DIY_EFI Digest Friday, March 17 2000 Volume 05 : Number 109 In this issue: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI 18mm sparkplugs turbocharger repair Re: Sophisticated scan tool? Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: 18mm sparkplugs Color Tune - Safety Warning ! Re: sparkplug reading - Color Tune Re: Sophisticated scan tool? malpasi whistle Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Get 50Hp for free :) Re: Color Tune - Safety Warning ! Re: Color Tune - Safety Warning ! Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Fw: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #107 Programming Basics 61 Corvette with 91 TPI and 6 speed Transmission Re: Programming Basics 61 Corvette with 91 TPI and 6 speed Transmission Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: water into efi system before injectors. Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the DIY_EFI or DIY_EFI-Digest mailing lists. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 05:37:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: Re: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #104 / CFI - -> The reservation I have about K-Jet on a boat is the zinc castings. Mine doesn't have any zinc. The fuel distributor is cast iron and the air meter is aluminum. It's a VW unit with braided steel pressure lines. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 06:30:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: 18mm sparkplugs - -> Why did Ford use 18mm sparkplugs in 'late-model' engines, when pretty - -> much no-one else did? Not a trick question, I am curious. In the SAE paper on the German-designed 2000 OHC 'Pinto' engine, Ford said they went from 14mm to 18mm plugs because the 14mm plugs had a tendency to foul when the engine was operated for very short periods of time, as in when driven on and off the transporters and in the dealer lots. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 06:50:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: turbocharger repair - -> Are there any good suggestion for low-cost repair parts for a - -> turbocharger? The application is a friend's 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo. I just rebuilt two AiResearch turbos for a total cost of $62, including having both rotating assemblies balanced. Bearings and 'piston rings' are cheap. You can buy other parts as required. Kits with all the goodies run $100-$150 for most turbos. I've been getting my parts from the local Diesel truck turbo place, which has had everything I've needed in stock. There's probably some similar place near you. The worst case scenario (assuming the turbo didn't die catastrophically) is a worn center housing. These can be reamed and you can get oversize bearings, or the turbo place may have a used center section; most of them seem to have a supply of used parts on hand. They're no big deal to work on. Just use lots of penetrating oil to help break through the rust and take your time. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 09:34:01 -0500 From: "C. Brooks" Subject: Re: Sophisticated scan tool? When this was posted yesterday I got right on the phone and called my local Circuit City and asked about them. They said that the unit was backordered so far it would be unreasonable to quote me an expected delivery date. Charles Brooks Mid-Atlantic Speed Shop http://www.massmotorsports.com - ----- Original Message ----- From: Peter Gargano To: Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 10:33 PM Subject: Re: Sophisticated scan tool? > Okay, the story (from Wired News): > > > With a minor cable tweak, an engineer jerry-rigged > > his new, US$99 Net "appliance" into a fully functional > > Pentium PC. > > check: > > specs at http://www.netpliance.com/iopener/specs.asp > some pics at http://www.netpliance.com/iopener/tour1.asp > main URL at http://www.netpliance.com > > Now, for US$99, or with a 2 Gb HDD ~ US$200, this guy has > a Pentium (without a floppy). > > I figure at this price, plus a bit of software, this has > to be the ultimate base for a "scantool". > > Okay, I admit the EFI content was limited, but if I had > access to one of these units, I'd be buying it with a view > to using it in a vehicle, either as a "sacntool" or some > other diagnostic/tuning role. > > Someone want to buy one for me (I'll pay you back, honest)? > > > PG. > > mike mager wrote: > > > > Peter, > > I accessed the page via your hyperlink, and found "An I-Opening Hack: $200 > > PC", nothing about a scan tool; suggestions? > > > > Thanks, > > Mike > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 07:35:06 -0700 From: bearbvd@xxx.net (Greg Hermann) Subject: Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. >Roy wrote: >> ... >> On the subject of water pumps for water injection. >> ... > >Hasn't someone invented a water pump that works off engine >vacuum, yet? Can't be much more than a diaphragm and a >couple of valves, perhaps a spring and some other bits >for pressure regulation. This technology would last forever >in an H2O and hot air environment of an engine bay. > >PG. There are industrial grade air and vacuum operated diaphram pumps--but the weight would match your engine, and the cost would dwarf it! Greg - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 08:32:40 -0700 From: "Programmer" Subject: Re: 18mm sparkplugs AHA !! Lyndon. - -----Original Message----- From: Dave Williams To: diy_efi@xxx.org> Date: March 17, 2000 7:26 AM Subject: 18mm sparkplugs - -> Why did Ford use 18mm sparkplugs in 'late-model' engines, when pretty - -> much no-one else did? Not a trick question, I am curious. In the SAE paper on the German-designed 2000 OHC 'Pinto' engine, Ford said they went from 14mm to 18mm plugs because the 14mm plugs had a tendency to foul when the engine was operated for very short periods of time, as in when driven on and off the transporters and in the dealer lots. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 23:58:52 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Color Tune - Safety Warning ! At 02:30 PM 16/3/2000 PST, "mike mager" wrote on diy_efi@xxx.org :- >There is a 'view scope' with it in the box; it is just a tube to extend it >a bit, and to block the ambient light, and there is a little adjustable >mirror on it for sparkplug holes that are at bad angles. One comment for anyone using this - especially with an engine under load or even at no load for that matter, if its not on the packet or the info has since been lost... Don't look - in line of sight with the spark plug - just in case the quartz fractures and it goes in your eye, the little mirror supplied with the unit is for that specific purpose - so you *don't* ever look "Straight" in line with the plug. Even safety glasses may not help you - because it depends on the safety lens rating - some are 'low' impact etc. Even the so called high impact ones might come from some country where 'high' means "good enough" in their language and hence puts you at risk from losing an eye - especially under load... So please please, use the mirror at all times and only use the Colour Tune for short periods - it does get rather hot... Rgds ~`:o) Mike Massen Trading as "Network Power Systems" and "Network Computers" Perth, Western Australia Ph +61 8 9444 8961 Fx +618 9264 8229 (fax -> email) Products/Personal/Client web area at http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus (Current pics - trip to Malaysia to install equipment in jungle power site) Some say there is no magic but, all things begin with thought then it becomes academic, then some poor slob works out a practical way to implement all that theory, this is called Engineering - for most people another form of magic. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 00:00:26 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: sparkplug reading - Color Tune At 06:49 PM 16/3/2000 -0500, Shannen Durphey wrote: >Spark plug with a "window". I have one. It's not for high rpm use, >or sustained loads, or high temp stuff. Reach and heat range never >actually match the plug you're replacing. But the idea is to watch >the flame color to tune a carb. It's fun, and it can work at times. >Really neat to use on efi, watch flame color go from yellow to blue as >the ecm cycles lean to rich. Eastwood Co. sells 'em. They're on the >web. Do you have a precise web address, I could do with a few more... Rgds Mike Massen Ancient Sufi saying: "Should your God save you from adversity, choose another God" Pictures of site installation at Mendulong near Sipitang, Sabah (Malaysia) for container based RAPS... http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus Vehicle modifications on GMH Turbo, twin tyres, possible 175Kw at wheels Preliminary pictures at http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus/Twin_tyre_vehicle/ My editorial on twin-tyre opinion and good reference about tyres:- http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/ttyreopinion.html - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 00:31:32 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Sophisticated scan tool? At 12:39 AM 17/3/2000 -0500, you wrote: >I can't seem to get there from here. >Shannen Some browser links don't like commas in URLs, so copy paste it into your browser URL entry, Works for me, Rgds Mike >mike mager wrote: >> >> Peter, >> I accessed the page via your hyperlink, and found "An I-Opening Hack: $200 >> PC", nothing about a scan tool; suggestions? >> >> Thanks, >> Mike >> >> >From: Peter Gargano >> >Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.org >> >To: diy_efi@xxx.org >> >Subject: Sophisticated scan tool? >> >Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:31:02 +1100 >> > >> >Heard about the US$99 scan tool? : >> > >> > http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,34977,00.html >> > >> >Well maybe? >> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the >> >quotes) >> >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org >> > >> >> ______________________________________________________ >> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com >> >> - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) >> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 18:28:23 +0200 From: yaron sadot Subject: malpasi whistle why does my malpasi boost valve whistle & how do i stop it? happens om idle or mi rev tx1000 yaron - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 00:58:22 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! At 06:50 AM 17/3/2000 -0500, you wrote: >-> Are there any good suggestion for low-cost repair parts for a >-> turbocharger? The application is a friend's 1980 Porsche 924 Turbo. > > I just rebuilt two AiResearch turbos for a total cost of $62, including >having both rotating assemblies balanced. Bearings and 'piston rings' >are cheap. You can buy other parts as required. Kits with all the >goodies run $100-$150 for most turbos. Blimey in Perth we are being ripped off big time. To replace bearings and balance on the latest "VST" dynamic balancer is around A$800 *and* on a 'care but no responsibility' clause. They say their balancers cost around A$35,000 each (blah) (blah), to change T3 wheels to T4 wheels and machine the housings is around A$1300 !! Surely a centrifugal air pump off a 3 Kw eletric motor and balancing LVDT ain't going to cost that much... I think I could build one for less then A$5K I'd be interested in building my own turbo balancer - shouldn't be that hard - any comments on this ? The most common turbos in Perth seem to be Garrett's T3, T28 and T25 with a few T4 starting to appear - are these similar to Air-Research's units ? > I've been getting my parts from the local Diesel truck turbo place, >which has had everything I've needed in stock. There's probably some >similar place near you. The worst case scenario (assuming the turbo >didn't die catastrophically) is a worn center housing. These can be >reamed and you can get oversize bearings, or the turbo place may have a >used center section; most of them seem to have a supply of used parts on >hand. Wish our distributors were that well organised, for diesel to petrol turbo spares - its all pretty much separate over hear as far as I can see, > They're no big deal to work on. Just use lots of penetrating oil to >help break through the rust and take your time. I used to use a bath of penetrating oil with an ultrasonic transducer underneath - works wonders - though *don't* use if with aluminium ;-) Rgds Mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 01:14:17 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. At 12:04 AM 17/3/2000 -0800, you wrote: >Hi all > >On the subject of water pumps for water injection. > >Instead of using a pump to pump the water at the >required pressure through the injector, why not >pressurise the water container using one of those 12 >volt tyre pumps that are a lot cheaper. This way the >electric pump is not going to fail due to water >ingress and you can control the bottlem pressure using >a simple pressure switch. Yeah (?) Could be feasible - though would need a strong container if it were large and a pressure switch to keep the tank pressurised to a minimum amount otherwise it would take too long to raise pressure if left at atmospheric - as I recall those tyre pressure unit's flow rate wasn't high. I say strong because I'd need around 30psi or so (turbo boost is 10psi going up to 20psi when I get the rest done, so actual nozzle pressure at max boost needs to be high enogugh to atomise) so that I could have good spray from readily available nozzles. A 2L plastic drinks bottle has a surface area of about 160 sq inches, at 30psi thats almost a tonne of force (probably go bang) so a steel container would be best for that, which adds weight and messing arounf with pipe fittings, etc The trick would be to find a large container (Well I mean large enough so I wouldn't have to refill it each couple of hundred Km's) and allow me to chill the water to around 2 deg C and ensure chilled water is also at the injection point - ie cylcing around to keep the nozzle cool - like the fuel rail in efi... Actually this would then allow those air/water hybrid nozzles which have very fine sprays, I'll have to think up a system diagram... Tah - hadn't thought of that - other then modifying my $20 air pump to take water and have it survive long enough ;-) Rgds Mike Massen Ancient Sufi saying: "Should your God save you from adversity, choose another God" Pictures of site installation at Mendulong near Sipitang, Sabah (Malaysia) for container based RAPS... http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus Vehicle modifications on GMH Turbo, twin tyres, possible 175Kw at wheels Preliminary pictures at http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus/Twin_tyre_vehicle/ My editorial on twin-tyre opinion and good reference about tyres:- http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/ttyreopinion.html - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 01:28:51 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Get 50Hp for free :) Hi Just goes to show some people have a lot of time on their hands, http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html This is not - I repeat not common practice in Australia ;-) Rgds Mike Massen Ancient Sufi saying: "Should your God save you from adversity, choose another God" Pictures of site installation at Mendulong near Sipitang, Sabah (Malaysia) for container based RAPS... http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus Vehicle modifications on GMH Turbo, twin tyres, possible 175Kw at wheels Preliminary pictures at http://www.wantree.com.au/~erazmus/Twin_tyre_vehicle/ My editorial on twin-tyre opinion and good reference about tyres:- http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/2195/ttyreopinion.html - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 18:08:17 +0100 From: robert.schofield@xxx.com Subject: Re: Color Tune - Safety Warning ! >Don't look - in line of sight with the spark plug - just in case the quartz >fractures and it goes in your eye, the little mirror supplied with the unit >is for that specific purpose - so you *don't* ever look "Straight" in line >with the plug. Mike, while I appreciate the quality of this as a safety warning, it is a bit over the top - the glass in the plug is almost a 1/3 of an inch thick of crystal thermal glass (Fireglass). Gunson's have been selling these for around 25 years without any problems, and there are sufficient safety warnings on the packaging for users to be aware of safety issues when using it. They do stress that it should not be used under load, only as a a diagnostic tool and low-stress tuning device. It is primarily intended for Carb tuning. It is designed to loose the centre electrode to stop firing the cylinder in the event it overheats, and the copper seat seal will oblate and blow past in over-pressure conditions. I am not stating it is fail safe, please note. Even the packaging states that the use of the mirror is optional - I rarely use it since vibration often renders the flame colour invisible in the mirror. If you go over the top with this type of warning, then I am sure people will just tend not to use it, and hence lose out on the use of a potentially very useful, cheap little tool. If people go ahead anyway and use it in an engine say, on a rolling road at high temperature and high revs, then it's their own lookout, and more fool them. Careful and prudent use of this plug for short periods of time produce good results, idiocy produces injury. I would be more scared of a piece of the engine letting go than the ColourTune. Having said that - I applaud your cautious stance, there is *absolutely nothing* more important than safety around car engines.... Rob Schofield - -- Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he will sit in a boat drinking beer all day. - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 02:14:00 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Color Tune - Safety Warning ! At 06:08 PM 17/3/2000 +0100, you wrote: >>Don't look - in line of sight with the spark plug - just in case the quartz >>fractures and it goes in your eye, the little mirror supplied with the unit >>is for that specific purpose - so you *don't* ever look "Straight" in line >>with the plug. > >Mike, while I appreciate the quality of this as a safety warning, it is a bit over the top - the glass in the plug >is almost a 1/3 of an inch thick of crystal thermal glass (Fireglass). Gunson's have been selling these for >around 25 years without any problems, and there are sufficient safety warnings on the packaging for users >to be aware of safety issues when using it. They do stress that it should not be used under load, only >as a a diagnostic tool and low-stress tuning device. mmmm - Mine is a tad different - looks like the glass is only about 1/8th" thick (if that) and has a grainy edge - which looks like a developing fracture - even though I've only used it about 15 times (about 15yrs)... I may very well have a jap/taiwanese copy :( Am I getting paranoid that this is one more thing to worry about, >It is primarily intended for Carb tuning. It is designed to loose the centre electrode to stop firing the >cylinder in the event it overheats, and the copper seat seal will oblate and >blow past in over-pressure conditions. I am not stating it is fail safe, please note. mmm - Looks like another difference there, bummer :( > Even the packaging >states that the use of the mirror is optional - I rarely use it since vibration often renders the flame colour >invisible in the mirror. mmm - hardly noticed that, I can see the colour quite well on a 4cylinder with fair vibration. I'd recommend using a better mirror perhaps - if yours has a plastic lens like mine perhaps it could be improved for better use... When I rev my six, there is an odd vibration at some speeds, then I just hold the black plastic tube but still use the mirror - gets rid of most of the vibration and does make it easier to see, though the basic colour is what we are really after - if the vibration chenges the colour then we have one *very* fast vibration which might have pleased Einstein ;-) >If you go over the top with this type of warning, then I am sure people will >just tend >not to use it, and hence lose out on the use of a potentially very useful, cheap little tool. Well using it through the mirror would be OK, I just have concerns that since mine looks doubtful then others might do that too - especially if they are copies or whatever, more risk etc >Having said that - I applaud your cautious stance, there is *absolutely nothing* more important than >safety around car engines.... Tah, Well, its the eyes I'm worried about - I have some experience from a friend that went through that when it could have been easily avoided, Rgds :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 02:20:04 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. At 09:11 PM 17/3/2000 +1100, you wrote: >Roy wrote: >> ... >> On the subject of water pumps for water injection. > >Hasn't someone invented a water pump that works off engine >vacuum, yet? Can't be much more than a diaphragm and a >couple of valves, perhaps a spring and some other bits >for pressure regulation. This technology would last forever >in an H2O and hot air environment of an engine bay. To get enough power you'd need a fair flow and differential sustained for long enough - you don't get something for nothing, I am guessing but if you'd want to use engine vacuum to extract the power to pressureise the water - such as with a eletric pump then it would choke the engine. Brake boosters and the like work real well because the flow is negligible and over a larger area etc - Looks neat but ain't that much option for sustained power draw AFAIK. Rgds :) mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 11:17:43 -0600 From: "alexpeper" Subject: Fw: DIY_EFI Digest V5 #107 Wow. Looks like the next hobbiest computer, cheaper than the basic-stamp. or you can salvage parts, make own laptop, internet server. Good enough for FI controller and scan tool. I am not yet sure how to flash a operating system. The article did say that iopener has plans for automotive unit. Note the $200 price includes hard drive and interface cable. $99 without. Alex Date: Thu, 16 Mar 2000 18:22:03 PST From: "mike mager" Subject: Re: Sophisticated scan tool? Peter, I accessed the page via your hyperlink, and found "An I-Opening Hack: $200 PC", nothing about a scan tool; suggestions? Thanks, Mike >From: Peter Gargano >Reply-To: diy_efi@xxx.org >To: diy_efi@xxx.org >Subject: Sophisticated scan tool? >Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 10:31:02 +1100 > >Heard about the US$99 scan tool? : > > http://www.wired.com/news/technology/0,1282,34977,00.html > >Well maybe? - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 12:33:24 -0600 From: "Dan Plaskett" Subject: Programming Basics 61 Corvette with 91 TPI and 6 speed Transmission Well I have a new chip for my 61 Corvette TPI project. 91 L98 Corvette with 6 speed transmission. I have the Data I/O chip burner communicating with the computer via promlink version 3.4 and I have been able to read the chip into RAM. I created a file called AXCN.bin and got a successful operation and a sumcheck that matched the chip when read and verified. I am confused however and believe I may have done something wrong. The file size is 88K. I thought that the size would be limited to 32K which is the size (I thought of the eprom). The I/O format selected in promlink is Motorola Exormax (this came up by itself). I tried to change that to binary but got an error message that I had selected an invalid format. There are 43 different I/O formats available but only a couple don't result in error messages. What about the file size? Does this seem right? When I'm sure this is OK I'll post to the incoming site but I certainly don't want to post something that isn't correct. Any ideas from you pros is certainly appreciated. Dan Plaskett - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 18 Mar 2000 03:39:42 From: "Mike (Perth, Western Australia)" Subject: Re: Programming Basics 61 Corvette with 91 TPI and 6 speed Transmission If its in a motorola format - it might be something like intel/hex or similar - in that case its ascii and as the full 32K wouldn't be used then 88K in ascii with all the padding could equate to whatever you downloaded... Can you use a suitable editor and see if its an ascii file, ie take a copy and put it into wordpad or the like - I'm not conversant with the motorola format but it could be 'S' records - anychance you can paste a few lines to the group ? Rgds Mike At 12:33 PM 17/3/2000 -0600, you wrote: >Well I have a new chip for my 61 Corvette TPI project. 91 L98 Corvette with >6 speed transmission. I have the Data I/O chip burner communicating with >the computer via promlink version 3.4 and I have been able to read the chip >into RAM. I created a file called AXCN.bin and got a successful operation >and a sumcheck that matched the chip when read and verified. I am confused >however and believe I may have done something wrong. The file size is 88K. >I thought that the size would be limited to 32K which is the size (I thought >of the eprom). The I/O format selected in promlink is Motorola Exormax >(this came up by itself). I tried to change that to binary but got an error >message that I had selected an invalid format. There are 43 different I/O >formats available but only a couple don't result in error messages. What >about the file size? Does this seem right? When I'm sure this is OK I'll >post to the incoming site but I certainly don't want to post something that >isn't correct. Any ideas from you pros is certainly appreciated. > >Dan Plaskett > >---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) >in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 22:08:38 +0000 From: mike crane Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Hi PG You wrote > Hasn't someone invented a water pump that works off engine > vacuum, yet? Can't be much more than a diaphragm and a > couple of valves, perhaps a spring and some other bits > for pressure regulation. This technology would last forever > in an H2O and hot air environment of an engine bay. Don't know, but they use small Mikuni diaphragm pumps triggered by "engine vacuum" with all fuels in carburetted racing go karts and marine engines. Work OK as fuel pumps in 70hp 250cc engines, and they are cheap! Regards mike - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 17:31:41 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: water into efi system before injectors. Crankcase pressure in a 2 stroke much different then any 4 stroke that I know of. Compare volumes of flow. Enduro karts carry how many gals for a days racing?. For a high output v-6 you need like 1 in 4 mins. Maybe doable, maybe Grumpy > > Hasn't someone invented a water pump that works off engine > > vacuum, yet? Can't be much more than a diaphragm and a > > couple of valves, perhaps a spring and some other bits > > for pressure regulation. This technology would last forever > > in an H2O and hot air environment of an engine bay. > > Don't know, but they use small Mikuni diaphragm pumps triggered by "engine > vacuum" with all fuels in carburetted racing go karts and marine engines. > Work OK as fuel pumps in 70hp 250cc engines, and they are cheap! > > Regards > mike > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 17:19:00 -0500 From: dave.williams@xxx.us (Dave Williams) Subject: Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! - -> Blimey in Perth we are being ripped off big time. To replace bearings - -> and balance on the latest "VST" dynamic balancer is around A$800 - -> *and* on a 'care but no responsibility' clause. You'd save money shipping them to the USA! Better yet, buy a balancing machine and undercut the competition; given those prices the profit margins could still be fat. - -> They say their balancers cost around A$35,000 each (blah) (blah), The one the local turbo place uses is a desktop version of my engine balancer - ball bearing rollers, a drive belt, and a strobe light. New engine balancers are around US$15K, I'd expect the turbo balancers to be a lot cheaper. Someone swift with electronics could probably just make his own. - -> I'd be interested in building my own turbo balancer - shouldn't be - -> that hard - any comments on this ? The common type uses two leaf springs. One end is fixed to the frame, the other has a block with a pair of ball bearings. From that end a rod runs down to a voice coil arrangement to measure displacement. The shaft spins up to its critical speed, displacement is shown on an analog meter, and the strobe is triggered, phase-shifted to show at maximum displacement. I spent several days poring over the manuals for my big Stewart Warner machine; I couldn't believe how simple it was, and kept looking for the gotchas... - -> I used to use a bath of penetrating oil with an ultrasonic transducer - -> underneath - works wonders - though *don't* use if with aluminium ;-) It's the exhaust housings that are all the problem. I use high temp antiseize and stainless steel bolts when I reassemble them. ==dave.williams@xxx.us====================================== I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you? my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM | who, who? =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 17 Mar 2000 19:04:58 -0500 From: "nacelp" Subject: Re: turbocharger repair - ripped off! Speaking of ultra fangleing. In a visit to where some hot tractors live, I saw a set of razor blades mounted in a fixture, similiar to what I used for slot car motors (in HS), but much wider. Also, the guy claimed to do his own turbos. I didn't see any high rent balancing eqipment anywhere. I have wondered if this was his balancing rig. His problems were driving over the crank, not turbo durability. Grumpy > -> Blimey in Perth we are being ripped off big time. To replace bearings > -> and balance on the latest "VST" dynamic balancer is around A$800 > -> *and* on a 'care but no responsibility' clause. > You'd save money shipping them to the USA! Better yet, buy a balancing > machine and undercut the competition; given those prices the profit > margins could still be fat. > -> They say their balancers cost around A$35,000 each (blah) (blah), > The one the local turbo place uses is a desktop version of my engine > balancer - ball bearing rollers, a drive belt, and a strobe light. New > engine balancers are around US$15K, I'd expect the turbo balancers to be > a lot cheaper. Someone swift with electronics could probably just make > his own. > -> I'd be interested in building my own turbo balancer - shouldn't be > -> that hard - any comments on this ? > The common type uses two leaf springs. One end is fixed to the frame, > the other has a block with a pair of ball bearings. From that end a rod > runs down to a voice coil arrangement to measure displacement. The > shaft spins up to its critical speed, displacement is shown on an analog > meter, and the strobe is triggered, phase-shifted to show at maximum > displacement. I spent several days poring over the manuals for my big > Stewart Warner machine; I couldn't believe how simple it was, and kept > looking for the gotchas... > -> I used to use a bath of penetrating oil with an ultrasonic transducer > -> underneath - works wonders - though *don't* use if with aluminium ;-) > It's the exhaust housings that are all the problem. I use high temp > antiseize and stainless steel bolts when I reassemble them. > ==dave.williams@xxx.us====================================== > I've got a secret / I've been hiding / under my skin / | Who are you? > my heart is human / my blood is boiling / my brain IBM | who, who? > =================================== http://home1.gte.net/42/index.htm > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -- > To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe from diy_efi, send "unsubscribe diy_efi" (without the quotes) in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo@xxx.org ------------------------------ End of DIY_EFI Digest V5 #109 ***************************** To subscribe to DIY_EFI-Digest, send the command: subscribe diy_efi-digest in the body of a message to "Majordomo@xxx. 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