DIY_EFI Digest Thursday, June 3 1999 Volume 04 : Number 331 In this issue: Re: OBD2 problems Re: Knock sensors Re: OBD2 problems Re: OBD2 solutions Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Re: To Todd Re: To Todd Re: OBD2 problems Hard on Engines RE: SUN Scope Re: Prowler V6 Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) Re: Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 Re: 10000rpm V8s Re: Prowler V6 Re: 10000rpm V8s Re: Knocker sensors Re: Prowler V6 Re: Best Chevy EFI engine..Supercharge the one You Have Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Re: Knocker sensors Re: TBI for a 3.4 V-6 crate Motor Re: Prowler V6 Re: Knocker sensors Re: Diff types Re: Knock sensors Re: Knock sensors Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: To Todd See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 06:49:48 -0400 (EDT) From: William T Wilson Subject: Re: OBD2 problems On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > There is a web site that has stories from a person/company that was > working to make 500 hp emission legal Vettes. I'm not sure of the Are you thinking about Chuck Mallett? I think it's mallettcars.com or mallett.com or mallettracing.com or something like that. Those are real nice cars - guaranteed 435HP, with blower will go as high as you want. They basically rebuild the engine from scratch - new just about everything. Probably has a forged crank, too :} ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 06:50:54 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Knock sensors At 09:49 PM 6/2/99 -0800, you wrote: > >My gear drive Ford 2.8 (EEC-IV w/ carb) uses a knock sensor. It also >has solid (click, click, click) lifters. The knock sensor is screwed >into a standoff that screws into the side skirt of the block. I'm not >sure if the standoff is for noise isolation or to adapt between SAE >threads on the KS and metric in the block. BTW, the standoff is, um, >press together. Ludis, Is the 2.8 pumped up any? My brother had a 74 ford Mustang II with the 2.8 and a 4 speed... Pretty doggy stock. He put on an offenhouser manifold with the 4 bbl top, an Isky torquer cam, 10:1 pistons, ported and polished heads with larger valves, headers, and a holly 390 race only mechanical secondary carb. The thing would wind to 8000RPM with no problem and would beat most any stock to mildly modified V8. =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 06:51:33 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: OBD2 problems At 01:01 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote: >There is a web site that has stories from a person/company that was >working to make 500 hp emission legal Vettes. I'm not sure of the >years, and I can't quite remember the name of the man, but the web >page gives a good sense of what it takes to make this work. This >company was associated with race cars at one time, and maybe >suspension parts or work. It isn't Ligenfelter or Calloway. Anyone >have any suggestions? Hennesey motorsports? =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 06:56:19 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: OBD2 solutions At 01:37 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote: > > Thanks all for your inputs. > > >I dont thing the stock > >ECM runs into limits, rather the sides of the injectors required to > >fuel things make the idle bad. > > This is good. I didn't know that larger injectors made potentially rough > idles. Its stuff like this that I need to know. > They don't if you set the injector constant in the PCM properly, and haven't gone to an injector so big that the minimum pulse width of the PCM is rich-rich for the idle > > >idled beautifully... BLM at 128 and INT bouncing between 127 and 129. > >WOT was very pleasant as well with the injectors only about 60% duty cycle. > > Ummm.... BLM? INT? Big Loud Motor? Impressive New Trailer? BLM is long term fuel correction... closer to 128, the closer to "perfect" the fuel delivery is( in the ECM's terms)... higher than 128 indicates a constantly lean mixture that is being compensated for, lower than 128 is a constant rich mixture that is being compensated for. INT is the integrator or short term fuel correction. (It's values make the BLM change to try to keep INT at or near 128) =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:16:33 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Previously, you (Todd....!!) wrote: > Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the > middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE? never tried ( the landrover is not a good drag strip machine) > > Just how strong is this unit? I've sheared off driveshafts, half shafts, never had a problem with the diff > > AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage > with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on? that one of the huge advantages, its a fully open dif until you lock it, then it works like a spool. there is NO slip the axle is locked solid.. > > Just wondrinnnnn......... > > > LATER! > > Todd....!! > > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > > > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to actually look at it. > > > > And this is not a sarcastic response, either :) > > > > I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear. direct bolt in, > > easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed. > > > > -- > > > > Frederic Breitwieser > > Bridgeport CT 06606 > > > > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental > > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy > > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos > > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:20:45 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Previously, you (C. Brooks) wrote: > That's a good question. I don't know but to put a little perspective on > this... > > One of the club members has a Toyota truck with a mild 383, TH350 tranny, > Dual Marlin crawler transfer case both with 4.7:1 gears, and Dana axles (60 > rear, 44 front) with 5.?:1 gearing, and 36" swampers. I've seen him use > (Abuse) this truck pretty hard. The final drive ratio in first gear low > range is well over 200:1. That's ALOT of torque multiplication, and he's > never had an ARB fail (YET!) they are strong > > Having the diff locked won't make any difference in mileage. it does, no road is straight enough and no 2 tires are exactly the same dia. if I lock the dif the top speed does down and the fuel just pours into the engine > > Charles Brooks > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Todd....!! > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:20 PM > Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices > > > >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the > >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE? > > > >Just how strong is this unit? > > > >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage > >with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on? > > > >Just wondrinnnnn......... > > > > > >LATER! > > > >Todd....!! > > > > > >Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > >> > >> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made > for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the > Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have to > actually look at it. > >> > >> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :) > >> > >> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear. direct bolt in, > >> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed. > >> > >> -- > >> > >> Frederic Breitwieser > >> Bridgeport CT 06606 > >> > >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental > >> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy > >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos > >> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) > > > > > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:14:34 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: To Todd > That's REALLY high, in my book... and I'm SURE that YOU got GREAT deals > on everything! I got a more than fair deal, however if I shopped the hell out of it, I'm sure I could have done better. Since it was my first welder, and my friend who welds REALLY well is 2.5 hours away, I thought buying from a local welding supplier would be the way to go, because then when I get into trouble with parts, dumb questions, they'd be at least supportive, which they have been to date, and to me, its worth a few bucks. > Did ya get a Lincoln, or what brand? I don't remember ya mentionin? Lincoln 170T, 220V welder. Its not considered a hobby welder. - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:18:30 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: To Todd > Apologise(sp!) in advance for the interruption, welder duty cycle is > a ten minute period. 30% gives three minutes of welding to seven minutes > cool down time. The real duty cycle is typically a taper, like 20% at > output, to 100% at 1/3 of the max output, or something like that. Thanks for the information.. majorly useful!!! But I don't get why this stuff has to be so complicated. Put a bigger fan next to the transformer !! Oh well. - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:35:12 -0400 From: Bill Shaw Subject: Re: OBD2 problems >Now there are a few people getting over 600hp on a streetable Lt1 but >they are all using large blowers (close to 20psi or more), or large >N2O shots. Yes, Callaway is *only* able to get 400 hp out of their NA SuperNatural Impala. http://www.callawaycars.com/Impala/impala.htm - ------------------------------------------------------------ Bill Shaw '78 FI Spider (Will soon be) Fuel injected and stepping out over the line http://www.connix.com/~bshaw/fiatefi.html - ------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:41:23 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Hard on Engines > 30 minutes?! Do you think yer a little hard on the mules? Very hard. That's the point :) See what it can take, then build one and "know" what it can take. At least with OEM parts if it blows, its not terribly expensive if you can do most of the work yourself. > And if I had the beast I was talking about, the question wouldn't have > come about in the first place. This is probably true ! :) - -- Frederic Breitwieser Bridgeport CT 06606 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:42:41 -0500 From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com Subject: RE: SUN Scope Thanks for the lead, I will follow up on the Snap on connection. I didn't know that Sun was connected to Snap- On Don > -----Original Message----- > From: Programmer [SMTP:nwester@xxx.org] > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:15 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: SUN Scope > > Don, > > Try SnapOn / Sun division--or check their webpages for info. They usually > have repair depots (Equiserve) that end up doing the actual repairs on > older > equipment. Hope this helps... > > --Original Message----- > From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com> > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:17 AM > Subject: SUN Scope > > > >I was given a SUN 820 engine tester with a model SS-80 scope. I plan to > use > >the scope with a SUN 404 distributor machine to spin > >an HEI and bench test a 747. The SS-80 has a bad power transformer > >(shorted primary) does any one have schematics or repair > >manuals for SUN automotive test equipment. The SS-80 has a limit of 40KV > but > >I figure a simple voltage divider will extend that. > > > >Thanks for any help > > > >Don > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:58:52 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > A lot of newer american cars are now using a mix of metric and standard in > their cars. Oddly though these sizes seem different than what standards are in > the rest of the world. For instance most european hex head fasteners have head > sizes 10,13,17,19,22,24,27mm not sizes like 15 mm and 18 mm > Anybody know why? are these maybe JIS (Japanese) as opposed to DIN (German) > standards? > Or did the american auto manufacturers buy stock in the tool companies? > > Bill Edgeworth > What uses a 9mm or 11mm? I think there is a 16, 21 and 23 too. Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect these for scrap metal. Toolbox real estate is not cheap! Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion? Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13. alex ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:58:52 +0000 From: xxalexx@xxx.com Subject: Re: Getting loans.. (WAY off topic) > The GREAT part is that this store is RIGHT in front of Dad's REALLY > expensively priced subdivision.... Could sell anything from crystal to > Rolex's to King Cobra golf clubs and the like (the subdivision has a > REALLY nice 18 hole golf course and club n all) > > AND, of course, I'll just HAVE to have my Hi-Po parts section of the > store for a few Hi-Po knick knacks, like a set or two of Indy heads, > Brodix(for the Chev dudes), and Dart heads n the like for the Mush-tang > dudes as well... > > If ya'll can think of some other things that are popular these dayzzz > please let me know? > > Thanks! > > Todd.... 1. High performance Electric Golf Karts. or other fuels, maybe H2, or put a huge muffler, CAT and FI gasoline engine in them. Last month issue or Wired had a article on Electric Drag Racing. 2. High performance golf balls. there are some out there that really work. 3. Maybe try turning classic cars. A couple nice race cars in parking lot wiil bring people in. I still do work for grey-market, I ended up stareing and drooling most of the day at some Aston-Martin Lagonda's. One had a nice 8 barrel IR weber setup, the other FI, the engine builder signs his name on the valve cover after hand beating the aluminium body. Alex ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:58:56 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > > > What uses a 9mm or 11mm? I think there is a 16, 21 and 23 too. > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect > these for scrap metal. Toolbox real estate is not cheap! > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion? > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13. Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:17:40 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 - ----- Original Message ----- From: David A. Cooley To: Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 9:58 AM Subject: Re: Prowler V6 | > > | > What uses a 9mm or 11mm? I think there is a 16, 21 and 23 too. | > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect | > these for scrap metal. Toolbox real estate is not cheap! | > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion? | > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13. | | Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair. 5/8 + 16 3/4 + 19 7/8 + 21(?) Just keep the dremel tool away from Grumpy, none of the open ends are right anymore. Bashful ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:22:47 -0500 From: "Robert W. Hughes" Subject: Re: 10000rpm V8s If you want to hear American V8s at 8900 rpm (close) just tune in the next Nascar race on TV. I noticed the Charlotte race they had in-car video and sound with telemetry showing car speed, engine speed, and braking. Everybody seemed to be running about 8900 down the straights. - -- Robert W. Hughes (Bob) BackYard Engineering Houston, Texas rwhughe@xxx.net ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:42:33 -0500 (CDT) From: Roger Heflin Subject: Re: Prowler V6 On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, David A. Cooley wrote: > > > > > What uses a 9mm or 11mm? I think there is a 16, 21 and 23 too. > > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect > > these for scrap metal. Toolbox real estate is not cheap! > > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion? > > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13. > > Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair. > > And 7/16 and 11 mm seem to be interchangable. Roger ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:44:19 -0500 (CDT) From: Roger Heflin Subject: Re: 10000rpm V8s On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Robert W. Hughes wrote: > If you want to hear American V8s at 8900 rpm (close) just tune in the > next Nascar race on TV. I noticed the Charlotte race they had in-car > video and sound with telemetry showing car speed, engine speed, and > braking. Everybody seemed to be running about 8900 down the straights. And those guys are using race parts and the life of the engine is say maybe 1000 miles between rebuilds? Roger ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:00:40 -0700 From: "Peter Fenske" Subject: Re: Knocker sensors Hi Willy There are many ways to desensitize a knock sensor. One is to mount it on a standoff.. Like the previous post. These does alter the frequency response a wee bit. Teflon tape can be used as an attenuator as long as electrical ground contact is maintained. Also location is critical.. In addition although the knock sensors for later applications are all about 3K carbon elements the LT4 sensor is reputed to be quite a bit less sensitive. Best way to do this is build a knock detector box like some of the gn guys use and experiment. and how are you billy. ;petered out ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:31:49 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Prowler V6 Previously, you (Bruce Plecan) wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David A. Cooley > To: > Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 9:58 AM > Subject: Re: Prowler V6 > > > | > > > | > What uses a 9mm or 11mm? I think there is a 16, 21 and 23 too. > | > Some one would be doing a great service, if they could collect > | > these for scrap metal. Toolbox real estate is not cheap! > | > Also what is the correct shade tree english to metric conversion? > | > Alot of expert mechanics, say 1/2 works for 12 or 9/16 is just a 13. > | > | Actually, 1/2 and 13mm are extremely close, 14mm and 9/16 are also a pair. > 1/4 ~ 6.4 5/16 ~ 8 7/16 ~ 11 1/2 ~ 13 9/16 ~ 14 > 5/8 + 16 > 3/4 + 19 > 7/8 + 21(?) 1 1/4 ~ 36 ( subaru hub nuts) > Just keep the dremel tool away from Grumpy, none of the open ends are right > anymore. > Bashful > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:24:29 PDT From: Brandon Shehan Subject: Re: Best Chevy EFI engine..Supercharge the one You Have In your application I would recomnmend either leaving the 350 in there and supercharging it (most cost effective it'll give you that low down power) or going with a 6.5 GM Diesel with Turbo....We just got some 6.5 T M1113 Heavy Hummers at work (I wear camouflage to work)to replace 6.2 M1097 Heavy Hummer in the shelter carrier role (12,000 lbs GVW) and the power is outstanding. Fitting a big block injected Chevy in there would be a pain. Supercharging (Vortec, et al) would be the ticket....a properly enhanced 350 is all the power you'll need. SGT Brandon Shehan 3rd Infantry Division >From: "Michael Selig" >Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.edu >To: "Electronic Fuel Injection list" >CC: >Subject: Best Chevy EFI engine >Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:47:14 -0700 > >I am looking to do a couple engine swaps in the near future. I would like >to put a Vortec or equivalvent TPI engine in a Hummer. This needs to have >an RV cam and lots of low end torque to move that 68k lb alum shell around >on the rocks and such. > >My question is: What is the best all around chevy engine and car, > year --to approach an auto salvage yard to acquire the engine harness and >computer, and everything complete that is needed, all in one shot. > >I believe that camaros came with it in 1989. Or should one look to take >one >out of later blazer or suburban..?? > >My stock 350 TBI from the Hummer could probably be replanted in the a 79 CJ >5. Would be nice to upgrade it to TPI. > >What is your advise?? > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >------------------------------------- >Good judgment comes from experience, and a lotta that comes from bad >judgment. > >"Reality will kill you unless you deal with it through myths and >metaphors." >Ray Bradbury > >Learn from the mistakes of others. >You can't live long enough to make them all yourself. > >"This Millenium was for practice. >Next one counts!" > >Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the >straights > >Laws of Life: >1) Don't sweat the small stuff. >2) Everything is small stuff. > >"Love may be blind, but marriage is a real eye-opener" > >Michael Selig, MD, FACC. >www.lifelinecardiology.com > _______________________________________________________________ Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 10:36:02 -0500 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote: > > I am looking for as much info as possible on the V8 into GM minivan swap > > a number of people offered me help before but I cannot find where I saved the > messages (I have about 400 MB of archived email and it grows 4-5mb / day) > > I want to retain stock computer TBI system from 1986 Safari Cargo minivan > > I need details on > 1. mounts, rads, waterpumps, etc for the mechanical installation > can I use the 4.3 flexplate I have now for the 700 AT > what headers work ( v8 into S10/15?) Go to www.jagsthatrun.com and get the "chevy tpi/tbi swapping book". It's mostly about putting EFI engines into older chevelles and the like, but there's a chapter on the Astro conversion. Anything you need in the way of mechanical information should be there. > > 2. chip changes in the ECU that are required to make it run and be within > emissions for the 1986 model year Astros came with 747 ECMs, maybe not in '86 but certainly later. Get a V8 747 bin from the ftp site and that should be a good starting point. Also a 747 ECM if you don't have one. Mike Knell (JTR guy) says it's best to buy a complete engine including accessories, ECM, sensors, harness, etc. I agree although it's probably more expensive. That way you minimize the number of connectors that don't fit, mystery brackets, etc. > > I should be able to use the stock TBI unit with a new cal > I seem to remember that I have to change an addr. in the chip to tell the > ECU it is now running 8 cyl instead of 6 > > any other details that could be supplied would be great Read programming 101 and tuning tips, lots of info about the 747 ECM. > > Thanks > Clive > > n - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:47:42 -0700 From: Bill Edgeworth Subject: Re: Knocker sensors Thanks for the info Peter, This is a concern for me as I am still thinking about the roller after reading an article where on an engine with less breathing ability than mine it picked up 4/10ths over a 509 and for the price of a good 3 bolt timing set I might as well buy a gear set. Where could I find some info on this signal conditioner? Some people resopnded saying that it is taken care of in the software????? I would think that using a HC11 for signal processing would take up way to much processor time. Regards, Bill Move Over Profesionals Racing Peter Fenske wrote: > Hi Willy > > There are many ways to desensitize a knock sensor. > One is to mount it on a standoff.. Like the previous post. > These does alter the frequency response a wee bit. > Teflon tape can be used as an attenuator as long > as electrical ground contact is maintained. > Also location is critical.. > In addition although the knock sensors for later applications > are all about 3K carbon elements the LT4 sensor is > reputed to be quite a bit less sensitive. > > Best way to do this is build a knock detector box > like some of the gn guys use and experiment. > > and how are you billy. > > ;petered out ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:02:37 -0500 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: TBI for a 3.4 V-6 crate Motor Ludis Langens wrote: > > Brandon Shehan wrote: > > I have a 3.4 L GM V-6 in my Jeep Cherokee [...] > > > > I got a rotten TBI 2.8 S-10 Blazer engine [...] > > > > I also have the ECU (service number 1227429). I'm pricing > > out harnesses to replicate GM's and need to know if the ECU will be > > thoroughly confused by the 20% increase in displacement and need > > reprogramming. > > GM does/did offer a crate 3.4 upgrade for worn out S-10 2.8's. This > upgrade includes a new chip for the ECM. Perhaps you can order just the > chip by itself. Are you sure about this? The 3.4 crate motor is listed in the GMPP catalog, but last time I looked it was a replacement for carbed engines only, presumably because it didn't include an ECM or chip. Just curious, because I briefly considered this before I decided on the V8 for my blazer. - --steve > > -- > Ludis Langens ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com > Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies: http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/ - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:40:10 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Prowler V6 5 - 10 - 15 - 20 lb. ALL for WUSSES... Go to ANY BIG contractor build site and you'll find what I call a REAL MAN'S Hammer, once a 'hammer' gets over 20lbs. I begin to start callin em a Sledge hamma! The dinky lil 10 lb.'ers are good for doin body work in those easy to reach places that need to be 're-arranged'... such as when the 455 Buick I was tryin to squeeze into the 72 Jag XJ6 needed a 'bit' more space on the passenger side of the engine bay in order for the LAST cylinders part of the exhaust manifold to clear.... Right foot on the passenger side fender, the other foot on the cowl and about 1 to 5 minutes with the 'lil' hammer and she fit right in.... The passenger's feet tend to get a lil toasty in the summer, but in the winter it's JUST RIGHT! for a while anyways.... MAtter a fact, I'm STILL usin the puny STOCK XJ6 6 cylinder radiator for the big ol hunker 455 and it tends to get a bit hot if cruisin at higway speeds for more than a lil while without lettin off or coastin a bit every once in a while... Anyone have any experience with them newfangled aluminum radiators? I'm lookin at snaggin a HOWE for about $189.00 from their website at http://www.performancebodies.com/cooling/index.htm Actually I couldn't find Howes' own site, unless that's the one, anyone else? $184 is $100 less than the COPPER 4-row radiator my budy with the other 70 Bee bought for $285 from Paddock! ALSO, at the site listed above, they specify that a 2 row aluminum radiator cools up to 40% MORE than a 4-ROW copper/brass one! I would like to know if anyone here has used a Howe or any other aftermarket or OEM aluminum radiator, especially on a HI-PO, heavily used/abused small or Big Block car.... Thanks for any info or advice... LATER! Todd.... http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm Shannen Durphey wrote: > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > > > Well... Yeah :) I keep it in my metric tool drawer, next to > > >the metric hammer and the metric crescent wrench ;) > > > > metric? What's that? you mean you guys don't use SAE wrenches and a > > large 5lb sledge to make the wrench fit? > > > > > > > According to my Industrial sized BFH hammer scale, 5lbs is > "moderate". Large is around 10 lbs. > Shannen > > > -- > > > > Frederic Breitwieser > > Bridgeport CT 06606 > > > > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental > > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy > > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos > > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:55:58 -0700 From: "Peter Fenske" Subject: Re: Knocker sensors Hi Bill With the 3K carbon knock sensors, it should be possible to build a resistor network to attenuate the knock signal. Using the knock sensor in a voltage divider with a pullup For esc error the dc voltage is checked in the area of 2.5 volts. As long as the ecm sees this it is happy This brings up the possibility of using a T network. Haven't tried it but it should work :peter ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:53:34 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Diff types OK Jim, Must ask, what's hypoid gearing? Sounds interesting.... Off-list, if ya must! Thanks! Todd.... Jim Davies wrote: > > On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, SPECTRO COATING CORP. wrote: > > > Actually - Torsen was the manufacturer - Bob (I think that's his first name) > > Gleason invented that differential design. Zexel was the manufacturer last i > > knew. > > > Last name was actually Gleasman, but he changed it to Gleason. Also known > for hypoid gearing... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:47:53 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Knock sensors Hi Bill, Am VERY (read: VERY!!) interested in your RB project, especially as seeing how I have an RB engine(440+.060) as well and am planni non F.I.'ing as well as twin Turbo'ing it as well... (It's in a 70 Bee...) So, with that in mind, what is a 730 that you're 'adapting' to your RB? And What all are you runnin on that thing, noticed ya mentioned gear drive, blower, and ROLLER all in the same sentence!! Again, I'm VERYinterested in whatever you're doin, please do tell? I have the need for speed, and only wanna push the Bee into the 10's, for now, and have a little more to do before I attain even a 12.XX!! Thanks in advance for your info, etc... LATER! Todd.... - ------------- Bill Edgeworth wrote: > > Hi all, > > I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about > Knock sensors: > How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If > they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a > knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine) > What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)? > > Bill Edgeworth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:52:05 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Knock sensors OK, I'm REALLY new to the termonology in these parts... Would op-amp and KS, and comparator be listed in the list of terms for this group? If not, please define? Thanks! Todd.... Bruce Plecan wrote: > > Heck, they can pick up the fractured ribs in a serpentine belt. A poor > Alternator bearing. Timing gears might give it KS a migrane, from all the > noise. > Next chance, I get I think I'm gonna try an op-amp, and comparator, and > see what I get. > In my experiments with the ESC Module KS, there were slight differences. > >From memory, was a max of like 4 degrees knock to 0 for a given engine. > Bruce > > | Hi all, > | I am adapting a 730 to a Mopar RB engine and I have some questions about > | Knock sensors: > | How sensitive are knock sensors to noise generated by gear drives? If > | they are affected would selection solve the problem? ( for instance a > | knock sensor off a factory supercharged engine) > | What about noise from mechanical (roller cams)? > | Bill Edgeworth ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:57:08 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Types of differentials/Traction aiding devices Thanks for the clarification Peter, However, when yo mention that 'ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That is, off road, or drag racing.' Drag racing MOSTLY relies on GETTING TRACTION, whereas a HIGH coefficient of friction (Good to GREAT) i.e. traction, is one of the primary goals... I'm confused about your post... Any help? Thanks, Todd.... Peter D. Hipson wrote: > > ARB's can only be used on surfaces with a low coefficient of friction. That > is, off road, or drag racing. In either of these areas, who cares about > mileage! Strong: well, we beat the hell out of them on trails, and they > don't break very often. Most common problem is air leaks, etc. > > At 04:30 PM 6/2/99 -0700, you wrote: > >Can ya do a W.O.T. launch with the button OFF, then turn it on in the > >middle of the launch, under FULL TORQUE? > > > >Just how strong is this unit? > > > >AND, would a car with one of these air posi's get better gas mileage > >with the posi OFF than it would with the air-posi on? > > > >Just wondrinnnnn......... > > > > > >LATER! > > > >Todd....!! > > > > > >Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > >> > >> > The type of posi is NOT dictated by the type of rear it's in or made > for. There are limited slip, Torsen and locking differentials made for the > Dana 60. If you want to know what type of unit is in the rear you'll have > to actually look at it. > >> > >> And this is not a sarcastic response, either :) > >> > >> I'd highly recommend an ARB airlocker for this rear. direct bolt in, > >> easy to control with a pushbutton, and totally open when needed. > >> > >> -- > >> > >> Frederic Breitwieser > >> Bridgeport CT 06606 > >> > >> 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental > >> 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy > >> 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos > >> 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) > > > > > > > Thanks, > Peter Hipson (founder, NEHOG) > 1995 White NA Hummer Wagon ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:59:56 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? WOW, Thanks Jim! I think my 70 Bee came with a Super Trac Pack, so maybe I have the Trac-lok version? It works good whatever the name is! Take er easy mang! LATER! Todd.... - -------- Jim Davies wrote: > > On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Todd....!! wrote: > > > Is the Dana 60 considered a Sure Grip? Or just a posi? > > > > Don't know what to call it, now that I think about it, anybody? > > > Older 60s used an Eaton PowrLok [2 piece case] later ones used a Trac-Lok > [one piece case, no ramps] > > Older 8 3/4s used a PowrLok. In 1968-9 they started using the Borg-Warner > Spin-resistant [cone-type] > > Older [50s-60s] GMs used the Powr-Lok also > > Olds used the spin-resistant in the late 60s > > Ford 8 3/4-9-9 3/8 inch dropouts used a small, plate type LSD called an > Equalock [aka Equapop] which, due to the small available diff size, was > never used with 427s. The cars came with a 4 pinion open diff and a > no-spin could be installed at the dealer or elsewhere. > > All of the above [except the no-spin] are limited slips, with a plethora > of marketing names, like 'positraction' 'safe-t-track' 'sure-grip' etc > etc. > > Just think of a conventional differential, with a bit of friction between > each axle shaft and the diff case added. Breakaway torques are in the area > of 30 to 250 ft lbs. Once you exceed the breakaway torque, they act like a > conventional diff. The breakaway torque varies a lot between individual > samples of identical units. > > The Powr-Lok has a 'feedback' capability making it more desireable, and > more expensive to mfr. Obsolete. It was the best of the plate types, IMO. > > Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:50:05 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: To Todd Thanks for the info as well Bob! Will take this into consideration.... REALLY appreciate it, probably saved me COUNTLESS hours of sittin around waitin for equipment to cool down! YUK! What a WASTE that would beeee.... LATER, Todd.... rr wrote: > > Frederic Breitwieser wrote: > > > have a lot of tubing to weld together and panels, firewalls, etc, so > > something more heavy duty was important. These things are not only > > rated in voltage/current output, but also duty cycle... keep that in > > mind. If a particular unit can give you 30A at a 30% duty cycle, that > > means you can weld for a minute, then wait three. Stepping up a size, > > could be rated at 50A at the same duty cycle, which means if you only > > need 30A, you now have a much higher duty cycle. > > > > Apologise(sp!) in advance for the interruption, welder duty cycle is > based on > a ten minute period. 30% gives three minutes of welding to seven minutes > of > cool down time. The real duty cycle is typically a taper, like 20% at > max > output, to 100% at 1/3 of the max output, or something like that. > > BobR. > > (Who him-self couldn't find out this info for a looonnnggg time...) > > > > few people to weld little trailer brackets back on, etc, mostly minor > > stuff. No one's been brave enough to bring by a rust-bucket that > > needs its quarters cut and welded. > > > > -- > > > > Frederic Breitwieser > > Bridgeport CT 06606 > > > > 1993 Supercharged Lincoln Continental > > 1989 HWMMV w/turbocharged 500cid Caddy > > 1975 Dodge D200 Club Cab soon to have 431 stroker + turbos > > 2000 (I hope) Buick GTP (Mid-Engined Sports Car) ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #331 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. 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