DIY_EFI Digest Thursday, March 9 2000 Volume 05 : Number 096 In this issue: Re: Signal generator for ecm bench links 4U was:Re: Signal generator for ecm bench Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Turbo speed sensor - ferrite in comp wheel ? Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: OEM EFI adaptation Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? Re: Turbo throttles (was Re: anti-lag) Re: Turbo throttles (was Re: anti-lag) Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: OEM EFI adaptation Re: AFM measurement/backpressure (was Turbo speed sensor) Re: ECT and voltage divider help? Re: AFM measurement/backpressure (was Turbo speed sensor) Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? 4 Bar MAP sensor for DFI Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Electronic Transmission Control Re: Signal generator for ecm bench See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 08:04:51 -0500 From: "Charles Brooks" Subject: Re: Signal generator for ecm bench If you can wait till after work, when I get home I'll scan the schematics in and post them on a page or upload them to the FTP site. If you're in a hurry, check out National Semiconductor's site at http://www.national.com/pf/LM/LM555.html you'll find a bunch of info on the LM555. There are several schematics hidden in the application notes and the data sheets for various uses. There are also several tutorials on the web for the 555. Searching on Yahoo, Lycos or Google should get you more info than you would care to sift through :) Charles Brooks Mid-Atlantic Speed Shop http://www.massmotorsports.com - ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: Scott Knight Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.org Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 07:48:42 -0500 >Now that I am working on an ecm bench to test a few things with regard >to running two controllers in parallel (LT1 PCM and SEFI8LO), I need a >function generator to give me things like crank and vss signals. After >a couple hours in the message archives I decided to make a run to Radio >Shack to find a book to get the 555 Timer IC Circuits book. This looks >to have the circuit(s) I need to build, but wouldn't you know, all of >the stores in my district don't have it (this is what the local store >manager told me after searching her computer). So, instead of driving >all over the west end of PA to get a $2 book, I wonder if anyone has a >schematic that would be useful to me instead. Being an ME, I have >limited EE capabilities, but at least can read schematics fairly well. >Building is not a problem...designing and understanding are. > >Thanks. >-- >Scott Knight mailto:scott@xxx.com >http://www.scottknight.com/ IRC:SS396man >'95 Black Impala SS >'94 Ducati 900SS CR >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 08:58:05 -0500 From: "Swayze" Subject: links 4U was:Re: Signal generator for ecm bench http://www.ee.ed.ac.uk/~kap/Hard/555/aplications.html http://www.ee.washington.edu/eeca/circuits/F_ASCII_Schem.html http://www.fagersta.com/electronics/audiocircuits.html http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/circuits.htm http://www.etek.chalmers.se/~e4jesper/electronics.html http://www.ee.duke.edu/~cec/final/node64.html http://www.ee.ualberta.ca/html/cookbook.html hopefully one of these will help. the radio shack mini notebooks are a good start though. byE Mike Swayze mswayze@xxx.com kswayze@xxx.net - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 07:28:40 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control > >For cars that see cool weather, the aftermarket cooler should be >first. Cold ATF is not good for the trans either. > >Shannen Lotsa cold weather here. I prefer it after, with a small, adjustable thermostatic valve to control things. I like to set the valve for about 140 F minimum. (no moisture to get rid of in a tranny). Greg - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 16:37:37 +0100 From: "Espen Hilde" Subject: Re: Turbo speed sensor - ferrite in comp wheel ? No I have not... But it is a good idee.....I have to many good idees and I dont know what to do with them..... but it have to work ? I am waiting to hear how succsessfull it is :-) Espen > Have you successfully done this drill thru the wheel, idea?. > Grumpy > > > > Hi again... > > No...... > > Take the compleate turbocharger and fix the wheel so it stands still. > > Drill trou the cower so you hit near the outer edge of the compressor > > wheel, turn the wheel 180 deg. drill trou the wheel once more to have the > > balance fixed.Or offset the hole closer to senter if you dont want 2 > pulses > > > > for each rpm.Glu the optical sensor in the back hole and your laser on > > front cower.Maybe you have to clean the sensor once in a while.... > > Espen > > > > ---------- > > > From: Mike (Perth, Western Australia) > > > To: diy_efi@xxx.org > > > Subject: Re: Turbo speed sensor - ferrite in comp wheel ? > > > Date: 9. mars 2000 18:13 > > > > > > At 09:35 AM 9/03/2000 +0100, "Espen Hilde" wrote: > > > >What obout drilling 2 holes in opposite side ,then the balance is ok > > > >and use a light and optical reader trou the holes. > > > > > > hehe - You mean a small hole striaght through the center hub of the > > > comp wheel - would do wonders for stress me thinks > > > > > > Ah - come to think of it - I could use one of those cheap laser pointers > > > and shine it at an angle across the edghe of the blades - and just need > a > > > optical pickup at the opposite side... Beauty - hand't thought of that > > > until your email prompted me to take a fresh look see - Tah :O) > > > > > > Would mean a bit of machining the comp wheel cover - but heck thats far > > > better then messing with the balance.. > > > > > > Yep - thats what I'll try - therefore NOP - I will *not* drill a hole in > > > comp wheel - - no more dreams about ally shattering through > > > the engine :) > > > > > > Actually would look neat - splaying red light inside the pipe, would > make > > > a nice mpeg - must get my FD-81 Sony mavica soon Had one in > > Malaysia, > > > brilliant to store pis on floppy... > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Rgds > > > > > > > > > Mike Massen > > > > > > Ancient Sufi saying: > > > "Should your God save you from adversity, choose another God" > > > > > > Pictures of site installation at Mendulong near Sipitang, Sabah > > (Malaysia) for > > > container based RAPS... http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus > > > > > > Vehicle modifications on GMH Turbo, twin tyres, possible 175Kw at wheels > > > Preliminary pictures at > > http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus/Twin_tyre_vehicle/ > > > > > > My editorial on twin-tyre opinion and good reference about tyres:- > > > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/ttyreopinion.html > > > > > > > > - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > > > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the > > quotes) > > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to > majordomo@xxx.org > > - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the > quotes) > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 08:45:10 -0800 From: Doug Dayson Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control Hi... Shannen Durphey wrote: > > Doug Dayson wrote: > > > > > The initial model year(s) were designed for the blazingly powerful 200hp > > Cross-Fire 350's...700's were continually updated until mid 88...the latest > > version can be identified by a lack of pressure ports on the case...don't > > mistake the V8 700's (Chevy Bellhousing Only) with the 6-cyl version > > (Universal Bellhousing)... > No 700R4 will bolt to BOP pattern. Universal bell is CBOP. Yep...wasn't sure what they called the non-BOP bell... > > > > Ya, right, but with a little tuning run 12s, and the trannies last in stock > > > form. How many easily tunable 12 sec applications were the 700s used > > > in?...... > > > > Many...any HP F-Car or Vette can be "easily" tuned > I turn wrenches in a Vette shop, and a few guys on the list own them. > Be careful about your claims. I didn't mention the words "emissions compliant"...(:>) > > > (heads...headers...cam...calibration) to run mid to high 12's...some folks > > have even gotten those heavy Impala SS's into the 12's...S-10 V8 conversions too... > > > > And how about the GMC Cyclone...that turbo Blazer thingie..."probably" a AWD > > 700R4 (it has a different case to mount to the AWD transfer case) in it eh... > Same case, different output shaft. So there are actually three 700 output shafts then...Vette...AWD...and Standard...correct? > > > > Important Note:...the 700R4 runs hot (not sure about the 2004R...it probably > > does too)...if any severe duty (racing...towing etc) is forseen use a > > aftermarket external cooler in series after the radiator cooler... > > For cars that see cool weather, the aftermarket cooler should be > first. Cold ATF is not good for the trans either. Good advice... Doug > > Shannen > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 08:53:57 -0800 From: Doug Dayson Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control I'm just trying to avoid the Forced Induction vs Naturally Aspirated issue in this "Transmission" thread...both ways of power generation have their advantages and disadvantages... For the purpose of comparing the power handling capabilities of the 700 series and the 2004R transmissions the stuff below is accurate... nacelp wrote: > > > Many...any HP F-Car or Vette can be "easily" tuned > > (heads...headers...cam...calibration) to run mid to high 12's...some folks > > have even gotten those heavy Impala SS's into the 12's...S-10 V8 > conversions too... > > With this I rest, > Changing heads, headers, cam and calibration is not my idea of easily tuned > (or cheap). > Grumpy > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 12:08:09 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: OEM EFI adaptation Sounds like a job for the 808 gm ecm. Can you "burn chips"?. If not might start reading programming 101, and get a deeper understanding of what to do/look for. The 808 is pretty well hac'd, and the data is floating around for calibration locations. You'll need to research the compatibility of the various sensors. While some are just pipe threads, to R+R, the TPS might be challenging Grumpy > I am well aware of the possibilities of coolant temp sensor voltage > manipulation, as well as other small tweaks, but my main problem is the > doing away with the flap type air flow meter. I have a later Camira's map > sensor. > I would like to hear some ideas on this, but keep in mind it is for a rally > car, and does not need to be totally pollution free. > Thanx. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 01:19:28 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? At 10:24 AM 9/03/2000 +0100, "Espen Hilde" wrote: >Take the compleate turbocharger and fix the wheel so it stands still. >Drill trou the cower so you hit near the outer edge of the compressor >wheel, turn the wheel 180 deg. drill trou the wheel once more to have the >balance fixed.Or offset the hole closer to senter if you dont want 2 pulses > >for each rpm.Glu the optical sensor in the back hole and your laser on >front cower.Maybe you have to clean the sensor once in a while.... OK - have given this some thought (and a short visit to my w/shop), decided its not a good idea to mess around with the comp wheel which in any way upsets balance or structural integrity - will also save me doh in the event the balance does get upset. So, This is what I've decided to do for the fist attempt:- a. Cheap laser pointer positioned to glance off or reflect off the blades This could be axially mounted or better would be where the beam is interrupted by the blades directly. (Changing the batteries could be a pain ;-) b. Sensor mounted in comp cover but, behind a tube (1/4") so the surface is away from any dust/oil, ie. tube at r/angles to stream, sensor mounted at end of tube about 1" away from edge of comp cover. c. CPU to trigger counter or time between pulses, depends on number of reflections/edges detected. CPU can use time between pulses at low speed or count in gate time for high speed - with upper lower limits. Such as alarm if wheel stops and alarm/solenoid if wheel above preset rpm. d. Calibrate with infra-red optical tacho instrument and adjust laser/sensor position to suit multiple of sensed speed (given number of edges etc). The other way which came to mind was passing an AC field through the comp wheel and using a variable reluctance pickup - that way I wouldn't need to drill the comp wheel - I think the optical one looks best... I'm interested in any other suggestions, tah, :) mike Perth, Western Australia - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 19:32:59 +0000 From: Ade + Lamb Chop Subject: Re: Turbo throttles (was Re: anti-lag) At 20:04 07/03/00 -0800, clayb wrote: >Interesting subject. I'm debating what to do with my throttle setup, and have >been considering the merits of pre and post turbo throttle bodies. I currently >have pre-turbo throttles courtesy of the old Holley carbs. Why should I switch? > >It would seem the pre-turbo throttle would allow the compressor to spin in low >pressure, during transitions to light throttle, and back to heavy throttle >again. This should reduce lag on throttle reapplication.(This isn't that great >of an issue for me, anyway.) > >Also, no blow-off valve is needed A lot of people I know count this as a negative.... :-( Ade - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 19:32:59 +0000 From: Ade + Lamb Chop Subject: Re: Turbo throttles (was Re: anti-lag) At 20:04 07/03/00 -0800, clayb wrote: >Interesting subject. I'm debating what to do with my throttle setup, and have >been considering the merits of pre and post turbo throttle bodies. I currently >have pre-turbo throttles courtesy of the old Holley carbs. Why should I switch? > >It would seem the pre-turbo throttle would allow the compressor to spin in low >pressure, during transitions to light throttle, and back to heavy throttle >again. This should reduce lag on throttle reapplication.(This isn't that great >of an issue for me, anyway.) > >Also, no blow-off valve is needed A lot of people I know count this as a negative.... :-( Ade - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 08:10:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control - -> 4= number of forward speeds. - -> L= Longitudinal trans. - -> 80= relative torque rating. <******************** - -> E= electronically shifted. That's where I get lost. 80 whats? cubit/stones? Fig Newtons? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 10:48:16 -0800 From: Ludis Langens Subject: Re: OEM EFI adaptation "Geoff, Kate & Theo Campbell" wrote: > > Please forgive my innocence, but is this mailing list always this busy? > I logged on to get my usual mail and was bombarded by over ninety messages. This list's sister list, gmecm, would be better for what you are doing. > I don't wish to seem misplaced, I am actually an Autoelectrician who wishes > to adapt a GM OEM EFI system (Holden Camira 1.8 MPFI, no O2 sensor) to a > Ford Escort 2Lt, and I was hoping for some information to make life a bit > easier. That Camira uses a 1227277 ECM. It is similar to the 1227165, 1227303, 1227808, 1227752 and 16198259 ECMs. These ECMs differ just in their case styles and what chip locations are populated. There is a lot of info on them in the gmecm list archives. - -- Ludis Langens ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies: http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 10:59:17 -0800 From: Ludis Langens Subject: Re: AFM measurement/backpressure (was Turbo speed sensor) Bernd Felsche wrote: > > Yes; retard with EGR because the mixture is more volatile. There is > more energy in the mixture before compression increasing the > likelihood of knock. GM advances the timing when they turn on EGR. This causes pinging when the EGR valve fails (closed) but the ECM doesn't notice. - -- Ludis Langens ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies: http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Mar 2000 11:52:37 -0800 From: Ludis Langens Subject: Re: ECT and voltage divider help? Bernd Felsche wrote: > > Although not directly applicable here, you can also use diode forward > voltages as a reference level. I've even used LEDs - different colour > have different forward voltages. Also serves as an indicator and > head-scratch trigger for others trying to figure out what you're doing. I once bought a surplus "12 volt" power supply. It turned out to be a 13.2 volt supply meant to run automotive radios and so on. The "power on" LED was used as the voltage reference. The LED voltage varied with the amount of current flowing through it. This resulted in lousy regulation, perhaps +/- half a volt. I ended up designing my own control electronics, using just the original transformer, output power transistor, and case. - -- Ludis Langens ludis (at) cruzers (dot) com Mac, Fiero, & engine controller goodies: http://www.cruzers.com/~ludis/ - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2000 03:50:12 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: AFM measurement/backpressure (was Turbo speed sensor) At 10:59 AM 9/3/2000 -0800, Ludis Langens wrote: >Bernd Felsche wrote: >> >> Yes; retard with EGR because the mixture is more volatile. There is >> more energy in the mixture before compression increasing the >> likelihood of knock. > >GM advances the timing when they turn on EGR. This causes pinging when >the EGR valve fails (closed) but the ECM doesn't notice. Sounds like a classic nonlinear relationship, EFI is frought with them, or rather I should say combinatorial chemistry/hydrostatics is frought ;-) A little EGR and you need to retard a little more over some threshold and oyu need to advance again. I remember something in SAE about this but it was almost 20 years ago and my memory is dynamic ;) I guess if the EGR is cool then advance would be the order of the day, ie such as in those classic bypass arrangements into carby, if however EGR is hot (via normal chamber ops) then retard would be more likely - hot exhaust will take up much more room and will definitely increase propensity for pinging, soucre of heat can't be ignored. Complex if oyu have cool EGR and high valve overlap, would make the ECU workovertime to handle the correct timing when the valve overlap is not optimum at lower revs - HEY - just saw an add for 'Z-Max' is this 'mini-molecule' had anyone actually believe there are liquid lubricants that have 'smaller' molecules then metal atoms and expect they are not volatile at engine temps - really ? The demo looked convincing - lubricatant soaked into metal surface, sounds like graphite oil. I remember Bi-tron - just plain chlorinated parrafins Hope there are no network marketing dudes on this group ;-) Tah - sorry for off topic digression (had an Australian beer) hehe :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 16:57:37 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control Yep, Fig/Newtons 80 Fig/Newtons, figures to about 500 California Horsepower (@ 5,250 rpm, or 500 ft/lbs of torque{again CA numbers}) Grumpy > -> 4= number of forward speeds. > -> L= Longitudinal trans. > -> 80= relative torque rating. <******************** > -> E= electronically shifted. > > That's where I get lost. 80 whats? cubit/stones? Fig Newtons? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 17:26:21 -0500 From: Seth Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control That's a new one. I always use MHP, or magazine horsepower :) - -Seth nacelp wrote: > > Yep, Fig/Newtons > 80 Fig/Newtons, figures to about 500 California Horsepower (@ 5,250 rpm, or > 500 ft/lbs of torque{again CA numbers}) > Grumpy > > > -> 4= number of forward speeds. > > -> L= Longitudinal trans. > > -> 80= relative torque rating. <******************** > > -> E= electronically shifted. > > > > That's where I get lost. 80 whats? cubit/stones? Fig Newtons? > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 17:32:19 -0500 From: Seth Subject: Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? I have no idea, but I wonder what the response time is for your detector? Can is cycle on/ off at ~1/20 millisecond (assuming 10 blades at 120,000 rpm). Not trying to shoot holes in your plan, but it might be worth looking into. I have usually seen the tip of one blade painted white for an optical tach in compressor wheels. That might mean a rebalance with the paint? I don't know. - -Seth "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" wrote: > > At 10:24 AM 9/03/2000 +0100, "Espen Hilde" wrote: > >Take the compleate turbocharger and fix the wheel so it stands still. > >Drill trou the cower so you hit near the outer edge of the compressor > >wheel, turn the wheel 180 deg. drill trou the wheel once more to have the > >balance fixed.Or offset the hole closer to senter if you dont want 2 pulses > > > >for each rpm.Glu the optical sensor in the back hole and your laser on > >front cower.Maybe you have to clean the sensor once in a while.... > > OK - have given this some thought (and a short visit to my w/shop), > decided its not a good idea to mess around with the comp wheel which in > any way upsets balance or structural integrity - will also save me > doh in the event the balance does get upset. > > So, > This is what I've decided to do for the fist attempt:- > > a. Cheap laser pointer > positioned to glance off or reflect off the blades > This could be axially mounted or better would be where the > beam is interrupted by the blades directly. > (Changing the batteries could be a pain ;-) > b. Sensor mounted in comp cover but, behind a tube (1/4") > so the surface is away from any dust/oil, > ie. tube at r/angles to stream, sensor mounted at end of > tube about 1" away from edge of comp cover. > c. CPU to trigger counter or time between pulses, depends > on number of reflections/edges detected. CPU can use > time between pulses at low speed or count in gate time for > high speed - with upper lower limits. Such as alarm if > wheel stops and alarm/solenoid if wheel above preset rpm. > d. Calibrate with infra-red optical tacho instrument > and adjust laser/sensor position to suit multiple of > sensed speed (given number of edges etc). > > The other way which came to mind was passing an AC field through the > comp wheel and using a variable reluctance pickup - that way I wouldn't > need to drill the comp wheel - I think the optical one looks best... > > I'm interested in any other suggestions, > > tah, > > :) mike > Perth, Western Australia > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 17:45:40 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: Turbo speed sensor going to use optics instead ? I used to use a paint dab for spin balancing cranks (long time ago, ie early 70s), just as a reference. Like using paint dab on the crank pulley when using a timing light. Grumpy > I have no idea, but I wonder what the response time is for your > detector? Can is cycle on/ off at ~1/20 millisecond (assuming 10 blades > at 120,000 rpm). Not trying to shoot holes in your plan, but it might be > worth looking into. I have usually seen the tip of one blade painted > white for an optical tach in compressor wheels. That might mean a > rebalance with the paint? I don't know. > > -Seth > > "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" wrote: > > > > At 10:24 AM 9/03/2000 +0100, "Espen Hilde" wrote: > > >Take the compleate turbocharger and fix the wheel so it stands still. > > >Drill trou the cower so you hit near the outer edge of the compressor > > >wheel, turn the wheel 180 deg. drill trou the wheel once more to have the > > >balance fixed.Or offset the hole closer to senter if you dont want 2 pulses > > > > > >for each rpm.Glu the optical sensor in the back hole and your laser on > > >front cower.Maybe you have to clean the sensor once in a while.... > > > > OK - have given this some thought (and a short visit to my w/shop), > > decided its not a good idea to mess around with the comp wheel which in > > any way upsets balance or structural integrity - will also save me > > doh in the event the balance does get upset. > > > > So, > > This is what I've decided to do for the fist attempt:- > > > > a. Cheap laser pointer > > positioned to glance off or reflect off the blades > > This could be axially mounted or better would be where the > > beam is interrupted by the blades directly. > > (Changing the batteries could be a pain ;-) > > b. Sensor mounted in comp cover but, behind a tube (1/4") > > so the surface is away from any dust/oil, > > ie. tube at r/angles to stream, sensor mounted at end of > > tube about 1" away from edge of comp cover. > > c. CPU to trigger counter or time between pulses, depends > > on number of reflections/edges detected. CPU can use > > time between pulses at low speed or count in gate time for > > high speed - with upper lower limits. Such as alarm if > > wheel stops and alarm/solenoid if wheel above preset rpm. > > d. Calibrate with infra-red optical tacho instrument > > and adjust laser/sensor position to suit multiple of > > sensed speed (given number of edges etc). > > > > The other way which came to mind was passing an AC field through the > > comp wheel and using a variable reluctance pickup - that way I wouldn't > > need to drill the comp wheel - I think the optical one looks best... > > > > I'm interested in any other suggestions, > > > > tah, > > > > :) mike > > Perth, Western Australia > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2000 17:59:37 -0500 From: "Flanagan, Stephen CECOM RDEC STCD" Subject: 4 Bar MAP sensor for DFI Does anyone have info on a 4 Bar MAP sensor that can be used to replace a 3 Bar sensor on a ACCEL DFI system. I am running an excess of 35 lbs of boost and the DFI is only mapped up to 3 Bar or roughly 30 lbs of boost. I would like to substitute the 4 bar sensor for the 3 bar sensor, and lie to the map. My one concern is if the output of the 3 Bar sensor is relative to the output of the 4 Bar sensor. I am guessing here but for Example: on the 3 Bar sensor, voltage output is 0 - 5 volts which equals 0 to 3 Bar. For the 4 Bar sensor, 0 - 5 volts should equal 0 - 4 Bar. I am looking for a specs on the 3 bar and 4 bar sensors and some feedback if anyone has tried something like this in the past. If anyone can educate me on this it would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance. sf - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 18:45:33 -0500 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control Greg Hermann wrote: > > > > >For cars that see cool weather, the aftermarket cooler should be > >first. Cold ATF is not good for the trans either. > > > >Shannen > > Lotsa cold weather here. I prefer it after, with a small, adjustable > thermostatic valve to control things. I like to set the valve for about 140 > F minimum. (no moisture to get rid of in a tranny). > > Greg > As usual, you do an above average install. : ) Shannen - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 18:50:00 -0500 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control Dave Williams wrote: > > -> 4= number of forward speeds. > -> L= Longitudinal trans. > -> 80= relative torque rating. <******************** > -> E= electronically shifted. > > That's where I get lost. 80 whats? Sure. cubit/stones? Ok, Fig Newtons? If you like... It's _relative_. An 80 is stronger than a 60, a 60 is stronger than a 40. I'd like to see some hard data to go with this, as there's none in my GM info. I wonder if there are different scales. Will the 4T60E to withstand as much torque as the 4L60E? Shannen > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 18:57:14 -0500 From: Shannen Durphey Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control Doug Dayson wrote: > > Hi... > > > > And how about the GMC Cyclone...that turbo Blazer thingie..."probably" a AWD > > > 700R4 (it has a different case to mount to the AWD transfer case) in it eh... > > Same case, different output shaft. > > So there are actually three 700 output shafts then...Vette...AWD...and > Standard...correct? > > > 700R4 used in conjunction with a transfer case has a very short output shaft. An adapter is bolted to the trans where the tailshaft housing usually sits. There's no speed sensor or speedometer drive gear on these shafts. I'm not going to say there are only two other styles of output shaft, I haven't done enough part swapping with these units to know. Shannen - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 19:45:47 -0500 From: Scott Knight Subject: Re: Electronic Transmission Control > It's _relative_. An 80 is stronger than a 60, a 60 is stronger than a > 40. > I'd like to see some hard data to go with this, as there's none in my > GM info. I wonder if there are different scales. Will the 4T60E to > withstand as much torque as the 4L60E? Got this from http://www.gmpowertrain.com/transmissions.htm so it really only applies to current transmissions. Not sure of the ratings on the same transmissions in the past. I am pretty sure the 4L80-E and 4L60-E are the same since I remember looking at them a long time ago. Interesting is the difference between the 4L80-E and 4T80-E as well as the L and T versions of the 60. Trans Max Engine Torque Max Gearbox Torque Max Gross Weight 3T40 200 390 5100 4T40-E 200 325 4100 4T45-E 220 360 4100 4T60-E 280 400 6400 4T65-E 280 400 6400 4T80-E 300 461 4750 4L30-E 258 440 7715 4L60-E 350 670 8600 4L80-E 440 885 16000 5L40-E 280 494 7716 Later dates. - -- Scott Knight mailto:scott@xxx.com http://www.scottknight.com/ IRC:SS396man '95 Black Impala SS '94 Ducati 900SS CR - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 09 Mar 2000 20:09:36 -0400 From: Bill Shaw Subject: Re: Signal generator for ecm bench Hi Scott, There's a stimulator buy going on right now on the efi332 list. The stim is a PIC based stimulator for the efi332, creating crank and cam pulses, as well as pots for baro, map, tps, cts, rpm, ats. http://members.tripod.com/Heelandtoe/stimboard.htm It may be just what you need. hth, Bill Scott Knight wrote: > Now that I am working on an ecm bench to test a few things with regard > to running two controllers in parallel (LT1 PCM and SEFI8LO), I need a > function generator to give me things like crank and vss signals. After > a couple hours in the message archives I decided to make a run to Radio > Shack to find a book to get the 555 Timer IC Circuits book. This looks > to have the circuit(s) I need to build, but wouldn't you know, all of > the stores in my district don't have it (this is what the local store > manager told me after searching her computer). So, instead of driving > all over the west end of PA to get a $2 book, I wonder if anyone has a > schematic that would be useful to me instead. Being an ME, I have > limited EE capabilities, but at least can read schematics fairly well. > Building is not a problem...designing and understanding are. > > Thanks. > - -- > Scott Knight mailto:scott@xxx.com > http://www.scottknight.com/ IRC:SS396man > '95 Black Impala SS > '94 Ducati 900SS CR - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #96 **************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".