DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, June 15 1999 Volume 04 : Number 358 In this issue: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: Dual fuel PFI rails.... Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: ECU files Mazda ECU See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:45:07 -0400 From: "David A. Cooley" Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 At 07:14 PM 6/14/99 +0000, you wrote: >That's all VERY INTERESTING! > > >I was told that even if I ran TWIN t-1's that they wouldn't be enough >for the 440! > Why use T1's? that's about the smallest T trim turbo you can get... run a pair of T3 or T4's and be done with it... a single T3 feeds 231 CI just fine with minimal lag and boost to 20+ PSI at 5000 RPM a pair could surely handle 440 CI with no problems. =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:05:42 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 > What make, model, spec of turbo and turbine did ya use? On the Buick I believed I used two TE44's, which were way oversized for the small engine, dispite all the porting. This is why the power of the turbos weren't felt until radical RPMs for the OEM block, hence, why it exploded into tiny little pieces. TE44 rings a bell. The turbos for the 431 stroker B block are nothing more than junkyard "Daytona" turbos off the 2.2L engine, which gives good flow under the 4000-4200 RPM range, but max out at about that. Since I want low RPMs and massive boost, this combination worked for me. Almost 800 HP and about thte same in torque at a mere 4100 RPM. > And where'd ya get it and fer how much?? I bought two complete Daytona engines, with turbo, PCM, manifolds, etc, for $350 a pop, taking two out of there simultaniously. I sold both engines for $700 in the local paper to two seperate individuals, as "long blocks", keeping the turbos, O2 sensors from both engines just in case, and some other oddball parts that were "kewl", and will probably sit and rot in the garage with the rest of the rot. So, would that be free turbos? I think so. :) However, I spent close to 300 a pop to have them rebuilt out somewhere in Texas, through my friend's body shop who took care of it for me, with my checkbook. I can dig out the receipt next time I head up there, I'm sure its on the counter in the shoebox next to the dyno with my other stuff. > I was told that even if I ran TWIN t-1's that they wouldn't be enough > for the 440! Bullshit. Well, maybe not. That depends on your goal. If you want a low rpm torque monster, junkyard turbos can be had that will fit your needs, in a pair of course. However, if you want 20lbs of boost at 8000 RPM, you are creating a 800lb grenade :) > Whatcha think? (remember, I'll be turnin 5,500 MAX rpm so that's the > limit of the flow, with maybe MAX 15 lb.s boost, naybe leave a tad bit > room for more at a later date, all this WITH a BIG OL intercooler or two > as well!) 5500 RPM and 15lbs should be doable with two TE44's without a doubt. Its been a while since I've tortured Garrett's help line, however explain your needs, goals, and where you want your maximum boost, and by all means, garrett's shop are the nicest bunch of engineers around. However, you might considering not being a prick at that point and getting free info and shopping elsewhere :) > And ALL on from regular to 115 octane depending on the boost used.... 115 octane? Shouldn't be a problem, if you are careful. Before you blast the boost through your engine, break it in and run it to and from the RPMs that you want to see, then when you are ready to add the boost, make sure you have a "leak" in the wastegate setup, so that all the boost doesn't hammer in at once, and use a pressure gauge on the plenum post intercooler, and one before the intercooler, so you can see what's going on, and work your way up to max power. I made the mistake of not doing so on the first buick V6 I built (was a FWD 3.8L engine actually), and the motor, upon its first break in, blew up right away. Dumb-ass waste of parts, labor, and possible injury. Give the engine a chance to work in before you hammer it :) Temptation to push to the limit I assure you absolutely overwhelming. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:08:51 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Dual fuel PFI rails.... Based on your stated skillset, you might consider two seperate rails, unless you come up with something a little more clever. How about an aluminum block a few inches long, at 3/4x3/4, that's something you can put in your drill press and bore straight down. being rectangle you can use your press's vice to hold it still. Then, after your two holes are bored in for the two injectors, you can tap the end, attach a fitting, then daisy chain the rails that way. I anticipate your dual injectors run in series on the intake runner, meaning single file along the runner rail. Corrent? Barry Tisdale wrote: > Something got lost in translation here, I think. (BTW, was using my wife's account for the original message - I'm back home again). > > DUAL fuel; I'd need *two* parallel holes drilled the length of the bar. Cross-drilling the two longitidinal holes where the injectors will be placed, plugging the access opening to the outside of the rail. This results in two parallel holes, connected by cross-holes where the injectors will go. Drill the injector feeds into this hole, between the long parallel holes, so's one injector can be fed by either of the two 'logs'. One log would carry pump gas, the other, the fuel of your choice, probably avgas. Two separate circuits, tanks, pumps, regualtors, etc. It would take about 0.2 sec for the fuel transition to occur; the volume of 'old' fuel to be flushed out of the common volume before the injector saw 'new' fuel. > > Only problem is the drilling of two parallel holes in, say, a 1" x 3/4" bar, about 9" long - say, 5/16" holes & cross-drillings. Is this do-able?? > > Assembling out of tubing & welding all the fittings would be tedious, at best, and surely beyond my skills. If I had the 9" bars drilled, I could probably take it from there. > > Technically, any comments? Surely, this isn't the first time anyone has thought of this; anybody done something similar? Probably ideal is a manifold w/ 2 injectors per intake port, but this is *really* beyond my capabilities. > > Sincere thanks for any feedback - Barry ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:06:47 EDT From: ECMnut@xxx.com Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 In a message dated 6/14/99 9:28:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, atc347@xxx.net writes: > I was told that even if I ran TWIN t-1's that they wouldn't be enough > for the 440! Twin T1's ... now were talkin phone lines?. Is this a virtual 440? Just kidding. You're looking at a turbo that can feed 220 cubes (if two are used) to 5500 rpm? That should be easy. The Buicks were 231 cubes. You could prolly find OEM Buick turbos on the cheap or ?.. As F.B. stated before, high RPM is not a prerequisite for big power with a decently matched turbo setup. Make sure you have the fuel delivery requirements covered, and decent intercooling after the comprressors. You'll have more power than two street tires can hook to the ground fer sure. Mike V ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:11:11 -0500 From: Steve Ravet Subject: Re: ECU files "C. Brooks" wrote: > > Thanks Steve, I found it :) > > OK, assuming I'm able to identify a series of blocks as a table (Big > assumption :) How do I find out what type of table it is? i.e. VE fuel, > acceleration enrichment, spark advance etc... ? Eyeball it to make a guess. Then make a change and see what happens via diacom or the like. That's where Bruce's ECM testbench comes in handy. There's a description of it on the gmecm page. I don't know what ECM you're using, but before you stare at it too much, take a look at the 747 image using one of the .ecu files on the incoming site. Once you learn what the tables look like it's easier to spot them in new images. ie, see how the spark advance changes based on rpm and load. Also you might take a look at tuna, a program I wrote. It's on the ftp site as tuna.zip. It doesn't edit, but it does dump a bin to the screen in readable ascii format. The advantage to tuna IMO is it's version of the .ecu file is much more readable. It's also quick to run at the command like, and there's a Sparc version included in the .zip file :-) > > It looks like the data points in Promedit are scaled 0-255, is that for all > tables or do some tables use a different scale? Would be totally wrong to > assume that all the data points consist of three places? i.e. 001-255 (Or > whatever the scale is) Determining the scale is another mystery. Read programming 101, it talks about how the 747 converts byte data into real world units. - --steve > > Charles Brooks > > -----Original Message----- > From: steve ravet > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu> > Date: Monday, June 14, 1999 9:45 PM > Subject: Re: ECU files > > >If you get the promedit .zip file there should be a readme file in > >there. Each line describes the layout of a data table. the format of > >the line depends on whether the table is zero, one, two, or three > >dimensional. > > - -- Steve Ravet sravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, INC www.arm.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:22:10 -0700 From: mike@xxx.com (Mike DiMeco) Subject: Mazda ECU This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BEB6AB.F69E87C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Before I take out my Mazda RX-7 ECU, does anybody know=20 anything about them. I have an 86 RX-7 13B and would like to bump the timing and fuel a little. Thanks - ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BEB6AB.F69E87C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Before I take out my Mazda RX-7 ECU, does anybody = know=20
anything about them. I have an 86 RX-7 13B and would = like to=20 bump the
timing and fuel a little.
 
Thanks
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