DIY_EFI Digest Saturday, June 19 1999 Volume 04 : Number 365 In this issue: Re: low cost embedded PC's Re: Not Found RE: computer chip Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help "Sweet Spot" Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help RE: "Sweet Spot" Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help RE: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: checking L-jetronic airflow meters OT TRADE? have 749 need 747 RE: "Sweet Spot" RE: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using the same injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? Hi guys Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using the same injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using thesame injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? Rising rate regulator for Turbo engines See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 19:34:31 +1000 From: "Geoff Richards" Subject: Re: low cost embedded PC's > > So, here's my new (long term) project, the $2.00 EFI. > > Anyone interrested? Yeah I'll play but ya'll hafta teach me :) Geoff Richards ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 20:08:02 +1000 From: "Geoff Richards" Subject: Re: Not Found > Hi group > I am receiving message 'file not found' when trying to get description of > test bench > from GM-ECM page > Anyone? > Thanks > Geoff Richards > Tried again and success Don't know why Sorry Geoff Richards ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:28:40 -0400 From: "Knowlden and/or Eller" Subject: RE: computer chip Mike, I have been keeping some notes on offsets and I found this: 92 LT1 Address $0018 Description Disables VATS, subtract $10 from value of original. Bit 4 must be reset Bob Knowlden - -----Original Message----- From: owner-diy_efi@xxx.edu [mailto:owner-diy_efi@xxx.com Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 11:33 PM To: diy_efi@xxx.edu Subject: Re: computer chip Roger, The book says same ecm. does this look right from your end? 92-93 vette 5.7, same as 93 Camaro/Firebird 5.7 : 16159278 90-92 Camaro/bird 5.7 is 1227730, 16196344, 16198262 Mike V > 92 LT1 vette? > > Send me the ocmputer numbers, I believe it is the same computer that > is in my 93 Z28 LT1, and I might be able to find the vats code int it. > > If you have a prom reader and can read out the chip and send me a copy > of that chip I can see how close the 92 is to the 93. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:10:01 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 WOW, THANKS Gary, Heard of the bike SHIFTER cable being used, didn't think about the brake cable, not much diff I'm sure, will do!! I have several bikes in the back yard rustin away, most have cables such as you mentioned! Will do man! I see a TUNNEL in my future, ey? LATER! Todd....!! Gary Derian wrote: > > I go to the local discount store and get some bicycle brake cable. > Disassemble the OE throttle cable and put the bike cable in the molded end > pieces. You can make the cable as long as you want. > > Gary Derian > > >Todd....!! wrote: > > Just tryin to find a long nuff throttle cable to reach the dern carb > > once I put the thing on the engine! Any ideas? > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:53:16 -0700 From: "Todd....!!" Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help >From what I remember, and I believe I'm close to accurate... There are only two known things that reduce inductance, none of which are materials themselves, one is distance(i.e. space), the other is another EMF(electro magnetic field)(This electromagnetic field cancelation effect is used in the donut shaped electronics a lot) In other words coating a metal with plastic will not hender the inductance(Creation) of electricity... only space and/or another EMF... Right? So I must ask, from which principle are you deriving that a coated stator reduces eddy currents(or feedback currents)? Or am I just WAY off, and if so WHY am I way off.... Just wonderin......... Later.... Todd.... Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com wrote: > > The eddy current dyno uses a iron drum that rotates around an electro > magnet. Since the drum is not laminated like motor stators > eddy currents are induced into the iron very easy. A chopped DC or straight > DC voltage powers the electromagnet. The eddy currents slow the drum > producing a load and also great amounts of heat. An eddy current dyno would > make a poor motor since the magnetic losses would be very high. Great dyno > find, I wish junk yards around here were that good. > > Don > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: David Piper [SMTP:dapiper@xxx.net] > > Sent: Saturday, June 05, 1999 8:28 PM > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > Cc: brucep@xxx.net > > Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help > > > > Check w/ Mustang Dyno in Twinsburg, OH > > > > TurboDave > > > > >My question is this can the eddy current unit from this dyno be used to > > make > > >a motor dyno? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:42:50 GMT From: bob@xxx.com (Robert Harris) Subject: "Sweet Spot" This is a mechanically fixed point by a combination of mechanical factors. With influence from combustion. If you set up a series of tests such that the only thing that varied was the spark advance, and you moved it such that the pressure peak varied from 10 to 20 degrees atdc, you could probably use acceleration or hp or torque or .. to find it. Without extensive testing, it probably is not work more than 1% or so over just picking 15 to 16 degrees ( numbers that pop up in Heywood, Saab etc quite frequently ). Consistently placing the peak over a fixed point makes as much as ** practical ** without a research lab. One of the practical problems is that spark advance for mean best torque or mean best power is through a relatively broad range of 3 to 5 degrees advance. Generally set by factory or others to just a RCH ( Red C Hair ) or a tab bit retarded ( ~` 1 % power drop over peak ) to make maximum power and stay out of denotations. This relatively broad range reduces the sharpness of the point to move peak to and gives you latitude to just stick it at 16 ATDC and be done with it. Not saying there might not be some more available - just think it might severely tax most peoples resources to find it more bettor - for maybe a limited return over getting it close and consistent. >---------------------------- > >Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 22:45:16 -0500 >From: Tom Sharpe >Subject: Re: Combustion Pressure Sensor - revisited > >Can measuring crankshaft acceleration per degree dewtermine the sweet spot >and how close you are to it??? TomS > >------------------------------ > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:31:41 -0700 From: "soren" Subject: Re: Buick V-6, was Prowler V6 > > I go to the local discount store and get some bicycle brake cable. > > Disassemble the OE throttle cable and put the bike cable in the molded end > > pieces. You can make the cable as long as you want. > Heard of the bike SHIFTER cable being used, didn't think about the brake > cable, not much diff I'm sure, will do!! Brake cable is about twice the diameter of shifter cable (usually). ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:09:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Previously, you (Todd....!!) wrote: > >From what I remember, and I believe I'm close to accurate... > > There are only two known things that reduce inductance, none of which > are materials themselves, one is distance(i.e. space), the other is > another EMF(electro magnetic field)(This electromagnetic field > cancelation effect is used in the donut shaped electronics a lot) > > In other words coating a metal with plastic will not hender the > inductance(Creation) of electricity... only space and/or another EMF... > > Right? Yes but eddy currents are not magnetic, they are electric. Have you ever wondered why transformer cores are made of little plates rather then a solid chunk of iron?? Read on Mc Duff > > So I must ask, from which principle are you deriving that a coated > stator reduces eddy currents(or feedback currents)? the eddy currents are at a right angle to the change in flux, so the plastic coating between the plates stop the little whirl pool type currents picture the lines of flux going straight down ( hold your left hand in a fist thumb down), the induced current in a plate of steel will form a little swirl centered around the line of flux ( the current will circulate in the direction of your fingers). picture the plate being turned on its edge, now the whirlpool currents cant get as big. that is what is done in a transformer BUT one plate doesn't carry enough 'magnet current' so many plates are stacked. if the plates are not insulated they still carry eddy currents just not as well I've taken some liberties with what actualy happens to make visualization easier. ( and because I can't actually remember all of the fancy assed names from physics I took 15 yrs ago :) > > Or am I just WAY off, and if so WHY am I way off.... eddy currents are not magnetic beasties. > > Just wonderin......... > I hope this helps and doesn't muddy the water for you > Later.... > > Todd.... > > Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com wrote: > > > > The eddy current dyno uses a iron drum that rotates around an electro > > magnet. Since the drum is not laminated like motor stators > > eddy currents are induced into the iron very easy. A chopped DC or straight > > DC voltage powers the electromagnet. The eddy currents slow the drum > > producing a load and also great amounts of heat. An eddy current dyno would > > make a poor motor since the magnetic losses would be very high. Great dyno > > find, I wish junk yards around here were that good. > > > > Don > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: David Piper [SMTP:dapiper@xxx.net] > > > Sent: Saturday, June 05, 1999 8:28 PM > > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > > Cc: brucep@xxx.net > > > Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help > > > > > > Check w/ Mustang Dyno in Twinsburg, OH > > > > > > TurboDave > > > > > > >My question is this can the eddy current unit from this dyno be used to > > > make > > > >a motor dyno? > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:24:47 -0400 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help At 12:09 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: > > Yes but eddy currents are not magnetic, they are electric. > Have you ever wondered why transformer cores are made of little plates >rather then a solid chunk of iron?? Read on Mc Duff > >> Yes, but the two are inter-related... Changing magnetic fields induce electrical eddy currents in metals, and those eddy currents generate magnetic fields that oppose the fields that cause the electrical eddy currents. I used to demonstrate this when I worked on MRI systems... I'd take an Aluminum sign, 3/32" thick (not critical as to composition, just any non-magnetic metal works) and stand it up on edge in the bore of the MRI magnet (1 Tesla or 1.5 Tesla Superconducting magnet). and give it a tap to knock it over... It would take between 15 and 30 seconds to fall depending on which one of the 2 magnets it was in... You can also hold it and wave it like a fan in the bore of the magnet and it feels like it's under water and actually flexes and bends as you move it through the field due to the eddy current induced magnetic field in the plate (sign) that opposes the main MRI magnet's field. Later, Dave =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:38:50 -0700 From: Eric Aos Subject: RE: "Sweet Spot" > If you set up a series of tests such that the only thing that > varied was the > spark advance, and you moved it such that the pressure peak > varied from 10 to > 20 degrees atdc Just imagine for a moment though if you could change that to 73 degrees (for a 350 Chevy 3.48 stroke, and 5.7 rod) this is where leverage is maximum (90 deg between rod, and crank throw). For a 228% increase in leverage... ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:31:07 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Previously, you (David Cooley) wrote: > At 12:09 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: > > > > Yes but eddy currents are not magnetic, they are electric. > > Have you ever wondered why transformer cores are made of little plates > >rather then a solid chunk of iron?? Read on Mc Duff > > > >> > > Yes, but the two are inter-related... Changing magnetic fields induce > electrical eddy currents in metals, and those eddy currents generate > magnetic fields that oppose the fields that cause the electrical eddy currents. > > I used to demonstrate this when I worked on MRI systems... I'd take an > Aluminum sign, 3/32" thick (not critical as to composition, just any > non-magnetic metal works) and stand it up on edge in the bore of the MRI > magnet (1 Tesla or 1.5 Tesla Superconducting magnet). watch out for metal wrist matches eh? > and give it a tap to > knock it over... It would take between 15 and 30 seconds to fall depending > on which one of the 2 magnets it was in... cool, sounds like the same type of demo as the aluminum ring and an electro magnet ( you know the one where the ring floats) > You can also hold it and wave it like a fan in the bore of the magnet and > it feels like it's under water and actually flexes and bends as you move it > through the field due to the eddy current induced magnetic field in the > plate (sign) that opposes the main MRI magnet's field. > Later, > Dave I was trying to clear up the eddy current stuff to something that could easily be visualized, you are right I should have mentioned the relationship but I hit send too early. Sounds like a nice job, being able to play with big toys 8) > > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! > =========================================================== > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:56:39 -0400 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help At 01:31 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: >watch out for metal wrist matches eh? Definitely... I had an old cheap seiko that would stop while I was in the room, and after I left, I just tapped it and it started again... A patient came in with a Rolex and refused to remove it... had her sign a waiver that we weren't responsible for damages... it never moved again! > >cool, sounds like the same type of demo as the aluminum ring and an electro >magnet ( you know the one where the ring floats) Always used that to try to convince people I had magical powers... >Sounds like a nice job, being able to play with big toys 8) There's times I miss the toys... Liquid Nitrogen and Liquid Helium are fun! =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 14:00:16 -0500 From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com Subject: RE: Non-diy_efi, dyno help By laminated I ment that the motor stator is made up of several thin sheets of metal stacked on top of each other. Eddy currents are induced into each small sheet of metal instead of one large hunk of metal, this way the eddy currents are very small and you have an efficient motor. Transformers are made with multiple 'E' and 'I' core sheets of silicon steel to reduce eddy currents. Think of an eddy current dyno as a horribly in-efficient electric generator Don > -----Original Message----- > From: Todd....!! [SMTP:atc347@xxx.net] > Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 10:53 AM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help > > >From what I remember, and I believe I'm close to accurate... > > There are only two known things that reduce inductance, none of which > are materials themselves, one is distance(i.e. space), the other is > another EMF(electro magnetic field)(This electromagnetic field > cancelation effect is used in the donut shaped electronics a lot) > > In other words coating a metal with plastic will not hender the > inductance(Creation) of electricity... only space and/or another EMF... > > Right? > > So I must ask, from which principle are you deriving that a coated > stator reduces eddy currents(or feedback currents)? > > Or am I just WAY off, and if so WHY am I way off.... > > Just wonderin......... > > Later.... > > Todd.... > > Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com wrote: > > > > The eddy current dyno uses a iron drum that rotates around an electro > > magnet. Since the drum is not laminated like motor stators > > eddy currents are induced into the iron very easy. A chopped DC or > straight > > DC voltage powers the electromagnet. The eddy currents slow the drum > > producing a load and also great amounts of heat. An eddy current dyno > would > > make a poor motor since the magnetic losses would be very high. Great > dyno > > find, I wish junk yards around here were that good. > > > > Don > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: David Piper [SMTP:dapiper@xxx.net] > > > Sent: Saturday, June 05, 1999 8:28 PM > > > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > > > Cc: brucep@xxx.net > > > Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help > > > > > > Check w/ Mustang Dyno in Twinsburg, OH > > > > > > TurboDave > > > > > > >My question is this can the eddy current unit from this dyno be used > to > > > make > > > >a motor dyno? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:03:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Ford Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Previously, you (David Cooley) wrote: > At 01:31 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: > > >watch out for metal wrist matches eh? > > Definitely... I had an old cheap seiko that would stop while I was in the > room, and after I left, I just tapped it and it started again... > A patient came in with a Rolex and refused to remove it... had her sign a > waiver that we weren't responsible for damages... it never moved again! > when I was in school for commercial diving I wore a cheap timex one of the other divers had a rolex. in a simulated saturation dive when comming up his watch popped open ( air had seeped in and got trapped) so much for quality eh > > > >cool, sounds like the same type of demo as the aluminum ring and an electro > >magnet ( you know the one where the ring floats) > > Always used that to try to convince people I had magical powers... > > > >Sounds like a nice job, being able to play with big toys 8) > > There's times I miss the toys... Liquid Nitrogen and Liquid Helium are fun! did you know you can freeze a can of shaving cream (after shaking it) with liquid nitrogen, cut the can awway and it will expand as it thaws.. great practicle joke > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! > =========================================================== > - -- Pat Ford email: pford@xxx.com QNX Software Systems, Ltd. WWW: http://www.qnx.com (613) 591-0931 (voice) mail: 175 Terrence Matthews (613) 591-3579 (fax) Kanata, Ontario, Canada K2M 1W8 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:43:37 -0400 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help At 03:03 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: > did you know you can freeze a can of shaving cream (after shaking it) with >liquid nitrogen, cut the can awway and it will expand as it thaws.. Hehehe... Too Cool... My favorite was a Nitrogen Bomb... Put about a 2 inch deep layer of LN2 in the bottom of a 2 litre coke bottle and cap it and run... LN2 expands 700 times as it turns from a liquid to a gas... Heck of a boom and a big white mushroom cloud! =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:23:34 -0500 From: Clarence Wood Subject: Re: checking L-jetronic airflow meters Hi Greg and all, At last I can strut my stuff! (:> I have a 1982 280zx Turbo and had to replace my AFM. Before you go for the expense do the following: Either completely remove the AFM from the car, which makes it easier to work on, or remove the cap that covers the variable resistor and electronics; this cap is held in place by what appears to be a silicon glue, use a sharp knife and cut around the cap edge where it meets the metal then carefully pry off; if the cap lifts a little you can slip the cutting instrument under the cap and cut the holding agent. The important thing here, is that the resistance, as the air flap is opened, will go up and then go down, in other words it is not linear, so unless you have a good AFM to compare yours against you can't really determine if the resistance is correct. Once the cap is off, look for signs of wear on the carbon surface where the 'brush' rubs as the air flap is opened. If there is an obvious wear spot in the wide open area, or in any other area, you can patch this by purchasing some "Quick Grid" repair resin made by Loctite (you can get this at AutoZone or any other auto parts store, sold to repair rear defogger units on cars; its a liquid conductor made with silver; about $8.00 for a very small, .05 fl oz, 1.4ml bottle). Using a small brush, coat the worn area on the AFM; do this a couple times. At 03:29 PM 6/17/99 -0500, you wrote: >How can a Bosch L-jetronic airflow meter be checked out? Or even set to >factory specs? I have a 83 nissan turbo car that running terrible on the >top end. It's dumping so much fuel as to stall the motor. Checked all >sensors thoroughly except the flow meter. Not sure how to know if it is >set right or even reading right. Factory manuals say to just check for >continuity. I think it's based on a 5 volt refernce signal that lessens >as the airflow increases. CAn I tap into one of the lines and just >measure voltage or what? Even used meters are going for upwards of $200, >so replacement will only be done if I can tell if this one is bad. >Somebody has "been in it" already, so no telling where the spring >tension has been moved to. Any ideas or advice? >greg > > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:37:34 -0400 From: Paul Tholey Subject: OT TRADE? have 749 need 747 Hello everyone, I am sorry this is not really EFI related but I am posting it here cause I can't find a 747 TBI ecm for the life of me. I have 749 to offer in trade. any takers? please respond of list Paul Tholey pxtx@xxx.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:56:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Mark Wilcutts Subject: RE: "Sweet Spot" 'course if you did this the magnitude of the peak pressure would necessarily be lower... On Fri, 18 Jun 1999, Eric Aos wrote: > > If you set up a series of tests such that the only thing that > > varied was the > > spark advance, and you moved it such that the pressure peak > > varied from 10 to > > 20 degrees atdc > > Just imagine for a moment though if you could change that to 73 degrees > (for a 350 Chevy 3.48 stroke, and 5.7 rod) this is where leverage is > maximum (90 deg between rod, and crank throw). For a 228% increase in > leverage... > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:32:07 -0500 From: Don.F.Broadus@xxx.com Subject: RE: Non-diy_efi, dyno help Did you check out the web page where the guy lights his charcoal grill with LOX,, You have to see the quick time video to believe it. They say LOX burgers taste fine. Don > -----Original Message----- > From: David Cooley [SMTP:n5xmt@xxx.net] > Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 12:57 PM > To: diy_efi@xxx.edu > Subject: Re: Non-diy_efi, dyno help > > At 01:31 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: > > >watch out for metal wrist matches eh? > > Definitely... I had an old cheap seiko that would stop while I was in the > room, and after I left, I just tapped it and it started again... > A patient came in with a Rolex and refused to remove it... had her sign a > waiver that we weren't responsible for damages... it never moved again! > > > > >cool, sounds like the same type of demo as the aluminum ring and an > electro > >magnet ( you know the one where the ring floats) > > Always used that to try to convince people I had magical powers... > > > >Sounds like a nice job, being able to play with big toys 8) > > There's times I miss the toys... Liquid Nitrogen and Liquid Helium are > fun! > =========================================================== > David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT@xxx.net > Packet: N5XMT@xxx. Member #7068 > We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! > =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:52:14 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using the same injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? > The Blower itself, right off the diesel truck or wherever they come > from(Will find out exactly where these come from) are $100. Sold. > Rebuild kits are $75. Sold. > 1.- The carb plate that bolts onto the 'top' of the blower(In your > 'case' the SIDE of the blower, but you may not need a carb plate since > you won't be runnin carbs, RIGHT? Not necessary. Easy to make one, out of 3/4" aluminum plate, and angle the carb hole using a dremel to promote smooth airflow. Made these before. > 2.- The intake manifold to bolt the blower to the engine, you may not > need this either since you doin a funky setup... right? Nope :) > 3.- Pulleys(1 for crank, 1 for blower. Need. > 4.- Front plate for pulley setup on blower. Need. > Sounds like you may only need the front plat efor the pulleys and maybe > the pulleys? That should cover ya!! Yep ! > Todd's Blower Service - You name it we'll blow it.... Don't say that too loud, the navy boys on the list might come rushing over to your house :) > That sounds a bit faggish, must work on the motto... Most definately. :) > Fred, would you be plannin on gettin a good ol belly button 6-71 or go > all out and run the 8-71? I'd like a 6-71 for my Buick engine, and a 8-71 for my Dodge B block. > Not sure of the 8-71's are the even $100 as the 6-71's are, buddy said > the 8-71's are REALLY HUGE!! About as big as a s.b. chev! Actually, 6-71 for both would be fine. RPMs not that high. Let me know when I can order them :) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:14:14 -0400 From: pat ford Subject: Hi guys Hi All: It's me Pat Ford calling from home. Can someone email the ecm guys url? I'm stuck on a dialup line and I'm going crazy with winbloze crapping out and SSSLLOOWW download speeds. can you reply to patford@xxx.net I'm really doing to have to make a webpage ( at work) and keep my bookmarks on it Thanks and have a great weekend Pat ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:15:07 -0700 From: Ross Corrigan Subject: Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using the same injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? I missed the start of this.... so bear with me...... Are you guys talking about the 6-71 diesel blowers being used on a gas setup? If so, I ran this by the list 2-3 mos ago and heard they don't build enough pressure to be useful with gas. If these are a diff. setup please let me know as I know several guys w/ heavy equipment yards or access to them anyhow. (I asked about the blowers on Jimmy diesel/crane setups etc) thanks (PS these were $50CD or similar) At 05:52 PM 6/18/99 -0400, you wrote: >> The Blower itself, right off the diesel truck or wherever they come >> from(Will find out exactly where these come from) are $100. > >Sold. > >> Rebuild kits are $75. > >Sold. > >> 1.- The carb plate that bolts onto the 'top' of the blower(In your >> 'case' the SIDE of the blower, but you may not need a carb plate since >> you won't be runnin carbs, RIGHT? > >Not necessary. Easy to make one, out of 3/4" aluminum plate, and angle >the carb hole using a dremel to promote smooth airflow. Made these >before. > >> 2.- The intake manifold to bolt the blower to the engine, you may not >> need this either since you doin a funky setup... right? > >Nope :) > >> 3.- Pulleys(1 for crank, 1 for blower. > >Need. > >> 4.- Front plate for pulley setup on blower. > >Need. > >> Sounds like you may only need the front plat efor the pulleys and maybe >> the pulleys? That should cover ya!! > >Yep ! > >> Todd's Blower Service - You name it we'll blow it.... > >Don't say that too loud, the navy boys on the list might come rushing >over to your house :) > >> That sounds a bit faggish, must work on the motto... > >Most definately. :) > >> Fred, would you be plannin on gettin a good ol belly button 6-71 or go >> all out and run the 8-71? > >I'd like a 6-71 for my Buick engine, and a 8-71 for my Dodge B block. > >> Not sure of the 8-71's are the even $100 as the 6-71's are, buddy said >> the 8-71's are REALLY HUGE!! About as big as a s.b. chev! > >Actually, 6-71 for both would be fine. RPMs not that high. > >Let me know when I can order them :) > > Ross Corrigan / Vancouver, Canada '80 327ZX IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the straights mailto:zxv@xxx.ca *New ICQ # 11549358 http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg where a Z belongs ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 22:51:14 -0700 From: Bill Edgeworth Subject: Re: Todd's sure fire blower sale - Fred, will you be using thesame injection system off of your BIG engine(s)? Ross Corrigan wrote: > I missed the start of this.... so bear with me...... > > Are you guys talking about the 6-71 diesel blowers being used on a gas > setup? If so, I ran this by the list 2-3 mos ago and heard they don't > build enough pressure to be useful with gas. If these are a diff. setup > please let me know as I know several guys w/ heavy equipment yards or > access to them anyhow. (I asked about the blowers on Jimmy diesel/crane > setups etc) This is correct GMC blowers with stock rotors have to much clearance. All they will do is build little boost and lots of heat. This is the reason a good blower costs so much, they have precision clearanced after market rotors. In fact in applications where very high boost is used like on a blown alcohol or top fuel engine they install teflon seals on the rotor tips. Although most t/f guys now use screw type blowers not roots type, because they are so much more efficient I am no expert on the motors that these blowers come off of but from what I understand they are not used to build boost in the engine just to move air through them I think that they are actually 2 cycle diesel engines Bill Edgeworth ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 09:22:56 +0100 From: Martin Easterbrook Subject: Rising rate regulator for Turbo engines Anyone know a supplier of a good rising rate regulator? My application needs a fuel pressure of 3barg up to about 10psi boost, then fuel pressure needs to ramp up to about 6.5barg at 19psi. I've seen valves that are supposed to do this in books on turbocharging, but never seen one advertised for sale (in England). Anyone have any good/bad experience of using them? Martin mailto:martin.easterbrook@xxx.net ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #365 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".