DIY_EFI Digest Thursday, March 16 2000 Volume 05 : Number 105 In this issue: CHamber isolation ? Re: Paddle Shifters - Electronic Trans Controller Re: Crack valve availability Re: CHamber isolation ? Re: CHamber isolation ? Re: CHamber isolation ? RE: Looking for obscure connector Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: Optimax/PULP - twin tyres Re: water into efi system before injectors. Motronic .bin uploaded HELP! Re: CHamber isolation ? ....efi content at buttom...just about life..... Re: CHamber isolation ? Re: Crack valve availability Re: Motronic .bin uploaded HELP! Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: Paddle Shifters - Electronic Trans Controller Re: Crack valve availability Re: CHamber isolation ? Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 02:56:07 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: CHamber isolation ? Hi all, I notice on all engines I've worked on that aerodynamics in the crankcase aren't given much attention in production engines (fair enough for cost), I have the opportunity to work on and modify the crankcase on a straight six (RB30ET) block and wondered if its worth trying chamber isolation in the crankcase. ie. Rather then having crankcase gases move around between chambers from various pistons etc, why not isolate each chamber with baffles (other then a small hole for oil outlet). That way on the descending stroke, the crankcase gets pressurised and this 'power' is returned on the compression cycle - or at least some of it - allowing for some oil outlet through the hole naturally. The overall blowby should still allow the oil to exit and not upset the bearings... In essence, each chamber in the crankcase has its own oil hole(s) into the main crankcase (baffle added so that each chamber has its own mini crankcase slightly abive the main crankcase)... Is this completely off beam - or do the F1 guys do this sort of thing at their usual 16,000 rpm engines ? I'm only interested actually as its quite easy to do and would make an interesting experiment... Tah :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:55:24 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: Paddle Shifters - Electronic Trans Controller Poster was Scott Parkhurst (?) the mag guy, in reference to an aftermarket controller. Should be within the last 2 weeks Grumpy > Someone recently, at either DIY or GMECM, made mention of the concept of > "paddle" shifting an electronically controlled trans either in the context > of TCC, or 4L80E valve bodies, or aftermarket controllers, or ??????....... > > I remember reading the message, but can no longer seem to find it anywhere. > Does anyone recall this? Can anyone point me toward that discussion thread? > > Walt. > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:10:21 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: Crack valve availability > >Me thinks your going way overboard, with a lot of time effort money, for the > >difference in a well executed wet manifold system, vs what your doing. > mmmm Are you saying there would be sufficient water in contact with hottest > part of engine if derived from manifold alone - ? Your plan vs a well done bulk manifold setup, what % of increase do you really think you can attian, and at what cost? > IMHO, The precision of a crack valve spraying onto piston crown with or > without a deferred fuel cycle would be of more efficiency then via manifold > alone and of interest to test... > If I can do it cost effectively then i would like to pursue it, I have spare > heads and knowledge of controls, all I need are the crack valves and a > way to insert them in the appropriate place (there's a joke somewhere;). Not trying to rain on your parade, just, thought there migh be larger gains to be made else were for the amount of work your talking about, is all. I've gone off and done lots of stuff that a "normal" guy wouldn't bother with, and while I've found some gains, alot have been a large project with min gains. Very few ideas are new, just now we have better materials, dat processing, so theings can be a bit better executed. Ya might look at how Mercedes did FI on the 300SL coupes. > > Earl's Plumbing, used to have some low pressure cracking valves > is "Earl's" a synonym for 'any' plumber or am I being too technical ;-) Sorry, they are a USA, kinda surplus house for Aircraft Fittings, most usually AN stuff. They used to carry a ton of other stuff, for hydralics, ie fuel vapor seperators, actually they were for the trannies in helicopters. > I never thought any (conventional) plumbers would have a small enough and > perhaps alterable valve to suit in cylinder insertion - I suppose I > should start ringing around plumbing engineering firms ? Try Aircraft first. > Any machinist's, hydraulic engineers on this list ? > Saw a diesel crack valve the other day *very* large but, it was around > 1000psi for a 500cc or so single cylinder. > SHouldn't it be possible to find/make a valve thats around 1/4" dia > and around 1/2 to 3/4" long for 1/8th pipe - or thereabouts ? OK, shouldn't Grumpy > Rgds > Mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:19:44 -0600 From: MysticZ Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? Mike (Perth, Western Australia) wrote: > > ie. Rather then having crankcase gases move around between chambers from > various pistons etc, why not isolate each chamber with baffles (other > then a small hole for oil outlet). That way on the descending stroke, the > crankcase gets pressurised and this 'power' is returned on the compression > cycle - or at least some of it - allowing for some oil outlet through the > hole naturally. The overall blowby should still allow the oil to exit > and not upset the bearings... Sounds interesting. Would help control stuff blowing past the rings (less pressure differential), but may rob some peak power since it would take energy to pressurize the area below the piston. There is one little problem, however. The conn rod would need a big hole, probably big enough to make the whole thing unworkable. - -- Steve 97 Chevy Camaro Z28, Mystic teal, A4, not stock 90 Kawasaki EX500A4, black, M6, not even CLOSE to stock! lt1_z28@xxx.net/~lt1_z28 Aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, titanium, and two cast iron balls. McMillan Motorsports- http://www.mmsbikes.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:28:59 -0500 From: Keith Mezzina Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? Mike, it's been my experience in engine building that what you are proposing will increase pumping losses in the motor. You'll loose more power compressing crankcase gasses then you gain going the other way. On Thu, 16 Mar 2000 02:56:07, "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" wrote: >Hi all, > >I notice on all engines I've worked on that aerodynamics in the crankcase >aren't given much attention in production engines (fair enough for cost), > >I have the opportunity to work on and modify the crankcase on a straight >six (RB30ET) block and wondered if its worth trying chamber isolation in >the crankcase. - - - - - - - 1973 Dodge Challenger (340/727/3.91SG/NOS) 13.01 @xxx.2 @ 112 (NOS) 1985 Z-28 Backhalf Race car (356/TH400/5.56) 1977 Suburban (Daily Beater) Homepage: http://www.checkmateracing.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 14:36:39 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? Cranckcase stuffing works wonders on some 2 strokes but for different reasons. Tried crankcase stuffer on some fiats yearssssssss ago, no gains, best HP in crankcase mods is a good windage tray + scraper, to help min oil areation, and being whipped around.. Never saw a HP with mild attempts at areo crank counterweights. Grumpy > > ie. Rather then having crankcase gases move around between chambers from > > various pistons etc, why not isolate each chamber with baffles (other > > then a small hole for oil outlet). That way on the descending stroke, the > > crankcase gets pressurised and this 'power' is returned on the compression > > cycle - or at least some of it - allowing for some oil outlet through the > > hole naturally. The overall blowby should still allow the oil to exit > > and not upset the bearings... > > Sounds interesting. Would help control stuff blowing past the rings > (less pressure differential), but may rob some peak power since it would > take energy to pressurize the area below the piston. There is one little > problem, however. The conn rod would need a big hole, probably big > enough to make the whole thing unworkable. > -- > Steve > 97 Chevy Camaro Z28, Mystic teal, A4, not stock > 90 Kawasaki EX500A4, black, M6, not even CLOSE to stock! > lt1_z28@xxx.net/~lt1_z28 > Aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, titanium, and two cast iron balls. > McMillan Motorsports- http://www.mmsbikes.com > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:31:16 -0000 From: "Rich M" Subject: RE: Looking for obscure connector Colin, What you describe sounds like an AMP "Junior Timer" 35-way, which is pretty common on european Bosch ECU's (L-Jetronic etc.); Nippondenso have built systems based on L-Jetronic (presumably under license from Bosch) and use this connector on some Japanese "L-jet" equivalent car ECU's. Where are you based Colin? - if they are available in your region, getting a L-Jetronic type ECU from a breakers yard may be the easiest way to get the male connector, even if it is a bit of a waste. Rich > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-diy_efi@xxx.org]On > Behalf Of Colin Goodall > Sent: 15 March 2000 18:32 > To: diy_efi@xxx.org > Subject: Looking for obscure connector > > > I am in the process of trying to track down the connector for the > EFI computer > on a 1982 Honda CX 500 Turbo (Motorcycle). The computer is > manufactured by > Nippondenso and has a 35 pin connector. Pins are 3 mm wide on 5 > mm centers. > There are two rows: 1 with 17 pins and a second with 18 pins. > The engagement > of the connector is via a lever motion. One end hooks in and the > connector is > levered down into place where it clicks into place. > > The connector I am looking for is the male side of the connector > which is part > of the computer. On this side I can find no identifying marks as to > manufacturer or part number. However on the female side I found > the connector > marked as an AMP product with part number 171715. > > Much searching on the AMP site provided no information. However > I did find a > printed AMP catalogue which contained a whole series of > connectors that seemed > to be the correct type. The go by the name "AMP Timer > Connectors". Out of the > whole batch I found only 1 connector on their web site. It was > AMP part number > 2-825213-5. I found only 1 supplier which listed the part number > but when I > conteacted them they had no more in stock. > > If anyone knows a source for this part (or suitable replacement) > I would really > appreciate it. > > Thanx > Colin Goodall > goodall@xxx.com > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------ > ---------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without > the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 20:02:25 -0600 From: Tom Sharpe Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Greg Hermann wrote: > >so, without getting into details, a normally aspirated high compression > >motor could use this to prevent knock by lowering combustion temperatures. > >Now could this be knock sensor triggered? would the H2O anti knock rob > >more.or less. power than retarding the spark? (rough numbers). > > Water injection won't rob any power if you keep the water quantity from > going too high. > > Greg All good, now raise the CR and temps back up for higher efficiency & POWER. Tom - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 21:47:57 -0500 From: "Swayze" Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. good book thanks for pointing me at the info byE Mike Swayze mswayze@xxx.com kswayze@xxx.net ............... > You might also want to try "Internal Combustion Engines and Air Pollution" > by Edward F. Obert.. > > Try Amazon.com, that's where I got the latter. > > Greg > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 08:27:04 +0800 From: dzorde@xxx.com Subject: Re: Optimax/PULP - twin tyres Will get a 5L sample next time I go past and shove it in the race car as its easy to pick bad Vs good fuel in that. Don't think Orbital actually have a prototyping machine, there are only a few places in Oz as far as I'm aware with those. As for prototyping I meant they have a small foundry for casting engine parts once they have the moulds. Osborne park has lots of good companies with motor knowledge, or just cars to look at (Barbagello Motor Sports, drewl, drewl !!) Dan dzorde@xxx.com Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Greg Hermann writes: >>so, without getting into details, a normally aspirated high compression >>motor could use this to prevent knock by lowering combustion temperatures. >>Now could this be knock sensor triggered? would the H2O anti knock rob >>more.or less. power than retarding the spark? (rough numbers). >Water injection won't rob any power if you keep the water quantity from >going too high. [It's only a small factor, but...] The humidity of the intake air is highly variable. Anywhere from 3g/kg (water to air) to 40g/kg i.e. (from 200:1 to 25:1 AWR). Measuring the humidity isn't done so easily, nor rapidly. One could saturate the intake air with water vapour bringing the RH (relative humidity) to near 100%; that way you know how much water vapour is present and how much more you want inject as liquid for in-chamber cooling. A pre-filter "misting-chamber" using an air-shrouded, or air-venturi injector could be used - excess water would condense and drain off before getting past the filter. The gasoline FAQ indicates a 4:1 relationship (approximately) between water _vapour_ and octane number requirement (ONR). i.e. 4g/kg water vapour results in a reduction of 1 point in ONR That makes a large difference in practice on knock-sensitive engines. >From that, it would frequently be sufficient to just use the misting-chamber approach - especially for NA engines. The extra cost of high-pressure water injection could be avoided. But if money is no object, do both. :-) As to determining how much water can be injected, one could consult steam tables, etc and determine from the amount of energy, the maximum amount of water which can be evaporated during compression. You get a small margin of "safety" due to the heat stored in the walls of the combustion chamber from the previous cycle. Don't rely on it too much or the thermal cycling could become a problem. There are apparently a large number of SAE papers on the subject of water injection. I've read none, so don't ask me which one is "best"! :-) - -- Real Name: Bernd Felsche Email: nospam.bernie@xxx.au http://www.perth.dialix.com.au/~bernie - Private HP - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 21:50:08 -0000 From: "Will Reeve" Subject: Motronic .bin uploaded HELP! Hello all, I have uploaded a copy of the chip from my car to the ftp site, opel3l24v.bin. Its from a Opel 3.0l 24V straight six using Motronic M1.5 management (0 261 200 356 GM 90 325 269 1 267 357 042) the engine has a duel length inlet which is switched at 4,000rpm. Fabrizio has kindly pointed out how to find some maps (ignition and injector duration) but I don't know when the ECU uses them! Also I would like to know where idle speed, rev limit and the other parameters are stored and where the check sum is! I think a similar system was used in BMW 6's. Any pointers / books / WebPages would be much appreciated. Yours, Will - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 17:28:42 -0500 From: Keith Mezzina Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? On Wed, 15 Mar 2000 13:19:44 -0600, MysticZ wrote: >Sounds interesting. Would help control stuff blowing past the rings >(less pressure differential), but may rob some peak power since it would >take energy to pressurize the area below the piston. There is one little >problem, however. The conn rod would need a big hole, probably big >enough to make the whole thing unworkable. Actually, you just reminded me of something else. Ring seal. You *have* to have a pressure differential to achieve ring seal. Both NASCAR and Drag Racers (I'm one of the latter) go to great efforts to create crankcase vacuum. This helps the rings to seal. Rings don't seal via spring tension, they seal by having some of the combustion gasses get behind 'em and push them out towards the cylinder walls. If you have a vacuum in the crankcase, the differential of pressure is greater, and the rings get more outward pressure. - - - - - - - 1973 Dodge Challenger (340/727/3.91SG/NOS) 13.01 @xxx.2 @ 112 (NOS) 1985 Z-28 Backhalf Race car (356/TH400/5.56) 1977 Suburban (Daily Beater) Homepage: http://www.checkmateracing.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 23:48:33 +0100 From: "Espen Hilde" Subject: ....efi content at buttom...just about life..... Hi! Hope this is worth the bandwith..... This is what The Dalai Lama has to say on the millennium, all it takes is a few seconds to read and think. Do not keep this message. The mantra must leave your hands within 96 hours. You will get a very pleasant surprise. This is true even if you are not superstitious. I N S T R U C T I O N S F O R L I F E 1. Take into account that great love and great achievements involve great > risk. > 2. When you lose, don't lose the lesson. > 3. Follow the three Rs: > Respect for self > Respect for others and > Responsibility for all your actions. > > 4. Remember that not getting what you want is sometimes a wonderful stroke > of luck. > > 5. Learn the rules so you know how to break them properly. > > 6. Don't let a little dispute injure a great friendship. > > 7. When you realize you've made a mistake, take immediate steps to correct > it. > > 8. Spend some time alone every day. > > 9. Open your arms to change, but don't let go of your values. > > 10. Remember that silence is sometimes the best answer. > > 11. Live a good, honourable life. Then when you get older and think back, > you'll be able to enjoy it a second time. > > 12. A loving atmosphere in your home is the foundation for your life. > > 13. In disagreements with loved ones, deal only with the current > situation. Don't bring up the past. > > 14. Share your knowledge. It's a way to achieve immortality. (here are some bennefits for DIY_EFI members) > > 15. Be gentle with the earth. > > 16. Once a year, go someplace you've never been before. > > 17. Remember that the best relationship is one in which your love for each > other exceeds your need for each other. > > 18. Judge your success by what you had to give up in order to get it. > > 19. Approach love and cooking with reckless abandon. > > FORWARD THIS MANTRA E-MAIL TO AT LEAST 5 PEOPLE AND YOUR LIFE WILL > IMPROVE. > > 0-4 people: Your life will improve slightly. > > 5-9 people: Your life will improve to your liking. > > 9-14 people: You will have at least 5 surprises in the next 3 > weeks. > > 15 people and above: Your life will improve drastically and everything you > ever dreamed of will begin to take shape Auto speed has a very interesting article about MOTEC and its founder. The strong points about Motec he says it can be hocked up to allmost all the sensors and tooted wheels out there. If anyone would like a copy please tell me. Flame suite on.....ok...I will not do it again. Espen - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 23:57:12 +0100 From: "Espen Hilde" Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? I think a turbo engine could have better durability at boost if the pressure in crankcase could have the same pressure as boost. Think how the exhaust valve guides have a constant high back pressure of hot exhaust.I canot imagine much lubrication can find its way down the valve stem .Allso the piston and rings with maybe higher air pressure on top of piston all the time . Espen - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 00:34:16 +0100 From: "Espen Hilde" Subject: Re: Crack valve availability a Diesel engine nossle? adjust the spring pressure for cracking pressure. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:48:33 -0600 From: steve ravet Subject: Re: Motronic .bin uploaded HELP! Will, try running your ECM on the bench, with pots and 555 circuits to feed the inputs. Then you can zero out parts of the tables and see what conditions that has an effect. - --steve Will Reeve wrote: > > Hello all, > I have uploaded a copy of the chip from my car to the ftp site, > opel3l24v.bin. Its from a Opel 3.0l 24V straight six using Motronic M1.5 > management (0 261 200 356 GM 90 325 269 1 267 357 042) the engine has a > duel length inlet which is switched at 4,000rpm. Fabrizio has kindly pointed > out how to find some maps (ignition and injector duration) but I don't know > when the ECU uses them! Also I would like to know where idle speed, rev > limit and the other parameters are stored and where the check sum is! I > think a similar system was used in BMW 6's. Any pointers / books / WebPages > would be much appreciated. > > Yours, > > Will > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - -- Steve Ravet steve.ravet@xxx.com ARM,Inc. www.arm.com - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 20:21:16 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. >Greg Hermann writes: > >>>so, without getting into details, a normally aspirated high compression >>>motor could use this to prevent knock by lowering combustion temperatures. >>>Now could this be knock sensor triggered? would the H2O anti knock rob >>>more.or less. power than retarding the spark? (rough numbers). > >>Water injection won't rob any power if you keep the water quantity from >>going too high. > > >As to determining how much water can be injected, one could consult >steam tables, etc and determine from the amount of energy, the >maximum amount of water which can be evaporated during compression. >You get a small margin of "safety" due to the heat stored in the >walls of the combustion chamber from the previous cycle. Don't rely >on it too much or the thermal cycling could become a problem. > This is precisely how I did the calculation that led to the 75--80% of fuel mass flow rate (at stoich) for a maximum water mass flow rate. Greg - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 15 Mar 2000 23:37:39 -0500 From: "Swayze" Subject: Re: Paddle Shifters - Electronic Trans Controller Scott whats inside that stand alone controller..is it similar to one of the later PCM's, i've only read some on the 68HC11 which I am lead to believe is a variant of the P4. Is the stand alone controller just a dressed up P6 or is it altogether a different OS and chip Swayze mswayze@xxx.com kswayze@xxx.net ........... Subject: Re: Paddle Shifters - Electronic Trans Controller > Poster was Scott Parkhurst (?) the mag guy, in reference to an aftermarket > controller. > Should be within the last 2 weeks > Grumpy > > > > Someone recently, at either DIY or GMECM, made mention of the concept of > > "paddle" shifting an electronically controlled trans either in the context > > of TCC, or 4L80E valve bodies, or aftermarket controllers, or > ??????....... > > > > I remember reading the message, but can no longer seem to find it > anywhere. > > Does anyone recall this? Can anyone point me toward that discussion > thread? > > > > Walt. > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the > quotes) > > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 14:08:00 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Crack valve availability At 12:34 AM 16/3/2000 +0100, you wrote: >a Diesel engine nossle? >adjust the spring pressure for cracking pressure. Unfortunately its way too big, looking for something less then 1/8th of that size... Tah :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 14:19:21 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: CHamber isolation ? At 01:19 PM 15/3/2000 -0600, you wrote: >Mike (Perth, Western Australia) wrote: >Sounds interesting. Would help control stuff blowing past the rings >(less pressure differential), but may rob some peak power since it would >take energy to pressurize the area below the piston. There is one little >problem, however. The conn rod would need a big hole, probably big >enough to make the whole thing unworkable. no no, the con rod and bearing are inside this extra little crank-case, so all moving parts within each section are baffled, the only exit is a couple of small holes for oil to stream out into the major crankcase which is immedaitely below. On the upwards stroke these holes will suck small amount of crankcase air back up into the small crankcase but overall will pass oil on the way out due to blowby gas from the previous cycle - I suppose I could put a jiggler valve in there but don't like the idea of something comng off - if the hole is small enough I won't lose to much compression but will still passs oil. I was thinking pair of holes one 1/16th" ? I would also imagine with such setup that the rings would get a little more oil then before Rgds :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 11:08:30 +0800 From: "Ken Thompson" Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI From: Kevin Jaeger kjaeger@xxx.au Clair, I was with you Re your comments on "stoic", but K-Jet is a diabolically ugly mouse trap. It does not like the slightest contamination when in a Mercedes Benz car and therefore would hate your boat. Tuning will not be very easy. I guess one can get away with a lot on land (in a car), where the ecu lives in the kick panel, away from corrosion. The same exposed GM ecu in a boat would not live long at all. A friend who I have heard mentioned here on a number of occasions, builds 1,500 HP boats, I refer to Ray Hall www.turbofast.com.au Now in this situation, money is no object so the ecu does not get wet and it stays cool and if the boat crashes and sinks, they build another one. I would think a LUCAS system off of a British Triumph, would do the trick for you. Some mods would be required but "Kinsler Fuel Injection" of Michigan will have parts. I think there is still a place for carbies in this world and you situation is a likely candidate. I am sure that we could make for you a beautifully designed induction system, set up a Marinised Motec M8 and build you the greatest wiring loom known to man, at a cost. In Australia the wreckers do no want Triumphs fitted with LUCAS systems, you'd have to pay the wrecker to take the car. Rigging up a LUCAS system would be much easier than K-Jet and is certainly much more compact. I wouldn't know a Corvair if I fell over one, but I think that the Triumph butterfly sets would be easy to adapt, than Bosch's "fuel / air" valve system. Regards, Kevin. > Date: Tue, 14 Mar 2000 09:17:48 -0500 > From: "Clare Snyder" > Subject: CFI > > Not technically EFI, but FI anyway. > > I have a 140 HP Corvair 6 cyl engine that came with 4 carbs. I want to put > injection on it for airboat/aircraft use. It will run a maximum of 3500RPM, > putting out (hopefully) about 100-110 HP. > My thought was to use a 4 cyl Bosch K-Jet type system (most likely K-E) with > one injector in each carb inlet port. Any reason this will not work? The > 'vair is a 2.7 Litre (164 inch) engine. > What relatively common (in north america) engine of 2 liters or more used > K-Jet? > > Thanks - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 16 Mar 100 16:09:02 +0800 (WST) From: Bernd Felsche Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI >From: Kevin Jaeger kjaeger@xxx.au >I was with you Re your comments on "stoic", but K-Jet is a diabolically ugly >mouse trap. It does not like the slightest contamination when in a Mercedes >Benz car and therefore would hate your boat. Tuning will not be very easy. K-Jet is beautifully-simple. It's the electronic addons and cold-start junk that's the bug-bear. >I guess one can get away with a lot on land (in a car), where the ecu lives K-Jet has no ECU until you go for KE-Jet. The purely mechanical K-Jet isn't all that difficult to set up if you have the equipment and know-how. Probst's book describes the system well. >in the kick panel, away from corrosion. The same exposed GM ecu in a boat >would not live long at all. A friend who I have heard mentioned here on a >number of occasions, builds 1,500 HP boats, I refer to Ray Hall >www.turbofast.com.au Now in this situation, money is no object so the ecu >does not get wet and it stays cool and if the boat crashes and sinks, they >build another one. The reservation I have about K-Jet on a boat is the zinc castings. >I think there is still a place for carbies in this world and you situation >is a likely candidate. Nothing wrong with a good TDI on the water. :-) >In Australia the wreckers do no want Triumphs fitted with LUCAS systems, >you'd have to pay the wrecker to take the car. Rigging up a LUCAS system >would be much easier than K-Jet and is certainly much more compact. I LUCAS - "the prince of darkness" :-) >wouldn't know a Corvair if I fell over one, but I think that the Triumph >butterfly sets would be easy to adapt, than Bosch's "fuel / air" valve >system. - -- Real Name: Bernd Felsche Email: nospam.bernie@xxx.au http://www.perth.dialix.com.au/~bernie - Private HP - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #105 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. A non-digest (direct mail) version of this list is also available; to subscribe to that instead, replace "diy_efi-digest" in the command above with "diy_efi".