DIY_EFI Digest Friday, May 28 1999 Volume 04 : Number 313 In this issue: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Knock sensor thread pitch? Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) RE: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) Re: alternative engines, now Hemi Re: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) Re: Prowler V6 Re: Knock sensor thread pitch? Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Re: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) Re: Prowler V6 Re: Ignition retard knock sensor. Re: Ignition retard knock sensor. Re: Bosch D-Jetronic Re: Prowler V6 Re: Need help with Bosch part no. Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) (no subject) Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps Re: v8 block thread cleaning Re: 1961 Corvette TPI Conversion Re: v8 block thread cleaning Re: v8 block thread cleaning Re: v8 block thread cleaning Re: 94 Truck problem solved Re: Clues Needed Re: v8 block thread cleaning RE: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps Diesel Mods NC: 2.9X posi IRS pumpking donor/halfshaft q? See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:47:26 +0100 From: Clint Sharp Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi In message <37497BA1.1BF5@xxx.net> writes >COOL DEAL! > >I know that Aluminum(AL) is a bit less than half the weight of Iron(FE) >at the moleculer level, but how much lighter is plastic than either? > >They MUSt've used steel cylinder liners in that plstic block, right? > >Just wonderin.... > >LATER! > >Todd....!! I believe there is a, or at least was going to be, a race series based 'round a plastic engine in the US, I read about it a couple of years ago now but they test drove a car and pronounced it to be a good thing. - -- Clint Sharp ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:04:58 -0700 From: Jason_Leone@xxx.com Subject: Knock sensor thread pitch? Anybody know what the available thread pitch is on a standard single wire GM knock sensor? 1/8 NPT? Reason I ask is this...I'm using an Electromotive TEC II on my VW VR6 engine, but the TEC II wants one single wire GM knock sensor. I currently have dual Bosch knock sensors (one per bank of cylinders) that came with the factory Motronic 2.9 system (but they aren't doing anything, obviously). The Bosch knock sensors are multi wire, and not single. I'll have to check my Bentley Manual wiring diagrams, to figure out the Bosch knock sensor wiring (-gnd, shield, +pos, etc.). I'm wondering if the tapped threads in the VR6 block will accept a GM knock sensor...perhaps the Bosch knock sensors are a metric thread (12mm or so)? Another thought is to use a Bosch single wire knock sensor from the late '80s and early '90s 4 cyl/8v VWs. What do you guys think? Oh yeah, "Todd...!!" gets the award for the most posts in a DIY_EFI digest. Get to work Todd, go buy some foreclosures or something! =) Jason '93 SLC ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:28:56 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi I sent this reply a few days ago: Diesel fuel needs to burn easily so it ignites the instant it is injected to produce a nice flame from the injector. Gasoline is made to resist ignition so it doesn't ignite until after the spark fires. Gasoline in a diesel will form a cloud of fuel in the chamber then detonate in a really big bang. Its funny how fuel made to resist detonation in a spark ignition engine detonates badly in a compression ignition engine and vice versa. Gary Derian > Hi Gary, > > More detail about fuel characteristics being 'all wrong' for comression > ignition? > > Thanks! > > Todd.... > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:32:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi I had an Eagle Talon, same car as yours and it ran flawlessly for 110,000 miles. Just tuneups, well ok, it needed plug wires, brake pads, tires, timing belt and a wheel bearing. Not bad. Gary Derian > Gotta love them overheads! > > My Mitsu Eclipse Turbo 5-speed is one piece of work... The 4 cams are > all ROLLER cams, and the thing is lifter-less! The rollers are in the > middle of the rockers! The cam rides right on top of the rocker arm > rollers themselves! ALL 16 of em! > > Guess what happens when a lil unsee-able hydraulic adjuster mechanism on > the opposite side from the valve on under the rocker arm getss worn or > gets crap in it? > > The thing clatters like I don't know what! Like it's not gettin oil > pressure or somethin! > > That's my current delimma with my Eclipse, the lil adjusters are > supposedly $20 each! Times 16 of em puts me WAY over budget for that > car, that's one of the reasons I'm drivin the Superbee to work n back, > I'd like to see a part that breaks cost more than $200 on my Bee! My > ENTIRE friggin 440 didn't even cost more than $135 from the junk yard! > > The Eclipse also could use another transaxle, have a crank in this > one... That'll be fun to pull again, just replaced the clutch and > timing belt within the past year... Oh what fun it is to have a foriegn > car in your lot! ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:37:22 -0700 From: "Stegbauer, Michael" Subject: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) > Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in > several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan > using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit > it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc.... > > Then mak 2 or 3 payments on each 'loan' over a 6 week period using the > $3,000 'loan' money for payment money, then go back within about 6 weeks > or so and pay all of em off, then ask for a signature loan from each > bank for about the same amount...(signature meaning NO COLLATERAL!) and > do the same thing with that signature loan money... This will build > credit with the bank(s) as well as a relationship with em... Wow! I'm looking into buying some land. If the loan officers in Houston are this stupid, maybe I should get a loan there. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 12:42:28 -0700 From: "Stegbauer, Michael" Subject: RE: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) > What about on a cast manifold? Can I just drill and tap it? Some of the > probes I've seen are a clamp on type that won't work for my manifold. > I'll need a screw in type of some sort. Is there any risk the probe (or > a brass plug) cracking the manifold from the hole? It probably depends on the manifold, but here are some directions... http://www.myzero.com/gauges/egt.html ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 16:00:54 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: alternative engines, now Hemi > rollers themselves! ALL 16 of em! Its actually a good design - less parts, no pushrods to bend or wear, yada yada. > > That's my current delimma with my Eclipse, the lil adjusters are > > supposedly $20 each! Times 16 of em puts me WAY over budget for that get a used set of heads from the junkyard for $50 a pop after listening to the car. Also, have you checked aftermarket parts for your heads? Might be less expensive than Mitsu parts, though not always. Check around! > ENTIRE friggin 440 didn't even cost more than $135 from the junk yard! See, I need to find a junkyard with a supply of decent, running 440's. Up here in CT old dodges (especially trucks) are lifted right off the flatbed/tow truck right into the squisher. Though, they have four (not one, FOUR) yugo's in the back. Can't imagine why. - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 14:04:58 -0600 From: Brian Hartman Subject: Re: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) Hahaha! It's hard for me to say the word "Bung" with a straight face :) A70Duster@xxx.com wrote: > In a message dated 5/27/1999 11:13:38 AM Mountain Daylight Time, > brianhartman@xxx.com writes: > > << drill a hole and then weld the bung >> > > Is that where bunghole comes from :)~ > > See ya, > > Mike ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 15:06:24 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Hi Fred, You'd probably know more abou the bottom ends of these newer engine's thatn I... However, my STOCK 440 can put out well over double it's stock power rating with NO mods except the blower... What about that? Are is that like comparin apples n oranges or somethin.... or tin cans vs. aluminum cans...? lol However, even with only a 30% increase in HP from 200 hp to 300 hp this would bring the e.t.'s from mid 14's to mid 12's, a GREAT improvement! and that may even make the prowler a Viper contender, at least in the 1/4 mile, ey? I think the bottom end would hold double... In the old days, the big ol muscle v-8's could hold around 3 or more times the stock advertisedd HP!! I'm pretty sure the newer engine's can hold at least DOUBLE, don't ya think? Wonder if the Prowlers crank and/or rods are forged? Just look at what the shtang dudes are doin with BONE STOCK 5.0 engines! with the paxtons and s, t, u, v, w, x, y, & z trim centrif. superchargers.... Stock the stangy pulls a MAX of 225 hp at the flywheel, these dudes are pushin AT LEAST double that with these chargers! Ya know! That's why YOU YOURSELF have a turbo fetish of your own.... It's like runnin 'FREE' HP! LATER! Todd.... http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > >Mid 14's are not my idea of a quick car, ESPECIALLY for that price! > > Its not designed to be quick - just cool looking. > > >Even a simple lil paxton or turbo would've probably DOUBLED the power, > >thus givin it about 400 instead of a puny 200 hp at the rear wheels! > > Realistically, you're not going to double the power without doing some > major, major work. New rods, crank, transaxle, clutch at an absolute > minimum. A nitrous shot would help, but still, the bottom end is not > all that tough. > > With a Paxton, you'd get 7-8 lbs of boost, which would give you another > 1/3 or so HP. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 15:35:02 -0500 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: Knock sensor thread pitch? As I recall it is 1/4" NPT. I had to plug the old location and drill/tap a new one for my V8 S-10 conversion - --steve Jason_Leone@xxx.com wrote: > > Anybody know what the available thread pitch is on a standard single wire GM > knock sensor? 1/8 NPT? > > Reason I ask is this...I'm using an Electromotive TEC II on my VW VR6 engine, > but the TEC II wants one single wire GM knock sensor. I currently have dual > Bosch knock sensors (one per bank of cylinders) that came with the factory > Motronic 2.9 system (but they aren't doing anything, obviously). The Bosch knock > sensors are multi wire, and not single. I'll have to check my Bentley Manual > wiring diagrams, to figure out the Bosch knock sensor wiring (-gnd, shield, > +pos, etc.). I'm wondering if the tapped threads in the VR6 block will accept a > GM knock sensor...perhaps the Bosch knock sensors are a metric thread (12mm or > so)? > > Another thought is to use a Bosch single wire knock sensor from the late '80s > and early '90s 4 cyl/8v VWs. What do you guys think? > > Oh yeah, "Todd...!!" gets the award for the most posts in a DIY_EFI digest. Get > to work Todd, go buy some foreclosures or something! =) > > Jason > '93 SLC - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 17:08:18 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) > > Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in > > several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan > > using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit > > it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc.... > > > > Then mak 2 or 3 payments on each 'loan' over a 6 week period using the > > $3,000 'loan' money for payment money, then go back within about 6 weeks > > or so and pay all of em off, then ask for a signature loan from each > > bank for about the same amount...(signature meaning NO COLLATERAL!) and > > do the same thing with that signature loan money... This will build > > credit with the bank(s) as well as a relationship with em... And if you screw up and miss a payment or they find out what you are doing, you go to jail for "Kiting". Federal offense, do not pass go, do not collect $200.00 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 17:09:16 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: EGT gauge (was: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor.) > Hahaha! It's hard for me to say the word "Bung" with a straight face :) > I am the great Cornholio... I have no Bunghole....... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 17:18:29 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > However, my STOCK 440 can put out well over double it's stock power > rating with NO mods except the blower... What about that? Are is that > like comparin apples n oranges or somethin.... or tin cans vs. aluminum > cans...? lol > > However, even with only a 30% increase in HP from 200 hp to 300 hp this > would bring the e.t.'s from mid 14's to mid 12's, a GREAT improvement! > and that may even make the prowler a Viper contender, at least in the > 1/4 mile, ey? 30% more from a 200HP engine would be 260... 50% more would be 300 > > I think the bottom end would hold double... > > In the old days, the big ol muscle v-8's could hold around 3 or more > times the stock advertisedd HP!! I'm pretty sure the newer engine's can > hold at least DOUBLE, don't ya think? > Nope... They try so hard to cut costs that MOST engines are built at the ragged edge of holding together anymore... A good performance engine now adays may hold another 50% but not double. > Wonder if the Prowlers crank and/or rods are forged? Nope... It's a plain vanilla V6 that they also put in their FWD cars. > > Just look at what the shtang dudes are doin with BONE STOCK 5.0 engines! > with the paxtons and s, t, u, v, w, x, y, & z trim centrif. > superchargers.... > That 5.0 is a 30 year old design... The new 4.6 won't hold much more than 30% over stock without new crank, rods etc, and the 4.6 has been the ONLY V8 stang motor for the last 2-3 years. > Stock the stangy pulls a MAX of 225 hp at the flywheel, these dudes are > pushin AT LEAST double that with these chargers! Ya know! > That's what they'd like you to believe... Most are lucky to get 300HP with TONS of cash dumped into the car. I know plenty of Stang owners that would love to see 400HP without buying a complete new engine. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 17:23:32 -0400 From: Ken Kelly Subject: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor. David, I have been running a Carter knock eliminator on my street rod for the last year. It actually works great. I would love to have a copy of the schematic. I've never known anyone else to use one. I bought it brand new at a flea market last year. It looks to be a late 70's or early 80's vintage product. Ken d houlton x0710 wrote: > > David Piper wrote: > > > > I have schematic of orig Carter knock eliminator. Understand that each > > engine has unique acoustic profile that may require filtering to be > > effective. I applied MSD knock detector to my Z on DynoJet to no avail. > > > > Better design uses DSP customized to engine. > > I'm not familiar with that. What is the Carter knock eliminator? Can > you send me the schmatic or post it to the ftp site? How does it work, > what's it cost, etc, etc. Any sites with more info? > > thanks > --Dan > houlster@xxx.com > http://www.inficad.com/~houlster/amigo.htm ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 17:48:39 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Ignition retard knock sensor. > I have schematic of orig Carter knock eliminator. Understand that each > engine has unique acoustic profile that may require filtering to be > effective. I applied MSD knock detector to my Z on DynoJet to no avail. > > Better design uses DSP customized to engine. > I was working at Carter during development. circa 1978 Most was done in lab with freq. sources, I do not recall testing it on dyno. and have forgot the project engineer name. but he looked like Elton John. alex ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 10:08:56 +1200 From: Mike Morrin Subject: Re: Bosch D-Jetronic At 04:10 pm 26/05/99 -0700, James Thomas wrote: > The ITB rules do not allow us to substitute alternate injection systems > but your suggestion of a digital control unit is interesting. What >information do you have regarding retrofitting a digital unit to the >K-Jet system? I presume you mean d-jet. Most any of the aftermarket systems will work, but one point to watch is the injector flow rate. The original d-jet injectors have a much greater flow rate (for the engine size) than most modern systems. This causes problems with getting the idle right unless the injectors are pulsed only one per 720 crank degrees. Many aftermarket ECUs pulse the injectors every 360 degrees. You can overcome this by fitting smaller injectors, or find an ECU designed for a camshaft driven trigger. BTW, do you have any info on the correct calibration procedure for the LVDT (map sensor) used on the D-jet systems? The only (unofficial) procedure I have seen is to adjust for correct HCs at 2500 rpm unloaded. Mike Morrin 1975 Jaguar XJ-S with d-jetronic ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:38:02 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > 30% more from a 200HP engine would be 260... 50% more would be 300 Maybe Todd and I should split a calculator :) > Nope... They try so hard to cut costs that MOST engines are built at the > ragged edge of holding together anymore... I've learned this the hard way unfortunately. > 30% over stock without new crank, rods etc, and the 4.6 has been the ONLY V8 > stang motor for the last 2-3 years. I actually like the motor... was going to use one in my mid-engine car project, with a Paxton. Nice and simple. > TONS of cash dumped into the car. I know plenty of Stang owners that would > love to see 400HP without buying a complete new engine. Not to be opposite, but I find that hard to believe, especially with a transplanted 302 or 351... both are decent designs and have more to give. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 18:27:19 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Need help with Bosch part no. I have access to a box full of Euro regulators at a US envirnomental affairs site. The Euro regs have atmospheric(boost) and vacuum ports The main diff. it seems in regualtors is spring and heater ratings for cold start. You can adjust cold and hot pressures with a BFH or similiar hammer. alex > Hi List > > I would need some hwlp with a Bosch part number - it is a (special) fuel > pressure regulator from a 1979 (ish) Saab 99 Turbo (K-jetronic). Looks as > your normal pressure regulator, but I suspect it should reference to boost, > but I'm not sure, and don't know the "rate" (boost vs fuel pressure). > > The part number is 0 280 160 208 , stamped under that is 822. > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:10:53 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? From: Todd....!! Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? | I'm TOTALLY interested in turbo(s), WITH INTERCOOLING! | Intercoolin is a must in these days of enlightment n all... Not really just one way to do something. Grumpy ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:19:56 -0400 From: "Peter D. Hipson" Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Careful, that's very close to check kiting... A federal offence, btw. At 12:37 PM 5/27/99 -0700, you wrote: > >> Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in >> several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan >> using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit >> it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc.... >> >> Then mak 2 or 3 payments on each 'loan' over a 6 week period using the >> $3,000 'loan' money for payment money, then go back within about 6 weeks >> or so and pay all of em off, then ask for a signature loan from each >> bank for about the same amount...(signature meaning NO COLLATERAL!) and >> do the same thing with that signature loan money... This will build >> credit with the bank(s) as well as a relationship with em... > >Wow! I'm looking into buying some land. If the loan officers in >Houston are this stupid, maybe I should get a loan there. > > > Thanks, Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG) 1995 White NA Hummer Wagon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:12:06 -0400 (EDT) From: William T Wilson Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) On Thu, 27 May 1999, Stegbauer, Michael wrote: > > Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in > > several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan > > using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit > > it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc.... A stunt like this will cost you a fortune in interest. However, it's mathematically sound. Basic economics class will demonstrate that exactly the same phenomenon is already at work and makes the banking system go. It is marginally useful for building credit references, but otherwise, won't do you much good. The credit bureaus know how much money you have loaned out total, and they know how many loans you have, too. And, of course, you have to pay the interest on the total amount you have borrowed whether it is in small or large lumps. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:39:19 EDT From: FHPSTANG1@xxx.com Subject: (no subject) First night at the track for the 2.3L Turbo (Originally MERKUR motor) 86/89 mustang. It kept running mid 15's. We discovered a burnt coil wire, and swapped one out with another car. It then ran high 14's. Best time so far 14.61 @xxx. The only mods so far are a free flowing exhaust (The muffler fell off), 16º of Cam retard, 10 initial spark timing, and 15psi boost. Shift points are at 6K rpm using a 4+1 (Straight Six 5 speed Manual tranny). Launches are at 4K. and this is on a peg legged 195/75R14 tire, 3.73 7.5" rear end. Other than that, the motor is STOCK.... LOL. What does a stock Merkur XR4Ti run? Or one with similar Mods.. I just would like to say thanks to the list members that have helped this project along the way. Total cost so far (Including price of car) is $600. Not bad.. $600 running 14's. Next I will be working on my 79 Twin Turbo 5.0 EFI project, and I know I will need help with that one! John Miller 91 FHP Special Service 86/89 stang & 2.3L Turbo Merkur motor Hybrid 84 GT350 5.0 T-Top 79 Twin Turbo EFI 5.0 PROJECT ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 08:23:34 +0800 From: dzorde@xxx.com Subject: Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps Dave, its a Fiat 903cc, 4cyl, bore/stroke=65.6mmx69mm, 5 port alloy head, max power rpm=8000. did some measurements last night. Chamber volume=21cc, deck height=0.889mm, headgasket=66.7mmx1.6mm (uncompressed). In this configuration I can only bring compression back to around 8.8:1 (9.5:1 std), and I guess with a compressed head gasket this will be closer to 8.9:1. As I'm not ready to get into any machine work I'll take the chance and see how it goes at this compression, if I have to water inject it as well so be it. I just need to get the car running well enough for me to start on the fuel injection side of things. Although this will be a dedicated race car it would be nice to just run on 96 leaded, but if I have to mix Toluene in it and bring it up I can do that, or i can just run avgas (which according to CAMS is 106 octane in OZ). Anyway for something completely different and efi related, a thread a while ago was boosting fuel pump voltage for increased flow. Well I may have a very simple solution for those interested. Found this by pure accident. 2 weeks ago my fuel pump was very noisy and the frequency of the noise was going up and down and the car was running excessively rich (4km/litre). Anyway it turned out the alternator was pumping out 16.5V sometimes dropping back to 14V as it should. Problem turned out to be a dodgy connection where the wire for the charge light plugs on. Now it would seem that floating this connection caused the alternator to increase output voltage, so maybe a simple switch in line disconnecting this pin when you need that extra fuel pressure. Any explanation ? Dan dzorde@xxx.com Keep Me Posted. What is CID? Qty Cyl? Bore size? Alum Head? RPM at max Pwr? All and more contribute, but found 8:1 lowest practical. May need to mix race fuel 30% for over 12 psi tho. TurboDave ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:55:32 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning Stowe, Ted-SEA wrote: > > yes I just waltzed through a Snap-On truck for 10 min, $300 later... > they do have a nice set of long bottom tap things made for this purpose, > sort of a thread chaser. > > their handy magnetic light is $75, I 'd hate to ask what the vac cleaner is. > Think it's about the same. The dedicated guys just look at the monthly payments. ; ) Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:27:50 -0700 From: Vance Rose Subject: Re: 1961 Corvette TPI Conversion At 11:24 PM 5/26/1999 -0500, you wrote: >>>> Hello, I am brand new to the list so please let me know if I am outside protocol. I have scanned some of the archives and it certainly looks as though there is a wealth of information and experience in the members of this list. I have a 1961 Corvette with a 350 and a 9.5 to 1 compression ratio and race ported 76cc heads that I am converting to a 91 TPI setup. I have the stock manifold, runners, throttle body and plenum but no fuel rails. I just got a set of 305 injectors from a 86 Firebird on e-bay. I have no fuel rail. I was considering building one using some bulk fuel rail from Arizona Speed and Marine. $36.00 for 6 feet. I have no computer or harness. What is the best way to proceed from here. I certainly don't want to build a leaky fuel rail and risk burning up my car but I do enjoy doing as much as I can myself. Any suggestions or assistance would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Dan Plaskett <<<<<<<< Hi Dan The harnesses and ecm {730} can come from a v-6 car, just need to use a v-8 memcal. The wiring diagram from a 91 Camaro is at the ftp. Vance PS: i'm also in need of a fuel rail. Also have a vette fuel rail that i would like to trade for a Camaro one. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:40:03 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning My first house was red, and had the address Snap-On, and had drawers Dopey | > yes I just waltzed through a Snap-On truck for 10 min, $300 later... | > they do have a nice set of long bottom tap things made for this purpose, | > sort of a thread chaser. | > their handy magnetic light is $75, I 'd hate to ask what the vac cleaner is. | Think it's about the same. The dedicated guys just look at the | monthly payments. ; ) | Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 20:46:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Davies Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning On Thu, 27 May 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote: > > My first house was red, and had the address Snap-On, and had drawers > Dopey > And it had a mortgage... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 00:06:33 EDT From: ECMnut@xxx.com Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning I never really thought much about it till now, but there SURE IS a lot of chrome goodies on those Snap-On trucks. Must be lots of red houses with the same address out there.. MV > > My first house was red, and had the address Snap-On, and had drawers > > Dopey > > > And it had a mortgage... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:53:07 -0600 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: 94 Truck problem solved Carl, After reading the rest of the emails (700+ after my long weekend away) the fix showed up. Had a hunch it was the "mechanical" end of things...good you found the problem... Lyndon IPTECH - -----Original Message----- From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Cc: gmecm@xxx.edu> Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 9:53 PM Subject: 94 Truck problem solved >HI Everyone, > I first want to thank everyone that took the time to help diagnose >this thing. What struck me was someone who said to check the >basics.......Sometimes people like us get so involved in finding an efi >problem that we do forget the basics......my biggest problem was I did not >talk to the customer long enough,,,,,,to find out the problem started almost >a year ago but just recently became severe.......well I did find the root of >the problem during my initial scan.....when key on was applied with engine >not running and fuel pressure came up...fuel was blowing by one of the TB >injectors and after disassembly discovered bad o-ring.....replaced and no >more fuel leak.....still engine would run ok for a few seconds but would >start running rich......had already done a compression test but turned out >ok........I won't bore you guys with the details but I had to start thinking >back what I would do if this had a carburetor on it,,,,and since I had >verified fuel and spark it must be mechanical......so looked back over my >compression chart and noticed #3 was the lowest cylinder so I checked it >again and now was even lower, so checked the one next to it to verify it >wasn't lower due to temp,,,,,no it was the same so re-checked the #3 in case >I just hadn't cranked it enough times......guess what now it's 0 >pressure......now can assume broken valve spring or sticking valve.....remove >valve cover and check....no broken valve spring but intake valve is stuck >down.....remove rockers and tap top of valve with hammer and... "pling"... >valve comes up......solution, leaking injector, over a period of a year, has >built up excessive carbon on top of intake valves and is now causing them to >stick open randomly.......so anyway,,,those that want can sit back and point >at the screen and laugh.....I am.......it was actually a good road trip >looking back on it......cya later >-Carl Summers > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 21:49:26 -0600 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: Clues Needed Using your trigger mode to "synch" is good for checking cam/crank sensors and calculating timing chain stretch from the offset in the signal. Check the Fluke website for some easy, simple explanations and check out Jorge Menchu's website--search out "AESwave"--he's got some presets software for the Fluke Scopemeters. (Free stuff) Really makes the FLuke 97a user friendly for those less experienced. Lyndon IPTECH - -----Original Message----- From: Ord Millar To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, May 21, 1999 10:15 AM Subject: Re: Clues Needed >+/- internal - usually means triggers off the 50 or 60hz ac supply, either >on the rising or falling zero volt cross. (could mean that the trigger is >extracted from the signal input in some cases) >+/- external - triggers off the the sense lead, either on the rising or >falling edge. There should be a setting for level - whenever the input >voltages cross this level the scope makes a trace. >Auto - just triggers as soon as one h-sweep is finished. >When using a seperate trigger, hook it to something that's in sync with what >you want to measure - think of it like a timing light. > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bruce Plecan >To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> >Date: Friday, May 21, 1999 11:05 AM >Subject: Clues Needed > > >>Being new to the scope world, and after reading a scope manual, I'm still >at >>a lose, and hope someone could clear these meanings up for me. >> When using the triggering mode selection there are these options. >>Auto >>+ Internal >>- Internal >>+External >>-External >>Auto-seems to mean that the pulses are displayed as they occur, and the >>trigger >> sense lead need not be connected. >>ALSO, for these 4 other options where would one hook the sense lead to. >>Any help here appreciated. >>Bruce >> Happy used to, really chase the skirts. >> But, having visited Scotland last weekend, has left him confused...... >> >> > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:09:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Davies Subject: Re: v8 block thread cleaning On Fri, 28 May 1999 ECMnut@xxx.com wrote: > I never really thought much about it till now, but there > SURE IS a lot of chrome goodies on those Snap-On trucks. > Must be lots of red houses with the same address out there.. > MV > > > > My first house was red, and had the address Snap-On, and had drawers > > > Dopey > > > > > And it had a mortgage... > If you watch Biznews at all, you will see the SnapOn has bought many companies, small and large, and is set to buy even more. I assume the money is coming from one mechanic at a time... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 01:16:25 -0400 From: "Rudi Machilek" Subject: RE: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps I used to run an E-sports 850. 850's were notorious for burning the center main and #3 rod. That and a lack of an oil filter (OK the centrifugal inside the crank pulley did sort-of work) made for one weak bottom end. There was an external oiling mod that took oil from the head and flowed through a hose to a fitting and hole drilled trough the side of the block into the oil galley above the center main. Someone with Abarth experience might be able to tell you the exact point. The heads will likely need to be o-ringed. Running 11.5:1 we blew head gaskets regularly. We modified one head to accept 4 Mikuni carbs. With 14 cm or so stacks and tuned exhaust, it ran quite nicely. Adding injectors to the Mikunis would be great. You could also add injectors into the log manifold directly above the intakes. The original head with the center mounted Weber did not flow well (or evenly) at all. The #4 cylinder ran extremely lean. With injectors mounted directly to the head, I am nor sure how you could even that out. Oil provides a great deal of cooling in that engine. Abarth had a mode for an external oil filter and oil cooling. A must for HO operation. The 843cc engines had a finned cast aluminum oil pan that cooled better than the later stamped steel pan. Enough rambling, good luck with your project. Rudi Machilek 90 Camaro TBI 93 T-bird TPI 86 Suburban, project conversion to TBI Original Message Dave, its a Fiat 903cc, 4cyl, bore/stroke=65.6mmx69mm, 5 port alloy head, max power rpm=8000. did some measurements last night. Chamber volume=21cc, deck height=0.889mm, headgasket=66.7mmx1.6mm (uncompressed). In this configuration I can only bring compression back to around 8.8:1 (9.5:1 std), and I guess with a compressed head gasket this will be closer to 8.9:1. As I'm not ready to get into any machine work I'll take the chance and see how it goes at this compression, if I have to water inject it as well so be it. I just need to get the car running well enough for me to start on the fuel injection side of things. Although this will be a dedicated race car it would be nice to just run on 96 leaded, but if I have to mix Toluene in it and bring it up I can do that, or i can just run avgas (which according to CAMS is 106 octane in OZ). ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 01:39:29 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Diesel Mods Anyone here familiar with the 99 Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel? Looking to see what stock boost is and what a safe "modified" boost level would be, along with any other mods for it. Thanks, Dave =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 22:49:02 -0700 From: Ross Corrigan Subject: NC: 2.9X posi IRS pumpking donor/halfshaft q? I know this is NC but I'm just amazed at some feedback/backgrounds members can relate back so here goes. (plus I know theirs several owners of possible donors on these lists) A fella from Detroit called me up this eve. on a net tip from a friend that I'd checked out swapping a 'vette posi into a Datsun Z car. Neat to hear his name when he intro'd as I knew it immediately as a fella that had a gorgeous older Z in Hotrod a year ago April or May as an import w/ domestic muscle feature. Anyhow, we were trying to figure out how one could fabricate 'telescoping' halfshaft for such a swap (he thought I'd solved this but it hadn't even occurred to me yet). Vette's (I'm not v. familiar w/ their setup) have fixed length halfshafts and our Z's all have compressible telescoping halfshafts and he hasn't been able to find a shop that has a clue on fabricating anything similar. Anyone w/ ideers on this one? He also mentioned that a Viper rear end looked a lot easier to transplant d/2 it's OEM dimensions ('vette unit needs narrowing etc he said) but he only found one locally available for big bucks. I've got nil exposure to other makes etc but thought some BMW's or Mercedes (or any other) might have feasible donor diff's for this swap as well?? Basically he's looking for an ~8.25" or larger ring gear posi pumpkin w/ low ratios (~3 or even less). He said the viper ratio is 3.07, no ideer if other ratios were available? Dana 60 'vette units only go down to 3.07 and he's at 3.15 know so that's not much gain for him but he's still interested in that step if it's all that's available. So any ideas/thoughts at all on the halfshaft fabrication (other donor telescoping parts? our Z ones are too weak for him), other donor diffs w/ any ratios, and lastly any sources for the viper rear's or others suggested w/ any ~ costs would be great. He's not on the 'net so I want to accumulate what I can before phoning back etc. PS he runs high 10's in the 1/4 in street trim w/ A/C and a fully insulated booming slick car that weighs in at 2600lbs wet w/ no driver that also sees track roadracing several times a year. A seriously cool ride I hope to see in person some day. Just trying to spread the fun . Ross Corrigan / Vancouver, Canada '80 327ZX IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the straights mailto:zxv@xxx.ca *New ICQ # 11549358 http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg where a Z belongs ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #313 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".