DIY_EFI Digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 04 : Number 619 In this issue: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617 Re: Small block Chrysler V8's Tach's & injector timing RE: Dyno tach generator See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:45 +1100 From: "Daniel Phillips" Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gidday All, I am considering building myself a street rod version of a 1962 Chrysler = Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I understand was also = sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to Australia = to be built in right hand Drive. It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. As this is not really = all that quick by modern standards, I was considering re-fitting a later = chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting electronic = fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator = 500 to 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. = In the smaller body chrysler, with a getrag or A904 or A727 = torqueflight gearbox & a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should = move off the mark rather nicely. After doing some reading, I have not found any after market EFI kits for = this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we stopped building = Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection units = exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and = who would best be able to advise setting them up properly?=20 Kind regards Daniel Phillips Sydney, Australia - ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gidday All,
 
I am considering building myself a street rod = version of a=20 1962 Chrysler Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I = understand was=20 also sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to = Australia to=20 be built in right hand Drive.
It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. = As this is=20 not really all that quick by modern standards, I was considering = re-fitting a=20 later chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting = electronic=20 fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator = 500 to=20 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. In the = smaller=20 body chrysler, with a getrag  or A904 or A727 torqueflight=20 gearbox & a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should move = off the=20 mark rather nicely.
 
After doing some reading, I have not found any after = market=20 EFI kits for this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we = stopped=20 building Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection = units=20 exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and = who=20 would best be able to advise setting them up properly?
 
Kind regards
 
Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia
- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:49:57 -0500 From: Todd Israels Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617 >Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:40:56 -0500 >From: brucep@xxx.net >Subject: non-DFI tach question > >I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find any info that was >of any use on this subject so I am turning to the "minds" of this group. > >I am building a steady state dyno and need to add a tach to it. I want to >measure the shaft speed of the dyno. (I don't want to read the engine >ignition) I can't afford a digital tach setup so I am looking to use a >analog 4 cylinder tach I have laying around till I can afford to upgrade. >What would be the easiest way to make this work? Does the tach sense the >drop of the ground when the points open. Could I use parts from a GM 4 >cylinder HEI coil ie: coil pickup and ignition module. I think I am headed >in the right direction just need some advice on different ways I could do >this. Ideally I would like to have a digital display which would allow me to >have a more realistic reading of rpm's as opposed to well it looks like it >is 2000 not 2010, 2020 or 2050. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And >sorry for taking up bandwidth for the non-dfi post but this was my last >place to ask . . . thanks in advance. > >Bruce > >------------------------------ You can use a small bit of reflective tape and a photo diode. send the output of this to a frequency counter. The Fluke automotive meter manual describes this well, but this feature is available on cheaper meters or use a PIC microcontroler to drive a display and do any calculations required. Best of luck Todd Israels ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100 From: "Daniel Phillips" Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gidday Folks, Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play with's US equivalent = is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and was a 225 = cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie built = gutless wonder engine.=20 We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian built Hemi six-pack) = that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car in = Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over = 300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest = camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in = good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a = bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that = it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me I would much = appreciate it. Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on souping up Chryslers - = partcularly small block V8's? Best Wishes Daniel Phillips Sydney, Australia - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gidday Folks,
 
Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play = with's US=20 equivalent is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and = was a=20 225 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie = built=20 gutless wonder engine.
 
We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian = built Hemi=20 six-pack) that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car = in=20 Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over = 300=20 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest = camshaft=20 this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in good nick, = however,=20 is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a bitch. I do not know if = this=20 motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that it was only produced locally. = If=20 anyone can tell me I would much appreciate it.
 
Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on = souping up=20 Chryslers - partcularly small block V8's?
 
Best Wishes
 
Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia
- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240-- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:39:32 -0800 From: "Rod. Hiorns" Subject: Tach's & injector timing Hi, all Just got on the list. Nice to see what's going on. I design electronics, so apologies if I seem to rely on them too much ... A simple way of changing 6 or 8 pulse systems into 4 pulse systems is to use a phase locked loop with a counter ("divider") to set the ratios you want. This is particularly easy with cheap CMOS 4000 series chips which can run off 5-18v (good for autos, but maybe not trucks). Try the 4046A for the PLL (all in one chip) and a dual 4 bit counter to set the ratios (one in the feedback path and one on the input). I guess an optional input divider of 2 or 4, and feedback divider of 2 or 3, will cover 4, 6 & 8 cylinder engines, but it's pretty easy to choose ratios for more cylinders. The problem you run into is that you have to make a compromise between how quickly it'll respond, and how steady the final readout is, and this brings us neatly to designing a high accuracy digital tach for a dyno shaft. To get high accuracy on the dyno shaft, you want a lot of pulses per revolution so you can avoid too much smoothing which forces your readout to take ages to settle. This just means having many contacts/magnets/marks on the shaft for your electrical/hall-effect/optical reader. I've had great success canibalising the wheel and slotted UV opto-switch from inside an old (dead) computer mouse (although it took me ages to start with to get rid of 60Hz clocking ... had to build a box round it so the flourescent lights didn't interfere ... I guess sunlight may cause missed pulses too). You can chuck the output through a F-V converter, but a neat, flexible solution is to use a PIC microcontroller (they're amazingly cheap too). Use the event counter to time periods of the system clock and then take the reciprocal to get the frequency (algorithm in the PIC handbook) which needs scaling depending on your pickup system. I like this solution cause I can drive a digital display using the same chip ... no need to lock up my voltmeter which I invariably want for something else! The same system can also be used with a different program for dwell metering, although I noticed more readout 'wobble' with this. Perhaps if you're really concerned you could put some filtering into the program to get it down to the last Hz or degree. Hope these few thoughts help. While I'm here could I ask how to work out when injectors should be fired? When the inlet port opens seems too early; mid 'inrush' would make sense to me for best mixing (but it's rpm dependant: I'm using long inlet runners to boost lower rpm torque) ... and is there a recognised best way of getting past the 'stumble' as I changeover from sequential to batch firing? Any views appreciated. Rod ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:06:38 -0000 From: "Rich M" Subject: RE: Dyno tach generator >Have a look at frequency to voltage converters. Don't know who >makes them, but >it shouldn't take long to find a datasheet. I'm not sure how >accurate they can >be, but you should be able to hook one up with a multimeter as a >display, or >use the movement in the tach if it is accurate enough. >A friend of mine put such a circuit into his misbehaving period >tach. Looks >completely original from the outside, but reads far more >accuratly. LM2907 or LM2917 from National Semiconductors. Linearity typically 0.3%. You get to trade off output ripple variation against speed of response/settling time. I've used them for both retrofit to moving coil tach and for digital display, both work fine. Rich ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".