DIY_EFI Digest Friday, August 27 1999 Volume 04 : Number 492 In this issue: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #491...valve keeper probs Re: Idiot qestions for lazy newby valve spring removal?? keeper/retainer welded together??!?! help Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #491 really small micro kernel OS called QNX Re: I'm British, please explain what it means. Peak and hold conversion See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 05:52:27 EDT From: EFISYSTEMS@xxx.com Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #491...valve keeper probs Hi Ross, First of all, forget about the gently bit....even stock retainers are chrome moly on a chev.....take a decent sized steel hammer and WHACK the corner(edge) of the retainer (repeated if neccessay) do this without the spring compressor on it and even without the air in the cylinder....you will here a difference in tone when the keepers "break loose" from the retainer....this is very common of stamped steel keepers(especially the heat treated ones) and if you plan on running high rpm alot, spend the $35.00's and get machined keepers.......as for your shims wearing through......at high rpm any spring that has a damper will wear through the shim.....you must use heat treated shims to avoid this....most machine shops don't carry them, but can order them.....if you have trouble I have plenty....hth's - -Carl Summers In a message dated 8/27/99 2:20:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@xxx.edu writes: << Date: Thu, 26 Aug 1999 22:13:27 -0700 From: Ross Corrigan Subject: help! valve retainer/keeper welded?? sbc how to separate? Not EFI but I"ve exhausted my 5 other lists on chevy's etc and have always gotten great info here so please tolerate my NC. Here's my EFI content, a spare car is coming my way so I should finally be able to build my stout sb replacement and setup my 4Di finally to enjoy the EFI benefits. Now onto my problem... Just to update since I didn't run the original q's past this list, tranny problems w/ my 700R4 led to some missed shifts and 7000rpm a few times this last Sun. night. A hardened pushrod went thru my #2 intake stamped steel rocker arm on my edelbrock performer rpm heads. ******************* question here **************** Just to update for this question, some of my valve spring shims got sheared during some valve float lately so I'm trying to R&R them all I only got one done easily before I got stuck and bought a dead blow hammer on reccomendation....... > Ross, > Use the dead blow but carefully. A small wack is all it should take. well it hasn't turned out that way... as mentioned I R&R'd the spring shims under #2 intake fairly easily and #2 exhaust wouldn't come apart, I hit it gently and then w/ more force side/side and on the top, then placed 5 shims on top of the retainer (to distribute the downforce of the compressor jaws) and hit on the top of the valve compressor tool itself, pushing the valve down in shots etc........no dice whatsoever, I even oiled it just in case (the keepers/retainer) so v. annoyed and hot/tired I figure lets see if #2E is an oddity or the norm, #4Intake goes v. easily and then #4E is same as #2E, do these exhaust ones get welded together??? FWIW, the #4Intake I replaced the valve spring shims on: the top shim was worn right thru in one spot but no sign of any pieces being sheared out. THis is probably the magnetic 'dust' I've gotten in my heads for a while I'd guess. So I'd really like to R&R all these valve spring shims but am at a loss as to how to separate the keepers/retainers on the two exhaust valves encountered so far!!! (and probably the rest) Please someone have an easy timely solution for me.....any hope that heating it would help (probably a huge no-no I assume)??? I do have a small tiger torch and a pen torch???? Or icing it??? I lose my rental car tomorrow night. Oh yeah, the good news is my oil drained w/o a smidge of metal on the drain magnet so that was the good part of this eve. thanks in advance ..... Ross Corrigan / Vancouver, Canada '80 327ZX IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the straights mailto:zxv@xxx.ca *New ICQ # 11549358 http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg where a Z belongs ------------------------------ >> ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 13:41:17 +0100 From: JMACKENZ@xxx.com Subject: Re: Idiot qestions for lazy newby Is this vehicle a Lotus Sunbeam? Best Regards James MacKenzie ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 06:21:58 -0700 From: Ross Corrigan Subject: valve spring removal?? keeper/retainer welded together??!?! help Ross Corrigan wrote. >>and hit on the top of the valve compressor tool itself, pushing the valve >>down in shots etc........no dice whatsoever, I even oiled it just in case Gary replied: >Ross, what kind of a spring compressor tool are you using? If you are >using the kind that slides under the spring coil and has a screw on top >that pushes on the retainer as it pulls on the spring coil I'd try getting >the lever style. yes I"m using the above screw type, it has unparallel length jaws that grab the spring nicely and seat quite well on top (KD Tools), recc'd by one local specialty builder but it's not working right now I guess It slides over the rocker stud and then you put the nut >on to hold it. Then you swing it over to the top of the retainer and you >pull on it to push the retainer down. When you have a tough one you can >put the piston at TDC. When the valve starts to push down it will touch >the piston then you can pull harder and the retainer will break it loose >from the keepers. Are you using air to hold the valves up? Yes, I"m using air to hold the valves up. I can turn down my air comp. regulator to 50psi or so, so I can push the valve (unseat it) it and put the piston at TDC so I can possibly 'carefully' use the piston as a brace on the bottom? As long as I have the piston near TDC, then if the valve drops when it separates (given the the valve is unseated the air might not just seal it right back up) I can just pick the valve back up after (ie. it can't drop below the guide I'd hope)? Sound feasible? Ross Corrigan / Vancouver, Canada '80 327ZX IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the straights mailto:zxv@xxx.ca *New ICQ # 11549358 http://home.iSTAR.ca/~zxv/index.shtml http://207.212.212.139/~corrigan/gearheads/pics/wheels/sirbg.jpg where a Z belongs ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 27 Aug 1999 07:39:57 -0700 From: neilaura@xxx.com Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #491 >I'm British, please explain what it means. > >Neil > >Catching hell already. > >British technology means... A clever idea, Lucased. > >Now, don't get me wrong, if I hated all things UKish, I wouldn't burned >the car within 500 miles of buying it... I think it is a bloody fine >tribute to my phenomenal patience that the car doesn't have "Bring back >the V2" stickers all over it at this point. > >I am joking! Jeeze, tough crowd... > >Hell, I just celebrated a unique event in my ownership of the car... 500 >miles of driving and only stranded once! You have been conned!!. It is a physical impossibility for a British car to be reliable for 500 miles. It was special enough that I >emailed several friends... I mean, it was BIG! An absolute first. What >makes it doubly special is that the failure was actually *cheap to fix*... >all it was was the muffler coming unglued, and $10 later the damn thing >was welded together almost perfectly except that one of the resonator >chambers had ground a hole in itself from when it hit the pavement at >70MPH (hence the leaky exhaust). This weekend I'll pull the damaged >section and get'er fixed up proper... but I'm missing my own point here. > >500 miles, and only stranded once! That is damned special. The first 2500 >miles I drove that car (I bought it used) I must have had 20 major >failures (y'know, brakes feel fine, until you reach the stoplight and then >phssss down to the floor they go... stuff like that) You have not been shown the "twin trailing boot" brake backup system. Oops sorry, that's British motorcycles. in 20 major >systems... I didn't think cars like this HAD 20 major systems. I've owned >the car for a year and a half now, and I've driven it less than 4500 >miles. Compare that to my '97 S10 that just passed 74K miles. > >So if yer gonna bust my balls, do it for the fact that my description >of how those damned carbs work was totally wrong. Well, it was part right, >except that it isn't, and the fuel regulates on the vacuum which is passed >to the diaphragm through an inside butterfly, which isn't much different >than what I said except that I was totally wrong. I had to figure all of >this out myself after I posted it just so I wouldn't feel good about >myself last night. > >Hey! WAKE UP! Yeah, you... damn, but it is hard to keep people paying >attention all the way to the end of these emails. > >Anyway, I've had a couple of very interesting responses, and I've >insulted an entire country, but I still don't have a clue... Insults don't work with the British. Whatever you say about us is quite probably true. (except the sheep rumour) > >...about what something like this typically costs. > >Am I looking at 225 UKP, 1600.00 HKD, 5.000 DM, or what? > >TIA, > Jon > > Trying to drag this conversation back on topic. Is anyone on the list experimenting, developing or just thinking about an analogue fuel injection system?. I read an old article some time ago about Chryslers early FI research. It seems they developed an analogue system that had 2 low pressure injectors. Using the ignition pulse, and a TPS they changed the pulse width of a tube type multivibrator to give a 20:1 fuel/air ratio across the engines rev range for 1 injector. Using another multivibrator, which used information from temperature and pressure sensors, the other injector was used to fine tune the mixture to 14.7:1. By all acounts this gave excellent driveability and fuel economy. Anyone ever heard of this?. Neil (Proudly British, but my deepest apologies for inflicting you with the Spice Girls) ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 00:38:41 +1000 From: Phil Lamovie Subject: really small micro kernel OS called QNX - --------------9AE869564BD0DC69AA04EC4B Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit quote from AlphaNT list There is this very cool, really small micro kernel OS called QNX. It wasrecently supposed to be the basis for the newest AmigaOS but was dumped infavor of Linux.I have seen the demos of this and it is very cool, stable, posix compliant andis a REAL TIME OS. Does this mean anything ? Could it be usefull for a peecee based management system ? See I'm really not a ludite. regards, Phil Lamovie injec@xxx.au cogito ergo zoom - --------------9AE869564BD0DC69AA04EC4B Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit quote from AlphaNT list
There is this very cool, really small micro kernel OS called QNX. It wasrecently supposed to be the basis for the newest AmigaOS but was dumped infavor of Linux.I have seen the demos of this and it is very cool, stable, posix compliant andis a REAL TIME OS. 
Does this mean anything ? Could it be usefull for a peecee based
management system ? See I'm really not a ludite.

regards,

 Phil Lamovie

 injec@xxx.au
 
     cogito ergo zoom
  - --------------9AE869564BD0DC69AA04EC4B-- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:23:57 +1000 From: Phil Lamovie Subject: Re: I'm British, please explain what it means. If that is not a worrysome question I don't know what is. In brief; If you ever have to push your motorcycle 11 miles in the rain at 3 o'clock in the morning you will find yourself with a new understanding of the phrase "Lucas Prince of Darkness " If you smile to yourself when you hear this you are probably British. If not, you probably own a late seventies Jaguar like I do. Regards Phil Lamovie injec@xxx.au cogito ergo zoom ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 28 Aug 1999 02:30:59 +1000 From: Phil Lamovie Subject: Peak and hold conversion Hi Scott et al, The solution is exceptionally simple. Purchase motorola or similar P/H chip. Drive it with original darlington output with maybe a 1k to pull it high. Total cost for 4 cylinder engine is approx. $20 AUS for two low current injectors on each of two drivers (approx. 4 amps available). All the smarts are in the chips including a 4:1 ratio of peak to hold current. End of problem. Regards Phil Lamovie injec@xxx.au cogito ergo zoom ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #492 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".