DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, May 25 1999 Volume 04 : Number 305 In this issue: Re: 94 Truck dilemma Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: Simple Injection Questions Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: NTK UEGO response Re: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: EEC-IV Schematics & Pinout Re: 94 Truck dilemma Re: Need help with board selection Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: Prowler V6 Re: alternative engines, now Hemi [none] Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: Simple Injection Questions question on cooling system Re: 94 Truck dilemma Re: question on cooling system Ignition retard knock sensor. Re: question on cooling system Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: question on cooling system See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:21:25 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: 94 Truck dilemma At 11:36 PM 5/24/99 -0400, you wrote: >Hi People, >Customer had just come from muffler shop and had new o2 sensor, y pipe and >cat back system installed since previous shop had told him he had a plugged >cat. >Stored data on the scanner of 75 frames prior to engine stumble and 25 after >....looked at every frame and compared all data points to see what voltages >had moved or even if vss had somehow gone crazy...... >All this and no codes on the scanner (unless you let it idle poorly so long >it sets the high map voltage code) If it's setting a high MAP voltage then the ground to the MAP or the vacuum line to the MAP is disconnected. High MAP means no vacuum which means add fuel to the computer. Also, I know I have beat this to death, but if the muffler shop put in a new O2 sensor and it's a Bosch 4 wire heated sensor, that could be the problem as well... The bosch 4 wire heated O2 has no internal ground for the sensor... AC grounds the low side of the sensor to the shell. My LeSabre did the exact same thing until I went back to an AC 4 wire heated sensor. =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:09:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: > SNIP > > | why not have a spark plug with a very long nose and no side electrode > > Saab done it already, trouble was erosion at top of ring pattern when spark > occured. cool thanks for the info, just one question: was that due to arcing at that area? > Grumpy - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:21:55 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Simple Injection Questions Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: > > Ya, but look at the drivetrain inertia your taking about. Your syclone with > it's 4WD is over twice as much as any other vehicle so when it drops off, > and back on it is violent, and would be under any strategy, IMHO. Probably > a Saab ATP (?) APC ( automatic performence control) It could also retard the timing, and would open the wastegate when the brake was applied. I think I still have the training manuals for it ( if I do I'll scan and upload it ) > Running a boost cutoff, overspeed management, and then a > fuel cut.. Don't let things turn back on at 16 PSI of boost. Subarus will do this if the wastegate seizes ( full fuel cutoff at hi boost nearly puts you through the windshield, then turns on and gives you whiplash) > Also, depends on driver. Hitting a fuel stop in a drag car can mean > something failed, and the run should be aborted. So the driver ends the run > by lifting, rather than keeping his foot in it. > I wouldn't use it a signal to shift or to flat foot thur it (not > lifting). > Grumpy > > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:22:50 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi - ----- Original Message ----- From: Pat Ford To: Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 8:09 AM Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi | Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: | SNIP | > | why not have a spark plug with a very long nose and no side electrode | > Saab done it already, trouble was erosion at top of ring pattern when spark | > occured. | cool thanks for the info, just one question: | was that due to arcing at that area? Shouldn't have been arcing, they mentioned erosion of the cylinder wall where the ring travel stopped. I'm quessing but, it sounds like the lubrication oil film has enough resistance theat the only grounds left are thru the rings (or the ones with least resistance. Grumpy | > Grumpy | | | -- | Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com | QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com | (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews | (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 | ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:58:32 -0700 From: garfield@xxx.com (Gar Willis) Subject: Re: NTK UEGO response On Mon, 24 May 1999 20:53:22 -0700, Christopher J Beasley wrote: >So can I assume that the Honda sensor being referred to is a true wide band O2 >sensor? Ah yup. The sensor YOU will buy from Honda, will be the one we've posted about here previously, which is a 5-wire current pump type made by NTK for Honda. >And that the "modules" are the associated electronice? Ah yup. But ONLY the associated electonics to interface the sensor to YOUR additional electronics, be it engine manager or AFR meter/logger or whatever. >And that a "meter" would be an associated display? If it's YOUR meter that you're building, there will certainly be more electronics involved than simply a "display". What that electronics needs to be will be in the separately licenseable PLANS, if you're not up to the task of designing one of your own. If OTOH you're refering to EGOR-the-meter, the fully assembled commercial product, the "Precision AFR Meter", then there will be CONSIDERABLY more electronics involved in the "meter", than simply a display. >Will there be a group buy in the offing? Nope. The modules will be aggressively priced down to the point where there will be no room for further discounting. Besides, they will be personalized to the buyer, so that distributing them in lots to one group buyer will also not be possible. I believe the same is gonna be true on the meters. They too will be personalized. The company that makes them will also handle distribution and sales. They're 'galactic', so they'll handle everything. B) Gar ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:05:41 EDT From: Tedscj@xxx.com Subject: Re: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi In a message dated 5/24/99, 7:06:35 PM, diy_efi@xxx.edu writes: <> I'd have to agree. The only reasons to have one of those old hemis are... It looks neat, It sounds neat, and you can say "I have a Hemi under the hood!" Just don't try to race anybody! Ted ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:11:02 -0500 (CDT) From: "Gregory A. Parmer" Subject: Re: EEC-IV Schematics & Pinout On Mon, 24 May 1999, Neal Bailey wrote: > where I could possible get the schematics and pinout > of the EEC-IV Computer. I would like to start my own > project . Any info would be great... Thanks. Neal, As Steve mentioned, the link is on the DIY_EFI website under OEM/Ford. Or go directly to the central site at--- http://www.austin.cc.tx.us/ESA/tc_eec.htm - -greg ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:41:10 -0700 From: neilaura@xxx.com Subject: Re: 94 Truck dilemma At 11:36 PM 5/24/99 EDT, you wrote: >Hi People, > I have spent an entire day trying to diagnose a problem, to no >avail. When the engine starts it runs fine for approx 10 seconds,then starts >running extremely rich.....I then rev it up to "clean" it out and block >learns and integrators are reasonable (123-125) then gradually returning to >idle all numbers stay within reason and again will idle fine now for about >3-4 seconds then whammo rich again, Start with the obvious Carl. Pinch off the hose from the purge canister and see if you get an improvement. I've had problems with them opening too early or leaking. Neil ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:19:10 -0500 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: Need help with board selection Darren -- Try picking up a 730/727 ECM at the junkyard. There is a commented disassembly at the ECMGUY's site. If you really want to roll your own you can erase the PROM and write your own software. These ECMs have all the code in the PROM so you can do all the code yourself if you want. Plus the A/D, PWM outputs, injector/coil drivers etc. are already set up for you. And, it comes in a nice aluminum box. I think that's a far better deal than you're likely to find buying some kind of demo or project board. - --steve > Darren Ginter wrote: > > Hello, > > I'm new to the DIY_EFI stuff but I am interested in working on an EFI > project. The only problem is that I only want to do the software > aspect of it and simply purchase complete, over the counter hardware. > > Doesn anyone have any recommendations? I'm not looking to spend a > whole lot but I will go the extra mile for good technology. I > *really* like the MPC555 but can't really find much in the way of a > setup that I can get going right away on. > > Any help is appreciated. > > Darren - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:43:42 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Good point Jason!, Dually noted! Thanks for the info BEFORE I attempted the mod! LATER! Todd....!! SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote: > > If you really want cross bolted caps in a wedge then ProGram makes a set > that are designed to work w/ the wedge block. But it's not a Black and > Decker deal. You have to put the block in a mill and fit it for the caps to > mate up. > > While you're there you may as well add provisions for the Stage V hemi heads > ;) > > BTW - a Rat Roaster is probably THE worst manifold to try to adapt to EFI - > it has a top plate that would interfere with the injectors - a tunnel ram > would be MUCH easier. If you still have your heart set on it then I'd > suggest you go look at a GM CPI 4.3L V-6. That would probably be easier to > do > > FWIW - Jason > > > > >On Mon, 24 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote: > > > >> Thanks for the info Jim!, > >> > >> As for the B/RB block not having the provisions for cross bolts, that > >> can be SIMPLY remedied by my good ol handy n durable Black n decker > >> drill! LOL! > >> > >The hemi block has a lot more metal in the area where the cross bolts go. > >You could put the bolts into a non-hemi block, but they would not add much > >strength, in fact they would probably crack the block when under load. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:44:44 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Will try n get ya a pic and/or the numbers today... Post em tomorr if I do! Thanks! LATER! Todd....!! CLsnyder wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Todd....!! > To: > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:29 PM > Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi > > > So, the 392 was only in TWO years of cars? > > Yup, 2 years only - Chrysler New Yorker, 300C, and Imperial only. Dual Quads > on the 300C only. > > > > It could be that year, but it looks older than a 58, will verify! > > Get me a picture, I'll tell you the year. If you can get the serial number > off the left front door hinge pillar it will help . > > > > Maybe I'll take a dig pic of the thing and post it on one of my sites > > and ask ya'll to look at it and tell me wxactly what year the beast is!? > > > > My Bee would look REALLY COOL with a HEMI in it! > > > > Thanks! > > > > Todd....!! > > > > CLsnyder wrote: > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Todd....!! > > > To: > > > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:23 PM > > > Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi > > > > > > > Sounds like a painful operation to me!! > > > > > > > > ALSO, BTW - FYI - Found a HUGE IMPERIAL cruisin in the junk yard > > > > universe this weekend, and it has a HEMI IN IT!! > > > > > > > > HOWEVER it's an old 50's or early 60's at the latest car, I can't tell > > > > what year it is.. but the distributor is in the rear of the hemi, > which > > > > means that is ain't a 426(426's dist is in the front like the newer > > > > mopar BB's) So the question now is, is this engine truly a 392 or > just > > > > a 331...? > > > > > > > 392 was used in '57 and '58. '56 was a 353. '51 to '55 were 331. > > > > > > Single headlights up to '56. > > > > EITHER way, it IS a hemi and it is HUGE! NO ONE will be able to tel > the > > > > diff tween it and a REAL 426 hemi except for the distributor sittin in > > > > the back! > > > > > > > > Anybody know how to tell what year the car is or whether or not the > > > > engine is a 331 or 392 hemi? > > > > > > > > They only want $300 for it, and that's still negotiable... > > > > > > > > Will be checkin for info on how to tell what this engine is... > > > > > > > > May just have ta pull a head to check the bore and pull the crank to > > > > check the stroke or somethin... the bore should tell me nuff? Will > be > > > > gettin the specs and differences tween the 331 and 392 as well... > > > > > > > > LATER! > > > > > > > > Todd....!! > > > > > > > > > > > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Actually, the plug location in a Hemi is bad because it is off to > one > > > side. > > > > > > Its the best you can do with a Hemi but its still bad. As a > result it > > > needs > > > > > > > > > > >From what I've read a not so uncommon mod for all out racing is to > > > drill > > > > > and tap another spark plug hole... but I've not found anything on > the > > > > > net about it. Someone who was slightly intoxicated mentioned this > to me > > > > > in a bar a year or so ago. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:28:22 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi OK, sounds like you've got some PERSONAL experience on the issue! OUCH! That musta hurt! As for using Gas instead of Diesel for fuel in an engine using the diesel combustion principle, sounds like Fuel has more energy per volume than diesel, true? So why can't we just reduce the amount of fuel goin into the cylinder to compensate for the additional energy released! Let me know, I know no other place where I could attain the answer to this question besides the super intellegent people right here on this list! Thanks!, LATER! Todd....!! David A. Cooley wrote: > > At 02:55 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote: > >OK David, > > > >Ya just made me think of a question havin to do with the 'diesel' > >principle that you just stated.... > > > >Most diesels' static compression ratio's are pretty much over 20:1 > >right? > > > > For the most part... some turbo diesels are 18:1 or so, but normally > aspirated diesels are 22:1 to 25:1 CR > > >Why don't they just squirt regular fuel in at these temps instead of > >diesel? > > > > the rate of combustion would be too high and the detonation resistance too > low... Basically would blow the heads right off the engine! > (Seen it happen on a mercedes 300D... guy filled up with Regular gas and > drove off... about a block later, heard a large BOOM and he was at the side > of the road with lots of smoke... Opened the hood and it appeared to have > sheared the head bolts... head was about 1/4" above the block!) > > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! > =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:30:12 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi SHOOT! I can't remember if it has quad headlights or not!! Will probably be goin back to that yard this evenin just to check on all teh things everyone's been postin! Thanks for the link as well, this is a new link for me! Appreciate it! Will let ya know HOW IT GOES! LATER!, Todd....!! - ---------- Tedscj@xxx.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/24/99, 11:54:37 AM, diy_efi@xxx.edu > writes: > < >> > > Try www.powerplayhemi.com/idengine.htm > The engine serial # is at the front of the block, just in front of the oil > filler/breather tube. > Also, if it has LARGE fins you will know it is a '56-'58 which will be a 354 > or 392ci. If not, then it is a -'55, which will be a 331ci. And again a > quad headlamp set-up in '58. > Ted ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:45:48 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi I hear ya talkin rap, All VERY good real world advice and points! BUT, the LOOKS of the HEMI are AWESOME! How many HP do ya think are possible outaof a 392? What was the torque and hp from the factory? I don't even know the bore n stroke of teh sucker, but those HEADS ARE HUGE MAN!! Your points are well taken and dually noted! Appreciate the input man! I need all I can get! As it sounds you surely understand! Will keep ya posted on the outcome! Later!, Todd....!! .. wrote: > > You need to check the numbers on the block to be sure, a lot of engines get > swapped out over time. Secondly, to make that old hemi perform you have to spend > bundles of bucks. Those old long and flimsy stock rockers have to go and the > replacements are very expensive (big time), along with triple valve springs that > you need; that is unless you want a low rev truck engine. Then you'll need to > replace the old worn pistons with some forged slugs (you'll have to bore it anyway > to straighten out those old tapered-by-time cylinders). Add at least a roller > chain timing set (or gear drive). Then comes the cam - you gotta be careful here. > Those old hemi's can be made to give you gobs of mid and top and power with the > right cam - but you'll give away bottom end torque. So plan on driving around with > a 2800-3000 stall convertor (and not the old slush box that came with that hemi) - > good luck finding an adapter. Outside of cleaning the mice nests out of the > intakes, just clean them up a bit - don't even look at the cost of replacement > race heads unless you're REAL serious. > > In short, you'll be Time, Money and Power ahead by picking up a factory long block > and building from there. Much stronger bottom end for one thing and they breathe > like crazy!! > > Or- put less then half as much money in your existing wedge and you'll have almost > as much power, certainly more usable street power. There was/is no magic in those > old hemi's (in 1958/59 my brother ran a 392 in his '40 Ford coupe and developed > fair sized arm muscles from steering that old nose heavy beast). > rap > > "Todd....!!" wrote: > > > So, the 392 was only in TWO years of cars? > > > > It could be that year, but it looks older than a 58, will verify! > > > > Maybe I'll take a dig pic of the thing and post it on one of my sites > > and ask ya'll to look at it and tell me wxactly what year the beast is!? > > > > My Bee would look REALLY COOL with a HEMI in it! > > > > Thanks! > > > > Todd....!! > > > > CLsnyder wrote: > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Todd....!! > > > To: > > > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:23 PM > > > Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi > > > > > > > Sounds like a painful operation to me!! > > > > > > > > ALSO, BTW - FYI - Found a HUGE IMPERIAL cruisin in the junk yard > > > > universe this weekend, and it has a HEMI IN IT!! > > > > > > > > HOWEVER it's an old 50's or early 60's at the latest car, I can't tell > > > > what year it is.. but the distributor is in the rear of the hemi, which > > > > means that is ain't a 426(426's dist is in the front like the newer > > > > mopar BB's) So the question now is, is this engine truly a 392 or just > > > > a 331...? > > > > > > > 392 was used in '57 and '58. '56 was a 353. '51 to '55 were 331. > > > > > > Single headlights up to '56. > > > > EITHER way, it IS a hemi and it is HUGE! NO ONE will be able to tel the > > > > diff tween it and a REAL 426 hemi except for the distributor sittin in > > > > the back! > > > > > > > > Anybody know how to tell what year the car is or whether or not the > > > > engine is a 331 or 392 hemi? > > > > > > > > They only want $300 for it, and that's still negotiable... > > > > > > > > Will be checkin for info on how to tell what this engine is... > > > > > > > > May just have ta pull a head to check the bore and pull the crank to > > > > check the stroke or somethin... the bore should tell me nuff? Will be > > > > gettin the specs and differences tween the 331 and 392 as well... > > > > > > > > LATER! > > > > > > > > Todd....!! > > > > > > > > > > > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > Actually, the plug location in a Hemi is bad because it is off to one > > > side. > > > > > > Its the best you can do with a Hemi but its still bad. As a result it > > > needs > > > > > > > > > > >From what I've read a not so uncommon mod for all out racing is to > > > drill > > > > > and tap another spark plug hole... but I've not found anything on the > > > > > net about it. Someone who was slightly intoxicated mentioned this to me > > > > > in a bar a year or so ago. > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:56:25 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Cool to know! HOWEVER, accordin to my calculations at: ( http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/dragtable.htm ) Mid 14's are not my idea of a quick car, ESPECIALLY for that price! Even a simple lil paxton or turbo would've probably DOUBLED the power, thus givin it about 400 instead of a puny 200 hp at the rear wheels! ALSO giving it a quarter time in the 11's! Beating out the VIPER by a fair amount! What do ya think? LATER! Todd....!! AL8001@xxx.com wrote: > > The 99 Prowler has the all aluminum 3.5L V6 also used in the LHS and 300M. > The drive line of a Prowler consists of a front engine and a rear mounted > trans axel. Similar to a Porsche 924/944, 928 and the 65 Tempest. > > 3.5L all aluminum DOHC V6 253 HP @xxx. It also has a > dual tuned intake system to give a broad power curve. Compression is around > 10 to 1. > > Sounds like enough for a 2,800 Lb street cruser to me. > > The 98 and older Prowler has a lesser 3.5L V6 cast iron block with a aluminum > head. > > Power (SAE Net) 214 bhp (157 kW) @ 5850 rpm > > Torque (SAE Net) 221 lb ft (303 Nm) @ 3100 rpm > > Max Engine Speed 6464 rpm > > Harold ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:06:32 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi THAT sounds like one BAD she-vette! Well my 1981 Pontiac T-1000 (She-vette) wouldn't hook AT ALL (till 2nd gear) unless I had a full load of people in the car..., with a full car I could push/slide the front tires when tryin to power brake the thing... 60 ft times were probably in the mid 2's without the buddy system in effect, but the 330 ft times were probably in the low 6's if not lower! I did break the homemade drive shaft that we made for it, luckily the professionally made one was already done and they brought it to me where the car broke down at! Cool machine shop, ey? LATER! Todd....!! .. wrote: > > Almost as dangerous as the dude that used to run about Pensacola, Fl. when > I lived there with the 427 Chev where the rear seat of a Chevette once > resided; tube frame and tubbed rear end and all. By the way, how many feet > did the Chevette rear end last on a good launch???? 10, maybe 15??? > rap > > "Todd....!!" wrote: > > > I put a 400 s.b.c. in a 2-door 1981 Chevette, talk about dangerous... > > > > Used the original rear end, so it was pretty tame at launch due to it > > being an open rear end, but once it hit second, I'd let off the gas and > > romp it again and have FULL traction! Whoopeeee.... > > > > It weighed 2,345 lbs. after the install, also used the TH375 auto outa > > the Impala Wagon as well... > > > > The driveshaft was about 2 to 3 ft. long! The Chevette's rear end > > housing has a REALLY ong front end on it, at LEAST a foot long! maybe > > longer! > > > > COOL? > > > > LATER! > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:27:04 -0700 From: Vance Rose Subject: [none] Hi Bruce Get well soon. You'll be in my thoughts. Vance ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:29:49 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Good question! I was wonderin the same thing, but thought it too minute of a question to ask! Thanks for askin it! Sincerely!, Todd....!! - ------------ Pat Ford wrote: > > Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: > > > SNIP > > > > | why not have a spark plug with a very long nose and no side electrode > > > > Saab done it already, trouble was erosion at top of ring pattern when spark > > occured. > > cool thanks for the info, just one question: > > was that due to arcing at that area? > > > Grumpy > > -- > Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com > QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com > (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews > (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:31:22 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Simple Injection Questions Pat, That's why they made Seat belts and those neck brace/rolls, so ya wouldn't fly thru the windshield nor get whiplash on the way back down! lol... LATER! Todd....!! Pat Ford wrote: > > Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: > > > > > Ya, but look at the drivetrain inertia your taking about. Your syclone with > > it's 4WD is over twice as much as any other vehicle so when it drops off, > > and back on it is violent, and would be under any strategy, IMHO. Probably > > a Saab ATP (?) > > APC ( automatic performence control) It could also retard the timing, and > would open the wastegate when the brake was applied. I think I still have the > training manuals for it ( if I do I'll scan and upload it ) > > > Running a boost cutoff, overspeed management, and then a > > fuel cut.. Don't let things turn back on at 16 PSI of boost. > > Subarus will do this if the wastegate seizes ( full fuel cutoff at hi > boost nearly puts you through the windshield, then turns on and gives > you whiplash) > > > Also, depends on driver. Hitting a fuel stop in a drag car can mean > > something failed, and the run should be aborted. So the driver ends the run > > by lifting, rather than keeping his foot in it. > > I wouldn't use it a signal to shift or to flat foot thur it (not > > lifting). > > Grumpy > > > > > > -- > Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com > QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com > (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews > (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:43:52 -0700 From: "Stowe, Ted-SEA" Subject: question on cooling system this may sound crazy but I thought I'd ask. question, in working on my Chevy 350 block, (valve job), I noticed that my cooling system, (heater core, block) is not pristine. in accidentally finding some heavy hydraulic web sites, I wondered if anyone has ever thought of some kind of filter in the heater hoses to trap rust, scale, etc, rather than letting it flow through the system. some of the stuff I've seen on the web, (not automotive), has been real impressive looking, at the very least one might use a patch of clear tubing and visually see the color/flow/ air content of the coolant, might be interesting. thanks, Ted. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:15:20 -0400 From: "CLsnyder" Subject: Re: 94 Truck dilemma - ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 11:36 PM Subject: 94 Truck dilemma Carl, have you changed the oil? Checked level and dilution? That would be my starting point. > Hi People, > I have spent an entire day trying to diagnose a problem, to no > avail. When the engine starts it runs fine for approx 10 seconds,then starts > running extremely rich.....I then rev it up to "clean" it out and block > learns and integrators are reasonable (123-125) then gradually returning to > idle all numbers stay within reason and again will idle fine now for about > 3-4 seconds then whammo rich again, I was fortunate enough to have the exact > year and truck to start swapping parts with.....here is a list of what I have > checked or changed.... > Fuel Pressure steady at 13 when problem is occuring or not > TPS voltage steady, no intermittent highs or lows > Map Voltage steady, no intermittent highs or lows......even tried > another > Coil coil was tried from other truck....supply voltage 13+ > Tach lead disconnected from coil to verify no shorting of tach > Throttle Body and injectors were exhanged for the other truck > BHMX (matching)computer chip tried from other truck > Computer tried from other truck > Distributor tried from other truck > EGR checked for leaks and even blocked off at one point to verify idle problem > Temp sensor checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps > Knock circuit checked on scanner to verify no intermittent jumps > Timing verified and verified 10 degree jump with rpm(wire pulled) still > changed dist later > Spark plugs changed....compression checked ,all within 20 lbs of each other. > Another shop had already replaced cap, rotor, wires, and plugs... to try to > fix problem. > Customer had just come from muffler shop and had new o2 sensor, y pipe and > cat back system installed since previous shop had told him he had a plugged > cat. > Stored data on the scanner of 75 frames prior to engine stumble and 25 after > ....looked at every frame and compared all data points to see what voltages > had moved or even if vss had somehow gone crazy...... > All this and no codes on the scanner (unless you let it idle poorly so long > it sets the high map voltage code) > The above is not in the order of which things were changed...just trying to > recall from a very frustrating day. > At the end of the day I got the idea it has to be some sort of a grounding > problem and the only grounds I know of on the engine are the two small ones > near the thermostat, the two on the passenger rear of engine(one goes to the > chassis from the engine and one goes to the frame)and the main battery ground > cable......All seems ok.....but maybe there's more I am missing here......I > then unhooked the battery for a few minutes (last ditch effort) and truck > started and ran normally this time for 7-8 minutes,,,not seconds..........One > last thing is this truck has had lots of stereo put in it and lots of > capacitors for noise......if anyone can give me a spot to look tomorrow I > would sure appreciate it and get back to the group with my > findings......Thanks in advance. > -Carl Summers > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:28:20 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: question on cooling system Some of the long haul stuff used to/may still use coolant filters. My total summary of what I like about clear hose: Nothing. Grumpy | this may sound crazy but I thought I'd ask. | question, in working on my Chevy 350 block, (valve job), I noticed that my | cooling system, (heater core, block) is not pristine. in accidentally | finding some heavy hydraulic web sites, I wondered if anyone has ever | thought of some kind of filter in the heater hoses to trap rust, scale, etc, | rather than letting it flow through the system. | some of the stuff I've seen on the web, (not automotive), has been real | impressive looking, at the very least one might use a patch of clear tubing | and visually see the color/flow/ air content of the coolant, might be | interesting. | thanks, Ted. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:26:27 -0700 (MST) From: d houlton x0710 Subject: Ignition retard knock sensor. Is anybody here working on some sort of ignition retarding knock sensor? I know the basics of how they work, but have seen a lot of discussion in the past couple years about how difficult it is to filter the sensor output accurately, especially when dealing with different engines and sensor locations. I'm having a serious problem with knock on my turbo'd engine. To the point I'm actually considering dishing out the $400 - $500 (or more) for the J&S knock sensor system. I've found a lot of reviews of it on the net and it does seem to work as advertised. It has the ability to retard individual knocking cylinders instead of all cylinders when knock is present. Thought I'd try the list first to see if there was a project in prgress that I could maybe get in on and help out any way I could. Or, if maybe there is already a DIY kit someone is working/developing on that they're considering selling. thanks - --Dan houlster@xxx.com http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/amigo.htm ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:27:29 -0300 From: "Xwiredtva" Subject: Re: question on cooling system This is why your supposed to flush and fill every 24000 miles or 2 yrs. Depending on how you drive, where, and how hard you are on the engine do it more frequently. In a recent rebuild on a Suzuki engine before we even started we flushed the oil and coolant with appropriate chemicals. This made it very easy to work on. Once you get it back together, be sure to clean it out, flush and fill in 5000 miles then every 24000 afterwards. Also I seem to be the only one on the Suzuki list that doesn't have overheating problems with my setup, in fact I have underheating symptoms...Makes ya wonder...Also I've heard of people porting out the coolant routes in the block to increase the amount of fluid flowing through certain areas, not sure if that works?? -Todd this may sound crazy but I thought I'd ask. question, in working on my Chevy 350 block, (valve job), I noticed that my cooling system, (heater core, block) is not pristine. in accidentally finding some heavy hydraulic web sites, I wondered if anyone has ever thought of some kind of filter in the heater hoses to trap rust, scale, etc, rather than letting it flow through the system. some of the stuff I've seen on the web, (not automotive), has been real impressive looking, at the very least one might use a patch of clear tubing and visually see the color/flow/ air content of the coolant, might be interesting. thanks, Ted. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:29:55 -0400 From: "CLsnyder" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi - ----- Original Message ----- From: Todd....!! To: Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 12:45 PM Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi > I hear ya talkin rap, > > All VERY good real world advice and points! > > BUT, the LOOKS of the HEMI are AWESOME! > > How many HP do ya think are possible outaof a 392? > > What was the torque and hp from the factory? 390 hp at 5400 stock with solid lifters and dual quads. 375@xxx.(300c) 325@xxx. > > I don't even know the bore n stroke of teh sucker, but those HEADS ARE > HUGE MAN!! > 4" bore, 3.9 stroke. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:34:58 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: question on cooling system I remember seeing in a catalog a while back, may have been summit or Jegs, a filter that went inline with the upper radiator hose... It was about $10.00 or $15.00 > this may sound crazy but I thought I'd ask. > > question, in working on my Chevy 350 block, (valve job), I noticed that my > cooling system, (heater core, block) is not pristine. in accidentally > finding some heavy hydraulic web sites, I wondered if anyone has ever > thought of some kind of filter in the heater hoses to trap rust, scale, etc, > rather than letting it flow through the system. > > some of the stuff I've seen on the web, (not automotive), has been real > impressive looking, at the very least one might use a patch of clear tubing > and visually see the color/flow/ air content of the coolant, might be > interesting. > > thanks, Ted. > ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #305 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".