DIY_EFI Digest Thursday, January 27 2000 Volume 05 : Number 040 In this issue: Re: Archives Re: generic software Re: Water Injection water/alcohol injection Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39,toyota o2 Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39,toyota o2 RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39 Dave Morrills O2 meter? Water Inj, T. Retard story Re: Holley Projection 2D [long] Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter =?iso-8859-1?Q?Tim_Drury's_site=3F=BF=3F?= EFI332 Archives Re: Holley Projection 2D [long] Re: Dave Morrills O2 meter? basic tuning Re: basic tuning Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents) Re: Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents) Re: water/alcohol injection See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:02:59 -0600 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: Archives Actually I deleted the bad DIYEFI archive and renamed the good one to: DIY_EFIArchives.zip - --steve "Robert W. Hughes" wrote: > > There are a pair of files on incoming for now called GM_ECMArchives.zip > and GoodDIY_EFIArchives.zip. These are the referenced archives with > headers and quotes (as indicated by > or|) removed. There is a separator > between each message "-<><>....." and a three line header: > $Date: date information > $Subject: subject information > $From: sender > > -- > Robert W. Hughes (Bob) > BackYard Engineering > 29:40.237N, 95:28.726W > Houston, Texas > rwhughe@xxx.net > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 08:21:23 -0600 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: generic software winbin, promedit are both available on the ftp site (ftp.diy-efi.org). The catch is you have to tell the software where the tables are in the image. For some ECMs there are .ecu files with this info, for others you have to figure it out. Also look at www.tunercat.com for some shareware. - --steve Diego Martin Monteverde wrote: > > Hello, > > I'm wondering if there is in the diy_efi ftp server any free generic > software able to show/graph the contents of an EPROM. > If somebody knows, thanks in advance > > Martin > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com Advanced Risc Machines, Inc. www.arm.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:41:27 -0500 (EST) From: J W Hodgson Subject: Re: Water Injection Another great reference on water injection is in Obert's "Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution". He shows basically that the beneficial effect of water injection is to suppress knock and if it is used on an engine that is not knocking it has no beneficial effect (unless it allows more spark timing that results in greater torque). Water injection is very effective in reducing NOx emissions (as is the addition of any diluent). - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 07:29:28 -0800 From: Laura & Neil Subject: water/alcohol injection > | OK, here are my references on water injection: > IThere is some really nice water injection data in A. R. Rogowski's > | textbook "Elements of Internal Combustion Engines", McGraw-Hill, 1953, > | ISBN 07-053575-2, pages 106-109 (unfortunately out of print last time I > | checked). He shows 50% improvement in detonation-limited IMEP (basically > | torque) at stoichiometry, and 28% under more typical fuel-rich conditions, > | using water flow at 50% of fuel flow. He showed that you get about 2/3 of > | the benefit using water flow at 25% of fuel flow. It's not clear from the > | text, but I think these benefits were from increasing boost. The data is > | referenced from Rowe and Ladd, Journal of the SAE volume 54, no. 1, Jan. > | 1946, which is more widely available than the textbook. > | > | SAE paper 690018 "Inlet manifold water injection for control of nitrogen > | oxides - theory and experiment", by Nicholls, El-Messiri, and Newhall, > | 1969. Mostly part throttle, but does show 12% benefit in max torque with > | water flow at 50% of fuel flow (naturally aspirated). [Oops, that was > | model results, actual data showed much less benefit.] > | > | A good history and practical tips are available in "Turbochargers" by Hugh > | MacInnes, HPBooks (a division of Price Stern Sloan Inc.), 1984. > | > | Sir Harry Ricardo did extensive experiments with water injection in the > | 1920's, which are described in his textbook "The High-Speed Internal > | Combustion Engine", 1958, pages 36-40. He concluded that water injection > | enabled a compression ratio increase from 4:1 to 5:1 with very low octane > | fuel, for about 10% fuel economy improvement. > | > | Water injection is rather briefly described in the classic textbook by > | Charles F. Taylor "The Internal-Combustion Engine in Theory and Practice" > | (1968, 1985) Volume 2, page 70. He recommends water flow at 50% of fuel > | flow. > | > | There is quite a literature on water injection for piston aircraft engines > | from the 1940's, but they are not widely available. Some examples are > | Rothrock et al., "The induction of water to the inlet air as a means of > | internal cooling in aircraft-engine cylinders", NACA TR 756, 1943; and > | Bellman and Evvard "Knock-limited performance of several internal > | coolants", NACA TR 812 (ARR), 1945. Note that NACA was the precursor to > | NASA. > My Father was a radio operator for the Royal Air Force bomber command during WWII. He told me that to get fully loaded Lancaster bombers off the ground from some of the small grass airstrips, they sent the engines throught the gate (overode the max rev limiter) and injected a mixture of water and methanol. He knows nothing about the science behind this, all he knew was it gave a tremendous power boost. Anyone on the list ever heard of this? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:51:17 -0500 From: Scott_Hay@xxx.com Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39,toyota o2 Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter >Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2 >sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used >for initial tuning????. >They want $300, for theirs. >Grumpy Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody know for sure?? Grumpy/Greg The Toyota sensor can in fact measure a broad range of a/f ratios but so far, there is little information we have in the US as to how it actually works. The sensor does have 4 wires, B+ for heater, ground for heater - controlled by ecm (pwm), afr+ which supplies +3.3v from the ecm to one side of the sensor, and afr- which the ecm supplies +3.0v to the other side of the sensor. We do see a variable voltage when using a scanner tool but when you measure the sensor itself, voltage is not moving with major shifts in afr???? The general thought is that it monitors the amperage and the direction of current flow to determine the afr. The scan tool voltage is a calculated # to give diagnostic functions. Very good and incredibly accurate sensor which operates in a linear fashion to afr. This will probably add more questions than it answers but it is a start. Scott > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 09:27:07 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39,toyota o2 >Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700 >From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) >Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter > >>Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2 >>sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used >>for initial tuning????. >>They want $300, for theirs. >>Grumpy > >Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody >know for sure?? > > >Grumpy/Greg > >The Toyota sensor can in fact measure a broad range of a/f ratios but so far, >there is little information we have in the US as to how it actually works. > >The sensor does have 4 wires, B+ for heater, ground for heater - controlled by >ecm (pwm), afr+ which supplies +3.3v from the ecm to one side of the >sensor, and >afr- which the ecm supplies +3.0v to the other side of the sensor. > >We do see a variable voltage when using a scanner tool but when you measure the >sensor itself, voltage is not moving with major shifts in afr???? The general >thought is that it monitors the amperage and the direction of current flow to >determine the afr. The scan tool voltage is a calculated # to give diagnostic >functions. > >Very good and incredibly accurate sensor which operates in a linear fashion to >afr. > >This will probably add more questions than it answers but it is a start. > >Scott I suspect that Frank Parker is right. The NTK sensors started out life with seven wires, went to six, then to five. Sounds like this may well be a four wire iteration of it that Toyota is using. If so, the Greddy meter might be a pretty good deal indeed. Greg >> > > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 11:05:00 -0600 From: Brandon@xxx.edu Subject: RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39 This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand this format, some or all of this message may not be legible. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF681F.7EB08BFC Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" I have seen several articles over the years about water injection for high compression engine running on low octane street gas, and I believe methanol alcohol mixed with water gives better results. - ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF681F.7EB08BFC Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable RE: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #39

I have seen several articles over the years about = water injection for high compression engine running on low octane = street gas, and I believe methanol alcohol mixed with water gives = better results.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BF681F.7EB08BFC-- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:55:08 -0500 From: Rex Weatherford Subject: Dave Morrills O2 meter? I was looking at the schematic for Dave's meter and had a few questions. What is the LM3914? It says I can buy a meter like this from JC whitney for $20? Is that true? How are these used... I know that my ECM looks for values between .100v and 1.1v. And that my EGO sensor has to warm up before this means anything. Correct? My car is a Beretta GTZ with Olds Quad4. Will I be able to tell when the car is reach and lean from this? I'd assume so. Thanks... I'm sure I'll have more questions. Rex 92 Beretta GTZ http://www.beretta.net - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 12:51:58 -0500 From: Jim Fitzgerald Subject: Water Inj, T. Retard story I had good success with water injection on a turbo Mustang. (79 suck thru the carb model, 2.3L 4cyl). I used a VW W. Washer bottle pressurized by turbo boost to make volume proportional to boost. I exp. with many jets and injected ahead of turbo, Casual driving tips in the turbo and wastes water, so I used an adjustable pressure switch and a solenoid valve to limit consumption. I used W. Washer fluid most of the time, to get more cooling and enrichment from the alcohol content, besides it gets cold here in IL and plain water would freeze. The Mustang originally had a crude OEM electronic timing retard system, two (boost) pressure switches that retarded the timing in steps at about 2 and 6 lb. of boost. I replaced this with a mechanical setup, using a modified compound vacuum advance can from a Ford V8. I could adjust it with it with built in screw, and with an external pressure bleed, same as for the turbo waste gate. It gave smooth, continuous and linear adv. and retard curves. The combo of the water and the timing retard allowed boost to about 15 lb.. I could run with the 5L V8s until they switched to EFI. Heaven forbid if the water tank would run dry though, the engine would knock itself silly before I could off the throttle, never broke it though, ran for 110K, until turbo seals left. Anyone contemplating water injection should look into a water level switch that would limit boost and/or timing.... Jim F. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 10:34:34 -0800 From: Rich Schimmelbusch Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D [long] "Bruce Plecan" wrote: > .......why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get > a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some > spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs. > I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get Howell > to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly > Grumpy This thread is timely for me as I want to start this project on my SBC. I sent Howell an e-mail asking about their 4bbl kit, along with a fairly detailed description of my application, and all I got back was "the 4 bbl kit has been discontinued. What year car is this going into."!! So now I have a re-worded query pending with them regarding the 2 bbl kit. Maybe they'd like to sell one of those... It sounds like IAC is the mod required on the Holley TB to make it work? Does anyone know which Holley TB is a candidate for the modification, analog, D, or Di, or is there a difference? Nothing a competent machinist couldn't handle, right? Can everything else remain stock? Harness? (Howell sells a modified harness one...) I would prefer a 4 bbl TB; are there any stock solutions that would bolt to a square or spread-bore flange? As far as 2 to 4 bbl adapters go, hood clearance is tight already. Here is what I wrote them: > ....355 c.i. Chev small block with forged flat-top pistons built around an > Edelbrock Performer cam (204/214 deg. @xxx.) and manifold > (idle-5500 rpm) package. The engine uses iron L31 Vortec heads, exhausting through > 1 5/8 x 36 in. headers. The headers will be replaced and I will probably use a > "shorty" style. This is installed in a 1979 z/28 (3700 lbs.) currently in front > of a THM 350 automatic (2.52/1.52/1:1), but probably to be replaced by a THM > 200-4R (2.54/1.57/1:1/0.67). The rear gears are 3.42. Hmmm, it does say what year the vehicle is... so their tech weenies can't read either. > .... The idea of using production chevrolet parts with their attendant ease of > replacement also appeals to me. I would like use the 1227747 computer, components > (distributor, etc.), and sensors from the '87-'90 GM TBI system. Since I am using > the Vortec heads and Edelbrock manifold, I obviously need to use a throttle body > assembly that will bolt on a square or spread-bore flange. I am able to change > camshafts if recommended, but I don't think I am able to go to the Performer > RPM manifold due to hood clearance considerations. Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me in these matters! - -- Rich mailto:rschimmelbusch@xxx.net coming soon http://www.RainierAviation.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 11:28:07 -0800 From: garwillis@xxx.com (Garfield Willis) Subject: Re: Greddy air-fuel ratio meter On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 14:31:12 -0500 "Bruce Plecan" wrote: >Almost looks good, anyone have any details about the 4 wire Toyota O2 >sensor, the tech guy at greddy's said it can read 18-8:1, but not to be used >for initial tuning????. >They want $300, for theirs. >Grumpy On Tue, 25 Jan 2000 13:08:37 -0700 bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) wrote: >Sounds like it must be the Bosch sensor--that one uses four wires--anybody >know for sure?? > >Greg Hey Bruce, Greg, There is a Toyota (Denso) current-pump style wideband O2 sensor that is 4-wires (scant literature says it senses the same pair of terminals for Vs-sensor output as it pumps current thru for Ip-current pump input; not sure how they can do that), the Toyota-Denso part no. is: 89467-33010, the application is the *front* (pre-cat) sensor, refered to as "Air Fuel Sensor" on Lexus RX300 and Toyota ES300 3.0 V6 *California-only cars* (that app. info is from old notes, and I can't put me fingers on the year data at the moment) ...BUT... I seriously doubt this is it. That sensor alone costs around $300 from Toyota (alot more than the Honda-NTK 5-wire sensor, for example), so it's doubtful a meter based on it would retail for around $300. Plus, the statement that it isn't useable for initial tune is perhaps a giveaway that the Greddy product isn't really based on a wideband O2 device, but rather a conventional heated 4-wire sensor-based meter, similar to the LED gizmos often sold as "low-cost AFR meters". As far as it being the older Bosch LSM-11 4-wire sensor that Greg alludes to, I also kinda doubt it, again from the price-point, and I'm not aware of Toyota ever using it in any of their products. Was this viewable on the web somewhere, Bruce? I didn't see it on the Greddy site. Gar - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 20:02:09 -0000 From: "Gavin" Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Tim_Drury's_site=3F=BF=3F?= Anybody know whats happened to it, or an alternate address?¿? His bit in the projects page on the DIY_EFI site absolutely brilliant!(Hey, I'm a newbie at this!), and I want to see what else he has got up to. Myself, I'm starting a new programmable CDI box for a two-stroke bike. It's only ignition,(although on some modern crossers they have powerjet carbs), but I hope to have a shift light setup, rev-limiter, and maybe a switch on the bars to switch to different ignition curves. But hey, I think getting the bike running with my homebrew box will be a start. Oh, BTW, anybody got any info on bike CDI boxes, (Preferably not the big bike boxes which incorporate EFI as well, but any info is much appreciated!) Thanks a lot. Gavin - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:33:52 -0600 From: "Robert W. Hughes" Subject: EFI332 Archives There is a file on incoming for now called EFI332Archives.zip This is the referenced archives with headers and quotes (as indicated by > or|)and blank lines removed. There is a separator between each message "-<><>....." and a three line header: $Date: date information $Subject: subject information $From: sender also the WINMAIL trash has been removed. - -- Robert W. Hughes (Bob) BackYard Engineering 29:40.237N, 95:28.726W Houston, Texas rwhughe@xxx.net - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:24:38 -0500 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D [long] To make a long story short, unless you have a Holley TB in your hands for free, just go to a recycling center, and get a TB of a BBC. It will have 80, or 90 lb/hr injectors already. If too big find a late GM Cab and look for the Brn/Yel injectors. More color ID's in archives. BTW, the BBC TB has 2" buttterflies like the Holley, and the IAC is already there. I'm glad to hear Howell, figured out what they were doing was at least dumb, or wrong. That was a long thread....... Grumpy - ----- Original Message ----- From: Rich Schimmelbusch To: Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 1:34 PM Subject: Re: Holley Projection 2D [long] | "Bruce Plecan" wrote: | > .......why not wire it to a 1227747 (gm ecm), get | > a copy of the demoware from Tunercat, a chip burner, an eraser, and some | > spare proms, and custonize a good computer to your needs. | > I don't know if any of the holleys use an IAC, might need to get Howell | > to modify it, or get one from a junkyard, the BBC have a 2" butterfly | > Grumpy | | This thread is timely for me as I want to start this project on my SBC. I sent | Howell an e-mail asking about their 4bbl kit, along with a fairly detailed | description of my application, and all I got back was "the 4 bbl kit has been | discontinued. What year car is this going into."!! So now I have a re-worded | query pending with them regarding the 2 bbl kit. Maybe they'd like to sell one | of those... | | It sounds like IAC is the mod required on the Holley TB to make it work? Does | anyone know which Holley TB is a candidate for the modification, analog, D, or | Di, or is there a difference? Nothing a competent machinist couldn't handle, | right? Can everything else remain stock? Harness? (Howell sells a modified | harness one...) I would prefer a 4 bbl TB; are there any stock solutions that | would bolt to a square or spread-bore flange? As far as 2 to 4 bbl adapters | go, hood clearance is tight already. | | Here is what I wrote them: | > ....355 c.i. Chev small block with forged flat-top pistons built around an | > Edelbrock Performer cam (204/214 deg. @xxx.) and manifold | > (idle-5500 rpm) package. The engine uses iron L31 Vortec heads, exhausting through | > 1 5/8 x 36 in. headers. The headers will be replaced and I will probably use a | > "shorty" style. This is installed in a 1979 z/28 (3700 lbs.) currently in front | > of a THM 350 automatic (2.52/1.52/1:1), but probably to be replaced by a THM | > 200-4R (2.54/1.57/1:1/0.67). The rear gears are 3.42. | | Hmmm, it does say what year the vehicle is... so their tech weenies can't read | either. | | > .... The idea of using production chevrolet parts with their attendant ease of | > replacement also appeals to me. I would like use the 1227747 computer, components | > (distributor, etc.), and sensors from the '87-'90 GM TBI system. Since I am using | > the Vortec heads and Edelbrock manifold, I obviously need to use a throttle body | > assembly that will bolt on a square or spread-bore flange. I am able to change | > camshafts if recommended, but I don't think I am able to go to the Performer | > RPM manifold due to hood clearance considerations. | | Thanks in advance to anyone who can enlighten me in these matters! | -- | Rich | mailto:rschimmelbusch@xxx.net | coming soon http://www.RainierAviation.com | | | -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- | To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) | in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org | - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:36:25 -0500 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: Dave Morrills O2 meter? Before you do anything search EGOR, and stuff like O2 sensor Grumpy | I was looking at the schematic for Dave's meter and had a few questions. | What is the LM3914? | It says I can buy a meter like this from JC whitney for $20? Is that | true? | How are these used... I know that my ECM looks for values between .100v | and 1.1v. And that my EGO sensor has to warm up before this means | anything. Correct? | - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 15:24:13 -0800 From: "Greg Moore" Subject: basic tuning This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01BF6811.66F79EA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hello all, Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning information? How to = recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture is right for the = conditions - load, rpm etc. I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) that's in a '59 = Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn = more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying = with the idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to = research how to tune for that. Thanks. Cheers, Greg - ------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01BF6811.66F79EA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hello all,
 
Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning=20 information? How to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture = is right=20 for the conditions - load, rpm etc.
 
I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) = that's in a=20 '59 Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn = more=20 about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying with the = idea of=20 adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to research how to tune = for=20 that.
 
Thanks.
 
Cheers, Greg
- ------=_NextPart_000_00AF_01BF6811.66F79EA0-- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 18:40:14 -0500 From: "Bruce Plecan" Subject: Re: basic tuning This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BF682C.C89941C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable At the FTP site Tuning.doc Grumpy Hello all, Can anyone point me to a site that has basic tuning information? How = to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture is right for the = conditions - load, rpm etc. I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) that's in a '59 = Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to learn = more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying = with the idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to = research how to tune for that. Thanks. Cheers, Greg - ------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BF682C.C89941C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
At the FTP site
Tuning.doc
Grumpy

Hello all,
 
Can anyone point me to a site that has basic = tuning=20 information? How to recognize when the timing is optimized and mixture = is=20 right for the conditions - load, rpm etc.
 
I've installed a TEC11 on a Mercedes M30 (2.8l I6) = that's in=20 a '59 Unimog. It's been running great for a year now but I'd like to = learn=20 more about recognizing 'ideal' timing and fuel maps. I'm also toying = with the=20 idea of adding a turbo (mild 4-5lb boost) so I'd like to research how = to tune=20 for that.
 
Thanks.
 
Cheers, = Greg
- ------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BF682C.C89941C0-- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:50:13 -0600 (CST) From: Roger Heflin Subject: Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents) Hello, I have what I believe is a marginal fuel injector. One of the header pipes glows a light orange while the car is warming up (and lightly missing). After the car gets warmed up, the injector starts working correctly. This appears to have been a problem on my car for a while, I am pretty sure it is a bad injector and not a electrical problem, since it is pretty reliable that after it gets warmer it appears to start working correctly. Also the car is batch fire, so the only electrical problem possible is the wires connecting the injector to the other injectors on that side are bad. This is the only header pipe glowing, and I can clearly feel when the injector starts working correctly and I can clearly feel when it stops again (as it is warming up, it goes in and out). The injectors are Ford SVO 30lb/hr injectors, and ideas on what part number this would be? The local parts places need to know what the original vehicle was, and that I have no idea about. The injectors are currently installed on a 93 Z28. Roger rah@xxx.net - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 17:53:36 -0800 (PST) From: Orin Subject: Re: Where to get 1-2 fuel injectors (Ford SVO 30lb equivalents) > > I have what I believe is a marginal fuel injector. One of the header > pipes glows a light orange while the car is warming up (and lightly > missing). After the car gets warmed up, the injector starts working > correctly. This appears to have been a problem on my car for a > while, I am pretty sure it is a bad injector and not a electrical > problem, since it is pretty reliable that after it gets warmer it > appears to start working correctly. Also the car is batch fire, so > the only electrical problem possible is the wires connecting the > injector to the other injectors on that side are bad. This is the > only header pipe glowing, and I can clearly feel when the injector > starts working correctly and I can clearly feel when it stops again > (as it is warming up, it goes in and out). Obvious thing to try is swap the injector with one of its mates and see if the problem moves before buying anything new. Orin. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 21:23:05 -0500 From: "Charles A. Fair" Subject: Re: water/alcohol injection My mechanic friend Wiley told me a story about water injection. He said when he rebuilt rv motors that used water injection, they had very bad taper on the cylinders. He believes the water injection acted like a steam cleaner and removed the oil film from the cylinder walls... Water injection use became popular with RV's and high compression motors when super leaded fell out of use. My friend believes the engines suffered more damage than benefit from its use, also HP suffers greatly from using it, even though high levels of boost can be maintained. Might be some food for thought. He suggested a better substitute for water injection that would not kill power. This involves setting the EGR up for use under WOT in some sort of fashion... Maybe I misunderstood him, but does sound like an idea. If the EGR valve could be controlled by the ECU and opened when the knock sensor was set off or by a knock sum. This might work as an alternative to water injection without some of the disadvantages, such as running out of water. From some of the stories from other posters, guess the water injection can definitely work though. Chuck - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #40 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".