DIY_EFI Digest Friday, June 4 1999 Volume 04 : Number 335 In this issue: Cranks Re:Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: Prowler V6 RE: Cast ironvs. Steel was Prowler V6 Re: Cast ironvs. Steel was Prowler V6 SV: metric to english conversion Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? RE: Cranks Re: Cranks NASCAR go EFI? Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Using ABS Hall sensor setup as speed sensor Re: NASCAR go EFI? Re: NASCAR go EFI? Re: NASCAR go EFI? Re:Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 metric disapproval (was metric to english conversion) Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Cranks Re: NASCAR go EFI? Posi Lube and additive Re: NASCAR go EFI? Re: metric disapproval (was metric to english conversion) Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: To Todd Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Re: Posi Lube and additive Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: NASCAR go EFI? See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:23:03 EDT From: AL8001@xxx.com Subject: Cranks In a message dated 99-06-03 23:15:18 EDT, ECMnut@xxx.com writes: >A relative of mine builds Chevs & some SB Mopars >for NHRA Super Stock class cars, and he insists that >the cast cranks flex less, resulting for more accurate >spark/valve/combustion events from cylinder to cylinder. Flexing could be tested with a torque wrentch and/or a long bar. Fasten the crank at one end then turn the other. ( The crank may need to be placed on roller for a accurate test. ) As for a cast crank flexing less, stiffer sometimes means more brittle. For short term use ( drag ) accurate timeing and such may outweigh frequent crank replacements. Isn't the material for cast steel crank closer to cast iron than a high alloy steel? Harold ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 06:43:40 -0500 From: DC Smith Subject: Re:Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Yep, considering a motor putting out 849 hp should do the quarter in about.. say.. 7 seconds?? It would take ~170 runs to add up to 29 minutes. Course, anyone serious about running a Buick V-6 with that kind of hp and wanting any kind of longevity, is naturally gonna use a stage II setup. Considering a 4.1 litre block is about the weakest block buick makes, or.. made. I guess I don't need to worry about the puny amount of hp my car makes, then. :^) Besides, I'm still waitin for someone to bring me a mopar motor and let me hook MY tach to it. :) Shannen Durphey wrote: > > Todd....!! wrote: > > > > Maybe 29 minutes isn't a long time when daily driving the sucker, but 29 > > minutes at a quarter mile at a time is a LIFETIME! ey? > > > > LATER! > > > > Todd.... > If it took me 29 minutes to complete the quarter, while running at a > steady 10 grand, my pride and self respect would force me to give up > running on the drums and at least put rims on the car. ; ) > Shannen - -- *********************************************************************** Dan Smith 84 Regal 12.13@112 GSCA# 1459 St.Charles, Missouri mailto:dcsmith@xxx.net http://www.tetranet.net/users/morepoweral *********************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:53:54 EDT From: ECMnut@xxx.com Subject: Re: Prowler V6 In a message dated 6/4/99 1:06:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, bearbvd@xxx.net writes: > and he insists that > >the cast cranks flex less, resulting for more accurate > >spark/valve/combustion events from cylinder to cylinder. > > Betcha he is trying to run the forged cranks with a regular damper. Put a > good viscous damper on a forged crank and this problem goes away. The cast > cranks damp out the vibrations better, but they are _not_ stiffer! > Hi Greg, Either that or he is just trying to save a few bucks on cranks. He uses use the ATI dampers. They run the ATI baseball hats too, just to be safe. Mike V. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 08:25:06 -0400 From: Michael Kasimirsky Subject: RE: Cast ironvs. Steel was Prowler V6 > All points well taken but a few contradictions. If the > steel part is so > much stiffer why does it have a harder time tampening tortional vibes. > Ductile essentially means "bendable without breaking." It is > for this reason It's a difference between steel and cast iron and the physical properties of the materials themselves. It has to do with the grain structures of the materials, the excess carbon present in cast iron compared to steel, etc. It's the reason that machine tools are all made from cast iron, not steel. If you want a better explanation than that, consult a materials science textbook. :-) Michael Kasimirsky 1990 Yamaha FZR400 Superbike Racer Loki Motorsports 1993 Kawasaki ZX1100D1 Streetbike Rider FASTTRAX & WERA Expert #21 Sponsored by Loki Motorsports & Bridgestone mtk@xxx.edu ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:26:58 -0600 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: Cast ironvs. Steel was Prowler V6 >Greg, > All points well taken but a few contradictions. If the steel part is so >much stiffer why does it have a harder time tampening tortional vibes. This happens this way because cast iron has much more "hysteresis" than steel when it is deformed and then allowed to return to its undeformed shape.--Not saying that there is any permanent deformation in the iron part after it is loaded and unloaded, but that a significantly higher portion of the strain energy that was put into deforming the part is converted to heat when the part resumes its unloaded shape with an iron part. This conversion to heat is where the vibration damping property of iron comes from. This property is why massive iron castings are used for things like machine tool beds--there is less likeihood of tool chattering than there would be with a steel bed because of the iron's vibration damping properties. A machine tool is clearly designed for stiffness and stability, and ends up being FAR stronger than it needs to be once these primary design concerns have been addressed, and, of course, weight is of no serious concern in the case of a machine tool. And properly surface hardened steel has equally good, probably slightly better, wear properties than cast iron. For instance, lathes such as Lodge & Shipleys, which have particularly massive bed castings are regarded as _VERY_ desireable units--extremely rugged, durable, and exceptionally accurate tools. >Ductile essentially means "bendable without breaking." It is for this reason >all your points hold true. Another thing which lots of folks overlook about stiffness--besides the fact that the elastic modulus of cast iron is about 50 to 66% that of steel, depending on alloy--is the fact that virtually all steels have about the same elastic modulus_regardless_ of alloy _or_ of state of heat treatment! You gain hardness and strength, and lose ductility with a harder state of heat treatment of a given steel part, but you _do_NOT_ gain any stiffness by going to a fancy alloy or by heat treating a steel part!! Ponchos do have a rather massive cranks, big crank pins, lots of "overlap", so prolly not much crank deflection, and I will stand corrected that the block failures in them may just be due to inadequate webs. Regards, Greg ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 15:41:17 +0200 From: Arentz-Grastvedt Tom Subject: SV: metric to english conversion Me to, please. Tom (Norwegian) > -----Opprinnelig melding----- > Fra: Robertson, Nigel [SMTP:nigel.robertson@xxx.uk] > Sendt: 4. juni 1999 10:12 > Til: 'diy_efi@xxx.edu' > Emne: RE: metric to english conversion > > Go on then, just for fun, email me a copy please. > > Nigel (English) > > _________________________________________________________________________ > Nigel Robertson, BEng. CEng. MIEE. > Senior Engineer > Roke Manor Research Ltd > Old Salisbury Lane > Romsey > SO51 0ZN > Tel 01794 833524 > Fax 01794 526943 > email nigel.robertson@xxx.uk > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Regnirps@xxx.com] > > Sent: 04 June 1999 06:36 > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > Subject: Re: metric to english conversion > > > > >I grew up outside the US, with the metric system, and I can't believe > > >how hard we make life for ourselves here in the USA by sticking to the > > > > >English system, which even the English don't use any more! > > > > >-John Carri > > > > I can give you a lot of good reasons not to use the French System in an > > essay > > I have on hand if you give me your email address : ) > > > > Charlie Springer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 07:24:49 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Davies Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > Jim Davies wrote: > . > > > > Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things. > Oh, no. I have two pints, they will be hoarded. Cone-type or plate-type? We still buy the > additive at the dealership. Everyone sells an additive. Not the same as the original. Maybe I will contact the Makah for the secret ingredient... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:46:52 -0500 From: "Broadus, Don F." Subject: RE: Cranks The cast crank does flex less as you state, and it is also brittle, once you exceed the limit the cast part shatters like glass. many stroker cranks are cast for cost savings and flex. The harmonics are some what dampened in a cast crank were a billet or steel crank will "ring" at certain harmonics transferring loads to bearings and rods. Just my $.02 > -----Original Message----- > From: AL8001@xxx.com] > Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 6:23 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Cranks > > In a message dated 99-06-03 23:15:18 EDT, ECMnut@xxx.com writes: > > >A relative of mine builds Chevs & some SB Mopars > >for NHRA Super Stock class cars, and he insists that > >the cast cranks flex less, resulting for more accurate > >spark/valve/combustion events from cylinder to cylinder. > > Flexing could be tested with a torque wrentch and/or a long bar. Fasten > the > crank at one end then turn the other. ( The crank may need to be placed on > > roller for a accurate test. ) As for a cast crank flexing less, stiffer > sometimes means more brittle. For short term use ( drag ) accurate > timeing > and such may outweigh frequent crank replacements. > > Isn't the material for cast steel crank closer to cast iron than a high > alloy > steel? > > Harold ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:59:08 EDT From: A70Duster@xxx.com Subject: Re: Cranks In a message dated 6/4/1999 5:28:26 AM Mountain Daylight Time, AL8001@xxx.com writes: << >A relative of mine builds Chevs & some SB Mopars >for NHRA Super Stock class cars, and he insists that >the cast cranks flex less, resulting for more accurate >spark/valve/combustion events from cylinder to cylinder. >> That makes no sense. Forged steel has a higher modulus of elasticity (E) than does cast iron. The E factor is used to determine how much "give" a cross section of material has. The only way a cast crank could have less flex is if the cross section throughout the crank is greater than a forged crank. I don't believe that is the case. See ya, Mike ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:26:53 -0700 From: Jason_Leone@xxx.com Subject: NASCAR go EFI? <> So they can make a bunch of LEFT TURNS even faster? How archaic, yet that group of cars is the hands down favorite amongst Americans. Yikes. Give me F1, and FIA GT races and I'll be thankful. :P ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 12:38:26 -0400 From: "SPECTRO COATING CORP." Subject: Re: Turbo'd s.b. chev...in a 69 Camaro? maybe? >> > Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things. >> Oh, no. I have two pints, they will be hoarded. > >Cone-type or plate-type? > > We still buy the >> additive at the dealership. > >Everyone sells an additive. Not the same as the original. Maybe I will >contact the Makah for the secret ingredient... > i'm pretty sure that the missing ingredient is Sperm whale oil - that's why you can't get it anymore. I gather that they can't synthetically reproduce it's lubricating qualities yet. FWIW - Jason ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:20:41 -0400 From: "C. Brooks" Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? My scanner at home is making some HUGE files out of these pages. Send me a reminder at the beginning of next week and I'll take the JTR book inot work and scan all 4 pages with the good scanner :) Charles Brooks - -----Original Message----- From: Vance Rose To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 11:32 PM Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? >Hi Charles > > Would like a copy of the mounts TIA. Have an older copy of JTR book. >Friend want to pep up his wife' van. > > >Vance >At 02:50 PM 6/3/1999 -0400, you wrote: >>I have the JTR book. The Astro Van section is only 4 pages or so but they do >>have a full scale drawing of the motor mounts you'll need to fabricate. If >>you would like I can scan most of the info for ya. >> >>Charles Brooks >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: steve ravet >>To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> >>Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 2:15 PM >>Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? >> >> >>> >>> >>>Clive Apps Techno-Logicals 416 510 0020 wrote: >>>> >>>> I am looking for as much info as possible on the V8 into GM minivan swap >>>> >>>> a number of people offered me help before but I cannot find where I saved >>the >>>> messages (I have about 400 MB of archived email and it grows 4-5mb / day) >>>> >>>> I want to retain stock computer TBI system from 1986 Safari Cargo minivan >>>> >>>> I need details on >>>> 1. mounts, rads, waterpumps, etc for the mechanical installation >>>> can I use the 4.3 flexplate I have now for the 700 AT >>>> what headers work ( v8 into S10/15?) >>> >>>Go to www.jagsthatrun.com and get the "chevy tpi/tbi swapping book". >>>It's mostly about putting EFI engines into older chevelles and the like, >>>but there's a chapter on the Astro conversion. Anything you need in the >>>way of mechanical information should be there. >>> >>>> >>>> 2. chip changes in the ECU that are required to make it run and be within >>>> emissions for the 1986 model year >>> >>>Astros came with 747 ECMs, maybe not in '86 but certainly later. Get a >>>V8 747 bin from the ftp site and that should be a good starting point. >>>Also a 747 ECM if you don't have one. Mike Knell (JTR guy) says it's >>>best to buy a complete engine including accessories, ECM, sensors, >>>harness, etc. I agree although it's probably more expensive. That way >>>you minimize the number of connectors that don't fit, mystery brackets, >>>etc. >>> >>>> >>>> I should be able to use the stock TBI unit with a new cal >>>> I seem to remember that I have to change an addr. in the chip to tell the >>>> ECU it is now running 8 cyl instead of 6 >>>> >>>> any other details that could be supplied would be great >>> >>>Read programming 101 and tuning tips, lots of info about the 747 ECM. >>> >>>> >>>> Thanks >>>> Clive >>>> >>>> n >>> >>>-- >>>Steve Ravet >>>steve.ravet@xxx.com >>>Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. >>>www.arm.com >>> >> >> > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 12:42:26 -0500 From: "Paul Campbell" Subject: Using ABS Hall sensor setup as speed sensor This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BEAE87.B33D2760 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all, I have been monitoring this wonderful list for some time now = and am impressed with the variety and depth everyone brings to the = cybertable. I am interested in setting up a hall sensor on a nondriven wheel to be = used as a speed (i.e. RPM) sensor. All it has to do is give me on/off = output and my program will do the rest. My question is, are there any = ABS units I might look at. There are two main criteria: 1) has to be = somewhat universal in that it can be interchanged onto a variety of cars = with minimal fabrication(although, even if one certain setup isn't = necessarily universal, one could possibly find one for whatever type of = car they have). 2) it must be readily available and inexpensive.=20 I would like to test this on a late model mustang (fox body) so if = anyone has any specific suggestions on other cars that might swap over = their sensors that would get me started. If there is anyone with general Hall Sensor suggestions that would be = great too. I am considering the ABS setup because of possible junkyard = availablility. .=20 Thanks Paul Campbell campbels@xxx.edu - ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BEAE87.B33D2760 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello all, I have been monitoring = this wonderful=20 list for some time now and am impressed with the variety and depth = everyone=20 brings to the cybertable.
 
I am interested in setting up a hall = sensor on a=20 nondriven wheel to be used as a speed (i.e. RPM) sensor. All it has to = do is=20 give me on/off output and my program will do the rest. My question is, = are there=20 any ABS units I might look at. There are two main criteria: 1) has to be = somewhat universal in that it can be interchanged onto a variety of cars = with=20 minimal fabrication(although, even if one certain setup isn't = necessarily=20 universal, one could possibly find one for whatever type of car they = have). 2)=20 it must be readily available and inexpensive.
 
I would like to test this on a late model mustang = (fox body)=20 so if anyone has any specific suggestions on other cars that might swap = over=20 their sensors that would get me started.
 
If there is anyone with general Hall Sensor = suggestions that=20 would be great too. I am considering the ABS setup because of possible = junkyard=20 availablility. .
 
Thanks
 
Paul Campbell
 
 
- ------=_NextPart_000_000E_01BEAE87.B33D2760-- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:41:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Squash Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? - --- Jason_Leone@xxx.com wrote: > <> > > So they can make a bunch of LEFT TURNS even faster? > How archaic, yet that group > of cars is the hands down favorite amongst > Americans. Americans are archaic, but we have more planes and balls. > Yikes. Give me F1, and FIA > GT races and I'll be thankful. :P Yeah, and soccer sux, too. Andy _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @xxx.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 15:33:30 -0400 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? | <> | So they can make a bunch of LEFT TURNS even faster? How archaic, yet that group | of cars is the hands down favorite amongst Americans. Yikes. Give me F1, and FIA | GT races and I'll be thankful. :P Right F1 interesting?, racing?, F1 stopped racing years ago. If there are 2 passes the crowd goes nuts. 2 sec pit stops, wow, 2 or 3 stops for fuel wow. GTP, lets see Nissan for a while, then Toyota, wow. FIA-GT, haven't seen any but from what I've read yawwwwwwwwwnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn. When is the last time 3 F1s went thru a turn together, and all exited?. Racing ain't been right for almost 30 years. Go back to the early can-am days, late 60 Trans-Am, that was some racing. Rules for safety, ie cage material, and a spec tire. Use all stock sheetmetal, and go race, thank you. Random draw the ecm at the start of practice, then qualifing, and for the race. Then have some talent rise to the surface. Bruce | | ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:51:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Davies Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? On Fri, 4 Jun 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote: > Racing ain't been right for almost 30 years. Go back to the early can-am > days, > late 60 Trans-Am, that was some racing. Return with us now to the days of heavy-metal. Noise you could brush your teeth with. Miss it... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 17:17:53 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re:Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 At 06:43 AM 6/4/99 -0500, you wrote: >Yep, considering a motor putting out 849 hp should do the quarter in >about.. say.. 7 seconds?? It would take ~170 runs to add up to 29 >minutes. Course, anyone serious about running a Buick V-6 with that kind >of hp and wanting any kind of longevity, is naturally gonna use a stage >II setup. Considering a 4.1 litre block is about the weakest block buick >makes, or.. made. > I guess I don't need to worry about the puny amount of hp my car makes, >then. :^) Besides, I'm still waitin for someone to bring me a mopar >motor and let me hook MY tach to it. :) Your calc is off... Lawrence Conley had over 1100 HP in TWEAKED and was running 7.80's @ 178 MPH =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:39 From: "John Carri" Subject: metric disapproval (was metric to english conversion) >I grew up outside the US, with the metric system, and I can't believe >how hard we make life for ourselves here in the USA by sticking to >the English system, which even the English don't use any more! > > -John Carri ________________________________________________ >Given all of the bureaucratic nonsense that ISO has come up with, I'm >just as glad for us to have a system of units that is insulated from >idiotic French bureaucracy and "world" politics!! IMO , USS, SAE, >and NPT thread standards are generally better designs that ALL of the >various DIN, JIS, French, and Italian metric thread junk. Also, the >inch (and both numerical and decimal fractions thereof) are VERY much >more practical scale units for machine work and tolerancing than mms. >ever will be, thank you very much. >Regards, Greg _______________________________________________ >I can give you a lot of good reasons not to use the French System in >an essay I have on hand if you give me your email address : ) > >Charlie Springer _______________________________________________ Well, obviously there are still strong feelings on the subject! Everyone is entitled to an opinion, you're welcome to yours, but here's mine. I don't know enough about thread standards to make an informed comment, but consider that here in America a "half-inch" water pipe has neither an inner diameter, nor an outer diameter, that is anywhere near half of an inch. Consider that there are drills sized by inch fractions, others sized by alphabets, and the two sets overlap in some completely illogical way. Consider that tire sizes are specified with a width in millimetres, an inner diameter in inches, and an aspect-ratio that is dimensionless. Consider that engine displacements are specified in CID, and you mill your heads in thousandths of an inch, but for some reason combustion chamber volume is measured in cubic centimetres! I know it is hard to change from what one is used to, after nine years in the US I myself have a foot in both camps, for instance I first got involved with working on cars in the US so I think of engines in cubic inches and would have a hard time converting to litres. But as one who has lived with both sets of standards I can tell you that life is much simpler,saner, and more logical in the metric world. It's just a lot easier to multiply and divide things by powers of ten rather than factors like 1728 (cubic inches per cubic foot). Most physics and engineering formulae become so much cleaner and easier to understand when you remove the magic numerical conversion factors needed to permit pounds,slugs,feet,inches,miles,gallons,ounces,and whatever else to coexist in the same formula. And I've done machine shop work in millimetres & kilograms, and I find it a lot easier and more sensible than working alternately in thousandths of an inch, sixty-fourths of an inch, feet, pounds, ounces, and so on. The French don't rule the rest of the world, you know, and certainly don't have the power to impose a measurement system on everyone, so if every country but the US and Liberia have adopted the metric system, there's a good reason for it! Whatever, being on this list is all about having fun with EFI, so whether you prefer gph, psi and lb/cubic foot or their metric equivalents, happy tinkering to you, and you'll hear nothing more from me about measurement systems. I'm just thankful there are no "metric volts" and "English Volts" to deal with! - -John Carri ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 17:50:59 EDT From: ARoss10661@xxx.com Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Id like a copy too if u wouldn't mind ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 18:19:39 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 > Your calc is off... Lawrence Conley had over 1100 HP in TWEAKED and was > running 7.80's @ 178 MPH Yes, using stage II parts, which is much better than OEM anything :) Maaaaaaajor difference, even though its still very, very impressive. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 18:38:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: Cranks - -> Isn't the material for cast steel crank closer to cast iron than a - -> high alloy steel? When drilling on a cast steel crank (such as the Scat 383 Chevy cranks) the chips are long and curly, like when drilling on a regular steel crank. Cast iron cranks make very tiny fragmented chips and lots of powder when drilling. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 18:14:35 -0600 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? >On Fri, 4 Jun 1999, Bruce Plecan wrote: > >> Racing ain't been right for almost 30 years. Go back to the early can-am >> days, >> late 60 Trans-Am, that was some racing. > >Return with us now to the days of heavy-metal. Noise you could brush your >teeth with. Miss it... Ah yes--remember the 8 liter Ferrari Can-Am car? Made a noise that might best be described as a "laxative on wheels"!!! :-) That or that #42 Plymouth in about '66!! Greg ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 20:44:25 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Posi Lube and additive Jim Davies wrote: > > On Wed, 2 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > > > Jim Davies wrote: > > . > > > > > > Oh, yeah. There is no more good posi lube available, complicating things. > > Oh, no. I have two pints, they will be hoarded. > > Cone-type or plate-type? Recommended for plate types. > > We still buy the > > additive at the dealership. > > Everyone sells an additive. Not the same as the original. Maybe I will > contact the Makah for the secret ingredient... Ok, this may be good for a laugh. Is it whale oil? (GM stuff..) Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 20:57:14 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? Jason_Leone@xxx.com wrote: > > <> > > So they can make a bunch of LEFT TURNS even faster? How archaic, yet that group > of cars is the hands down favorite amongst Americans. Yikes. Give me F1, and FIA > GT races and I'll be thankful. :P They're all in a hurry to get right back to the place they started from. But it will be fun to have some Nascar EFI "hand-me-down" tricks around. I can't wait for a post that says "I've just put a copy of Earnhardt's latest .bin in incoming, for anyone who's interested." Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 21:02:13 -0400 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: metric disapproval (was metric to english conversion) John Carri wrote: > > Whatever, being on this list is all about having fun with EFI, so > whether you prefer gph, psi and lb/cubic foot or their metric > equivalents, happy tinkering to you, and you'll hear nothing more from > me about measurement systems. I'm just thankful there are no "metric > volts" and "English Volts" to deal with! > > -John Carri The time clock at work seems to use metric minutes. Shannen ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 20:59:53 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 > of hp and wanting any kind of longevity, is naturally gonna use a stage > II setup. Which I didn't, I had nice new wiseco pistons, and everything else was merely "machined" meaning balancing, blueprinting, shotpeening, after being checked out with the old coil of course. Had I gone stage II, I'm confident the motor would have lasted. >Considering a 4.1 litre block is about the weakest block buick > makes, or.. made. Ya think? I thought it was a decent block. Anyhoo, I have finished a second one but not going to rev the shit out of it like we did on the test motor. > then. :^) Besides, I'm still waitin for someone to bring me a mopar > motor and let me hook MY tach to it. :) When my truck's done, you can hook your tach to it. But you won't see more than 4000 RPM :) Just a lot of boost. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 21:14:25 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: To Todd > Thanks for the exact model # of the welder ya picked up, will see how Welcome :) > HOBBIES.... A HOBBY carist would 'do' a car like a Fiero body > swap(re-body), or VW kit(Dune Buggy) and the like, ya know? Its a hobby from the point of view that you don't make a living doing it, but its not a hobby as far as tools. I'd much rather overspend slightly, than to purchase a tool that I outgrow in a year... and welding together a tubular chassis that I will be sitting in, driving on the street, and driving at Limerock, I'd like to have nice welds. Considering my life as a driver is worth more than a $1000 welder, guess what I bought :) Maybe the logic isn't very sound, but emotionally, it allowed me to part with the wallet-housed green stuff and get a nice welder. > I'll most likely be using an older 70-81 Camaro for my For my mid-engine chassis, I considered getting a 92 Caprice chassis for $125, from a local body shop. Then, I decided instead of fabricating all these crazy things to fit the curvature of the chassis, it would be less of a headache CAD wise just to build from scratch. > suspension/chassis which will reduce my cost considerably.... MAY even > use parts of the original body as support for the Defender 'glass .... Well, GM suspension parts are fine, however they are heavy. This is why I went with the aluminum corvette pieces. Got four A-arms, half shafts, spindles, ball joints, rotors, calipers, strut bars and a whole bunch of stuff for about 800 bucks... so I couldn't complain. Another good choice for independant suspension front/rear are the tubular GM racing parts - Howe and Comeman machien have them for 60 bucks or less for a lower, and 45 bucks for an upper. use 2wd S-10 front spindles in the front, and 4wd S-10 front spindles in the back. And you can use eldorado/toronado CV shafts for axles, attaching to the transmission of your choice fairly cheaply. Also, by coincidence, the S-10 spindles I have do fit inside corvette rims. Go figure :) I went for the fancy aluminum vette stuff simply because its high performance, lightweight, and looks cool, however nothign wrong with the tubular a-arms. To keep the rear wheels straight, since you'd be using front spindles in the rear, do what most cars nowadays do, they use a tie-rod like thing from the spindle to a calculated mounting point on the chassis, to keep the toe in/out constant (or deliberately varied, depending) during suspension travel. Quite easy. Two tie rods, and a threaded rod between them, and that's it. Don't forget jam nuts. > doesn't want it anymore... A SILVER Viper GTS ACR(Racer) with 5 point > harnesses and all was sittin on the showroom floor!! There ya go. :) > When lookin at it the width of the Viper isn't too far off of that of an > older style Camaro.... Yes, but the length is different. Someone makes a viper body that bolts to an 80's up corvette... which on occasion you can find in the 5000 buck range if the body or interior is in shitty condition. > can contribute to any differences.... On the rear yes, but in the front, you introduce bump steer more often than not due to the spindles steering rotation angle (kingpin angle) by moving the wheels out. > have to snag one or two of their IRS and install one in the first or > second Defender just to make it look and ride like the REAL Viper... I don't like the jag rear AT ALL. THink about the GM tubular stuff, I can give you some more info if you email me... its fairly inexpensive all things being equal. > Wonder how much tehy'd take for the entire rear.... I found one in Milford CT, and the yard wanted 800 buck for it. The vette stuff was 800 front and back. > Can't WAIT to F.I. and Turbo the Mopar as well! Yeah, I got the engine started during the week with the 730 ECM, with a camaro chip, and slightly larger injectors. Ran real lean, sputtered upon starting, but at least it started, so I'm heading in the right direction. The participants of this insided I was nuts not to keep the predater carb attached. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 21:24:18 -0400 From: "C. Brooks" Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? Don't mind at all, when I get a chance I'll take the JTR book to work and scan it using a better scanner then I have at home. All I'll need is someone to remind me next week :) Charles Brooks - -----Original Message----- From: ARoss10661@xxx.com> To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> Date: Friday, June 04, 1999 8:31 PM Subject: Re: SBC V8 into Astro/Safari ? >Id like a copy too if u wouldn't mind > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 18:29:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Davies Subject: Re: Posi Lube and additive On Fri, 4 Jun 1999, Shannen Durphey wrote: > > > > Cone-type or plate-type? > Recommended for plate types. > > > > > We still buy the > > > additive at the dealership. > > > > Everyone sells an additive. Not the same as the original. Maybe I will > > contact the Makah for the secret ingredient... > > Ok, this may be good for a laugh. Is it whale oil? (GM stuff..) > Shannen > > In the good old days, posi lube was premixed not additive type [in my experience, anyway] There was two types: plate and cone. Any car mfrs brand was okay [there were only 3 real car mfrs that used LSDs] It wasnt until the demise of Dexron that lube-related LSD problems appeared. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 21:44:14 -0400 From: brucep@xxx.net Subject: Non-diy_efi, dyno help This is a "you won't beleive it least you see it story" I was walking through the "junk yard" today looking for some ignition parts for my pulling tractor's ignition and I walked past this piece of equipment that looked like a chasis dyno. Upon closer inspection I see it is a Mustang dyno and it looks brand new. (told ya u wouldn't beleive it and I swaer this is for real) I ran to the office and asked whats up with the dyno, I was told they are scrapping it. It is removed from an auto testing facility that that won't be used. I'm sure the guys in this junk yard haven't a clue what they actually have. My question is this can the eddy current unit from this dyno be used to make a motor dyno? I can't beleive the sensors and parts that are just sitting there. I am currently building a small waterbrake for testing engines up to 100hp. The eddy current and sensors can probably be bought off this "junk dyno" for next to nothing. The junk yard is only interested in the value for scrap thats all. How does an eddy current dyno work? Does it work on variable voltage applied? What controls should I look for to salvage? I'm going to head back to this yard tomorrow and do some dealing and see what I can work out with the owner. I was also told an additional part is coming in, I kinda figured it would be the control unit. I figured the knowledge base of this group would be able to help me save some this dyno from the scrap heap!! Thanks in advance. . . Bruce PS told ya this was hard to beleive :) There are those that have, and those that will . . . ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 21:27:11 -0500 From: Steve Gorkowski Subject: Re: NASCAR go EFI? Efi is in Nascar in short track . The 200 lap 4 cyl. Endureo (Bone stock) in Wisconsin on 1/4 mile track will let efi and stock turbo engines. They have no clue how efi system works. Steve Bruce Plecan wrote: > | <> > | So they can make a bunch of LEFT TURNS even faster? How archaic, yet that > group > | of cars is the hands down favorite amongst Americans. Yikes. Give me F1, > and FIA > | GT races and I'll be thankful. :P > > Right F1 interesting?, racing?, F1 stopped racing years ago. If there are > 2 passes the crowd goes nuts. 2 sec pit stops, wow, 2 or 3 stops for fuel > wow. > GTP, lets see Nissan for a while, then Toyota, wow. FIA-GT, haven't seen > any but from what I've read yawwwwwwwwwnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn. > When is the last time 3 F1s went thru a turn together, and all exited?. > Racing ain't been right for almost 30 years. Go back to the early can-am > days, > late 60 Trans-Am, that was some racing. > Rules for safety, ie cage material, and a spec tire. Use all stock > sheetmetal, and go race, thank you. > Random draw the ecm at the start of practice, then qualifing, and for the > race. > Then have some talent rise to the surface. > Bruce > | > | ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #335 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".