DIY_EFI Digest Tuesday, October 26 1999 Volume 04 : Number 603 In this issue: chev tpi swapping EFI conversions on an intake brainbox for a 97 5.8L Ford Re: MAF transfer function Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #601 Intake&exhaust tuning Re: DIY rev limiter Intel 8061 pinout for EEC-IV See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 06:36:45 +1000 From: leigh Subject: chev tpi swapping contact JEGS MAIL ORDER PART NO. 840-53 cost $14.95 chev tpi fuel injection swappers guide. it could help with retro fitting to your engines. phone 1.800.345.4545 leigh turner ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 17:39:38 -0400 From: Frederic Breitwieser Subject: EFI conversions on an intake > with injectors removed as the throttle body... Am I smoking crack? Nope. > Has anyone done this? Would it work? If you could burn your own > chips/reprogram the computer to compensate for changes... Would this work > on a 383 SBC? Drilling and milling an intake is much easier than I thought, you can see my mopar equivilent at http://xephic.dynip.com/dodge/383intake.htm. There is nothing stopping you from doing this to almost any intake at all. I found aluminum to be easier to machine with a drill press. As far as programming, depending on the injector drivers in the ECM, you might be able to just rewire, and use smaller injectors. Lets say your TBI has two injectors in the throttle body throat - 80lbs each at 45psi. If you go the TPI route, meaning one injector per cylinder, you would take 160lbs (80lbs @ 2 injectors) and divide by eight, and get 20lb injectors. One per cylinder. If the injector drivers of the ECM you have can support the additional load of the injectors wired in parallel, you'd be okay. You might have to figure out if the TBI system fires both injectors at the same time, or alternates them, I've seen it done both ways both OEM and aftermarket, but the theory is four injectors go to the wires for the left TBI injector, and the remaining 4 injectors go to the right TBI injector. Then, its a matter of figuring which injectors to wire to which side, based on firing order (firing before the valve opens is a good thing!). Something like that. Or, you can use a junkyard ECM from say, a camaro, firebird, monte carlo, and use a chip editing software available on DIYEFI and make your own program. A lot of us are doing that. The pictures I linked above show my converted intake, which will be managed by a bank-firing SYTY ECM (1227749 I think). Good luck. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:35:19 -0600 From: Tom McAuliffe 3392 Subject: brainbox for a 97 5.8L Ford This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_000_01BF1F39.3BDDDE3A Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I recently bought and am going to install a '97 Ford 5.8L SFI engine in my '68 Bronco. The engine came just with what's on the engine itself, no computer, ignition module, fuel pump relay, etc. Does anyone out there have a computer that would do the trick or can tell me where I can lay my hands on one? 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With DIACOM, that is pretty easy to get. Just hook up the ECM on a bench, give it lots of ref pulses for high RPM (for no max flow limiting), then feed the MAF input with the output of a 10 turn pot wiper that has the ends hooked to the +5V ref and ground. Slowly increase the voltage to the MAF input and DIACOM with report the Airflow for the input voltage. I did this once, but I don't remember where I put the data.... :-) It is here someplace, in some notebook. > I have it for the ls1(grams per second vs. frequency) If someone > knows someone at Bosch or already has this info, please email me. Scot Sealander ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:41:36 -0400 From: Ken Kelly Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #601 Paul, Don't know much about northstar/aurora, but I can answer some of your LT1 questions. 1) very little interchanges between the earlier SBC and LT1. The Block, heads, and intake don't interchange. 2) The LT1 block has provisions for a normal distributor The only thing that is missing is the whole and clamp in the intake manifold. If you use an old style computer, I would try to adapt an HEI distributor. Gm sells a carburator style intake manifold for use with the LT1 crate engine. It allows the use of an HEI distributor. 3) If you do want to try to play with the LT1 PCM I have found all the tables in the 94-95 PCM. Ken > > Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:47:23 -0400 > From: Paul Tholey > Subject: GM Northstar/ (NOARCH SBC LT1 stuff for sale)/ LT1 730 controlled? > > > TOPIC CHANGE > > I am seeing a bunch of talk on SBC stuff. If it is helpful, I have a bunch > of cop car LT1 stuff for sale. I am not an expert on LT1 vs traditional > SBC fit, but a deal is a deal. > > I have a 1996 LT1 for sale for $600; it has everything except the alt, A/C > compressor, and electric air pump. The motor has a slight rod knock, I > head it run, and the mileage is 71,XXX. I live in the suburbs of > Philadelphia, PA. > > I have a bunch of other LT1 motors that are hurt. Bad blocks, rods, cranks > etc. If anyone could use stuff like the injection systems (intake, TB, > injectors fuel rail, MAP sensor), iron LT1/Vortec heads, roller lifters and > cams, let me know. I am just throwing out stuff off the top of my head. I > think the heads and intake together are worth $200. > > Does anyone even know how much of the LT1 stuff can be easily adapted to a > traditional SBC? > > EFI CONTENT (Finally) > > I do not currently have a PCM for the LT1 stuff. I was thinking about > using a 730 ecm. The only thing I see as an obstacle is the distributor. > I know the LT1 sees something like 360 pulses per 360 degree rotation, > while the 730 ecm can only read (again, I am going off the top of my head) > like 12 pulses per 360 degree rotation. I will have to check my notes on > that. > > I am sorry for the ramblings, but I hope I am not the only one who will > benefit from this discussion. > > Best regards, > > Paul Tholey ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 22:03:59 -0400 From: "Clare Snyder" Subject: Intake&exhaust tuning Not strictly EFI, but since I wish to inject this little fellow and need to fet the tuning soeted out first, it is EFI related. On a 4 cyl opposed engine with siamesed intake and exhaust (Soob EA81) what is involved in calculating the best intake runner lengths and exhaust tube size, length, and crossover. The exhaust opens 60 bbdc and closes 20 abdc Intake opens 20btdc and closes 60 atdc. Need max HP at about 4800 RPM. Now for the fly in the ointment. The firing order is such that the 2 siamesed cyls fire sequentially, and banks alternately, so each exhaust sees pop - pop - hush - hush, and each intake sees suck - suck - rest - rest. What is the best approach to tuning this system? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:24:14 -0400 From: "Matt Beaubien" Subject: Re: DIY rev limiter William, > It is difficult to build an ignition based rev limiter for an RX-7 because > of the dual ignition system. There's nothing quite like a good challenge ;-). > There should be only one distributor on an RX-7. Earlier Mazda cars had > two, but the RX-7 should have one that has two sets of points in it. Fair enough. I was just going by what my friend had said. So is there a dual prong rotor that fires one set of plugs, rotates a bit, and then fires the second pair? > Backfires (actually afterburn - fire in the exhaust) is okay. Especially > in a racing series. Scare your opponents, amaze your friends. What about blowing exhaust systems off? > The bad news is that either ignition is enough on its own to ignite the > fuel and allow you to overrev the engine. You have to cut both ignition > systems. Anyway, why do you need a rev limiter? The redline on the RX-7 > is only there to give some color to the tachometer. I have overrevved my > 1st generation RX-7 all the way to 8500 RPM without damage. (don't make a > habit of that. :} ) Wouldn't it loose a fair bit of power with only one set firing? My friend said that people were revving the cars too much and reliability was becoming a factor. Buzzing your street occasionally to 8500 RPM may be ok but when it's done lap after lap for extended periods of time, things fail. The goal is to keep the cost down (ie. relatively stock, used engines) and failures just deter people. Also, these cars will be run on frozen lakes in the near future. Even with studs, traction can be lost quite easily which spins the engine to the moon. If both points need to be cut, so be it. It'd be nice if it was gentler than that so maybe every other revolution could be interrupted? Nonetheless, does anyone have any ideas/suggestions. Thanks. Matt Beaubien ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 07:46:02 +0100 From: "Kapocs Attila" Subject: Intel 8061 pinout for EEC-IV Dear Members, I would like to know the pinout for the Intel 8061 microcontroller used in Ford EEC-IV ECUs. Intel refused to give me any information regarding this component (this is only for Ford). So if you can help, please send me some information. Sincerely Attila Kapocs ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #603 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".