DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, June 1 1999 Volume 04 : Number 324 In this issue: [none] Re: PIC Programmer Re: Prowler V6 Re: 1227749 Adaptation Re: 22RE wiring Help on op-amp (?) circuit Re: 1227749 Adaptation Re: Prowler V6 Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: To Todd Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps Re: Prowler V6 Re: mopar block weights Re: EFI construction plans for ECU7 Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: Prowler V6 Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit Re: To Todd Re: g meter Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 06:10:09 -0400 From: jsg@xxx.edu Subject: [none] Subject: [admin] List services (automated monthly post) This message is post monthly as a reminder of the available list services. For help: Send "help" to Majordomo@xxx. To post: Send to "[list name]@xxx.edu" To subscribe: Send to Majordomo@xxx.edu subscribe [list name] [your email address *only* if different than your "From" address] To unsubscribe: Send to Majordomo@xxx.edu unsubscribe [list name] [your *registered* email address if different than your "From" address] The archive to each mailing list is available through the following sources: 1) WWW. http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ 2) ftp. ftp://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ 3) Majordomo. Send "index [list name]" to Majordomo@xxx. You will find a file "archive_date_index" whose contents show the period covered by each of the archive files "archive_num_*". Digest mode is available for each mailing list. Send "lists" to Majordomo for a listing a mailing lists served. To switch to the digest mode, unsubscribe from the regular list and then subscribe to the digest version (i.e., diy_efi-digest). WWW site (for diy_efi and efi332): http://efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu/ now mirrored at http://tech.buffalostate.edu/efi Please send information to be added to this posting to jsg@xxx. John ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 20:16:14 +1000 From: Peter Gargano Subject: Re: PIC Programmer My 2 cents worth on the PIC... Simon Quested wrote: > A$25 for a starter kit... > Is this the sort of thing that is good for a complete beginner in PICs? > (like me) I think that it's very good value, BUT, you have to ask yourself why you're going to use a PIC. These devices are great for performing many small logic functions - and the Scenix devices (fast PIC clones) seem to be fast enough to even replace existing hardware devices (perhaps even a slow CPU). The biggest drawback is that the PIC has only small amounts of program memory. This is built into the architecture and means that larger projects are much harder to program because you have to worry about things like your code crossing a page boundary, etc. Traditional microprocessor architectures like the 68HC11, 68332, etc. can access lots of program memory and are not limited in the same way a PIC is. On the other hand, to do anything with one of these "bigger" chips, you have to write a lot of code just to get the CPU to power up its internal circuitry and talk to the outside world. You may have heard about the Basic Stamp (and like clones) that can be programmed in BASIC (or even C). These devices use a PIC chip, but they read an external program (usually stored in a serial EEPROM). For each high level instruction it interprets, the PIC has to read the EEPROM, decode what is required, then do it. This slows the PIC down by orders of magnitude compared to running from its "native" mode, and compared to an a "traditional" microprocessor. In general a Basic Stamp (or similar) is NOT suitable for an EFI project. On the other hand, a simple ignition controller is quite do-able (Jaycar also have a PIC ignition controller kit!). I have to be honest and say that if you want to get into programming micros then one of the best things to do is get something like an Apple II or C64, etc. People are throwing them out and you can get them for nothing (perhaps someone will pay you to take one away!). Get a book about programming, spend some time getting to know how to program your CPU, and then, if you're still motivated, AND you really have something you want to program, team up with one of the current EFI332 projects and you'll be in a position to understand what's happening. If you do get say an Apple, what you'll learn may not be about the same micro that's in a particular ECU (although the 6502 is not unlike the 6800 which is the basis for the 68HC11 which is used in many GM ECUs) but it will give you a basis for understanding how the microprocessor in the ECU works - that has to be good for something! regards, - -- Peter Gargano ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:00:49 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 The Z-28 has a 10,000 rpm engine? The old 302s were redlined at 6000. The highest redline pushrod Chevy I know is the old 327/365 and 327/375 which had 6200 rpm redlines. It is pretty tough to get a pushrod valvetrain to work at 10,000 rpm and certainly not with factory parts. Gary Derian > > > The ZZ3 and ZZ4 have cast cranks. The ZZZ, ZZ1 and ZZ2 are forged. I > >have a new ZZZ if anyone is interested. > > > > 1969 was the first year for 4 bolt Chevy SB. Z-28 and LT-1 only. L82 > >later also. I have never heard of a 10,000 rpm stock Chevy. > You just mentioned it. Starts with a Z. > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:50:22 -0400 From: Bill Shaw Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation Hi Scott, Keep us posted on your progress. I'm REAL interested in your project as I may take a similar route with mine. I may not be much with the 749 yet, but I do know a bit about Spiders, so yell if you need help. Do you intend to replace the air-impeding air-door AFM? I'm told something from a 2L Saab may be a suitable replacement. Can you get the AFM from the car you got the 749 from? Set up the ignition? Are you swapping the GM distributor in also? Does the 749 require this swap? I think the 2L electronic distributor and module should be fine. The stock Fiat ignition module is a GM HE4. I found this in the digest, I've been saving it for my conversion: Check any GM A car for aftermarket cruise control. Generator (VSS) is located in the speedo cable splice in the center of the engine compartment along the firewall. Many 80's A cars have it. Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000. - ------------------------------------------------------------ Bill Shaw '78 FI Spider (Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html - ------------------------------------------------------------ >Hello, I am about to adapt a 1227749 ecm to a Fiat Spider and I had a few >concerns to ask. One is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, can I do without it, do I >need to just tell the ecu it is not there, I noticed in Programmer98 there >is a function to turn it off, is that all I need to do? Also, should I set >up the ignition of the fuel injection first? Which one would be considered >more stand alone? One more question, would I be praying too much for the >car to at least idle and halfway run on a stock rom file? They are both >2.0L, Overhead cam. Or, am I just asking for too much? Thanks, I have >been a member of this list just reading for a while and I have finally built >up the courage to go and do this. Thanks, for all of the input. > > > -Scott Flanagan ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:14:16 -0400 From: "Clare Snyder" Subject: Re: 22RE wiring - ----- Original Message ----- From: Aaron Willis To: Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 12:29 AM Subject: Re: 22RE wiring > At 11:09 PM 5/31/99 -0400, you wrote: > >I am new to the world of FI and am totally mesmerized by the endless > >possibilities... > >I am swapping a complete 94 22RE for my worn out 22R.. > >I am needing information on the wiring... > >Any and ALL information and links would be greatly appreciated > > > >thanks msapp@xxx.edu > > > > > > > Grab all that stock 22RE wiring loom you can. I think (Helene, can you > confirm this?) that Toyota L-jet, if a '94 is still L-jet, is pretty much > self-contained...if so, I reckon you could plug it all in without too much > trouble, just hooking it into the vehicle harness for power and ground... > The Toyota vehicles, particularly the Hilux, had a "universal" wiring harness - the standard truck got the 22r, the SR5 got the 22RE, and there was also a deisel and turbo diesel option. Chassis wiring was basically the same throughout. Get the entire engine harness, right back through the firewall, and EVERY part connected to it. The engine compartment fuse/relay panel is modified with the efi system, so grab it too. From memory - was Toyota service tech and service manager 'till about 10 years ago. > > > Aaron Willis > ICQ #27386985 > AOL IM: hemiyota > http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:33:31 +0200 From: "Gustaf Ulander" Subject: Help on op-amp (?) circuit Hi folks I need some help on a somewhat trivial (?) circuit. I want to use the throttle position sensor (TPS) on my Ford Sierra (Bosch L-jetronic/Motronic) throttle body to activate a relay switch (12 volts) on my turbo setup. I also want to be able to adjust the point where the switch activates. I think I could do away with a LM 324 or LM 328, but I'm not sure, and I also would need some hints on how to design the complete circuit. Hope someone can help me out here. Regards Gustaf _______________________________________ Gustaf Ulander Quality and Environmental affairs Berco Produktion AB, Skelleftea, Sweden phone +46 (0)910-77 51 00 telefax +46 (0)910-854 93 Personal homepage; http://www.look.at/Ford_Capri ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 11:48:31 -0400 From: "Scott Flanagan" Subject: Re: 1227749 Adaptation If I am succesful I will probably be putting up an article on www.mirafiori.com The '49 is a MAP sensor so I don't have to worry about a AFM, but the ignition on th 49 is driven by a crank wheel and the whole reason I intend to do all of this is for turbo. My father's spider has turbo, but I am going to add a cam and do some additional head work, along with lower compression so I figured to get the most out of it I need a reprogramable set up. I figured it would be wise to start on a stock motor so I don't melt a piston or anything on a good motor. -Scott Flanagan '80 Fiat Spider > Hi Scott, > > Keep us posted on your progress. I'm REAL interested in your project as I > may take a similar route with mine. I may not be much with the 749 yet, > but I do know a bit about Spiders, so yell if you need help. > > Do you intend to replace the air-impeding air-door AFM? I'm told something > from a 2L Saab may be a suitable replacement. Can you get the AFM from the > car you got the 749 from? > > Set up the ignition? Are you swapping the GM distributor in also? Does > the 749 require this swap? I think the 2L electronic distributor and module > should be fine. The stock Fiat ignition module is a GM HE4. > > I found this in the digest, I've been saving it for my conversion: > > Check any GM A car for aftermarket cruise control. Generator (VSS) is > located in > the speedo cable splice in the center of the engine compartment along the > firewall. Many 80's A cars have it. Ciera, Century, Celebrity, 6000. > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > Bill Shaw > '78 FI Spider > (Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line > http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > > >Hello, I am about to adapt a 1227749 ecm to a Fiat Spider and I had a few > >concerns to ask. One is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, can I do without it, do I > >need to just tell the ecu it is not there, I noticed in Programmer98 there > >is a function to turn it off, is that all I need to do? Also, should I set > >up the ignition of the fuel injection first? Which one would be considered > >more stand alone? One more question, would I be praying too much for the > >car to at least idle and halfway run on a stock rom file? They are both > >2.0L, Overhead cam. Or, am I just asking for too much? Thanks, I have > >been a member of this list just reading for a while and I have finally built > >up the courage to go and do this. Thanks, for all of the input. > > > > > > -Scott Flanagan > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:11:32 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 HAHA, good n Jim... I'll try n find that 'special' magnet man! Todd.... - --------- Jim Davies wrote: > > On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote: > > > Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons? or do most of ya'll only > > run CAST iron pistons? > > > > Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this.... > > > > I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of > > em! > > > > Anyone know why? > > > You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:13:08 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) I hear that William, And you are correct as far as the way it works where the money borrowed is collateralized by CASH in their bank! Will let ya know if it works out good or bad or null... LATER! Todd.... - -------- William T Wilson wrote: > > On Fri, 28 May 1999, David A. Cooley wrote: > > > >So, what's Check Kiting? > > > > That's where you write a check, buy something get cash back, deposit the > > cash in the bank, write another check etc... basically trying to write > > checks and deposit the money to stay ahead of all the checks because there > > The difference is that with check kiting, if they catch you, you will end > up without enough money to cover it all. > > In this little credit-building scheme, even if you stop making payments > altogether, nobody is out any money because you put the money up in the > first place. > > > of the loan and puts you in default. the money has to stay there > > until the loan is paid off. > > It does, because you are using the money you borrowed from bank A as the > collateral for bank B. No particular dollar actually gets used twice. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:18:11 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Thanks for the info Michael, Will look into it... However, all the tickin began at a red light all the sudden,(within about 5 seconds or so) scared the heck outa me, this car's worth about $3,500-$4,000 and I'd like to sell it and out the money in the bank vs. leave it in the backyard to rust... May try thicker oil, but I doubt seriosuly that will help much, if any at all... Thanks again for the advice/experience... LATER! Todd.... - ----------- Stegbauer, Michael wrote: > > Todd, > > I'm assuming the bank runs a credit report and can see that you are > getting a large number of small loans in a short amount of time. > Even if they didn't notice that this looks alot like check kiting > (not exactly the same thing), it would be really suspicious and > they'd be pretty foolish to give a loan like that. > > I did get the impression from you original message that you were > asking for more money with each loan, so maybe I've misunderstood > something there. They might do it for a loan equal to the amount > of cash but at some point you'd be asking for more money, right? > (I don't remember the details of stage 2). Sooner or later I bet > they'll start denying you on the number of credit inquiries alone. > > Good luck though! The cause is just. ;-) > > Anyway, have you tried heavier oil for your lifters? Whenever > I showed up for an event, all the other DSMers would come over > and tell me that I had the worst lifter tick they'd ever heard. > Mobil 1 made it worse, but then I switched to the Valvoline > Syntec(?) (full Synthetic) 5W-30 and the noise went away. > I had to get it at PepBoys to start, but Walmart sells it now. > I switch to the lighter stuff for winter and had a little > tick occasionally at startup, but nothing to even think about. > > The lifters usually aren't a major problem anyway, though some > people think they can trigger the knock sensor. It sounds like > your compression is way low. The archives (search.dsm.org) > suggest that most turbos read around 150. > > Cheers, > Mike > 92 AWD Laser > > -----Original Message----- > From: Todd....!! [mailto:atc347@xxx.net] > Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 11:14 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) > > Hello Michael, > > Stupid meaning what? > > Do you believe that a bank giving a 'loan' to someone who puts the exact > same amount as the loan in a savings account at that bank for collateral > as bing STUPID? > > They have NO risk whatsoever on that loan, plus they get the interest > from the loan when all is said and done... > > That' sounds like a no risk type of loan to me as far as the bank's > concerned.... > > I may not have conveyed the theory well.... > > ANY bank will give a loan for cash as long as you give them that same > amount of cash in an account.... > > I'll let ya know how it goes.... > > The banker may ask why you would even want a loan if you already have > the money, all ya have to tell em is that you have a hard time saving > money, and that if it were in the form of a loan that you would have > more of a reason to save the money, or somethin like that... > > Simple... > > Easy... > > Works... > > Purpose is to build repore and confidence with the lender... > > LATER! > > Todd.... > > ----------- > > Stegbauer, Michael wrote: > > > > > Will be goin out and gettin loans using this $3,000 as my collateral in > > > several banks in series, i.e. deposit the $3000 in one bank, get a loan > > > using it as collateral, take the loan money from the first bank, deposit > > > it into another bank, get a loan on that money etc.... > > > > > > Then mak 2 or 3 payments on each 'loan' over a 6 week period using the > > > $3,000 'loan' money for payment money, then go back within about 6 weeks > > > or so and pay all of em off, then ask for a signature loan from each > > > bank for about the same amount...(signature meaning NO COLLATERAL!) and > > > do the same thing with that signature loan money... This will build > > > credit with the bank(s) as well as a relationship with em... > > > > Wow! I'm looking into buying some land. If the loan officers in > > Houston are this stupid, maybe I should get a loan there. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:21:04 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Makes sense to me.... Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less thermal stress on the engine than the alternative... In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the initial lag.... Cool? LATER! Todd....!! soren wrote: > > --- > >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any > >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler? > > > >Anyone? > > Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of > automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi, > Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock > intercooler. And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those > particular models didn't require them. I suppose that the masses who are > used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost, > low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake > piping instead of 6 ft. > > Soren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:35:14 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: To Todd Thanks for the notice Fred!, Just got back from WACO last night, haven't browsed all weekend, had 300+ e-mails this morn! Am dredgin thru em now! Have already pulled up the truck site! Perty cool, GREAT pics! LATER! Todd....!! Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > Just rebooted... server's up. > > Happy surfing. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:37:18 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps Good to know CL! Thanks for the info! LATER! Todd.... - -------- CLsnyder wrote: > > LL100 has over twice the maximum amount of lead ever used in automotive pump > gas. No problem with burning valves from lack of lead, but quite possibly a > problem with sticking valves due to lead deposit buildup on stems. Common > problem on some air-cooled aviation engines designed for the older avgas. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Todd....!! > To: > Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 5:03 PM > Subject: Re: O/T Compression ratio and supercharging, also efi pumps > > > Hi David, > > > > Thanks for the info... > > > > However, as far as the lead content, buds said that the AVGas was kinda > > 'dry' and that I shouldn't run the AVGas too long so as to not burn the > > valves up... > > > > But if you read your source on the net, then it must be true, ey? lol > > > > LATER! > > > > Todd....!! > > http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm > > > > > > David A. Cooley wrote: > > > > > > At 09:55 AM 5/28/99 -0700, you wrote: > > > >FYI - I ran AVgas(Aviation fuel) right from outa the airplane fueler > > > >tanker (They DIDN'T USE THE GROUND STRAP FROM THE TANKER TO THE CAR, > but > > > >DID on all the planes, that coulda hurt!) into my 73 Camaro with a 383 > > > >stroker, closed chambered small valve heads(1.94), Edelbrock tunnelram > > > >w/ dual 600 vac holleys, 4-speed, and 3.73 limited slip 10-bolt rear... > > > >was at about 10.5:1 compression... first 5 gallons in the new motor > were > > > >AVGAS, as were the next few tanks.... kinda expensive... started mixin > > > >super and avgas, then went to straight superunleaded(93 octane)... > > > > > > > >Everyone told me it was only 100 octane, the exhaust smelled like race > > > >gas to me.... > > > > > > They don't rate AV gas octane the same as regular gas... 100LL av gas is > > > about 105-110 octane in automotive terms... It also has MORE lead (even > > > though it says low lead) than any automotive leaded fuel (Almost twice > the > > > amount) > > > Check out the Gasoline FAQ on the net... Pretty good info there. > > > =========================================================== > > > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > > > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > > > Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they > didn't?! > > > =========================================================== > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:39:56 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not? Just checkin.... LATER! Todd.... C. Brooks wrote: > > You're TOO cruel, SnapOn doesn't carry metric magnets... But Craftsman does > :) > > Charles Brooks > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Davies > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Friday, May 28, 1999 7:37 PM > Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > > > > > > >On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote: > > > >> Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons? or do most of ya'll only > >> run CAST iron pistons? > >> > >> Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from this.... > >> > >> I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a magnet won't stick to ANY of > >> em! > >> > >> Anyone know why? > >> > >You have to use a special magnet for these. Try SnapOn... > > > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 10:14:21 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: mopar block weights Thanks for the numbers Charles! If I get a chance to weigh thst crank, will post numbers! Later! Todd.... Charles wrote: > > On Fri, 28 May 1999 22:29:43 -0400, you wrote: > > >I WILL find out the diff 'tween a 383/400 and 440 block I have an apart > >383 short block at gramps, am about to go up their this weekend, may > >have to weigh the sucker! How much ya think, just for the block alone? > > According to my MP books the 440 block with caps weighs > 225 lbs. > Don't remember the figure for 383/400 but it's probably > not a whole lot less... > > If you want a surprise weigh a 440 steel crank sometime > ;) > -Charles ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:07:13 -0700 From: "Bob Huish" Subject: Re: EFI construction plans for ECU7 > > At 09:19 AM 5/31/99 +1000, you wrote: > > >< If anyone is interested in being part of a group > > >> parts order, let me know. So, check out: > > > > > >Count me in. > > do you have a ball park figure on cost?? I'm very interested > Add me to the list too...thanks Bob Cuda-65 - Angels Camp, Calif. cudabob@xxx.net http://www.goldrush.com/~rhuish/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:19:36 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? > Makes sense to me.... > > Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less > thermal stress on the engine than the alternative... > > In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to > power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the > initial lag.... Or a small shot of Nitrous to get the Turbo spinning! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:18:53 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to > tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not? Not just any metric magnet... A Left handed Unobtanium/niobium alloy metric magnet. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:48:00 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Help on op-amp (?) circuit > I think I could do away with a LM 324 or LM 328, but I'm not sure, and I > also would need some hints on how to design the complete circuit. I've used the LM324 before, and its pretty common. The LM324 is also "reasonably" stable. I'm not sure if you have access to a Radio Shack in Sweden, however that particular chain store has books that can help you out. basically, you want to run the input of the TPS sensor into the op-amp on the + input, and connect the - input to a variable resistor taht's connected to ground and Vcc (supply voltage on your circuit), which you would use to adjust the cut-in/cut-out threshold. If you can't find the book, let me know, I might have a simple circuit diagram that would give you the basics, using the LM324, and you can go from there. I have the book actually sitting on my dressor at the moment, so its not buried deep, deep in the dungeon (basement) - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:35:37 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: To Todd > Have already pulled up the truck site! Perty cool, GREAT pics! Wait until I add the backyard paint job :) Just have a little sanding to do, and some minor surface fixing before I show pictures. Don't want to display anything terribly embarrasing :) - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:37:15 -0700 (PDT) From: Orin Eman Subject: Re: g meter > At 07:16 PM 5/30/99 +0000, xxalexx@xxx.com wrote: > >Circuit Cellar Inc. #107 june 99 has good article on the > >ADXL202 +-2 g accellerometer with 0.001 g resolution > I meant to mention, but forgot to, that I went to an Analog Dev > seminar and they let slip that their next generation low-G sensor > (out soonish) will have a noise equivalent voltage less than half > of the xl202 and their other first-generation parts. (I can dig up > the part # if anyone really needs it.) I asked the fellow Yes, please do. I was very disappointed with the noise of the ADXL05 and the 202 didn't seem any better. Orin. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:49:05 -0400 From: Ken Kelly Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Turbo lag isn't a problem with the automatic only if life consists of a series of quarter mile dashes. Try a road course, or street driving, and you won't ignore turbo lag. Ken "Todd....!!" wrote: > > Makes sense to me.... > > Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less > thermal stress on the engine than the alternative... > > In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to > power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the > initial lag.... > > Cool? > > LATER! > > Todd....!! > > soren wrote: > > > > --- > > >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any > > >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler? > > > > > >Anyone? > > > > Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of > > automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi, > > Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock > > intercooler. And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those > > particular models didn't require them. I suppose that the masses who are > > used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost, > > low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake > > piping instead of 6 ft. > > > > Soren ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:42:06 est From: "Charles Brooks" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench ;) Charles Brooks - ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Todd....!!" Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:39:56 -0700 >So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not? Just checkin.... LATER! Todd.... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:55:04 EDT From: A70Duster@xxx.com Subject: Re: Prowler V6 In a message dated 6/1/1999 12:47:11 PM Mountain Daylight Time, cbrooks1@xxx.net writes: << metric crescent wrench >> Hey, I have both the 6" and 150mm crescent wrench, so back off! :) See ya, Mike ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 15:19:32 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to >the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench ;) metric? What's that? you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit? - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:10:11 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Lag IS important even when drag racing with an automatic. As the engine revs faster in the lower gears, the turbo will be a bit behind and you will get less boost in the lower gears. This might be OK but you can't just ignore lag. Gary Derian > Makes sense to me.... > > Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less > thermal stress on the engine than the alternative... > > In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to > power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the > initial lag.... > > Cool? > > LATER! > > Todd....!! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:22:41 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Well, I'm already left handed, so all I need now is to obtain some a that Unobtainium and niobium so I can mix em together and make some of that good ol alloy to use for the magnet! COOL! Wasn't 100% PURE Unobtanium used in ALL 7747's from 79 up? LATER! Todd.... - --------- David A. Cooley wrote: > > > So, if I understand correctly we'll need a metric magnet in order to > > tell whether our pistons are aluminum or not? > > Not just any metric magnet... A Left handed Unobtanium/niobium alloy metric > magnet. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:56:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Squash Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Old hit-n-miss engines had cast iron pistons. Andy - --- Shannen Durphey wrote: > Thomas McCabe wrote: > > > > Jim Davies wrote: > > > > > > On Fri, 28 May 1999, Todd....!! wrote: > > > > > > > Anybody in here ever ran FORGED steel pistons? > or do most of ya'll only > > > > run CAST iron pistons? > > > > > > > > Just wonderin what kinda answers I'll get from > this.... > > > > > > > > I run forged hypereutectic myself, but a > magnet won't stick to ANY of > > > > em! > > > > > > > > Anyone know why? > > > > > > > You have to use a special magnet for these. Try > SnapOn... > > > > OK, Most pistons are ALUMINUM, forged or cast. > I've personally never > > seen a STEEL piston. > > > > My .02 > > > > L8r > > -- > You haven't looked at an old enough engine. When > advancing the spark > meant moving the lever, and "Crank 'er up!" meant > getting out with the > Z shaped handle, there were ferrous pistons. > Shannen > > Thomas McCabe > > -mccabet@xxx.net > > '85 D250, 340 on Propane, Auto > > '89 Lebaron GTC, 2.2L Turbo II, A-555 5 Speed, > MPSBEC > > '91 Spirit R/T, 2.2L DOHC 16 Valve T3, A568 5 > Speed, Anti-lock Brakes, > > Power Windows, Locks, Drivers Seat. > > '96 Dakota SLT Club Cab, Brilliant Blue, 5.2L, > Auto, 3.55 SG, > > Gibson Cat-Back Exhaust, ARE A-234 15x7 rims > w/ Dunlop GT Qualifiers > > 255R60-15, Molded running boards and flares, > Lund bug shield, Cool > > Fronts, Ventvisors, and Extang Saber Tonnue > cover. > > _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @xxx.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:56:59 -0700 From: Aaron Willis Subject: Re: Prowler V6 At 08:00 AM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote: >The Z-28 has a 10,000 rpm engine? The old 302s were redlined at 6000. The >highest redline pushrod Chevy I know is the old 327/365 and 327/375 which >had 6200 rpm redlines. It is pretty tough to get a pushrod valvetrain to >work at 10,000 rpm and certainly not with factory parts. > >Gary Derian Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > > Wasn't 100% PURE Unobtanium used in ALL 7747's from 79 up? I think so... That's why they were so expensive... GM used all the unobtanium in them.... ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:07:50 -0700 From: Aaron Willis Subject: Re: Prowler V6 At 03:19 PM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote: > >metric? What's that? you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a >large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit? > > > >-- > >Frederic Breitwieser >Bridgeport CT 06606 Keep laughing, Fred...not long ago I encountered a VERY stubborn flywheel bolt with a metric head. It absolutely would not come off, and started to round itself...a little work with a dremel and an appropriately sized SAE socket, plus the aforementioned hammer (or "fine-tuning adjuster" as my brother calls them) got it locked on but good! Eventually it did come off. Have yet to retrieve the bolt from the socket...but it's a small price to pay for getting the job done!! Aaron Willis ICQ #27386985 AOL IM: hemiyota http://surf.to/garage-te51 Garage TE51 International ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:48:29 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? I've seen that in REAL LIFE! Anyone ever watch a Grand National(GN) try and run any sort of a tight road coarse.... By the time the boost kicks in after floorin it whilst coming out of a turn, the next turn is at hand!, a LOT of noise n smoke, but a puny lil Mig-yata and/or MG beats the powerful beast in the course! I thought all GN's were posi's, this one musta been a limited slip or somethin... LATER!, Todd.... - ------ Ken Kelly wrote: > > Turbo lag isn't a problem with the automatic only if life > consists of a series of quarter mile dashes. Try a road > course, or street driving, and you won't ignore turbo lag. > > Ken > > "Todd....!!" wrote: > > > > Makes sense to me.... > > > > Personally, I'd rather have the 'lag' and more power as well as less > > thermal stress on the engine than the alternative... > > > > In dragracing, if runnin an automatic, turbo lag is not an issue, due to > > power braking prior to launching at the startin line gettin rid of the > > initial lag.... > > > > Cool? > > > > LATER! > > > > Todd....!! > > > > soren wrote: > > > > > > --- > > > >Matter of fact, I wonder if ANY big car manufacturer even offers any > > > >cars which are turbo equipped without an intercooler? > > > > > > > >Anyone? > > > > > > Probably not right now, but recently (recent in the timeline of > > > automotive technology, I think mostly the 1980s) Chrysler, Mitsubishi, > > > Subaru, Buick, are the ones I have personally seen that have no stock > > > intercooler. And they did know about intercoolers then, evidently those > > > particular models didn't require them. I suppose that the masses who are > > > used to naturally aspirated performance might rather have a low-boost, > > > low-lag system where the turbo pushes air through about one foot of intake > > > piping instead of 6 ft. > > > > > > Soren ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #324 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".