; I *really* like the MPC555 but can't really find much =
in the=20
way of a setup that I can get going right away on.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any help is appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Darren</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0013_01BEA690.1DC984C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:35:24 -0500
From: "David" <David_f_edwards@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning

Ted,

I use a tap in a battery drill after I blow it out with air.  I use a very
low speed.  Speeds things up greatly.

David

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stowe, Ted-SEA <StowT@xxx.com>
To: 'diy_efi@xxx.edu>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:10 PM
Subject: v8 block thread cleaning


|
|howdy.
|
|what do you guys use to clean up the block head bolt holes ?
|it would be criminal to torque my shiny heads to all that crud down there,
|which I think exits to the water jacket and or the oil pan ? especially
with
|the arp thread sealer/lube on them.
|
|I see that snap on has a thread chaser tool set, rtd-42, however I can't
|seem to find a local snap on guy to buy it from.
|
|compressed air would blow that junk down into my engine beyond any doubt.
|
|so if you were doing a valve job, what do you use ?
|
|thanks, Ted Stowe
|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:28:29 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: EGR?

steve ravet wrote:
> 
> Shannen Durphey wrote:
> 
> > Now, I'm in a closed shop.  We get a little bit of customer work, and
> > I try to be at the desk whenever it comes in.  It's a good idea to at
> > least show yourself to the car owner, IMHO.
> > Shannen
> 
> You should have moved to Austin.  It'd be nice to have a mechanic around
> that I knew/could trust...  :-)
> 
Hee hee.  Knowin me and trustin me don't always go hand in hand. ; )
Shannen


> --steve
> 
> --
> Steve Ravet
> steve.ravet@xxx.com
> Advanced Risc Machines, Inc.
> www.arm.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:47:13 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi

David A. Cooley wrote:
> 
> At 02:55 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >OK David,
> >
> >Ya just made me think of a question havin to do with the 'diesel'
> >principle that you just stated....
> >
> >Most diesels' static compression ratio's are pretty much over 20:1
> >right?
> >
> 
> For the most part... some turbo diesels are 18:1 or so, but normally
> aspirated diesels are 22:1 to 25:1 CR
> 
Pretty sure I've seen low compression ag diesels.  Thought the "ether
startable" big diesels were pretty low compression also.  Not so sure,
now.
Shannen

> ===========================================================
>            David Cooley N5XMT           Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net
>      Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068
>    Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
> ===========================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:57:39 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning

Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote:
> 
> howdy.
> 
> what do you guys use to clean up the block head bolt holes ?
> it would be criminal to torque my shiny heads to all that crud down there,
> which I think exits to the water jacket and or the oil pan ? especially with
> the arp thread sealer/lube on them.
> 
> I see that snap on has a thread chaser tool set, rtd-42, however I can't
> seem to find a local snap on guy to buy it from.
> 
> compressed air would blow that junk down into my engine beyond any doubt.
> 
> so if you were doing a valve job, what do you use ?
> 
> thanks, Ted Stowe
I have a 3 piece tap set from Snap-on, all the taps are bottoming
type.  I also have a fancy thread chaser set.  Before I got those
tools, I used standard taps to clean out bolt holes.  
Shannen

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:15:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: eclark@xxx.com
Subject: Re: Prowler V6

On Mon, 24 May 1999 AL8001@xxx.com wrote:

> The 99 Prowler has the all aluminum 3.5L V6 also used in the LHS and 300M. 
> The drive line of a Prowler consists of a front engine and a rear mounted 
> trans axel.  Similar to a Porsche 924/944, 928 and the 65 Tempest.

Dont forget the C5 Corvette.

- -Eric

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 23:36:39 EDT
From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com
Subject: 94 Truck dilemma

Hi People,
         I have spent an entire day trying to diagnose a problem, to no 
avail.  When the engine starts it runs fine for approx 10 seconds,then starts 
running extremely rich.....I then rev it up to "clean" it out and block 
learns and integrators are reasonable (123-125) then gradually returning to 
idle all numbers stay within reason and again will idle fine now for about 
3-4 seconds then whammo rich again, I was fortunate enough to have the exact 
year and truck to start swapping parts with.....here is a list of what I have 
checked or changed....
Fuel Pressure      steady at 13 when problem is occuring or not
TPS voltage         steady, no intermittent highs or lows
Map Voltage        steady, no intermittent highs or lows......even tried 
another
Coil                     coil was tried from other truck....supply voltage 13+
Tach lead disconnected from coil to verify no shorting of tach
Throttle Body and injectors were exhanged for the other truck
BHMX (matching)computer chip tried from other truck
Computer tried from other truck
Distributor tried from other truck
EGR checked for leaks and even blocked off at one point to verify idle problem
Temp sensor checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps
Knock circuit checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps
Timing verified and verified 10 degree jump with rpm(wire pulled) still 
changed dist later
Spark plugs changed....compression checked ,all within 20 lbs of each other.
Another shop had already replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs... to try to 
fix problem.
Customer had just come from muffler shop and had new o2 sensor, y pipe and 
cat back system installed since previous shop had told him he had a plugged 
cat.
Stored data on the scanner of 75 frames prior to engine stumble and 25 after 
....looked at every frame and compared all data points to see what voltages 
had moved or even if vss had somehow gone crazy......
All this and no codes on the scanner (unless you let it idle poorly so long 
it sets the high map voltage code)
The above is not in the order of which things were changed...just trying to 
recall from a very frustrating day.
At the end of the day I got the idea it has to be some sort of a grounding 
problem and the only grounds I know of on the engine are the two small ones 
near the thermostat, the two on the passenger rear of engine(one goes to the 
chassis from the engine and one goes to the frame)and the main battery ground 
cable......All seems ok.....but maybe there's more I am missing here......I 
then unhooked the battery for a few minutes (last ditch effort) and truck 
started and ran normally this time for 7-8 minutes,,,not seconds..........One 
last thing is this truck has had lots of stereo put in it and lots of 
capacitors for noise......if anyone can give me a spot to look tomorrow I 
would sure appreciate it and get back to the group with my 
findings......Thanks in advance.
- -Carl Summers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:53:22 -0700
From: Christopher J Beasley <chris_beasley@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: NTK UEGO response

Gar Willis wrote:snip

> You will see that the assembled meter will ALSO be aggressively priced to kick
> competitive butt with the NTK-interface, Horiba, E.C.M., etc.'s lowest end
> devices as well, AND provide better functionality for the far fewer bucks. The
> idea is that NOW, there is enough of a market to go for some volume, instead of
> treating them as high-end devices only racing teams are interested in/can
> afford. The times, they are a-changin.

So can I assume that the Honda sensor being referred to is a true wide band O2
sensor?
And that the "modules" are the associated electronice?
And that a "meter" would be an associated display?

Will there be a group buy in the offing?
Cheers!
Beez

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:37:41 +0930
From: "Jackson, Trevor" <trevor.jackson@xxx.au>
Subject: Nissan Pulsar ET Turbo - HF8311 Transistor used for ignition?

I'm trying to help a friend fix his Pulsar ET Turbo - It appears as thought
the transistor used to switch the coil is stuffed. It's a HF8311. Does
anyone know what it is and where I can get some info on it? - I've searched
the web a bit and can't find anything.


Trevor

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 03:58:37 EDT
From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com
Subject: Re: EEC-IV  Schematics & Pinout

Chilton Manual!  At the end of the wiring diagrams for each year/motor is 
usually the EEC-IV Pinout list...

An idea

John Miller
91 FHP CopStang
86/89 Stang & Merkur XR4Ti 2.3L Turbo motor Hybrid
84 GT350 5.0 T-Top
79 5.0 EEC-IV Twin Turbo Project Stang

In a message dated 5/24/99 6:00:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
NBailey@xxx.com writes:

<< Hello, I am new to the list. :o)
 
 I Have a Question...
 I was wondering if anyone out there would know
 where I could possible get the schematics and pinout
 of the EEC-IV Computer. I would like to start my own
 project . Any info would be great... Thanks.
 
 Neal >>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 04:19:36 -0400
From: Shannen Durphey <shannen@xxx.com>
Subject: Re: 94 Truck dilemma

EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com wrote:
> 
> Hi People,
>          I have spent an entire day trying to diagnose a problem, to no
> avail.  When the engine starts it runs fine for approx 10 seconds,then starts
> running extremely rich.....I then rev it up to "clean" it out and block
> learns and integrators are reasonable (123-125) then gradually returning to
> idle all numbers stay within reason and again will idle fine now for about
> 3-4 seconds then whammo rich again, I was fortunate enough to have the exact
> year and truck to start swapping parts with.....here is a list of what I have
> checked or changed....
> Fuel Pressure      steady at 13 when problem is occuring or not
> TPS voltage         steady, no intermittent highs or lows
> Map Voltage        steady, no intermittent highs or lows......even tried
> another
> Coil                     coil was tried from other truck....supply voltage 13+
> Tach lead disconnected from coil to verify no shorting of tach
> Throttle Body and injectors were exhanged for the other truck
> BHMX (matching)computer chip tried from other truck
> Computer tried from other truck
> Distributor tried from other truck
> EGR checked for leaks and even blocked off at one point to verify idle problem
> Temp sensor checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps
> Knock circuit checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps
> Timing verified and verified 10 degree jump with rpm(wire pulled) still
> changed dist later
> Spark plugs changed....compression checked ,all within 20 lbs of each other.
> Another shop had already replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs... to try to
> fix problem.
> Customer had just come from muffler shop and had new o2 sensor, y pipe and
> cat back system installed since previous shop had told him he had a plugged
> cat.
> Stored data on the scanner of 75 frames prior to engine stumble and 25 after
> ....looked at every frame and compared all data points to see what voltages
> had moved or even if vss had somehow gone crazy......
> All this and no codes on the scanner (unless you let it idle poorly so long
> it sets the high map voltage code)
> The above is not in the order of which things were changed...just trying to
> recall from a very frustrating day.
> At the end of the day I got the idea it has to be some sort of a grounding
> problem and the only grounds I know of on the engine are the two small ones
> near the thermostat, the two on the passenger rear of engine(one goes to the
> chassis from the engine and one goes to the frame)and the main battery ground
> cable......All seems ok.....but maybe there's more I am missing here......I
> then unhooked the battery for a few minutes (last ditch effort) and truck
> started and ran normally this time for 7-8 minutes,,,not seconds..........One
> last thing is this truck has had lots of stereo put in it and lots of
> capacitors for noise......if anyone can give me a spot to look tomorrow I
> would sure appreciate it and get back to the group with my
> findings......Thanks in advance.
> -Carl Summers

I try to eliminate as many sensors as possible when something like
this happens.  You never mentioned O2 readings.  Don't fall into the
trap thinking a replaced part is a good one. I agree with Sneezy, try
disconnecting O2 while running rich, see if fuel delivery returns to
normal.  I've seen problems with aftermarket sensors.  Sometimes they
do strange things.  Also had trouble with ground at thermostat housing
causing problems.  ECM O2 circuit grounds there.  Make sure all
threads and water outlet are clean, and that the wire isn't corroded
inside the terminal crimp.  Sounds like you're using a Snap-on
scanner, so data refresh rates should be fast enough to catch an
intermittent problem.  Can you force the engine to go leaner by faking
signals to ecm?  Is it responding to a rich O2 signal?  Can you make
it respond to one?  Exhaust system prividing suitable ground?  Is this
an old problem, or something that just came about?  
HTH.  If I think of anything else, I'll post it.  Let us know what you
find.
Shannen

------------------------------

End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #304
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