DIY_EFI Digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 04 : Number 620 In this issue: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 06:29:15 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 > >Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100 >From: "Daniel Phillips" >Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's > >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. > >- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240 >Content-Type: text/plain; > charset="iso-8859-1" >Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable > >Gidday Folks, > >Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play with's US equivalent = >is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and was a 225 = >cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie built = >gutless wonder engine.=20 > >We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian built Hemi six-pack) = >that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car in = >Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over = >300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest = >camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in = >good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a = >bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that = >it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me I would much = >appreciate it. > >Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on souping up Chryslers - = >partcularly small block V8's? > >Best Wishes > >Daniel Phillips >Sydney, Australia Hi Dan-- First off, if you are going to mess with swapping in a Mopar "A" block, I would suggest you try to round up a 360 rather than a 340 or a 318. As for heads, the good (W-2) 340 heads from the late '60's are just about unobtanium here. Other than a set of those, you are really better off to go with aftermarket heads, which are easily and economically available here--don't know your situation in that regard in Oz, though. There are definitely factory injection set-ups for the 360 available over here, at LEAST TBI type stuff. BUT--I rather doubt that any of them are a good match for any of the decent flowing heads. A call or e-mail to "Mopar Performance" might be of great worth to you in sorting out the details as to what is out there in this regard and what works well. If you are not after quite the level of performance I am implying with these leads, there is an outfit over here called Clifford Performance who make all sorts of performance goodies for Detroit's in line engines, including the 225 slant six. Their stuff could easily wake up your existing 225 six to where it runs as well as a normal cooking variety 318 or 340!! This might be a far more economical and less labor intensive approach if that is all the more power you are after! Headers, a cam, a bit more compression, a bit of head work, and a four-barrel intake with perhaps a Holley four-barrel digital Pro-Jection could make for a 225-6 that would get your attention pretty effectively! Regards, Greg ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 07:48:25 -0600 From: Jim Brandon Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF2602.19F8C6AC Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Yes the factory still builds the LA Chrysler engine, in trucks, and it is equipped with fuel injection from the factory. Throttle body on standard and port injection on magnum engines. The magnum engine is the hot set-up but the heads are different from older engines. The Mopar performance division sells the magnum engine as a crate motor. I am considering building a twin turbo, efi 66 barracuda using a 360 magnum truck engine. The engine assembly will bolt into older cars with no problem. You should be able to locate all the components at a salvage yard and have them shipped. - -----Original Message----- From: DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@xxx.edu [mailto:DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@xxx.edu] Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:00 AM To: DIY_EFI-Digest@xxx.edu Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 DIY_EFI Digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 04 : Number 619 In this issue: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617 Re: Small block Chrysler V8's Tach's & injector timing RE: Dyno tach generator See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:45 +1100 From: "Daniel Phillips" Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - - ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gidday All, I am considering building myself a street rod version of a 1962 Chrysler = Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I understand was also = sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to Australia = to be built in right hand Drive. It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. As this is not really = all that quick by modern standards, I was considering re-fitting a later = chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting electronic = fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator = 500 to 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. = In the smaller body chrysler, with a getrag or A904 or A727 = torqueflight gearbox & a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should = move off the mark rather nicely. After doing some reading, I have not found any after market EFI kits for = this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we stopped building = Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection units = exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and = who would best be able to advise setting them up properly?=20 Kind regards Daniel Phillips Sydney, Australia - - ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gidday All,
 
I am considering building myself a street rod = version of a=20 1962 Chrysler Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I = understand was=20 also sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were imported to = Australia to=20 be built in right hand Drive.
It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. = As this is=20 not really all that quick by modern standards, I was considering = re-fitting a=20 later chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, and fitting = electronic=20 fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller capacity Predator = 500 to=20 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a supercharger. In the = smaller=20 body chrysler, with a getrag  or A904 or A727 torqueflight=20 gearbox & a ford 9" LSD backing it up, she really should move = off the=20 mark rather nicely.
 
After doing some reading, I have not found any after = market=20 EFI kits for this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately we = stopped=20 building Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic fuel injection = units=20 exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where can I get them, and = who=20 would best be able to advise setting them up properly?
 
Kind regards
 
Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia
- - ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0-- - ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:49:57 -0500 From: Todd Israels Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617 >Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:40:56 -0500 >From: brucep@xxx.net >Subject: non-DFI tach question > >I've searched high and low and haven't been able to find any info that was >of any use on this subject so I am turning to the "minds" of this group. > >I am building a steady state dyno and need to add a tach to it. I want to >measure the shaft speed of the dyno. (I don't want to read the engine >ignition) I can't afford a digital tach setup so I am looking to use a >analog 4 cylinder tach I have laying around till I can afford to upgrade. >What would be the easiest way to make this work? Does the tach sense the >drop of the ground when the points open. Could I use parts from a GM 4 >cylinder HEI coil ie: coil pickup and ignition module. I think I am headed >in the right direction just need some advice on different ways I could do >this. Ideally I would like to have a digital display which would allow me to >have a more realistic reading of rpm's as opposed to well it looks like it >is 2000 not 2010, 2020 or 2050. Any help would be greatly appreciated. And >sorry for taking up bandwidth for the non-dfi post but this was my last >place to ask . . . thanks in advance. > >Bruce > >------------------------------ You can use a small bit of reflective tape and a photo diode. send the output of this to a frequency counter. The Fluke automotive meter manual describes this well, but this feature is available on cheaper meters or use a PIC microcontroler to drive a display and do any calculations required. Best of luck Todd Israels - ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100 From: "Daniel Phillips" Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Gidday Folks, Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play with's US equivalent = is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and was a 225 = cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie built = gutless wonder engine.=20 We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian built Hemi six-pack) = that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car in = Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over = 300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest = camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in = good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a = bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that = it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me I would much = appreciate it. Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on souping up Chryslers - = partcularly small block V8's? Best Wishes Daniel Phillips Sydney, Australia - - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gidday Folks,
 
Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play = with's US=20 equivalent is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in '59, and = was a=20 225 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with another Aussie = built=20 gutless wonder engine.
 
We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian = built Hemi=20 six-pack) that powered what was the quickest accelerating production car = in=20 Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, that turned out over = 300=20 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs and the wildest = camshaft=20 this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on one in good nick, = however,=20 is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a bitch. I do not know if = this=20 motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that it was only produced locally. = If=20 anyone can tell me I would much appreciate it.
 
Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on = souping up=20 Chryslers - partcularly small block V8's?
 
Best Wishes
 
Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia
- - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240-- - ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:39:32 -0800 From: "Rod. Hiorns" Subject: Tach's & injector timing Hi, all Just got on the list. Nice to see what's going on. I design electronics, so apologies if I seem to rely on them too much ... A simple way of changing 6 or 8 pulse systems into 4 pulse systems is to use a phase locked loop with a counter ("divider") to set the ratios you want. This is particularly easy with cheap CMOS 4000 series chips which can run off 5-18v (good for autos, but maybe not trucks). Try the 4046A for the PLL (all in one chip) and a dual 4 bit counter to set the ratios (one in the feedback path and one on the input). I guess an optional input divider of 2 or 4, and feedback divider of 2 or 3, will cover 4, 6 & 8 cylinder engines, but it's pretty easy to choose ratios for more cylinders. The problem you run into is that you have to make a compromise between how quickly it'll respond, and how steady the final readout is, and this brings us neatly to designing a high accuracy digital tach for a dyno shaft. To get high accuracy on the dyno shaft, you want a lot of pulses per revolution so you can avoid too much smoothing which forces your readout to take ages to settle. This just means having many contacts/magnets/marks on the shaft for your electrical/hall-effect/optical reader. I've had great success canibalising the wheel and slotted UV opto-switch from inside an old (dead) computer mouse (although it took me ages to start with to get rid of 60Hz clocking ... had to build a box round it so the flourescent lights didn't interfere ... I guess sunlight may cause missed pulses too). You can chuck the output through a F-V converter, but a neat, flexible solution is to use a PIC microcontroller (they're amazingly cheap too). Use the event counter to time periods of the system clock and then take the reciprocal to get the frequency (algorithm in the PIC handbook) which needs scaling depending on your pickup system. I like this solution cause I can drive a digital display using the same chip ... no need to lock up my voltmeter which I invariably want for something else! The same system can also be used with a different program for dwell metering, although I noticed more readout 'wobble' with this. Perhaps if you're really concerned you could put some filtering into the program to get it down to the last Hz or degree. Hope these few thoughts help. While I'm here could I ask how to work out when injectors should be fired? When the inlet port opens seems too early; mid 'inrush' would make sense to me for best mixing (but it's rpm dependant: I'm using long inlet runners to boost lower rpm torque) ... and is there a recognised best way of getting past the 'stumble' as I changeover from sequential to batch firing? Any views appreciated. Rod - ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:06:38 -0000 From: "Rich M" Subject: RE: Dyno tach generator >Have a look at frequency to voltage converters. Don't know who >makes them, but >it shouldn't take long to find a datasheet. I'm not sure how >accurate they can >be, but you should be able to hook one up with a multimeter as a >display, or >use the movement in the tach if it is accurate enough. >A friend of mine put such a circuit into his misbehaving period >tach. Looks >completely original from the outside, but reads far more >accuratly. LM2907 or LM2917 from National Semiconductors. Linearity typically 0.3%. You get to trade off output ripple variation against speed of response/settling time. I've used them for both retrofit to moving coil tach and for digital display, both work fine. Rich - ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi". - ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF2602.19F8C6AC Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619

Yes the factory still builds the LA Chrysler engine, = in trucks, and it is equipped with fuel injection from the = factory.  Throttle body on standard and port injection on magnum = engines.  The magnum engine is the hot set-up but the heads are = different from older engines.  The Mopar performance division = sells the magnum engine as a crate motor.  I am considering = building a twin turbo, efi 66 barracuda using a 360 magnum truck = engine.  The engine assembly will bolt into older cars with no = problem.  You should be able to locate all the components at a = salvage yard and have them shipped.

-----Original Message-----
From: = DIY_EFI-Digest-Owner@xxx.edu
[mailto:DI= Y_EFI-Digest-Owner@xxx.edu]
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 1999 4:00 AM
To: DIY_EFI-Digest@xxx.edu
Subject: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #619



DIY_EFI Digest       = Wednesday, November 3 1999       Volume = 04 : Number 619



In this issue:

        Re: Small = block Chrysler V8's
        Re: = DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617
        Re: Small = block Chrysler V8's
        Tach's = & injector timing
        RE: Dyno = tach generator

See the end of the digest for information on = subscribing to the
DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists.

---------------------------------------------------------------= - -------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:40:45 +1100
From: "Daniel Phillips" = <thylcine@xxx.au>
Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Gidday All,

I am considering building myself a street rod version = of a 1962 Chrysler =3D
Valiant R or S series. This was a 'compact' that I = understand was also =3D
sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies were = imported to Australia =3D
to be built in right hand Drive.
It originally had a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. = As this is not really =3D
all that quick by modern standards, I was = considering re-fitting a later =3D
chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch motor, = and fitting electronic =3D
fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller = capacity Predator =3D
500 to 700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor = with a supercharger. =3D
In the smaller body chrysler, with a getrag  or = A904 or A727 =3D
torqueflight gearbox & a ford 9" LSD = backing it up, she really should =3D
move off the mark rather nicely.

After doing some reading, I have not found any after = market EFI kits for =3D
this kind of motor here in Australia. Unfortunately = we stopped building =3D
Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do electronic = fuel injection units =3D
exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where = can I get them, and =3D
who would best be able to advise setting them up = properly?=3D20

Kind regards

Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0
Content-Type: text/html;
        charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 = Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D3D"text/html; = charset=3D3Diso-8859-1" =3D
http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D3D"MSHTML = 5.00.2721.2900" name=3D3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Gidday = All,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>I am considering = building myself a street rod =3D
version of a=3D20
1962 Chrysler Valiant R or S series. This was a = 'compact' that I =3D
understand was=3D20
also sold in the US and in Canada, and the bodies = were imported to =3D
Australia to=3D20
be built in right hand = Drive.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>It originally had = a slant 6, 215 cubic inch motor. =3D
As this is=3D20
not really all that quick by modern standards, I was = considering =3D
re-fitting a=3D20
later chrysler small block 318 or 340 cubic inch = motor, and fitting =3D
electronic=3D20
fuel injection, in preference to a Holley or smaller = capacity Predator =3D
500 to=3D20
700 cfm carburettor, and fitting the motor with a = supercharger. In the =3D
smaller=3D20
body chrysler, with a getrag&nbsp; or A904 or = A727 torqueflight=3D20
gearbox&nbsp;&amp; a ford 9" LSD = backing it up, she really should move =3D
off the=3D20
mark rather nicely.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>After doing some = reading, I have not found any after =3D
market=3D20
EFI kits for this kind of motor here in Australia. = Unfortunately we =3D
stopped=3D20
building Chryslers here in the late 1980's. Do = electronic fuel injection =3D
units=3D20
exist for small block V8 chryslers, and if so, where = can I get them, and =3D
who=3D20
would best be able to advise setting them up = properly? </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Kind = regards</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Daniel = Phillips</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Sydney, = Australia</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_000B_01BF25E7.E23EC1E0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:49:57 -0500
From: Todd Israels <israels@xxx.net>
Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V4 #617

>Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 22:40:56 -0500
>From: brucep@xxx.net
>Subject: non-DFI tach question
>
>I've searched high and low and haven't been able = to find any info that was
>of any use on this subject so I am turning to = the "minds" of this group.
>
>I am building a steady state dyno and need to = add a tach to it. I want to
>measure the shaft speed of the dyno. (I don't = want to read the engine
>ignition) I can't afford a digital tach setup so = I am looking to use a
>analog 4 cylinder tach I have laying around till = I can afford to upgrade.
>What would be the easiest way to make this work? = Does the tach sense the
>drop of the ground when the points open. Could I = use parts from a GM 4
>cylinder HEI coil ie: coil pickup and ignition = module. I think I am headed
>in the right direction just need some advice on = different ways I could do
>this. Ideally I would like to have a digital = display which would allow me to
>have a more realistic reading of rpm's as = opposed to well it looks like it
>is 2000 not 2010, 2020 or 2050. Any help would = be greatly appreciated. And
>sorry for taking up bandwidth for the non-dfi = post but this was my last
>place to ask . . . thanks in advance.
>
>Bruce
>
>------------------------------


You can use a small bit of reflective tape and a = photo diode.  send the
output of this to a  frequency counter.  = The Fluke automotive meter manual
describes this well, but this feature is available = on cheaper meters or use
a PIC microcontroler to drive a display and do any = calculations required. 
Best of luck
        =         =         Todd = Israels

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 11:05:48 +1100
From: "Daniel Phillips" = <thylcine@xxx.au>
Subject: Re: Small block Chrysler V8's

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Gidday Folks,

Just to clarify, the chrysler that I want to play = with's US equivalent =3D
is the Plymouth Valiant, which started production in = '59, and was a 225 =3D
cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine with = another Aussie built =3D
gutless wonder engine.=3D20

We did have a very quick straight 6 (the Australian = built Hemi six-pack) =3D
that powered what was the quickest accelerating = production car in =3D
Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, = that turned out over =3D
300 bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto = carbs and the wildest =3D
camshaft this side of the Black stump. Getting one's = hands on one in =3D
good nick, however, is not easy, and keeping it = tuned properly is a =3D
bitch. I do not know if this motor had a US = equivalent - I suspect that =3D
it was only produced locally. If anyone can tell me = I would much =3D
appreciate it.

Can anyone suggest any good sites for infor on = souping up Chryslers - =3D
partcularly small block V8's?

Best Wishes

Daniel Phillips
Sydney, Australia

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240
Content-Type: text/html;
        charset=3D"iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 = Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D3D"text/html; = charset=3D3Diso-8859-1" =3D
http-equiv=3D3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D3D"MSHTML = 5.00.2721.2900" name=3D3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Gidday = Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Just to clarify, = the chrysler that I want to play =3D
with's US=3D20
equivalent is the Plymouth Valiant, which started = production in '59, and =3D
was a=3D20
225 cubic inch slant 6. I was confusing the engine = with another Aussie =3D
built=3D20
gutless wonder engine. = </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT = size=3D3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>We did have a very = quick straight 6 (the Australian =3D
built Hemi=3D20
six-pack) that powered what was the quickest = accelerating production car =3D
in=3D20
Australia, in the Chrysler Charger 1972 model E-49, = that turned out over =3D
300=3D20
bhp. It had hemispheric heads, triple dellorto carbs = and the wildest =3D
camshaft=3D20
this side of the Black stump. Getting one's hands on = one in good nick, =3D
however,=3D20
is not easy, and keeping it tuned properly is a = bitch. I do not know if =3D
this=3D20
motor had a US equivalent - I suspect that it was = only produced locally. =3D
If=3D20
anyone can tell me I would much appreciate = it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Can anyone suggest = any good sites for infor on =3D
souping up=3D20
Chryslers - partcularly small block = V8's?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Best = Wishes</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Daniel = Phillips</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3D2>Sydney, = Australia</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- = - ------=3D_NextPart_000_0014_01BF25EB.62746240--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:39:32 -0800
From: "Rod. Hiorns" = <R.E.Hiorns@xxx.org>
Subject: Tach's & injector timing

Hi, all

Just got on the list. Nice to see what's going on. I = design electronics, so
apologies if I seem to rely on them too much = ...

A simple way of changing 6 or 8 pulse systems into 4 = pulse systems is to
use a phase locked loop with a counter = ("divider") to set the ratios you
want. This is particularly easy with cheap CMOS 4000 = series chips which can
run off 5-18v (good for autos, but maybe not = trucks).

Try the 4046A for the PLL (all in one chip) and a = dual 4 bit counter to set
the ratios (one in the feedback path and one on the = input). I guess an
optional input divider of 2 or 4, and feedback = divider of 2 or 3, will
cover 4, 6 & 8 cylinder engines, but it's pretty = easy to choose ratios for
more cylinders. The problem you run into is that you = have to make a
compromise between how quickly it'll respond, and = how steady the final
readout is, and this brings us neatly to designing a = high accuracy digital
tach for a dyno shaft.

To get high accuracy on the dyno shaft, you want a = lot of pulses per
revolution so you can avoid too much smoothing which = forces your readout to
take ages to settle. This just means having many = contacts/magnets/marks on
the shaft for your electrical/hall-effect/optical = reader. I've had great
success canibalising the wheel and slotted UV = opto-switch from inside an
old (dead) computer mouse (although it took me ages = to start with to get
rid of 60Hz clocking ... had to build a box round it = so the flourescent
lights didn't interfere ... I guess sunlight may = cause missed pulses too).
You can chuck the output through a F-V converter, = but a neat, flexible
solution is to use a PIC microcontroller (they're = amazingly cheap too). Use
the event counter to time periods of the system = clock and then take the
reciprocal to get the frequency (algorithm in the = PIC handbook) which needs
scaling depending on your pickup system. I like this = solution cause I can
drive a digital display using the same chip ... no = need to lock up my
voltmeter which I invariably want for something = else! The same system can
also be used with a different program for dwell = metering, although I
noticed more readout 'wobble' with this. Perhaps if = you're really concerned
you could put some filtering into the program to get = it down to the last Hz
or degree.

Hope these few thoughts help. While I'm here could I = ask how to work out
when injectors should be fired? When the inlet port = opens seems too early;
mid 'inrush' would make sense to me for best mixing = (but it's rpm
dependant: I'm using long inlet runners to boost = lower rpm torque) ... and
is there a recognised best way of getting past the = 'stumble' as I
changeover from sequential to batch firing? Any = views appreciated.

Rod

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:06:38 -0000
From: "Rich M" = <rsrich@xxx.net>
Subject: RE: Dyno tach generator

>Have a look at frequency to voltage converters. = Don't know who
>makes them, but
>it shouldn't take long to find a datasheet. I'm = not sure how
>accurate they can
>be, but you should be able to hook one up with a = multimeter as a >display,
or
>use the movement in the tach if it is accurate = enough.

>A friend of mine put such a circuit into his = misbehaving period
>tach. Looks
>completely original from the outside, but reads = far more
>accuratly.

LM2907 or LM2917 from National Semiconductors.
Linearity typically 0.3%. You get to trade off = output ripple variation
against speed of response/settling time.

I've used them for both retrofit to moving coil tach = and for digital
display, both work fine.

Rich

------------------------------

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