Hi all,

I'm a new member to this group and I'd just like to say THANK YOU to
the person who started this group.

Hummm, on the "---Legalities" issue - - - Richard is quite correct
about ATF considering the Gatling as a Title 1 Firearm. However, if
a Gatling Gun "Hand Crank" is MORTORIZED, the "MOTOR", as the
Registered part, would then would become a Post Sample Machinegun,
would need to be Registered on a Form 2 by an 07/02 and would only be
Transferable via an L.E. Demo Request letter. At least that's what I
was told by Mr. Doug Craze at ATF Tec Branch.

Want it to rotate faster? Try using a smaller Drive Gear or
attaching a secondary Chain Drive with a "Faster" gear. To the best
of my knowledge, as long as the complete mechinism is operated "BY
HAND" (Manual) it is still a Title 1 Firearm.

By the way, even though I went to "Skool", I never have been able to
spell worth a damn. So, to keep the Spelling-Nazis off my butt,
could amyone advise me about an available Spell-Check for these posts?

Thanks again for this group,

Geo
***

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
| 16|10|2004-11-10 23:29:54|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Gatling type gun legalities?|

Think it was Mail call were they showed that the faster the
Gatling gun fired the larger the spread. But this was firing 45-70. Might
not be an issue with .22

At 12:06 PM 11/10/2004, you wrote:

| 17|13|2004-11-11 11:10:17|Mike Crimens|Re: The Gatling Gun Co.|

Richard,
Thank you for your response and for starting this Forum. Great
choice of lay out and user friendly. I found the 22L gat
manufacturer web site, but I'm interested in a full size replica,
probably a M1883 on an artillery carriage. I'm sure it will be
pricey, but unlike 2LT Parker, I'll settle for just one, not a
battery of 4 guns. I was hoping that The Gatling Gun Company was
still building and selling them but could never raise their web site.

Is anyone on the Forum aware of anyone who is currently building a
Span Am era (M1883) full size replica Gatling Gun?

Stay Safe,
Mike.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
know
manufacturer
them
possible.
replica

| 18|18|2004-11-12 17:40:00|Richard Thompson|Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents|

Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents from 1972 to the files section.
Gatling type patents/1972 stoner. Tiff format , file name is from us
patent office and can be searched on their site for the full size
file. Due to the large number of patents I have to post, I have
reduced the images by 50%.

| 19|19|2004-11-13 04:47:45|GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to GatlingGun |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the GatlingGun
group.

File : /Gatling Type Patents/Pistol/us004934244-008.tif
Uploaded by : panaceabeachbum <panaceabeachbum@... Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/files/Gatling%20Type%20Patents/Pistol/us004934244-008.tif

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

panaceabeachbum <panaceabeachbum@...| 20|13|2004-11-13 23:05:44|GuyW|Re: The Gatling Gun Co.|

Hi - what's with the Gattling gun .gifs that all I get is a red "x"?

-Guy-

| 21|13|2004-11-14 03:02:31|Scott A. Stephens|Re: The Gatling Gun Co.|

Some web browsers rather then give you a page not available or
their error give you an X

At 01:05 PM 11/13/2004, you wrote:

| 22|13|2004-11-14 03:15:27|Sluss1951@aol.com|Re: The Gatling Gun Co.|

OK - know how are we to read it ? Thank You, Conley

| 23|13|2004-11-14 04:25:30|Richard Thompson|Re: The Gatling Gun Co.|

Keep trying over the next few days, all the downloads are exceeding
the bandwidth limits set by yahoo.

| 24|18|2004-11-14 04:46:55|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents|

Just to ask since this seems to be the right group. I heard of a
Gatling type gun called a Hodkeges (Sorry not sure how to spell the name.)
gun. Fired exploding shells. Was used at one of the Indian
massacres. Think wounded knee. Saw the story on discovery some time
back. Wonder if any one has any info on it.

At 07:39 AM 11/12/2004, you wrote:

| 25|19|2004-11-14 15:17:51|GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to GatlingGun |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the GatlingGun
group.

File : /Gatling's Enduring Legacy (Vulcan & Minigun Development).pdf
Uploaded by : mspires1138 <mspires1138@... Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/files/Gatling%27s%20Enduring%20Legacy%20%28Vulcan%20%26%20Minigun%20Development%29.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

mspires1138 <mspires1138@...| 26|19|2004-11-14 15:19:43|GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to GatlingGun |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the GatlingGun
group.

File : /Project Vulcan (Vulcan & Minigun Development).pdf
Uploaded by : mspires1138 <mspires1138@... Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/files/Project%20Vulcan%20%28Vulcan%20%26%20Minigun%20Development%29.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

mspires1138 <mspires1138@...| 27|19|2004-11-14 15:21:05|GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to GatlingGun |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the GatlingGun
group.

File : /The Minigun in Vietnam.pdf
Uploaded by : mspires1138 <mspires1138@... Description :

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/files/The%20Minigun%20in%20Vietnam.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

mspires1138 <mspires1138@...| 28|18|2004-11-14 15:23:00|Richard Thompson|Re: Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents|

The hotchkiss was designed by Benjamin Hotchkiss of Conneticut, who
worked at colt and made quite a few improvements to the colt
revolver. He was the head of the city arsenal in new york in 1863.
None of his designs recieved much attention here, he opened a
factory in france in 1875 to produce his new gun. 5 barrels, similar
to gatling but his own design was complete in 1881.It was 1.5 inch
bore, over 10,000 sold for naval use in all major countries of the
day. Hotchkiss died in 1885, all the later hotchkiss machine guns
developed bare his name but were designed by the staff.

I have some really nice picks of a couple of Hotchkiss revolving
naval cannons to post just need to get a scanner up and running.
Richard Thompson

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
the name.)
time
section.
us

| 29|18|2004-11-14 15:30:14|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents|

Quite correct Richard. I uploaded some PDF files on the development of the Gatling Gun to present day. Hope they will be useful to the group. I myself am into the modern aspect of the weapon like the M134 and 5.56 "Six-pack." And let us not forget the "big" boys too!

The Omega Man

| 30|30|2004-11-14 17:50:20|Richard Thompson|Other Gatling/revolving barrel type guns|

I thought I might bring up the names of a few other crank type guns,
never know what might spark intrest. Most of whats listed here was
info pulled from 1966 and 1973 small arms of the world, later
versions seem to omit most of the handcrank info. The rest has come
from the internet and variuos books I have read on the guns. I am
sure that there are all sorts of errors (besides my spelling) so
feel free to let me know where errors exist and I will update.

The Puckle
British 1718, My understanding of this gun is that it consist of
either 5 or 9 rotating barrels , which revolve around a basic
axle.One touch hole. The chambers were in a seperate cylinder like a
hand held revolver and could be swapped for a fresh cylinder when
the first was spent. Patent called for round bullets for christians
an d sqaure for the heatherns'.

The Barnes.
Crank operated design by CC Barnes of Massachusetts, 1856. The gun
used linen cartridges and precussion caps for ignition. Cap was
placed on the nipple mechanicly by the gun after closing the
breach.Breech lock was basic toggle mechanism attached to the
crank.Single barrel as beast I can tell. Never entered production.

The Ripley.
Designed by Ezra Ripley of Troy NY.
A number of barrels around a common axle. This gun had removable
cylinders which were loaded by like a black powder revolver and
could be quickly swapped when empty. This is the one most credited
with sparking the idea for the Gatling.

The Ager Coffe Mill Gun
Hand cranked .58 caliber, single fixed barrel. Precussion ignition,
ammo was a steel sleeve with nipple at rear, open at front for
loading. Cartridges were loaded in the top in a big hopper.Licoln
decided to pass on purchasing this one and left it up to the army to
make the decision.

The williams
Only bringing this one up due to method of operation(crank), and the
fact that it was the first machine gun to see actual battle. Single
fixed barrel , 1.57 inch bore, no magazine. The Confederate Bureau
of Ordanace adopted this one at the onset of the civil war.Paper
cartridges were dropped in the top of the gun by an assistant who
had to get in time with the reciprocating bolt. Rate of fire was 65
shots per minute.Guns under Capt Williams control were used by
Picketts brigade in VA. They recieved considerable use thruout the
civil war.

I have most of the drawings completed on this one to construct as a
1" gun at some point.

The Gardner
I will leave this one to others with more knowledge. Check the links
section. Accepted in great britan, US had no real interest. William
Gardner designed and built in 1874 and was unable to finance the
project. Production was turned over to Pratt and Whitney on royalty
basis.Twin barrels hand cranked. Britts bought a bunch to supliment
the gatling. Gardner was cheaper s, simpler to build and due to its
lighter wieght was easier to deploy. The Robertson modification was
later done to use smokless powder cartridges from a belt but was
quickly abandoned when the maxim hit the scene.

The Lowwell
Similar in apperance to the gatling but quite different. Built in
Lowwell Mass in 1875. Our navy as well as the Russian s bought a few
but self powered guns were the new thing of the day.

The Wilder
1876 ,Fewer barrels and related parts made this one more reliable
than the gatling but inventor turned to development of 37mm cannon
and died before the projects end.

The Bailey
1874, One produced by winchester in .32 cal , 170 gr at 1400 fps.
similar to gatling but used a belt fed mechanism .
I have read two accounts of the feeding mechanism.1) In Small Arms
of the World 1966 it states "The amazing feature in the belt
feeding was that the rounds were never removed from the belt as it
passed through a conveyor and was fed through the gun for firing"
The second account from a civil war website stated that the
cartridges were pushed thru the belt,fired , then extracted and
released as the bolt retracted thru the belt. I have not found any
other info but would love to know more about this one.

The Gatling , concived in 1851, patented 1862.First guns were an
improvement of the Ager and Ripley and used paper cartridges, could
be adapted to use preloaded, reusable steel cartridges. The first
factory was destroyed by fire along with all drawings and work on
six guns. Gatling raised more money and set up shop in Cinn Ohio.12
guns were produced. At this point the decission was made to switch
to the then new copper cased rimfire cartridge.Numerous changes were
made to handle the new cartride.This second gun had six barrels and
was .58 cal rimfire.Because of Gatlings loyalty to the south his gun
was ignored . General Butler ordered 12 guns on timber with 1000 rds
each for $12000.These guns were used at Petersburg,Va.Future
purchases were blocked. I believe all the guns to this point had a
chamber seperate of the barrel , leaving a gap.
1865 Gatling contracted with Cooper Firearms, frankford Pa
chambers now cut in barrel,crank moved from the rear to the right
side of the gun. Passed US army test in 1864 and changes were
patented in 1865.Frankford Arsenal developed the 1" gun. 1867
Gatling contracts with Colt to build 100 guns.
The next gun was the 50 cal centerfire and adopted as the model 1865.
The design was then licensed to W.G. Armstrong of England and
Paget&Company of Vienna and was built as six and ten barrel variant
in various calibers. The Russians produced some also called
Gorloff's.

Gatling later worked on designing different feed mechanisms and
final development is stated to have worked on gas operating
mechanism of some sort. Havent found any patent drawings on this
one. Later models were chambered in 30-40 krag and then .30-06 but
not adopted for milatary use. Rate of fire was reported of nearly
3000 rpm. It only took ammo feed devices about 70 years to catch up
with Doc Gatling.

Well this is about as much as I can write without directly qouting
small arms of the world. Please feel free to post what you know
about any of these guns. Richard Thompson

| 31|18|2004-11-14 18:02:26|Richard Thompson|Re: Uploaded stoner revolving gun patents|

Modern gatling type guns are cool too, just the latest generation of
a great design.I got to really look over the whole ammo feed
mechanism and gun assembly from an A10 about 15 years back at a
company that designed the ammo loader. They had one of the two guns
checked out to them strapped to a wood pallet in the back of the
shop for a number of years. On one trip thru I took a camera but the
guy at the front desk took it upon entry and it had no film when I
got it back. Richard

| 32|32|2004-11-15 16:32:16|superfluities1|Can't open files|

I can't open any of the "files".It says "you are not
authorized".What am I doing wrong?

| 33|32|2004-11-15 16:54:33|Sluss1951@aol.com|Re: Can't open files|

The same Here ? - Thank you, Conley

| 34|32|2004-11-15 17:01:59|Richard Thompson|Re: Can't open files|

Thats whats displayed when we exceed the maximum amount of downloads
in an hour, should reset shortly but as soon as about a dozen files
in total are downloaded it will give the same message. All the files
are fairly large so it doesnt take many downloads. Tonight I will
create another section for file sharing that should help.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "superfluities1"

| 35|32|2004-11-15 17:34:43|Richard Thompson|Re: Can't open files|

If you have already downloaded the files and still cant view them
you should download an appropriate viewer. Some of the files are in
tiff format. Windows xp has a photo viewer that you can view them
with . Other operating systems i am not sure. I use paintshop pro. I
can convert som to jpg later and repost If that will help.
RichardThompson

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
files
files

| 36|32|2004-11-15 17:36:45|Richard Thompson|Re: Can't open files|

| 37|32|2004-11-15 17:37:28|Charles Keeney|Re: Can't open files|

Attachments :

Same, too. I belong to quite a few groups and this one is the only one
that I have this problem (with the qualifier that there was one group that
I had trouble with briefly but I believe the owner must have done something
because the problem ceased.) Some of these had a lot more members than
this group and large files as well.

I have gotten the "You are not authorized message about a score of times.
Curiously, I was able to "access" the files about four different times. Of
those approximately four times, three of those occasions resulted in a
blank page with an "X" box in the upper left-hand corner but no image. The
fourth time I right-clicked instead of left clicking and down-loaded the
file and could then look at it in a separate image viewer.

I am suspicious of the problem being we are exceeding bandwidth because
there are only 70 of us and I have been having this problem continuously
(with the four exceptions) since 9Nov including early mornings on the east
coast.

On the good side, I am interested in old technology and the one page that
downloaded was enjoyable to examine.

In case anyone will be in the Washington D.C. area, the National Firearms
Museum in the NRA Headquarters in Fairfax, Virginia had a Gatling gun on
display a few years ago. It still may be on display - I don't know.
According to this page, it was the one used by John Wayne in the movie
Rooster Cogburn:

http://www.jcs-group.com/oldwest/guns/guns.html

Here is the link to the National Firearms Museum:

http://nra.nationalfirearms.museum/

Charles

"superfluities1"
GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
net Subject: [GatlingGun] Can't open files
11/15/2004 09:32
AM
Please respond to
GatlingGun

I can't open any of the "files".It says "you are not
authorized".What am I doing wrong?

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| 38|38|2004-11-15 17:40:46|Richard Thompson|link to a free tiff viewer|

http://www.alternatiff.com/

above is the link to a tiff viewer plug in that should solve the
viewing problems alot of you are having. Its free but you have to
register it to use it. Once installed it wont time out or trigger
any popups. This is the viewer reccomended by the us patent and
tmark office. It also will allow you to view all the patent drawings
at www.uspto.gov

| 39|39|2004-11-15 17:45:17|Charles Keeney|Re: Can't open files - Regarding attachments on last message|

I don't know where those attachments came from - I guess Yahoo - but not
from me. When I attempted to open them they were blank. Yahoo certainly
seems to have the bandwidth for all those d*mn*d attachments.

Charles

| 40|32|2004-11-15 20:29:14|Richard Thompson|Re: Can't open files|

I just logged on to the files section with my wifes computer and I
get the same red x place holder instead of the file. I loaded the
alternatiff plug in from my other post and now all the files are
visible. I think that should solve most of the problems. I can
upload all the files in a different format, maybe gif if that would
be better. I notice yahoo auto resizes anything with the jpg
extension to tiny to print, let me know what the best format would
be.

I posted a link to a guy that has built one of the Williams Guns,
full scale. Hope its somewhere on my end of the country.
Richard Thompson

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Charles Keeney" only one
group that
something
than
times.
times. Of
in a
image. The
loaded the
because
continuously
the east
page that
Firearms
gun on
know.
movie
GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
cc:
[GatlingGun] Can't open files
09:32

AM

to

GatlingGun

Service.

| 41|41|2004-11-16 18:31:49|Richard Thompson|more files 2 upload, what format?|

Hi, I have about 40 more sets of patent drawings to upload ,
revolving(pun) around the gatling gun type firearm. I am trying to
get them in order to upload but need to make sure its a format
everyone is capable of viewing. I like the tiff format.. Its also
the format the US patent office uses and is real easy to work with.
I am leaving pic/file names the same so you can just use it in the
search engine at patent office. Name search there only goes back to
the mid seventies so youll need the number or classification. If
anybody knows the all class codes they use that revolving barrel
guns would be stuck in please post it here since thats the best
search method. I know most stuff I have found has been in 89/12 but
there are so many subcatogories depending on what the paticular
patent relates to that some help would be great here. Lots of the
patents refer to similar ag planting and harvesting equipment, some
look useful for planting ideas on how to handle ammo since a lot of
the focus is on how to sort and stack with a revolving assembly. I
am not posting any real info on Gatling history since the mechanical
aspect of these guns is my intrest. It would be nice if someone
would like to jump in and load us down with more history on the
guns. I have some really neat drawings from the 1920's and 30's but
other than the GE project in the 50's cant find any real post WW1
history for the design. Richard Thompson

| 42|42|2004-11-18 05:58:43|fifteeninsubs|a little gun humor for us all|

Sad how many of these applied to me.. but this is meant jokingly so
take it as such

You might be a "Gun Nut" if:

-----you have ever loaded a drawer up with so much ammo that you
can't open it
-----when someone asks how many guns you have, you have to think
about it for a minute
-----you have ever bought ammo in a caliber that none of your guns
fire
-----the guns you took to the range cost more then your car
-----you carry a different gun every day of the week
-----whenever you can't decide which gun to get, you get both
-----you get your wife/girlfriend to wear Hoppes 9 instead of her
usual perfume.
-----you take so many guns to the range and don't shoot half of them.
-----you have an extra room in your house just for ammo and guns.
-----your home page is set to a firearms related webpage.
-----you count the number of bullets that people shoot in a movie
and then scream a top of your lungs BULLSH**!!! when a guy using a
revover mows down a battalion of criminals without reloading.
-----if you regularly find guns around the house and in far corners
of the safe that you have no memory of buying ... and such
discoveries no longer surprise you.
----- you know more about the Constitution than your lawyer.
----- your wife leaves you and you don't mind. Your dog gets run
over by a truck and you barely flinch. But you accidentally drop
your favorite gun, gets scratched and you cry a river.
----- if you ever thought to do your own "Gun Buy-Back" program.
Let's face it, even a Saturday Night Special for a $20 Blockbuster
Gift Card is a good deal.
----- if you have more holster than Imelda Marcos had shoes.
----- if you never stop looking for pre-ban hi-cap magazines... even
in a supermarket.
-----if you can field strip any firearm you own hanging upside down
and blindfolded
-----if you have ever bought a gun to fill an old holster someone
gave you. (So many times I can no longer count 'em.)
----- if you have ever bought a gun to shoot up a half-filled 20-
round box of ammo someone gave you, because you didn't have a rifle
in that caliber yet. Ditto for when someone gives you an old set of
reloading dies in some obscure caliber.
-----if you have ever accidentally run a pocket pistol through the
wash and spin cycles, still in your pants pocket.
----- if you do not own a single fabric-based item (clothing, bags
or suitcases) that does NOT set off the explosives trace detector at
the airport.
-----if you have ever bought a gun that is identical to TWO you
already own, because the first two are out-of-production NIB
examples and you can't bring yourself to shoot them.
-----When buying something with pocket change, you have to pick the
dimes and quarters out of a handful of loose ammo.
-----if you have ever busted a spring on your car from piling too
much ammo in the trunk on the way to a shoot.
-----For you NFA junkies: You know the birthday of your BATF
examiner, even though you can't remember your wife's.
-----if you have ever researched a firearm you own to find out the
date it was manufactured ... and then thrown a birthday party for it.
-----if you go to WalMart for back-to-school supplies, then must
explain to your wife why that includes 1 box of 9mm Win. .
-----if your dog is "Dog" and your cat is "Cat," but each of your
guns has a name. (Well, at least the guns you're closest to -- ya
know, the ones you've bonded with.)
-----when you say "Damn ! That is a sexy looking piece!", your wife
knows you are not looking at another woman.
----- whenever you see a story on TV about a gator spotted in a
neighborhood, you think "Crap, there goes another target of
opportunity."
----- if your AR, after installing all the new gadgets, now weighs
more than a FAL.
----- if any time a wheather person on TV gives the latest update on
the hurricane du jour, you wonder if you have enough ammo.
----- if your hurricane panels have shooting ports.
-----if you have to have additional homeowner's insurance
specifically for firearms.
-----if the cops have ever called Homeland Security after pulling
you over
-----if you have ever carried more then two guns at once
-----when the local gun shop needs an obscure magazine, they call you
-----when you call your local rep's office, the guy who answers
groans and says "I'll tell him again not to vote for AWB" as soon as
he hears your name
-----if you have more holsters then pants
-----if the movers all groan when they see your gunsafe
-----if you spend half an hour bitching about how the good guy in
the movie killed 20 badguys firing full-auto from the hip
-----if your spend another half an hour explaining how the movie
would have been over in 10 minutes if any of the bad guys victims
had a gun
-----if you regularly just sit and stare at your guns for a while,
and the rest of your family doesn't find this strange
-----if you reach into your pocket for change at the local 7-11 and
pull out loose ammo along with your change.
-----if the guy working at the 7-11 knows you and isn't surprised.
-----if you have a poster of Burt Gummer holding an 8 bore rifle.
("Guess you broke into the wrong God damn rec room, didn't ya!")
-----if you can actually take a nap in a gun range.
-----if you felt a knot in your stomach when they showed US Soldiers
destroying a cache of brand spanking new AK-74 on the news
-----if you considered that the cheaply goldplated HK MP-5 was
reason enough to oust Hussein.
-----When you mount a tripod, bayonet and flash suppressor to your
N.A.A. 22 MINI MAG
-----If you do a complete breakdown of all your weapons just to stay
in practice - "especially if you haven't made it to the range lately"
-----if you find more .22LR than loose change when you clean out
your car.
-----if your nightstand is stacked with gun rags and firearm
technical and reloading manuals.
-----if you build a portable reloading system so you can reload in
the family room and not miss your favorite tv-show.
-----if the local SWAT teams stop by your house for guns and ammo
before heading out to the big bust.

| 43|42|2004-11-18 13:54:39|Richard Thompson|Re: a little gun humor for us all|

Thats funny stuff, I have gone as far as duplicating my reloading
setup so I can sit in the motel and reload on family vacations.I
must admit most of these apply to me also.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "fifteeninsubs" so
them.
corners
even
down
rifle
of
at
the
it.
wife
on
you
as
and
Soldiers
stay
lately"

| 44|44|2004-11-18 16:44:40|Richard Thompson|New files uploaded|

I have added 3 more sets of patent drawings to the files section.
One is the original Gatling patents, 1865 I believe. The second is a
set from Gatling dated 1871. These are the only Gatling patents I
know of other than ag equipment. I really need to know if there are
others.

The third set of patent drawings are the recent patent from Metal
Storm. This ones a volley gun not a revolver or hand crank but with
all the recent press I had to post. For those not familier, its a
bunch of barrels strapped together with caseless ammo stacked one on
another and elec fired, leading layer of rounds fired first.

I have seen this guy on a couple of tv programs stating this is a
new Idea and how no one has ever thought of it etc. I know the
Chinese, French, and Russians have all fielded black powder volley
guns which work on the same principal minus the electrical firing.
I bought plans out of shotgun news in the 80's for a pistol called
the zippyboy which worked exactly the same and used a bunch of model
rocket ignitors spaced in a cartridge you rolled. I think at the
time ATF considered the design a machine gun and dont know of one
ever bieng built. I guess its not who has the idea but more who
thinks to patent it first, kinda like the wheelbarrow Paul Harveys
always talked about. Richard Thompson

| 45|38|2004-11-20 03:07:13|GuyW|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

Hmm - still get nothing but red x's....and I don't have that problem
anywhere else in 'netland...

-Guy-

| 46|38|2004-11-20 03:33:04|deejeenee|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

Rename the file extensions from gif to tif.

| 47|38|2004-11-20 15:59:45|Richard Thompson|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

Which files are you having problems with? The 1905 colt drawings
are .gif and all the patent drawings are .tiff, are all the files
showing up as red Xs ore just certain ones? I just went thru all the
files on this computer and another and cant see a problem, did you
install the tiff viewer plugin? If so were you able to see the image
at the bottom of the page you downloaded it from? Anybody else still
having problems?When I get a little time I will upload them in zip
format , 1 file per set of patent drawings. Richard

| 48|48|2004-11-20 16:04:31|Richard Thompson|Antique Ordinance Publishing?|

Antique Ordinance Publishing? I printed the 1905 30 cal Gatling
blueprints last night, sometimes easier to process from paper. I
noticed hand written across the bottom in fine print is the name
Antique Ordnance Publ, Port Huron Mi. It mentions the assembly
drawings are in a book titled Handbook Of the Gatling Gun. I am
droping them a letter later today to find out more. Anyone have any
info on the company? RichardT

| 49|38|2004-11-20 16:14:04|Sluss1951@aol.com|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

Richard - I downloaed from the Link you posted - Works Know - Thank You, Conley

| 50|50|2004-11-20 19:20:41|oldjarheadfart|modern ammo build?|

Who to contact for plans on building a full size, old style looking,
modern ammo shooter, gatling gun. Thinking of 8mm, since it is so
cheap at this time. I'v looked at some web sites, but they sell only
black powder models, or 1/3 scale 22lr models. Anyone have some
suggestions?

OJF

| 51|38|2004-11-21 01:53:44|GuyW|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

That doesn't work for me....maybe I'm doing it wrong.

-Guy-

| 52|38|2004-11-21 05:37:05|GuyW|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

Rich: I can see all the files except the .gif's

yes, I downloaded that program and could read the lower portion...

Beggars can't be choosers, but I like .pdf's best....

-Guy-

| 53|38|2004-11-21 18:55:26|Richard Thompson|Re: link to a free tiff viewer|

I uploaded the 8 gif files as .tiff and .jpg files in a folder
labled colt blueprints

| 54|50|2004-11-22 00:42:57|brshooter2|Re: modern ammo build?|

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "oldjarheadfart"
only
I have a source, they are original colt drawings. Contact me off
site. Jon

| 55|48|2004-11-22 00:48:27|brshooter2|Re: Antique Ordinance Publishing?|

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
I have tried to contact them all so. I believe they are out of
business. If you get an answer let me know. Thanks

| 56|56|2004-11-24 15:16:44|Richard Thompson|legalities of civil war era gun designs?1" gatling OK??|

Does anyone know the legalities of building/owning civil war era gun
designs. I am familiar with the basic title 1 classification of
gatling gun operating mechanism. I am curious about the 1" gatling
in paticular. As I understand it the 1st and second models that used
black powder firing chambers that have to be hand loaded are totaly
legal to build and own, and can be purchased like any other black
powder gun . Thru net searching I have found a couple of civil war
buffs that have built a couple of 1872 patent gatlings in 1" bore.
Since this gun uses a metalic cartridge and is breach loading , how
is it classified? Due to bore size and cartridge type I would assume
it would be considered a destructive device like all those
wonderfull hotchkiss revolving cannons. One of the fellows I was
able to make contact with stated that since it was a replica of a
historic black powder firearm pre 18?? that it was exempt, and that
he and a friend had cleared the project with the appropriate agency
first. I guess since precedence has been set, no one has charged
them in 10 years of showing and owning the gun, that the 1872 can be
built in 1" bore. Help me out if I am wrong!!!!

I have always had interest in building the williams gun ,1.57 inch
breech loader. I ask one of the field agents a few years a go at a
gun show and was told it was "PROBABLY" exempt in rifled form due to
the fact that it used a paper and black powder cartridge and was of
civil waf era. I stamped the appropriate serial # and info on my
reciever blank at the time (1986) but have never further on the
barrel as I am still unclear on the rifled bore over .50 cal issue.I
have seen at least 4 of these guns built between 1" and 2" bore over
the past ten years, one with the help of the museum at west point so
I assume its clear to build. I know variances are made for the 4
and 8 bore double rifles as well as rifled shotgun barrels. I know
that the civil war reinactments give the gun a sporting purpose just
unclear on the rifling, maybe just go smooth bore to be safe. If
anyone could shed a little light please step up and tell us what
you know.
I must state i am not a lawyer and have very little knowledge of the
gun laws in our country, please due not take anything I say as fact.

RichardT

| 57|56|2004-11-24 18:37:42|Richard Thompson|Re: legalities of civil war era gun designs?1" gatling OK??|

I should clarify, I do not know anyone that has built or owns one of
these guns larger than 22lr cal. In my statement below about having
seen 4 guns built, I am refering to projects I have seen posted on
the net. Not people I know, just sites I have found. There is a link
to one company in the links folder that offers a .58 cal blackpowder
gatling and claims no ffl needed to purchase. My personal
understanding is that rifled over .50 cal is a destructive device
excluding the shotgun slug barrels and muzzle loaders. And if it
loads a fixed cartridge its a gun and you need an ffl dealer to do
the appropriate paperwork. As another member pointed out larger bore
guns can still be built after submitting the proper paperwork. The 1-
2" guns I am refering to are single shot smoothbore breach loaders
bieng used at civil war reinactments. Due to space(read cheap) and
not wanting to be in any grey area legaly I would end up building no
larger than .45 cal anyway. RichardT

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
used
totaly
how
assume
that
agency
be
inch
to
of
issue.I
over
so
just
the
fact.

| 58|56|2004-11-24 18:47:02|Dave A.|Re: legalities of civil war era gun designs?1" gatling OK??|

I would imagine it''s legal in a larger bore since they do sell inline balck powder muzzleloaders which have a removable breech plug for cleaning. The single shot breech loader could probably be built to muzzle load (cap nipple on back of breech block) and just use the breech opening for cleaning. If you make it catrridge fed, it becomes a modern firearm. If you made 'paper' cartridges,stuffed onein the chamber, and primed the block with a cap, I think it would still be okay- paper cartridges aren't what anyone considers a modern cartridge from a firearm

-Dave

| 59|56|2004-11-24 20:48:28|GuyW|Re: legalities of civil war era gun designs?1" gatling OK??|

Attachments :

I think that obsolete or previously non-existing cartridge chambering makes a firearm not-a-modern gun, as far as federal regs go.

-Guy-

| 60|60|2004-11-25 17:44:07|Derek Flint|Re: Digest Number 12|

Considering the bore issue. Maybe a 12 guage gattling
gun would be an interesting project. Imagine the
versatility between slug and shotshell.

Hmmm... I have started the .22 version based on the
british plans. But working time is aprox 400 hours
from where I am now. Working with a larger casing
like the .12 guage would actually give more tolerance
in design, and might easier to make.

Has anyone seen any free prints out there?

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - Get yours free!
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| 61|60|2004-11-26 15:50:43|Richard Thompson|Re: Digest Number 12|

The 12ga would be fun but atf would probably consider it a
destructive device like the street sweeper and gilbert usas 12 ga. I
think they(?) decided there was no sporting purpose. Since there
were no original 12ga gatlings it would be hard to convince them it
had historic value.I am not sure what the official batf standing on
this issue is. Until the rulings on the SSweeper and USAS I would
say go for it but with those guns bieng classified as dest devices I
would ask the batf tech branch in writing first. I personaly think
it would be a blast, slugs would let folks with shorter shooting
ranges still enjoy the big bore bang without the worry of sending a
slug into the next county. RichardT

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Derek Flint
| 62|60|2004-11-26 16:22:57|Sluss1951@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 12|

Do not take this the wrong way - But a Gatling is only - Semi - Auto - unless you put a motor on it ! 22cal - or 12 ga. the same ! thay make a 50cal blackpowder -that uses cartages - uses a hopper - civil war type - all input welcome - Thank You, Conley

| 63|60|2004-11-26 16:40:09|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 12|

Well, Conley, that is true. But depending on the crank mechanism and how fast you can move your arm you can still get a lot of lead out there. I think there was some very good improvement on the Gatling gun types over the decades that can account for this, especially "after" the Civil War days. As to what was the last model made before the Vulcan Project and G.E. Mini-gun prototypes took over, I have know idea. This could be good subjet matter for the group.

The Omega Man

| 64|60|2004-11-27 17:53:36|George Philpott|Re: Digest Number 12|

Would it be possible to use an "Up-Scaled" version of the .22 cal plans, for the 12 guage, and also reduce the number of barrels to only 5 or 6?

Now, although I'm not a Computer Wiz (actually far from it) I believe that Solid Works is a design software that will show the compatability of all parts/components of a design, while moving them within and around each other, so one can verify their compatibility.

So, would it be possible to draw the .22lr design in Solid Works, or similar software, and then resize the parts to 12 guage while also reducing the number of barrels?

In addition to the above, since the "94 AWB" is no longer in effect, one might also computer-design a rather large rotary type mag for this beast.

Flame away if you want to. I'm just offering the above for your consideration.

Respectfully submitted,

George Philpott

*******************

| 65|60|2004-11-27 20:28:49|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Digest Number 12|

         Yes and no. First you would need to put the .22 Gatling in SolidWorks. Once in SolidWorks you could then do a different configuration of it. The scaled up version. Change from 3 barrels to 12 etc etc etc.But at some point you would have to go threw and calculate the stresses on the metal since .22 verse a 12 gage. Also the extraction system might need a bit of twiking vs .22.

         Since I don't reload shotgun shells I have no clue what the pressure is for a 12 gage. Also what the difference is between the pressure a shot charge generates verses a slug. Their would need to be some work done.

         Note: Since I don;t do much with shot guns....Since a slug would need a riffled barrel to give it spin, wouldn't the shot charge over time ding up the rifling??? Or would the wad or holder protect the rifling?

At 07:53 AM 11/27/2004, you wrote:

| 66|60|2004-11-27 23:18:14|Mark Freeman|Re: Digest Number 12|

I don't know how legal this shotgun (?) would be, but It definately sounds like some classic rock and roll! Mark

George Philpott

Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! ï¿½ What will yours do?

| 67|60|2004-11-27 23:25:35|George Philpott|Re: Digest Number 12|

If one wished to use slugs they could use rifled slugs and keep the barrels as Smooth Bore Shotgun.

Fespectfully submitted,

Geo

*****

| 68|68|2004-11-28 05:49:43|Derek Flint|Re: Digest Number 15|
Hi,

Does anyone know what law actually banned the streeet
sweeper and USAS-12?

If it was the AWB, that lapsed, wouldnt it be ok now.
If I know what the law is, and can read it, there
should be a way to make it and still conform 100%. I
think smooth bore would be fine, and what if we sized
it down to .20ga or .410?

I have the .22 prints, and got a bargain on used .22
barrels with the exteriors bad, and lathed then down
already. I should have bought more, they were 5 for
$15, and I only got 10. All are usable, especially
considering I only need 12" sections. But the
problems of Rimfire, and small tight tolerances would
not be an issue If I went up to at least a .410,
probably only 6-8 barrels and it would look a bit
closer size wise to the originals.

If we go back to the .12ga, what if you loaded your
own shells with Pyrodex? Would that make it not a
modern round and excempt from some laws?

Ideas?
Thoughts?
Comments?

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do?
http://my.yahoo.com
| 69|68|2004-11-28 06:06:11|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 15|

These shotguns were not banned just register as DD's (Destructive Devices) and have nothing to do with the defunct AWB. All you need to do is find one and go through all the paperwork just like if you were buying a machine gun. After 6 months of red tape you then pay the $200 tax stamp and can own this big, over price, paper weight.

The Omega Man
| 70|68|2004-11-28 06:12:06|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Digest Number 15|
I don't think it was the AWB. They were reclassified as a
destructive device. Which is different from the AWB. I'd call ATF. The
Gatling might not fall under the same law since it is not mass
produced. Also the same people that brought us the street sweeper brought
out a pistol of the same design in 45-70 if I remember correctly. A
smaller version of the street sweeper with out a stock and classified as a
pistol. I've only seen pictures of it. Any one know if that was also
classified as a destructive device or if they just didn't sell well.

At 07:49 PM 11/27/2004, you wrote:

| 71|68|2004-11-28 06:23:17|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 15|

Correct, and just another stupid idea by our law makers for these shotguns to become DD's of all things. As to the pistol, I believe it was called the Thunder Five and could also be loaded with .410 shotgun shells. A nice survival weapon to store in your bug-out kit. There was no reclassification done to this pistol so you can still by it freely at any well supplies gun store or show.

The Omega Man
| 72|68|2004-11-28 06:55:48|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Digest Number 15|
Attachments :
         Is DD $200? I know class 3 is $200. I thought it was more for DD since their was more paper work.

At 08:06 PM 11/27/2004, you wrote:

| 73|68|2004-11-28 07:12:42|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 15|

You are paying the "Tax" just as with all NFA weapons. DD's and Class 3 weapons have the same tax at $200. If you were to buy a M16 then you pay $200, if you were to buy a M203 40mm Grenade Launcher you pay $200. This is after you first pay a non-refund third (in most cases) to the dealer of the price of the weapon. That is just in case your paperwork doesn't get approved by the BTAF and he has to sit on this weapon for 6 months waiting for the approval, which keeps others from buying it or if you change your mind.

The Omega Man
| 74|74|2004-11-28 15:04:39|Richard Thompson|12 ga gatling|
The issue of how the gun is powered is not a problem legaly, keep it
hand cranked and you are ok. The point I was bringing up about the
legality of a 12ga gatling was that in the recent past the batf has
decided that certain hi capacity shotguns are considered destructive
devices. AW ban or not the Gilbert usas and street sweeper (along
with a striker etc) are both semi auto(one shot per pull of trigger)
smooth bore shot guns that have been placed on the destructive
device list. They were not affected by the sunset of the aw ban,
still D-DEvices. If you read the atf rulings regarding these guns
they were banned simply because they suposidley do not have any
sporting purpose, and all shotguns with a capacity of over ten
rounds and hi capacity shotgun mags like the 25 rd snail drum for
those clip fed s-guns are lumped in this class if memory serves. I
believe that if a person created a 12 ga bore hand cranked gatling
gun that it would be largely unchallenged. Try to enter commercial
production for consumer sale and I bet the farm you would never get
it past the tech branch. I am certainly not trying to ruin the fun
just always try to stay on the right side of the law. If I am
reading atfs rulings incorrectly please correct me, I tend to err on
the side of staying away from jail and tend to be overcareful.

As far as the mechaninical aspect goes it should be relativly simple
to build in 12ga as the design of alot of the full size guns was to
accept a rimmed cartridge of roughly the same length (45-70). There
of course would need to be allowances made for the cartridge
diameter. The number of barrels could be reduced to keep the
diameter of the rotating assembly to a minimum. the mechanism works
the same no defference if you present one barrel to each station or
10 in turn.

I believe it would be easier to design the 12ga gatling around
drawings of a full size gun, alot less reverse engineering than
working from 22lr up. 12 ga working pressures is very low in the
world of modern cartridges.
The 12ga operates around 10,000 LUP (lead units of pressure) the 45-
70 is aprox 25,000 cup (copper units of pressure) 223 50,000 cup. 30
carbine 30,000 cup. Different method of measurment for shotgun
versus rifle. Quite a bit of work has been done with strain gauges
and piezo electric sensors for measuring chamber pressure recently
and PSI seems to be the popular method of chamber pressure readings
these days. I dont have the data in front of me but I believe 12ga
is around 3300-7000 psi versus 30,000-50,000 psi plus for most
metalic cartridges. My numbers might be a little off but there is a
huge difference in working pressure of shotgun shells and metalic
cart is huge.

I went on a quest to find proper seamless tubing for shotgun barrels
a few years back and found a manufacturer of hydraulic tubing that
was supplying hastings with the stock for there shotgun barrels,
working pressures upto 12,000 psi, yeild of aprox 25,000 psi.

Anyway just my thoughts on the subject, not trying to shoot down a
good Idea (i want one) just like to look at things from all the
angles. How about one in 37mm? Lots of neat flares and pyrotechnics
and since there are no lethal cartridges produced its not a firearm.
Virtualy no chamber pressure (sub 600 psi) would allow construction
of aluminum and delrin. Maybe a 3 barrel design, there are some
really neat rifled projetiles available. A single shot 37mm
launcher, 12" barrel, will lob these things about 400yds very
accuratly. RichardT
| 75|68|2004-11-28 16:20:05|Richard Thompson|Re: Digest Number 15|
The thunder five is another worthless piece from the same
company,swd, 45 long colt /.410 five shot. The gun mentioned in the
other post was a scaled down version of the street sweeper, not the
thunder five. It was called the Ladies Home Companion and was
chambered in 45 colt/.410 ,aprox 12" barrel rifled for legal
reasons, no butstock, 12 shots from an aluminum cylinder just like
the street sweeper and S-African striker which the street sweeper
was a cheap knock off of. The ladies home companion was listed when
it came out as bieng availabe in 45-70 but I doubt the one I held
and shot would have survived more than 3 or four rounds of 45-70.I
am not a fan of chambers cut in aluminum, tends to fail without
warning.
I have never owned any of the three guns mentioned but have fired
them all (friend with a gun store). The street sweeper is neat but
very cumbersome and not nearly as effiecient as a good benelli m3. I
think it was banned on perception and name alone.If you remember the
marketining it depicted a group of hand drawn bad guy standing under
a street light on a inner city street, daniels shot his own foot on
that one and the name. The thunder five (large 5 shot revolver)is a
big let down and not accurate with shotshells beyond about 25 feet,
The 5 pellet .410 buckshot loads on the other hand are really
impressive, gun is still a HEAVY diecast piece of... The little .410
street sweeper pistol on the other hand was just plain fun, like the
ss it had a horrible DA pull of about 1.5 inches but like a video
game once you found the sweet spot it could be dumped in a flash.
Fun but still worthless compared to a guy with a good .45. Its not
on the DD list as far as I know , one or two a year pop up on the
online auction sites and still trade around the original price of
$500. Original list was aprox $300 but the one the shop ordered was
near $500 due to demand. One BIG downside with the SS and Ladies
companion is the construction of the cylinder/lock mechanism. A
large spring you wind powers the cylinders rotation and a steel pawl
flies out at the appropriate time and stops the rotation of the
heavy aluminum cylinder indexing the loaded chamber and barrel. As
you can imagine the pawl places a great deal of stress on the notch
in the rear of the cylinder and after aprox 300 rds the street
sweeper we were shooting would fail to index properly and wouldnt
line up with the firiing pin/barrel axis any longer.At the time SWD(
Sara and Wayne Daniels) sent us a new cylinder for $35. The striker
used a steel index plate to avoid this problem and the ss may have
in later versions, not sure. The stock latch also broke and broke my
nose around the 200 round mark, never made it thru the 500 rd
torture test due to the gun simply wearing out around 300 rounds. At
the time the USAS came out I lived about 3 blocks from Gilbert Supply
(lawn mower store) in Mobile Al and got to look one of the
commercial guns over(korean I think, looked investment cast) as well
as a couple of prototypes (hand made) and was very impressed. I
never got to actually shoot one but based on wieght it didnt seem as
practical as a good ar or fal.Richard T

On a side note the company that built the guns was more interesting
than the guns. I cant keep up with all the names they have done
buisiness under, SWD, Cobray, daniels,Lienad (daniel backwords)and
about a dozen other variations and initials.RPB and the couple of
tenn groups are family I was told in the past. I met Wayne Daniels
about 17 years ago standing behind the Kengs (polytech importer)
booth at an Atlanta gun show. 60 minutes had recently done a piece
on him and his manufacturing business in Ga, mac 10 and a short
870.At the time he was very open and friendly, the last time I saw
him in the early 90,s he had been hardened and no longer allowed
anyone near any of his operations, the mail order side was moved
into a mini wharehouse. Only gun manufacturer I have met that wears
more gold than the value of the car he drives

| 77|74|2004-11-28 18:25:54|Richard Thompson|Re: 12 ga gatling|
I remeber buying law roc tubes for $8 at the shows and you couldnt
give them away.Plenty of subcaliber inserts but havent seen a
training rocket in years. Saw a clip on the news earlier this year
of a guy in one of the new england states having his house raided
and bieng arrested for having one and a dummy pineapple body. Sad

| 78|74|2004-11-29 01:34:06|Scott A. Stephens|Re: 12 ga gatling|
That is sad. Though usually their is more to the story to bring
the cops their then just a couple of dummy objects.

At 08:25 AM 11/28/2004, you wrote:

| 81|81|2004-11-30 06:54:02|Derek Flint|Re: Digest Number 16|
Thanks for all the thoughts. I still see no logic
behing why one 12guage is worse than another. But
thats government\politics NO LOGICAL THOUGHT PROCESS.

Im sure all of us know this whole thing boils back
down to not needing more laws, just nabbing the
criminals IN PROGRESS.

I say in progress because if any of you have looked at
the Patriot Act, it guts the constitution. At first I
thought it made sence, then I read it and though who
does it apply to.... EVERYONE. Opps, bad bad law.
There off building laws that dont target the specific
problem at its base.

I will probably take my .22 gatling notes, and email
my local ATF and ask what if this were sized up to
.410 as a home built gun. Im not gona buy anything
until i get something in writing before I begin.

Any more ideas? Gee what if make the feed magazine
only hold 10 rounds? Still would be fun, and fairly
cheap to shoot.

Later All!
--- GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com wrote:

http://us.click.yahoo.com/J8kdrA/y20IAA/yQLSAA/uVorlB/TM
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| 82|81|2004-11-30 09:33:05|Dave A.|Re: Digest Number 16|
I don't think .410 is normally regulated under their shotgun rules.
Notice you see .410 barreled pistols that aren't short barreled
shotguns. The reason they can get picky with shotguns is they are
usually larger than the .50 maximum specified, so they need to have some
sort of sporting purpose. they felt apparently, that the USAS and
street sweeper didn't.
I got to handle the still-legal Stret sweeper .45-70 'ladies' gun' at
the Reno show- it's an interesting conversation piece, but ladies' gun,
it is not.

-Dave

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| 83|83|2004-12-01 04:39:50|Joe|Gardner Gun on Television...2nd try|
Hopefully this won't show up as a second post. When I first tried
to send it, things blew up and I couldn't connect to the site.

Anyway, if you are interested in knowing more about the other manual
designs that were contemporaries of the Gatling, the Gardner gun is
going to be shown on American Rifleman Television on the 6th, 8th,
and 11th of December...next week. The times are 9 or 9:30am on the
6th, 5pm on the 8th and 9:30pm on the 11th. The show is aired on
the Outdoor channel.

I had the privelege of being interviewed for the show in May and
have been eagerly awaiting the opportunity to see it, having missed
it the first time around. My copy actually arrived just today and I
think it came out pretty good. Lots of footage of the gun being
fired and there's even a little bit showing the internals of the
design. The gun being filmed is the full-size replica being made by
Dave Cumberland and Doug Schrode. It's a beautiful gun and lots of
fun to shoot...even my wife had fun shooting it.

If you really want to get sick, the place we were shooting at had
something else you might wish to have seen. An original Colt's
gatling on a cone mount with an Accles drum just sitting in the
garage next to the lawn mower! I almost cried!

Well, I need to get back to the shop. Enjoy and take care!

Joe
www.gardnerguns.com
| 84|84|2004-12-01 07:18:29|Kenneth A. Emmert|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
I have yet to get pictures to download from group files. Everything else
works except those plans! There is one group selling plans has anyone
purchased? What are you thoughts on plan quality?
I am going to take on construction of a 22 cal version. From my reading
this is not a short project! Though fortunately I have a well tooled
machine shop is at my disposal.

Ken
| 85|84|2004-12-01 15:23:45|Richard Thompson|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
I uploaded the colt plans as .jpg and .giff also to try to make it
easier. If you need I can just email them to you. So far I have
only layed eyes on the plans from RG-G, I have a set due from D+E
but santa says I have to wait. One fellow I talked to on the net has
both sets and ended up building from the D+E plans. I have links to
both plans suppliers in the links section. I would like to find a
set of dimensioned plans for the 1st model Gatling if anyone has a
source, still not heard anything from ord publishing. A guy near me
is building from the RG_G plans, progress so far is very nice , I
will ask this weekend if I can post a few pics of his progress.
RichardT

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth A. Emmert"
anyone
reading
tooled

| 86|83|2004-12-01 15:32:58|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Gun on Television...2nd try|
Hi Joe,
I will make sure not to miss it, I'll get the kid to program the vcr
when she gets home from school. When I was a kid we used to stop at
one of those road side "zoo's" you see on vacation and they had a
beautiful colt on a cone mount that had been outdoors for years.
Kids hanging off it and bubble gum shoved in every opening and green
with corosion. Went back a few years ago, nothing but a gutted
building now. Richard T

| 87|87|2004-12-07 18:33:07|generalgorloff2|Broadwell feed full size|
Hello
I am looking for drawings for a Broadwell feed system. I am
presently making patterns and pouring castings for the full scale
Colt gun,but have nothing for drawings of the early long casing gun
1866 type.Gorlov, British, Ect.
Thanks Dave
| 88|88|2004-12-10 14:59:43|Richard Thompson|Atf declares mini gun a machine gun!?!|
I guess somehow this one had escaped me as I just assumed the mini
gun had always been classified a machine gun, apperantly not though.

In the Jan issue of small arms review , industry news the topic is
miniguns and gatlings. Article states that on Aug 18 2004 that atf
ruling 2004-5 was signed which now classifys the minigun as a
machine gun. I guess anybody owning one not registered pre 86 is now
a criminal since no amnesty registration is offered, at 36k a pop I
doubt there are many.

Gatling info" Atf and its predecessor agency,the irs, have
historically held that the original, crank operated Gatling guns and
replicas therof, are not automatic firearms or machine guns. "
Revision of rul. 55-528, 1955-2cb 482.

"Atf determined after examination determined that the minigun is not
a Gatling Gun. It was not produced under the 1862-1893 patents of
the original Gatling gun. While use of the basic design concept of
the Gatling gun, the mini gun does not incorporate any of Gatlings
original components and its feed mechanism is entirely different."

I understand tshe reasoning for classifying the minigun as a
machinegun, it motor driven and delivers more than one shot per push
of the button, but where or why does the feed device play into this
ruling other than setting a new precedent? Now that atf has the
ability to write gun laws and enact them with no regard for rights
or hard earned freedom I am sure we will see alot more restrictions
in the next few years.

The part of this ruling that really chaps me is the feed mechanism
playing a roll in the decision to classify the mini as a machinegun.
Now that Atf has established high capacity feed devices as one of
the features that can make a gun a machinegun does this mean if I
slap a beta-cmag in my ar its a machine gun? By comparison the ar
patents I have,never make mention of a 100 rd drum. I have never
seen Bill Ruger hawkin' 50 rd mags for the 10/22 and they sure are
not mentioned in any of the 6 patents on the 10/22. The ruling now
stands on the mini specifacly pointing out the feed device as one of
the contribuing factors making this a machine gun, BAD BAD BAD. One
over zealous state prosecuter could have field day.

I dont want to spilt hairs but every legal decision/battle is simply
a group(court) decision on the exact interpretaion of the words
passed into law. The groups interpritation/decission is usualy
guided by the political/media atmosphere of the day so the way the
rulling on the mini was written will only come to harm hicap feed
devices.

Wont be long till a saw249 ammo box and a shrike beltfed ar upper
are machine guns, the 249 feed device is specificaly designed as
part of a machinegun platform, no sporting variant and no semi
version, so technically I would be adding machine gun parts to my Ar
by hanging this ammo box off the side. Back to that whole
interpetation thing again. Atf can drop the ax with out
congressional aproval these days and I bet we see the "no sporting
purpose" designation used more and more. I dont ride horses, fly
airplanes or sail so to me the items related to these activities
have no sporting purpose. RichardT
| 89|88|2004-12-10 17:17:36|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: Atf declares mini gun a machine gun!?!|

there are other guns that are crank fire that individuals can own!

http://www.gardnerguns.com/Products.htm

Expensive!

I too read the Sar article, though briefly, I seem to remember something about the mini gun trigger being somehow to do with it. The differance is that the trigger, thou electrical, will fire multi shots at one pull. Think the gatt with an electric motor changes its definition,
| 91|91|2004-12-15 03:22:26|Scott A. Stephens|Re: [GatlingGun] This canÂ’t be a real hunting video|
All the women I knew would either shoot back or grab the paint
ball gun and beat me to death if I tried something like that.

At 12:51 PM 12/14/2004, you wrote:

| 92|92|2004-12-17 02:29:48|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: [GatlingGun] This canâ€™t be a real hunting video|

WAAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!

The Omega Man

In a message dated 12/14/2004 8:27:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, sstephenssprint020@... writes:

| 93|93|2004-12-19 15:25:05|Richard Thompson|need a good source for barrel stock|
Hi all,
does anyone have a good source for barrel liners and barrel stock?
In paticular I need .36 cal barrel stock for black powder use. Need
aprox 36 feet in 3 foot increments. CVA has an entire black powder
rifle for $50 so I know cheap stock exist. I also am in need of
aprox 10 of the 22"-26" 22cal barrel liners like brownells has for
sale. I wrote the manufacturer, redman, just have not gotten a
response yet. I bought a bunch from gun parts a few years ago for
around $10 each, called for a stock check and was told to send my
request in writing so still waiting on that one. Anyone with a good
source or a bunch of old stock lying around let me know. Thanks
Richard T
| 94|93|2004-12-19 17:01:45|mspires1138@aol.com|Re: need a good source for barrel stock|

Wuuuuweee! You are really into that big time for 38-feet of .36 cal barrel liner and stock @ 3-feet increments? Best to contact all the metal stock supply company's in you local. That is the best I can say in the matter. I would hate to see what the fright charges would be on that.

The Omega Man
| 95|93|2004-12-22 15:52:37|Richard Thompson|Re: need a good source for barrel stock|
A friend and I have started building,well collecting materials, for
a couple of aprox 1/2 scale 6 barrel Gatlings. First patent,
planning 36 cal so I can use the same buckshot my blackpowder
revolver uses.I just need to find rifled barrel stock in 36 cal for
this project. To many projects to mention for the 22cal liners, two
shot out crackshots at arms length, but mainly need a good source
for completing a Gatling from plans I hope santa is delivering.
RichardT

| 97|97|2004-12-23 15:49:41|Richard Thompson|need barrel stock|
From: david bell <generalgorloff2@... Date: Thu Dec 23, 2004 12:53 am
Subject: Re: [GatlingGun] Re: need a good source for barrel stock

ADVERTISEMENT

Hello Richard
A few years ago The Gun Parts Corp. had some barrels
that would be ideal for your project. They were .357 bore, 1 turn in
16", 6 groove, 5/8" O.D., 17 3/4" long. The bore would normaly
be a bit small for a .36 but since you plan on using round ball, it
shouldnt hurt. You may want to look at using cast conical bullets
for a .38 special instead of round balls. The stock number was
584090. Keep me posted on your project.

Good Luck

Dave Bell

Richard Thompson wrote:

A friend and I have started building,well collecting materials, for
a couple of aprox 1/2 scale 6 barrel Gatlings. First patent,
planning 36 cal so I can use the same buckshot my blackpowder
revolver uses.I just need to find rifled barrel stock in 36 cal for
this project. To many projects to mention for the 22cal liners, two
shot out crackshots at arms length, but mainly need a good source
for completing a Gatling from plans I hope santa is delivering.
RichardT

| 98|98|2004-12-23 22:43:30|Derek Flint|Re: Digest Number 25|
You may want to try emailing SARCO and GUNPARTS and see if they have any used .22 barrel specials. Every so often they sell used and new(but out of spec) barrels. Last time I was able to buy 2 sets of 5@ for $30.   All had to be lathed down anywany, and my .22 gatling prints only need a 12" section .5 OD so with most barrels around 20"+ All have a a good shootable portion desipite where lugs were etc.... A few new, most used and pitted on the outside only. I stil think that was easier than boring out steel shaft and using a .22 liner with epoxy.

It cant hurt to call them. They are on the WWW too so you could email them and ask.

GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com wrote:

| 99|98|2004-12-26 17:59:00|Richard Thompson|Re: Digest Number 25|
Thanks, I found gunparts site and ordered half a dozen new 22 cal
24" barrels at aprox $15 each. Also bought some 9" liners for $1.80
each. Thanks for the link.Richard
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Derek Flint
and new(but out of spec) barrels. Last time I was able to buy 2
sets of 5@ for $30. All had to be lathed down anywany, and my .22
gatling prints only need a 12" section .5 OD so with most barrels
around 20"+ All have a a good shootable portion desipite where lugs
were etc.... A few new, most used and pitted on the outside only.
I stil think that was easier than boring out steel shaft and using
a .22 liner with epoxy.
email them and ask.
_____________________________________________________________________
___
_____________________________________________________________________
___
for
for
two
metal
matter.
_____________________________________________________________________
___
_____________________________________________________________________
___
-----
-----
to do nothing." Edmund Burke

| 100|100|2004-12-26 18:03:35|Richard Thompson|Plans from D+E|
Santa brought the 3 disk set of gatling plans from D+E. I have spent
about 5 hours carefully looking them over and must say they are top
notch. Has anyone taken the time to write gcodes for any of the main
parts ? I think I will start with the cams and body. Does anyone
have a cut list of raw material for these plans? Kind of suprised a
cut list wasnt in the package, do the plans from RG-G include a list
of raw materials? Thanks RichardT
| 101|50|2004-12-28 00:00:04|generalgorloff2|Re: modern ammo build?|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "oldjarheadfart"
only
Contact me offsite, I may be able to point you in the
right direction.
Dave
| 102|83|2004-12-29 14:02:40|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Gun on Television...2nd try|
Hi Joe
I wasnt able to see the show, local cable is pretty poor in my area.
I imagine it was quite a rush to see something you built on national
tv.Did the presentation come across well? Hate I missed it. Richard

| 103|103|2004-12-30 14:17:24|Richard Thompson|need part number for worm gear|
I am looking over the plans from D+E to round up all the small
parts. The part number listed in the plans for the worm gear set is
not a good Boston Gear number. Maybe its a part number from a
reseller not sure. Does anyone know the Boston Gear part numbers for
the worm and gear needed. Thanks Richard
| 104|103|2004-12-31 14:16:32|Richard Thompson|Re: need part number for worm gear|
Figured it out, the part numbers listed are for Browning worm and
gear, not boston gear as stated. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
for

| 105|50|2004-12-31 14:19:48|Richard Thompson|Re: modern ammo build?|
I also would like to find plans for a full size Gatling. I was
thinking 7.62x39 since all that 8mm popping up at shows is 50+ years
old, although I did see some nice 8mm at $40 a crate recently.So far
only one misfire.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "generalgorloff2"

| 106|84|2005-01-01 07:56:56|hadman50|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth A. Emmert" else
I bought the RG prints, and I can say that they are goor enough for a
good machinist to make the guns they show. No, not a short term
project, can be done in a month or so, maybe a bit longer. However,
as a school trained gunsmith, I could make a functional .22 Gatling
Gun from these plans, and sell it for better thatn $5K with a tripod
instead of the carriage. I am scaling these concepts up for a 9mm or
.38 special 6 barrel gun.
| 107|84|2005-01-01 16:27:21|Richard Thompson|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
Hi Ken,
I have looked over both the RG_G plans and the ones from D+E,both
listed in the links section, and I decided to order the plans from
D+E on cd. A fellow down the road has made good progress on a gun
from RG_G plans. Here is a link to a fellow who has built both
http://www.daledetrich.com/gatling.htm . The plans from D+E are
very well layed out with a 3d view of each part.The deluxe version
includes prints for the gun, wheeled carraige and tripod. My
decision was based mainly on the superior bolt/lockwork design of
the D+E plans and also talking with Dale who has built both guns.

I did most of the machine work on the main body yesterday and am
going to machine the cams this morning. Compared to some of the
small IC engines I have been building the Gatlings a cake walk. I am
redrawing as a 6 barreled gun mainly to cut down on the total part
count. As far as equipment goes you will need a mill with an
indexing head and a lathe. CNC capability will shave many hours off
the build especially with all these repetitive parts. I have written
most of the gcode to turn the bolts/locks on my cnc lathe and
finished up the codes for the mill to turn out the front and rear
cams. With either set of plans you will need to be proficient at
cutting thread on the lathe, both internal and external. As far as
special tooling the only thing I see in the D+E plans is the need to
build a small shank tslot cutter for the groove that retains the
firing pins in the rear plate, I just ground the shank smaller on a
cheap import cutter. Have not gotten to the intregal extractor on
the bolts yet. If you need the set of Gatling plans in the file
section and cant download them here you can look in the links
section and you will find the url of the site they came from, or
contact me off the board and I will forward them to you.

A six barrel gun in 38 spl is my end goal also, I originaly had
planned to use the 22 plans as a base line and work up from there
but would much rather buy plans and casting set if someone else has
already gone thru the motions. RichardT

| 108|84|2005-01-02 17:12:37|Kenneth A. Emmert|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
Thanks Richard & hadman50 for the information!

Purchase of D&E plans is the better choice for me. Both of you seem to be
interested in making 6 barrel versions in 38 caliber. I would go after ATF
approval before construction. They are capable of making life rather
confining without approval of plans.
A 6 barrel version in 22 cal would be a nice improvement. For no other
reason than weight reduction in Gatling gun. I agree a tripod is more
desirable carriage would have a longer construction period than gun. Then a
trailer would be needed to move it.
I will need to work on my thread cutting skills not an area I have had much
need for. Both mill and lathe have DRO systems. I am in process of
completing a CNC milling machine built on RF45 column mill/drill I hope to
finish project by April.

Ken
Kenneth A. Emmert
SMW Precision
| 109|84|2005-01-02 19:06:16|Richard Thompson|Re: Gatling gun plan set|
Glad to here, You will not be disapointed with the D+E plans.I was
impressed enough to shelve most other projects in the shop. I found
a piece of 2" brass pipe to be ideal for the main body.

The mill will take less time to convert to cnc than you would spend
hand machining the parts for the gun and once you get comfortable
with cad/cam software it will be a breeze.
Check out the 7x24 minilathe group if you get a chance.I really like
the www.deskcnc.com driver and software.
Consider a cnc rotary table or indexing head as it will help
greatly.
I believe the Gatling in 38spl has been done by Furr Arms and or
Tippman in the past 20 yrs or so. Just a perfect size gun to display
in the living room and ammo is very cheap. Might be a market in the
cowboy action hobby for a good affordable ($5k or less)shooter.

Richard
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth A. Emmert"
after ATF
rather
other
more
gun. Then a
had much
of
hope to

| 110|110|2005-01-04 13:56:00|Richard Thompson|barrel stock from numrich arms|
931210

Above is the part number for 22lr barrels from numrich gun parts
corp http://www.e-gunparts.com/ , 23 1/2" long, $12.50 each in qty 6
or more. Got a batch in yesterday, very nice. They also have liners,
26 inch for $20 or 9" for $1.80 each. Richard
| 111|110|2005-01-04 21:26:42|mfrbush|Re: barrel stock from numrich arms|
Richard, Do you have a part number for the 22LR barrel liners from
Numrich. I located the barrel blanks but I didn't find the liners.
Thanks Fred B.

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
liners,

| 112|110|2005-01-05 14:51:55|Richard Thompson|Re: barrel stock from numrich arms|
here is the part number for the short ones, aprox 9.25" long for
$1.80

PRODUCT NUMBER/ (SEE QUANTITY QUANTITY UNIT
DESCRIPTION BELOW) ORDERED SHIPPED PRICE STATUS

527760 1 20 20 1.80 WILL SHIP
22 CAL PISTOL BBL LINER

Merchandise Net: 36.00

Tax Amt: 0.00
Shipping Amt: 5.95

Total Amt: 41.95

| 113|113|2005-01-09 15:34:39|Richard Thompson|Progress on the D+E gatling|
Uploaded a few pics of my progress on the 22lr Gatling I have
started from the D+E plans. pretty straight forward so far. Hope to
be done with the jig to silver solder the frame rails to the front
rail sometime this afternoon. After working from these plans for a
few weeks I feel pretty confident they would be a good place to
start for building the gun in different scales. I am machining most
of the parts on cnc machinery so I am having to go thru the motions
of redrawing all the parts in my cad software. Pretty easy from this
point to scale things up. Of course considerations will have to be
made for helical gears and fastners etc, but the basics are easily
scalable.

On another subject, sure would be nice if someone already setup for
casting bronze would crank out some reciever and top cover castings
for the D+E plans...hint hint..general. The reciever casting would
eliminate the need to solder then machine the drive shaft tube and
the top cover could save lots of time and wasted material. Does
anyone know the finish dimensions for the barrels in the RG_G plans,
just curious for comparison sake. RichardT
| 114|113|2005-01-09 17:06:46|Joe|D&E Receiver castings|
Hi Richard,
It happens that I'm already thinking of doing castings for the D&E
main casing, hopper body and front bbl plate. I did a model of the
casing with all the bosses attached and could whip up a pattern and
core print for this pretty quickly.

I was looking to do a complete set of castings for the handwheels,
mounting yoke and everything. I will start with the main casing and
work from there. I'm extremely busy with the Gardner at the moment
and getting ready for the SHOT show, so unless I pay my
patternmaker, this will have to wait until Februrary. I may just do
that to keep things moving along.

If I email you my Solidworks receiver would you be willing to give
it a thorough review and make corrections? I built it quickly and
ended up jumping into the Gardner, so I don't know if I finished it
completely.

Let me know. How many of you guys would be willing to buy these
things? I would not be doing them for the RG&G guns immediately.

Joe
| 115|113|2005-01-09 17:20:32|Sluss1951@aol.com|Re: D&E Receiver castings|

Joe - can you post it? - as i know i would and outhers like to see it ? Thank You, Conley
| 116|113|2005-01-09 17:40:02|Richard Thompson|Re: D&E Receiver castings|
Would love to take a good look over them I am getting pretty
familiar with sworks for another project (model ic engines). Richard

| 117|117|2005-01-14 14:27:35|Richard Thompson|Anyone else building a Gatling?|
Just curious if anyone else in the group is currently building a
Gatling? Really like to talk with someone else building from the D+E
plans. Richard
| 118|117|2005-01-15 16:32:34|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Anyone else building a Gatling?|

i am thinking oftting the plans but have not had the spare cash this close to xmas
| 119|119|2005-01-16 15:21:02|Richard Thompson|new gatling link|
http://www.machineguns.co.nz/index.shtml

above is the link to a manufacturer in NZ of 22lr Gatling gun. They
are claiming a chain feed device coming soon, full size 7.62x39 gun
also. I have been pestering them about this chain feed device for
nearly a year, still have yet to see one or any info. I notice one
option for their current gun is a 200+ rd magazine. Looks like the
american 180 mag to me. Also list their broadwell drum as a 720 rd.

The site says this one is a 1/2 scale model of the british naval
version, looks kinda ill proportioned to me, does anyone have info
they could share on the 1875 brit naval gun.
| 123|123|2005-01-26 04:38:44|Richard Thompson|posted video clip in files section|| 124|123|2005-01-26 04:54:12|Scott A. Stephens|Re: posted video clip in files section|
I saw a video of the rounds hitting a tank on Discovery. But
never from this perspective. You got any more. Thanks.

At 06:37 PM 1/25/2005, you wrote:

| 125|125|2005-01-26 15:16:51|superfluities1|Getting bad link or missing file error on new video file????|
Getting bad link or missing file error on new video file????I'm
logged in .What else to try?
| 126|125|2005-01-26 16:29:37|Richard Thompson|Re: Getting bad link or missing file error on new video file????|
Its a big file, I have gotten the same message once this morning. Here is a
link to one of the sites its posted on http://www.big-boys.com/movie27.html
Lots of wierd video clips and a few good ones. At least 8 or so from
soldiers in mideast of blowing up different stuff, the guys that waste that
1/4 million dollar rocket on the the old burned up car for fun really piss
me off, neat clip but hey thats my tax dollars flyin' down range, have fun
with all that com-block crap you guys are capturing.

| 131|131|2005-01-27 15:46:28|Richard Thompson|Why 22 short for the D+E gun, any info on .42 Gatling cart?|
I am curious if anyone knows why Doug at D+E chose 22 short? I ask
in my only phone call and was told it was the closest cartridge to
scale. Exactly what cartridge did the 1874 Gatling use? I see
refrences in various places to a 42 cal cartridge with aprox 400gr
bullet over 77grs of Hazards Gatling powder #1. Early cartridges
with steel bases soldered to brass sleeves. Later cartridges are
just mentioned as drawn brass. I dont see it listed in either of my
cartridges of the world. Was the drawn case a ballon head? What were
the ballistics? Anybody have a drawing with dimensions? The 1"
cartridges are easy to find but I dont have one of the .42 cal ones
in my collection. I uploaded the only real info I have to files
section , pdf file labled Gatling info. Richardt
| 136|131|2005-01-28 00:47:31|Richard Thompson|Re: Why 22 short for the D+E gun, any info on .42 Gatling cart?|
From: david bell <generalgorloff2@... Date: Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:19 pm
Subject: Re: [GatlingGun] Why 22 short for the D+E gun, any info
on .42 Gatling cart?

ADVERTISEMENT

Hello Richard
I think you will find that the gun Doug scaled must
have been a .50-70 Govt. caliber. The cartridge was used by the
United States Military from 1866 to well after the introduction of
the .45-70 Govt. in 1873. The features of the gun look to be of the
Model 1870, which would corispond with the caliber, and the use of
the Broadwell Drum. There were 1874 guns that used both features
also, but they are a shorter case weapon with a big difference in
internals.
The .42 caliber cartridge you mention was known as
the .42 Berdan, a U.S. designed cartridge manufactured in huge
quanities by Winchester and Remington. It was a bottleneck cartridge
that used a 370 grain bullet backed by 77 grains of powder. This
cartridge was used in the american designed Berdan 1 hinge block
rifle manufactured by Colt, the Krinka ( a muzzle loader converted
to fire cartridges) and the Berdan 2 a bolt action rifle.
The cartridge was adoped by Russia in 1868 and was
known as the 10.75x58R. As the military rifle cartridge it was only
natural the Russians wanted it to be the chambering in thier 1868
Gatling guns,( also manufactured at Colts). The production of the
rifles, ammunition, and Gatlings was overseen at Colt's by Russian
Imperial Army Col. Gorloff who made improvements to the gun and it's
manufacture. He also instituted the manufacture of the Gatling in
Russia ( Known there as the Gorloff Gun) and was rewarded by the
Czar with a promotion to General.

Hope this helps.

Dave

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
my
were
ones

| 139|131|2005-01-28 06:51:17|ctwond|Re: Why 22 short for the D+E gun, any info on .42 Gatling cart?|
Richard,
I don't know why Doug chose .22 short rather than the .22lr, but he
scaled his plans from a model 1874. The 1874 was manufactured in
.45-70 and was produced by Colt for 3 years.

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
| 142|117|2005-01-28 13:36:50|David Slauterbeck|Re: Anyone else building a Gatling?|
I'm currently waiting for my plan set to come from D&E. I also have
the RG-G set of plans but after looking at Douglas' web site and
talking to him and Dale Detrich I think I'll probably build the D&E
just because it looks to be more historically accurate. I have
some .22 barrel blanks that I purchased from Gun Parts several years
ago that are 16.5" long and I'm going to try and maintain that length
for the finished barrel and scale up the rest of the gun to
fit...just would like to have the gun a little bigger than 1/3 scale.
Dale Detrich lives about 30 min. from me so I plan to stop by his
place to compare the D&E against the RG-G since he has both.
Dave

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"

| 148|148|2005-01-30 16:13:33|Richard Thompson|Posted more pics, barrels done finally|
Hi, I posted about a dozen more pics of my D+E gatling progress so
far. Finaly go all 10 barrels done. Based on the first 2 days
progress on them I figured on about 4 days, took 6 days, for
refrence the reciever casing only took one 8 hour day. I have turned
and polished a number of barrels for dif projects in the past but
never more than 1 for the same gun. Get 10 barrels side by side and
any little variation shows up X 10. All yesterday was spent
polishing with emory clothe to get the same finish on all 10 . I
believe before I did another 10 I would rig up a small 1/2" wide
belt sander to fit my lathes tool post and use the carriage feed to
evenly polish the length of each barrel. These type sanders are used
regularly in hydraulic shops to polish cylinder shafts. Local engine
machine shop uses a shop made one to polish crank journals. I will
post pics of the device in a few days as I think it would be useful
for anyone with a lathe. Kind of like a gentle tool post grinder, of
course not as accurate but great for final polishing.

As I mentioned in conversations with a few of you that are building
guns , I decided to buy only 5, 23.75 inch barrels from numrich and
chop them in half and turn my barrels. Those of you with plans in
hand will realize my barrels are to short and have to be extended
roughly 1.25 inches. Working on a limited budget I really thought
this would be the way to go. How hard can it be to machine the hex
portion then solder it in place after turning a pilot area on the
end of the barrel? Well the short of the story is it did really work
well but added at least 8 hours to the process and created 2 more
critical measuring/cutting points per barrel in addition to all the
set up and building of the 10 hex portions. Time wasted but a lesson
learned. Could have done one 2 hour long outside job and just
purchased the additional 5 barrels, what was I thinking. For those
planning the barrel liner route same goes, big waste of time, just
buy the proper barrel stock and save yourself some time.
After the 10 barrels were done I thought I had reached that wall
that usualy causes the project to be greased, boxed and put away for
a rainy day, but after placing the rotating assembly in the frame
and watching it spin, WOW what a rush, no stopping now. Just hope I
cant get the carriage going soon. Cam box today, finaly.

I know at least 2 of the members here I have talked with are
building from the RG-G plans. Sure would be nice if you would post
some pics and building notes, might really help inspire others to
get started on the project if they have an idea of what to expect.

RichardT
| 149|149|2005-01-30 16:22:03|Richard Thompson|3 nice gatling pics in this months SAR|
3 gatling pics in this months SAR, mar-05.
| 150|150|2005-01-31 02:36:12|Richard Thompson|cam box is done|
Got the front and rear cams cut today, just need to cut the slot for
bolt insertion in the rear one and install. Very straight forward
job, just as described in the builders notes. Posted pics in folder
labled Richards Gatling. Richard T
| 151|148|2005-02-02 04:31:30|bmg1919_a6|Re: Posted more pics, barrels done finally|
Richard:

It's a little late for the suggestion, but I picked up a bunch of
Marlin Micro Groove barrels from a gun show for my D&E model. I like
them because hte rifling is more or less to scale. I think I ended
up paying about $10 a barrel.

Nice progress by the way. It probably took me a month to get my
barrels turned, threaded, and get the hex cut on the end.

Was wondering if you'd like to share your set up. I used Doug
Schniders suggestion of tail stock set over, but had a lot of trouble
with deflection and chatter. Ended up taking dozens of very light
cuts, and still had some pretty bad machining marks to polish out.

Al

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
used
engine
of
work
lesson
for

| 152|148|2005-02-02 14:16:20|Richard Thompson|Re: Posted more pics, barrels done finally|
Hi Al,

The barrel turning was fairly easy but as you mentioned very time
consuming. I just chucked up the original blank,.875 dia, in my
13x40 lathe and proceeded to remove aprox .080 per pass until I got
to .5 diameter then moved the blanks over to my little 7x12 and did
the finish turning there.I did find it neccesary after cutting the
24" blanks in half to swap ends in the chuck and put the end that
was the center of the blank against the center in the tailstock.
Like most barrels the bore is centered at the muzzle and chamber but
not in the middle. My big lathe has a stop that disengages the
carriage feed at user determined points so while it was reducing the
blank diameter I was able to work on the other lathe. Because of
barrel flex and tool chatter I was limited to .005 infeed per pass,
took roughly 2 1/2 hours per barrel to turn the taper and reduce the
diameter of the ends, one for threading the other for my hex
portion. I obsesivley track my time in the shop and looking at my
notes it averages 6 hours 40 minutes per barrel, start to finish
including the hour per barrel wasted turning the hex portions
seperate and soldering them in place. My little lathe left a fairly
nice finish and a long angle lathe bastard (course file) made quick
work of cleaning up. Anyone thats going to tackle turning a large
number of barrels, or anything in the lathe, should consider buying
a lathe bastard, a mill second cut and a mill smooth file. Nicholson
brand has them thru enco etc. aprox $8 each in 12", spend the extra
buck each and buy the handles. Not much else to say other than I am
glad the barrels are done, so far they are the only part thats felt
like a chore.
I am going out to start the bolts as soon as the bus comes for the
kids. Richard T

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "bmg1919_a6" like
ended
trouble
so
but
and
to
will
useful
grinder,
building
and
in
extended
thought
hex
the
more
the
those
just
frame
hope I
post
to
expect.

| 153|153|2005-02-02 15:23:45|Richard Thompson|Milled the slot in the striker plate|
Took the time yesterday to properly( i hope) set my cam box in place
in the reciever casing and finished up the striker plate. I
mentioned in an early post that you might get away with out
hardening the t-slot cutter you have to make. This is incorrect, I
made a number of cutters and decided to leave one unhardened just to
see. On a test piece I found the heat generated by cutting the
brass tends to round off the edges of the cutter in short order so
forget i made the comment and harden the tool first. The hardened
cutter worked like a champ and cut the slot for the firing
pin/striker in no time at all. This slot, the cam box and the
interupted cut/ thin wals of the reciever casing were the three
items that initialy spooked me when I was looking the plans over
before starting. I can say that the building notes are spot on,
followed Dougs advice given there and so far everything has come out
just as expected.

The t-slot cutter is fairly easy to make, not sure why its not
detailed in the plans. I just took a piece of 1/2" w2 drill rod and
turned aprox .75"length to .375" . Then cut the end of the bar
slightly concave to ensure it doesnt rub while cutting. Then
switched to a parting tool and created the .165 diameter stem,
and .10 thick cutter. At this point I had a round rod with a nail
head like button on one end. I wouldnt touch it with a file or emory
paper at this point as you dont want to round off a shearing
surface. Removed the blank and placed it in one of the little 6
sided 5c collet blocks (used the same setup to mill my flats on the
barrels). At this point I put the collet block in my mill with the
tool blank horizontal, extended to the right side of the vise and
under the spindle with a SHARP new 1/4" end mill in place. The end
mill was zeroed on the top surface of the blank with the centerline
of the endmill one half its diameter towards me. In this setup the
back edge of the emill is on the verticle centerline of the tool
blank. This allows the endmill to be fed into the work from right to
left in a climbing cut. I have found it very important to climb mill
the cutting surfaces of tools like this as lift type cut will usualy
spoil the shearing surface. With the endmill off to the right of the
tool blank I lowered the emill -.03, locked it, then slowly fed it
over to the left aprox .3 , the bottom of the emill should be
cutting the back of a tooth and the side should be cutting the face
of another, I would pass over the cut 3 or 4 times at this setting
for the smoothest face. At this point its just a matter of turning
the collet block 5 times and cutting one tooth each pass. When done
you should have 6 nicely formed teeth, almost there. I then loosened
the collet and turned the tool blank aprox 15-20 degrees
anticlockwise, reclamped the collet, and raised the endmill to -.01
and proceded to cut the relief on the backside of each of the
teeth.Baisicly just want to remove the rounded portion on the top of
each tooth without quite touching the sqaured cutting face. This is
very necessary at this point as all the teeth will still have a fair
size rub point directly behind each shearing surface and unless
removed the tool wont cut well and will get hot and dull very fast.
I went straight for heat treating of the part at this point. Trying
to debur the part usualy leeds to spoilng a cutting surface for me.
If you cut the part with a new sharp endmill the minor little burs
left will usualy fall away during heating and quenching.

My heat treating methods are as follows,I used w-2 drill rod so
water is the quenching medium. Using the propane torch I used for
the soldering I proceeded to heat the tool at the 1/2" portion of
the shank whlie rotating with a pair of plyers until the end was red
hot in outside light then dropped it in a bucket of water, you will
know if it was hot enough as it should come out bluesh black with a
very light scale and a faint hint of rust. Only thing left is to
temper since the tool is very hard and brittle. I take a piece of
emory clothe and clean up the shank near (not at)the cuting surface
in a small spot until its silver again then heat till its a straw
yellow, almost like a yellow envelope then let the part air cool and
its ready to cut. This should yeild you a cutter of decent qaulity
in less than an hour cabable of cutting 2 or 3 striker plates with
no problem. Hope some of this helps . I will post a few pics of the
cutter bieng made in photos/richardGatling.

RichardT
| 154|154|2005-02-04 06:03:04|Richard Thompson|Got a fairly good start on the bolts|
Started the bolts yesterday. Decided to mill the lugs in place so I
have started with 5/8 drill rod. Starting with 7/16 drill rod and
Soldering the lugs in place would probably shave a bit of
time.Posted a few picks in photos section.RichardT
| 155|155|2005-02-06 16:18:07|Richard Thompson|Bolt building notes|
Hi, 5 days on the bolt project, 6 blanks with the lugs cut and 1
totally finished, 3 still as 5/8x3.4" billets. The first 2 days were
spent building a jig for my setup and coming up with the procedure
that works for me. Probably wasted more time taking notes than
anything. I believe the next set of bolts I make will be made from
7/16 drill rod and just solder the lugs in place ,the interupted cut
while forming the main body after milling the lug in place takes
aprox an hour. Not hard just time consuming. Cutting the extractor
was uneventful, made the cutter from 1/2" drill rod, works like a
champ. RichardT
| 156|155|2005-02-06 17:06:52|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Bolt building notes|

i work in a machine shop we have a cnc lathe im willing to quote small parts at good prices
| 157|157|2005-02-20 15:56:24|Richard Thompson|Progress on my D+E gatling|
Finished up the top cover this week. This is another part that would
definitly benifit from casting. Working from solid leaves alot of
material as waste on the floor. Quite a bit of time spent hand
fitting all the bolts and related moving parts but simply amazing to
watch the bolts reciprocate as they should. Still need to make
firing pin retainers,springs,and a magazine. Not sure of the total
gun weight, feels in the 10+ pound range, alot heavier than it
appears. I am about 1/2 done on a camel length version also, just
need to finish the bolts, solder together the reciever components,
and turn the barrels to catch up with the musket length gun. I will
post a few more pics in a few days. Been goofing off a little by
building a 4 gauge breech loading signal cannon. Richard Thompson
| 158|158|2005-02-20 16:24:36|Richard Thompson|Need pics of RG-G gun build, anybody??|
Hi all,

I know there are a couple of members here building from the RG-G
plans , any chance I can get one or two of you to post some pics of
the basic parts of the build. Maybe a few pics of the progress? I
emailed Paul at RG-G for a few pics but have not gotten a response
other than the offer to sell me the plans. I plan to start on one
from the rg-g plans in the near future just need to finish up the
D+E gun first, wife wants a house built somewhere in between. I am
really surprised at how hard it is to get someone to post pics of
the rg-g, is there something I should know about the build? Any
hangups, mistakes? Better design than D+E? Worse? Is the scale
close? Scale model of an actual gun or just a close replica?
Richard T
| 159|158|2005-02-20 17:51:24|Thomas Sobeck|Re: Need pics of RG-G gun build, anybody??|
Hello Richard

I have both RG+G and the D+E plans.

Basicall one is A GM and the other is a FORD.

Pauls plans give you the choice of materials to use as far as steel or brass or what ever.

He uses a lot of screws because he does not like to silver solder.

He lets you decide how a lot of operations are to be performed. He tells you how he did it and encourages any body who can do it in an easier way. His goal is to have build a working model by taking the path of least resistance. Doug as you know is very picky when it comes to detail. Doug;s plans are an exact copy scaled down.

Pauls plans are for .22 long rifle. Dougs is for .22 short.

Anybody who builds Doug's first with success will have no problems what so ever building Paul's.

Doug's gun is 3 on the tree with manual brakes and steering. Pauls is Power steering brakes and automatic transmission.

.......in my opinion.

Tom

Richard Thompson | 160|158|2005-02-20 21:48:37|Dave Dorner|Re: Need pics of RG-G gun build, anybody??|

So Doug's model would be the Ford then :)

| 161|161|2005-02-23 17:38:12|Richard Thompson|Couple of simple typo's in the plans|
Hi,

I have mostly finished the gatling as detailed in Dougs plans. I
thought I might point out a couple of typo's I found. I have
mentioned them to Doug, a couple he has corrected and a couple we
cant seem to get on the same wave length. The plans on cd's sent out
pre jan 20th are missing drawing number 2235a, just the firing pin
retainer. You can figure this one out from the bolt drawing but a
complete set of plans is always nice. The new disk also includes
drawings of some of the oscillator parts geared towards the home
machinist that doesnt have EDM capabilties.

The other issue which I am sure is bieng corrected is the threads in
the rear of the bolt. The drawing depicts a 3/8x40 tapped hole. The
mating part (firing pin retainer) is listed as 3/8x32. I believe
this is a typo since an interferance fit is not needed here.

The only other issues I have found are on drawings 2278 & 2279.
These are the gears needed to drive the rotating mass. The dash in
the part number listed on the early disk need to be moved one
decimal place to the right to arrive at the proper part number. This
wouldnt be a problem except the gears depicted in the drawings are
worm and spur. The gears needed are actually 45 degree helical
gears. The wrong depiction in combination with an invalid part
number on these two prints lead to alot of head scratching by both
me and the guys at motion, boston gear and browning. When ordering
your gearset the proper number is listed in the xeroxed parts list.
I would list the proper part number here, but that would not be fair
to Doug.

I should mention none of these are a big deal, if your already
building you have probably already figured these out and I dont
believe the printed plans have any problem. I am only posting this
here as I have tryed on a couple of occasions to point them out to
Doug with limited success. RichardT
| 162|158|2005-02-23 17:52:47|Richard Thompson|Re: Need pics of RG-G gun build, anybody??|
Thanks Tom, I am going to start collecting materials for pauls
design soon.Still need to order the plans. I am an obsessive modeler
so Dougs design fills the bill but an easier path to the same end
result(lead in the air) is always appealing. I have only talked to
one person who has built guns from both plans sets, Dale Detrich,
link in the links section. Dale seem to think that Dougs design was
easier to build and said there a number of small mistakes in the RG-
G plans, but he did not go into depth. I have seen a number of
people on GatChat (pauls posting board) mention a few mistakes in
pauls plans but no one I have ask is willing to explain. I would
assume if there is a mistake it would be corrected by now as I have
seen the rg-g plans offered for over a decade. Anyone with any
insite here please speak up. I would welcome Paul or Doug to chime
in on these issues if either/both are members here. I know i have
invited them both dont know if either have joined. Richard T

| 163|163|2005-03-03 17:18:03|Richard Thompson|D+E build progress|
I have learned quite a bit during the past few weeks of fitting all
the internal parts of the gatling.

Polish everything that slides, moves, rubs or touches anything in
the gun. Especially the bolts, cams, and strikers

When building the top cover and hinge assembly I would leave the
under side of the hinge a little thick to allow for hand fitting,
same goes for the radius on the top cover where the thimbles solder
in place and the opposite side where the top cover rest on the side
rails.

Loctite the spring retainers on the strikers after fitting and
soldering firing pins in place.

The striker springs are easily wound around a simple mandrel in the
lathe and the carriage feed used to control coil spacing. I wound
mine from .031 spring wire, 13 coils 1.88" free length. Springs seem
a little stout, just waiting on the .024 wir called out in the plans
to be delivered.

Use high strength silver solder.
A month or so back I mentioned that I used lead and silver free
plumbing type solder for the assembly of the reciever. Not a good
idea. The driveshaft (one with the crank)carries a helical drive
gear that rotates the barrel/bolt assembly. The worm (oscilator
screw) on the left side of the driveshaft runs against the left end
of the driveshaft tube, keeping the driveshaft/gear assembly from
walking out of the right side of the gun. This thrust load on the
left side of the drive shaft tube has caused it to brake free and
will have to be resoldered. In my case everything was running fine
until one of the strikers partialy unscrewed from the spring
retainer and as such the assembled bolt length was a little long. As
a result the rotating assembly bound and the solder joint failed.
Not sure if it would have failed otherwise but considering the
amount of time invested why risk it over a few bucks worth of silver
solder. Also points out that the retainer should be secured to the
striker with loctite.
| 164|164|2005-03-12 04:13:34|rita61604|Brass suppliers....|
Hello....My name is Johnny and i live in central Illinois....I'm in
the process of building a gaitlin gun from Pauls plans(RG-G) And i'm
hoping that someone on this list can help me....I do not have anywhere
local to buy brass for my gun....I was hoping that someone on list
would be kind enough to share their lists of suppliers...I contacted
Paul this morning, but he was of little help.....This whole project
has been a quest from the start when it comes to finding
material...But, I have really enjoyed working on my gun.....Any and
all help will be very much appreciated......Thank you Johnny
| 165|164|2005-03-12 04:57:33|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: Brass suppliers....|

There is a guy that advertises in Home Shop machinist that sells metals cut to lenght and very resonable.

Fred Eisner metals

imsteamer21@...
| 166|164|2005-03-12 14:33:02|Dave Dorner|Re: Brass suppliers....|

https://www.onlinemetals.com/ They seem to have good prices.

| 167|164|2005-03-12 19:10:38|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Brass suppliers....|

you mean brass for ammo? or for making the gun?
| 168|168|2005-03-12 20:33:14|Jim S.|Re: Digest Number 55|
John, you might try Milwaukee Metal Express. They have been around for
twenty years or so, and I have been dealing with them satisfactorily for
almost that long. Their web address is http://my.execpc.com/~metal/wi.html.
Their website also indicates a Chicago division, which I have not dealt
with, but which may be more cost effective for you to deal with. Good luck.

Jim Schmidt

| 169|168|2005-03-12 20:39:02|Jim S.|Re: Digest Number 55|
A correction to my recent reply re metal vendor Metal Express. The correct
Address is www.metalexpress.net . The other address points to what must be
an old legacy site that hasn't been updated in years. Sorry for the
confusion.

Jim Schmidt

| 170|170|2005-03-13 03:29:02|rita61604|Brass suppliers...Thank you!!|
Hey, thank you, fellas for all the help....you sure came thru for
me...
Johnny
| 171|164|2005-03-13 15:21:35|Richard Thompson|Re: Brass suppliers....|
I just ordered all my stock from www.metalexpress.net . Aprox 3 days
delivery time, reasonable pricing. Richard

| 172|117|2005-03-13 17:11:28|Richard Thompson|Re: Anyone else building a Gatling?|
Hi Dave, dont forget to take a camera and post a few pics.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "David Slauterbeck"
D&E
years
length
scale.

| 173|173|2005-03-14 15:18:39|Richard Thompson|screws thru cascable on Furr Gatling?|
The Furr Gatlings have been around for quite awhile now and seem to
be highly regarded. I have had more than one person mention that
they are nearly exact scale models. I have seen 2 of the Furr 1874
Gatlings and am very curious what the four screws in the rear of the
cascable are for? 2 small brass screws aprox #8 and 2 larger steel
screws aprox #12. None of the info on the 1874 guns I have seen
depicts these 4 screws. Is the reciever casing externaly threaded
for the cascable, or is this just a corner bieng cut similar to the
thunder valley guns? Also curious if anyone has a drawing, photo
etc of the proper folding front sight for the 1874 pattern gun?
Dougs plans only detail the fixed replacement sight introduced a few
years later, thought the appropriate folding sight might be nice.

RichardT
| 174|173|2005-03-16 04:12:09|David Boles|Re: screws thru cascable on Furr Gatling?|
Richard,
I hope to be in Conn. within 2 weeks to take photo's of the 1874 Colt
in the Conn.Museum.
Regards
Dave

| 180|180|2005-04-03 15:48:20|Dennis Thompson|Any progress Richard?|
It's been pretty quiet on the forum! I've got my RG-G plans and have
been reading them over to get an idea of the work involved. Denny
| 181|180|2005-04-12 13:53:50|Richard Thompson|Re: Any progress Richard?|
Hi Denny,
Just been working on all the little pieces for the camel length gun
so not much to report. I have been working on a bruce feed and going
through all the frustration involved in getting the nose heavy
cartridges to slide in the tslot properly, waste of time as of yet
but really looks neat perched atop the gun. I have made some good
progress on the 2/3 scale gun, at least alot of the small parts,
still working on patterns to cast the reciever casing and some of
the larger bronze parts. Its becoming obvious that I will have
nearly as much in a couple of sets of castings and related tooling
than the cost of a FURR Gatling, but the challenge of doing it
myself is my motivation. Keep us posted on your progress, love to
see some pics of the various components of the RG-G build. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis Thompson"

| 182|180|2005-04-14 05:20:39|Dennis Thompson|Re: Any progress Richard?|
Do you have any good contacts to do the casting? There are a number of
metalworking forums that frequently have information on casting,
including various companies to do the actual casting. Dennis
| 183|183|2005-04-16 15:37:35|ctwond|BWE Gatling Gun|
I was wondering if anyone has had one of the BWE Firearms Gatling
Guns?
Retail price for standard gun on tripod with 220 rnd. drum is $5000.
They have 10 18" barrels, overall length 27" weight 45#.
Has anyone seen or shot one of these? What quality of workmanship?
The retail price seams resonable if it is a reliable,well built piece.
http://bwefirearms.com/index.html

thanks,
CTWOND
| 184|180|2005-04-16 21:47:50|Scott A. Stephens|New Zealand Gatling gun|
I was watching the video of the gun made by
http://www.machineguns.co.nz/index.shtml My question is if you look at the
video on the left hand side of the gun is a protrusion that spins in the
opposite rotation of the turning handle. Is this like a cam follower?
| 185|180|2005-04-17 16:37:03|Dennis Thompson|Re: New Zealand Gatling gun|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
It is an oscillator cam, which can swivel the barrel back and forth as
you crank. It needs to have the rest of the mechanism, a pawl that
drops in the cam slot and an arm that connects to the fixed part of
the gun. It does appear to rotate opposite the crank direction, but
that might be an artifact of the video process?

Dennis
| 186|186|2005-04-27 16:16:39|Stan Richardson|The Second Amendment Protection Act.|
I am Writing to inform you all about; bill H. R. 1703, The Second
Amendment Protection Act.
This bill would repeal Public Law 103-159, and it would remove the
Sporting purposes requirements and parts count issues, as well as some
other violations of the Second Amendment.

Please help the word get out so that people will be able to write
their elected officials, urging them to support this bill, to protect
the Second Amendment.

A copy of this bill may be found at http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-
bin/query/z?c109:H.R.1703: .

Thanks!

Stanley Richardson
| 187|186|2005-04-28 04:51:03|Scott A. Stephens|Re: The Second Amendment Protection Act.|
Tried your link twice and it 404ed on me.

At 07:16 AM 4/27/2005, you wrote:

| 188|173|2005-05-05 13:38:09|Richard Thompson|Hi Dave|
Hi Dave,

Finally back online, how is your project going? RichardT

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, David Boles Colt
seem to
1874
of the
steel
threaded
the
photo
a few
nice.
Terms of

| 189|173|2005-05-06 20:20:57|David Boles|Re: Hi Dave|
Richard,
I am still working on it !
Just finished the cams, had to make several times.
After cutting through the blank and I was almost finished, the blank
slipped on the arbor and ruined it ! Of course I had already
discarded my original blanks made of the sintered bronze for the
aluminum bronze ! Finally solved the issue with pinning the blank to
the arbor.
Finished the cascabel plate and plug as well.
I did get to the musem in Hartford,and it was great . I took a lot of
pictures, but they eat up a LOT of memory. In total about about 8MB
Spent last weekend at Road Atlanta with the IMSA GTO Corvette. We
brought it back in one piece , so I guess we were successful !
How are your Gattling(s) coming ?
Regards
Dave

| 190|190|2005-05-08 18:06:27|Richard Thompson|posted pic of camel side rail|
Posted a pic in folder richards gatling of a camel length and musket
length side rails for comparison. I think its the last picture in the
folder so click show all. Cheers RichardT
| 191|191|2005-05-13 19:22:31|oldjarheadfart|field carraige|
Does anyone have a set of plans for building a full size field carraige
for the gatling? I'm looking for as authenic as possible. A detailed
set of photo's would also suffice.

OJF
| 192|192|2005-05-16 23:53:35|wesley5060|New member|
Hi all am new to the group,is there any one else in the group from the
uk .
wes
| 193|192|2005-05-19 15:05:32|Richard Thompson|Re: New member|
Welcome Wes glad to have you aboard, I am curious, is it possible for
you to construct one of these as a model, ie. solid barrels in your
area? Im in Florida. Richardt

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "wesley5060" the

| 194|192|2005-05-19 16:19:24|Thomas Sobeck|Re: New member|
Richard

Have you test fired your gatling gun yet ?

Richard Thompson | 195|195|2005-05-19 20:24:12|thomassobeck|Richard.....|
Have you test fired your gatling gun yet ?
| 196|192|2005-05-19 20:28:18|RTHOMPSON|Re: New member|

Not yet, I have not cut the extractor grooves quite deep enough for a cartridge to fully chamber.I am going to have to put them one by one back in the jig and cut them slightly deeper. The extractor area is so thin I am just a little nervous.  I have done everything else but solder the firing pins in place. Since its a rimfire there is no way to test for fit and function without peening the chamber mouth other than to leave the firing pins out. I have wasted alot of time the past few months trying to get feed strips to work. looks really neat on display with 20 cartridges hanging in the breeze, just cant seem to get them to drop reliably. My next plan is to just make the broadwell drum and be done with it. I am mostly done with the camel length gun, considering making it the shooter and just leaving the musket length as a non firing replica and skip recutting the extractors. Everybody that comes over loves cranking the handle and its neat watching all 10 bolts cycle and hearing the strikers drop. Alot safer to display since it cant fire. Still need to build a carriage. I have all the walnut in a stack , just need to work on all the brass fittings.

My parts for the 2/3 scale gun are coming along nicely, will post pics when I have the rotating assembly done.

RichardT

| 197|192|2005-05-19 23:19:06|wesley5060|Re: New member|
Hi richard,yes l can build a 1/3 scale here thats fires blanks,but by
our law the barrels have to be vented ,any way by the time l build it
the law will have changed yet again,seems to change every other month
here,still like it the world over now,so am just going to do my thing
and se where we are when its done ,if l have to will apply for a
section 1 ticket on it,but if worst comes to be it can have solid
barrels fitted ,so every thing works but can not fire a thing,so have
some options open to me when its done or is nearly done should l
say,am going to order a set of plans this weekend from your side of
the pond and wil keep you all posted .
regards wes

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"

| 199|199|2005-06-02 23:52:07|wesley5060|Sleep|
Hi all where is every one sleeping or building gatlings .
wes
| 200|200|2005-06-03 07:40:09|sarmourer|gatling traverse cam|
Hi guys,

I have been a member for a while. I am not building, but helping to
build a RG model.

I have posted some photos of Gat 1865 from a Military Modeler
magazine, it shows the traverse cam. The video mentioned earlier does
not show the gun locked and traversing. The cam is designed to
traverse across a line of advancing troops for maximum effect.

All the best, agreat site,
sarmourer
Australia
| 201|199|2005-06-03 16:37:19|Richard Thompson|Re: Sleep|
Hey wes, actually I am building gatlings in my sleep, or at least in
my dreams, LOL. I know there are at least a dozen of us here activly
building but for some reason quite a few are shy about showing there
progress. Just waiting till they finish if I had to guess.

Looks like I will be sidetracked building a house and shop over the
next year, property values here on the gulf coast have gone up 10 fold
so its time for my cheap butt to move inland. Gettin" a new house and
a 3k sqaure foot shop with central heat/ac in trade for our 40 year
old house is a big motivator. Gonna have to dig an acre or so pond
right off the bat as I will probably shrivel up and die without a
swimmin' hole out the back door, gotta have somewhere to run the
hovercraft. The downside of the move is all my machine tools will be
in limbo for a few months as I move so no progress on Gats. On the
++PLUS++ side the farm I am moving to is aprox 640 acres with a 1200
yard shooting range were current owner shoots his cannon so I doubt
anyone will b**ch about the 22 gat. Get enough folks interested next
year maybe we can get together and shoot gatlings and cannons, at
least 1/2 doz big cannon owners here in my area. RichardT

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "wesley5060"
| 202|202|2005-06-03 23:19:48|superfluities1|sleep&building|
I'm not building one yet,just listening and learning!Were to start???
| 203|199|2005-06-04 01:21:14|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Sleep|

id like to mention again that i have access to a cnc lathe and am happy to quote parts firing pins ect
| 204|204|2005-06-26 19:17:44|Morgan Spires|Fwd: Your Own Mock-Up NUKE!|
Attachments :

Note: forwarded message attached.

Yahoo! Sports
Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football
| 205|205|2005-06-28 17:12:41|The Omega Man|Miniguns?|
Thought I might pass this info along to you guys here:

But it is cheaper then what I have seen else where which there are
not many. And Mr.40mm; http://www.mr40mm.com/page7.html
has a live receiver and some barrel parts but you must be a Class 2
or Class 3 with LE Letterhead. Other then that, a minigun runs abot
120K if you can find one. Now if you want just a repo model then
check this guy out; http://www.montysminiguns.com/ and if you are
real cheap try here; http://www.backyardartillery.com/machinegun/ I
laugh my ass off on this one!

The Omega Man

--- In gunkitbuilders@yahoogroups.com, Bryce Kelam
| 206|205|2005-07-20 14:25:31|Richard Thompson|Re: Miniguns?|
MR 40MM has been offering that reciver casting for a while, seems a
few folks built hand crank versions causing atf to pass down a new
rulling a few months back that the mini reciver is a machine gun
motorized or not. I had always assumed it was class 3 anyway but
apparently the lack of a motor made it title 1 before this ruling. I
was in elyria a few year back and got a look at his m79 receiver
castings, nice stuff.

I really like the gatling cap gun at the rubberband link you
posted , cant wait for it to come back in stock so I can piss off my
dogs.

On a side note I did buy a new 30mm vulcan barrel a few weeks back
for an upcomming cannon project. This thing is huge at 7 feet long,
love to see a cluster of them spin.Found a guy that had worked on
the ammo loading machine for the gun, crams something like 4k rounds
of ammo in the planes mag in about 6 minutes, had a number of
barrels leaning up in the corner of his shop, new with a 6" long
chop saw cut in the chamber. We shot his cannon in the back yard,
kinda wierd muzzle loading a thin barreled cannon with smokless
powder, much louder than the 3" bore cannon my buddy shoots. Kinda
neat to see a hole in the back of an 18" oaktree then walk back a
few hundred yards and see all the brush and trees the bullet went
thru sideways.
RTHOMPSON
www.thompsonmachine.net

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "The Omega Man"
| 207|205|2005-07-20 20:36:34|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Miniguns?|
How much powder did you pack it with and how big was your bullet????
At 05:24 AM 7/20/2005, you wrote:

| 208|205|2005-07-21 13:49:17|Richard Thompson|Re: Miniguns?|
I am not sure, as far as weight, how much powder is was, volume was
aprox that of a small juice can, looked like aprox 3 times what I
pour in a 50 bmg, maybe 2000grn load. I do know it was surplus 8700
powder from OLIN/Winchester/Primex. The bullet was steel, roughly 3
inches long and had to be pounded in the barrel the first few inches
with lube (engraving the driving band) then could be slid about a
foot then wait on the pressure to drop and push another foot or so.
I am going to counterbore my muzzle to make loading a little
easier. here is a link to a guy that sells barrels and projectiles,
he brings alot of this stuff to knob creek also
http://www.bigskysurplus.com/30mm.htm
RThompson
www.thompsonmachine.net

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
a
ruling. I
my
long,
rounds
are
Class 2
abot
then
are
http://www.backyardartillery.com/machinegun/ I
http://cranetechnologiesinc.com/Miniguns.htm

| 209|205|2005-07-21 19:21:48|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Miniguns?|
What did you do to seal up the breach end????

At 04:48 AM 7/21/2005, you wrote:

| 210|205|2005-07-22 15:33:29|Richard Thompson|Re: Miniguns?30mm cannon|
I have not done anything with mine yet. The guy I got it from had
Welded a large sleeve and plug over and into the back end of the
barrel. I am not sure what route I am going to take on the breech
end of this one.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
8700
3
inches
so.
projectiles,
your
seems
a new
gun
but
receiver
off
back
worked on
long
yard,
smokless
Kinda
back a
went
there
runs
you

| 211|211|2005-08-10 13:56:43|Richard Thompson|american 180 magazine|
Hi All,

My camel length gatling is coming along nicely, I have stretched the
design slightly to accept 22lr and have machined the proper cam box.
As I mentioned a while back I believe the Gatling from NZ uses
american 180 mags. Called E&L manufacturing (current Amer180
supplier) and talked with Val Cooper at great length. He is supplying
the 275 rd drum for the NZ Gatling and they are putting them in the
sheet metal shell, $125 for the 275rd, also has a 180 rd for $75. I
ordered a couple in hopes they can be easily adapted, if not I have a
AM-180 so no big loss. I will post some pics of the 165 rd drum I have
now, might spur a better Idea. Richard
| 212|211|2005-08-10 14:51:00|Thomas Sobeck|Re: american 180 magazine|
Richard

have you test fired Doug's design yet ?

Richard Thompson | 213|211|2005-08-12 14:21:12|Richard Thompson|Re: american 180 magazine|
Hi Thomas,I have not discharged a round of live ammo thru the gun. I
have cycled a couple of hundred rounds thru the gun and every thing
works exactly as expected, feeds and extracts wonderfully. I have
strikers in the gun but have never soldered the firing pins in
place.As its a rimfire I did not want to peen the mouths of the
chambers while test fitting. Since the the gun I have completed sits
in my living room on display and gets fiddled with at least once a
day, I have decided not to install the firing pins, I have 2 kids
and a number of their friends over so for saftey sake I am not going
to make it a shooter. I have noticed even the most safety minded of
my gun friends seem to walk up to the gun and spin the crank without
ever making sure the gun is clear. Kind of a let down doing all this
work and not actualy shooting it but it looks so wonderful on
display in my house and safety is most important. That is where the
second gatling comes in, decided to stretch it slightly for 22lr and
build it in camel length. Since scale is not an issue on the shooter
I thought I might as well fit the 275rd mag from E+L. Hopefully some
nice reciever castings will be avail soon, contacted batf, as long
as casting is unmachined , as cast, it would be considered a non
firearm, and as such unregulated.HINT HINT. Richard

| 214|214|2005-08-19 13:53:42|Richard Thompson|275 rd magazine|
Hi All,
Decided to post the 275 rd magazine pictures on the american 180
webring here at yahoo, this is the link if interested.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/American180

What started as a simple exercise to fit a american 180 drum to my
Gatling project has turned into a full blown build from scratch of an
american 180 semi auto 22 rifle. I have posted aprox 3 dozen pics of
all the parts of a semi 180 completly disassembled and a few pics of
my progress to date. More complicated machine work but simpler overall
design so the build is going alot faster than the gatling. RichardT
| 222|222|2005-09-04 14:51:44|Richard Thompson|New pics in the Photos section|
Hi All, I posted some wonderful pics of an original Gatling on display
at the Colt Museum. Dave took these pics earlier this year, just took
me a few month to get around to posting them. Thanks goes to Dave for
sharing these wonderfully detailed pics. RichardT
| 223|222|2005-09-04 19:43:26|david bell|Re: New pics in the Photos section|
Thanks Dave, Thanks Richard

                                  Many great photos. I am going to save them. Job well done.

                                                                                                      Best

                                                                                                         Dave Bell

Richard Thompson | 227|227|2005-10-11 03:11:34|jtgatling|Hi everyone.|
Hello,

Just found this group and it's right up my alley. I'm a ME and have
been designing my own Gatling. I have plan sets from the two guys in
the US and I am using them as a guide. But, being an engineer I have
to make changes (and improvments!). This looks like a good forum to
share and bounce ideas. Looking forward to chatting with all of you.

Jeff
| 228|227|2005-10-18 02:32:37|Richard Thompson|Re: Hi everyone.|
welcome, things have been a little slow with so many irons in the
fire, good to have another person on board. I have some cad drawings
to share over the next few weeks.

| 229|229|2005-10-29 21:04:04|raymo123456|files|
Hello, I just joined and am excited to finally find some info. I
purchased D&E plans about five years ago. I got a good start then
stopped. There was no good info on the net back then. Any way I cannot
download the Gatling Prints (gif.) I downloaded the free tiff viewer
but still get a red X. The other plans will download. This site got me
started again. Thanks, Ray M.
| 230|230|2005-11-14 23:44:37|Earl Flanigan|Hello!|
Obviously am new to the group. Was surfing around trying to find some
READable blueprints after getting some indecipherable photocopies from
an Ebay auction (ya gets what ya pays for), and stumbled in here.

Am cautiously planning on building a Mod 1900 in 7.62x54 or x39 (cheap
ammo dontcha know). Am familiar with foundry and machine work, and of
course a graduate of WECSOG.

If anyone knows or has a set of prints for a full sized Gat, let me
know - am itching for something to do this winter.

Thanks!
| 231|230|2005-11-19 18:05:51|Richard Thompson|Re: Hello!|
Welcome, there is a link here to a guys set of plans that are free,
although Ive not checked it in a while, They are also posted here in
the files section in Tiff format, I can convert to gif or jpg if
that would help. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Earl Flanigan"
from
(cheap
of
me

| 232|230|2005-11-19 23:28:08|Thomas Sobeck|Re: Hello!|
Cant find the link.....?

Where is it.......?

Richard Thompson | 233|233|2005-11-20 04:26:55|raymo123456|Gatling prints|
Hello, I joined your group a few weeks ago and still get a red x
in the corner of the screen on the Gatling Prints 1-8.{gif} The other
plans I tried downloaded fine. I am in the process of building from
about 5 year old plans from D&E. Thanks again, Ray M.
| 234|234|2005-11-20 04:52:52|Earl Flanigan|Re: Digest Number 93|
Thanks for the offer Richard. Already have that
particular set in PDF - everythings readable except
the bolt dimensions/angles. Am backburering(is that a
word?) this project for awhile since some cheap
MG42/M53 kits came in. Will keep in touch and thanks
again!

__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
| 235|234|2005-11-22 17:57:22|Richard Thompson|Re: Digest Number 93|
Make sure if you get one of the 42/53 sets to check out interord as
far as i know they are the only ones with all the rec scrap included.
On the prints there are at least 2 members here that have built from
those prints and there are a couple of problems but they are
workable.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Earl Flanigan
| 236|233|2005-11-22 18:02:28|Richard Thompson|Re: Gatling prints|
The prints will appear to be gif files but they are actually TIFF
format as used by us patent office etc. If you are getting the red x
you need to download a tiff viewer as its not included in most photo
viewers. search google for alternatiff and download ther free tiff
viewer plugin, i believe its reliable as its the viewer reccomended by
us patent office.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "raymo123456" other

| 237|237|2005-11-23 02:39:50|Earl Flanigan|Re: Digest Number 95|
Where were you last week?! is no longer making 80% receiver rears. locate some receiver chunks. Then, I could always
bend/hammer/cuss/stamp my own ---nahhh!

Already poured a frame using a Gingery-style foundry
setup on steroids (a 20gal grease drum), and have
acquired about 300lbs of untarnished yellow brass for
free. Now just have to start whittling the other mold
forms. Have the barrels ordered (anyone need 10 Nagant
receivers?) for a paltry $80 - just gotta sleeve the
tapered end for a realistic look. I suspect a few of
the business-end components will need to be steel
since the 7.62x54 makes just a bit more pressure than
old fashioned BP ammo. Shouldn't be too hard to
electroplate these so it looks original.

Cheers!

__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
| 238|238|2005-12-04 17:07:49|Richard Thompson|am 180 cad drawings|
Earlier this year I made some decent cad drawings of an american
180 , 180 rd capacity 22 rifle built by feather industires in the
late 80's. The rights to the design as I understand it are the sole
property of Mr Val Cooper of E&L manufacturing, although all patents
appear to have lapsed. I had no plans of sharing these drawings and
only created them to duplicate the design in pistol form for myself,
no commercial intent whatsoever. About 2 months ago a computer thats
online 24-7 was breached and thousands of drawings I have made and
accumulated over the years were mirrored and the 180 drawings have
starting poping up on a couple of gun related sites. I have made the
decision that if these drawings are bieng shared without my consent
that they should at least exist containing the proper copyright
information as well as the standard NFA and BATFE warnings. Please
view these drawings as information only and understand that all
though I do not know Mr Cooper of E&L Manufacturing in any other form
than a few phone conversation, I respect the fact that this design is
his property and dimensions have been deleted. Please enjoy these
drawings as they show a neat perspective on how all the parts of a
wonderful design interelate in a way photos can never reflect. They
should give a good perspective of the Cassul design to accompany the
variuos patents filed starting in the late 60's. All the related
patents, cad drawing and a detailed photo of each part of my feather
180 disassembled can be found at the yahoo 180 group here. I hope to
find other variants and document with drawings and detailed photos as
I run across them, hope to find someone with an original Cassul I can
look over at some point soon.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/American180/

Happy holidays, Richard
| 239|239|2005-12-09 05:00:22|andynm45|45-70 Gatling gun Prints|
Hello, I'm new to this group and I'm hoping some of you can help. I'm
looking for prints for a full size Gatling Gun chambered in 45-70. I
don't know much about them so I don't know which model is best or even
if one is better then another. I work with CAD and would like to draw
them up in 3D. Thanks for your time.

Andy
| 240|240|2005-12-12 14:07:00|Richard Thompson|RG-G gatling plans|
Been a year since I asked santa for the D+E gatling plans, very happy,
three gatlings from those wonderful plans, figured with the holidays
here again it might be time to start another gatling , this time from
the RG-G plans, santa wife is on alert so should have the new plans in
a few weeks. Anybody with an RG-G underway? Love to know if there is
any thing oddball I should start rounding up for the build? richard
| 241|240|2005-12-13 04:08:05|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: RG-G gatling plans|

Few oddball things. Lots of guy who built them that I talked to criticize lots of things about them. Like needing to make a jig for the bolts. There is no explanation on how to make some items. Carriage does not look correct.

    Hard item to get is the yoke. I think 5 inch brass tube half inch thick.

    FAH
| 242|240|2005-12-13 13:38:58|Thomas Sobeck|Re: RG-G gatling plans|
I jig for the bolts....?????

All I used was a 5C collet.

fah2ue@... wrote:

| 243|240|2005-12-13 17:31:19|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: RG-G gatling plans|

Never got that far, so I dont personally know. Something about spinning them off center. Will pull my plans to see if i can jog my memory.
| 244|240|2005-12-14 14:02:42|Richard Thompson|Re: RG-G gatling plans|
Should get to see first hand in a few weeks, I used the 5c collet and
collet block on my D+E bolts and machined the lug in place. Been about
a year since I have seen the RG+G localy , unsure if that guy ever
finished it up. Cant wait to campare the two designs, a simple shooter
will be nice. Anybody on the group finish an RG&G yet?

| 245|245|2005-12-15 18:00:11|Richard Thompson|anybody making progress|
Hi all been a year since my first post,2 gatlings down and counting
anyone else making progress on a Gatling build? Dave I havent heard
from you in a while, everything moving along?

I am still surprised no one with an RG-G build has chimed in, I bet
I have spoken regularly with a dozen guys building from the D+E
plans and at least 4 guys building big from scratch but no RG_G
input, odd.

Other than magazines I have finished both my gatlings from the D+E
plans and am starting the RG_G after santa arrives. I have streched
one of the D+E for 22lr, and shortened the front end to camel length
and it seems to feed and function nicely although I have not yet
installed firing pins in either for live fire testing. At some point
I am going to have to get busy and build a carriage of som sort to
test fire, current lazy thinking is maybe a conical deck mount, just
got to get a little motivation to finish cupola to start casting
yoke and mount.
On a side note I did some nice cad drawings in june for a 12ga 6bbl
gatling with thoughts of building one to shoot slugs, thought those
huge charges of blackpowder and resulting smoke would be cool, I
have not submitted the drawings to atf tech but in a phone
conversation I was told just like the street sweeper and USAS12 , it
would have no sporting purpose and would be considered a destructive
device. FROWN , I did find a patent filed by disney for a gatling
gun for firing big pyrotechnic shells and was told in the same
conversation as long as the bore is smooth and will not chamber a
40mm round that it would be possible to build one for the 37mm
flares as a non gun, but was cautioned that the materials needed to
be suitable for flares, not solid anti personel rounds, as I
understand he was recomending the thing not be made of steel, of
course any answers you get via phone are very crytic anyway. i am
working with another fellow who is scaling up my drawings for the
project in one of those solid modeling programs , hope to start a 3
bbl 37mm flare gun from delrin and alum soon, just need more hours
in the day. happy holidays Richard
| 246|245|2005-12-16 05:30:00|denphillips2|Re: anybody making progress|
Glad to see someone has some spare time.
I am new to the forum. Just found it tonight from a link from Gat-
Chat.
Haven't looked back through the mesages yet.
I have a set of D&E plans coming to give to my Grandpa for Xmas.

How is that one?
Was debating over His, and RG-G's. Cost, and replies to emails made
my decision.

I do like the looks of the RG-G though.

Any input would be appriciated!!!

Dennis
| 247|247|2005-12-18 10:02:52|James R. McCain, Jr.|New to the group|
Hello My names Jim McCain and Im new to the group. A friend of mine
and I are building two 1/3 scale models of a gatling gun using plans
from Douglas Schneider. I like the plans however wish it fired 22 lr
rather than 22 short. My friend is the machinist part of the team.
Im more into the finance and support end of the team. I have always
been interested in gatling guns and am looking forward to the
project. Does anyone have an idea about where to obtain inexpensive
barrels?
| 248|245|2005-12-19 02:40:05|thinwaterboats|Re: anybody making progress|
I received my D&E plans two days ago. They seem simple enough for my
basic machining level except the top plate assembly and some part with
ten groves that change angles three times within their length. I
considered casting the parts close to size then machining. I have a
12" rotary table but no dividing head. This may be a problem also.
I have had sucess obtaining several barells on Ebay last night at a
very good price. Any ideas are welcome.

JIM
| 249|249|2005-12-19 06:32:28|ljkjg|Gatling gun plans|
Obviously I'm new here. Hello to all of you. I have just stumbled on
to this site and it just reached out and grabbed my attention. Who,
how and where can I find out more about the different build plans for
these guns? How much are the plans? How much to build one? I have a
mill, lathe and all the other metal workging tools available and extra
machine shop help if needed. Any info would greatly be appreciated.

Thanks,

Larry
| 250|245|2005-12-20 14:25:08|Richard Thompson|Re: anybody making progress|
Hi and welcome aboard, I have built from the D+E plans and am very
happy with the results, my only complaint would be the couple of T-
slot cutters you have to make and the extractor seems a little thin.
The upside is its very detailed and for the most part all in scale.
My RG_G plans are under the christmas tree, will start that build in
a few weeks. A guy localy has built the RG-G just noy sure if he is
finished, I hope to get up with him in the next few days and compare
notes. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "denphillips2"

| 251|247|2005-12-20 14:35:11|Richard Thompson|Re: New to the group|
I initaly was a little bummed with the 22 short. I redrew the design
for 22lr but have not tested though. There is enough room in the
design to barely accomodate the 22lr. The cambox has to be redesigned
and I made the pan .10 longer. As far as cheap bbl stock goes there
are two solutions. Numrich has some nice 10"x .375diam 22l bbl liners
for $1.80 each that will need to be soldered in a sleeve of some sort.
The other method i used was to purchase some 24" bbls , if memory
serves they were about $20 each then I cut them in half, machined the
needed contour , then soldered the hex portion on in a seperate step.
Niether of these are easy but as requested are cheap. I think I have
some pics of my procedure on here somewhere. Merry Christmas. richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "James R. McCain, Jr."

| 252|249|2005-12-20 14:40:25|Richard Thompson|Re: Gatling gun plans|
Hi Larry, sounds like you have everything needed, add a little spare
time and some patience and you will be happiliy rewarded. I can only
speak for the D+E plans, santa-babe wont let me open the RG_G set for
a few more days. I will say the RG-G gun has a good following but for
some odd reason no one seams to want to post any pics of their build.
look in the links section and you will find links to both plans
suppliers and a number of links to guys sites that have finished the
D+E build. I will be building the RG_G soon enough and will post lots
of pics as I go. Welcome and enjoy. Richard

| 253|249|2005-12-20 15:25:04|Larry Galaske|Re: Gatling gun plans|

Richard, thanks, it's good to here from someone who has built one of these. I assume most people build the scale versions in .22 due to cost? The barrel liners or half barrels are no problem for me, I'm a welding engr. so, soldering, brazing, welding are no problem either.Just looking for a fun project. I'm anxious to see what you think of the RG-G plans.

Larry

| 254|245|2005-12-20 15:42:33|Richard Thompson|Re: anybody making progress|
HI Jim,If you have a rotary table you should be good to go. I used an
8" for all my parts. To hold the pan you mention with the 10 slots I
just mounted my blank on an arbor inserted into a #2 morse taper
collet in my rotary table, turned the table up vertical and cut each
slot in turn , cutting all the slots paralel to centerline first then
tilting the head on the mill to cut each of the angled areas by
plunging the endmill into the blank at the proper angle, same
procedure cut one groove then move to the next. Dont worry about the
width of the slot specified, just use a 1/4" ball end mill and make 2
passes around the blank for each slot of course moving the table over
a few thou between the two trips around,. Taking this approach will
involve making about 60 trips thru the blank with emill but the end
result will be a good usable part. i wouldnt worry to much about
exactly matching the listed angles, they just provide a relief area
for the rim of the cartridge to drop into so the fixed extractor can
get over the rim as it goes in the chamber. If it gives you lots of
trouble I have a couple of extra pans machined on cnc mill ready to
install for $65 each. All the 10 hole rings, bbl, breach and carrier
can all be set up on the centerline of the rotary table under the
spindle and machined fairly easy. I am not an experrt by any means but
have built a couple of these earlier this year, if you have any
questions I can help with feel free to ask, as my Grandfather used to
say , the only stupid questions are the one that go unasked.

Merry CHRISTmas, or for the thin skinned hypos, Happy HOLIdays, oh
wait websters defines holiday as short for HOLY DAY ,guess that makes
all these politicaly correct mouth farts idiots since thier PC
freindly non religous HAPPY HOLIDAYS is entirely religous in origin,
meaning and intent. Gosh I like pickin on liberals that spout off shit
with no idea of the meaning of the words coming out of their mouth.
Off the box. Merry Christmas. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "thinwaterboats"

| 255|245|2005-12-20 16:33:48|jim jones|Re: anybody making progress|
THANKS A LOT FOR THE INFO, IT WILL BE A BIG HELP.

MERRY CHRISTMAS ALSO!

jim

Richard Thompson
I am going to try and make this part next week (time permitting). If I hack it up I may take you up on the part for sale. Do you have any other parts for sale?

My father makes black powder rifles from scratch with no purchased plans. They come out as good as any custom guns I have ever seen despite his very worn out lathe and even worse mill. He is an engineer and makes his own plans. He is assisting me build a black powder rifle also so I hope the macnining skills will apply to this project also.

JIM

Richard Thompson
Thanks for all the info Richard!
I am sure I will be asking more questions thorugh out our build.
I was a little diappointed that the D&E plans were 22 short.
Nothing mentions it on his website. Just 22 cal. I guess I should
have asked. You said that you streched one to 22 LR. I know you
said that you have not fired it, but you have functioned it. Was
that with live ammo?
How hard was it to stretch to 22LR? Shorts being .686, and longs
being .985. .300 is quite a bit when you look at the size of
everything.
I got my plans yesterday, and forgot them at work so I can't look
through them right now.
Thanks!!!

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
heard
bet
streched
length
point
just
6bbl
those
it
destructive
to
3

| 258|245|2005-12-21 18:36:35|RTHOMPSON|Re: anybody making progress|
Glad to hear you are getting started, i have function tested both and they
feed and work just fine with live ammo, extractor fiting is no fun ,
although I have not installed a firing pin or mag in either so there maybe
something I am overlooking. It is a big stretch to use 22lr and the feed
cover should really be a little longer, but there is room in the cover and
the cam box has ample room for the stretch, the pan had to be a touch longer
and the thinner diameter on bolts stretched to match.

| 259|245|2005-12-21 18:56:32|denphillips2|Re: anybody making progress|
Thanks!
I havn't got started yet. Just going through some of the mentals of
the project. The Plans are going under the tree for my Grandpa. I
plan on doing it with him. I think we will go for the stretch to
22LR. Just plain ole cheaper to shoot. He is a retired machinest,
and I am a gunsmith. Between us I think we can handle it, but help
is always nice. I just got done going throug all of you pics. Have
to say "NICE WORK". A picture is worth a thousand words! Just
seeing the pan machined out helps a ton! I was wondering how the
solid extractor worked. Now I know. How did you do the bolt?
(which order did you machine it) FP hole, Lug and back, FP spring
hole/ theads, body, then front?

I am getting JACKED!!!!
Thanks!!!

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "RTHOMPSON"
fun ,
there maybe
the feed
cover and
touch longer

| 260|260|2005-12-21 19:24:47|Tom Ewing|Which plan to buy|
I have a friend who has access to CNC lathe and Mill, we are planning a joint project of making two guns for ourselfs. I have not purchased any plans yet, my question is do either RG-G or D&E by design benifit more from access to CNC machining ?
Thanks
Tom

| 261|260|2005-12-21 19:38:35|Dennis|Re: Which plan to buy|
Don't know about the CNC part. One thing that you may want to take
into consideration is that the D&E plans are for 22 short, adn the RG-
G are for 22LR. When I was looking, I got a lot more response from
Douglas at D&E then I did from Paul at RG-G. Another big diff between
the plans is that the RG-G has a cocking switch so you can rotate it
without firing it.
Good luck in your decision making!
Dennis

| 262|260|2005-12-21 20:29:20|Richard Thompson|Re: Which plan to buy|
I havent ripped into the rg-g plans yet but i know the D+E is a very
cnc friendly project, made all my bolts in a single day, one of the
pics I posted a while back shows the bolt in each stage from blank to
finished.I think all ten bbls ate up most of 2 days but alot of that
time was spent on final polishing. Also makes quick work of the
carrier, about 4hours, and makes the breach and bbl rings a breeze. If
you have access to a cnc rotary table to accompany the mill the pan
can be done if short order also. The side rails and front cross member
are probably the biggest thing that the cnc mill will speed up. the
cnc lathe will help immensly with all the round parts times 10 that
have to be built, i did all my lathe work other than parting on one of
the little 7x12 grizzly lathes converted to cnc, its kinda nice just
waking over and changing parts every 30 min or so.Still just as
challenging a project just minus all the hand wheel cranking, kinda
nice to go get coffee while the machine works away. MY.02 will post my
thoughts on the rg-g build after the 25th, will take a week or two to
round up all the materials and build will start

| 263|247|2005-12-22 08:46:54|James R. McCain, Jr.|Re: New to the group|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
redesigned
there
liners
sort.
the
step.
have
richard
mine
plans
22
team.
always
inexpensive
I ordered 10 of the 23 3/4 inch numrich barrels for 12.50 each will
probably order 10 more or just shorten the barrels to use the 10 we
ordered.

Jim
| 264|245|2005-12-22 19:21:13|James R. McCain, Jr.|Re: anybody making progress|
Richard,

I'd like to purchase one of those pans from you

Jim McCain
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
I
each
then
the
make 2
over
will
end
area
can
of
to
carrier
but
to
makes
origin,
shit
mouth.
for my
part
have a
also.
at a

| 265|265|2005-12-25 02:42:10|Jim|Machining tip|
Don't hold an end mill in a drill chuck, it will wait until you spend
about 1/2 hour making a part then come loose while still spinning and
bore a hole into the part in a critical area. I just got my mill last
month and have not bought a set of collets for it yet. I bought a drill
chuck and an R8 arbor for it so I could use it until I got a set of
collets. As I raised the quill and reached for the off switch the chuck
came off and drilled into the part (now scrap).

I have had good luck getting brass for the gun at an aluminum can scrap
metal dealer. He also deals in brass and stainless. He sells machine
shop drops for fifty cents per pound for brass or aluminum. He gets ten
cents a pound for stainless but rarely has drops.

JIM
| 266|265|2005-12-25 06:48:29|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: Machining tip|

I would not use an endmill in a collet either! They can slip and mess up you work or worse your table. I know from experience. Hold end mills in an endmill holder with a set screw!

    Merry Christmas,

            FAH
| 267|267|2005-12-25 17:44:39|Earl Flanigan|Re: Digest Number 108|
I know endmill holder with a

Absolutely! That flat isn't milled on there for
nothing. You can get a set of R8 chucks for about the
same price as a set of collets anyway.

__________________________________
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/
| 268|268|2005-12-25 19:12:21|Dennis|Barrel supplier info|
Please post the web link, telephone number or other contact info for
the supplier of the 23 3/4 inch barrels for $12.50 each. I am going to
start on my D & E project and would like to get my barrels.

Thanks Very Much
Dennis
| 269|245|2005-12-26 16:06:23|Richard Thompson|Re: anybody making progress|
Sounds good Jim, I will send you some pics later today or teusday AM
at the latest. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "James R. McCain, Jr."
slots
extractor
the
means
used
oh
off
I

| 270|265|2005-12-26 16:35:44|Richard Thompson|Re: Machining tip|
As you have learned you cant hold endmills with a drill chuck.
besides the runout and imbalance the drill chuck imparts , the
emills have spiral flutes and pull down on the chuck. The chuck just
bieng a friction fit on the tapered arbour will usually pop right
off as you discovered. A liitle success can be had with the staright
flute emills but the side load of cutting alone will usauly dislodge
the chuck if the emill is very big.
I use standard r-8 collets quite a bit for tools upto and including
1/2 inch although I do prefer the cnc type tool holders for heavy
work and roughing mills. The downside of the tool holders is they
are usualy about 1.375" longer than r-8 collets plus the length of
the fixed tool so in a lot of setups the short little r-8 collet
with easily removed tool is the best way to go. One of the mills I
use quite often is a round column bench mill that has only 4 iches
of quill travel, unless I raise the head and loose zero on all 3
axis there is no way to use the longer tool holders so the collet
works out best. I use the tool holders frequently on the bport since
zero can be maintaned while just raising or lowering the knee but I
have found that the single set screw used in the tool holders causes
my carbide tools to crack in time so again its back to the r-8
collet. enco and travers quite commonly have collets for $5 and the
tool holders for $10-15. Tormach make a great stubby little tool
holder system that cenetrs around a modified 3/4" collet and some
neat stubby little tool holders they make, might check them out if
you get a chance. Merry Christmas Richard

| 271|268|2005-12-26 17:50:43|Richard Thompson|Re: Barrel supplier info|
Here is the link, They also have some really nice 3/8 diam rifled bbl
liners aprox 10" long, $1.80 eah

http://www.e-gunparts.com Item # 931210

If you cant find it via this number look on the nav bar to the left
and click Gunsmitthing link then Barrels, its in the top 10 or so Items

| 272|245|2005-12-28 06:32:08|Dennis|Re: anybody making progress|
Well Richard......
You have had a couple days since Santa has been around. Got that RG-G
done yet?????????????????
Let us know how it shoots........
Hope you had a Merry Christmas, and will have a Happy and Safe New
year!

Dennis
| 273|273|2005-12-28 15:21:04|ljkjg|Larger caliber?|
Does anyone have plans for a larger caliber such as 7.62x39 or 51, or
8mm? Even original 45-70? Would love to build a full scale.

Larry
| 274|245|2005-12-28 15:55:18|Richard Thompson|Re: anybody making progress|
Hi Dennis
I have looked thru them, the design looks very workable but i get the
impression this paticular design is aimed at a builder with a lathe
and small manual mill only. Some of the components of the design are
over simplified to allow building with limited tooling, and in my
opinion are a little time consuming.I realize to appeal to the most
people things like this have to be simple enough to build in the
average garage. Great looking plans with tons of nice build tips but i
think I have a better mousetrap. I have a design for a 6 bbl gatling I
drew in autocad after finishing the first D+E that is much simpler
than either of these designs, although like the RG-G it isnt scale. My
design does away with some of the sleek look of the original gatling
but is fairly simple . I am currently finishing up a semi DShK and
some mg42 semi parts and will start the build from my design in a few
months if this semi RPD project and bren dont leap in the way. I have
worked up a beautiful set of prints for a camel length 9mm Gatling and
have had the first castings done but am in the process of the design
becoming someone elses who has the time and resources to actually
build and market.

The plans from Paul at RG-G are very complete and I am very glad to
add them to the collection. Richard

| 275|273|2005-12-28 16:07:57|Richard Thompson|Re: Larger caliber?|
I believe the design from D+E combined with the colt drawings here in
the files section would be a great place to start. Doug at D+E pulled
all his dimensions from real Gatlings, I believe he told me his dad
was in the movie gun rental business for a long time giving him access
to a few originals to make his drawings.
I have some for a 12ga I drew up for a fun little project but BATFE
has a hard stance on anything over 50 cal bieng a DD. I contacted them
about the project a while back and was told like the usas and striker
a 12ga gatling would have no "sporting purpose" and as such would be
considered a DD. Personaly I just wanted lots of smoke and bang with
12g shells loaded with slugs and BP, 12g would be perfect without the
worries of a projectile traveling to the next county. I personaly
figured the roughly 100 pound gun wieght combined with the relativley
short range of the 12g would be a lot less of a destructive device
than one chambered in 30-06 or 45-70, but hey what do I know.

| 276|276|2005-12-28 18:03:12|Richard Thompson|Another 22lr mini-gun|
Found this link on the 1919 board for a 22lr mini-gun
http://www.halomfg.com http://www.brass-cartridge.com looks just
super cant wait to see what they get to the market place.

Its alot smaller and looks more scale than the one T+L worked up a few
years back. Halo mentioned in the post that they were working on a
title 1 hand cranked version, just cant wait.
Hopefully the fellow from HALO will join the group here and keep us
posted.
| 277|277|2005-12-28 19:11:19|jbharned|RG-G gun build progress|
Greetings group. I am a toolmaker in Ohio and have been building a RG-
G based gun off and on for the past year. I finally got a DRO on my
mill at home and a small rotary table so I can get some more work done.
The biggest pain in the rear on the RG-G plans was the long broached
holes through the barrel plates,carrier block and support.If anyone
else is building this you can make it a lot easier by going to sears
and buying some 1/4" drive deep well sockets. Bore a hole through your
plate assys. Cut sections of the socket and braze them inside the
carrier plates and block assy. You can use a hex key to align them.
Much easier than making a broach up.
| 278|273|2005-12-28 23:51:08|b w|Re: Larger caliber?|
Hey Richard, are there any way a guy could get a set
of those 12ga plans?

--- Richard Thompson <panaceabeachbum@... wrote:

__________________________________
Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year.
http://brand.yahoo.com/cybergivingweek2005/
| 279|273|2005-12-29 00:15:36|Thomas Tallant|Re: Larger caliber?|
I wonder if we could start a new sport skeet with a 12 ga Gat ?TomT

| 280|276|2005-12-29 00:18:13|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Another 22lr mini-gun|
All he would have to do is replace the electric motor and
have some sort of output shaft so it could be turned by hand. Also
like the idea you'll be able to buy a 80% receiver. Though I do not
think he will be able to get it past Ca. I know many of my projects
will have to wait till I leave the state.

At 08:01 AM 12/28/2005, you wrote:

| 281|273|2005-12-29 00:22:00|b w|Re: Larger caliber?|
You would need an automatic thrower, I wonder if the
BATFE would consider that a DD

--- Thomas Tallant <thomas8482002@...
__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL Â– Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
| 282|282|2005-12-29 00:39:35|mark & reba beinke|(no subject)|

| 283|273|2005-12-29 03:36:56|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Larger caliber?|
Wonder if they would reconsider if you
designed it for slugs. Riffled barrel...

At 02:21 PM 12/28/2005, you wrote:

| 284|273|2005-12-29 03:43:27|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Larger caliber?|
Just to ask what about 410? You can get slugs for it. Seen
them advertised in Cheaper Then Dirt. Think AFT would allow 410
instead of 12g??

At 06:06 AM 12/28/2005, you wrote:

| 285|273|2005-12-29 05:14:59|Thomas Tallant|Re: Larger caliber?|
Dont know if it could begot around the DD if it could be it would be a lot of fun. Tom T:

| 286|273|2005-12-29 05:55:51|Dennis|Re: Larger caliber?|
That would give a new meaning to "The Flurry".
Oh, how fun that would be!!!!!

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Tallant
| 287|273|2005-12-29 06:00:54|Thomas Tallant|Re: Larger caliber?|
Loads!!!!!!!!!!!!!   Tom T

| 288|273|2005-12-29 06:18:33|Dennis|Re: Larger caliber?|
That would give a new meaning to "The Flurry".
Oh, how fun that would be!!!!!

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Thomas Tallant
| 289|276|2005-12-29 06:18:41|Dennis|Re: Another 22lr mini-gun|
If that doesn't look intersting, I don't know what does.
Deep us posted Richar if you hear anything else on it. I would just
like to see how it works. I guess I am into that. Wanting to know
how things work.

I like those drawings on that page.

Richard, how is the CD from RG-G?

Thanks,
Dennis
| 290|273|2005-12-29 11:19:17|Harry Connors|Re: Larger caliber?|

For my USAS12 I had a special barrel made with the chamber for a tampered 12 gauge (only the BATF measures the 12 gauge in caliber) to .48 caliber. I use Russian 12 gauge brass and run it down to .48 caliber in a die I turned down. The Russian Brass is soft but not too soft and tampers down without crimping the sides (well most of the time). After that, just reload the case as a 12 gauge. I was concerned at first that the pressure would be too high and under loaded the case at 10% but the action would not cycle so I worked my way up to regular loads and it works fine.

I am working on a casing die for slugs right now just cannot find the time as the Army keeps me busy.

Harry

-----Original Message-----
From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Thomas Tallant
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:15
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [GatlingGun] Re: Larger caliber?

Dont know if it could begot around the DD if it could be it would be a lot of fun. Tom T:

| 291|276|2005-12-29 15:05:43|Richard Thompson|Re: Another 22lr mini-gun|
I think thats the approach he is taking, no motor mount , just a
hand crank. The problem as i see it is BATFE decided that the
minigun, hand cranked or not is a machine gun and is not covered
under the Gatling "umbrella" as it shares no common parts and the
feed device is pointed out as not of gatling type. I really hope he
gets a title 1 design thru tech but i am sure a miniature mini gun
will be classed just like the original.

here is the clipit I just pulled off the batfe website detailing
that the mini gun is in no way a Gatling, I hate it cause i really
want one in 22 but here it is.
*********************************************************************
"ATF and its predecessor agency, the Internal Revenue Service (IRS),
have historically held that the original, crank-operated Gatling
Gun, and replicas thereof, are not automatic firearms or machineguns
as defined. See Rev. Rul. 55-528, 1955-2 C.B. 482. The original
Gatling Gun is a rapid-firing, hand-operated weapon. The rate of
fire is regulated by the rapidity of the hand cranking movement,
manually controlled by the operator. It is not a "machinegun" as
that term is defined in 26 U.S.C. 5845(b) because it is not a weapon
that fires automatically.

The Minigun is not a Gatling Gun. It was not produced under the
1862 - 1893 patents of the original Gatling Gun. While using a basic
design concept of the Gatling Gun, the Minigun does not incorporate
any of Gatling's original components and its feed mechanisms are
entirely different. Critically, the Minigun shoots more than one
shot, without manual reloading, by a single function of the trigger,
as prescribed by 26 U.S.C. 5845(b). See United States v. Fleischli,
305 F.3d 643, 655-656 (7th Cir. 2002). See also Staples v. United
States, 511 U.S. 600, 603 (1994) (automatic refers to a weapon
that "once its trigger is depressed, the weapon will automatically
continue to fire until its trigger is released or the ammunition is
exhausted"); GEORGE C. NONTE, JR., FIREARMS ENCYCLOPEDIA 13 (Harper
& Rowe 1973) (the term "automatic" is defined to include "any
firearm in which a single pull and continuous pressure upon the
trigger (or other firing device) will produce rapid discharge of
successive shots so long as ammunition remains in the magazine or
feed device in other words, a machinegun"); WEBSTER'S II NEW
RIVERSIDE -UNIVERSITY DICTIONARY (1988) (defining automatically
as "acting or operating in a manner essentially independent of
external influence or control"); JOHN QUICK, PH.D., DICTIONARY OF
WEAPONS AND MILITARY TERMS 40 (McGraw-Hill 1973) (defining automatic
fire as "continuous fire from an automatic gun, lasting until
pressure on the trigger is released").

The term "trigger" is generally held to be the part of a firearm
that is used to initiate the firing sequence. See United States v.
Fleischli, 305 F.3d at 655-56 (and cases cited therein); see also
ASSOCIATION OF FIREARMS AND TOOLMARK EXAMINERS (AFTE) GLOSSARY 185
(1st ed. 1980) ("that part of a firearm mechanism which is moved
manually to cause the firearm to discharge"); WEBSTER'S II NEW
RIVERSIDE- UNIVERSITY DICTIONARY (1988) ("lever pressed by the
finger in discharging a firearm").

Held, the 7.62mm Minigun is designed to shoot automatically more
than one shot, without manual reloading, by a single function of the
trigger. Consequently, the 7.62mm Minigun is a machinegun as defined
in section 5845(b) of the National Firearms Act. See United States
v. Fleischli, 305 F.3d at 655-56. Similarly, the housing that
surrounds the rotor is the frame or receiver of the Minigun, and
thus is also a machinegun. Id.; see 18 U.S.C. 921(a)(23); 27 CFR
478.11, 479.11.

To the extent this ruling is inconsistent with Revenue Ruling 55-528
issued by the IRS, Revenue Ruling 55-528, 1955-2 C.B. 482, is hereby
modified."
*****************************************************************

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
not
projects
a few
us

| 292|292|2005-12-30 02:25:12|raymo123456|drilling bolt carrier|
Hello, does any one have any tips for drilling the holes in the bolt
carrier, such as; changing bit sizes, using normal twist drills,
keeping hole straight..... Thanks Ray M.
| 293|292|2005-12-30 05:57:48|Richard Thompson|Re: drilling bolt carrier|
I guess patience would be my first comment, I found drilling and
reaming all 10 hole took about 4 hours. I machined all mine from
bronze and found that the bit starts to dull around the 5th hole so
have a spare bit as you dont want the bit to wander. I also used a bit
1 size smaller than i would normaly use before reaming a 7/16 hole and
found that out of 7 carriers I had at least 1 hole on everyone that
the bit wandered just far enough that the reamer couldnt quite clean
up. Good thing is as long as the runout isnt much you can make that
the backend which isnt quite as critical as chamber end and a properly
sharpened reamer will go straight and usualy not follow a crooked
pilot hole unless you are real heavy handed. My only other comment
would be to proceed very carefully when turning away the rear section
of the outside of carrier as its an interupted cut and make sure to
put some 7/16 rod of some sort in the holes near the jaws of your
chuck so you dont deform the bores while turning. The only other
processes that made me more nervous than turning the carrier were
threading the outside of rec casing without hitting rail, I have a
real neat method for this and the shallow internal cascable threads,
and the turning of the extractor groove in the bbl assembly. hope some
of this rambling helps, hopefully one of the other guys will chime in
with some suggestions, since everyday is a learning curve for me I am
always open to suggestions

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "raymo123456" bolt

| 294|294|2005-12-31 16:57:45|Tom Ewing|Gadner style|
Just wondering has any of the hobby machinist tried making this type of
gun in a 1/2 or 1/3 scale. Looks like and interesting piece of
hardware.
| 295|294|2005-12-31 18:39:34|fah2ue@aol.com|Re: Gadner style|

http://www.gardnerguns.com/Products.htm
| 296|294|2006-01-01 18:33:21|Richard Thompson|Re: Gadner style|
There is a link in links section

| 297|297|2006-01-01 18:47:28|Earl Flanigan|Re: Digest Number 114|
The crank/cam mechanism would be easily done. Just go
to a scrap yard and get a crankshaft from a small
6-cylinder engine!LOL!

__________________________________________
Yahoo! DSL Â– Something to write home about.
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
| 298|298|2006-01-05 14:17:50|Richard Thompson|Gardner Gun progress?|
Hi all
anybody heard from Joe over at http://www.gardnerguns.com/ ?
Super neat scaled model of the Gardner in 22mag. Cant wait to see one
up close and personal
| 299|100|2006-01-13 05:35:15|swordyarbrough|Re: Plans from D+E|
Richard Thompson,
I'm a new member and glad to find this site. A friend of mine owns a
machine shop with cnc machines and we want to build ourselves a Gatlin
Gun so I bought a set of plans from Doug at D+E, that was more than a
year ago. My friend is so busy he says he hasn't got time to write the
gcodes. I called Doug, he said he couldn't help. Did you write your own
or did you find someone who did? Also I see you changed your's to 22lr
which I want to do also. Would greatly appreiciate any information. I
would like to get started.
Thanks
Bill Yarbrough

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
| 300|100|2006-01-15 16:28:58|Richard Thompson|Re: Plans from D+E|
I just re-drew the neccesary parts in the cad program I use and
generated the gcodes with deskcnc for the rails , crank and other
parts cut from flat stock. The round parts cut on the cnc lathe I
wrote the codes manualy . Other than cutting the extractor groove
and parting the bbl and breach rings from a big piece of stock all
the lathe work was done on a little 7x12 lathe. You could use this
as an opportunity to learn computer drafting and gcode programing,
If interested I can direct you to some software that might help get
you started, just a thought.

The change to 22lr just involved stretching the pan slightly,
shortining the carrier and redrawing the cams for the increased
stroke. The extractors are somewhat thin and the 22lr requires alot
more force to extract than 22 short, both from increased surface
area of the longer case and higher chamber pressure generated so the
conversion to 22lr may not work out so well.

I cut the cams on a 4 axis mill but to be honest you could make a
paper template , glue it on with 77 adhesive and just trim to the
line. As doug points out machining this part on a rotary table is
the only way to get 100% contact with the lugs on the bolts as the
face of tha cams is an ever changing radius but a workable set of
cans can be built by hand.
Hope some of that helps. Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "swordyarbrough"
Gatlin
than a
the
your own
22lr
information. I
spent
top
main
suprised a
list

| 301|100|2006-01-19 20:34:43|swordyarbrough|Re: Plans from D+E|
Hi Richard,
Got your message. Appreciate your offer to help out. I'm not very
computer wise so I'm not sure that I'd be able to do it, but if you
could tell me the program that you used and if it's possible to email
me some drawings so I could see what it's supposed to look like that
might help me out. Also, I see one of your hobbies is hunting and
fishing. That's great, I do a lot of hunting and fishing myself.
How did your season go? I had a great season, can't wait tell next
year. You can email information to gwen_sword@...
Look forward to hearing from you.
Bill Yarbrough
PS how you coming on the RG-G gun?

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
owns
write
anyone

| 304|100|2006-01-23 19:19:44|Richard Thompson|Re: Plans from D+E|
Hi Bill, I use a simple cad program called ModelCad for all my
drawing. The other software I use for generating gcodes and other 3d
machining files and controlling the machinery in my shop is DeskCNC.
Very nice software that allows mill to interface with digitizing
probe and a whole host of other features. With just a little
practice with the included tutorial you can generate 3d tool paths
from 2d cad drawings in a number of diff formats. Here is a link to
the software, go to the download page and get a copy of the program,
everything is functional other than the portion which allows control
of machinery, look around the site and you will find the tutorials.
http://www.deskcnc.com/

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "swordyarbrough"
you
email
that
other
I
groove
all
this
programing,
get
alot
a
the
is
the
of
a
to
have
are
the
include a

| 305|100|2006-01-24 07:44:33|Andrew K|Re: Plans from D+E|
Richard,

I'd like to get some more information about the desktop CNC program. As I look at the website it apears that they sell a complete system less the stepper motors and gearing. Is this correct? In other words could I build the stepper drives for my bridgport and attach the controler they sell? Then just start using their system?

Hope I'm not bothering you much about this. I'm a tool and die maker for 15 years and I'd like to upgrade my home bridgport to something more useful, like this.

Regards,

Andy

Richard Thompson
I dont mind answering questions about CNC machining at all,if you
look at the gallery section on their site you will see pics of the
timing cogs I make. I also sell some of their products on my site
www.thompsonmachine.net I have spent 20 years turning hand wheels to
figure out after fitting servo motors I can achieve in an hour what
used to take all day.

The desckcnc controller and software will allow you to control any
of the popular drives/amplifiers available for either servo motors
or steppers. I prefer servo motors as they have a rotary encoder
that sends feedback to the drives and eliminates missed steps.
Deskcnc sells drives for either servo motors or steppers but both
have a max rating of 5 amps at 30v which is suitable for benchtop
machining. For your bridgeport you will need to use larger drives
like the gecko which have a rating of 20 amps at 80v . here is a
link to their site, they have drives for servo and stepper motors
http://www.geckodrive.com/ The desckcnc controller and software will
work with any of the available drives that except step and direction
input, I commonly attach my controller to a small lathe then later
in the day attach it to the bridgeport, the software also has
multiple config files which make swapping back and forth easy. There
are systems out that will allow the drives to be attached thru the
printer port but most are marginal at best and most pc's send a
clear paper signal thru the printer port at startup, had a power
surge years ago, almost lost a thumb. The deskcnc controller
interfaces thru the paralel port and has its own onboard
clock/processor and isnt effected by things running in the
background on your pc. It also includes inputs for both e-stop
switches and home switches , digitizing probe, and cycle start and
pause buttons, it most closely duplicates the features of large
commercial machining centers. One other feature I have yet to play
with is the input for a spindle encoder to allow thread milling , or
threading on a lathe. This controller will also run 4 axis at the
same time, I use the 4th axis (A) for the knee most of the time but
will unplug it and plug in my rotary table when i need to do 4th
axis work.
as far as motors go i prefer the dc brush type servo motors, they
run cool and with the gecko drives they are silent and very
accurate. If you watch ebay you will find them occasionaly for very
little, The ones I am running on my bridgeport are reliant and were
bought new old stock for $160 each, I bought 4 and also power the
knee, if you drop me a line at my email I will send you the guys
info as I think he has a bunch, I also use the same ones on my big
lathe.If you find motors your unsure about feel free to ask , I am
an honest person and will not steal any deal you find so dont
hesitate to ask. For refrence the motors I use are rated 600 in oz,
1/2hp, 120 volt dc. I am operating them at 48 volts. One of my other
machines, 9x20 lathe is working well with 100 in oz, 24 volt motors,
I operate them at 36 volts. Steppers are rated differently and I
cant give any input on them.
Hope some of this helps, If interested I stock most of the products
that deskcnc makes as well as having some other components that
might help with your conversion and will be happy to post a few pics
of the parts I built to convert my bridgeport and the method I used
to attach a ball screw to the quill. Dont hesitate to ask if you
have any questions , not much gatling activity anyway. Richard

| 307|307|2006-01-25 23:19:09|ernestcoy|PISTOL PLANS|
Hi Guys
Great group-I will enjoy reading all this info.
What I am really wanting though, is plans for an old style single shot
target pistol.
There used to be plans sold in some of the gun mags, but I was not into
building then.
Or is there a group that would be for this type of thing?
Thanks
Ernie
| 308|307|2006-01-26 17:13:27|superfluities1|Re: PISTOL PLANS-try here|
try here also:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gunkitbuilders/
| 309|307|2006-01-26 22:13:22|ernestcoy|Re: PISTOL PLANS-try here|
Thanks
Ernie
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "superfluities1"
| 310|298|2006-02-17 01:24:49|SJ|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
Hello Richard,
Just checking in. I've been lurking over at weaponeer...you and I
seriously need to get together some time! Anyway, the Gardner is
coming along quite nicely. I will be taking the gun to Knob Creek in
April.

Regards,
Joe
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"

| 311|298|2006-02-21 05:25:21|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
I plan to be there if I can curb my spending long enough to save up
gas money, wife says no cc allowed on this visit to the creek.Cant
drive the truck either, I guess she gets a little smarter every
year,LOL Hope to see you there, do you have a space on the line? I
guess you'll be easy to find with a scale gardner, hand crankers
draw me like a magnet.

| 312|312|2006-02-21 05:29:31|Richard Thompson|new gatling type gun on the market|
Reading the most recent SAR I see valkyrie (if I remeber correctly) is
offering a .223 minigun style hand cranked gun. Add says .308 and .50
cal coming soon. At $25k for the .223 I wont be signing up, but it
sure looks neat. Add mentions its a hand cranked semi but pic shows an
electric motor.
| 313|312|2006-02-21 05:37:51|Scott A. Stephens|Re: new gatling type gun on the market|
Is this the place that was also going to offer plans???

At 07:29 PM 2/20/2006, you wrote:

| 314|298|2006-02-21 14:52:54|groups@gardnerguns.com|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
I understand what you mean about the spending. I've been grabbing up kits for post samples as I feel these are the good old days. So far I have a zb-37, sg-43, PKM, Bren, Sterling, RPD's, 1910 Maxim, Thompson, Austen, and a Schwarzlose to build. Still thinking of getting one of those New 1910 kits from AA as they are beautiful. I would buy a bunch more but most of the money has to go to the Gardner for now.

I don't have a space on the line, but I am trying to get some table space. I'm really in the crush to have the gun firing in time. It's been an exceedingly difficult piece to produce.

Joe

| 316|298|2006-02-22 17:22:27|superfluities1|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
Hey Joe,
What's a Austen?
Definatly get one of those Maxim kits.I got one from the last
Weaponneer buy and it's as new( the mount was used) get a tool kit
if possible has a lot of new gaskets and packings for the barrel and
snow cap. I think I'll regret not getting 10 of them.

| 317|298|2006-02-22 17:37:27|groups@gardnerguns.com|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
The Austen was literally the Australian STEN. It was more closely related to the MP-28 than the sten and is a model of what a bureaucracy can produce...pure stupidity. Take the simple STEN, make it infinately more complicated and delicate, share as few common parts with the the STEN as possible to assure production problems and then ignore the best design your country has ever produced...the OWEN. Mine is like new and a very very interesting piece of history. I'm just glad that I didn't have to carry one into combat. Some 20,000 were made and almost none have survived.

Thanks for the heads-up on the Maxim kit...I'm gonna have to get one.

Joe

| 318|298|2006-02-23 02:20:32|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
You have a link to who is selling the kit's???

At 07:22 AM 2/22/2006, you wrote:

| 319|298|2006-02-23 13:02:25|groups@gardnerguns.com|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
Scott,
If you mean the 1910 Maxim kits, it's Allegheny Arsenal at www.mg34.com.

Joe

| 320|312|2006-02-24 02:39:55|Richard Thompson|Re: new gatling type gun on the market|
not as far as i know, they are the group with the semi m3 grease gun
and delisle carbine. I was off on the price, its $30k

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Scott A. Stephens"
and .50
shows an

| 321|298|2006-02-24 02:44:28|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Gun progress?|
you guys are right the 1910 from mg34.com is just awesome, it might
no be usable for the semi build but IMA has some nice original left
hand sideplates for $150. Does a really nice job of kinda holding
everything together for display.
wish I could find an sg43, I have a bbl, rec and a few other parts
but still need a top cover and internals if anybody knows a source
please send me an email

| 323|323|2006-03-31 14:21:35|xrjebxrpvdco|Get your federal firearms license and buy guns wholesale|
If you have ever purchased Firearms through the Internet or Mail Order,
you are aware of the transfer fees most Dealers charge to accept a
Firearm, conduct a background check and deliver the firearm to you. I
know because I am a Federal Licensed Firearms Dealer. Most of us charge
a standard fee ranging from $15.00 to $50.00 and sometimes more. If you
purchase just a few firearms a year you can save by Obtaining Your FFL
TM. Just think of the cost savings alone of buying a low wholesale
prices and then your opportunity to resell to others for profit.
http://guns.warp0.com/homegun.htm
| 325|325|2006-04-16 17:51:11|lost puppy|membership:D|
Hello,

Thank You for the nice email
To learn more about the GatlingGun group, please visit
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun

To start sending messages to members of this group, simply
send email to
GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com

If you do not wish to belong to GatlingGun, you may
unsubscribe by sending an email to
GatlingGun-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

To see and modify all of your groups, go to
http://groups.yahoo.com/mygroups

Regards,

lostpuppy

New Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Call regular phones from your PC and save big.
| 326|326|2006-04-16 19:57:33|tomwait308|New to group.|
Hi everyone,
I just joined the group and thought I'd introduce myself. I'm a
gunsmith with a manufacturing license. I'm building two RG-G gats now
in 22LR.
I'll be 'upping the ante' so to speak later with a scaled up version.
Maybe 38sp or 9MM. Are any group members building such a gun? Also need
drawing or photos of a suitable tripod.
Tom Wait
Barton Rifle Shop
1805 Barton Ave. #9
West Bend, Wisconsin
(262) 306-RFL (7435)
| 327|323|2006-04-19 00:06:25|chiroone2001|Re: Get your federal firearms license and buy guns wholesale|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "xrjebxrpvdco" Order,
you. I
charge
If you
FFL
Not quite as simple as that. Feds area aware of people doing this
and are really cracking down on 'home based dealers"

You will be in probable violation of local zoning laws.

And to boot, you can get all these forms free on the ATF web site.
| 328|328|2006-04-19 00:12:55|chiroone2001|Who do the plans from RG-G compare to those from D&E?|
I own a set of the D&E plans and was considering the RG-G plans as
well.

HAs any one compared the two plans and would care to opine which is
the easier to assemble?
| 329|328|2006-04-21 20:30:08|Richard Thompson|Re: Who do the plans from RG-G compare to those from D&E?|
I have both and prefer to build from the D+E

| 330|328|2006-04-29 06:30:09|jim jones|Re: Who do the plans from RG-G compare to those from D&E?|
I have the D @ E plans I purchased from the maker and ten barrels (full length misc brands) that I bought on E Bay to complete the gun. I have no time to complete the project and will sell all for $100.

The plans are in the original envelope from D and E (No pirated copies) and I have some nice pictures of completed guns that came with them.

reply to spytape@... or Thinwaterboats@...

Thanks,

JIM

Richard Thompson
what are the caliber of the barrels?

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, jim jones (full length misc brands) that I bought on E Bay to complete the
gun. I have no time to complete the project and will sell all for
$100.
copies) and I have some nice pictures of completed guns that came
with them.
wrote:
as
is
Service.

| 334|334|2006-05-11 05:23:43|dale detrich|D&E 1874 1/3 scale colt gatling gun plans and RGG gun plans|
Hello all....I feel that I can shed some light on the D&E Plans and
the RGG gun plans.....I have built and finished both the D&E 1874 Colt
gatling gun and also the RGG gun.....I built the guns from 1996 to
about 2001 ( a lot of time).....I built both guns on a Smithy cb1220 3
in 1 machine....I first built the RGG gun from the plans from that
time .....as I finished the RGG gun I then started to build the D&E
1874 colt from the plans at that time....The RGG gun had a "lots" of
problems, and took a bunch of rework to finish ....The D&E 1874 colt
gun was built off of the (then) plans with little rework.....I think
that both sets of the plans have been updated at this time....I have
seen the "new" D&E plans , and they are much improved over the plans
that I used......The D&E designer has his home tel. # and address on
the plan set, and can be contacted if there is any build
problems.....RGG I am not sure of.....If you have any questions,
please contact me off thread at my email address...This is just my
$0.02 worth...dplugs39
| 335|335|2006-05-11 05:54:45|dale detrich|Photos of the D&E 1/3 scale Colt and RGG gatling guns|
Hello all....I posted a couple of pictures of my D&E 1874 Colt and the
RGG gatling guns in the photos section....dplugs39
| 338|335|2006-05-20 16:06:11|Richard Thompson|Re: Photos of the D&E 1/3 scale Colt and RGG gatling guns|
Beautiful gun, it was the pics on your sight that inspired me to start
my gatling last year. Would you post a link to your weppage so folks
could marvel at some of your engine builds?

| 339|335|2006-05-20 22:25:26|Dale|Re: Photos of the D&E 1/3 scale Colt and RGG gatling guns|

Hello Richard........Thank you for the kind words........My web site can be seen at   www.daledetrich.com   , it has "some" of my "stuff"........Thanks again ......Dale Detrich

| 344|344|2006-07-07 22:51:13|jvalukievic708|D&E plans|
By chance do you still have the D&E plans and barrels? I am interested
if so. Thanks John
| 345|344|2006-07-08 03:56:16|jim jones|Re: D&E plans|
Yes, they are for sale again, I had decided to keep them but still have not done anything with them. $100 for ten barrels (at least two are long enough to cut in half for 2 gatling gun barrels) and the full set of plans in the makers envelope. Plus actual shipping costs as they are a bit heavy. I think shipping was $25 for the barrels when I bought them and about $4.00 for the plans.

I am in DeLand (Central) Florida. You may pick up if you are close enough.

JIM

jvalukievic708
I will be in Disney next week, I am up in Cleveland, Just to confirm the barrels are .22? Please get a total to me and method of payment preffered and I will be back in touch when I return from Disney
Thanks John
jim jones
My name is Tom. I am a 30 year firearms engraver and gun builder. I
have, for many years, been interested in a .22LR Gatlin gun.
Panacebeachbum, from Weaponeers, is producing some top drawer parts,
so I jumped. I look forward to input from others to fully enjoy this
journey.

All the Best

Tom
| 348|348|2006-07-31 18:40:24|Richard Thompson|welcome aboard|
welcome to the group Tom, make sure to look thru the photos section.
Dave posted some pics of an original from the colt museum.

I have 4 extra bolt carriers, pans and some other small parts if
anybody needs a few of the harder parts
| 349|349|2006-08-21 05:38:12|Richard Thompson|WTS a few Gatling Parts|
I have an extra set of gatlin parts machined for a gun I just dont
see having time to build. They include

tapered side rails

Bronze Bolt carrier

Pan

Rim stop

front bbl ring

Rear bbl ring

3 piece main shaft.

These parts are all new and are ready for use in building a 10 bbl
22 Gatling Gun using the plans available from D+E
http://www.modelgatlinggunplans.com/

here is a link to a few pics

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/gat/gatparts1.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/gat/gatparts2.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/gat/gatparts3.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/gat/gatparts4.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/gat/gatparts5.jpg

__________________
www.thompsonmachine.net/gun.htm
| 350|350|2006-08-22 02:18:07|Dave|I am also new here|
Hi my name is Dave. I discovered this site from the Weaponeer.net site.

Hello Richard and Tom.

I am software engineer with the desire to learn how to be an amateur
machinist. I have a Logan lathe from my grandpa that is just waiting
for a cool project like this. I still do not have a mill, have
considered building one or just buy a cheap Chinese one.

I am not sure on how difficult this project will be but I will be soon
ordering the CD of plans soon. A .22 gatling gun would really be cool.

As for the .gif files on the files dir, I also received the dreaded
red `x' when I tried to view. Right clicking on the link and doing a
save as worked to download the files.
| 351|351|2006-08-22 02:30:33|mfrbush|Yuasa Rotary TAble|
Hey guys, does anyone have any idea where I might lay my hands on a
Yuasa 6" tilting rotary table (model 550-206). There are alot of 10
and 12" tilting Yuasa's on eBay but I never see a small one. Vertex
now is offering a 6" tilting rotary for aroung 500 bucks but I had
rather have the Yuasa. Thanks Fred B
| 352|351|2006-08-22 02:41:10|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Yuasa Rotary TAble|

try MSC
| 353|351|2006-08-22 02:49:16|mfrbush|Re: Yuasa Rotary TAble|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, mtolb25356@... wrote:
I checked with MSC and almost had a heart attack. Around 4500.00 new
price. One would think that the increased use of CNC would eliminate
the demand for manual rotary tables. Surely there are some used ones
lying hidden about with no one to love them any more.
| 354|351|2006-08-22 10:50:24|mtolb25356@aol.com|Re: Yuasa Rotary TAble|

ebay?
| 355|355|2006-09-27 05:45:12|kc17041x|Where to find 22lr 12" long barrels?|
I would like to find 10 12" or longer 22 cal barrels. Anybody have a
good link? Thanks
| 356|355|2006-09-27 20:54:48|David Boles|Re: Where to find 22lr 12" long barrels?|
You might try RimfireCentral,com
The Ruger 10/22 semi auto rifle owners often upgrade the barrel for a
target barrel.
Most owners that make this conversion will readily sell the original.
The original barrel is machinable into 12" long barrel as you
reference.
This is how I obtained the one's I used. Dave

| 357|357|2006-09-27 20:58:36|Fred|Re: [SPAM] [GatlingGun] Where to find 22lr 12" long barrels?|

If you want factory made barrels then I would check your local gun shows for take off barrels. Sometimes there are good deals and other times they want to rob you. The main problem with this is that they are usually different diameters which means extra maching time. Check www.e-gunparts.com Their part number is #588180. They sell barrel liners that are 26 inches in length and 5/16 OD. 22 cal 6 groove with a 1 in 16 twist for $21.00 so you can get two barrels from one liner. I purchase 1/2 OD x 5/16 ID DOM tubing from SpeedyMetal for about two bucks for a 12 inch length. You will need to ream out a couple of thousandths for the liner to slip in. Then solder or epoxy in the liner. This is a quick and easy operation to do and they will polish up smoother than a new born baby's butt. Hope this helps.

| 358|357|2006-09-27 21:10:56|Tom Wait|Re: [SPAM] [GatlingGun] Where to find 22lr 12" long barrels?|

| 359|357|2006-09-28 05:25:24|kc17041x|Re: [SPAM] [GatlingGun] Where to find 22lr 12" long barrels?|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Wait" times they want to rob you. The main problem with this is that they
are usually different diameters which means extra maching time. Check
www.e-gunparts.com Their part number is #588180. They sell barrel
liners that are 26 inches in length and 5/16 OD. 22 cal 6 groove with
a 1 in 16 twist for $21.00 so you can get two barrels from one liner.
I purchase 1/2 OD x 5/16 ID DOM tubing from SpeedyMetal for about two
bucks for a 12 inch length. You will need to ream out a couple of
thousandths for the liner to slip in. Then solder or epoxy in the
liner. This is a quick and easy operation to do and they will polish
up smoother than a new born baby's butt. Hope this helps.
of junk. They were rusted inside and out. I raised hell (politley)
and told them to replace them with good liners or refund my money.
They cheerfully (?) refunded my money. I then bought liners from
Brownells and with my dealers discount they cost a little more than
the liners from eGun-parts. They are very good quality.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
9/26/2006
Thanks to everybody for the info and link. I'll have to look at both
numrich and bronells for liners.
| 361|361|2006-09-28 05:29:29|kc17041x|Which plans are easier to build D&E or RG-G|
Has anybody here built a full scale or 3/4 scale 22 cal gatling?
Which prints are better for me if I don't care about orginal looks and
will take the least amount of time to build? D&E or RG-G plans.
Also is there a differance in the maxium rate of fire between the two?
Thanks
| 362|362|2006-10-09 03:37:41|Jon|Gatling Gun Shoot|
Sunday afternoon on Nov. 5th. there will be a Gatling Gun Shoot below
Lancaster, PA. There will be 10 - 15 full size guns in 45-70, 30-40
Krag and 30-06. A lot of originals plus some by John Anderson in the
full size. Chris Latvinas will have some of his five barreled Bull-
dogs in 45-70 and a Gardner Gun in 45-70. There will probably be a
working Mini-Gun in 7.62 (308 Win.) that really spits out the ammo.
They will be shooting some Black-Powder original cannons and huge
mortars that are awesome. Also there will be some R-G's in 22 lr. It
is a fun afternoon.
For directions, please ask? Jon
| 363|362|2006-10-09 06:37:11|Scott A. Stephens|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
Attachments :
         Wish I could. If you can post some video or links to video's of the shoot.

At 06:24 PM 10/8/2006, you wrote:

| 364|362|2006-10-09 07:33:10|Matt Pierce|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
I wish I lived a little closer to PA Matt

| 365|362|2006-10-26 04:10:26|Jon|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Matt Pierce" 40
the
Bull-
a
ammo.
lr. It

| 366|362|2006-10-26 05:24:10|sarmourer|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Jon" <6ppcn133@... below
the
It
Gooday from Australia.
Do you know if any video either from a web site or DVD, personal video
or photos will be available after,or posted. I wish that I could also
be there as Gatlings have been a passion since first seeing one in a
western as a kid.

I am interested in the beaten zone and effect on target as writeups
from the 1890's against single shot rifles were not as good as
expected but records of the Zulu wars are quite graphic as to the
vision of a Mexican wave effect of the enemy in massed attack as if
laying down under the withering fire.

I have seen modern Gatlings the minigun and GAU's in the military and
they are awesome weapons.
Philip
| 367|367|2006-11-03 23:28:50|wesley5060|wanted|
Hi all,l no this is not gattling related but need to get this project
out the way before l start on my gattling gun,what l am after is a
drawing showing how the breech etc works on the German Pak 43/41 88mm
gun,l have had good pictures of the gun to build from ,but no decent
details on the breech end, any of you got a book with details in you
can scan for me please,l keep looking at my gattling gun drawings and
want to make a start, but as l said l must finnish what l have
started, hope no body minds me asking this non gattling question.
regards wes
| 368|367|2006-11-04 02:31:15|david bell|Re: wanted|
Hi John

         No, I don't have any information you need on the German gun. I just saw your posting and thought I would say hello. I hope all goes well with you and the family.

                                                                                 Your Mate

                                                                                          Dave

wesley5060
Hello to John and Dave,

I really hope the mod or owner of this group don't
mind questions or comments other than those about
gatlings.

I would love to play with an 88mm but the biggest
barrel I have is a .50 and would love to build
something with it.

I would love to build a gatling but not in .22, prefer
.30 cal.............Any plans out there?

--- david bell <generalgorloff2@...
____________________________________________________________________________________
Get your email and see which of your friends are online - Right on the New Yahoo.com
(http://www.yahoo.com/preview)
| 370|367|2006-11-04 03:28:51|Richard Thompson|Re: wanted|
Hi guys, non gatling but still gun related messages are fine with
me. Feel free to post pics of your 88 if you want. I would love more
info on various feild pieces. There is a machinist near me that
built a scale pac howitzer about 2 feet long, fully functional
chambered for 12ga blanks. I am looking for info on various feild
and naval guns to build functional scale models of. There was an old
article in G+A about a japenese fellow that had built a bunch of
scale naval guns in diff bottle neck rifle cartridges.

| 371|367|2006-11-05 06:54:16|Scott A. Stephens|Re: wanted|
         Do a Google image search...I typed in "German 88" Got several pages of images.

At 04:20 PM 11/3/2006, you wrote:

| 372|367|2006-11-05 07:50:32|Devin cummings|Re: wanted|
Wes

You should check out

http://www.lonesentry.com/articles/50mm/

The gun they show was one that was encountered in North Africa and has a very nice layout of the breech. Though it is only a 50mm anti tank gun. Also I think that Aberdeen proving grounds has one on display that is an intact gun. They may have photos on a web site but I'm not sure.

Good Luck
Devin

"Scott A. Stephens"
Somebody has 3-4 home built gatlings for sale on Gunbroker. Weird
calibers too. Sorry no link I ran into them on my home computer.
| 374|367|2006-11-13 01:11:24|Scott A. Stephens|Re: wanted|
Attachments :
         I remembered that Linsey sells a book on lath operation were their are plans for desktop firing model of field piece. The book is called "Lathe work for beginners". Cal is .25 But you could scale it to what ever you want.

At 01:27 PM 11/3/2006, you wrote:

| 375|367|2006-11-13 23:37:20|wesley5060|Re: wanted|
Thanks scott have just placed an order for the book
wes
| 376|376|2006-12-17 19:51:34|Wes S|were are best .22 Short prices?|
I was ready to send off my order for the D&E plans when I thought to
ask which .22 rf it shoots. They indicated .22 short.

That seems to up the price of shooting it a bit.

So where is the best prices for 500+ rounds of .22 short?

Is there a plan set out there that is designed around .22LR?

Thanks,

Wes Szumera
| 377|377|2006-12-30 04:18:24|Jon|Anyone making a full size gun ?|
My gun is 98% done, a modified Model 1874. It has a Bruce Feed and a
Murphy Switch that the Model of 1874 didn't have. Instead of using
regular chrome-moly barrel steel for barrels it has 10 Stainless Steel
barrels, makes the up keep of the exterior of the barrels easier. I
have seen too many full size Gatling guns with rust on the exterior of
the barrels. Granted the SS barrels will rust all so, but the up keep
is easier by far. All that is left is install the Murphy Switch and
final polishing.
| 378|378|2006-12-30 04:33:00|Jon|Gatling Gun Shoot Nov. 5 in Lancaster, PA. on TV|
The shoot will be on TV the 3rd. or 4th. Friday in Jan. 2007. I
belive it will be on either the History or Discovery Channel. I will
recieve an actual date in the near future and post it here and Gat-
Chat.com. Jon
| 379|378|2006-12-31 00:01:17|wesley5060|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot Nov. 5 in Lancaster, PA. on TV|
That will be worth looking at, but l bet we dont get it shown in
england till the end of the year , we always seem to be months waiting
for good stuff.
wes

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Jon"
| 382|382|2007-01-11 22:57:39|Jon|Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatling Gu|
Was told today of Time,Date and Channel for footage of the
Lancaster,PA Gatling Gun Shoot that was held on Nov. 5th. 2006. It
will be on the Discovery "Military Channel", heading "Rapid Fire"
January 29th. 2007 at 10 PM (EST, I believe, was not told EST) Check
your channel listing for sure. The worst part is that I can not get
that channel, so I can't watch it. Would like some one to tape it for
me if possible. All so post you thoughts on the show. Any comments
would be appreciated. Jon
| 383|382|2007-01-13 20:25:07|cl_calkins|Re: Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatlin|
I set it to record on my TiVo. I also have a DVD recorder connected to
it. I'll be glad to make a copy for anyone who wants it. The
recordable DVD's only cost me about 25 or 50 cents, shipping will be
standard postage & the cost of a special envelope and once I have
burned the first one to DVD I can duplicate them on my computer in
just a few minutes each. So how does $3 a copy sound?
Let me know.
--Clarence

| 384|382|2007-01-14 20:02:58|sarmourer|Re: Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatlin|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "cl_calkins" I live in South Australia, Australia and would be interested in a copy
of the DVD.

I can forward the payment by Pay Pal if you have an account or we can
work it out.

I have been facinated by Gatlings since a kid, thanks for the
initiative. I have only worked on the GAU 20mm, but they are awesome.
I have plans for a .22 LR Gatling but have not progressed too far.
Philip
| 385|382|2007-01-20 20:25:57|cl_calkins|Re: Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatlin|
OK, I've got the program set to record on my DirecTV TiVo. Since the
program is only one hour and the DVD holds two, I will add a second
program coming up this week on the evooution of the machine gun which
I suspect will have history of the gatling gun in it.
I've had several people reply they want copies and I will take care of
all requests. I have purchased some slim DVD cases and I'll see if I
can't find a nice graphic for the jacket. ($3 per copy including
shipping within the US. If you are overseas it shouldn't be very much
more.)
--Clarence

| 386|382|2007-01-21 19:56:59|David Boles|Re: Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatlin|
Clarence,
I am also interested in a copy.
Hope you are successful in making the recording !
Thanks,
Dave Boles
Anderson, S.C.

| 387|382|2007-01-21 20:14:11|Dave|Re: Time, Date and Channel of TV show on Nov. 5th. Lancaster Gatlin|
Add me to your list. I would also like to see this.

Thanks,
Dave

| 388|362|2007-02-03 08:45:41|cl_calkins|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
I recorded the WEAPONOLOGY program titled RAPIDFIRE from Discovery's
Military Channel on January 29th. I also recorded another program
featuring a Gatling gun off of the National Geographic channel. Each
show was one hour long (before commercials) and I have recorded both
programs to DVD. I had several requests for copies at $3 each
(incudes S&H within the US, slightly higher to Australia.)
There is maybe 10-15 minutes of Gatling gun information and shooting
at the first of each program. The NG program has some great shots of
a replica Gatling gun shooting black powder rounds. (Lots of colorful
sparks and flame blowing out the barrels!) Both programs then go on
to describe the development of machine gun improvements through World
War I, the Roaring Twenties, World War II, Viet Nam, until the
present iteration of the modern Gatling gun, the Vulcan used in the
A10 Wart Hog, which is given another 10 minutes in each film. Total
is about 90 to 100 minutes of rapid fire macine guns & history. Well
filmed and interesting as documentaries go.
Now if anyone still wants a copy, please email me again with your
address & I will get it ready to ship.
--Clarence in Idaho

| 389|362|2007-02-03 19:22:16|Jonathan & Cassie Price|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
Clarance, I would like to have a copy. My address will be below. What payment method do you prefer?

Jonathan Price

101 Foxport Road

Kingsport, TN 37664

--- cl_calkins@... wrote:

From: "cl_calkins"

I recorded the WEAPONOLOGY program titled RAPIDFIRE from Discovery's
Military Channel on January 29th. I also recorded another program
featuring a Gatling gun off of the National Geographic channel. Each
show was one hour long (before commercials) and I have recorded both
programs to DVD. I had several requests for copies at $3 each
(incudes S&H within the US, slightly higher to Australia.)
There is maybe 10-15 minutes of Gatling gun information and shooting
at the first of each program. The NG program has some great shots of
a replica Gatling gun shooting black powder rounds. (Lots of colorful
sparks and flame blowing out the barrels!) Both programs then go on
to describe the development of machine gun improvements through World
War I, the Roaring Twenties, World War II, Viet Nam, until the
present iteration of the modern Gatling gun, the Vulcan used in the
A10 Wart Hog, which is given another 10 minutes in each film. Total
is about 90 to 100 minutes of rapid fire macine guns & history. Well
filmed and interesting as documentaries go.
Now if anyone still wants a copy, please email me again with your
address & I will get it ready to ship.
--Clarence in Idaho

| 390|390|2007-02-03 19:29:41|Fred|Re: [SPAM] [GatlingGun] Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|

Clarence, I would appreciate a copy of both DVD's. How would you prefer to be paid? Check, money order, pigs, chickens. My address is

Fred Bush

1119 S. Bryan St.

Mesquite, Texas 75149

(972) 288-5696

| 391|362|2007-02-03 20:44:02|TOM EWING|Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
Yes I would love a copy just let me know were to send the money to.

Thanks

Tom

Tewing49@...

cl_calkins
OK, I have a PayPal account that works great for instant payments. It
is cl_calkins@...
First Class postage to Australia will probably be about a $1US more
than postage within the US.
It will take me a couple days to get the copies made & mailed (I have
a couple full time jobs in the real world.)
-_Clarence

| 393|390|2007-02-04 01:37:01|Fred|Re: [SPAM] [GatlingGun] Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|

Clarence, is there one DVD with two programs recorded or two DVD's, each with a individual program on it? Fred Bush

| 394|390|2007-02-06 21:41:05|cl_calkins|[SPAM] [GatlingGun] Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
It is ONE two hour DVD with TWO one hour programs (minus commercials).
My TiVo has recorded a couple other Military Channel programs on the
development of the machine guns, one of which, I think, is Civil War
era. (Maybe some more Gatling gun info...) I will watch it and if it
relates I think I can squeeze it on the DVD too. No extra charge. I
will let you know.
--Clarence

| 395|390|2007-02-14 18:22:22|cl_calkins|[SPAM] [GatlingGun] Re: Gatling Gun Shoot|
An Update.
Sorry for the delays, the programs were on my office TiVo and the DVD
recorder was in the family room, so I had to run some more cable to
connect everything, then fight my daughters for recording time.
Anyway, I've gotten 3 programs recoded, one from the Military Channel
on machine guns called "Rapid Fire", one from National Geographic
Channel on machine guns, and a third from the History Channel on the
Civil War. Each have a few minutes of gatling guns on them. After I
cut all the commercials, I had about 5 minutes left on the 2 hr DVD
which I filled with slow motion of the best segments from the gatling
gun shoot.
I've got the DVD copies made, the picture sleeve printed for the
plastic DVD jacket and am getting everything addressed to mail to the
several people that responded.
Tonight is Valentine's Day, so I'm taking my wife out to dinner,
(who's only shortcoming is she does not like guns,) which means I'll
probably get these in the mail on Thursday or Friday.
Thanks for your patience.
--Clarence

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "cl_calkins" commercials).
the
War
it
DVD's,
(I
money
channel.
recorded
through
the
in
history.
70,
Anderson
barreled
probably
the
and
22
around

| 396|396|2007-02-16 05:56:22|Clarence L Calkins|Re: Gatling Gun Programs on Discovery Channels|
I received orders from and mailed DVDs out to these 4 people.

Feb. 9, 2007 Fred Bush
Feb. 9, 2007 JONATHAN PRICE
Feb. 4, 2007 TOM EWING
Feb. 3, 2007 David Corbett

I believe there were a couple of others that wanted copies?

Clarence

On 3 Feb 2007 18:07:41 -0000 GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com writes:
________________________________________________________________________

| 397|396|2007-02-21 03:51:35|Dave|Re: Gatling Gun Programs on Discovery Channels|
I received my copy today. Nice job Clarence!

I will be watching it tonight.

Thank you.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Clarence L Calkins
__
Discovery's
Each
both
shooting
of
on
the
Total
Well
30-
in
be
huge
lr.

| 398|396|2007-02-21 05:21:15|K H|Re: Gatling Gun Programs on Discovery Channels|

I recently joined the group and would like to know if I can get a copy of the DVD as well...

If so, please email me with the contact info...

----- Original Message ----
From: Clarence L Calkins

I received orders from and mailed DVDs out to these 4 people.

Feb. 9, 2007 Fred Bush
Feb. 9, 2007 JONATHAN PRICE
Feb. 4, 2007 TOM EWING
Feb. 3, 2007 David Corbett

I believe there were a couple of others that wanted copies?

Clarence

On 3 Feb 2007 18:07:41 -0000 GatlingGun@yahoogro ups.com writes:
____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _

Check out the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.
| 399|396|2007-02-23 06:41:08|cl_calkins|Re: Gatling Gun Programs on Discovery Channels|
Hey, All,
Existing orders will be copied & readied for shipping on Saturday, and
go into the post on Monday. (Sorry for the delays, I have a real job
that takes much of my time. I got a minor promotion this week!)
K H, and anyone else that just joined, Yes, I have my original and can
make as many copies as needed. $3 to my Paypal at cl(underscore)
calkins@... (cl_calkins@...) or email me direct if you want
to send a money order.
Clarence

| 400|400|2007-02-24 04:40:18|Jon|Rapid Fire on Discovery Weapons channel|
Talked to the guys at Flashback TV Company in England today and they
told
me that the regular Discovery Channel will be showing the Weaponology
series that has the Gatling Guns on it. It is scheduled to start
April 30th. and that the show "Rapid Fire" that has the Gatling guns
will show in early May. I don't have the exact schedule but check
your TV listing on the regular Discovery Channel starting the end of
April for dates and times. If I see it, I will post the dates and
times. Jon
| 401|396|2007-02-27 05:07:26|cl_calkins|Re: Gatling Gun Programs on Discovery Channels|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "cl_calkins" David Boles, Dean Head, Philip Scott,
Your DVD's went out today, you should have them in a couple days.
__Clarence

and
job
can
Channels

| 402|402|2007-02-27 14:33:02|groups@gardnerguns.com|Interest in Gardner Gun Blueprints?|
Hello All,
I've designed a miniature Gardner Gun in 1/2 scale. It's come to the point where I just don't have time to build them. I am considering selling blueprintsin the near future and later selling castings and pre-made components that are more difficult to produce than a simple shop can handle. I also have reverse-engineered a second model Gardner that is currently full size. The model that is ready, including castings, is the Pratt & Whitney Improved model Gardner that can be seen on my website: www.gardnerguns.com. The second model is the English, side-ejecting Gardner as built by the Gardner Gun Company in England and used throughout Europe.

This email is just to judge interest. If you think you might be interested, please send me a quick note to sales@....

Thanks,
Joe

| 403|403|2007-04-02 18:06:46|hughsmiata|silver soldered bolts?|
Hi, has anyone built these parts by silver soldering rather than
cutting the lug fropm the solid? Any suggestions, warnings or tips?

Thanks,
hms50
| 404|403|2007-04-02 19:38:23|Dale|Re: silver soldered bolts?|

Hello hms50.............I take it that you are building the RGG gun from Paul Moore.............Yes I did silver solder the lugs to the bolts, and it worked well.............It has been about 11-12 years ago that I built the RGG gun........If I remember right the lug is .375" material.........I took a chunk of 3/8" key stock , and used a 3/8" end mill and cut the round contour to match the bolt dia.......Then I cut the lug to the right length plus a 1/16 " extra......then I drilled a clearance for a 2-56 screw, then placed the lug in the right position on the bolt ,spotted and drilled/tapped a hole for the 2-56 screw.........The screw holds the lug into place while you do the silver solder job...........Then you remove the screw or break it off (if it gets soldered).........Then I made a fixture to hold the bolt and swing it at the same radius as the bolt carrier would, and holding the bolt in the fixture,and 3-jaw, and on center on the other end , I turned the height of the lug down to the correct height................If you want , please email me off the thread, and I will take a picture of the fixture that I used.......Dale Detrich     djdtrh@...

| 405|403|2007-04-03 00:11:56|Dale|Re: silver soldered bolts?|

Hrllo hms50..........I think that i screwed up on which gun that you are building.............I now know that you are building the 1874 Colt , plans by Douglas Schneider   ...........I built both of the guns , the RGG and the 1874 Colt guns.........Still the information is correct for the 1874 Colt gun............Dale Detrich

| 406|403|2007-04-03 00:16:14|R Thompson|Re: silver soldered bolts?|

Dale please feel free to create a folder in the photos section if you want and post any and all gatling related pics, or links

| 407|403|2007-04-03 00:36:16|Dale|Re: silver soldered bolts?|

Sorry........I do not have but a few pictures of my guns.......Just a few finished shots, it was before I got a digital camera.......Dale Detrich....... please visit www.daledetrich.com to see the guns...........Dale Detrich

| 412|412|2007-04-30 18:11:49|hughsmiata|changing from .22 short to long rifle?|
I'm building the gatling gun from D&E plans. The fixtures are made
and the bolts are coming along. Has anyone changed to .22 long
rifle? What was involved and how did it work out? Any reason to not
chamber for .22 long rifle even if staying with shorts? This would
save buying another chamber reamer.

Thanks, and I did research previous posts on this topic, I just
wondered if anyone had opinions of the plauability of this change.

hms50
| 413|412|2007-04-30 20:08:41|Dale|Re: changing from .22 short to long rifle?|

Please contact Douglas Schneider , I think that he has the mods. to go to the long rifle........Dale Detrich

| 414|412|2007-04-30 20:28:42|Wes S|Re: changing from .22 short to long rifle?|
On 30 Apr 2007 at 16:02, hughsmiata wrote:

If you get some good answers on this please post it to the list. I'd
really rather shoot LR over more the expensive shorts.

Wes
| 415|415|2007-05-01 19:44:59|hughsmiata|.22 short to long rifle|
I emailed Douglas Schneider at D&E about the above question. His
responce was that it would take many changes to do this. He said his
plans are for a 1/3 scale model and it sounds like the whole gun would
have to be longer for this to work. So.....from someone who knows a
lot more than me,spend the extra for the shorts and enjoy!
hms50
| 416|416|2007-05-02 16:01:38|hughsmiata|cutting chamber in barrel|
Ant advice on this process? I'm planning to chamber for .22 long
rifle (I already have a reamer) even though it looks like the gat will
be built for .22 short. I have a floating reamer holder but wonder if
it would be better to hand chamber?

Thanks,
hms50
| 417|416|2007-05-02 20:43:36|Richard Thompson|Re: cutting chamber in barrel|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "hughsmiata" if
I would def cut the chambers by hand, very easy as they are a basic cyl

| 418|415|2007-05-06 04:12:44|Dennis|Re: .22 short to long rifle|
I inquired about this a while back. I have not been on here for some
time. Too many other irons in the fire!! My Grandpa that I got the
plans for has been making a lot of the small lathe parts. We will be
on to the mill soon. I thought someone told me three basic parts had
to be changed. Pan needs to be shortened, bolt carrier lengthened that
amount, and cams changed for more travel. Of course the magazine stuff
would have to be changed also.

Denny

| 422|422|2007-05-07 15:33:57|Richard Thompson|Re: (False)Buy NoSPAM NOT TOLERATED|
Because its not GATLING GUN RELATED , keep the post directly related
to the topic of guns or dont post. Your post dont have to be directly
related to the gatlin but do need to be gun related and not political
in nature. Folks come here that are directly interested in the
gatling gun and filling their mailboxes with stuff like this is not
acceptable. There are plenty of other forums for posting crap like
this on . Richard

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Morgan Spires new instead of hashing a old urban legend script around and doing
nothing?
of the hottest urban legends ever to hit the web.
from a friend of mine in California and it
companies
margin,
money
shut

| 423|415|2007-05-07 19:33:39|hughsmiata|Re: .22 short to long rifle|
-That sounds like it would do it, but without trying it, or at least
talking to somone who has, I'm unsure. I guess I'll proceed with
the .22 short and when it's finished consider building another. The
shorts will cost more but this isn't a cheap project to began with.
If building another, .38 special might be a nice caliber....

hms50

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" the
be
had
that
stuff
His
said his
knows a

| 424|415|2007-05-07 21:00:16|R Thompson|Re: .22 short to long rifle|

I think you would need to stretch the pan aprox .1, and create more stroke by redesigning the cams, there is enough room in the cam area. I have made a longer pan and a new set of cams but havent finished the bolts or made the top cover to be able to test it .

| 425|425|2007-05-09 21:45:49|hepburn4590|blue prints|
Do you know of any prints that can be had for a 6 barrel 1862(?) gun?
| 426|415|2007-05-12 15:25:25|Wes S|Re: .22 short to long rifle|
On 7 May 2007 at 14:54, R Thompson wrote:

Do you have a time frame when you think you will have put this
together and tested it?

Thanks,

Wes Szumera
| 427|425|2007-05-25 07:38:38|bergejay|Re: blue prints|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "hepburn4590" Try D&E Model Drawings at Das985Gat@.... They have engineering
drawings on CD.

berge
| 428|425|2007-05-25 14:22:16|john grantham|Re: blue prints|
Thank you. I'll contact them.

bergejay
CAN ANYONE HELP ME LPCATE BLUEPRINTS FOR THE 7.62 MINIGUN AS I WANT TO
MAKE A FUL SCALE NON FIRING MODEL
| 430|429|2007-06-09 05:34:59|Jim|Re: GAU MINI|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "kronus_56" Non Firing....Wink wink nod...sure...

Good luck with it.
| 431|429|2007-06-09 12:18:20|kronus_56|Re: GAU MINI|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" that i want it to fire at 4,000 rpm+ only blanks?lol
| 432|432|2007-06-09 22:05:27|Jon|Beware of High Precision, Bud Welsh Custom Gunsmithing/Gatling Gun |
Five years ago entered into a deal with Bud Welsh, 80 New Road,
East Amherst, NY who does business as "High Precision" or "Bud Welsh
Custom Gunsmithing" at that location. The deal was that I buy the
prints, castings, barrels etc. for two fullsize 45-70 Gatling Guns.
Bud would build two guns, one for me, and get the material to build
a second gun free for making me one. I spent $ 13,000.00 for the
parts, castings, prints and even bought 22 Stainless Steel barrels,
ten for each gun plus one spare.
Bud is supposed to be a retired Tool and Die Maker and a
Benchrest Gunsmith. I had him previous had him build a rail gun
(Unlimited Class) for me. There were some serious issues with it
and I had to pay another machinist to make that right. Bud assured
me time after time that there would not be any problems with the
Gatling Gun build, after all he said "There is no rocket science
involved". Bud did nothing on the gun for over a year. I was
patient with him and the excuses he gave.
Finally he started on the gun 3 1/2 years ago. In Jan. 2007, I
asked if the gun would be ready by the 9th. of May 2007. No
problem, few things to do and will have it done by then. Checked
with him regularly and recieved the same answer. Bud informed me a
few days before I picked up the gun to use Large Pistol primers
instead of Large rifle primers in the 45-70 ammo for the pistol
primers are easier to ignite. This alarmed me for I have been
reloading for close to fifty years and no way in hell do you use a
pistol primer in rifle case. I picked up the gun on the 9th. and
proceeded to Ohio to shoot in the Super Shoot (biggest benchrest
match of year). I took the gun to friends house in Ohio and left it
there for safe keeping while at the Super Shoot. After the Super
Shoot, two weeks later, picked up the gun and brought it home to
Northern NY.
A couple of days after I got home, took it out for test
firing. Only 4 barrels out of ten would, tried it 3 times, again
only the same 4 barrels would fire. Examined the rounds that were
numbered by the barrel the were in. Six showed no hits even near
the primer. The four that fired had firing pin hits on the outside
edge of the primer and the inside edge of the primer pocket. A
friend suggested a local machine shop to find out what was wrong
with the gun. Scheduled a appointment and brought the gun and
prints to the job shop. The owner had the machinst who ran the
inspection CMI work with me to inspect the gun. The gun was totally
disassembled. We were shocked by the poor workmanship of Bud
Welsh. The frame was a nightmare. Both side rails were supposed to
be on the same plane, but they were distorted grossly. They were
off by several inches from each other caused by poor welding and
layout. Rather than correct this he forced them to fit the reciever
flanges and even shimmed them in the wrong place. The front Bow
bearing was off center by 0.180" causing the mainshaft to cause the
internal parts to rub on the side of reciever and cause excessive
runout. The frame will have to be bandsaw apart and straightened,
front bow lengthed, realigned and rewelded properly.
The barrels were a farce. He turned the shoulders off by 10
degrees, hence the threads were off also and the headspace was
0.005" too deep. The barrel plate was not to drawing, barrel plate
holes off by as much as 2 degrees in spacing. The barrel plate
holes for the barrels centerline on holes was 3/8" too large. All
10 bolts had the 1 1/4 radius not located properly, the guy who ran
the EDM was not consistant with with his set-ups causing the bolts
to be off dimensions. Bolt carrier w/guide and cartridge were
totally off spec. Bud was not smart enough to make them to the
improperly made barrel plate. He tried to increase the slopply fits
so that the bolts would fit the barrels, he got 4 out of 10 to shoot
that way. The cam box was nightmare, the cam groove was milled
wrong in the first place and then the die grinder came into play and
really srewed it up royally. The cambox, bolt and cartridge
carriers will have to be scrapped and remade. They are so poorly
made and off specs they useless.
The bitter part is that another Gatling Gun builder lent Bud
his entire reciever off his original 1874 Gatling Gun so he would
have something to go by and copy for my gun. I contacted John
Anderson also and he gave all so helped with information and hints
to do things properly. This was to no avail, the problem is that
Bud Welsh can not follow a print nor copy working parts that were
made available to him during the build. I talked to him and was
quite upset with what I ended up with. He hung up on me when I
asked him to make resitiution on the piece of crap he made me. As
he mentioned in an a e-mail the day before I called him Quote" I am
sorry things have not worked out as well as we both hoped. I did
nothing to deliberately cause problems. I made an effot to do my
best on this very complex job." Unquote. There was no offer for him
to reimburse me any of the $ 13,000.00 I spent. He still has all
the castings and stuff for the second gun and has not even started
on it. An honest person knowing his limitions would at least say
take these unmachined parts and I'll pay the job shop to make them
right. I knew Bud Welsh was a cheap person and now I know he is an
dishonest person and a very poor example of the real Tool and Die
Makers out there. As far as being a Benchrest Gunsmith, I would
question that. The barrels were entirely ptofiled by the
manufacturer. All he had to do was thread , chamber and crown
them. To do what he did to them shows his total lack of ability or
stupidity, your choice.. His ambition was seriously lacking for he
was continuely whining about the amount of metal he had to remove
off the castings. I belive he expected the casting to be within a
couple of thousands of final dimensions. This is being just plain
lazy and being a whine-ass. These are two more of Bud's
attributes.
I would advise anyone who might have any dealings with Bud
Welsh to be careful. Do it under a written contract and have a
lawyer draw it up to make it ironclad. Smartest thing would be to
avoid him at all costs for you are going to get
screwed
anyways.
| 433|432|2007-06-10 01:28:55|Dale|Re: Beware of High Precision, Bud Welsh Custom Gunsmithing/Gatling |

Jon........I have built two 1/3 scale 22 cal. gatling guns (RGG and the COLT 1874) , and even with the scale guns you have to be careful and work with "all" the precision that you can muster.......Sorry to hear of your problems.......Dale Detrich

| 434|432|2007-06-10 01:37:51|Bill|Re: Beware of High Precision, Bud Welsh Custom Gunsmithing/Gatling |
Hello Jon, sorry to hear about the trouble you had with this person.
Where can I buy prints for a full size 45-70?

Thanks.
| 435|435|2007-06-13 23:12:09|George|New here, and building the D&E gun|
Just signed up here needing all the help I can find in building the
D&E gun. I see the group isn't too active but the photos and
reading have already helped me get a better picture of the project.

I have a home shop in the garage with a Jet 10x24 lathe and a
bridgeport 2J mill. Both have DRO's. I just upgraded to the
bridgeport from a grizzly mill/drill and was looking for a project
and along came the gatling gun.

I ordered 10 stainless ruger 10/22 takeoff barrels today, the gears
yesterday, have been doing good locating brass and so far made the
drive shaft and its brass guide tube. I haven't used my machines
much in the last few years so figured I would make some of the easier
(cheaper) parts first to get back in the swing of things. I have the
material for the housing which will begin soon.

Hopefully people still frequent the group here so I can get questions
answered that may arise.

George
Rochester, NY
| 436|435|2007-06-14 06:12:14|david bell|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|
Hi George

        Check out the GatChat as well, also the American Machinist/Practical Machinist Forum, Section on gunsmithing.

        Good Luck, and keep on asking at the forums when you have problems.

George
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Bill" only differance between the 30 cal. and the 45-70 is that the 45-70
bolt is 0.200" shorter. Wilbut Williams in Kansas who sells castings
has a sets of full-size prints. I bought my castings and prints from
him allso. Jon
| 438|435|2007-06-14 13:58:42|R Thompson|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

Hi George,

Glad to see more folks coming on board. There are at least 6 or 7 guys here I speak with on a fairly regular basis that are building from the D&E plans, unfortunatley most are not actively posting pics or advice. If their like me they are to busy making chips. Looks like you def are tooled up for the build. A 6-8 inch rotary table will help with a few of the parts also.

I started with the revolving assembly and rails/main frame first so I would have something to look at as motivation while I worked on the tedious parts lie the bolts. The receiver tube is a little bit of a pain. Hopefully Joe at gardner guns will get a little free time and work us up a nice receiver casting to avoid the brazing. Ihave been slowley drawing the gun in solidworks. Looking at the prints I believe they were generated in either solid works or inventor. Sure would be nice if Doug would share the igs/3d file with us.

Anyway welcome aboard and feel free to ask questions or share any info on the project. Richard

| 439|435|2007-06-14 14:18:49|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

Hi Richard,

Thanks so much for the email. I have a rotary table, dividing head and a few other common goodies. All I need is the skill to use them! LOL

I have a question/issue for you that perhaps one of the other builders ran into.   The mail housing..... 2" ID, 2-3/8 OD..... Doug at D&E suggests pipe as a possiblility but I looked into that and found 2" brass pipe nipples come in a max of 6" long, threaded each end. The nipple is 5 thou undersize outside and would need additional removal to cleanup plus the threads are too deep to get the lenght required. I gave up on the nipple idea.

I have a solid bar that is the present plan of attack BUT I just hate to turn 90% of that bar into chips. Has anyone found material suitable for the housing other than a solid bar?   The other problem with pipe is that it is red brass and does not color match 360 brass very well.

Just about any other of the parts (excepting the barrels possibly) are "disposable" and if I screwed something up and had to remake it, I would not shed tears. Screw up a 3" solid bar and have to start over is a scary thought !!! That is why I am holding off on the housing for a bit and making a few other parts.

Is there such a thing as heavy wall brass tubing?   I am thinking similar to cored aluminum bars but have never seem the equivelent in brass.

George

| 440|432|2007-06-14 14:39:32|Richard Thompson|gatling prints|
Hey Guys, dont forget there are a downloadable set of prints for the 30
cal gun here in the files section, same ones the fellow is selling on
ebay except these are free. richard

| 441|435|2007-06-14 17:09:56|R Thompson|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

I found a piece of 2" brass water pipe about 6 foot long at a place that does plumbing for big highrise buildings. It is aprox .005 to small but worked well on both my builds.I set mine up in the 4 jaw with a dial indicator and didnt take any material off the outside. some of the metal by the inch places on the net have the 2" pipe. A simple rec casting would be nice, the pipe works well but doesnt have all the proper fillets etc that a casting would. I havent seen any mechanical tubing in brass, bronze is avail for bushing stock from enco fairly cheap.

For the main rotor I used bronze barstock , lots of fun to be had drilling those 11 holes aprox 4" deep

| 442|435|2007-06-14 17:24:51|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

That brass pipe was a heck of a find !   That is what I have been looking for. I found one place on the net that has 2" pipe for $72 for a foot long piece plus add shipping. I've also given consideration to aluminum and then brass plating it. Plating would also be a consideration for that huge piece for the yoke.

That main rotor / bolt carrier is often mentioned along with the problems drilling the holes. Why not bore the holes in the mill after rough drilling? I have not seen that possibility mentioned.

| 443|435|2007-06-14 17:45:37|R Thompson|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

the main problem with boring is rigidity of the tool, since the holes are nearly 4" deep and only 7/16 diameter the boring bar would be terribly flexible and the hole would be tapered. What I do on mine is drill a 3/8 hole thru , mainly as a relief , then I bore the first 1.5" to the finished bore diameter to insure its a good straight start for the reamer and then carefuly ream each hole . I was drilling the relief holes a little closer to finished size but found that in the 4" length of the hole the bit would wander off center as much as .050 . If I just reamed the holes as drilled the reamer would follw the pilot hole and pretty much ruin the carrier. boring the first 1.5" to finish diameter seems to be enough to guide the reamer on a straight path. Out of 7 carriers done by this method the worst hole has been less than .003 off center. not saying this is the best method but one that works for me. Brass may also be easier to work with as far as deep hole drilling goes, I used the bronze since a 13" bar was only about $35 at enco and at the time the brass was a little higher (read = richard is cheap).

| 444|435|2007-06-14 18:08:05|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

I have a couple solid carbide insertable boring bars, those are super stiff. This brings to mind the idea of a carbide reamer, the added stiffness may decrease the tendency to follow the pilot hole.   I relate to being cheap, its not so much cheap but the possibilty of remaking parts messed up out of brass, those large diameter bars require a second mortgage to purchase. I lucked out and got a 3" solid bar 9 inches lone of 360 brass for $25, that will probably never happen again, similar bars I see selling for $200 plus!    If it sounds like I am afraid to machine the housing from that bar that is absolutely right! LOL

I have some bearing bronze on hand for the bolt carrier and pan so I have enough for remakes there if necessary without running out of material. I am attempting to think 10 times, measure 3 and hopefully only cut once. LOL

| 445|435|2007-06-14 21:13:58|Douglas Leite|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|
George,
I've been following this thread and am wondering what the exact
dimensions that you need are, I once needed some brass tubing and found
several suppliers.
I should have it in my favorites. Post the OD and ID needed and I will
see if I can find you some, 2"" pipe is supposed to be 2.375 od and
2.061 id.
Is this near?
Doug
| 446|435|2007-06-14 22:13:46|R Thompson|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

I just measured the pieceof stock I cut mine from and it measures 2.369" OD and 2.050 ID

| 447|435|2007-06-14 22:16:34|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

That is the dimensions.   2" brass pipe isn't common anymore, nearly 100 years ago it was common in large buildings for water lines.

Luckily, I went to the junk yard today and my buddy found me another 3" dia 12 inch long red brass round. I got in real good with the manager at the junk yard and he takes care of me, unfortunately they don't get much of this sort of thing in, mostly just old faucets, tub drains etc.   He gives it to me for $1 a pound which is actually less than they pay!

So, now I have enough 3" solid rounds to dive in without being scared silly of ruining one.   (I have 3 tries if things go far south)

| 448|435|2007-06-15 01:07:03|Jim|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|
I obtained all of the metal I needed to make mine for under $20 from
local recycling centers. If you go every few days you can see what they
got in and get it before it is gone. I have one where I live that will
call me when they get in something that I want.

So far I still can't make it due to a lack of a dividing head. i have a
couple of big lathes and a fill size mill and rotaty table but am a
little lacking of the skill to make it with what I have on hand.

Good luck,

JIM
| 449|435|2007-06-15 01:39:37|Dale|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

Jim.......I made two scale gatling guns with a Smithy 3 in 1 machine and a rotary table, it sounds as if you are all set to go........All of the ten barrel work can be done on the rotary table, and the cam rise is just a 45 degree rise and fall.......Dale Detrich

| 450|435|2007-06-15 15:59:25|R Thompson|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

All this recent activity on the gatlin builds is getting me excited. I will drag out my 6 bbl camel gun this weekend and get it finished up.

| 451|435|2007-06-15 16:47:14|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

Just realized this morning that it is you that had the 48 pictures posted of the building process. Guys like you make me look very bad. I am not positive how to spell machinist correctly. I am just heating and a/c guy with a like for guns and the need for a project to try my recently aquired bridgeport out on.

Your pictures did bring a few questions to mind...

I notice you had the housing OD threaded prior to soldering the rails on, the plans say thread after. I assume that is eliminate distortion from the heat.

No problem threading after all the soldering?

I seen you made 1 piece bolts.   I was going to take the easy way out and use drill rod and silver solder the lugs on.   Has the soldering method worked out OK for others?

I was wondering about the jig for rail alignment, if it was really necessary if the housing, shafts, barrels etc were done, why not use the actual parts for alignment?

Being a half arsed machininst, I noticed the drawings do not make any allowance for fits.   The rotaing shaft is .250, the bore same .250, same for the mainshaft, the bolts etc.   A shaft and bore the same size produces a semi press fit, no? The debate I had was to underisize the shaft or oversize the bore? One area I am pondering is the bolts and bolt carrier.

I bought my drill rod yesterday, and scored a 3"x12 round of red brass, the gears are on the way and I have 10 ruger stainless 10/22 barrel takeoff's on the way also.   I think I have the sickness, or obsession.   So far I only have been collecting material and made the driveshaft and its tube. In the next couple days I am going to convert that 3" bar into a mountain of chips and hopefully something that resembles a housing.

George

| 452|435|2007-06-18 01:36:01|David Boles|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|
George,
I assume you have started your Gatt housing by now.
If not , I still have a piece of 2" , Schedule 40 . Brass pipe
(230 grade ) remaining from my project that I will sell.
Dimensions are 2.38" O.D x 0.150" wall thickness x 4.875" length.
I would want $38 for the piece plus freight ( 1/2 what I paid in
2005 ).
No problem to solder the bolt lug, the loading is very low on
this piece.
Good luck on your project !
Dave

| 453|435|2007-06-18 02:24:25|George Mouer|Re: New here, and building the D&E gun|

That is exactly what it is selling for today online, only a 1 foot minimum.   I got a couple 3" x 12 solid bars for $25 each and my housing is all turned up from the lathe a couple days ago.   I had chips up to my knees it seemed !   Waiting for the silver solder to arrive from brownells now to finish up the housing.

| 454|292|2007-07-01 00:15:59|George|Re: drilling bolt carrier|
Care to elaborate on the method for turning threads on the housing
without hitting the rails? My housing is done and silver soldered
up, threading is next. The only thing I can think of is running the
lathe manually with a hand crank and a real thin threading bit,
possibly a thin parting tool ground to shape.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
snipped
threads,
some
in
am
| 455|292|2007-07-01 01:50:46|Richard Thompson|Re: threading rec|
Hi George,
To thread the rec I set it up in the 4jaw chuck with a dial indicator
then I used a parting tool ground to the proper profile and rotated
the chuck by hand if memory serves.
For the inside of the rear cap I used a 10-32 plug tap held in the
tool holder like you would a boring bar and again rotated the chuck
by hand, of course in this setup only a small portion of the tap did
the cutting, worked great. The same set up could be used for the
external thread on the receiver.

| 457|457|2007-07-01 03:03:40|George Mouer|Fw: Threading rec|

| 458|457|2007-07-01 06:37:49|Dan Pettersson|Re: Fw: Threading rec|
is it anyone who can help me to get an copy of drawings for an gatling in cal 22lr ??????

yours sincerely
Dan Pettersson
sweden

| 459|457|2007-07-01 11:02:40|sarmourer|Re: Fw: Threading rec|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Dan Pettersson gatling in cal 22lr ??????
drawings on CD.
Philip

| 460|457|2007-07-01 23:09:42|Richard Thompson|Re: Fw: Threading rec|

yep , very nice plans , money well spent

| 461|461|2007-07-02 22:45:54|generalgorloff2|Soldering on the breech casing.|
Just a quick question about soldering the rails to the breech tube.

I notice that the main talk is of using brass pipe for the breech
tube. I have a piece of brass pipe to use on my tube. It came from
Ansonia Copper & Brass It is listed as red brass or C2300 alloy - 85%
copper, and 15%zinc. That gives it a tensile strength of 44,000 psi,
and a yield strength of 18,000
The chart shows it excellent for soldering. about the only
rectangular bar available around here is 360 alloy. The question is
are you guys soldering red brass to yellow brass, or using something
like 660 bronze for the rails? If you are using red and yellow brass
is the yellow reflecting the red color of the breech casing or is
there not that much difference after the assembly.
Thanks
Dave
| 462|461|2007-07-02 23:13:48|George|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|
Very good question. I had the very same concerns. I ended up using
a solid bar of Red Brass for the main housing. The bar was colored
nearly what you would call brown from age. When turned in the lathe
it becomes very light yellow, about the same color as yellow brass.
(I put the 2 next to each other) The interesting thing is the red
brass actually changes colors between passes on the lathe! It
oxidizes very quickly bringing out the redish tones. My housing has
been turned for over a week and the rails are made from yellow brass
(360 alloy), the colors are extremely close. I would not hesitate to
mix and match between yellow and red brass for the various parts, the
color is very close and both oxidize and will need occasional
polishing to keep their luster or a coat of clear laquer.
They silver solder together very nicely. (don't use regular
solder) Its the low temp (about 440F) silver solder you want. I
bought mine from Brownells, a mail order gunsmith supply.

George

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "generalgorloff2"
breech
85%
psi,
something
brass

| 463|461|2007-07-03 00:24:26|Dale|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|

Dave............I did the mix and match on both of my guns, and the result is good.....Dale Detrich

| 464|461|2007-07-03 00:27:12|Dale|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|

Dave....You can see both of the guns in the photo section........dplugs39

| 465|461|2007-07-03 04:16:03|david bell|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|
Thanks Dale, Thanks George

           I appreciate the input on the materials mix. The Photographs look great. I think I will give it a try. I made a mix of red brass by melting down some manganese bronze C865 alloy... 58% copper, 39 1/2% zinc, 1% each iron & aluminum, and then added pure copper wire to get an 85% copper content by weight. I mixed up 50lbs of this and poured a full size Gatling yoke, net wt. of 39 lbs after sprues and runners were cut off.

          The result was pretty much a yellow brass looking yoke. I don't know if the small dab of aluminum had a role in the color being lighter, but if I am going to get a yellow brass looking alloy, I would just as soon save myself the trouble, and just use 360 brass bar for the rails.

           All the copper alloys have gotten pretty expensive now, and I don't want to make any costly mistakes. The tube I am using is 6" red brass pipe, for a full scale breech casing. Casting alloy being $8.00 per lb. now, I am going to try making a couple of full size casings like the RGG, D&E method. Your input is appreciated



                                                                                      Thanks Again

                                                                                                 Dave

Dale
Drinking coffee and studying the plans tonight. The D&E plans show a
frame rail jig and it appears to be somewhat a pain to make, a 1/2 hole
5 inches deep that must be aligned perfect. A long piece of 3/4 drill
rod is also needed (expensive)

Did you fellows that made the gun all make the jig? I am wondering
why the actual housing, shafts, and barrels with rings could not be
used for alignment instead of all that work to make the fixture?

Comments?
| 467|461|2007-07-04 03:27:57|George|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|
Dave, you certainly don't fool around when you take on projects..Full
Scale!

I have a couple thoughts,
Are you going with 45-70 caliber? If so, how does 6" pipe stack up
for wall thickness compared to scaled up plans? Not much
pressure/power with the original .22 shorts but full scale is another
matter.

I'm jealous... you casting a full sized yoke. The .22 short version
yoke is something I am still scratching my head on what to do. Its a
big hunk of brass (expensive) and yet would be a shame to use
aluminum or something else. The brass yoke is a big part of the
cosmetic appeal of the gun. Chances of me finding a hunk of brass
that big at the junk yard is pretty slim.

Love to hear more details of your project ! Full scale !!! wow.

George

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, david bell Photographs look great. I think I will give it a try. I made a mix
of red brass by melting down some manganese bronze C865 alloy...
58% copper, 39 1/2% zinc, 1% each iron & aluminum, and then added
pure copper wire to get an 85% copper content by weight. I mixed up
50lbs of this and poured a full size Gatling yoke, net wt. of 39 lbs
after sprues and runners were cut off.
yoke. I don't know if the small dab of aluminum had a role in the
color being lighter, but if I am going to get a yellow brass looking
alloy, I would just as soon save myself the trouble, and just use
360 brass bar for the rails.
now, and I don't want to make any costly mistakes. The tube I am
using is 6" red brass pipe, for a full scale breech casing. Casting
alloy being $8.00 per lb. now, I am going to try making a couple of
full size casings like the RGG, D&E method. Your input is appreciated
Thanks Again
Dave
section........dplugs39
tube.
85%
psi,
something
brass
someone who knows.

| 468|461|2007-07-04 09:13:48|david bell|Re: Soldering on the breech casing.|
Hi George

        The plans I use are the Colt Model 1900 Army. Richard has them on the site, and you can look at them in detail. To make the gun in .45-70 Govt. some of the parts must be shortened, as the plans are for the .30-40 Krag cartridge.

         The 6" red brass pipe is almost perfect, as it is about as small a piece of material you can use, and still have enough meat to make the casing to the drawings. I lucked out in finding my 6"brass pipe at the scrap yard.I have been in and out of that scrap yard for 25 years, and that was the first time I ever saw 6" brass pipe. I was a bit peeved about my cost. It was unused, but I can't imagine what it would cost new now if one ordered it in.

          When I saw the pipe I had to get it, and give it a try. To cast a bronze breech casing is about a 45 lb bronze pour,( net casting, about 34lbs) and with the rising cost of alloy, and a fire ban in affect here now, a brass pipe try is worth the time, as casting looks months away now.

          Numrich Arms got in a bunch of really nice barrel blanks last month,. They were advertised as .45 muzzleloaing blanks 28" long 1 1/4" dia. Stainless Steel 1 in 24 twist, They had a bore diameter of .450 and a groove diameter of .459 just about perfect for .45-70 They were sold out almost before thier advertisement posted in Shotgun News. I got the last eleven barrels they had in stock. They were selling them at $24.95 each. They don't expect to get any more, as they were an over run at Pederoseli, but they said a person could call in and check once a month to see.

           As far as casting the yokes.................I cast 4 of the darn things( Bloody costly), and had a problem of one kind or the other with each of them. I was able to use real Gatling yokes to make my cavities, and pour aluminum halves. I then mounted on match plates, and used to pour the bronze ones.

            People say casting is easy..........well, I guess I am just too darn dumb for it to be easy for me. Sometimes they come out great, and sometimes they go back in the pot. Sometimes the keepers need minor repairs. Oh Well.

             I am a caveman as far as computers go, so send me your email address, and I will send you some process photo's through AOL..

                                                                               Best

                                                                                       Dave

George
I have uploaded pictures of a 12 gauge Gatling gun, the only information I have about it is this note from the builder.

Here's a close up of the mechanisms. I used the rearend out of a '28 Wippet car for the gears for the rotation mechanism. .750 seamless tubing for the barrels, and hand reamed them with a Clymer chamber reamer for 2-3/4" 12 gauge. I have a blacksmiths shop of sorts and wheelwrite tools too to make wagon wheels. The rest of the gun was made from scrap pieces of pipe and pump parts. Each bolt was hand made for it's particular barrel, since I didn't have a milling machine to mass produce anything. I had a metal lathe, welder, and a Dremel tool.

This guy is my hero.

--

Noel Alford
The Document Imaging Group
401 East Capitol Street
Suite 400
Jackson, MS 39201
601.948.1101
noel.alford@...| 470|469|2007-07-06 15:26:43|superfluities1|Re: 12 Gauge|
That's a fine piece. Would that be a DD since it's a 12ga like a
Stryker shotgun?--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Noel Alford"
a '28 Wippet
for the
3/4" 12
to make
pipe and
since I
metal lathe,

| 471|469|2007-07-06 15:39:07|Richard Thompson|Re: 12 Gauge|
I dont believe it would be, but..... if you read the guidlines then
tech any and every shotgun would tech be a DD

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "superfluities1" tubing
too

| 472|469|2007-07-06 15:39:45|Noel Alford|Re: 12 Gauge|
I suspect so, I didn't ask him but if I was going to build one, I would register it as a DD before I built it. He sold it to fund a full auto purchase. If I had to guess, I would guess it was registered as a DD. I can't imagine anyone risking the fines and jail time over 200 bucks. If you can legally own a firearm, you can own a DD (as long as your state does not prohibit them) so, it is just a matter of filling out the form and paying the 200 and marking your info on the gun. The bore size is the issue, .410 would not have to be registered since the bore is under .50, the regs are pretty clear. You could ask for a ruling but that would entail sending the gun to them, if they rule it is a DD, they will keep it!! They "might" rule on blueprints but they have been known to reverse those rulings, a lot of what-ifs over 200 bucks.

| 473|469|2007-07-06 15:51:35|Noel Alford|Re: 12 Gauge|
The key is "sporting purpose" which allows the AG to rule on any gun as they wish. It is ambiguous and vague but clearly leaves it up to the AG. I can dig up the exact language is needed.

--

Noel Alford
The Document Imaging Group
401 East Capitol Street
Suite 400
Jackson, MS 39201
601.948.1101
noel.alford@...
| 474|469|2007-07-06 16:19:57|Richard Thompson|Re: 12 Gauge|
No thats OK I have the reg book on the desk in front of me and am
familiar . I do agree that it would be best to register anything
like a 12ga gatling as a DD , $200 for the tax stamp is cheap enough.

I was simply saying based on my discussions about the subject with a
tech at ftb that in my opinion a one off wouldnt be a dd. the
detirmination on whether or not its a DD can only be made by ATF tech
branch and anything else is purely speculation.

In my discussions with my examiner at FTB about the possibilty of
building a 12ga gatling its been relayed to me that the non sporting
use template is generaly only applied to items that enter commerce
and are intended for sale/resale and not one off items built by the
home hobbiest.And he has agreed that the 12g gatling can be argued
from both sides . read to the letter of the law any shotgun "could"
be a DD , I think the biggest grey area in the entire discussion
should be exactly what the qaulifyer is for "sporting purpose"

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Noel Alford" gun as they
I can
then
40yahoogroups.com for 2-
of
barrel,
a

| 475|475|2007-07-10 23:46:11|O'neal|Legal?|
I have been hanging out in the group for a while and hI have been
wondering how gatling guns would be classified. Would they be seen as
machine guns. Do they have to to registered? Can the crank be replaced
with a motor and will it still be legal?
| 476|475|2007-07-11 00:01:15|Richard Thompson|Re: Legal?|
They are legal title 1 firearms as long as they remain crank fired with
period feed devices. Replacing the crank with an electric motor would
make it a machinegun.

| 477|477|2007-07-12 20:34:19|Richard Thompson|gatling 22 clip on youtube|
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4i9_kkg30o&NR=1
| 478|477|2007-07-12 22:50:10|George|Re: gatling 22 clip on youtube|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
middle of the housing, with some sort of ear on the other side.
Any idea where that design came from? It does not look at all like
the 2 popular 22 guns that plans are readily available for.
| 479|477|2007-07-12 22:58:27|Dale|Re: gatling 22 clip on youtube|

Hello all......The gun shown is a ready for sale gun ......I will try to find where it is made and post the address.........Dale Detrich

| 480|477|2007-07-13 00:03:59|Richard Thompson|Re: gatling 22 clip on youtube|
I had as link in the links section to their site but the gatling info
disappeared and was replace by a bunch of advertising/spam. I cant
remember the name right off but I have a brochure I got from them
somewhere I will scan and post when I find it. The gun was only $2350
or so .

| 481|477|2007-07-13 00:54:48|Dale|Re: gatling 22 clip on youtube|

http://www.machineguns.co.nz/

Please try the above link to see the gun that was on youtube....Thanks.....Dale Detrich

| 482|477|2007-07-13 01:31:37|Richard Thompson|Re: gatling 22 clip on youtube|
Thanks Dale, thats it, the one I was confusing it with used the plastic
mag from the american 180 and was made here in the states

| 483|483|2007-07-15 01:49:47|justlesh|My Introduction|
Just joined and thought I would introduce myself. My name is Les Holt,
I live in west central Indiana. Married with 4 kids, they are pretty
much gone which gives me free time to machine. Been machining for about
25 yrs. and have always had a facination for functioning scale models
and thought I would give the gatling a try. I'm sure I will have
questions along the way and look foward to each visit. Thanks and till
next time, enjoy.
justlesh
| 484|484|2007-08-03 15:50:50|Richard Thompson|a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
Thought you guys might enjoy a few pics of a belt fed 22 1919a4
tippmann miniatures I built this week from one of the kits that
Lakeside machine released recently .

Here are a few pics

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/1922done.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/1922done2.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/B/assemb9.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/B/assemb2.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/B/assemb13.jpg

http://www.thompsonmachine.net/img/1922/B/assemb20.jpg
| 485|484|2007-08-05 05:56:29|Scott A. Stephens|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
         Beautiful work. You fire it yet????

         As for the belt...It use links or does it use a web based belt???

At 06:50 AM 8/3/2007, you wrote:

| 486|484|2007-08-05 09:17:09|Richard Thompson|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|

yes I have fired it quite a bit, uses links and belts, the links are a little loose, belt works perfectly

| 487|484|2007-08-05 10:55:59|Scott A. Stephens|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
         You use a form or something to sew the belt so the spacing is with in tolerance???? Or are these bought items????

At 12:17 AM 8/5/2007, you wrote:

| 488|484|2007-08-05 14:12:28|Dale|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|

Scott....Is there any machihing to be done on the kit, or is it just assembly ???         Dale Detrich

| 489|484|2007-08-05 16:40:47|Richard Thompson|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
Hi Scott the belts are available commercialy from lakeside guns .
Richard
| 490|484|2007-08-05 17:25:23|George|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
and it only mentions sales through distributors. There is a
distributor link but it is a broken link.
Curious about pricing and info on the kit.
| 491|484|2007-08-05 17:32:57|Richard Thompson|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
Hi Dale , there is some machining to be done, the trunion and a few
other parts come as raw castings and have to be machined, the right
hand side plate comes as just a laser cut blank and has to be surface
ground to final thickness and then all the machine work compleed on
both sides. The bbl has to be chambered. There is some welding to be
finished on the tripod . Beyond that its mostly just hand fitting,
deburring , parkerizing and finaly assembly.

here is a link to a bunch of pics of my build
http://www.thompsonmachine.net/1922.htm , so far there have been
about 20 or so of the 1919 kits released by Lakeside in the past
month, I am unsure if anyone else has completed one yet, but it
shouldnt be long. I am due to receive my 1917 water cooled set in the
next few days and will take a bunch of pics as I go. Hopefully they
will decide to release the m2 kit at some point .

If anyone has any questions on the build feel free to ask, its a
really great project and makes for a very nice functional scale
model. Two thumbs up to Eric at lakeside for making these a reality.
Now if we could get Joe over at Gardner Guns
http://www.gardnerguns.com/ to release a kit and prints of his
gun ......
Thanks Richard

| 492|484|2007-08-05 17:40:55|Richard Thompson|Re: a few pics of my tippmann/lakeside 22 build|
Hi George the complete kit from Lakeside including tripod, T+E, belt
and the gun kit for the 1919 is aprox $1350 , the 1917a1 kit is around
$1650 .

I dont believe any of the kits are listed for sale on their site but
there is a fair bit of info in the forum in the home builders section,
you may have to join the forum to access , not sure. Here is a link to
the forum http://208.56.123.138/Invision/index.php?

Richard

| 493|493|2007-08-07 01:18:57|Brian|need help|
I am getting the plans to make the 22 gatling gun and wondered if you
could mod the plans to make a slightly larger caliber and or is it
even worth messing with???
| 494|493|2007-08-07 01:39:26|Dale|Re: need help|

Brian......Are you getting the RGG or the 1874 colt plans.????    I have built both guns, and I believe that "it" would be a big job to go to a bigger caliper.....The 22 caliper is a rim fired round, and almost anything bigger would be a center fired round......It would take a "bunch" of modifications to go from one to the other......Dale Detrich

| 495|493|2007-08-07 02:29:34|George|Re: need help|
I am in the process of building one from the D&E plans and would agree
with Dale on it being a major modification.

I believe there are plans for larger caliber ones on the net for
free. (here perhaps???)

George

| 496|493|2007-08-07 03:09:05|Richard Thompson|Re: need help|

you can download the 1874 plans here in the files section. I do agree the D+E is a fairly modified design but it wouldnt be hard to scale it up for other cartridges like 357 etc  , the way the bolt is designed the firing pin/striker mechanism is in the center of the bolt and its the forward end of the bolt thats offset for rimfire not the firing mechanism. I have drawn it in solidworks and scaled it up for 38 special with no major changes other than a cylindrical bolt instead of one with an offset forward portion. I would agree that if you had a rifle sized cartridge in mind the 1874 plans might be a better start

| 497|493|2007-08-07 03:47:18|Brian|Re: need help|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
scale it up for other cartridges like 357 etc , the way the bolt is
designed the firing pin/striker mechanism is in the center of the bolt
and its the forward end of the bolt thats offset for rimfire not the
firing mechanism. I have drawn it in solidworks and scaled it up for
38 special with no major changes other than a cylindrical bolt instead
of one with an offset forward portion. I would agree that if you had
a rifle sized cartridge in mind the 1874 plans might be a better start
agree
to go
almost
Detrich
38 special would be cool to convert too, how hard would that be and
does any one have good conversion plans
| 498|493|2007-08-07 14:47:06|Dale|Re: need help|

Richard.......When you scale the D&E plans up to a larger caliper, what happens to the barrel centers and the diameter of the barrel layout ??  If I remember right the plans call for the major barrel size is to be .437" and then is tapered down from that size to ??? diameter.....If you started out with a .357 caliper round, that would leave the small end of the tapered barrel with fairly thin walls....That would make me want to have thicker barrels, which in turn would cause you to have a bigger breach plate, and a bigger overall diameter of the receiver......The D&E design is a good design and is good looking when finished .....Still it is up to the builder to do what he wants to do....Dale Detrich

| 499|493|2007-08-07 16:23:24|Richard Thompson|Re: need help|

Hi Dale , when I refered to scaling the plans up I meant I scaled the entire gun up, not just the bore . Each and every part has been scaled up by a factor of 2 so the bbl diam has been increased to .875 , bolts are twice as large in diam and length, rec tube is 4.5" diameter, cams a larger diam with longer stroke and so on, in all the gun in 38 spcl will be aprox 27" long. It def wouldnt be possible to just increase the bore diameter, everything has to be scaled up in turn. I should clarify by scaling up to .357 or any other cartridge larger than 22 lr you need to increase the size of all the parts by the same factor so all the parts will work properly together.

If you have the patience to sit down and redraw each and every piece , the D+E plans are a very good jumping off point since every dimension is called out unlike the 1874 colt drawings which are more of just an overview. I have all the drawings/3d models done in solidworks and have started the pattern to ram up some molds to cast the rec and have rounded up bbl blanks and a few bits of barstock but havent made it much further. So many projects so litle time. The only major changes I made were to change the bolts to a uniform cyl for the centerfire round instead of the offset forward portion , design a floating(spring loaded) extractor, and redesign the centerline spacing of the pan and bbl plates to prperly orient the centerfire cartridges on the centerline of the bolt instead of the offset orientation needed for the rimfire. Hope all that rambling makes more sense. Richard

| 500|500|2007-08-13 07:19:10|maccrazy2|Current cost of materials and estimated machining time to build|
Hello all, I am new to the board. My name is Chris Byrne. I am looking
into my first gatling gun build and wanted to see what the aprox cost
of materials is for a 22 gun. Also what the estimated machining time is
to build one. I have 2 metal lathes and 2 mills I can use I also have a
smaller cnc machine but it is limited in it's x travel too 2 inches, It
was custom made for inlaying pool cues. I am wanting to make a full
size gun but am thinking of starting on a 22 to get my feet wet. I
figure cost will be less and any screwups won't waste so much material.
Any info is appreciated. Chris.
| 501|493|2007-08-14 01:55:36|hodarthestrange|Re: need help Solid works.|
Richard.
I am new here. First post and all. I was wondering if you would like
to share your Solidworks 3d model. Or at the minimum a e drawings
file. I have the RG plans but don't have the patience to turn them
into 3d so I can process how it all fits together. I have a 4 axis
mill, a couple lathes and a 5 axis cnc router I have made. One lathe
and the mill are being converted to cnc by me as time permits. Gatlins
of various calibers will be a nice test for them.
Thanks for your time.

Donny

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson"
the pattern to ram up some molds to cast the rec and have rounded up
bbl blanks and a few bits of barstock but havent made it much further.
So many projects so litle time. The only major changes I made were to
change the bolts to a uniform cyl for the centerfire round instead of
the offset forward portion , design a floating(spring loaded)
extractor, and redesign the centerline spacing of the pan and bbl
plates to prperly orient the centerfire cartridges on the centerline
of the bolt instead of the offset orientation needed for the rimfire.
Hope all that rambling makes more sense. Richard
| 508|344|2007-08-26 23:29:06|Brian|D&E plans|
I now have the D&E plans for the gatling gun and the carriage. I plan
on starting soon and am in search of material now. I just thought I
would update anyone who cares to know what is going on!!!
| 509|509|2007-09-21 18:58:16|Vincent Ricci|Centerfire Gat|
I am thinking of changing my gat from 22 rim to 22 hornet . Any comments
of suggestions appreciated.
Vinnie
| 510|510|2007-09-24 22:26:38|Don Vasilik|1874 plans|
Hi, my name is Don. i am new to the group. i want to build a small 22
cal. gatling gun. i read in a post where the 1874 plans were available
here in the group files section. Just what files are they? also what
program do i need to open the .gif files. i havent been able to open
them.
i have been a machinist for over 30 years and have built other guns
but always was intrigued by the gatling gun.
Thanks
Don V
| 511|510|2007-09-25 01:47:33|Dale|Re: 1874 plans|

Don........Please be careful about the "free" plans.........The 1874 gatling gun is a copyrighed set of plans to the designer of the gun.........Dale Detrich

| 512|510|2007-09-25 03:00:10|Richard Thompson|Re: 1874 plans|
I thought I should clarify the "free" plans avail for download in the
files section that Don is refering to are the same old 1900 Gatling
drawings that have been freely passed around on the internet for at
least 7-8 years , they also have been printed and sold unchallenged
by at least half a dozen + diff vendors on Gunbroker and Ebay. They
can be found on 3 or 4 other websites currently and I ask permission
from the sight I downloaded them from to post them here a couple of
years ago.

If they are copyrighted its not noted on the plans. I have also sent
registered letter on two seperate occasions to the adress listed on
one of them attempting to find a copy of the manual listed on print 1
and have never gotten a response .
The "free" plans being refered to are not the 1874 prints from D+E
nor are they the plans from RG-G , they are for the 1900 gatling in
30-40 Krag. I would not knowingly post any copyrighted material so I
want to clear that up right off the bat.

Doug at D+E has worked very hard on his 1874 plans and they should
not be shared or passed around, the cost of his plans are really
cheap considering the $500+ youll have in raw materials and the 400-
800+ hours this project

Welcome Don, in answer to your question about viewing the .giff
files , from the files section right click on each of the files and
choose save target as, save them to your desktop, my documents etc ,
once they are done downloading you can double click the file and the
windows photo viewer should open the file, I use paintshop , any
photo viewer will work .
Richard

| 513|510|2007-09-25 03:38:26|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: 1874 plans|

Thank you Richard.

     i am not trying to steal copyrighted material. i was just going by what i read in an earlier post.

I have been off work b/c of a back injury and maybe when i can get some money coming in i can afford to buy the D&E plans. as it is, a year off work with no pay , makes me look for the freebies that i can find.

    i have some engineering background so maybe i can rework the listed plans to get the .22 cal gun.

Thanks again

Don V

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 514|510|2007-09-25 04:09:49|Richard Thompson|Re: 1874 plans|

Good deal , I had no doubt , I just didnt want anyone reading the message down the road to get the impression we were pirating Dale or Pauls hard work . All the basics of the gun are on the 1900 gatling prints , there is a member here that built a working gun from them , scaled down slightly for 223 if memory serves.

| 515|510|2007-09-25 04:40:04|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: 1874 plans|

a .223 cal would be a great gun to build. i like shooting the .223 i have one i use for coyote and woodchuck, although it is not a gatling or grease gun, a single shot, it is fun to shoot.

    i will take the plans that are there and do what i can with them.

Thanks

Don V

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 516|510|2007-09-25 20:57:09|sarmourer|Re: 1874 plans|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, gunrunr298@... wrote:
i have
grease
them.
Don, Be sure to use good quality Center Fire Barrels made for .223. If
you follow the liner path as in the .22 and .22 short plans they will
not stand up to the velocity and pressures. Scaling is good for
modeling but the recoil pressures of the .223 need a solid bolt design.

Also available are .223 adaptors that take a .22 Long Rifle cartrige.
A few of these make for a more economical fun experience.
Philip
| 517|510|2007-09-25 21:21:40|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: 1874 plans|

Phillip

      i wont skimp on the barrels. i have seen first hand what can happen if one "lets" go. when i start building and i get that far i will buy some Green Mountain barrels or another top brand. that old western movie saying

"eat some lead" doesnt really appeal to me.LOL

Don V

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 518|518|2007-09-26 03:45:15|Tom|Question|
I seen a long time ago some plans for a gatling gun that used barrels
from a ruger 10/22. Dose anybody know of these plans. Any info would
be appreciated. Thanks, Tom
| 519|518|2007-09-26 13:23:48|George|Re: Question|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Tom" That gun isn't really a gatling. It uses 2 ruger actions and barrels
with a trigger "mechanism" to alternately fire them. It does not look
or function like a gatling although its cranked.

I am building the D&E plan gun. I am using 10 ruger stainless barrels
which get cut down to about a foot long and turned to approx. 7/16
diameter.

Hope this helps.
| 520|518|2007-10-02 05:58:44|thomas wilson|Re: Question|
George, the one plans uses 6 barrels not the complete gun.    Tom

George
I am building a D & E gun and want to know where I can find a piece of
brass pipe/tubing for the housing. I have access to brass round stock
but I would really hate to have to bore out a piece of stock just to
get the material required for the housing. Any help would be appreciated.

Brian
| 522|521|2007-10-03 04:20:25|John Valukievic|Re: housing|
Brian, do a search on line for a 2x6 brass pipe nipple. I've seen them for around 25.00 plus shipping, better than boring out the round stock iI think

Brian
www.mcmaster.com has all kinds of stuff. Sometimes pricey, though.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, John Valukievic
stock iI think
want to know where I can find a piece of
appreciated.

| 524|521|2007-10-03 05:11:02|gunrunr298@aol.com|housing|

here is what McMaster-Carr has.

Shape

View catalog pages (3)

Compare products (4)

Brass Pipe Fittings and Pipe

4 products match your selections

Shape Nipple

Nipple Type Threaded Ends

Pipe Size 2"

Material Cast Red Brass

Length 6"

Outside Diameter 2.375"

ASTM Specification

ASTM BS 21 | ASTM B43 | ASTM B687-99

Connection â€” Pipe connections chart | Tube connections chart | Hose connections chart

Pipe to Pipe Connection

  NPT x NPT
  NPT Male x BSPT Male
  BSPT x BSPT

Schedule â€” Schedule information

40 | 80

Specifications Met

American National Standards Institute (ANSI) | American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) | American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) | Military Specifications (MIL)

These 4 products match your selections

ASTM Specification Pipe to Pipe Connection Schedule Specifications Met Inside Diameter Wall Thickness Each

ASTM BS 21 NPT Male x BSPT Male 40 American National Standards Institute (ANSI), American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) 2.067" .154" 5832T169 $63.87

ASTM BS 21 BSPT x BSPT 40 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) 2.067" .154" 4824K199 52.93

ASTM B687-99 NPT x NPT 40 Military Specifications (MIL) 2.067" .154" 4568K289 27.64

ASTM B43 NPT x NPT 80 American National Standards Institute (ANSI), American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) 1.939" .218" 9149K99 61.12

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 525|521|2007-10-03 12:52:42|George|Re: housing|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian" Hi Brian,
I am also building the D&E gun. I have the housing completed. I went
through the same problems selecting stock for the housing. A brass
pipe nipple, although often suggested, presents a problem. The
threaded ends are cut deep enough so that if they are turned off the
remaining diameter is too small. It would take a 8 inch nipple to
allow cutting off the threaded ends and leaving enough length remaining
for the housing. The problem I ran into was 6 inch was the longest
nipple carried by any of the sources I could find. Also, the pipe
nipples ID and OD are different than called for on the plans and
require adjusting other parts dimensions to compensate.

If (a big if) you could find a piece of brass 2" pipe, rather than a
nipple, that would be better but very hard to find.

After a lengthy search and research I ended up boring a solid bar that
I got at the junk yard. That allowed the dimensions to be kept at the
drawings dimensions. It does make one almost cry to convert the bar to
90% chips.

It would be good if you post back how you end up proceeding. I
searched the group for the same information when I started the gun and
I am sure more will be searching for the same info in the future.
| 526|526|2007-10-03 13:54:35|Richard Thompson|brass tubing source|
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=85&step=2&top_cat=79
| 527|521|2007-10-04 00:22:56|David Boles|Re: housing|
Brian,
I also built the D&E Design.
Never could find a brass nipple , so went to On Line Metals and
used their 2'"Schd 40 , Type 230 brass pipe.
Had to buy a 11" long piece and used 1/2 for my project.
I have the other half if you are interested.
It would be 35$ plus shipping.
Really hope you come up with something cheaper as I was planning
on keeping it as a spare if I damaged the gun in the future.
Dave

| 528|19|2007-10-04 01:03:10|GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to GatlingGun |
Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the GatlingGun
group.

File : /50caliber.wmv
Uploaded by : gunrunr298 <gunrunr298@... Description : very scary shooting

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/files/50caliber.wmv

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

gunrunr298 <gunrunr298@...| 529|529|2007-10-04 01:05:48|Don Vasilik|very scaring shooting|
i uploaded a file titled very scary shooting. although it does not
pretain to gatling guns i thought the group would like to see this.
the story: this guy is shooting an AR-50 at a steel plate 100
yards downrange. and whistle as it comes tumbling back, strikes the ground in front of
the shooter and then knocks his ear protection off. very scary...and
very lucky guy
Don V
| 530|521|2007-10-04 12:48:28|Brian Barrett|Re: housing|
Dave check your email please !!!!

Brian

David Boles
Looks like your set with the stock for the housing. Now its on to
locating another touch piece, that "chunk" for the yoke! I have many
parts built and the stock for the remaining ones but that yoke is a
big hunk of brass and not easy to find inexpensively. I considered
aluminum with black anodize as a plan "B" but hate to go that route,
the brass looks so nice.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Brian Barrett and
planning
seen
round
round
just to
who knows.

| 532|521|2007-10-13 15:16:53|Brian Barrett|Re: housing|
Well after a long search I found a 12" brass pipe nipple that will
work fine. I know I will have to adjust a few dimensions but over all
it will be just fine, and not noticeable. I had searched quite a bit
for brass pipe that was economically feasible, but none presented
itself. By the way I only paid $37.00 dollars for the SCH 40 2"x12"
Brass nipple.
| 533|533|2007-10-14 17:25:19|gunrunr298@aol.com|got my plans|

Hi everyone

        I got my plans from D&E yesterday. i didnt have time to go through them completely. i was wondering, has anyone made up a bill of materials for this build or do i have to go through it one drawing at a time and make my own BOM?

Thanks

Don V

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 534|533|2007-10-14 17:30:02|George|Re: got my plans|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, gunrunr298@... wrote:
through
materials for
make my
http://www.aol.com
I am building the same gun and had the same question. The material
is called out on each drawing. Some parts you have a choice of
materials, the bolt carrier for example, some make it from steel,
brass, bronze, even aluminum. Shafts, I used 316 stainless, plain
steel is the norm. There is no material list, you have to make your
own. As you know, there is a lot of brass parts, make a list and
start collecting.
| 535|533|2007-10-14 18:07:30|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: got my plans|

Thanks. i guess i will just sit down and study for a while. see what i need

Don V

See what's new at AOL.com and Make AOL Your Homepage.
| 536|536|2007-10-18 02:57:52|Jim|Going to build it now|
After starting to make the gun then putting it in a box with only four
or five peices completed last year I have the bug again. I like using
my shop in the winter in Fl when it is only in the 70's- 80's instead
of 90-100 inside the shop.

I have a bunch of brass I accumulated that a recycler puts aside for me
and sells it to me at scrap prices. It was $1 per pound not much over a
year ago, now he hits me for $3 and says he is losing money by not
taking it to his buyer.

I could always cast it from copper and tin but that is a pain and I
don't like melting anything that I have to get hotter than aluminum.

I'm off the the shop to make chips.

JIM
| 537|536|2007-10-21 21:04:12|Wes S|Re: Going to build it now|
On 18 Oct 2007 at 0:57, Jim wrote:

I doubt he is losing money. Scrap price is not equal to raw price.
Wes
| 538|538|2007-10-21 21:08:58|Wes S|Any progress on .22LR|
I seem to remember that someone was working on a .22LR version vs the
.22 Short version. Did any progress get made? Did it prove
unworkable?

Wes S
| 539|536|2007-10-21 22:18:35|Jim|Re: Going to build it now|
I quoted the wrong price. I just went back for some more. He charges
$1.00 for brass/bronze, $.75 for aluminum and it was copper that he was
getting $3.00 per pound for from his buyer. Last week he had a bucket
full of bronze bushings, some with flanges some plain. They were all
new. 5 lbs = $5.00. Not bad. He aslo had two nice bars of 6061 AL 3/8"
x 3" x 36" so I picked up those also.

My brass round I had for the housing is to small. I will have to look
for some more or cast a peice. I don't like to cast brass because of
the high heat comparred to AL but I just made a new burner for my
foundry and it would be a good test.

JIM
| 540|540|2007-10-28 08:24:24|Jim|No dividing head needed !|
I still don't have a dividing head but I do have a DRO on my mill
that I wired up last week. I called my father a few hours ago and had
him plot the hole locations for the barrel ring. He is a accomplished
home gun builder and engineer.

I faced off the brass in my lathe then center drilled it with a
centering bit. I moved it to the mill and set the x and y at 0
centered over the hole I drilled.

I moved the drill bit to each of the X and Y locations that were
provided. Success!

These same numbers will work with the breach block.

I will post the word version and an excel spread sheet in the files.
The excel version should let you plug in different radius and such
for different needs but I can't verify it because I don't have Excel
and can't open it.

JIM

X Y
0.775 0
0.626988 0.455534
0.239488 0.737069
-0.23949 0.737069
-0.62699 0.455534
-0.775 0
-0.62699 -0.45553
-0.23949 -0.73707
0.239488 -0.73707
0.626988 -0.45553
| 541|541|2007-10-30 21:21:16|Chas Potero|(no subject)|
thank you for letting join

__________________________________________________
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| 542|542|2007-10-31 21:49:22|Marshall Bowers|BB Gatling Gun|
I've seen BB Gatling Guns, does anybody have plans for one? Some ideas
have rattled through my head, I just don't know if they'd work.
| 543|543|2007-11-02 03:26:48|Brian Barrett|Need help with this !!!|
I need some serious help with making the bolts. I have several
questions for you pertaining to how to make them.

First off what is the dimensions of the 2 off-sets.

Secondly what is the diameter of the round stock for which you start
out with?

Thirdly, what process did you use to make them, was it all on a mill
or lathe and mill ??
| 544|543|2007-11-02 05:41:47|George|Re: Need help with this !!!|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Barrett" First, we need to know which set of plans you are using?

Assuming its the D&E gun, there are a two popular approaches to the
bolts. One is use round stock (drill rod normally) the size of the
bolt body, with a groove milled in the rear and the square bolt-lug a
seperate piece that is silver soldered in. The other approach is to
make it from one piece, more difficult but a better finished product.
The reduced diameter of the front of the bolt is turned in a lathe
using the "bolt fixture" in the plans which provides the offset. The
face of the bolt is cut with a homemade cutter. The homemade cutter
is detailed in the plans. There are pictures of the D%E bolts being
made here in the photo gallery, using the more difficult method but
the end product looks the same.

Now if its not the D&E gun, all that was for nothing. LOL

Your starting the project with the bolts? Most start with the
housing, the rails, shafts etc. sort of making the parts in the
order they are assembled. Nothing says it has to be done in any
particular order however.
| 545|545|2007-11-02 05:52:51|Jim|Barrel not centered|
I just turned a barrel for the gun. I chucked one end with a 4 jaw and
used a dead center in the other end. Big mistake. I should have hung it
between centers and turned it true to the bore after cutting it down
close to the correct length. it turned out the hole in the barrel (an
old take off, unk brand) was way off center. I thought my set up must
have slipped but I took the cut off and it is clearly way off. I had to
use the middle of the barell to have enough because of the dovetail for
the rear site and the bid soldered on front site. Now I am down to 9
barrels to turn. I will wait to order another to see how many more I
mess up.

JIM
| 546|545|2007-11-02 06:10:26|warren hughes|Re: Barrel not centered|
Jim cutting down a barrel is a pain as the tool pushes and the heat will make the darn things bend on you real easy . A smith I know puts the barrels in a potters kiln and anneals them a little this gives you slag in the barrel so you end up lapping but they cut much truer . Good luck Warren Hughes Owner of 1966 rear axle barrel from a cuda . 30 cal. carbine on a TC

Jim
Check out the files for a mini gun in a SUV. It is awesome! A very
worthwile video clip.

JIM
| 548|547|2007-11-02 17:13:39|Marshall Bowers|Re: Gatling gun protection SUV|
So, is that an anti-carjacking device? I can see how it would be
useful in rush hour traffic.

| 549|547|2007-11-03 03:05:23|Jim|Re: Gatling gun protection SUV|
In a world or politically correct BS it is good to see we still have
the balls to keep our President safe. Using the best firepower
available is not optional. I hope they never have to use that but if
they do the next idiot may think twice after seeing what happened to
the last one who tried anything.

JIM

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Marshall Bowers"
| 550|543|2007-11-03 05:21:40|Brian Barrett|Re: Need help with this !!!|
NO I have simply gotten to that point in the build that I want to
tackle the difficult parts, besides my friend and I are tag teaming
this build, we make 2 of each part.

I will look at the plans once again and see if I can see something i
missed. Thanks. !!

| 551|551|2007-11-04 07:02:20|GuyW|Firepower magazines|

I'm thinking about selling my full set of Firepower magazines (April '84-Jan '89, 28 issues).

Any ideas on value?

-Guy-
| 552|551|2007-11-06 01:27:01|Brian Barrett|Re: Firepower magazines|
What are they for sure, if they are what I think they are I would be
interested, a picture or two would be nice !!!???!!!

| 553|551|2007-11-06 02:11:16|Richard Thompson|Re: Firepower magazines|

I have a full set also that I had considered selling, the last ones on Ebay sold for $350

| 554|551|2007-11-06 02:15:55|GuyW|Re: Firepower magazines|

Wow! Thanx for the intel...

-Guy-

| 555|555|2007-11-16 03:52:29|Brian Barrett|cams|
Can someone please tell me how they made the front and rear cams, "D&E
plans"
| 556|555|2007-11-16 06:11:34|George|Re: cams|
I am building the D%E gun. There are pretty good instructions how to
make the cams in the printed pages that came with the plans.

As for myself.... I got temporarily sidetracked on my building while I
did a cnc conversion on my mill over the last month or so. Its up and
running now and I just made the ocsillator cam a couple nights ago.
The internal cams are super easy with cnc but can be readily made
manually, it just takes MUCH MUCH longer.

The basic manual approach is to mount the lathe turned tube on a rotary
table (vertical) and rotate it in small steps while advancing the table
feed with each step. The details of the process are in the printed
plan documentation. Its sort of like drilling a series of closely
spaced holes to make a larger circle.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Barrett"
| 557|555|2007-11-17 05:44:27|Richard Thompson|Re: cams|
Hi Brian, I used a piece of the same tubing that I used for the
receiver. The stock I used was fairly thick walled so I had to bore the
piece for the receiver and turn the outside of the piece I used to make
the cams. I am not exactly sure of the best method for machining the
cams manualy, maybe Dave will chime in with the setup he used. I set
mine up on a mandrel sticking out of the rotary table which is slaved
as the 4th axis on my cnc mill and just machined it as drawn on the
print with a 1/8" endmill in a few passes.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Barrett"
| 558|555|2007-11-17 16:14:50|David Boles|Re: cams|
Brian.
I machined mine manually. It is time consuming but does work well.
I did not use a rotary table.
Used a B&S ( Brown and Sharp ) Indexing Head with chuck and a
Bridgeport mill.
Machine the blanks on the lathe,
I then made an expanding mandrel from aluminum ( using pipe plug to
expand the split aluminum )
The aluminum mandrel was chucked onto the B&S , horizontally.
This mandrel allows gripping of the blanks and also the tool bit can
cut into the aluminum , no problem
Other than that , I followed Doug's ( D&E ) directions. i.e.small
rotations while table is advanced.
Part must completely smoothed after completion.
Good Luck
Dave

| 559|545|2007-12-10 16:11:34|Richard Thompson|Re: Barrel not centered|

Alot of bbls are way off center. quite common when cutting up old bbls for diff projects to find even though th hole is in the center at each end it will be off center .060" or more out in the center.

| 560|545|2007-12-11 05:21:20|jim jones|Re: Barrel not centered|
I made another by mounting between centers. It came out very good. I got off on a 50 cal BMG rifle build and should have it done in a month or so and I will get back on the gatling gun.

It is very easy comparred to the gatling, all big parts and only one of each.

Also, the parts you made are awesome. I am getting better at this but think the pan is still out of my ability after looking at the one you made. The rest of the parts look like I can pull them off.

JIM

Richard Thompson
hi all, just looking for some input on the grizzly G3103 Vertical Mill
w/ Table Power Feed , i'm looking at it for this project and many more
that pop up around the farm, or maybe the G3616 Vertical Mill i'm
looking mainly for versatillity here, really appreciate your help

ryan
| 562|561|2007-12-13 21:45:44|George|Re: grizzly mill|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "ryant1972" more
I had the larger grizzly mill/drill for years before upgrading to a
bridgeport. The grizzly was a good machine overall. Of the two
models you show, the 3616 is a big step ahead of the other. Weight
has a lot to do with how rigid a machine is and the quality of work
as a result. I'd also give consideration to a used bridgeport.
There are a lot of them out there and not too expensive, often with
digital readouts. My bridgeport has the variable speed head which I
love after years of changing belt positions on the mill drill.
Locally (Rochester, NY) I have seen several bridgeports for sale over
the last few months in the $1000-$1500 range. The savings could be
used for tooling. As a extra, sometimes used machines come with a
bunch of tooling.
| 563|561|2007-12-15 03:52:20|Chas Potero|Re: grizzly mill|
YOU SHOULD LOK FOR A BRIDGEPORT MILL UNLESS THEY ARE TO EXPENSIVE

George
how bout this one ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&item=110204486947&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:Watchlin
k:middle:us

see any downfalls? or questions i need to ask?

| 565|561|2007-12-15 05:14:55|K H|Re: grizzly mill|
Ebay item 110204486947 is a 3 phase unit. You will either need 3 phase power (common ofr industry but not for residential) or a somewhat pricey converter to convert single phase (typical residential power) to 3 phase power.

It looks like an old timer but the ad states it is still tight and smooth so it should be alright. Actually it looks like a pretty nice unit. I have run a few really sloppy Bridgeport units and with some skill even they can do some precision work.

----- Original Message ----
From: ryant1972
how bout this one ?

http://cgi.ebay. com/ws/eBayISAPI .dll?
ViewItem&item= 110204486947& fromMakeTrack= true&ssPageName= VIP:Watchlin
k:middle:us

see any downfalls? or questions i need to ask?

Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
| 566|561|2007-12-15 05:50:01|Richard Thompson|Re: grizzly mill|

You can get a Variable freqeuncy drive for as little as $150 that will allow you to run the three phase machine on single phase . They work very well , I have 4 of them running daily in my shop in addition to a couple of cheaper static converters

| 567|561|2007-12-15 06:17:01|warren hughes|Re: grizzly mill|
Richard I have three machines that are three faze but the buzz boxes don't seem to give full torque . And the old mill has something my Father built that is beyond me how it works for shore. It runs with three motors . One is a 220 single faze the other is a three faze and they run hooked together with a one to one belt drive .They are also wired together some how . This supplies power for this huge antique motor that runs the mill . Again the torque seems low . So what I am asking is just what are you running/ Thanks Warren Hughes

Richard Thompson
how hard or expensive is it to convert one of these big mills to cnc?

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" will allow you to run the three phase machine on single phase . They
work very well , I have 4 of them running daily in my shop in
addition to a couple of cheaper static converters
3 phase power (common ofr industry but not for residential) or a
somewhat pricey converter to convert single phase (typical
residential power) to 3 phase power.
and smooth so it should be alright. Actually it looks like a pretty
nice unit. I have run a few really sloppy Bridgeport units and with
some skill even they can do some precision work.
VIP:Watchlin
wrote:
EXPENSIVE
Mill
to
sale
could
with
-----------

| 569|561|2007-12-15 06:25:15|ryant1972|Re: grizzly mill|
yea i seen that before with a 3 phase air compressor with just one
extra motor that you would have to give a little spin by hand and it
would power the compressor with 2 phase, seems like it would be a
little off with two phases right and a third thrown on top

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, warren hughes boxes don't seem to give full torque . And the old mill has
something my Father built that is beyond me how it works for shore.
It runs with three motors . One is a 220 single faze the other is a
three faze and they run hooked together with a one to one belt
drive .They are also wired together some how . This supplies power
for this huge antique motor that runs the mill . Again the torque
seems low . So what I am asking is just what are you running/ Thanks
Warren Hughes
Variable freqeuncy drive for as little as $150 that will allow you
to run the three phase machine on single phase . They work very
well , I have 4 of them running daily in my shop in addition to a
couple of cheaper static converters
need 3 phase power (common ofr industry but not for residential) or
a somewhat pricey converter to convert single phase (typical
residential power) to 3 phase power.
smooth so it should be alright. Actually it looks like a pretty
nice unit. I have run a few really sloppy Bridgeport units and with
some skill even they can do some precision work.
VIP:Watchlin
wrote:
to

| 570|561|2007-12-15 06:32:58|Richard Thompson|Re: grizzly mill|

I had a couple of rotary phase convertors and a static and had the exact same problem , never enough torque and the motors always ran alittle warmer than I liked. I have replaced all but one static converter with variable frequency drives and have been very happy , On all the 2-3 hp motors I am running Teco FM100 drives and they work great , the FM50 is about $100 less , just not as programable. These can usualy be had up to 5 hp that allow operation of 3 phase motors on single phase power, I have one on my 15hp milling center also operating on single phase , its made by yaskawa or something similar and was a bit pricey

The other advantage of the VFD is when(if) you decide to take the pluge and convert to cnc you can attach the vfd directl to the computer to control speed and direction. One of the other things I like about the VFD on the lathe is I have a big braking resistor installed that will stop the spindle really fast

here is a link to a comp with some VFDs starting around $150, often cheaper on ebay http://www.dealerselectric.com/

I cant remember the name but I did find the 2hp teco FM50 for $150 when my neighbor bought his bridgeport clone last year

| 571|561|2007-12-15 06:38:12|Richard Thompson|Re: grizzly mill|

not to bad , I did my bridgeport clone a couple of years ago for $1100 , with some nib servo motors I bought off ebay.

I just finished the conversion of my 14x40 enco lathe yesterday , turned a few test pieces and a bbl for my fn p90 today , very happy . As soon as you make the leap to cnc you will wonder why you ever turned a hand wheel manualy , Youll also be amazd at the amount of things and the complexity you can make when you dont have to stand there doing it all by hand

| 572|561|2007-12-15 07:12:00|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: grizzly mill|

anyone can build a simple 3 phase rotary converter to run a 3 phase machine in their shop. I bought an old South Bend lathe about 3 months ago and built my own converter for about $50. It works great. No loss of power at all. Check the link i have attached or do a google search for 3 phase converters.

Don V

Phase Converters

See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter.
| 573|561|2007-12-15 19:09:42|George Mouer|Re: grizzly mill|

Not very hard to convert but expensive.   I did a cnc conversion of a x/y table unit that I put up on my main bridgeport table and bolt down just like a vise. It has smaller travels and is lighter duty but does the typical home shop sized pieces nicely.   I considered converting the bridgeport directly but it would need much larger, longer ballscrews which cost a lot and much larger motors, again costing much more.

In my opinion (and others) converting a manual mill to cnc is not the best way to proceed for hobby use.   A older (80's vintage) cnc mill, such as a bridgport cnc, would already have ballscrews, motors, a automatic lube system, and many other desireable features for cnc use. Often those old cnc's can be found with bad electronics. The electronics is the main thing that has changed over the years.    A PC can be used for a controller with Mach 3 software and bring the capability up to date cheaply.   Replacing the electronics on a old cnc results in a better unit than doing a conversion to a manual unit and usually ends up costing less.

Bear in mind, on a cnc the table is moving constantly, at higher speeds than a manual machine, over and over. A true cnc has hardware set up for that movement, central auto lube system, more rugged ways, ball screws and so forth. In the cnc game, speed is king, older machines cannot compete with the newer stuff in the business as far as production goes. This is what makes old cnc's not worth much, however they are perfect for a hobbyist.

As for the 3 phase power discussion.   Personally, I use a home made roto-phase unit which does allow the bridgeport motor to develop full power.   Static phase converters are much cheaper but only develop about 2/3 power with a given motor.   2/3 is often enough for the home user, its rare the motor is loaded to its full power requirement. Developing 3-phase power isn't a big issue or cost no matter what method is used.

| 574|561|2007-12-15 19:12:38|George|Re: grizzly mill|
VFD's are the hot ticket for sure. Another point is they take up no
room, are completely silent, nothing to maintain, and great for cnc
conversion as mentioned.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" exact same problem , never enough torque and the motors always ran
alittle warmer than I liked. I have replaced all but one static
converter with variable frequency drives and have been very happy ,
On all the 2-3 hp motors I am running Teco FM100 drives and they work
great , the FM50 is about $100 less , just not as programable. These
can usualy be had up to 5 hp that allow operation of 3 phase motors
on single phase power, I have one on my 15hp milling center also
operating on single phase , its made by yaskawa or something similar
and was a bit pricey
pluge and convert to cnc you can attach the vfd directl to the
computer to control speed and direction. One of the other things I
like about the VFD on the lathe is I have a big braking resistor
installed that will stop the spindle really fast
cheaper on ebay http://www.dealerselectric.com/
when my neighbor bought his bridgeport clone last year
boxes don't seem to give full torque . And the old mill has something
my Father built that is beyond me how it works for shore. It runs
with three motors . One is a 220 single faze the other is a three
faze and they run hooked together with a one to one belt drive .They
are also wired together some how . This supplies power for this huge
antique motor that runs the mill . Again the torque seems low . So
what I am asking is just what are you running/ Thanks Warren Hughes
that will allow you to run the three phase machine on single phase .
They work very well , I have 4 of them running daily in my shop in
addition to a couple of cheaper static converters
need 3 phase power (common ofr industry but not for residential) or a
somewhat pricey converter to convert single phase (typical
residential power) to 3 phase power.
tight and smooth so it should be alright. Actually it looks like a
pretty nice unit. I have run a few really sloppy Bridgeport units
and with some skill even they can do some precision work.
VIP:Watchlin
and
Mill
your
upgrading to
of
bridgeport.
often
drill.
sale
could
with
------
----------

| 575|561|2007-12-15 21:29:23|George|Re: grizzly mill|
A few of the pieces of the D&E gatling gun is what pushed me over the
edge. Yes they can be done manually but they are a LOT of work. I
just made up the front rail piece the other day which is loaded with
curves and such.

I have a bridgeport series 1 variable speed machine and a 14x40
geared head lathe. I made up a x/y table, cnc controlled 6x18 from
the table and base for a mini mill. I used ballscrews. The whole
table bolts up on my bridgeport table just like a vise mounts. I did
a Z drive for the bridgeport quill. I'm using Mach3 to drive it all.

For Richard... a couple questions....
Is your lathe conversion done in a way such that it still can be used
manually?

What sort of software are you using for drawing and G-code?

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" $1100 , with some nib servo motors I bought off ebay.
turned a few test pieces and a bbl for my fn p90 today , very happy .
As soon as you make the leap to cnc you will wonder why you ever
turned a hand wheel manualy , Youll also be amazd at the amount of
things and the complexity you can make when you dont have to stand
there doing it all by hand
cnc?
that
They
pretty
with
and
your
upgrading
of
bridgeport.
often
drill.

| 576|561|2007-12-15 22:46:16|Richard Thompson|Re: grizzly mill|

Hi George, I my cnc lathe and mill conversion both still have handwheels present for manual operation , On the lathe I did strip off the gearbox , apron and all related feed goodies so use as a manual machine is limited to basic x and z movement . I am using the breakout board from cnc4pc.com , a couple of huge DC servo motors with Gecko drives and Mach3 to control, very nice software. I have been using the deskcnc board in the bridgeport and am replacing it with mach3 this week. The mill I bought came with ball screws and I found suitable reliant servos with encoders new in the box on ebay for $160 each. The motors are large enough and were priced cheaply enough that I ended up powering the quill and the knee so depending on the depth of the paticular job I can choose which one to use as the z axis. I fitted ball screw to drive the quill. I also put a servo motor on one of the nice 8" horizontal/vertical rotary tables from phase2 and often plug it in instead of the knee for 4 axis machining .

On the cnc lathe I installed ball screws on both axis and made a nice setup to mount the same huge servos I used on the mill . Made for a very nice setup. I mounted some nice optical switches , again off ebay, for all my home switches on both machines .

If you patiently wait for properly sized servo motors o pop up on ebay and at a few of the electronic salvage places you can do a conversion fairly economicaly . I do agree buying a good used Boss5-9 Bridgeport with dead electronics is propbably the cheapest way to go since ball screws are already fitted , even if it uses the brushless ac servo motors Rutex has drives for around $200 per axis to control those.

Since there isnt a whole lot going on in the gatling arena I will post some pics tonight of my mill and lathe along with some pics of the new full size gatling kits I saw at knob creek and a really nice reproduction 2" hotchkiss revolving cannon

| 577|561|2007-12-16 03:31:26|jim jones|Re: grizzly mill|
I have a Southbend Mill that looks just like a Bridgeport. It has a 220 3 phaze 2 hp motor. To run it I just took an antique 5 hp 3 phaze motor and hooked two power wires to it off a 30 amp 240 volt breaker. Then I took three wires from it to the mill. I wrap a cord around the big 5 hp motor's pully, spin it up by hand then turn on the power to it as it is spinning. Once it is running I can use the mill as if it was hooked up to a proper 3 phase power source.

The 5 hp motor generates the third leg of the 3 phase power but it is a little weaker than it should be. That is why I use a 5 hp motor to run a 2 hp motor. It has full power to the mill. The idler motor won't start on it's own without the caps and such wired in. I did not want to try and figure out all that stuff so I just use the rope to start it.

JIM

ryant1972 | 578|578|2007-12-17 17:53:42|superfluities1|need machining project ideas for 7 year old|
7 year old nephew visiting for xmas(along with his three sisters)-
need a simple guy project! I have Millport and a 14x54 lathe. Just want
to show there are other/better things to do than watching TV.
| 579|578|2007-12-17 19:05:17|b w|Re: need machining project ideas for 7 year old|
I turned a solid .50 case and bullet out of aluminum
for a friends son one time and he thought it was neat
as hell. The father not being into guns felt it was
safe since it was all one piece.

--- superfluities1 <lbp.inc@...
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
| 580|580|2008-02-27 03:58:42|Dennis|D&E Gatling gun|
Just wanted to know if there is anyone out there currently building the
D&E gun. I really just got started and have some questions. I called
Douglas and discovered that he is very ill and was unable to spend much
time even taking on the phone. This group has been very quite so I
didn't want to type up a bunch of questions until I see if I get a
response. Thanks Dennis
| 581|580|2008-02-27 04:15:34|Richard Thompson|Re: D&E Gatling gun|

There are a number of us here that have built or are building the D+E so feel free to ask and surely a few folks will chime in, for most folks this is a long term project so activity is sometimes slow

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:59 PM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] D&E Gatling gun

Just wanted to know if there is anyone out there currently building the
D&E gun. I really just got started and have some questions. I called
Douglas and discovered that he is very ill and was unable to spend much
time even taking on the phone. This group has been very quite so I
didn't want to type up a bunch of questions until I see if I get a
response. Thanks Dennis

| 582|580|2008-02-27 05:10:28|George|Re: D&E Gatling gun|
I am building the D&E gun. Its coming along nicely. I have the
housing, frame rails, barrels, barrel rings, shafts, crank,
oscillator cam, and a few other parts done.

I called Doug for the first time in months last week and talked with
his wife. It appears Doug is in pretty bad shape from his heart
attack with only half his heart functioning. I was thinking of
posting that info for all the D&E gun fans that didn't know Doug is
quite sick.

Back to the gun.... I'd be glad to help with any questions you may
have.

| 583|580|2008-02-27 05:18:42|George Mouer|Re: D&E Gatling gun|

I have a question that I have been wondering about.

What holds the bolt carrier, pan, and barrel assembly in alignment? The only thing I can see is the step in the main shaft near the cocking ring, the 3/8 nut in front of the barrell ring would squeeze the above listed parts up against that step/shoulder locking it all together.    But what about the rotational alignment? Do you just line everything up and then tighten down the 3/8 nut?     There is no alignment pins that I seen.

Also, the cocking ring..... once screwed into location, what holds it in place from rotating?   I didn't see any on the plans but figured on drilling a hold through the housing into the ring and threading a small screw to lock it into place. I would think it would rotate under the force/friction of pulling the firing pins back.

Inquiring minds what to know......

| 584|584|2008-02-27 18:33:41|Dennis|Newbie questions|
Hi George and Richard

I have a number of questions.

First, does this group still have a moderator? My friend applied for
membership two weeks ago and has not received a response.

I am just a machinist wannabe so my questions will show a lack of
knowledge and experience. I have over the past few years but together
a toy room in my basement consisting of a Rung Fu R30 Mill/Drill, a
South Bend 10L which I completely restored and a Hardinge TM mill.
Obviously more equipment than experience.

So far I have completed the wheels, hubs and axle for the carriage. I
decided to start with this to become familiar with the plans and to
gain experience. So far so good. I have the barrels about half done.
I have a taper attachment on my 10L which I have never used and have
experienced some difficultly turning the tapers. I managed to trash
two barrels so I put those on hold, hoping that Numrich will get more
in stock.

I next decided to start on the main part of the gun. I thought I
would make the cocking ring first so I could use it as thread gauge
for the housing. So maybe you see that I am already heading down the
wrong path, but I don't understand how I find the x-axis. Do I have
to turn and thread the cocking ring, install it in the body with cams
in place to locate the x-axis and then remove it and mill the slot
and hole in the ring? Also, I don't quite understand the purpose of
the .010 boss he talks about when cutting it off. Is this left on the
cocking ring or machined off after everything is fitted.

Thanks
| 585|584|2008-02-27 19:37:30|George|Re: Newbie questions|
I'll start at the bottom of the list first. The .010 boss. Just
last night I was reading that in the instructons also but it does not
show on the drawing. I believe the boss was replaced by the 2 .010
ground steel washers/spacers.

Barrels... I used Ruger 10/22 stainless barrels. First I cut about
5 inches off the length, then turned them down straight (no taper) to
1/2 inch, then I reversed it, leaving about a inch of the chamber end
sticking out the 5c collet and turned the breech end to 3/8. I used
a adjustable acorn type die for the threads. First I took a piece of
scrap round brass and drilled and tapped it 3/8-24 to use as a
gauge. Then I offset the tailstock and cut the taper. The stainless
barrels are tough and want to flex in the center and chatter. I did
the roughing with carbide then switched to a sharp, high angle, HSS
bit for the finish cuts. The HSS with its steep angles generates far
less pressure for the finish cuts. Last step was to cut the hex end.

A note on that hex. The drawings are confusing. The barrels taper
to .416 where the hex begins and the brass ring mounts. The hex is
3/8 across the flats. I did that and the brass ring wouldn't go on!!
3/8 across flats is larger across the points than the .416 holes in
the brass ring. After considering the options, including rounding
off the points, I decided to recut the hex shapes to 9mm which is
only slightly smaller and yet clears the holes in the brass ring.

Not sure what you mean with your question on the cocking ring and x
axis. The thread on the ring is fine, 1/32 per turn, so the rings
position along the bore centerline will not change appreciably when
you line up the cocking ring. Pulling back the firing pins a 32nd of
a inch more or less shouldn't matter. This is my theory, hopefully
somewill confirm.

I have the cocking ring turned, threaded and the center hole but have
not cut the firing pin groove yet nor the hole for loading the bolts.

| 586|584|2008-02-28 06:06:36|David Boles|Re: Newbie questions|
Dennis,
I also have been working on the D&E. ( actually finally completed ,
built over several years)
It has been a while , but I believe i did as you referenced with the
cocking ring.
i.e. threaded it in place against the cams and then found the x
reference line for the further machining.
Also used the Ruger 10-22 barrels with good success ( not stainless
). Had a taper attachment on my old 13" SB lathe.
I believe I used a follower rest and fine files to complete the
finish. Flexing is a problem.
Also built the full carriage.
Sorry to hear about Doug's illness. Talked to him many times and met
him at one show.
Dave

| 587|584|2008-02-28 14:15:26|George|Re: Newbie questions|
Dennis,

Have you fired your gun? I would love to know what issues you ran
into that needed more fine tuning.

I have seen references to a issue of balancing the firing pin spring
pressure with how hard the crank turns. Apparently some have had
problems with rounds not detonating and had to increase firing pin
spring pressure but then the gun cranks harder.

George

| 588|588|2008-02-28 15:22:35|Dennis|Thanks for the help|
Thanks for the reply.

Dave, have you tried to fire your gun? :
The reason I wanted to use the taper attachment instead of offset
tailstock for tuuning the taper was so I could use the follow rest. I
had some problems with my taper attachment binding and cutting groves
into the barrel. Using a follow rest you have to make the entire cut
in one pass. I have reworked my taper attachment but havn't go up the
nerve to try it again.

George, did you hold the thread end of the barrel in a collet and
offset the tail stock when you turned the taper or did you use centers.

Also, in a previous post you ask what holds the cocking ring in place
and you indicated you were going to drill a hole in the housing and
use a screw to lock it in place. That is the reason you need to screw
it down tight and find the x axis before milling the hole and slot.
This is exactly what I was confused about.

Thanks again, and I am sure there will be many more questions.
| 589|589|2008-02-28 15:30:28|Dennis|Message for Richard Thompson|
Richard,

Do you know that earthlink is rejecting your emails. I tried to contact
you via one of the links on your web site and earthlink rejected the
email due to inactivity of the account.
| 590|588|2008-02-28 15:59:00|George|Re: Thanks for the help|
I wasn't sure if the cocking ring was supposed to be screwed down
tight against the shoulder or not.

I did not hold the thread of the barrel in the collet. I turned the
taper to end at about the last inch of the barrel. I turned the od
for the thread (3/8). Then as the last step, I held the barrel by
that last inch in a collet, which was straight, and threaded the stub
protruding.

I offset the tailstock for the taper, with a center and the chuck end
held in a collet.

I had problems with flex and chattering and found the solution to
rough it with a carbide insert cutter and use HSS for the finishing
cuts. The HSS generates MUCH less pressure and with light cuts gives
a real nice finish and minimum flex (2-4 thou) without a follower
rest. The HSS bit is ground with high angles, just like for
aluminum. I left about 5 thou for the HSS finishing cuts. THe
minimal flex in the center (2-4 thou) you can't see and does not
effect function in any way. I tried a follower but wasn't happy with
the results.

| 591|588|2008-02-28 16:43:25|Nick Andrews|Re: Thanks for the help|
Why bother to taper the barrels at all? Historical accuracy?

| 592|588|2008-02-28 20:24:09|Dennis|Why taper the barrels?|
Hi Nick,

I just think the tapered barrels add to the overall appearance. Also, I
guess part of the challenge for me, not being a machinist, is to take a
set of plans and try and make is as accurate as possible. If I start
avoiding the hard stuff I am not sure what I end up with.

Dennis
| 593|588|2008-02-28 20:41:51|Nick Andrews|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Hi Dennis,

Good points. I think if I ever get to do one, I might like the straight barrel look myself. But then that is the beauty of building it yourself, you do what you want!

| 594|588|2008-02-28 22:21:05|George|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
The taper is mostly for looks. The hex is another matter, the hex is
used for putting a socket on and screwing the barrels into the barrel
plate.

The barrels are quite tight together at the chamber end with a lot more
space between them at the front ring. The taper does improve the
looks considerably.

| 595|588|2008-02-29 05:35:08|David Boles|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Dennis,
The original 1874 model had the tapered barrels. So it is consistent
with the real gun.
Also, without the taper, there would be no room for the barrel ring
with the existing dimensions.
I have fired mine and it still needs more work to make it more
reliable.
Basic issue is firing pin spring force ( need more ) vs. handle crank
force. At some point small drive pin will shear with too much handle
force.
I converted to non rotating firing pins and this seems to help,
because firing pin can be shaped to strike at a better position.
What is needed is a cartridge with more sensitive primer.
I am no expert and other builders have made modifications as well.
It does look good when finished !
Dave

| 596|588|2008-02-29 06:28:19|George|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Can you give a little more detail on "non rotating firing pins" that
you did.

I have seen the firing pin spring vs cranking effort problem
mentioned before.

Knowing of this common problem, I am planning to use minature ball
bearings instead of the square guide blocks on each bolt. This
should cut the rotating force required and allow stiffer firing pin
springs. I'd rather sacrifice the deviating from the original for
more reliable operation, especially considering the bolt lugs are not
visable. I talked briefly with Doug a while back about this and he
and others have used bearings experimenting. Also, I got the idea
from a webpage showing a scale .22 minigun, electrically driven, that
had bearings on the bolts to follow the cams.

I have not yet fully explored the details of this mod.

A question.... Is the majority of the cranking force required due to
the firing pin springs? Curious is you tried cranking with and
without firing pins to see the difference.

| 597|588|2008-02-29 13:55:07|David Boles|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
George,
Basically i followed the plans and made the bolts as shown, and the
round firing pins.
Later I used the same bolts , but broached out the rear brass
bushing to 4mm square.
Then made new 4mm square firing pins ( the main body of the firing
pin , projecting end is still round ).
The material was 4mm key stock.
Actually drilled and soldered in drill rod for the projecting firing
pin, then the square key stock was threaded for the spring adjuster.
The opposite end of the key stock was turned down and a small button
soldered on ( the part that is gripped and pulled back for firing )
The net result is a projecting round firing pin that can be shaped as
desired ( best shape seems to be a wedge oriented towards the rim of
the cartridge ) but does not rotate. The main square body of the firing
pin does not allow rotation of the projecting pin.
The beauty is the bolt does not need to be modified. ( only broaching
the rear bushing )
Mine works very freely until the firing springs are added. Actually ,
just to get it to this stage is a major accomplishment and takes a lot
fitting and polishing.
They springs really seem to compound the cranking force as several are
in the process of being cocked at the same time.
It is definitly an adventure in mechanics.
The real fun starts if you are using live ammo and it jams. ( which
apparently was not uncommon with the real gun )
Then you have shells in the chambers and firing pins cocked or being
cocked, and it has to be unloaded ! Like a live grenade with the pin
pulled !
The ball bearings sound like ann interesting idea. Would like to hear
more.
Dave

| 598|588|2008-02-29 15:04:16|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: Why taper the barrels?|

That offset wedge style of firing pin is the proper style to use. If anyone doesn't have a 22 rifle around, go to your nearest rifle range and pickup spent 22 shell casings. Look at the firing pin end of them. Every one will have the indent from the firing pin offset to the side(rim) and it is a wedge or line type of strike mark.None of the gun makers use a round firing pin centered on a 22. Hence the name "rim fire". The edges of the rim is where the actual primer is on the inside of the casing. If you can make your firing pins like that you should not have any problems with a misfire. I cant address the crank handle issue myself. I have had my plans for several months but have not started to build yet. I have a lathe in my shop but my mill wont be here for about a week and a half yet. Then i have to get my tooling for it. So, i am still a ways off before i start on my gun.

JMHO

Don V

In a message dated 2/29/2008 6:55:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, davidboles@... writes:

Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL Living.

| 599|588|2008-02-29 15:43:30|George|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Here is a link to the page with the rimfire mini-gun. Look at the
bolts and you will see the ball bearings.

http://www.montysminiguns.com/brian.htm

Another thought. Those .010 ground steel washers sandwiching the
cocking ring. They are functioning as thrust bearings. The combined
pull of the firing pins cocking pulls the bolt carrier back against
these washers. I would guess there is a fair amount of force and
friction. What about substituting one of those flat washer type,
needle thrust bearings?

| 600|588|2008-02-29 16:50:05|gahaodha|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Hellow!

Those "little ball bearings" are called "cam rollers", and
are industrial standards. They are off-the-shelf parts, come in
standard sizes, and usually have a mounting stud attached.Try
contacting an indusrtial supply outlet, and see if they carry them.

Also, you might try replaceing the .010" thrust washers with Phosphor
bronze. It is "slipperyer" than steel. Standard size bronze washers
should also be available thru an industrial supplyer. If the forces
are severe, then try a switch to silicon bronze, which is harder and
tougher than the phophor alloy.

| 601|588|2008-02-29 17:38:04|warren hughes|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
You are right about 95% of the pins are not pins but wedges. But I have seen a few older guns with round firing pins. Now they are off set to hit the edge as you said and they were all older makes . It is possible to use a round pin . But I think the wedge is just much simpler and there for won out. Warren Hughes

gunrunr298@... wrote:
| 602|588|2008-02-29 18:01:17|George|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
I am very familiar with cam rollers(followers). Cam rollers
typically have a integral threaded stud which they use for mounting.
I never considered a cam roller but its a interesting thought, I
doubt they are made tiny enough for this application though. (have to
look)

A ball bearing mounted on a round stud functionally is the same.
Tiny ball bearings are common. (in this case about 5/16 OD)
As I mentioned, I have not fully studied this possible modification.
A quick look brought up concerns with the wall thickness of the bolt
and having enough "meat" to mount a round stud for the bearing.
(probably about 1/8 dia) Going to be looking into this more soon.

As for thrust bearings.... One consideration is the material that
was used for the bolt carrier. I plan on using bearing bronze. The
hard bolt against the bearing bronze carrier should make for a good
situation friction wise. A thrust "washer" wouldn't be much of a
improvement regardless of its material. Bronze, as suggested, would
be a improvement for those with a steel bolt carrier. A bearing is a
different story, much much less friction.

Thinking it over more, I am betting there is a pretty fair amount of
thrust type friction with all those firing pin springs pulling the
bolt carrier up tight against the cocking ring. Counterboring the
bolt carrier for a needle/ball type thrust bearing should be a simple
matter.

From my reading, I am pretty convinced the firing pin springs need
more energy for reliable firing. Reports say stiffer springs help a
lot BUT the gun gets too hard to turn. It is my hope that cutting
friction by using bearings for the bolt lugs (cam followers) and a
thrust bearing, the friction will be reduced enough to allow stiffer
firing pin springs and acceptable cranking effort.

Previous posts about firing pin shape are dead on accurate. There is
some excellent info on firing pin shapes in the ruger 10/22 forum.
The ideal shape is that of a ! point. Ideally the end should not be
flat/square to the cartridge rim but have a very slight taper so the
rim of the cartridge hits first. I did this on a ruger 10/22 I
customized.

The friction of the firing pin end buttons riding up in the cocking
ring groove is another area worthy of examination. Polishing, surface
finshes, and slightly rounding the sliding surface of the firing pin
button all should be optimized.

A closing thought.... "cam follower" bearings are given their name
for a reason. Their application is EXACTLY what we have in the
gatling gun. Printing presses are loaded with cams and cam
followers.

| 603|603|2008-02-29 18:11:48|George|BTW Great to finally see some activity here!!|
Hopefully the activity will stay.

I was working on my gun again last night. Its coming along nicely and
soon I will be able to crank it and watch the barrels rotate. I can't
wait!
| 604|604|2008-02-29 21:10:25|George|Firing Pin system|
Along with the firing pin spring concerns and misfires that has been
discussed, I was curious.

I am building the D&E gun. I am curious how the RG gun firing pins
are set up, how similar or different? Does the RG gun share the issue
with misfires?
| 605|584|2008-03-01 13:46:28|sarmourer|Re: issues you ran from Newbie questions|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "George" I
down
with
purpose
GOODAY GROUP.
As an avid fan of the GATLING GUN I have found this months posts most
interesting. I think that I have the operational concept straight in
my head.

SOME HISTORY OF THE MECHANICAL HISTORY IS NECCESARY.
The original concept used a organ grinder crank on the axis of the
main shaft. This proved to be too much effort to turn the firing gun.
A 90 degree gear drive eased this problem.

At the time of design the best bearings were bronze bushings. If you
look at the .22 MINI Gun the rear bearing is a Ball Bearing, which is
designed for axial thrust not longitudinal forces as exerted by
-the bolts loading and extracting
-the firing pins being cocked
-and the thrust of recoil on the bolt and cam face at firing.

The ball bearing is for axial location and forces at 90 degrees to
the axis. The critical axial location if HEADSPACE which is a
function of the REAR BEARING and the CAM RING.

The original Gatling Guns had a Rear Bearing with axial ajustment in
the Backing Plate which held headspace in check as the Cam is fixed.

The modern way of fixing axially and taking side thrust is as in the
front wheel bearings of a car "two opposed tapered roller bearings".
This is the approach that I would consider if reworking the two
0.010" thrust washer problem on my baby as the Front Bearing is able
to float axially as required.

The roller bearing on the bolt is an excellant idea but due to the
shock loadind on firing a deep grooved ball bearing or a roller
bearing would spread the load and give longer life. The cam should
be as wide as the bearing to spread the point contact of the bearing
and give longer life to both.

The rear thrust bearing presses against a bush mounting the mainshaft
gear so I would think this could be redesigned.

Just my thaughts, and I agree that the operation of the gun in my
plans is mind bogaling.

sarmourer
| 606|584|2008-03-01 14:57:39|George|Re: issues you ran from Newbie questions|
Only a couple thoughts. Tapered roller bearings although a excellent
choice would require considerable redesign because a pair would be
quite "thick" and space for them non existant. As for bearings on
the bolts, I agree with the shock loading but fortunately its only
a .22 short. I was looking for friction reducing mods that could be
very easily added without redesign. A thrust bearing could mount in
the rear of the bolt carrier with just a counterbore. 5/16 OD
bearings are available and the same size as the square blocks which
would/should not require any other changes except a stud on the bolt
for mounting.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "sarmourer" ran
had
pin
wrote:
thought
thread
I
the
left
most
in
gun.
you
is
in
the
bearings".
able
bearing
mainshaft

| 607|607|2008-03-04 04:02:47|dale detrich|Douglas Schneider -Loss of a great friend|
Subject: Douglas Schneider

Hello........I bring you some sad news.....I received a call from Elsie
this afternoon that Douglas Passed away during the night....She also
said that Doug was feeling good, and had a fine day yesterday....Elsie
also said that the last few weeks were a gift of time for both Elsie
and Doug.....As you know, both Jan and I were close friends with
Douglas and Elsie ......Douglas was a fixture at the model engineering
shows, and all will miss him.....So please have a few kind thoughts for
both , Douglas
and Elsie.....The Schneider home address is 21219
Hwy.1057.....Kentwood, La.....70444.......We will see you all
later......Jan and Dale Detrich
| 608|607|2008-03-04 05:16:49|George|Re: Douglas Schneider -Loss of a great friend|
Very sad news indeed. I talked to Elsie about a couple weeks ago and
she filled me in on Dougs condition. I was not aware he had the
heart attack, hadn't talked to him since last fall when I started
building the gun. It was a shock.

Both Doug and Elsie were the kind of people it took all of 5 minutes
to really love. He was a legend.

| 609|607|2008-03-04 06:25:10|Dale|Re: Douglas Schneider -Loss of a great friend|

Yes on the shock.........I have known Doug for 13 - 14 years,and had at least two phone calls per week..I talked with Douglas three times after he had the heart attack....Each time was a up lifting, with Doug telling me how well that he was . I built the RGG gun , that Douglas declared that I would "never"

finish....Doug was a fine machinist, and when he decided to do something (not much could stop him).....When we went to any shows the Schneider's and the Dietrich's kept company , and hunted the best food and the coldest beer.....Now Douglas does not have to hunt too far for the food and beer....Just keep track of all the good stuff, because we will be there to see you soon.....Dale and Jan......

| 610|607|2008-03-04 15:59:10|Richard Thompson|Re: Douglas Schneider -Loss of a great friend|
Very sad to hear Doug has passed, His family will be in our prayers.
Richard

| 611|588|2008-03-06 22:28:12|david bell|Re: Why taper the barrels?|
Hi
I saw this posting a little late, and did not
read all the replys, but the reason the barrels are
tapered is to mainly machine out the error of the
gundrill walking off center in the barrel. It leaves
one end of the barrel fairly true, and the other end
wherever. By using the true end at the breech, and
machining between centers the error of runout is
removed with the outside taper, and smaller diameter
of the muzzle ring area..... Dave.
--- Nick Andrews <nickjandrews@...
____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
| 612|580|2008-03-07 01:24:22|Wes S|Re: D&E Gatling gun|
On 27 Feb 2008 at 1:58, Dennis wrote:

I'm building (have most of the materials on hand waiting for spring)
a RGG. I was very saddened to hear that that the proprietor of D&E
passed recently. In the ham commmunity he would be described as
going 'silent key', in his case, silent gun.

RIP.

Wes
| 613|613|2008-03-12 03:14:51|Brian Barrett|thinking of selling my D & E Gatling Gun|
I am considering selling my partially finished Gatling Gun, I have
made the housing, all the internals minus the bolts and cams. The 10
barrels are finished which were purchased from Numrich at $12.00 each+
shipping and the 2 gears cost $48.00. I have simply lost interest in
building it and would like to find a good home for this project. I
have the complete (D&E) plans for the gun & carriage. If anyone would
be interested please email me and I will send photo's of the semi
completed gun. Basically make me an offer!!!
| 614|613|2008-03-12 04:15:56|Jason Sutterfield|Re: thinking of selling my D & E Gatling Gun|
I don't have a clue what to offer. Please send me pics and some idea of what you're looking to get for it.

----- Original Message ----
From: Brian Barrett
I am considering selling my partially finished Gatling Gun, I have
made the housing, all the internals minus the bolts and cams. The 10
barrels are finished which were purchased from Numrich at $12.00 each+
shipping and the 2 gears cost $48.00. I have simply lost interest in
building it and would like to find a good home for this project. I
have the complete (D&E) plans for the gun & carriage. If anyone would
be interested please email me and I will send photo's of the semi
completed gun. Basically make me an offer!!!

| 615|613|2008-03-12 05:17:03|Brian Barrett|Re: thinking of selling my D & E Gatling Gun|
Attachments :
I have $265.00 in it so far ( barrels, plans, gears, brass ) plus untold hours in labor. I dont really know what to ask for it either, I guess make me a reasonable offer !!!

Jason Sutterfield
hello, i'm interested in your gatling gun, please send me some pictures, thank you steve stice

Brian Barrett
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Barrett" gatling gun since i was a kid watching the old westerns! I've bought a
9" south bend lathe actually 4 of them! and a old vernon mill & jig
bore, and a enco rongfu milling machine. Now i'm wanting to build a
gatling gun in between working on my 73 mach1 and a small cannon! If
you could send me some pictures of what you have, that would be great!
thanks steve stice
| 618|613|2008-03-12 08:19:11|Harry Connors|Re: thinking of selling my D & E Gatling Gun|

| 619|619|2008-03-12 17:09:53|Dennis|Barrel question|
I have manage to get all of the bugs worked out to turn the taper on my
barrels. I am using my taper attachment with a follower rest and a
sharp vee point carbide tool. Actually I am using a carbide threading
tool. This seems to give me the best finish.

My question, are the barrels turned to .404 for the first 2" and that's
where the taper starts? If so, does this leave a ridge on the rib on
the hex part at the beginning of the taper. Or does the taper start at
the beginning of the barrel, muzzle end. If this is the case the rib
would also be tapered. Confusion is such a fustrating thing.

Thanks
| 620|619|2008-03-12 17:28:46|Brian Barrett|Re: Barrel question|
the taper starts after the 2" hex!

Dennis
I'm interested. Send me the pictures to lbp.inc@...

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Barrett"
| 622|619|2008-03-12 19:09:35|warren hughes|Re: Barrel question|
If you use carbide it will push and your barrels will shoot around corners. Warren Hughes

Brian Barrett
Use high speed steel, and use a very sharp pointed tool bit, the thin wall of the barrel will chatter like crazy if you do not.

warren hughes
I have moved the sale of the gun to another board due to lack of real
interest here. Sorry guys but I gave everyone a chance.
| 625|625|2008-03-25 20:33:06|jblayne|UNION REPEATING GUN|
I'm new here, but this group is the closest I can find to my real
interest, the Union Repeating Gun, also known as the Ager or the
coffee mill gun. I managed to find one reference on the web to
building one, from the Florida reenactors site,
http://www.floridareenactorsonline.com/agerconstruction.htm, but I
can't find any drawings. A patent number would be helpful. I have
managed to determine that the feed mechanism was copied in the 1862
Gatling, but I don't if it varies at all.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

J. B.
| 626|626|2008-03-26 02:51:12|Himart@aol.com|Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun|
A brief description of the URG: The Union Repeating Gun is unlike the Gatling in that it has only one barrel and uses Chargers in place of cartridges. The charger takes the place of the barrel's chamber (roughly a kin of a revolver). Chargers are a steel cylinder the same caliber as the barrel. One end is closed, except for a flash hole and a nipple in a recess on that closed end. It is loaded with powder and a mini ball and a cap is placed on the nipple. The chargers are placed into the hopper. The internal mechanism the crank turns could be described as a six-pointed star that positions the charger behind the barrel which is then fired by an internal hammer. The fired charger is ejected out the left side of the receiver. The problem with the gun is while firing it, the chargers jump around and get disoriented, some times jamming the rotor as the only thing holding the charger in position for firing is the other chargers above it. Change the design abit by placing a vertical magazine in place of the hopper would prevent the jam.

berge

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| 627|626|2008-03-26 03:17:10|J. B. Layne|Re: Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun|
The earliest Gatling guns (1862)used chargers and
hopper feed. The Gatling was designed as an
improvement of the Union gun, the multi- barrel design
allowing the barrels to cool, since the Union gun had
a propensity to get so hot that liquid lead would pour
out of the barrel. In the 19th Century, beating a
patent involved making changes to a basic design,
sometimes minor, but the diagrams of the feed
mechanisms of the two guns appears basically similar.
I assume that there are differences, but I haven't
been able to go beyond a few basic sketches and photos
I've been able to find. Both guns were used in the
defense of Washington during the Civil War, but the
guns were privately purchased, and to my knowledge,
used nowhere else.

____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
| 628|625|2008-03-26 03:30:43|Richard Thompson|Re: UNION REPEATING GUN|

I have a great interest in the AGER , I have spoken with Lyle about his and the Williams gun, he sent me some nice sketches and photos of the Williams a while back and I plan/hope to find enough time to build one in scale. Only info I have on the Ager is the brief paragraph or two in small arms of the world and the article you posted the link for, if memory serves it was not patented here in the US but was in a foreign country, I will dig the book out and see. If anyone has any info please share

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jblayne
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 2:30 PM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] UNION REPEATING GUN

I'm new here, but this group is the closest I can find to my real
interest, the Union Repeating Gun, also known as the Ager or the
coffee mill gun. I managed to find one reference on the web to
building one, from the Florida reenactors site,
http://www.floridareenactorsonline.com/agerconstruction.htm, but I
can't find any drawings. A patent number would be helpful. I have
managed to determine that the feed mechanism was copied in the 1862
Gatling, but I don't if it varies at all.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

J. B.

| 629|625|2008-03-26 03:38:56|J. B. Layne|Re: UNION REPEATING GUN|
Ager was a salesman for the company who filed for
patents in Europe to prevent foreign manufacturers
from stealing the design. To the best of my
knowledge, it was patented in 1855 in the U. S., but I
cannot find the inventor or the patent number

____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping
| 630|630|2008-03-26 19:38:01|Himart@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 261|
One additional thing I forgot to mention: the crank not only turns the star (previously mentioned), it also turns a cam that operates (cock and release) the hammer and the hand that indexes the star in register with the barrel (the whole operation is much like a revolver)

berge

-----Original Message-----
From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:55 pm
Subject: [GatlingGun] Digest Number 261

There are 4 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1a. Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun From: Himart@... 1b. Re: Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun From: J. B. Layne 2a. Re: UNION REPEATING GUN From: Richard Thompson 2b. Re: UNION REPEATING GUN From: J. B. Layne Messages ________________________________________________________________________ 1a. Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun Posted by: "Himart@..." Himart@... bergejay Date: Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:51 pm ((PDT)) A brief description of the URG: The Union Repeating Gun is unlike the Gatling in that it has only one barrel and uses Chargers in place of cartridges. The charger takes the place of the barrel's chamber (roughly a kin of a revolver).?Chargers are a steel cylinder the same caliber as the barrel. One end is closed, except for a flash?hole and a nipple in a recess on that closed end.?It is loaded with powder and a mini ball and a cap is placed on the nipple. The chargers are placed into the hopper. The internal?mechanism the crank turns could be described as a six-pointed star that positions the charger behind the barrel which is then fired by an internal hammer. The fired charger is ejected out the left side of the receiver. The problem with the gun is while firing it, the chargers jump around and get disoriented, some times jamming the rotor as the only thing holding the charger in position for firing is the other chargers above it. Change the design abit by placing a?vertical?magazine in place of the hopper would prevent the jam. berge Messages in this topic (2) ________________________________________________________________________ 1b. Re: Gatling gun verses Union Repeating Gun Posted by: "J. B. Layne" jblayne@... jblayne Date: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:17 pm ((PDT)) The earliest Gatling guns (1862)used chargers and hopper feed. The Gatling was designed as an improvement of the Union gun, the multi- barrel design allowing the barrels to cool, since the Union gun had a propensity to get so hot that liquid lead would pour out of the barrel. In the 19th Century, beating a patent involved making changes to a basic design, sometimes minor, but the diagrams of the feed mechanisms of the two guns appears basically similar. I assume that there are differences, but I haven't been able to go beyond a few basic sketches and photos I've been able to find. Both guns were used in the defense of Washington during the Civil War, but the guns were privately purchased, and to my knowledge, used nowhere else. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping Messages in this topic (2) ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ 2a. Re: UNION REPEATING GUN Posted by: "Richard Thompson" richard@... panaceabeachbum Date: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:30 pm ((PDT)) I have a great interest in the AGER , I have spoken with Lyle about his and the Williams gun, he sent me some nice sketches and photos of the Williams a while back and I plan/hope to find enough time to build one in scale. Only info I have on the Ager is the brief paragraph or two in small arms of the world and the article you posted the link for, if memory serves it was not patented here in the US but was in a foreign country, I will dig the book out and see. If anyone has any info please share From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jblayne Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 2:30 PM To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com Subject: [GatlingGun] UNION REPEATING GUN I'm new here, but this group is the closest I can find to my real interest, the Union Repeating Gun, also known as the Ager or the coffee mill gun. I managed to find one reference on the web to building one, from the Florida reenactors site, http://www.floridareenactorsonline.com/agerconstruction.htm, but I can't find any drawings. A patent number would be helpful. I have managed to determine that the feed mechanism was copied in the 1862 Gatling, but I don't if it varies at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. J. B. Messages in this topic (3) ________________________________________________________________________ 2b. Re: UNION REPEATING GUN Posted by: "J. B. Layne" jblayne@... jblayne Date: Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:38 pm ((PDT)) Ager was a salesman for the company who filed for patents in Europe to prevent foreign manufacturers from stealing the design. To the best of my knowledge, it was patented in 1855 in the U. S., but I cannot find the inventor or the patent number ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping Messages in this topic (3) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links <* http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/ <* Digest Email | Traditional <* http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GatlingGun/join (Yahoo! 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| 631|631|2008-03-30 17:04:36|ramseywilliam|D&E BARRELS|
I bought the prints and was looking at Richards photos of how he made
the oct. ends for them.The prints look like the barrel is one piece.I
was wanting to know why the seperate ends? This is all new to me. I'm
not a machinist
| 632|631|2008-03-30 17:56:32|gunrunr298@aol.com|Re: D&E BARRELS|

the barrels are one pc. you have to mill the ends of the barrels to get the hex shape on the end of them

Don V

Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home.
| 633|631|2008-03-30 20:02:02|walter peterson|Re: D&E BARRELS|
While on the subject of barrels...anyone have a good
sourse for barrels?

Walt

test'; "| 634|631|2008-03-31 00:26:28|jvalukievic708|Re: D&E BARRELS|
-I got mine from E-ban prior to them restriction gun parts. TRY Numrics
and OR gunbroker.com

John

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, walter peterson | 635|631|2008-03-31 03:06:48|George|Re: D&E BARRELS|
I got mine from Clark (as I recall), it was one of the sources listed
with the D&E plan documentation. They are ruger 10/22 barrels. I
got stainless. They were $25 or slightly under as I recall and they
had lots. I liked the idea of stainless.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "jvalukievic708"

| 636|631|2008-04-01 04:18:40|Richard Thompson|Re: D&E BARRELS|

I did the ends separately mainly because I am cheap. Instead of buying six bbls to shorten to the proper length I bought three and cut them in half so the bbls I used were approximately 1” to short. Making the hex shaped ends separately was the easiest way to make the bbls the correct length. I was able to clamp some short lengths of drill rod in the inexpensive hex shaped 5c collet blocks and machine the six flats very easily then silver solder them in place on the bbls. Given the choice I would have machined them directly on the bbls.

Richard

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ramseywilliam
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 11:05 AM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] D&E BARRELS

I bought the prints and was looking at Richards photos of how he made
the oct. ends for them.The prints look like the barrel is one piece.I
was wanting to know why the seperate ends? This is all new to me. I'm
not a machinist

| 637|637|2008-04-19 01:55:18|gahaodha|.22 rimfire bbl. blanks|
Numrich Arms-Gun Parts Corp. has stainless steel barrel blanks.
24 in. long, and 3/4 in. O.D. w/ 1 in 16 twist, unchambered.
see item no. 539950 Price: $35.45 each.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
view at the URL below.

http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?
chrProductSKU=539950&chrSuperSKU=&MC=
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
They also have some old Savage/Springfield Model 87 barrels,complete
and blued, but these will have sight dovetails,and mounting stud
dovetails. They would also have the shank threaded, and chambered,
probably the extractor cuts also. No O.D. dimension given. See at
URL below.
http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=089Zz87B

Good luck
| 638|638|2008-04-22 07:54:41|Pete Miles|D+E Carriage|
Got a question regarding the wheel spoke design for the D+E Carriage design.

I have been converting the drawings into the Solid Works CAD program prior to starting the
carriage construction. I have discovered that I can't create a solid model of the wheel
spoke using the dimensions shown in the drawings. For some reason the dimensions don't
add up. Has anyone else run into this?

Dale said he built his carriage with some slightly modified designs, so his is a little
different. He is going to send me some pictures of his creation when he gets them out of
their shipping containter.

I have never built carriage wheels before. From the drawings, it looks like the sides of
base of the spokes are not parallel with the sides hubs. There is a 6 degree offset. I
understand that the spokes have a 6 degree offset to them, but I am puzzled as to why this
same offset would be required inside the wheel hubs. From my point of view, when the hubs
are bolted together, the sides of the spokes, inside the hubs, will not be fully clamped
together (unless you tightened the bolts down so much that the wood is deformed).

Or am I looking at this completely wrong.

Pete
| 639|639|2008-04-22 12:36:06|pvtbon|Barrels|
This is a in question on ware the barrels for the 12 gauge gat were
found?Also what was starting out side dia.befor turning?Thank you for
your responce.
| 640|640|2008-04-24 04:07:57|Himart@aol.com|Re: Your Message to GatlingGun|
The spokes on the original carrages were make with the offset coming off the outer perimeter of the hub. This site has excelent photographs showing how the wheel and carriage is built.
http://www.buckstix.com/HowitzerCarriage.htm. The Mountain Howitzer Carriage is similar to the Gratling Gun's.

berge

-----Original Message-----
From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 1:07 am
Subject: [GatlingGun] Digest Number 267

There are 2 messages in this issue. Topics in this digest: 1. D+E Carriage From: Pete Miles 2. Barrels From: pvtbon Messages ________________________________________________________________________ 1. D+E Carriage Posted by: "Pete Miles" robots@... ajklz5 Date: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:54 pm ((PDT)) Got a question regarding the wheel spoke design for the D+E Carriage design. I have been converting the drawings into the Solid Works CAD program prior to starting the carriage construction. I have discovered that I can't create a solid model of the wheel spoke using the dimensions shown in the drawings. For some reason the dimensions don't add up. Has anyone else run into this? Dale said he built his carriage with some slightly modified designs, so his is a little different. He is going to send me some pictures of his creation when he gets them out of their shipping containter. I have never built carriage wheels before. From the drawings, it looks like the sides of base of the spokes are not parallel with the sides hubs. There is a 6 degree offset. I understand that the spokes have a 6 degree offset to them, but I am puzzled as to why this same offset would be required inside the wheel hubs. From my point of view, when the hubs are bolted together, the sides of the spokes, inside the hubs, will not be fully clamped together (unless you tightened the bolts down so much that the wood is deformed). Or am I looking at this completely wrong. Pete

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| 641|641|2008-05-02 23:36:46|dogon1013|Just joined, and posted pics of my modified RGG build so far|
A friend and I are working on makeing one based on the RGG design. I
even drew up the RGG plans in 3D.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dogon1013/GatlingGunProject

But since we have this nice laser cutter at work I decided to re-design
it so it's easier to manufacture. the carrier block is all laser cut
and the bolts are redesigned for the new carrier and do not need to be
2-piece soldered. (instead they have a flat milled on them). The
barrels are not threaded into the barrel plate, they are clamped in
with a clamp plate.

Box cam is laser cut out of pipe, and the rest of the breech casing and
recoil plate will also be laser cut.

All this laser cutting should make it cheaper. I'm also trying to avoid
using brass since it's gotten so expensive recently.

I even video'd the laser cutting of the box cam.
http://www.vimeo.com/957360
| 642|641|2008-05-03 03:10:56|Richard Thompson|Re: Just joined, and posted pics of my modified RGG build so far|
That looks very nice , please keep us updated

| 643|643|2008-05-06 14:38:40|wildguineapig|RGG Dimensions|
It's cool to see others are working on 3D models before building as
well. I've been working on a Solidworks model over the winter. I was
wondering if anyone who has built or modeled the RGG design ran into
dimensional issues at all? Specifically the chamber dimensions and in
the area of the gears, and the rear slot in the main shaft? I'm new
to SW so I still have to go back and triple check all my work. I'll
post some wallpapers in the photos section.

Thanks...
WGP
| 644|644|2008-05-06 15:24:34|casjap|Modeling the Gatling in Solidworks?|
Several guys from this forum have talked about using some sort of cad
program to model there gun before they built it. I don't have a lot
of experience with many cad programs so it's kind of over my head. I
would love to see someone model the gatling in cad and then make an
assembly, and then animate it so that people could see it work. With
different views it would be very interesting to watch. You could make
the receiver translucent, justlike you were looking through it. It
would be a great teaching aid when explaining to the uninformed how
the gatling gun works. The cad work itself would be something to be
proud of and could be a lot of fun. Anybody out there with the
ability and desire to make this happen?
| 645|643|2008-05-06 18:31:21|dogon1013|Re: RGG Dimensions|
I did notice that the slot in the main shaft seemed to be in the wrong
spot when I modeled the RGG. (I am using Solid edge). I don't remember
anything else that was off, but I didn't look too close since I
modified the desing anyway.

Recently I changed it to use cheaper helical gears.

As far as animating the assembly, I couldn't get the bolts to attach to
the box cam correctly, so I would have to do it manually which would be
a pain. I may try again later though.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "wildguineapig" was
in

| 646|643|2008-05-06 23:18:04|wildguineapig|Re: RGG Dimensions|
I had similar issues getting the bolt pins to mate to the box cam,
though to be honest, I couldn't get the box cam to be 100% accurate
anyways. Being new to Solidworks i'm pretty happy to have gotten as
far as I did...

| 647|643|2008-05-07 01:33:58|martinnossel|Re: RGG Dimensions (solid edge)|
I also use Solid Edge.

Would you be willing to share you cad files?

Martin

| 648|643|2008-05-07 02:03:05|dogon1013|Re: RGG Dimensions (solid edge)|
we could post the parasolid files, so anyone with a 3D modeler could
open them (Solid works, Solid edge, pro-E,...) But since 3D parts are
basically just like an alternate copy of a good 2D print, that would
be like posting the RGG prints online which I do not want to do,
since that design is owned by someone else.

Now if I ever get an AR-180 magazine adapter drawn-up and working, I
might be persuaded to post that.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "martinnossel" winter.
I'm

| 649|649|2008-05-10 03:58:40|dogon1013|Helical gears came in today|
Got the helical gears today, they are tiny...(everything looks bigger
in the catalog).

But I substituted the 24 pitch gears called for in the RGG planes for
the cheaper 20 pitch gears. ($56 list instead of $94 per pair from MSC)
these 20 pitch gears are a little longer and have a larger diameter
whole so you would need to modify the design to use them (shaft
bushings and longer case).

I also got some small ball-bearings which I plan on using for the main
shaft and crank shaft. Not sure if they will hold up, though.

I also added pictures of the recoil plate attached to the rear part of
the box cam.....It's starting to come together quite well :)
| 650|650|2008-05-13 00:25:38|dogon1013|Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|
I tried to join the American180 group to see the pictures of the
magazine, but no response for about a week. Anyone here have pictures
of this magazine?
| 651|650|2008-05-13 02:57:10|Richard Thompson|Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "dogon1013" some decent pics in the photos section, If not I will snap some . The
180 mag will be very easy to adapt to a gatling , the mag is flat on
the bottom and has a opening the size of the 22 cartridge. The feed
lips are on the feed block which shouldnt be needed on the gatling <
Just need a simple method of holding the mag firmly against the top of
the feed cover and the mag and winder will keep a constant flow of ammo
avail.
| 652|650|2008-05-13 05:31:49|dogon1013|Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|
Thanks,

could you take a picture of the bottom of the winder, and explain how
the magazine attaches to the gun. It looks like it slides under a
catch in the front, but I'm not sure about a catch in the middle?
Also, how does the winder work? do you load the drum first, then
attach it to the gun, then attach the winder (does it snap in), then
wind it up, or is it a pre-wound assembly before the whole mag is
attached to the gun?

why is the hole in the center of the mag that strange shape (square
and rectangle)? does it slot into something on the gun?

I will probably end up getting one of the mags to play with anyway,
but pictures and your drawings help.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" pictures
should be
The
on
<
of
ammo

| 653|650|2008-05-13 14:46:49|gahaodha|Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "dogon1013" Original Patent drawing available.
Richard Casull's Original Patent # US3319523
Has exellent views of the magazine,top,bottom,
cut-away,ect. PDF Format. Needs Adobe 8.
Saveable PDF file
Access: www.freepatentsonline.com/3319523.pdf
| 654|650|2008-05-13 15:06:54|Richard Thompson|Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|

The front of the magazine slips under a little lip and the rear of the magazine has a little tab aprox 3/8 wide that a sliding mag catch goes up over to old the magazine down.

The hole in the middle of the bottom plate fits over a key on top of the bbl to index the magazine.

The bottom of the winder is flat other than two post that fit thru holes in the bottom plate, the post stick thru the holes securing the base of the winder to the mag base plate , then the body of the winder has two spring loaded fingers that engages notches in the magazine body . The fingers are sloped and act as a ratchet so the winder can be wound in one direction and rotates the mag body in the other.

Generally the magazine is loaded , placed on the gun , the winder is snapped into place and then wound. The winder does have a lever operated brake so it can be placed on the magazine first, or a partially loaded mag can be removed from the gun but if the lever is tripped or the brake slips it will empty the magazine in a matter of seconds unless the magazine is on the gun /

The magazines and winders are really neat , I have one adapted to my 10/22 and they can be fitted to almost anything with a little ingenuity

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dogon1013
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 11:32 PM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine

Thanks,

could you take a picture of the bottom of the winder, and explain how
the magazine attaches to the gun. It looks like it slides under a
catch in the front, but I'm not sure about a catch in the middle?
Also, how does the winder work? do you load the drum first, then
attach it to the gun, then attach the winder (does it snap in), then
wind it up, or is it a pre-wound assembly before the whole mag is
attached to the gun?

why is the hole in the center of the mag that strange shape (square
and rectangle)? does it slot into something on the gun?

I will probably end up getting one of the mags to play with anyway,
but pictures and your drawings help.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" "dogon1013" should be
The
on
<
of
ammo

| 655|650|2008-05-13 15:40:12|Noel Alford|Re: Looking for pics of american 180 Magazine|
I would love to see that!

| 656|638|2008-05-14 02:55:18|David Boles|Re: D+E Carriage|
Pete,
Did you receive the answer to your spoke questions ?
I was successful in following the D&E plans.
Dave

| 657|638|2008-05-14 03:55:05|Dale|Re: D+E Carriage|

Dave.......I took a bunch of pictures and sent them to Pete with written information about 4/30.......Dale Detrich

| 658|638|2008-05-14 06:03:45|Pete Miles|Re: D+E Carriage|
Dave,

I have been unable to create a Solidwords model of the spokes as they are dimensioned in
the the drawings that I have. Looking at the spokes in photos of the carriage on the D+E
website does not match what the drawing shows.

But, thanks to Dale and the photos he sent to me, I was able to get a good idea how these
wheels look and go together. Thanks Dale. His spokes looks at lot more like the spokes
that are seen on photos/sketches of the actual carriage used over a hundred years ago.
From this, I was able to make a new spoke design that is cross between what is in the D+E
drawings and what Dale gave me.

I am hoping to be able to get to the woodworking store this weekend and get some nice wood
for the carriage and wheels. Suggestions on a type of wood? I am thinking walnut. It
would make a great contrast with the brass parts.

The past week I have been learning how to turn threads on a lathe. Never done that
before. I have always just used a tap and die. Even on the slowest RPM, the carriage is
scarry fast for 1/4-20 threads. I wonder how long it will before I crash the carriage
into the spindle.

So Dave, do you have photos of the wheels that you made? I am currious to see how they
turned out, especially since I couldn't create a CAD drawing of that part.

Pete
| 659|638|2008-05-14 15:33:37|Dale|Re: D+E Carriage|

Hello ...Pete and Dave......A quick question ....Do you have the Vari-speed drive on your machines..........If not I can give you an idea on how to handle your threading , and control your threading fears.......The original drive on my Smithy was a on & off switch, and there was "NO" in between.....The thought of "crashing " into a shoulder or the chuck is enough to bother any one.......I just went down to the shop/ basement and dough out about 11 to 13 years of history (SPOKE MAKING FOR THE GATLING GUNS)..........All that this bit of history covers is the making of the spoke as I used them on my guns......If a few of you fellows want to see how I made my stuff ( not sure how to do this), On the message board, or off thread, as a outside show and tell ........There will be a bunch of pictures .....Some written information.......Basic idea is how to cut a taper ( for the spokes)...On a 3 in 1 machine , without a taper attachment........I have to run now, So talk about how I can handle the spoke "show and tell".........It might take a day or two to go through this..........Plus I can show you the way that I handled the thread making , and take away your fears of CRASHING........Dale Detrich. please visit www.daledetrich.com    to see my guns, and other "stuff"

| 660|638|2008-05-14 15:54:45|pat|Re: D+E Carriage|
Most wheels and stuff that needed to be outside would have been made
mostly of white oak, it is strong very weather resistant, and easy to
work, red oak on the otherhand is a very poor choice for outdoors. I
assume that you will not be storing the gun outside though. walnut is
a beutiful wood, but may not lend itself to the spokes very well.
I took down a barn last year and found some black ash in it that was
really cool to, might be an interesting choice too

| 661|661|2008-05-15 04:44:57|dogon1013|added 3D pictures with American 180 mags|
just added some pictures of the solid edge RGG gatling gun with the
american 180 magazine (based on the DXF's Richard posted). it's a
little big for the RGG but it would probably work well and has a mean
look to it. It does look a little out of place on a gatling gun, still
not sure if I like it, but if it works well, that's all that really
matters.
| 662|638|2008-05-16 04:37:56|David Boles|Re: D+E Carriage|
Pete,
I do have some photo's I can post.
They are dished and did follow D&E plans.
White oak is material
1) Made a metal template for the spokes ( drew out full size ) and
rough band sawed to shape.
2) Built a fixture to sand the radius to the hub.
3) Another fixture (s) for the compound angles at the hub,
4) Assembled spokes ( with dish ) and clamped to hub, sanded outer
radius,
4) Drilled dowel hole in outer end of spoke ( another fixture ) and
provided short dowel. ( about 1/4" projection )
5) Make outer rim ( 8 segments -glue up ) , sand inner and outer
radius. Provide mating dowel hole
6) Rounded parts of spoke done last
Important : the clamping bolts at the hub , try to straighten out the
spokes, and this tensions the spokes against the rim.
i.e., if you loosen the hub clamp bolts , all the spokes will fall
out. They are not glued ( but could be )
Surprisingly the whole wheel assembly runs quite true.
Re : Threading
If you have never done it best to find a machinist to
demonstrate on your lathe.
I assume your lathe is back geared ? to slow it down ?
All of my work is on a old 1942 13" South Bend.
Best of Luck
Dave
P.S. I have seen Dale's work ... Nice !!

| 663|663|2008-05-18 05:49:33|Himart@aol.com|Gatling Gun Carriage Wheels|

http://www.maxtoms.com/8_1812Cannon.htm

The Gatling gun carriage is basically a common cannon carriage in design. The above site has many photos showing how these wooden wheels are made. A GOOGLE search will bring up many hits on building wheels or if it is your pleasure, sites that sell ready made wheels.

In a message dated 5/14/2008 2:55:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com writes:

Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food.

| 664|664|2008-06-10 18:19:18|dogon1013|AM180 magazine came today|
I just got a 165 round American 180 pan magazine in today. It looks
nice and should make a perfect Gatling gun magazine since it does not
have any feed lips. It's very easy to load but 165 rounds does take a
while. It looks a little big for the gun but as long as it works, I
will be happy.
| 665|664|2008-06-10 18:41:17|Richard Thompson|Re: AM180 magazine came today|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "dogon1013" drum .

You shouldnt have any problems getting it to work , there is/was a
company here in the US selling a 22lr gatling gun that used the
american 180 drum , I got to fondle one at the shot show about 4 years
ago ,here is a link to their website
http://www.bwefirearms.com/gatling.html
| 666|664|2008-06-14 22:51:58|dogon1013|Re: AM180 magazine came today|
I haven't got the winder yet. I might try to make my own so I can
spend the $75 on another mag. I got the mag mount figured out and I
will post pictures soon. I am impressed with the AM180 magazine, it's
very smooth and easy to load.

BWE firearms isn't to far from where I live, I wonder if they have a
showroom.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" looks
not
take a
I
the
years

| 667|667|2008-06-20 13:05:36|ramseywilliam|bolt & firing pin steel|
what type of steel are the bolts made of?
what type steel are the firing pins?
thanks bill
| 668|668|2008-06-25 01:33:40|dogon1013|Found a tripod at a great price, it should work.|
I found a contractors tripod that should work as a gatling gun tripod
for $42 http://www.toolup.com/cst-berger/60-alqci20-o.html

They make a heavier duty one for a little more money but this one
should work. it has nice big spikes to help anchor into the ground.

PS I used 4140 or 1095 for most of the critical parts (includeing
firing pins). it's heat treatable and pretty common.
| 669|669|2008-06-26 14:43:34|Vincent Ricci|Box Cam|
Does anybody have a cnc mill w/ the 4th axis to cut the box cam? I have a
3 axis cnc bridgeport but no cnc rotary table yet. if so I would be interested in
at least 3 box cams maybe more..
Vinnie
| 670|670|2008-07-03 03:28:06|dogon1013|Crank handle size ?|
I've been looking at the crank handle for the RGG plans and it just
looks too big to me. (4.625" from axis center to handle center).

anyone shorten or lengthen the handle, or is it pretty much the right
size?

PS I might be able to laser-cut some box cams when I get some time, but
all available free time now is going to my gatling gun....Sorry.
| 671|671|2008-07-21 23:58:57|bty198668|Thanks|
Hi all , l was in this group what seems like ages ago, but ill health
then putor trouble l sort of lost you , but am back and am getting
ready to start my build from the drawings a very kind member sent me
of the `1900 30cal colt model, l was going to be brave and build it
full size, but to be honest it will have to be a half size model,can
cope with that size on my machines etc, and the other down side for me
is that because of our gun laws in the uk my gattling will have to be
happy firing blanks, still its the building of one that will keep me
happy and l hope l dont have to bother you people to many times when l
get stuck on the build , but thanks for letting me back in , will now
go and try and catch up on the old posts.
regards wes
| 672|672|2008-07-22 00:57:12|mp_44_collector|Gatling prints 22cal|
Anyone in the group have a copy of Construction Blueprints
for a .22Cal Gatling gun...I am also looking for a set for a .22cal
1919A4 if anyone has a set of them too...thanks..shawn
| 673|551|2008-07-22 07:26:11|GuyW|Firepower magazines|

I'm reluctantly selling my full set of Firepower magazines (April '84-Jan '89, 28 issues). $400 OBO

This includes the Sept '84 issue with the article on building the .45 Minuteman SMG.

-Guy-

| 674|551|2008-07-22 15:45:47|Richard Thompson|Re: Firepower magazines|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "GuyW" Minuteman SMG.
Thats a pretty good price, I have struggled with thoughts of selling
mine also
| 675|675|2008-07-22 22:40:09|bty198668|picture|
Hi all ,any one got a decent picture of the front barrel plate of a
1900 gattling please.
wes
| 676|676|2008-07-26 03:40:57|dale detrich|I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|
Hello all....I need help to locate the crank driven worm gear, and
the driven gear that rotates the barrel assembly.....I went back
through my list of parts that used to make my D & E ......I was
finishing my D & E gun in 1997, and my memory does not remember that
good......SO if you received your worm gear (crank), and the driven
gear (barrel assembly) and still have the gear #, and where to buy
the gears, PLEASE let me know. and I will pass it along to a GGun
builder from Australia...He was not able to locate the gear pair, and
asked me see if I could locate the parts.....Thank you now for the
information
Dale Detrich
| 677|676|2008-07-26 04:32:17|Dennis|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|
Hi Dale,

I have not yet purchased my gears by the driving gear is Boston Gear
NSH-201-OAL and the driven gear is Boston Gear P/N NSH-202-OAL.

Dennis Hardin

| 678|676|2008-07-26 04:39:34|Richard Thompson|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|
Attachments :

Hi Dale I will try to dig mine out in the morning and get the part number, all I remember off the top of my head is the part # in the plans didn’t match anything we could find , But the number Doug gave me when I called was a browning# and they cost aprox $25 each at Motion Industries online .

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dale detrich
Sent: Friday, July 25, 2008 9:41 PM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear

Hello all....I need help to locate the crank driven worm gear, and
the driven gear that rotates the barrel assembly.....I went back
through my list of parts that used to make my D & E ......I was
finishing my D & E gun in 1997, and my memory does not remember that
good......SO if you received your worm gear (crank), and the driven
gear (barrel assembly) and still have the gear #, and where to buy
the gears, PLEASE let me know. and I will pass it along to a GGun
builder from Australia...He was not able to locate the gear pair, and
asked me see if I could locate the parts.....Thank you now for the
information
Dale Detrich

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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| 679|676|2008-07-26 04:44:44|Dale|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|

Dennis...Thank you for the comback, but the numbers given on the ggun information does not match anything that Boston carries.......Dale

| 680|676|2008-07-26 05:08:03|Dale|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|

Hello Richard....thank you for your comeback.......We should recognize ( by now ) that the drawings part number is not right......I did dig out my paperwork from 1993, and found the gear sheet that I used in my D&E gun.......I now have a (Bad scribble) part number of B/G H2418.......I ran the number on a Boston site, and they do have a gear of the same number.......(cost is $39.66 ).......AND THE BEST NEWS IS THAT THE GEARS ARE BACKORDERED........So it will be very nice to have an alternate place to order the gears.....

The other gear B/G H2412 is recognized and has the price of ( $33.22) , and same as the other gear, it is backordered.......The place that I am getting my B/G numbers is Bearing Distributors Inc.............So it look as if you can supply a "good" number, it will be one less thing that we had to do to get the part that we need..............Thanks again......Dale Detrich

| 681|676|2008-07-26 18:55:15|Dennis|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|
Hi Dale,

I guess I ( now ) recogniize the part numbers in the plans are
correct but are not Boston Gear part numbers. Since you tried to
limit response to your question to people who had already purchased
and received their gears I should not have responded. Two mistakes
and so early in the year. However, if you go to
www.motionindustries.com and enter the part numbers I listed and
select Browning as the vendor rather than Boston Gear you will find
the gears. The one is $29.97 and the other one is $24.97.

Since I should have known this I searched the past posts and found
this information which Richard posted in 2004.

Dennis

| 682|676|2008-07-26 22:39:45|Dale|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|

Hello Dennis.........Thank you for the gear information.....I have tried to use the search part of the www.motionindustties. com and put the NSH-201-OAL Number, then used Browning as the vender, and there was no match.....Not sure what was going on ??? You are getting a match with the above ??   I guess that I still need help........Thank you   Dale Detrich

| 683|676|2008-07-26 23:32:31|Dennis|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|
Hi Dale,

Try NSH-201-0AL. Note that the 201-0 are numbers i.e. it is zeroAL.
This is the search criteria. Select serch by " Manufactures Part
Number" and Select Manufacture as "Browing".

If that still doesn't work try by item numbers 00368616 and 00368595.

Dennis

| 684|676|2008-07-26 23:38:04|Dale|Re: I need help to locate the crank worm gear and driven gear|

Dennis.......Thank you again..........I was using the 0 as a letter, and now I will try it the other way...I thank you again for your help......Dale Detrich

| 685|685|2008-07-26 23:52:03|Richard Thompson|proper gear part numbers|
Hi Guys , I just dug out the spare set I ordered thru motion industries
and they were sourced thru Boston Gear , not Browning as I had
previously posted.

Here are the part numbers directly off the packages containing the
correct gears

Larger gear Boston Gear # 18246

Smaller gear Boston Gear #18234 under that H2010l

I just cut and pasted both # in at motion industries and both are in
stock the large gear is $28 and the samll one is $23

Hope this helps Richard
| 686|685|2008-07-27 00:11:58|Dennis|Re: proper gear part numbers|
Dale, you should use Richards numbers since he has the gears and has
built the gun. I may call MI on Monday to see if these are identical
gears from differnet sources if they can tell.

Dennis

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" industries
in

| 687|685|2008-07-27 00:50:25|Dale|Re: proper gear part numbers|

Dennis and Richard........Thank both of you for the information and help in finding the part numbers for the ggun drive gears......I will keep the information in hand for the next person that will need it.....I met and got to know Douglas Schneider about 14-15 years ago, and we talked quite a bit during the building of my gun.....At the shows ( Cabin Fever and NAMES ) , we Doug, Elsie , my Jan, and myself were almost as one during the time of the shows.....Doug and I were always in touch with each other down through the years, and we miss him .....Dale

| 688|685|2008-07-27 01:07:37|Ken|Re: proper gear part numbers|
Ditto on the thanks here too!

Mr Schneider and I were not on a first name basis but when ever I
called, it was always a pleasant conversation, never felt like I was
intruding or being rushed. His Wife was alway pleasant when she
answered as well.

Ken

| 689|685|2008-07-27 01:23:25|Ken|Re: proper gear part numbers|
Ditto on the thanks here too!

Mr Schneider and I were not on a first name basis but when ever I
called, it was always a pleasant conversation, never felt like I was
intruding or being rushed. His Wife was alway pleasant when she
answered as well.

Ken

| 690|690|2008-07-29 21:06:13|bty198668|Tripod|
Can any one of you please let me no the dimensions of the gattling
guns tripod as l want to scale one down an make a 1/4 scale of one,
many thanks if you can help me here .
regards wes
| 691|691|2008-08-01 13:59:32|Vincent Ricci|Yoke|
Where do you get the Yoke material for thr GG, I have 5" round HRS to
make it out of. I would like to use a DOM of CRS,12L14or HRS to make it,
which would save a lot of time instead of boring the 5" to the proper wall
thickness.
Vinnie
| 692|692|2008-08-13 14:22:53|ramseywilliam|2" brass pipe for sale|
I have a 2"x11.5" piece of brass pipe for sale if someone needs it for
the D&E GUN. $50.00 plus shipping. You can get two receivers out of it.
THANKS BILL
| 693|693|2008-08-18 18:44:02|ramseywilliam|making bolts for D&E gun|
I would like to know how to make the bolt for the D&E gun by machining
them from one piece as Richard did? I am new to using the mill. I have
a milling machine not enough know how. Thanks Bill
| 694|693|2008-08-21 22:35:42|bty198668|Re: making bolts for D&E gun|
Yes l would find that most intresting to no that as well please.
wes

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "ramseywilliam" machining
have

| 695|693|2008-08-22 03:25:48|David Boles|Re: making bolts for D&E gun|
Although possible to machine a bolt from solid stock, I found it equally effective to solder and pin the lug onto the bolt surface. The load on this lug does not require that the entire bolt be one piece. The end results with the soldered lugs were very successful. Other builders have also successfully used this approach , which requires much less machining.
   Good luck in which method you choose !
Dave
On Aug 21, 2008, at 4:35 PM, bty198668 wrote:

| 696|693|2008-08-22 05:05:23|Richard Thompson|Re: making bolts for D&E gun|
Hi Dave , How have you been ?

I would agree its much easier to silver solder the lugs in place. If
I were doing more I thats the way I would go , alot less material to
remove and a lot faster. I did the one piece ones on a cnc mill
which made it alot easier .
I started by turning the bolt body to diam other than a ring where
the lug was created.
If I were to mill the lugs as one piece manualy I would setup the
bolt body in a collet standing verticaly on a rotary table under the
spindle . It would be best to make a map of your tool paths something
like start at x0y0 , move table to x** , rotate table ** degrees ,
move rotary back to original position , move to x0 , lower z axis .01
and repeat until you have milled away everything thats not the lug .
You might be able to plunge the tool without leaving the work piece
but you will probably get a little chatter.

Once you have cut deep enough to cut what will be the lug it will
have a little crescent on each side and you can set it up with the
lug sticking straight up , then take an end mill and run down each
side to sqaure up the sides.

If you have a decent size rotary table I would set it up with a 4-6"
vice or cast iron angle plate on the face and put the bolt blanks in
a 5c collet block , this way you can stand them up vert , machine
around the outside , then turn it horizontal and sqaure up the sides
all in one setup in the collet block .

| 697|693|2008-08-22 13:33:14|william ramsey|Re: making bolts for D&E gun|
Thank you for explaining how to do it. I think for me I will make the bolts with the soldered recoil lugs. I look at my bolt action rifles and thought that silver soldering the lug wouldn't hold up under the constant recoil but this is a 22 short. Bill

| 698|698|2008-08-28 20:20:22|Dennis|Gears for the DE Gun|
I finally got over to my local Motion Industries office and ordered my
gears. What I found out is that Browning Gear NSH 201 0AL is the same
as Boston Gear 18234 and that Browning Gear NSH 202 0AL is the same as
Boston Gear 18246. Since the Boston Gears are cheaper, that's what I
ordered. I was actually told, "That I would get the same Boston Gear
regardless of the part number ordered".

Unfortunately, the gears shipped direct from Boston Gear and they
shipped the wrong part number. I had to take the one back and have it
replaced. MI then charged me 16.31 shipping for the replacement gear.
Needless to say, I got a refund on that charge. Actually they were very
good about it but I would have never known it if I would not have check
the charges to my credit card. Total cost of the gears including
shipping and taxes was $53.40.
| 699|698|2008-08-30 05:28:40|CHRIS P BYRNE|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|

Dennis. What type and caliber gun are you building? I have not been to the forum lately but I am thinking of starting another gun project this winter. Any info on plans and your expirence so far is appreciated. Chris.

| 700|698|2008-08-30 05:39:29|Bobby Romero|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|
Does anyone know where I can get plans for the .22
gatling?
--- CHRIS P BYRNE <cbcues@...
GatlingGun@yahoogroups.comGatlingGun@yahoogroups.com Otterbob
Hunt Master
Sharpshooter
All Around Great Guy
(you're lucky to know him!)
| 701|698|2008-09-02 18:58:46|Dennis|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|
Hi Chris.

I am building the D&E gun in 22 short.

I started with the carriage just to get some experience with the
plans and for me. I am not a machinist so it is all a big learning
experience. I am about 75% complete with the carriage and maybe 20%
with the gun. I have found the plans to be good. I originally
purchased a paper set and later bought a dvd set from Doug. It took
me four or five years to get my shop set up. I really just got
started last winter. I am getting more motivated as things are
starting to take shape.

Since Doug passed away I don't know what will happen with his plans.
I don't think his ad was in the last HSM.

| 702|698|2008-09-03 07:16:22|CHRIS P BYRNE|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|

Thanks for the reply. I am very interested in building one. When I started looking I found the group but there was no activity. I saw some people were talking about plans that did not add up properly. ( holes in wrong places, ect...) Have you seen anything like that?

If you like your plans I will try to order a set myself. Thanks Chris.

| 703|698|2008-09-05 02:18:44|David Boles|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|
  Chris,
   Keep going and don't give up !
   Several of us have successfully built the D&E version.
   I met and spoke to Doug several times and his passing will is a loss.
     Some of us have completed the carriage and some have built the tripod version.
   The RG plans are not quite as authentic , but probably have more builder support.
   Determination will help you complete the model , because it is a BIG project.
   If you get stuck ,I am sure you will here from several of us.
   Good Luck
Dave

On Sep 3, 2008, at 1:15 AM, CHRIS P BYRNE wrote:

| 704|698|2008-09-06 21:57:07|bty198668|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|
Keep going chris am certain people in the group will help if you get
stuck, least members are your side of the pond that helps, l am in
the uk and dont think theres any one else trying to build one over
here that l no of, l am not using the d&e plans , l am using full
size colt drawings and then scaling them down, its going to be hard
but will keep hanging on in there, so dont give in .
wes

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, David Boles the
have
is
us.
Good Luck
Dave
I
saw
properly.
that?
Thanks
learning
20%
took
plans.
wrote:
been
project

| 705|698|2008-09-06 22:43:52|Dennis|Re: Gears for the DE Gun|
Hi Chris,

I have found the plans to be okay. Have not found any major errors. I
found that no were does he account for fit, ie a .750 hole for a .750
shaft. No real problem once you know it. I also find that he doesn't
make good use of stock. I mean a part .504 is hard to make from half
inch stock. Other than that I have been satisfied. Maybe some of the
folks who have completed the gun and are really machinists have some
comments.

I am leaving Tuesday for two weeks in the Colorado Rockies elk
hunting and will not have interent access so if I don't respond that
is the reason.

Dennis

| 706|706|2008-10-26 21:28:26|bty198668|News|
Any one got any updates on there projects , l now have got enough
material to hand to make a start on mine, thats taken longer owing to
the silly price of things now, hope the price of steel drops a bit
soon, is it the same acroos the pond?.
wes
| 707|706|2008-10-27 01:17:21|David Boles|Re: News|
Wes,
   Good Luck on your build.
   Let us know if we can help with any tips from our experience with the build.
Dave

On Oct 26, 2008, at 3:28 PM, bty198668 wrote:

| 708|708|2008-11-23 04:58:10|George|D&E gun, top hinged cover, no dimensioned drawing in plans?|
I have been working on the D&E gun and was looking at the plans the
other day, in particular the hinged top cover that holds the magazine.

There are 2 drawings on the CD, one for a EDM version the other a
soldered up version, NEITHER has any dimensions for the actual curved
cover. There are drawings for the sub assembly parts (hinge, mag
holder etc) but nothing but the un-dimensioned assembly drawings for
the curved cover.

Am I missing something here?
| 709|708|2008-12-22 20:01:03|Dennis|Re: D&E gun, top hinged cover, no dimensioned drawing in plans?|
Hi George,

I was waiting for someone who has already completed the gun to respond
but it looks like everyone is off the group. I have completed the
carriage, barrels and will finish the housing tomorrow so I have some
experience with the plans. I actually printed all of the drawings from
the CD and made up a book.

The assembly drawings are near the end. The top cover assembly drawings
are GG2114 for EDM version and GG22117 for soldered version. Those page
numbers are in the lower right hand box to the right of the words PART
No. The actual dimensional drawings are pages numbered GG2249S 1 of 3
and 2 of 3. Hope this helps. Have you made the cams?

Dennis

| 710|708|2008-12-22 20:17:08|George|Re: D&E gun, top hinged cover, no dimensioned drawing in plans?|
Actually, I later found the dimensioned drawings. Like a dummy, I
missed the fact there was 3 pages to that pdf file and only had
looked at page 1.

I have the barrels, rings etc all assembled, the housing, frame
rails, crank, and a few other parts done. The cams are mounted on my
rotary table from last winter, that is where I left off. I should be
cutting the cams in the next week or so. For me, the gun is a winter
hobby, in the garage. Last year I cnc'd my bridgeport which sure
makes a lot of the parts a lot easier. I have a rotary table set up
as the 4th axis and used that to cut the hex shapes on the barrels
and now the cams. I also used it for the brass cam that oscillates
the gun.

I look forward to finishing the gun in the coming winter months. I
have been learning Cad/cam which is a real riot for those 3d parts
such as the top cover.

| 711|708|2008-12-22 21:01:47|Pete Miles|Re: D&E gun, top hinged cover, no dimensioned drawing in plans?|
Dennis,

I am in the carriage building phase. I am curious about how your wheels
turned out. How did you make the spokes? Per the drawings or did you
modify them?

This has become a really slow process for me since my 2 year old daughter
seems to be sucking up all my free time.

I got all the bolts made for the wheels, have the material for the hubs.

Dale, have given me lots of help on the wheels he has done. I am just
currious to how you did yours.

Pete

| 712|712|2008-12-25 10:10:16|harley573|D&E, oscillator assembly|
I am working on building a digital model of the .22 gatling gun from
the D&E plans. As I am modeling the components, I am starting to
figure out how this thing works. What I am still failing to grasp is
the purpose of the oscillator assembly. What is the function of this
assembly? Thanks in advance for your responses.
| 713|708|2008-12-25 15:34:17|Dennis|Re: D&E gun, top hinged cover, no dimensioned drawing in plans?|
Hi Pete,

I followed the plans for the wheels, however I am not sure the result
exactly matches the plans but I am happy with them.

I cut blanks for the rims, milled the angles on the ends, and drilled
the spoke holes and rim bolt hole. I then glued them together using a
strap clamp. I made a circle cutting jig for my band saw and used it
to cut the rim OD. I just cut the rim ID on my jigsaw and sanded.

The spokes were a little tricky for me. I cut blanks and milled the
angles on all four sides of the hub end. I then located, drilled and
glued a piece of 1/4" dowel in the rim end. I made an adapter for my
Shop smith to hold the milled hub end in the headstock and a second
adapter to hold the 1/4 dowel rim end in the tail stock. I made full
size drawings and traced on two sides of the spokes and used the band
saw to rough cut to size. I then used the Shop smith to turn the
final size. I made mine from walnut and found it much easier to turn
less and remove more with the band saw. The one thing that I did not
do was offset the tailstock when turning to final size so my spokes
are a little thinner than they should be but I like them. They look
more like a surrey wheel than a caisson wheel so I guess you could
say mine is a little on the feminine side.

I milled the stuff since I don't have a good table saw but do have a
RungFu mill that does a great job on wood. I also used it to do all
of the work on the tongue. It was easy to get exact angles for the
rim and spoke pieces and to inlet the tool box and elevation adjuster.

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Dennis

| 714|712|2008-12-25 16:08:29|Dennis|Re: D&E, oscillator assembly|
The oscillator assembly had me scratching my head for a while. I think
what it does is move the gun from side to side and you turn the crank
thus causing a fanning effect otherwise every shot would hit in the
same spot.

| 715|712|2008-12-25 16:09:51|George|Re: D&E, oscillator assembly|
It makes the gun swing back and forth, left and right, as it is being
fired to pan a area in the firing path. It can be disengaged to allow
manual left/right aiming.

| 716|716|2008-12-25 16:11:41|Dennis|Cams?|
Is anybody out there set up to cut the cams on a 4 axis cnc and willing
to sell a couple of sets?
| 717|716|2008-12-25 18:04:14|harley573|Re: Cams?|
Dennis,

I have the Tormach CNC mill. They have recently come out with a lathe
setup that attaches to the mill table. A lathe tool holder attaches
to the spindle nose for this setup. However, I have been curious to
see how this would work in a "live tooling" setup, using an endmill in
the spindle. I am planning to purchase the lathe setup in the next
month or so. If I can get it to work as a 4th axis to cut the cams,
I'll be happy to run and sell extras. However, it may be a few months
before I have the lathe and have it all figured out.

| 718|718|2008-12-25 19:50:21|pat|how cams origenally made???|
how where the cams made/machined in the origenal guns, they didnt have
cnc. just wondering if anyone knew how it was done, and how hard it
would be to do now
| 719|718|2008-12-25 22:24:44|George|Re: how cams origenally made???|
They had machines that would follow a pattern shape cutting the
duplicate in metal.

| 720|718|2008-12-26 00:22:26|Richard Thompson|Re: how cams origenally made???|
If memory serves they were cast into the rec body.

I machined mine on the 4 axis mill, wasnt to bad , I will look and
see , I think I made a couple of spare sets

| 721|721|2008-12-26 20:01:07|Himart@aol.com|Re: Digest Number 303|

In short: in the 1800's hammer mills, stamping machines, lathes, drill presses and lots of filing. Jigs and standards were made for the parts to be produced to help the mechanics and machinests. Men like Colt, Whitney, and Pratt perfected mass production and the machinery needed in making the various parts. Prior to electricity, the large machines were run by water wheels and later steam power. Smaller machines were powered by foot treadle. The way things were made changed little even when electricity became available to run machines. There are a number of books detailing how things were made and for my tastes, they are very interesting reading and give you a foundation as related to what you are doing today. You get to understand how incremental changes and improvements in materials; and techniques in casting; and so on made for better products.

berge

In a message dated 12/26/2008 11:21:39 Eastern Standard Time, GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com writes:

One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now.

| 722|722|2009-01-01 22:36:25|Dennis|Final assembly today|
I uploaded a couple of pic's of my completed carraige. I can now fully
concentrate on completing the gun. Have the barrels and housing
complete so its on the the cams and bolts.

Happy New Year to All!
Dennis
| 723|722|2009-01-01 22:53:06|Richard Thompson|Re: Final assembly today|
Hi Dennis, thats a really nice looking carriage , I am very glad to see
folks uploading more pics of their progress . Looks like Toby's RG-G
hybrid is coming along nicely also. Happy New Year

| 724|724|2009-01-16 01:56:09|George|D&E gun, pan....... measurements not working out!|
I am getting ready to mill the pan with a 4th axis cnc. I was drawing
the part in cad/cam and cannot get the dimensions from the print to
work out!

The 3 angled areas are shown as 0 deg, 10 deg, and 40 deg. The cut
depth on the 0 deg section is .218. The endpoint of the angled
sections in the X plane is shown as .276 and .603 on the "detail 12"
drawing included with the printed instruction set. In the printed
instructions there is no mention of the Z depth for the 3 segments
but "detail 12" shows .218 Z depth for the flat 0 deg section.

I cannot get the numbers to work! The last angle comes out at 26 deg
if I make the x/y endpoints as shown. If I make the angles as shown,
the x/z endpoints come out wrong.

Hopefully someone here that has done this part cnc can tell me what I
am overlooking.

Help!
| 725|724|2009-01-16 04:29:53|Ken|Re: D&E gun, pan....... measurements not working out!|
Hi George,
I'm not that far yet, what is the file number and I will take a look.

Ken

| 726|724|2009-01-16 05:18:27|George|Re: D&E gun, pan....... measurements not working out!|
Its G2212 drawing. The pan is also described in the typed
instruction sheets and a printed drawing called "Detail 12".

One angle is 40 degrees on the drawings yet described as 50 degrees
in the typed instruction sheets.

Studying the drawings further, it appears the round OD of the blank
gets flats cut after the grooves are milled in. There is not much to
go by for depths on the grooved channel other than the one .218
dimension and not clear if that is from the OD of the round blank or
the flat that is milled on later.

I just can't get the numbers to jive when it is drawn in cad/cam.

I ran into similar when cutting the internal cams but figured that
out. A angle on the cd drawing and also in the printed instructions
was rounded up in one case and down in the other to even degrees.
Cad/cam does not like that sort of thing.

| 727|724|2009-01-16 14:59:56|sarmourer|Re: D&E gun, pan....... measurements not working out!|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "George" George,
From my experience with CNC CADCAM the start point should be to set the
parameters. These tolerances greatly effect blending points. eg
rounding a vector etc at 0.0000" can mean that two points mismatch by
as little as 0.00002" and that throws up an error.

Check the roundong off settings and tolerance on blend points.

I dont know what system you are using and its been a while.
Philip Scott
| 728|724|2009-01-16 15:34:02|George|Re: D&E gun, pan....... measurements not working out!|
Hi Phillip,

The problem I am seeing is not a cad issue, its one of a gross error
somewhere in the dimensions I am using. We are taking a angle of 40
deg that comes out at 26 using the line endpoints. Its the old
computer saying of garbage in/garbage out. I am either reading
something wrong or missing something.

the

| 729|729|2009-01-17 05:02:23|George|D&E gun pan... found the issue|
I found why the angles/ dimensions were not working out. That drawing
called "detail 12" in the printed instructions show the pan WITH the
rimstop installed, that changes things. Knowing the rimstop is
installed makes the dimensions work out perfectly. I cut the feedramp
grooves in the pan today. I just have the flats around the OD (shown
as 24 degrees on the print) to do and the pan is done. Those flats
were confusing me some so I left them until tommmorrow.

Only a very few parts left to make before I can start doing functional
testing.
| 730|729|2009-01-17 05:35:06|Ken|Re: D&E gun pan... found the issue|
Good to hear you figured it out !

"That drawing
called "detail 12" in the printed instructions"

I do not believe I received that booklet, how many pages is it ?
Up to now have spent most of my time creating Cad Solid models of the
components and have not looked into the actual construction.

Ken
| 731|731|2009-01-18 22:14:22|George|Created album and uploaded pics of D&E gun progress|
I just made a album and uploaded a couple pics of my progress on my
D&E gun. I started the project last winter and didn't work on it at
all over the summer.

After starting the project, I sidetracked to converting my bridgeport
series 1 machine to cnc which took a lot of time away from the gat gun
but sure make a lot of those parts a lot easier. My shop is in the
garage of my house and only used for hobby use. Learing cnc and
cad/cam has also been a experience but well worthwhile.

The blank for my bolt carrier is shown in the pic with a ball thrust
bearing in place instead of using the ground flat washer shown in the
plans. I did this to make the gun crank easier after reading how some
had to increase the firing pin spring strength and the gun then became
hard to crank. There is a loose thrust bearing also in the pic so
people can see what it looks like.

I have a lot of parts done and the point of test firing is now withing
sight! The gun has been a real learing experience for my machining
skills and in learing cnc / cadcam as well.
| 732|731|2009-01-23 03:12:56|Dennis|Re: Created album and uploaded pics of D&E gun progress|
Hi George,

Thanks for the pictures. Looking good.

I was at the Cabin Fever Show in York,PA last week and talked to a
number of people about the D&E gun and the basic comments were the
same. It has some basic design flaws that keep it from working. The
major problem being the force required to compress all of the firing
pin springs. The thrust bearing helps. This problem however is
exaggerated by the fact that the firing pin does not really hit on the
rim of the bullet. To compensate for this, a larger firing pin and
more force than would otherwise be required if the pin actually hit on
the outer rim edge are used in the design. The fix for this was to
place a square end on the firing pin so it can not rotate in the bolt.
This permits the end of the firing pin to be ground smaller so only
the outer edge is left and less force is required.

Hope all that makes sense. I am very interested in hearing how your
testing goes. I think I saw a video of Richards gun actully being
fired, so it is possible to get it to work. Perhaps he can give us
newbies some advise.

I have not got back to making my cams. I hope to start next week.

Dennis

| 733|731|2009-01-23 14:11:36|George|Re: Created album and uploaded pics of D&E gun progress|
Hello Dennis ,

I'd sure like to see the activity in this group pick up.

I got another reply by direct email from someone who is also
building the gun (2) with a friend. They are at the firing/debugging
stage and also did mods on the firing pin issue. He applied to this
group and wants to post pictures but has not received group approval
and its been a while.

I was aware of the firing pin issue from by research / reading. I
already plan on making the firing pins non-rotating and with the
correct shape on the end. I have not decided on the exact method I
am going to use just yet. The thrust bearing was to make it easier
to crank and may be mandatory if stiffer springs are needed.

I wish Richard would post a youtube video of his gun firing. With
all the D&E plans sold, I have never seen a gun actually fire. Ditto
with the RG gun except they have some clips on their website. Not a
single video of the gun firing is a somewhat scary thing. Even
reports of attempting to fire the gun are rare, just search this
group!

I wish there was a way to get this group alive again. Now that Doug
is gone (The designer of the D&E gun) there is no source for help to
those building it.

George

| 734|734|2009-01-24 00:55:22|George|Is this list abandoned?|
I received another email today from another person that requested
membership over a month ago. This is 2 people that would like to join
and never were answered.

Is the group still alive? I know posts are few and very far between.
| 735|734|2009-01-24 01:54:48|Dennis|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
Hi George,

It's real frustrating. I am also building the gun with a friend (2x)
and he had a very hard time getting into the group. He tried a couple
of times and finally got approved. I think Richard is the moderator
and he is just very busy.

If you do a search on YouTube for .22 cal Gatling gun you can view a
couple of videos of the gun actually being fired. Some are of the
10/22 type but some look to be the D&E gun.

Dennis

| 736|734|2009-01-24 04:17:29|George|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
I don't think any of those on youtube are the D&E gun from what I can
see. One is a european gun (the green one) that I beleive is sold
as a complete firing gun. Another one might be the RG gun. The D&E
gun is a 1874 replica, the ones on youtube are different year
versions.

Its about time to see a D&E gun on youtube. If nobody beats me to it
I will surely post mine when its completed. (hopefully over the
winter)

| 737|734|2009-01-24 04:52:11|Darren|Re: Is this list abandoned?|

According to the member list the Group Owner's (Richard) messages are being bounced, so the Group may have been abandoned.

No moderators either, so it doesn't look good for anyone trying to join.

Darren

| 738|734|2009-01-24 06:21:44|Robert Dickson|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
Well if the mail keeps bouncing on RIchard much longer. We may need to
reform the group. I myself don't post that often but I do read what
comes through. If someone decides to do it I will adjust my
subscription.

Personally I hadn't decided which gun to build. My original plan was
to see how others faired with the available plans. Thus far it seems
most folks have a certain amount of trouble. Now I admit I haven't
purchased either of the plan sets so I may do one of my own design
from the original prints I found on this group. I know the RG and D&E
have their faults and I wondered how much direct support is available
for either. If it's mostly

I myself am thinking of doing the gun in 9mm just because I have a
cache of 9mm barrels in my stocks right now. The debate for me is how
I should go about feeding it. Or perhaps instead of 9mm I might do it
in .38 Spl to make the traditional feed types needing fewer changes.

Has anyone here tried to build a centerfire gatling?

| 739|734|2009-01-24 13:10:43|George|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
The way Yahoo groups are handled, there is no reforming. Yahoo
leaves total control up to the group owner (moderator) and does not
get involved in any way. There is a machining forum on the net that
I believe the owner of this group belongs to, I will see if I can
locate/contact him there.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Robert Dickson
D&E
available
how
it
are being
to join.
(2x)
couple
moderator
view a
the
requested
to join
between.
after
away.

| 740|740|2009-01-24 13:44:13|George|Found a contact for the moderator|
I found a contact for the moderator here and sent a email. We will
have to wait and see what happens.
| 741|734|2009-01-24 14:21:19|colonelcsmc|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
I joined about two months ago with not too much problem. I haven't
seen anyone on the site in a while. I am working on a replica Civil
War Era coffee mill gun.
| 742|734|2009-01-24 16:39:18|Dennis|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
I took a closer look and I guess the green gun isn't the D & E. I know
at one time I saw a video of Richard's gun being fired. I thought it
was on his web site but I can't find it again. With his talent I am
not sure why he messes with this group anyway. Check out his web site
at www.thompsonmachine.net. He has a lot of picture of his build under
hobby projects.

| 743|734|2009-01-24 16:52:59|George Mouer|Re: Is this list abandoned?|

I remember quite a while back on the group I asked about the D&E gun firing and Richard told me he tested his gun for feeding/extracting but has never fired it and did not plan to.   I believe he wanted it for a static display and leaves the firing pins out.    I was very surprised by that. I would have thought it would have been test fired before going to static display.

| 744|734|2009-01-25 01:00:54|David Boles|Re: Is this list abandoned?|
George,
  I have completed the D&E with full carriage and have fired it as well.
   However, more work is needed to get it to fire reliably. ( sort of a matter of fine tuning ! )
   I spoke to Doug about this many times before he passed away.
   Visually the gun is spectactular , so most people that get it to fire at all then promote it to a "display" piece.
  The issue mentioned with the firing pin location and firing spring force are the key to reliable firing.
   ( .22 ammunition with a more sensitive primer would also solve the relability issue )
   One good way to make the firing pin non rotating , so the striking end may be shaped, is to use 4mm key stock.
   You can buy a 4mm square key broach and broach the existing brass threaded plug in the bolt end.
   The 4mm key stock can be turned down on one end and a button soldered on for "pull back " and the other end can be threaded for the spring adjuster.
   That same end can then be drilled and a tool steel pin soldered in place that will be the firing pin.
   Now the firing pin can be shaped as desired and will not rotate as it is cocked.
   I hope this helps .
   Good Luck
Dave

On Jan 24, 2009, at 9:52 AM, George Mouer wrote:

| 745|734|2009-01-25 04:23:47|George|Dave: Firing Pins|
Thanks for taking the time to post Dave!

Your method with the 4mm square key stock is one that I read about.
Was the 4mm broach expensive or hard to find? Did you shape the
ends in a wedge shape like the conventional 22? Your pins sound
heavier and I would think it would need stiffer springs to get that
weight moving fast enough, what did you use for springs?

Are your firing pin strike issues resolved? What other reliability
issues do you need to address? This sort of info is what myself and
other builders need so we can pay extra attention to the details that
matter the most.

I too talked with Doug a few times, what a fantastic guy he was!
With Doug gone the need to share info is more important now than ever.

Thanks!

George

(sorry about the ton of questions but inquiring minds what to know)

| 746|746|2009-01-25 04:26:57|George|Highest post count (monthly) record in 2 years may fall!|
It looks like the post count for a single month may exceed anything in
the last 2 years this month! And that is with a few new members
waiting to get in, one built with a friend and both guns are firing.
He has pictures to post too.
| 747|734|2009-01-25 18:28:11|David Boles|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
George,
   After completing all the firing pins ( non rotating ), I have only experimented with a couple to verify their operation.
   I have made a lot of different springs and with the non rotating firing pins , you need to be no more than a couple thousands diameter larger wire than the plans show.
   The cranking force will build up exponentially with the firing pin wire diameter.
   As you say a wedge shape was used in the radial direction of the shell case.
   This may sound strange , but I moved on to other projects after making the firing pins non rotating, without actually shaping all of them. I had spent about 800 hrs on it and was ready for other projects.
   ( a 1/3 scale 1841 Mountain Howitzer ! )
   Plan to go back at a later date and do the fine tuning on the Gatling
   The broach came from Travers Tool ( made by Hassay Savage )and yes it was expensive , around $120 as I recall. I tried to make one at first , but not an easy task and did not work in the end !
   The weight of the pins is slightly greater , but also would have more momentum when firing.
   I think the biggest weakness of the design is the small drive shaft ( cranking shaft ) the requires even smaller gear drive pin. This gear cross pin will shear if the firing pin springs are too strong. I used non heat treated drill rod for this and  I am sure heat treating this pin would help. Next thing to break would be the crank cross pin. Be sure to pin the barrel block , pan and bolt carrier together... not shown on my plans. You have a mess if these move in relation to each other.
   Other issues are feeding without jamming. Although feeding works well, a jam can cause a mess as you are cranking.
   Cabello's sell dummy .22's that are great for testing the mechanism.
   A jam with live ammo is exciting as several firing pins will be cocked or in the process there of !! Sort of like playing with grenades with the pins pulled ! ( how to unjam ? )
   Actually just to obtain smooth cranking with the bolts in place was a major accomplishment for mine. Everything has to be super smooth and polished internally.
   Then when the firing pin spring pressure is added , sort of have to start all over again with the smoothing.
   I found a black magic marker worked well to determine where the internal contact points were. CNC may do better than my complete manual machining.
   I know Richard and he is much more of an expert ( and better machinist ! )than me on the Gattling.
Good Luck
Dave

On Jan 24, 2009, at 9:23 PM, George wrote:

| 748|746|2009-01-25 20:39:45|Richard Thompson|Re: Highest post count (monthly) record in 2 years may fall!|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "George" apologies, been busy at work and not watching emails like I should,
should have everyone approved and ready to go
| 749|746|2009-01-25 22:32:04|Pete Miles|Re: Highest post count (monthly) record in 2 years may fall!|
Well, I will chime in then. I haven't been posting much since my progress
is slow. We have a 2 year old at the homested. She is a huge time sink. I
did finally get an indexing head last week so I can finish making the hubs
for the carriage. I am doing the carriage first. The D&E axle is going to
pose a challenge on my 7x14 mini-lathe. I might break that down into three
parts, a center square bar with the ends drilled and tapped for the turned
ends for the carriage wheels.

Pete

| 750|734|2009-01-28 02:13:49|Dennis|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Hi Dave,

Any chance you could post some pictures of the modifications to the
firing pins and bolts?

Thanks
Dennis

| 751|734|2009-01-28 04:41:09|hakj3|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Dennis,

If interested I also came up with a solution to the firing pins. With out going into to much detail I ground a flat on the bottom side of the pin put a set screw in the to keep the pin
from rotating. If interested I did post some pictures in the gallery of the modified pins
and the bolts. I have testified the gun with stronger springs and a modified firing pin tip.
It fired almost all of the time. I ran into extractor problems which I am working on a
solution.

Kirby

| 752|734|2009-01-28 17:35:07|Dennis|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Hi Kirby,

Thanks for the information. I looked at the pic's but really couldn't
see much. I do think your approach seems like an easier and more
straight forward fix. Did you wind your own springs? If so, what
diameter wire did you use.

I was kind of in the dumper when it sounded like this design was
flawed beyond working, not that I plan to shot chipmunks in the back
yard with it, I was hoping for a working model. As big a pain as the
brass is to polish and keep that way, I don't want to touch it after
it is done so I am sure I won't want to shot it much. I am thinking on
ways to protect the brass and have been leaning to plating it. Will
decide later.

Dennis

| 753|734|2009-01-28 20:36:14|hakj3|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Dennis,

The springs that finally worked were Lee Springs purchased from MSC. O.D. .300, .032
Wire, 1.75 Long. However if you don't modify the front of the firing pin and keep it round
you will have to use much heavier springs. When the heavy springs are used things break.
I suggest that you pin the crank handle to the Shaft and make the bolts out of 1 piece of
steel. The silver soldered bolts will not hold up the lugs will come loose. I speak of this
from experience.

Kirby

| 754|734|2009-01-28 21:06:02|RICHARD THOMPSON|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Attachments :

And as Dave mentioned everything has to be polished very well. Richard

From: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com [mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of hakj3
Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 1:36 PM
To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [GatlingGun] Re: Dave: Firing Pins

Dennis,

The springs that finally worked were Lee Springs purchased from MSC. O.D. .300, .032
Wire, 1.75 Long. However if you don't modify the front of the firing pin and keep it round
you will have to use much heavier springs. When the heavy springs are used things break.
I suggest that you pin the crank handle to the Shaft and make the bolts out of 1 piece of
steel. The silver soldered bolts will not hold up the lugs will come loose. I speak of this
from experience.

Kirby

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Dennis" David Boles other
make
!
drive
are too
would be
bolt
if
playing with
to be
I read
shape the
pins sound
springs to get
springs?
reliability
what
the
guy he was!
important now
what to
David Boles reliably. ( sort
passed away.
that get it
"display" piece.
and firing
would also
, so the
the existing
and a button
other end can be
steel pin
will not

| 755|734|2009-01-29 08:22:52|Dale|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|

Hello Dennis.......You were talking about keeping the brass clean.......My guns are almost 10 years old, and they are still bright and shiny.........From the time that they were new, I started using a liquid that was named Gibbs gun oil.......I take both of my guns to several shows each year, and at the shows I allow people handle the guns....The first thing that I do after I get home from the shows is to wipe the guns off and then put a very wet coat of the Gibbs liquid.....I go over the brass, wheel rims, and even over the wood parts of the guns.........I bought a quart of the Gibbs liquid almost 10+ years ago,and I have a small amount of the original liquid left......I am very satisfied of the way that it works.......It can be found at www.gibbsbrand.com ,...........I do not have any Gibbs stock, I am just a end user..........Please take a look at my guns in the photo section.....thanks.........Dale Detrich

| 756|734|2009-01-30 00:12:19|hakj3|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Dennis,

I didn't wind my own springs on this project I have before when a special spring was
needed. When ever I can I use off the shelf and in this instance I used off the shelf
springs.

Lee Springs - .300 O.D. - .032 Wire Dia. - 1.75 Long (PUrchased from MSC)

Hope this helps

| 757|734|2009-01-30 02:08:38|David Boles|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Dennis,
   Attached is a photo I took of the new firing pin.
   Apologies for the poor focus.
Description :
   A - standard D&E round firing pin
   B - 4 mm square firing pin, (end of shaped firing pin is ground to wedge shape -hard to see) , after installed in bolt to assure orientation to shell casing.
   Note threads are cut directly on key stock.
   Firing pin itself is soldered into 4mm key stock.
   Opposite end is turned down and button soldered in place for " pull back".
   Red traces are lay out dye.
   C - another square firing pin before opposite end was turned down for "button ". Tip has not ben shaped.
   D - "pull back " Button
   E - poorly shown , but D&E brass bolt plug , broached to 4mm square. Also two small holes for wire "spanner wrench " removal.
   F - brass firing pin parts per D&E drawings.
   G - one of my wound springs
Hope this helps
Dave

On Jan 27, 2009, at 7:13 PM, Dennis wrote:

| 758|758|2009-01-30 02:51:55|Dennis|THANKS!!!!!!|
Wow, it's great to exchange information and I want to thank Dale,
David, Kirby and Richard for all the great guidance. Since we have not
yet made our bolts and firing pins you have saved me a great deal of
trail and error work and time that you have already worked through.

Dave, your picture was great. It shows up in my email message but if I
go the the group site and view the post your picture is not there.
Maybe you can post it in the photos section so it is available
permanently. It really helped me understand what you have done.

I finished my barrel ring yesterday and am getting together with my
friend tomorrow to review all this good information and determine our
next step.

Thanks Again!
Dennis
| 759|734|2009-01-30 05:47:31|Dale|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Attachments :

Hello Dave and Dennis......It has been a few years ago that I built the 1874 D&E gun......And reading the messages that have been on the board brings back some of the things (problems) that I had while making the bolts for the gun......First I made the lugs for the bolt, and located them, drilled and tapped a 2-56 screw to locate the lug, silversoldered them into place and turned the front and back surface of the lugs, then hand cleaned the side of the lugs.....Have had no problem with the lugs.......Firing pins.......I used the body of

commercial sewing machine needle for the firing pins....Dia. was .080 drawing was for .086 dia. needles.....I drilled and reamed the front of the impact pin to receive the .080 pins, and then silversoldered the pin into the impact pin......I thought that the smaller pin dia. would strike the round with a bit more force......I had a very good line up of the firing pin and round, so the round pin worked OK...... After assembling the gun, and getting the gun to turn over and dry firing the bolts and pins (no switch to turn the firing pins off like the RGG gun)....I am looking into the bolt area, and I am seeing the firing pins starting to "grow", and start to project into the area in front of the bolts......I checked what was going on, and found that the force of the inertia pin hitting the end of travel, and the pins were free to go , because there was no round in the chamber....The impact was breaking the silversolder bond between the impact pin and the firing pin.....The firing pin was so smooth that the silversolder was not able to make a strong bond...The fix was to take the loose firing pin out and using a tool post grinder and a .024 thick cut off wheel and grind a few grooves about .010 deep on the end of the firing pin that was in the impact pin when was assembled.......The grooves gave the silversolder a place to bite into and gave the joint enough strength to withstand the impact.......Dave.......In your writing , you are saying that you are soldering the pin into the impact pin....I was wondering if you are using a softsolder or silversolder ???? That was what started me remembering the firing pin problem, so I thought that I would bring it up to possibly saving you the same problem.........The only problem with firing that I had , was solved by grinding a cone (smaller contact area) on the end of the firing pin.........Thanks for your time...Dale Detrich.....Doug S. was a fine long time friend of mine, and I miss him very much......

| 760|734|2009-01-30 06:30:57|David Boles|Re: Dave: Firing Pins|
Dale,
   As you know there are MANY different alloys called "solder ".
   The solder I used was made by Kapp Alloy and wire. ( Oil City ,PA )
   It is 95% Tin, 5% silver, KappZAPP 5S
   Used their Copper Bond Flux
   This is a high strength solder , with melting point about 100DegF higher than regular tin/lead solders.
   It really works well. Highly recommended.
   If you use true "silver solder" solder or silver brazing alloy you have to be real careful soldering brass.
   Brass is copper and zinc and they can separate near the melting point of the silver solder. ( if your not careful )
   Silver solder does work well on plain copper and steel alloys. ( my experience ! )
Dave
On Jan 29, 2009, at 10:47 PM, Dale wrote:

| 761|734|2009-01-30 15:12:46|George|Re: Dave: Firing Pins / Silver solder|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, David Boles Brownells (mailorder gunsmith supply) had two alloys and a liquid
flux. The one alloy is hi-strength and has a higher melting point.
So far, I have only used the hi-strength for parts that would see a
lot of stress. Gunsmiths silver solder frequently, like the rib on
a shotgun barrell or attaching sights.

alloy
melting
alloys.
Dave
| 762|762|2009-02-04 17:16:27|Vincent Ricci|pins and brass|
A suggestion and a question. Most of you probably know this but if
you google ejector pins you will find a good way to buy fireing pins. I
saw them for about $4.00 each with no or very little modification. I
got 10 sometime back w/ a hardness of about R 70 or so ( I think ). As
for the brass, I'm looking for brass pipe 3.25" od x 3.00" id x 3.00"
length. tried speedy metals and metal express they get close but no
cigar. Just for conversation I made jigs to machine the fireing pins
from tool steel and the jigs really save a lot if time and are very
accurate. As soon as I figure how to post pics from my IBM thinkpad I
will do so.
Thanks vinnie
| 763|762|2009-02-04 19:11:00|Dennis|Re: pins and brass|
Hi Vinnie,

We got our brass for the housing and the large piece for the yoke from
Cleveland copper and brass. Not cheap but they had what we needed. You
can contact them at 216 373 7900.

Dennis
| 764|762|2009-02-04 19:37:24|Richard Thompson|Re: pins and brass|
I have some of the smaller diam tubing suitable for the D+E housing I
will sell off if needed , not the larger size you need unfortunatley

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Vincent Ricci" if
I
As

| 765|762|2009-02-04 19:50:52|Dennis|Re: pins and brass|
Richard,

I may have to remake my housing since I clamped it wrong when I
soldered the rails on and it ended up a little egg shaped. What do you
want for the housing tube. Also, did you ever check on the extra cams?
You can email me off group at dhardin@.... Thanks Dennis

| 766|766|2009-02-05 20:31:33|Himart@aol.com|Gardner Machine Gun|

I would like to build a Gardner Machine Gun, but I need plans. Does anyone know where to get plans or have plans for a Gardner Gun? I have found a number of sites on the web that show pictures and such, but no plans. Any help would be appreciated.

berge

Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499.
| 767|766|2009-02-05 23:22:06|Robert Dickson|Re: Gardner Machine Gun|
I would suggest you start with Patent searches. I don't know of anyone
who has made prints but at least the Patent drawings will be a place
to start. Then I would see about contacting some museums to see if you
can find one who has one in their collection to examine and
photograph. You might get lucky there, however as far as I know the
Gardner's are very rare indeed and offhand I don't know where any are.

I suspect to build one you will end up making your own plans.

| 768|766|2009-02-05 23:49:51|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Machine Gun|
Check with Joe at Gardnergun.com he has a very nice working scale
model. He is a member here . Maybe if enough of us harras him we
could get plans and a set casting

| 769|766|2009-02-06 00:50:48|Jason Sutterfield|Re: Gardner Machine Gun|
Link doesn't work.

| 770|766|2009-02-06 01:08:30|Richard Thompson|Re: Gardner Machine Gun|
http://www.gardnerguns.com/

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, Jason Sutterfield Any
3258x1201191827/ aol?

| 771|771|2009-02-07 13:07:14|ramseywilliam|working D&E GATLING GUN|
I have been working on the D&E gun. I'm learning a lot about my
machines and am very slow. Making about everything two times to get it
right. My question is does anyone have or seen a working gun? I mean
one that will fire with out jaming. This is what I want to make.
Thank You
Bill
| 772|771|2009-02-08 20:35:23|Pete Miles|Re: working D&E GATLING GUN|
My purpose for the gun is for nothing but pure intimidation purposes.

Some dads polish the shotgun when the guys come to pick up their daughters
for that special date.

I will be sitting on the porch polishing my gatling gun.

Pete

| 775|771|2009-02-10 00:58:11|Dennis|Re: working D&E GATLING GUN|
Hi Bill,

It sounds like you and I are on the same page. I started with the
carriage and have made many parts at least twice. I made two sets of
rims for the wheels before I got them right. I forgot I needed a
little extra wood for trimming. I have learned a lot and find it goes
faster the more I try and do. However, I have come to the conclusion
that the basic design of the D&E gun is seriously flawed. The main
shaft is two small, the firing pins are not positioned correctly and
the design can not handle the firing pin spring tension. I have the
barrels and housing done but I think I will have to redo the housing
since it distorted when I soldered the rails. I clamped it across the
housing because I was afraid of messing up the internal threads and
when I heated it, it turned to butter and ended up a little egg
shaped. So, I think I have decided that if I can use the barrels from
the D&E gun on the RG-G gun I may just change and use the carriage
from the D&E and put the RG-G gun on it. From everything I can read on
the blogs it appears that the RG-G gun is a better more workable
design. Since all I really have done for the gun is the barrels it
shouldn't be a big deal switching over. The barrels on the RG-G are
only 10 1/2 inches long but I should be able to modify the design or
shorten the barrels. I know Dale has built both and I think he has
said he shot his but I am not sure. Kirby seemed to be making some
progress with the modified firing pins but I still have doubts about
the shot ability of the design. I have been waiting for someone else
to answer but all's quite so I decided to give my 2 cents.

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "ramseywilliam"
| 776|771|2009-02-10 05:52:51|hakj3|Re: working D&E GATLING GUN|
Hi Bill,

I have completed all the parts for the gun and tripod and am polishing and engraving.
Function is definitely an issue. Parts need to be modifiyed for the gun to work properly. I
think I have ironed them all out but won't know until reassembly. I have the plans for the
RG&G gun some things are better and some are worse. There is more gignerbread on the
D&E gun and in my opinion looks better. That said the inner workings of the RG&G mainly
the firing pins, bolts and extractors look to be a better design (I bought both sets of
plans). It is a toss up I guess. I don't know of anyone who has made a RGG gun and fired
it.

Kirby

| 777|771|2009-02-10 06:36:36|Dale|Re: working D&E GATLING GUN|

Hello Kirby.............I have a firing RGG , after aprox 200 hours of rework.....Nice drawings , but a lots of things were bad.....But I was working off of about 11 years old drawings.......I do not know how today's drawings are for being good.......In the old drawing set there was a lots of bad information.........Dale

| 778|771|2009-02-10 13:37:01|william ramsey|Re: working D&E GATLING GUN|
I am going to also get the plans for the RGG gun. Checked there web site and they sell working guns.All is not lost because I too am working on the carriage and think it can be used on the RGG gun. Thanks for your replys

Bill

| 779|779|2009-02-16 17:09:28|Vincent Ricci|polishing|
I just got a used tumbler to polish my RGG parts.I was wondering
what medium I should use to polish Brass and the 12L14 steel that I use
for much of the internal parts. I friend of mine gave me a Hass 5c
indexing head which after I cleaned and fixed it up works great. I am
trying to hook it up to my cnc Bridgeport to make the cams. If anybody
can help I would appreciate it.
Vinnie
| 780|779|2009-02-16 18:19:57|Richard Thompson|Re: polishing|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Vincent Ricci" use
anybody
Man what a score on the indexing head , Is it an older dc brush type or
one of the newer brushless ac ?
| 781|779|2009-02-16 18:48:20|Vincent Ricci|Re: polishing|
- Richard
The Hass is a 150 oz/in synchronus motor. When i looked at the
motor itself, no brushes.
Vinnie

-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Richard Thompson" wondering
I
5c
I am
type or

| 782|782|2009-02-18 21:09:12|dvdorner|Gravity fed magazine|
Has anyone made any type of gravity feed magazine for a rgg or d&e
gun? I have a computer pic of a gravity feed type slot on the breech
casing of a gat gun, just wondering if it can be done on a small gun.
| 783|782|2009-02-18 22:21:16|George|Re: Gravity fed magazine|
The D&E gun plan is a gravity magazine, with a weight as a follower.
There is no spring. Do you mean a drum or other hicap type?

| 784|779|2009-02-19 22:17:54|Richard Thompson|Re: polishing|
Well thats good, should be fairly easy to find a drive on ebay , like
the ultra3000 that should do what you want . Can be used with just
about any ac servo motor and will except a variety of inputs

--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Vincent Ricci" the
great.

| 785|785|2009-02-28 16:34:12|Vincent Ricci|broadwell feed|
does anyone have the dimensioned drawing for a broadwell feed that fits the RGG gun. I
will pay for it.
Thanks Vinnie.
| 786|785|2009-02-28 17:15:25|Dale|Re: broadwell feed|

Vincent.....The drawings for the Broadwell feed can be ordered from the people that sell the plans.....Douglas Schneider the designer (passed away almost one year ago to the day), Doug's wife Elsie is now selling the plans.....I would guess that if you got in touch with Elsie, and tell her that you have the plans and would like the plans for the feed she would take care of your needs........Dale Detrich

http://www.modelgatlinggunplans.com/                  telephone-985-229-8160

| 787|787|2009-03-02 16:00:08|Vincent Ricci|Broadwell feed|
DALE:
Thanks for the feed back. Will the D&E plans fit thr RR plans? I have the D&E plans but I
think some of the parts have to be redisigned to fit the R&R gun.
Vinnie
| 788|788|2009-04-10 02:56:15|mckuhensteve|d&e gatlling gun|
I just received my approved membership. I resently re-started my gun
project and also began using a computer again. I have read all the
posts in this group. I could have written all of them as I have had the
same troubles. I have made several posts on the gatchat at
gatlingguns.net. I wanted to check spelling but I do not see an icon.
| 789|788|2009-04-15 17:36:22|Richard Thompson|Re: d&e gatlling gun|
Welcome aboard, we have had a l;ot of new members join in the past few weeks, hopefully a few will drop in and say HI

| 790|790|2009-04-15 19:13:57|Jerry|hello - new member working on a D&E|
I've been working on a D&E version in 22 short since last September. I have the luxury of having two CNC mills, a lathe and a CNC lathe in my basement so some of the parts took only a few minutes. I am waiting to start some of the larger parts like the pan and bolt carrier until I get my new, larger, rotary table converted to CNC.

I think I understand from a few of the threads that the firing pin and spring combinations might not give reliable service. I had one idea that I noticed someone else tried in that I would leave a center-drilled cone in the end of the pin for reduced contact area and higher PSI. Also, I was thinking that the cocking ring could be modified so that the capture part of the ring has a pitch like a screw to add a little more draw for the pin. Lastly, variable pitch springs could be used so that the tension increases more near the fully-extracted position of the pin. This would reduce the overall tension on the un-cocked bolts and pins and have less stress on the cranking system.

As far as the bolts, I was planning to silver solder or TIG weld the cam followers onto the bolts but now I am thinking about just CNC milling the back part of the bolt and cleaning-up the rest on the lathe.

I know most of you have much more experience than me but thought I would pass along the following for those that don't. If silver solder joints are coming loose as some commented, you might not be leaving enough clearance for the solder. The mating parts should have a gap of .001"-.002". For close-fitting parts, someone told me to use a spring-loaded center punch around the mating surfaces thereby raising the surface and providing area for the solder to flow. Parts should also be pickled in 10% sulfuric acid immediately prior to soldering. Avoid applying heat directly to the joint and solder. Heating from the opposite side with small pieces of solder rested in the joint and/or held with flux near the joint seems to work best. Silver solders have wide liquidous ranges and a good balance between strength and heat distortion seems to be with solders that are liquidous at 1300-1350 degrees. I only purchase solder in the 1/16 wire range. Sometimes it helps to flatten it with a hammer.

Anyway, I hope I can contribute to this group. As I work towards the more complicated surface parts I will gladly share the G-code for those with CNC.

Jerry
| 791|791|2009-04-16 02:16:29|Gene Carlson|New Member|
Hello,

Just got approved for membership...

My name is Gene and I'm a former "gun plumber" who spent 4 years (1972-1976) in the AF working on the M-61 20mm cannon. Since then, I've always had a soft spot for the gatling gun.

I'd love to build one but I don't have access to a machine shop. Also, the $11K RGG wants for a completed gun is more than a little out of my price range. So I guess I'll have to settle for watching and listening to you guys build yours.

I look forward to seeing more photos of completed and firing guns in the near future.

Gene
| 792|791|2009-04-16 16:22:00|Jerry|Re: New Member|
Well, Gene, it looks like it is me and you. I also just joined as you can see from the note just above yours. I am about 10% done after about 7 months though I am paying particular attention to details, fit, finish, etc.

Jerry

| 793|790|2009-04-17 14:00:56|Eddie Slone|Re: hello - new member working on a D&E|
I have just started a gun but am not very CNC savvy. I have a small Harbor Freight mill that i have comnverted to CNC and am in the process of learning. Any G Code files will be greatly appreciated. Right now am interested in small part so i can compare what i write and someone who knows how to write G Code. Would like to see G Code for Trunyon Strap. This looks like a very complicated part to make due to all the radius cuts. Any G Code will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks: Eddie

From: Jerry
I've been working on a D&E version in 22 short since last September. I have the luxury of having two CNC mills, a lathe and a CNC lathe in my basement so some of the parts took only a few minutes. I am waiting to start some of the larger parts like the pan and bolt carrier until I get my new, larger, rotary table converted to CNC.

I think I understand from a few of the threads that the firing pin and spring combinations might not give reliable service. I had one idea that I noticed someone else tried in that I would leave a center-drilled cone in the end of the pin for reduced contact area and higher PSI. Also, I was thinking that the cocking ring could be modified so that the capture part of the ring has a pitch like a screw to add a little more draw for the pin. Lastly, variable pitch springs could be used so that the tension increases more near the fully-extracted position of the pin. This would reduce the overall tension on the un-cocked bolts and pins and have less stress on the cranking system.

As far as the bolts, I was planning to silver solder or TIG weld the cam followers onto the bolts but now I am thinking about just CNC milling the back part of the bolt and cleaning-up the rest on the lathe.

I know most of you have much more experience than me but thought I would pass along the following for those that don't. If silver solder joints are coming loose as some commented, you might not be leaving enough clearance for the solder. The mating parts should have a gap of .001"-.002". For close-fitting parts, someone told me to use a spring-loaded center punch around the mating surfaces thereby raising the surface and providing area for the solder to flow. Parts should also be pickled in 10% sulfuric acid immediately prior to soldering. Avoid applying heat directly to the joint and solder. Heating from the opposite side with small pieces of solder rested in the joint and/or held with flux near the joint seems to work best. Silver solders have wide liquidous ranges and a good balance between strength and heat distortion seems to be with solders that are liquidous at 1300-1350 degrees. I only purchase solder in the 1/16 wire range. Sometimes it helps to flatten it with a hammer.

Anyway, I hope I can contribute to this group. As I work towards the more complicated surface parts I will gladly share the G-code for those with CNC.

Jerry

| 794|790|2009-04-17 20:48:49|Jerry|Re: hello - new member working on a D&E|
Eddie, I recently started the trunion cover, I assume that is what you mean by strap. I designed it in Catia and plan to cut it on its side. The dimensions he gave on the drawing don't match exactly if you assume the various arcs intersect at tangents which I did for smoothness.

I will post the code in the files section in a few days, maybe even today.

You will need a block of brass .75 thick by .75 X 1.875. They way I cut these parts is to glue the block to a piece of aluminum with superglue. Loctite Blue works the best or Zap a Gap. Run a face mill across the aluminum after supporting it on parallels. You then want to cut grooves into it, not that deep, only enough for air to get under the part to help set the glue. Clean-up the grooves so that the surface is flat, clean mating surfaces with acetone, put glue on the part align it and then drop your headstock down onto it to clamp if for an hour or so, sometimes it only take 10 minutes but I like to be sure. You will find that mounting parts like this for CNC avoids problems with tabs and clamps and gives you a much better overall finish.

Once you cut the part, you then heat the back of the aluminum with a torch, the glue softens and the part will fall off. Since the glue doesn't handle side loads very well, you will find that I take a lot lighter cuts at high speed. If the part gets warm while you are cutting it, it might come loose so keep some coolant around while cutting. A spray water bottle is fine for a small mill. If you can't touch the part with your finger it is too hot and you risk melting the glue.

I used turbocad for years to draw 2d outlines offset from the part for cutter paths. If you are using Mach3 you can import the resulting DXF files directly into Gcode.

Turbocad can be purchased inexpensively at most computer stores. You just need the basic model.

Jerry.

| 795|790|2009-04-26 14:58:54|Eddie Slone|Re: hello - new member working on a D&E|
Thanks for the code and the info on setting up part. Some of the code wont run on my mill but i see what you have done and am changing some of the code to work for me. This helps.

Thanks: Eddie

From: Jerry
Eddie, I recently started the trunion cover, I assume that is what you mean by strap. I designed it in Catia and plan to cut it on its side. The dimensions he gave on the drawing don't match exactly if you assume the various arcs intersect at tangents which I did for smoothness.

I will post the code in the files section in a few days, maybe even today.

You will need a block of brass .75 thick by .75 X 1.875. They way I cut these parts is to glue the block to a piece of aluminum with superglue. Loctite Blue works the best or Zap a Gap. Run a face mill across the aluminum after supporting it on parallels. You then want to cut grooves into it, not that deep, only enough for air to get under the part to help set the glue. Clean-up the grooves so that the surface is flat, clean mating surfaces with acetone, put glue on the part align it and then drop your headstock down onto it to clamp if for an hour or so, sometimes it only take 10 minutes but I like to be sure. You will find that mounting parts like this for CNC avoids problems with tabs and clamps and gives you a much better overall finish.

Once you cut the part, you then heat the back of the aluminum with a torch, the glue softens and the part will fall off. Since the glue doesn't handle side loads very well, you will find that I take a lot lighter cuts at high speed. If the part gets warm while you are cutting it, it might come loose so keep some coolant around while cutting. A spray water bottle is fine for a small mill. If you can't touch the part with your finger it is too hot and you risk melting the glue.

I used turbocad for years to draw 2d outlines offset from the part for cutter paths. If you are using Mach3 you can import the resulting DXF files directly into Gcode.

Turbocad can be purchased inexpensively at most computer stores. You just need the basic model.

Jerry.

| 796|796|2009-04-26 23:29:44|harley573|Questions about the D&E gun|
I have constructed the entire gun in SolidWorks and have been trying to understand how all the parts work together to make this gun fire. Can anyone explain to me how the "bolt carrier", "breech ring" and "pan" are locked together so that their bores remain in alignment? I'm assuming this is the intention since it looks as if the barrel assembly needs to rotate as a unit. Also, what function does the "cascabel plug" serve? In my model it appears to be too long as it is interfering with the aft portion of the firing pins. Any insight that can be provided to clear up my admittedly limited understanding of this machine would be greatly appreciated.
| 797|796|2009-04-27 00:16:13|David Boles|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
Harley573,
   You are correct the bolt carrier, breech ring and pan , must be pinned together.
   Of course it will operate without doing this , but you risk slipping of the 3 pieces.
   I used 1/8" drill rod. Drilled from the barrel end to the rear.
   Leave perhaps 1/8" sticking out ( to the front ) so the pin could be removed later.
   This pinning should only be done after the action is confirmed.
   Not sure why the plans don't show this , but this pinning was confirmed to me by Doug.
   The cascabel plug allows you to remove the bolts , one at a time , after the gun is assembled.
   The cascabel plug should not prevent the bolts from rotating. Need to trim the length.
Good Luck !
Dave

On Apr 26, 2009, at 5:29 PM, harley573 wrote:

| 798|796|2009-04-27 03:27:56|harley573|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
Dave,

Thanks for the quick response. I, too, am surprised that the pins are not shown in the plans, but am not surprised to hear that the parts need to be pinned. I couldn't see how it would work any other way. Also, on the front shaft, did you machine some kind of wrench flat to use for tightening the shaft down? I'd also be interested to hear what other problems you have run across in building this gun... ie, other stuff that isn't in the plans?

| 799|796|2009-04-27 05:06:39|hakj3|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
Harley 573,

I didn't pin my assembly and it has not moved. I also tightened the parts with gas tubing. If I were to do it over again I would make the main shaft 1 piece and add a key to keep things straight and make the main shaft 1 piece. It is very hard to get the hole assembly to rotate evenly because it is three parts and every time it is assembled and reassembled the shaft lines up a little different. On the real gun the main shaft is 1 part, there is no reason why this gun cannot have a one piece shaft. There is more than enough material.
Thats my 2 cents good luck.

Kirby

| 800|796|2009-04-28 03:36:40|David Boles|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
Harley573
  I did not use the flat on the main shaft. Not a bad idea if you can hide it.
  I used a protective aluminum sleeve and vise grips. Crude but worked without scarring the main shaft.
  Of course there are many challenges in this build.
   Some , such as conversion to a square firing pin , have been outlined in past replies. ( hopefully you can go back and reference these ? )
   For me biggest issue ( with all manual machining ) was to get all the bolts to operate smoothly . There was a lot of hand fitting, polishing involved.
   Also , I liked the high temperature soft solder ( 5%silver, 95% tin ) much better for me than the true silver solder recommended. It is more than strong enough.( I have also explained my experience in past replies)
   I visited the Colt Museum in Hartford and examined the real thing in detail.
   In some ways I think it would be easier to build ! Parts are just larger.
   The D& E is a very good replica of the original and you will be proud of your finished example.
Good Luck
Dave

On Apr 26, 2009, at 9:27 PM, harley573 wrote:

| 801|796|2009-04-28 05:45:11|mckuhensteve|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "harley573" | 802|796|2009-04-29 03:08:58|mckuhensteve|Re: Questions about the D&E gun|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "mckuhensteve" | 803|803|2009-05-09 22:02:15|mckuhensteve|d&e gatling gun|
I have made several cutters for the ejector groove, some square. I thought I would see if a square groove would make any difference in performance. I am not satisfied with any of the cutters I have made so I started to look for plans to make a tool grinder, I have found several. I have an idea to use several parts from these cutters to make a cutter I would like. This seems to be a good project. I guess I will not be getting back to the gun soon.
| 804|804|2009-05-19 03:44:22|hakj3|Barrel assembly and bolts another reason it may not fire.|
In my quest to make the gun fire I have come across several small problems. The one that occupies my time now is that the bolts will not close all the way. This means that the shell is not pressed against the barrels there for the newly formed firing pins and modified bolts will non work properly and fire the shell. My bolts are exactly the right size the pan is the right size and the cams are the right size. There is a problem with the drawings? Anyone else run into this problem? Let me know. My only fix right now is to cut the pan a little shorter. This shouldn't affect anything. I have posted some pix of the non closing bolt. The gun will still fire once and awhile but the shell cases blow out the side and deform.
| 805|804|2009-05-19 04:00:26|Dale Detrich|Re: Barrel assembly and bolts another reason it may not fire.|

Hello .Are you building the RGG or the D&E gun ????

| 806|804|2009-05-19 06:43:59|Steve Mc Kuhen|Re: Barrel assembly and bolts another reason it may not fire.|

From: hakj3
In my quest to make the gun fire I have come across several small problems. The one that occupies my time now is that the bolts will not close all the way. This means that the shell is not pressed against the barrels there for the newly formed firing pins and modified bolts will non work properly and fire the shell. My bolts are exactly the right size the pan is the right size and the cams are the right size. There is a problem with the drawings? Anyone else run into this problem? Let me know. My only fix right now is to cut the pan a little shorter. This shouldn't affect anything. I have posted some pix of the non closing bolt. The gun will still fire once and awhile but the shell cases blow out the side and deform.

| 807|804|2009-05-20 03:37:14|hakj3|Re: Barrel assembly and bolts another reason it may not fire.|
D&E gun.

| 808|804|2009-05-20 03:41:22|Kirby Harder|Re: Barrel assembly and bolts another reason it may not fire.|
D&E Gun. The gun is done with the exception of the bolt problem.

From: Dale Detrich

Hello .Are you building the RGG or the D&E gun ????

| 809|809|2009-06-11 18:55:09|Jerry|oscillator cams|
I am getting ready to make a couple of oscillator cams for the D&E gun. The part is GG2226. I have a new, larger, CNC rotary table setup. I cut the trials on a smaller Sherline but didn't get the finish I wanted. If anyone is interested in one for the cost of material and shipping, let me know.

Jerry
| 810|809|2009-06-11 19:03:00|Rob|Re: oscillator cams|
Jerry,

I'm interested, email me at rob@...

Thanks,
Rob

Jerry wrote:

| 811|809|2009-06-11 19:08:43|Dennis|Re: oscillator cams|
Jerry,

I sent you a regular email.

Thanks
Dennis
| 812|809|2009-06-11 21:01:36|trippleee13|Re: oscillator cams|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry"
Thanks: Eddie
| 813|809|2009-06-12 02:19:09|Jerry|Re: oscillator cams|
OK.
I am going to make 5 or six. I will drill and ream the .25 center hole, mount it on an arbour and cut the groove and continuous thread.

The part has a keyway groove in the back at .094 diameter. I think I have an endmill that size but will probably cut it with 1/16 and finish it to spec if my 1/16 endmill has a .094 length of cut.

I am not going to critially align the keyway to thread angle since I don't think that matters.

When I get them completed I will post a new email address so that you can send me your mailing addresses.

Jerry

| 814|809|2009-06-12 06:23:00|kwkoster|Re: oscillator cams|
--- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, "Jerry" | 815|809|2009-06-12 15:45:34|william ramsey|Re: oscillator cams|
Jerry

I would like a set

thanks bill

ramseywilliam@...

| 816|809|2009-06-12 18:36:01|Rob|Re: oscillator cams|
Jerry,

I never got your email.

Thanks,
Rob@...

| 817|809|2009-06-12 23:00:49|Jerry|Re: oscillator cams|
I don't know where it went then. I received one and replied from someone like puf???

| 818|809|2009-06-14 02:00:49|walter peterson|Re: oscillator cams|
Jerry, I would be interested in a set if they all are not spoken for

Walt

| 819|819|2009-06-14 07:08:23|bergejay|Hotchkiss rotating cannon|
Does anyone have a working diagram or plans for the Hotchkiss rotating cannon?
| 820|809|2009-06-14 19:23:01|Jerry|Re: oscillator cams - update|
I have three made. They are not what I consider "perfect" but completely serviceable. Remember, these are the oscillator cam part number GG2226, not the cam box cams. I will get to them next.

The first two I used a 3/16 cutter and thought that by plunging and then offsetting to clean-up the sides I would get a better finish. For some reason (probably related to the direction of cutting climb vs conventional) the grooves came out .005 undersize. This would require a slight reduction in the oscillator pin diameter from .25 to .243 or slightly less to allow for smooth action. These two can be had for the cost of shipping. They weigh 1.8oz plus bubble pack will mean $5 in shipping to anywhere in the US via USPS mail.

The third I made with a .25 cutter so the grooves are slightly oversized and it seems to work really well with the .25 pin. For some reason the machine must have been offset slightly so the .15 dimension to the left of the non-pitched groove came out .17, or .02 over. This part is fully serviceable and again is $5 shipped.

I have two more in process. I am going back to the 3/16 cutter and going to make them until I get a "perfect" example for my gun. I will be selling off the ones with slight defects for $5 to cover shipping and bubble pack. The way things are going I could end up with about 10 more close "seconds". Orgininally I thought I would just have mount the blanks on the rotary table arbour and off it would go. The problem is that I couldn't get the part secured on the arbour with only a .25 diameter. So this means I have to align it in the 4 jaw each time.

Since it takes about an hour to make one, once I have a "perfect" setup and process, the charge per "perfect" part would be astronomical. Sounds silly doesn't it? Being a hobbyist, I know see why the prototyping company wanted $15k for setup on a project for my company. I got into metalworking on a larger scale when we needed small, custom, aluminum boxes to hold electronics for our prototype for emergency communications. I had a Sherline mill and lathe that I had converted to CNC years back and they wouldn't cut the larger boxes.

So now I have a hobby that is as my wife sayes, "out of control".

If you are interested in one of the parts listed above, send a note to gatling@.... I will forward my paypal address or if you prefer check or cash, my mailing address. I am located in the SF bay area and if you arrange pickup, the seconds are free. I would love to buy a coffee for a fellow builder in the bay area.

Parts are offered as-is with the slight defects listed above. I only did a rough finish on them to remove obvious tool marks.

Jerry
| 821|809|2009-06-14 20:37:45|Jerry|Re: oscillator cams - update|
the first three are gone, two to Dennis and one to Fred.
| 822|822|2009-06-14 22:55:14|bty198668|trunion|
Hi all , has any one got a picture of the front trunion for the 3o cal gattling please , my drawings of that are not very clear am making a 1/4 scale one.
regards wes
| 823|822|2009-06-15 01:19:55|David Boles|Re: trunion|
Wes,
  I have a photo of the actual Colt , Gatling , Model 1874 , 45-70 cal., will that do ?
Dave
On Jun 14, 2009, at 4:55 PM, bty198668 wrote:

| 824|822|2009-06-15 22:48:10|bty198668|Re: trunion|
Hi dave have sent you a mail , many thanks
wes
-- In GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com, David Boles | 825|825|2009-07-18 23:13:27|gunrunr298@aol.com|South Bend lathe for sale|

I still have the South Bend 14 1/2 x 5ft lathe for sale. It comes with a 3 &a 4 jaw chuck, some tooling, quick change tool post and several holders, thread dial, taper attachment and a 5 hp rotary phase converter.(home built) New price $1500 obo.

It is located just outside Erie,Pa.

email..... gunrunr298@....

A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
| 826|826|2009-07-30 06:12:56|Jerry|Oscillator cams - update|
Well, I'm back after three weeks in Europe and some domestic travel for the past month.

I was able to send Dennis some oscillator cams. Unfortunately, the cams I sent Fred didn't make it thru the mail so I going to run some more. If I end up with any close seconds, I will post here.

FYI, I found the design of the D&E came to be lacking in smoothness so instead of a standard continuos linear thread, I changed it to use a sine wave and they came out much nicer, Dennis should be able to attest to the change since I sent him (and Fred) some of the old and new. Using a sine wave cut, the my CNC mill (with the shaft on a CNC rotary table fixed so the shaft is held horizontal) spend more time at the extremities taking out some of the jerky directional change.

I am posting here since my email server has a problem and wanted Fred and others to know I haven't forgotten you.

Fred - I have one of the old and new cams I was saving and will send out this week, most likely when I am back in town Friday. I am going to send it regular UPS in a box so we don't have the same ripped envelope problem. I'll pickup the extra shipping cost. Let me know if you want your money back instead.

Wonder why the mail always picks on me when I am trying to do a favor??

Anyway, hope all is well.

Jerry
| 827|826|2009-07-30 13:34:44|Ken|Re: Oscillator cams - update|
As they say Jerry,
No good deed goes unpunished.

Sounds like you are an extremely busy man, but if you get a chance can you post a picture of the newly designed cam?

Thanks
Ken

| 828|828|2010-02-05 19:18:23|dvdorner|New Gat Forum|
http://www.gatlinggunforum.com/forum/index.php

Dedicated to home built Gat guns, Rgg & D & E
Register and post.
Tips and tweaks for them.
For sale / wanted section.
No posting of copyrighted drawings.
| 829|829|2010-03-28 23:25:18|pasofino99|Gears|
The gears that are called out on my drawings are Browning NSH-2010-AL and Browning NSH-2020-AL and when I check with Motion Industries they say that they don't recognize that part no. Is there a new number or a different manufacturer number that is a corresponding size?
| 830|829|2010-03-29 00:35:02|Dale Detrich|Gears|

Hello All...........I have had this asked before, and the thing that has come out of this is that when Douglas gave you Browning numbers , they are really " Boston numbers ".........Try that and see how that works out........I built my guns about 11-12 years ago, and I do not remember the gear information......Dale

| 831|829|2010-03-29 01:31:57|Dennis Hardin|Gears|

The gears you want to buy from Motion Industries are Boston Gear

H2010L Item No: 00368594 was $23.05 in Aug. 2008

H2020L Item No: 00368615 was $27.32 in Aug. 2008

| 832|829|2010-04-01 19:49:50|william ramsey|Re: Gears|
I have a set of gears that I can sell you.

Bill

| 833|829|2010-04-02 01:59:18|JERRY SOKOL|Re: Gears|
Bill;

I appreciate your offer but I have already ordered the Boston Gears from Motion Industries. Thanks for clearing up the part number discrepancy

Jerry

| 834|829|2010-04-03 03:06:53|rangingshot|Re: Gears|
Bill,
Are these the gears for the RG-G project?
Dean

| 835|829|2010-04-06 11:56:14|william ramsey|Re: Gears|
No these gears are for the D&E gun

Bill

| 836|836|2010-10-21 08:00:34|sj172010|US NAVY, SEAL, SOCOM, USN, survival, DIVING, ebay, ebooks, DIVER|
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1985 US Army Water Supply, Water Storage 19p.pdf
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1986 US Army Water Desalination 116p.pdf
1986 US Army WATER SUPPLY FOR SPECIAL PROJECTS 9p.pdf
1986 US Army Water Suppy, Water Disribution 59p.pdf
1987 US Army EVAL CRITERIA GUIDE 4 WATER POLLUTION PREVENTION, CONTROL 150p.pdf
1987 US Army Water Supply Sources & General Consider. 53p..pdf
1987 US Army WATER SUPPLY SOURCES & GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS 53p.pdf
1994 FEMA FOOD AND WATER IN AN EMERGENCY 4p.PDF
1994 Food and Water in an Emergency 6p.pdf
1994 US Navy - Cooking Course 393p.pdf
1994 US Navy Mess (food) Management Specialist 357p.pdf
1995 Water - Things You Need To Know About Water 22p.pdf
1997 USDOD Water Conservation MIL-HDBK-1165 137p.pdf
1998 US Navy Food Safety 162p.pdf
1999 Food Shelf Life (with charts) 21p.pdf
1999 US Air Force GUIDE TO REVERSE OSMOSIS WATER PURIFICATION UNIT INSTALLATION & OPs 99p.pdf
2000 EMERGENCY WATER PURIFICATION 5p.pdf
2000 US Army Basic Food Preparation QM0333 252p.pdf
2000 US Army Dairy MD0715 Ed.100 123p.pdf
2000 US Army Food Containers MD0708 Ed.100 68p.pdf
2000 US Army Food Deterioration MD0723 Ed.100 144p.pdf
2000 US Army Food Preparation Part I QM0454 86p.pdf
2000 US Army Military Water Supply MD0160 Ed.100 241p.pdf
2000 US Army Poultry I MD0712 Ed.100 44p.pdf
2000 US Army Poultry II MD0728 Ed.100 70p.pdf
2000 US Army Preservation of Foods MD0703 Ed.100 102p.pdf
2000 US Army Red Meats MD0710 Ed.200 184p.pdf
2000 US Army Shell Eggs MD0713 Ed.100 147p.pdf
2000 US Army Waterfoods MD0711 Ed.100 83p.pdf
2003 Prudent Food Storage FAQ 125p.pdf
2004 FEMA Food and Water 16p.pdf
2004 Food Storage FAQs 53p.pdf
2004 Survival Drying Food 8p.pdf
2004 US Air Force FOOD AND WATER PROTECTION PROGRAM 32p.pdf
2004 USDOD - Water Conservation UFC 3-440-02 144p.pdf
2005 COOKING ON AN OPEN FIRE 2p.PDF
2005 SURVIVAL WATER PURIFICATION - DRINKING WATER CHLORINATION 4p.PDF
2005 Water, sanitation, hygiene and habitat in prisons 147.pdf
2006 DRINKING WATER 3p.PDF
2006 EPA EMERGENCY WATER PURIFICATION 4p.pdf
2006 EPA EMERGENCY-DISINFECTION-DRINKING WATER 4p.PDF

Nuclear Biological Chemical Survival
1950 DOD SURVIVAL UNDER ATOMIC ATTACK 32p.PDF
1951 ENERGY DEPT NEUTRON PHYSICS FERMI AECD-2664 102p.PDF
1952 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-2 PERSONAL DOSIMETERS FOR RADIOLOGICAL DEFENSE 3p.PDF
1952 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-8 PERMISSIBLE EMERGENCY LEVELS OF RADIATION IN FOOD & WATER 1p.PDF
1952 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-9 EMERGENCY MEASUREMENTS OF RADIATION IN FOOD & WATER 2p.PDF
1955 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-19 PROTECTION AGAINST FALLOUT RADIATION _8p.PDF
1955 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-20 RADIOLOGICAINSTRUMENTS FOR CIVIL DEFENSE 7p.PDF
1955 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-21 FALLOUT AND THE WINDS 8p.PDF
1955 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 8-1 BLAST DAMAGE FROM NUCLEAR WEAPONS 3p.PDF
1955 DOD TB-11-19 Protection Against Fallout Rad 3p.pdf
1956 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-1 EMERGENCY EXPOSURES TO NUCLEAR RADIATION 8p.PDF
1956 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-22 RADIATION PHYSICS AND BOMB PHENOMENOLOGY 8p.PDF
1956 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-24 MEDICAL ASPECTS OF NUCLEAR RADIATION 3p.PDF
1957 CIVIL DEFENSE notebook -CD-3 42p.PDF
1957 CIVIL DEFENSE TELL THE PUBLIC 2p.PDF
1957 Public Information in CIVIL DEFENSE -CD-1 19p.PDF
1958 Canadian CIVIL DEFENSE Civil Defense Handbook 42p.pdf
1958 CIVIL DEFENSE H-BOMB BOOKLET 2 3p.PDF
1958 Civil Defense OSP3 28p.pdf
1958 CIVIL DEFENSE TB 11-20 RADIOLOGICAL INSTRUMENTS FOR CIVIL DEFENSE APP 5 4p.PDF
1958 DOD FACTS ABOUT FALLOUT PROTECTION 1958 L-18 8p.PDF
1958 DOD TB-11-21 Fallout and the Winds 3p.pdf
1958 DOD TB-11-24 Medical Aspects of Nuclear Rad 3p.pdf
1958 DOD TB-11-8 Permissible Emerg Levels of Rad in Food and Water 1p.pdf
1958 DOD TB-11-9 Emerg Measurements of Rad in Food and Water 2p.pdf
1958 DOD TB-8-1 Blast Damage from Nuclear Weapons 3p.pdf
1958 DOD TB11-1 Emerg Exposures to Nuclear Rad 2p.pdf
1958 Operations & Control in CIVIL DEFENSE -2 41p.PDF
1959 DOD HANDBOOK FOR RADIOLOGICAL DEFENSE EDUCATION 116p.PDF
1959 DOD TB-11-2 Personal Dosimeters for Rad Defense 3p.pdf
1959 DOD TEN FOR SURVIVAL-SURVIVE NUCLEAR ATTACK 23p.PDF
1959 Nuclear SUPPLEMENT 33 9p.PDF
1960 CIVIL DEFENSE How nuclaer fission can affect you CD-4 3p.PDF
1960 DOA Fallout on the Farm 19p.pdf
1961 DOD GLOSSARY OF HANFORD TERMINOLOGY 28p.PDF
1961 DOD what you should know about the national plan 46p.pdf
1962 CIVIL DEFENSE A plan for your survival -CD-5 4p.PDF
1962 CIVIL DEFENSE Criteria for Rad Instruments for Use by the General Public 4p.pdf
1962 CRITERIA FOR RADIATION INSTRUMENTS 4p.PDF
1963 DOD Handbook for Radiological Monitors-1963- fg-e-5.9 44p.pdf
1963 DOD Radiogical Monitoring Student worbook 16p.pdf
1963 DOD RADIOLOGICAL MONITORING INSTRUMENTS AND EQUIPMENT FOR CIVIL DEFENSE OPERATIONS 4p.PDF
1963 DOD RADIOLOGICAL MONITORING STUDENT WORKBOOK SM-11.21.1 16p.PDF
1963 DODHandbook for Radiologicl Monitors 1963 44p.PDF
1963 OFFICE OF CIVIL DEFENSE Rad Monitoring Student Workbook 16p.pdf
1964 US Army Nuclear Play Calculator 48p.pdf
1965 DOD School Boards Plans for Civil Defense 33p.pdf
1965 SCHOOL BOARDS PLANS FOR CIVIL DEFENSE 33p.PDF
1966 DOD CURRENT STATUS OF CIVIL DEFENSE IN_SCHOOLS 46p.PDF
1966 DOD Handbook for Aerial Radiological Monitors-1966 fg-e-5.9.1 33p.pdf
1966 OFFICE OF CIVIL DEFENSE HANDBOOK FOR AERIAL RADIOLOGICAL MONITORS FG-E-5.9.133p.PDF
1967 CIVIL DEFENSE CD H-BOMB BOOKLET 5p.PDF
1968 DOD TB-11-22 Rad Physics and Bomb Phenomenology 3p.pdf
1970 DOD Meteorlogical Data for Radiological Defense Users Manual 31p.pdf
1970 US Army METEROLOGICAL DATA FOR RADIOLOGICAL DEFENSE FGE-E 5-6 31p.PDF
1975 DOD NUCLEAR WAR SURVIVAL SKILLS 289p.PDF
1975 U.S. Arms Control Agency WORLDWIDE EFFECTS OF NUCLEAR WAR 21p.pdf
1978 DOD RADIOLOGICAL DEFENSE PREPAREDNESS 51p.PDF
1978 DOD Radiological Defense Preparedness 51p.pdf
1978 NBC Tactics & Consequences 205p.pdf
1979 population targeting 126p.pdf
1979 The Effects Of Nuclear War 154p.pdf
1980 FEMA Standards for Local Civil Defense 56p.pdf
1980 Nuclear War Survival Guide 40p.pdf
1981 FEMA GUIDE DEFENSE SUPPORT SYSTEM CPG1-30 210p.PDF
1982 US Army CHEMICAL WEAPONS & MUNITIONS 120p.pdf
1985 FEMA Nuclear War Survival 42p.pdf
1985 FEMA PROTECTION IN THE NUCLEAR AGE 43p.pdf
1985 protection in Nuclear War Survival 43p.pdf
1986 FEMA CIVIL DEFENSE HISTORY 33p.PDF
1986 FEMA RADIOLOGICAL INSTRUMENTS 63p.PDF
1986 FEMA TR-90 FALLOUT EXPOSURE RATE PREDICTION TABLES 103p.PDF
1986 US Army Field Behavior of NBC Agents FM 3-6 80p.pdf
1987 Day After Work shop Report 25p.pdf
1987 FEMA FUNDAMENTALS COURSE FOR RADIOLOGICAL MONITORS SM 81 STUDENT MANUAL 58p.PDF
1990 FEMA Fallout risk Statistics & Maps NAPB90-annexa 231p.pdf
1990 FEMA NAPB90-execsum Summary 3p.pdf
1990 FEMA NAPB90-part1 Project overview 6p.pdf
1990 FEMA NAPB90-part2 11p.pdf
1990 FEMA NAPB90-part3 Risk Defininitions 30p.pdf
1990 Potential Military Chemical Biological Agents & Compounds 131p.pdf
1990 US Army EMP System Eng Requirements 16p.pdf
1990 US Army Potential Mil.Chem,BioAgents,Compounds 131p..pdf
1991 FEMA USE OF CIVIL DEFENCE RADIOLOGICAL INSTRUMENTS CPG 2-2 25p.PDF
1992 CHECKLIST FOR PEOPLE WITH MOBILITY PROBLEMS 5p.PDF
1992 US Army Chemical & Biological contamination avoidance 144p.pdf
1992 US Army Chemical & Biological Contamination Avoidance 155p.pdf
1992 US Army NBC Protection 123p.pdf
1992 USMC NBC Protection FM 3-4 196p.pdf
1993 FEMA DISASTER COLORING BOOK 27p.PDF
1993 FEMA EMERGENCY MGMT GUID FOR BUSINESS 68p.PDF
1993 US Army Chemical Staffs & Units FM 3-101 261p.pdf
1993 US Army NBC Field Handbook FM 3-7 205p.pdf
1994 Energy Dept RADIUM IN HUMANS 246p.PDF
1994 FEMA SEISMIC SLEUTHS 402p.PDF
1994 US Army Commander's Tactical NBC Handbook 120p.pdf
1994 US Army NBC Field Handbook 202p.pdf
1994 US Army Nuclear Contamination Aviodance 317p.pdf
1994 US Army Tech Guidelines for Hazardous & Toxic Waste Treatment & Cleanup Activities 373p.pdf
1995 DOD NBC DEFENSE 85p.pdf
1995 ENERGY DEPT HUMAN RADIATION STUDIES DOE EH0475 50p.PDF
1995 ENERGY DEPT HUMAN RADIATION STUDIES DOE EH4064 46p.PDF
1995 US Army JP 3-12-Doctrine for Joint Nuclear Operations Final Coordination 69p.pdf
1995 US Army MD-0151 MEDICAL COURSE PRINCIPLES OF EPIDEMIOLOGY & MICROBIOLOGY 89p.PDF
1995 US Army MEDICAL ASPECTS OF CHEMICAL AND BIOLOGICAL WARFARE 706p.PDF
1995 USAF Counter NBC Nuc. Bio. Chem. Ops 64p.pdf
1996 FEMA & US Army CHEMICAL STOCKPILE EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS 355p.pdf
1996 NATO Medical Aspects of NBC Defense 444p.pdf
1996 UN Contingency Planning 60p.pdf
1996 US ARMY 6 Nuclear Weapons Effects Technology 38p.pdf
1996 US Army COURSE GEOLOGY 110p.PDF
1997 US Army CHEMICAL PROTECTION AGAINST RADIATION 31p.PDF
1997 US Army EM 385-1-80 RADIATION PROTECTION 176p.PDF
1997 US Army Radiation Protection 175p.pdf
1997 US Army Radiation Protection Manual 176p.pdf
1998 Centers for Disease CDC Control Botulism Handbook 44p.pdf
1998 US Marine Corps MAGTF, Nuclear, Chemical, Biological Defense Operations 116p.pdf
1998 USAF Nuclear Operations 51p.pdf
1999 FEMA EMERGENCY RESPONSE TO TERRORISM 110p.pdf
1999 US Army MEDICAL MANAGEMENT OF RADIOLOGICAL CASUALTIES SP 99-2 152p.PDF
1999 US Marine Corps Chemical Warfare 18p.pdf
2000 TREATMENT OF BIOLOGICAL WARFARE AGENT CASUALTIES 112p.pdf
2000 U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Design and Construction of Levees 164p.pdf
2000 US Army Treatment of Biological Warfare Agent Casualties 115p.pdf
2000 US Army M 385-11 CONTROL OF IONIZING RADIATION 143p.PDF
2000 US Army Medical Management of Chemical & Biological Casualties 56p.pdf
2000 US Army NBC Decontamination FM 3-5 230p.pdf
2000 US Army Nuclear Surety 62p.pdf
2000 US Army The Medical NBC Battlebook 304p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Treatment of Biological Warfare Agent Casualties 138.pdf
2000 US Multiserv - NBC Defense - Fixed Sites 224p..pdf
2000 US Multiserv - NBC Defense - Tactics 221p.pdf
2000 US Multiserv - Treat. of Bio. Agent Casualties 116p..pdf
2001 DOD Nuclear, Biological & Chemical Aspects of Concequence Management 200p.pdf
2001 US Air Force WEAPONS OF MASS DESTRUCTION (WMD) THREAT PLANNING & RESPONSE 170p.pdf
2001 US Army Medical Management of Biological Casualties 135p.pdf
2001 US Army NBC Tactics & Consequences 203p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Nuclear, Biological Y Chemical Aspects of Concequence Management 200p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Understanding and Surviving Terrorism 138p.pdf
2001 US Multiserv - Treat. of Nuclear & Radiolog.Casualties 181p..pdf
2002 CIA Chemical Biological Radiological Incident Handbook 14p.pdf
2002 Dept Of Health Mustard Gas ACTION IN THE EVENT OF A SUSPECTED 12p.pdf
2002 DOD RADIATION EXPOSURE POCKET-CARD 2p.PDF
2002 HEALTH SERVICE SUPPORT IN A NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, & CHEMICAL ENVIRONMENT 242p.pdf
2002 plan summary 911 16p.pdf
2002 US AIR FORCE ANTITERRORISM (AT) STANDARDS 70p.pdf
2002 US Air Force STANDARD ATTACK WARNING SIGNALS FOR NBCC MEDIUM & HIGH THREAT AREAS 1p.pdf
2002 US Army Biological Terrorism Pocket Card 2 2p.pdf
2002 US Army Health Service Support-NBC Environment 241p..pdf
2002 US Army NBC Decontamination Operations 94p.pdf
2002 US Army TRANSPORTATION INFORMATION FOR RADIOACTIVE COMMODITIES 2002.PDF
2002 US Marine Corps NBC Decontamination 249p.pdf
2003 MULTISERVICE TACTICS, TECHNIQUES, & PROCEDURES FOR NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, & CHEMICAL DEFENSE OPERATIONS 221p.pdf
2003 US Air Force NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, CHEMICAL & CONVENTIONAL DEFENSE OPS & STANDARDS 247p.pdf
2003 US Army Biological Weapons Tech - Section III 28p.pdf
2003 US Army MEDICAL MANAGEMENT OF RADIOLOGICAL CASUALTIES 169p.pdf
2003 US Marine Corps Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical (NBC) Protection 250p.pdf
2004 DOD Nuclear, Biological & Chemical Vulnerability Assessment 128p.pdf
2004 FEMA Radiation 4p.pdf
2004 FEMA Radiological Accidents Fact Sheet 4p.pdf
2004 Homeland Security responseplan 430p.pdf
2004 Tactics,Techniq, Procedures for NBC Recon 367p..pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Multiservice Tactics, Techniques & Procedures for Biological Surveillance 248p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical Reconnaissance 366p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical Vulnerability Assessment 128p.pdf
2005 911 Report 586p.pdf
2005 FEMA NAPB90-front 5p.pdf
2005 FEMA National Security Emergencies 14p.pdf
2005 NWS RIP CURRENTS BROCHURE FINAL 2p.PDF
2005 NWS RIP CURRENTS BROCHURE FINAL SPANISH 2p.PDF
2005 Potential Mil.Chem.Bio.Agents&Compounds 319p..pdf
2005 Preparedness Planning For Pandemic Influenza 29p.pdf
2005 US Army Case Studies in Terrorism 106p.pdf
2005 US Army Chemical Weapons Tech - Section VI 39p.pdf
2005 US Army usamriid medical mgmt handbook 187p.pdf
2005 US Marines Potential Military Chemical & Biological Agents & Compounds 318p.pdf
2006 FEMA CIVIL DEFENSE AND HOMELAND SECURITY 36p.PDF
2006 Israeli Civilian Gas Mask Instructions 3p.pdf
2006 Pandemic Flu Preparedness 59p.pdf
2006 PROCEDURES FOR NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL, & CHEMICAL RECONNAISSANCE 367p.pdf
2006 US Air Force SAFEGUARDING BIOLOGICAL SELECT AGENTS & TOXINS 7p.pdf
2006 US Army CHEMICAL PROTECTION AND DECONTAMINATION 16p.pdf
2006 US Army CHEMICAL, BIOLOGICAL, RADIOLOGICAL, Nuclear 76p..pdf
2006 US Army M12A1 DECONTAMINATION EQUIPMENT HOT WEATHER DESERT OPS 1p.pdf
2006 US Army Nuclear, Biological, and Chemical Handbook Medical 58p.pdf
2006 Whitehouse Pandemic Influenza Implementation plan 233p.pdf
2007 512 population density maps 2p.pdf
2007 US Air Force COUNTER-CHEMICAL, BIOLOGICAL, RADIOLOGICAL & NUCLEAR OPERATIONS 11p.pdf
2007 US Air Force MINIMUM SECURITY STANDARDS 4 SAFEGUARDING BIOLOGICAL SELECT AGENTS & TOXINS 44p.pdf
2008 US Army CHEMICAL PROTECTION AND DECONTAMINATION 16p.pdf

Old World Survival Skills
1594 DiGrassi Medieval Sword Manual 184 pages.pdf
1867 MILCH COWS AND DAIRY FARMING by Charles L Flint 432p.PDF
1868 PRACTICAL WATER FARMING by wm Peard 290p.PDF
1874 HINTS TO SPORTSMEN AND TRAVELLERS by leveson henry astbury 353p.PDF
1886 MODERN HIGH FARMING by francis wyatt 97p.PDF
1890 HEALTH AND COMFORT IN HOUSE BUILDING John Drysdale 217p.PDF
1891 PRACTICAL BLACKSMITHING by M T Richerson 294p.PDF
1893 FOREST PLANTING H Nicholas Jarchow 264p.PDF
1893 IRRIGATION FOR THE FARM GARDEN AND ORC Henry Stewart 287p.PDF
1895 IRRIGATION FARMING by Lute Wilcox 327p.PDF
1897 TRAIL AND CAMPFIRE BOOK by George bird Grinnell 381p.PDF
1900 FORAGE CROPS by Thomas Shaw 304p.PDF
1901 Farm Blacksmithing By James M Drew 100p.pdf
1907 DAN BEARDS ANIMAL BOOK AND CAMPFIRE STORIES by Dan Beards 634p.PDF
1907 PRACTICAL_FARMING by Samuel w Allerton 128p.PDF
1908 Historic Icelandic Wrestling 38p.pdf
1909 DRY FARMING by William Macdonald 307p.PDF
1910 CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN AGRICULTURE by lL H Bailey 779p.PDF
1910 YARNS FOR BOY SCOUTS R S S Baden-Powell 228p.PDF
1911 HARPERS CAMPING AND SCOUTING by George bird Grnnell 421p.PDF
1913 PRINCIPLES OF IRRIGATION ENGINEERING by Frederick Haynes Newell 345p.PDF
1914 OUTDOOR HANDY BOOK by D C Beard 526p.PDF
1915 GAME FARMING FOR PROFIT AND PLEASURE by Dwight Williams Huntington 65p.PDF
1916 FEEDS AND FEEDING by W A Henry 708p.PDF
1916 HANDBOOK OF ROCK EXCAVATION METHODS AND COST by halbert powers gillette 869p.PDF
1916 Hunting with the Bow and Arrow, Ishi The Last Yani 161p.pdf
1916 SUCCESSFUL FARMING by frank D gardner 1143p.PDF
1918 IRRIGATION AND DRAINAGE by F H King 537p.PDF
1919 FARM POULTRY by george C watson 395p.PDF
1919 POULTRY A PRACTICAL GUIDE by hugh piper 192p.PDF
1919 SCOUTING FOR GIRLS 580p.PDF
1920 FARM BLACKSMITHING by john F friese 97p.PDF
1920 The Secrets of Jujitsu 83p.pdf
1920 TRAIL CRAFT 239p.PDF

Survival Retreats And Shelters
1957 CIVIL DEFENSE Public Information in Civil Defence 18p.pdf
1958 CIVIL DEFENSE FAMILY SHELTERS FOR PROTECTION AGAINST RADIATIONFALLOUT 8p.PDF
1961 DOD FALLOUT PROTECTION 1 24p.PDF
1961 DOD FALLOUT PROTECTION 2 46p.PDF
1961 US DOD A CASE FOR SURVIVAL DEEP UNDERGROUND 12.PDF
1965 US Army SWISS CIVIL DEFENSE 51p.PDF
1967 DOD FALLOUT PROTECTION FOR HOMES WITH BASEMENTS 25p.PDF
1970 DOD Increasing Blast and Fire Resistance in Buildings 11p.pdf
1970 DOD Protective Design Examples 5p.pdf
1971 US Army Vietnam - Shelter Operation and Supplies 21p..pdf
1972 Protective Design-TR-72 4p.pdf
1973 FEMA ABOVE GROUND HOME SHELTER 8p.pdf
1973 FEMA Fallout Shelter, Above-Ground 9p.pdf
1974 Blast Tests of Expedient Shelters 85p.pdf
1975 Pole Construction 78p.pdf
1976 Civil Defense Shelter Policy and PostAttack Recovery 113.pdf
1978 DOD EMERGENCY FALLOUT SHELTER STOCKING PLAN CPG1-19A 26p.PDF
1978 DOD Shelter Management Handbook h-16 25p.pdf
1978 DOD SHELTER MANAGEMENT HANDBOOK H-16 25p.PDF
1979 FEMA EXPEDIENT FALLOUT SHELTERS 10p.PDF
1980 Fallout Shelter Tilt up storage 4p.pdf
1980 FEMA Above Ground Fallout Shelter 9p.pdf
1980 FEMA ABOVEGROUND HOME SHELTER H-2-2 8p.PDF
1980 FEMA Fallout Shelter lean-to shelter basement location plan F 5p.pdf
1980 FEMA Fallout Shelter Modified Ceiling 8p.pdf
1980 FEMA Home Fallout Shelter concrete block shelter-basement location plan C 5p.pdf
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER HOME BASEMENTS H-12-A 8p.PDF
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER HOME BASEMENTS H-12-B 8p.PDF
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER HOME BASEMENTS H-12-C 4p.PDF
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER HOME BASEMENTS H-12-E 4p.PDF
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER HOME BASEMENTS H-12-F 4p.PDF
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER modified ceiling shelter basement location A 8p.pdf
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER modified ceiling shelter basement location C 4p.pdf
1980 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER modified ceiling shelter basement location F 4p.pdf
1980 FEMA Home Fallout Shelter modified ceiling shelter basement plan A 9p.pdf
1980 FEMA Home Fallout Shelter tilt-up storage unit shelter basement location plan E 5p.pdf
1980 FEMA Home Shelter Outside Concrete Shelter 9p.pdf
1980 FEMA HOME SHELTER CONSTRUCTION GUIDE OUTSIDE CONCRETE SHELTER H-12-1 8p.PDF
1980 FEMA OUTDOOR WARNING SYSTEMS GUIDE CPG1-17N 24p.PDF
1982 FEMA Increasing Blast & Fire Resistance In Buildings 14p.pdf
1982 FEMA State Of The Art Assessment-Shelter Habitability 192p.pdf
1983 FEMA RADIATION SAFETY IN SHELTERS 118p.PDF
1983 US Army COASTAL ENGINEERING TECHNICAL NOTE 6p.PDF
1985 US Army Countermobility 219p.pdf
1987 FEMA Guide 4 Development of a State & Local Continuity of Government Capability 22p.pdf
1987 FEMA HomeShelter 8p.pdf
1989 FEMA HOME FALLOUT SHELTER modified ceiling shelter basement location E 4p.pdf
1989 US Army Base Defense 98p.pdf
1989 US Army Corps of Engineers Retaining and Flood Walls 448p.pdf
1989 US Navy Weed Control & Plant Growth Reg. 180p.pdf
1990 FEMA Direct effects & Fire risk statistics & maps NAPB90-annexa 216p.pdf
1990 US Army Camouflage,Concealment, & Decoys 81p.pdf
1992 US Navy Basic Pest Management 177p.pdf
1992 US Navy Urban Integrated Pest Management 205p.pdf
1995 Swiss CIVIL DEFENSE Life in a Shelter 12p.pdf
1995 US Air Force Contingency And Disaster Planning 203p.pdf
1995 US Army EN 5156 ENGINEER COURSE CARPENTRY II 105p.PDF
1995 US Army FACILITIES ENGINEERING ELECTRICAL INTERIOR FACILITIES 180p.pdf
1996 US Air Force Bare Base Conceptual Planning Guide 351p.pdf
1996 US Army FACILITIES ENGINEERING ELECTRICAL EXTERIOR FACILITIES 201p.pdf
1997 FEMA YOUR FAMILY DISASTER SUPPLIES KIT 4p.PDF
1997 Intrnt Emr Prep Manual 86p.pdf
1997 US Army Corps of Engineers Tunnels and Shafts in Rock 236p.pdf
1997 US Army Fire Protection for Facilities Engineering, Design & Construction 111p.pdf
1997 US Marine Corps Remote Sensor Operations 89p.pdf
1998 FEMA Safehouse 32p.pdf
1998 US Air Force GUIDE TO BARE BASE POWER PLANT INSTALLATION 67p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 1 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 10 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 11 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 12 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 12bw 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 13 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 13bw 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 14 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 15 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 16.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 2.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 3 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 4 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 5 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 6 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 7.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 8 1p.pdf
1999 fema in-residence shelter plan sheet 9 1p.pdf
1999 US Air Force GUIDE TO BARE BASE FACILITY ERECTION 91p.pdf
1999 US Air Force GUIDE TO BARE BASE MECHANICAL SYSTEMS PART 1 72p.pdf
1999 US Army Camouflage, Concealment, and Decoys 99p.pdf
1999 US Army Corps of Engineers Design of Small Water Systems 83p.pdf
1999 US Army FACILITIES ENGINEERING ELECTRICAL FACILITIES SAFETY 144p.pdf
1999 US Army MECHANCIAL & ELECTRICAL DESIGN OF PUMPING STATIONS 171p.pdf
2000 HOW DO YOU LIVE WITHOUT ELECTRICITY 1p.PDF
2000 US Air Force REFUGEE CAMP PLANNING & CONSTRUCTION HANDBOOK 135p.pdf
2000 US Army Deeply Buried Facilities Implications for Military Operation 48p.pdf
2001 NREL LEARNING SOLAR HOT WATER 1p.PDF
2001 NWS LIGHTNING FACTS SHEET 2p.PDF
2001 US Army PRECIPITATION COAGULATION FLOCCULATION 101p.pdf
2002 A Modern Underground Storage Cellar 5p.pdf
2002 DOD UFC 3-440-01 DESIGN - ACTIVE SOLAR PREHEAT SYSTEMS 99p.PDF
2002 FEMA Us 91- Fema Wtc Building Perfomance Study 19p.pdf
2002 HEMA US 911 FEMA WTC Building Perfomance Study 22p.pdf
2003 US Army Combined Arms Obstacle Integration with change 1 179p.pdf
2003 US Army The Army Universal Task List 451p.pdf
2004 CDC Sheltering facts 2p.pdf
2004 US Air Force BASE SUPPORT AND EXPEDITIONARY SITE PLANNING 237p.pdf
2005 US Army Field Fortifications Subcourse 215p.pdf
2005 US Army Packaging of Materiel Packing FM 38-701 399p.pdf
2005 US Army Packaging of Materiel Preservation FM 38-700 267p.pdf
2006 Bushcraft Canadian Survival Scout Manual 99p.pdf
2006 CDC Sheltering in Place 3p.pdf
2006 TYPES OF SHELTERS 10p.PDF
2006 US Air Force GUIDE TO BARE BASE ASSETS 104p.pdf
2006 US Air Force GUIDE TO BARE BASE DEVELOPMENT 104p.pdf
2006 US Air Force PLANNING & DESIGN OF EXPEDITIONARY AIRBASES 126p.pdf
2006 US Army SPECIAL FORCES Caching Techniques 19p.pdf
2006 US Army Special Forces Caching Techniques 25p.pdf
2007 US Air Force DISEASE CONTAINMENT PLANNING GUIDANCE 73p.pdf

Carpentry
1995 US Army Engineer Carpentry 224p.pdf
1995 US Army Engineer Carpentry I 118p.pdf
1995 US Army Engineer Carpentry II 105p.pdf
1995 US Army Engineer Carpentry III 67p.pdf

Construction & Engineering
1985 US Army CORPS OF ENGINEERS CONTINUITY OF OPERATIONS PLANNING SYS 53p.pdf
1986 US Army General Engineering FM 5-104 163p.pdf
1988 US Army Engineer - Landscape Design & Planting 61p..pdf
1988 US Army Unit Maintenance Operations 89p.pdf
1992 Engineer Diving Operations 39p.pdf
1992 US Army Construction Management 54p.pdf
1992 US Army Engineer - Builders' Hardware 17p..pdf
1992 USDOE Instrumentation & Control-Temp Detector 281p..pdf
1994 US Army Corps of Engineers Arch Dam Design 240p.pdf
1994 US Army Earth and Rock-Fill Dams, Design & Construction Considerations 78p.pdf
1994 US Army Hydroelectric Power Plants Electrical Design 118p.pdf
1994 USDOE Fire - Primer on Spontaneous Heating and Pyrophoricity 88p.pdf
1995 US Army Design Forms for a Concrete Wall 53p.pdf
1995 US Army Hydroelectirc Power Plants Mechanical Design 124p.pdf
1995 US Army PAINTING NEW CONSTRUCTION & MAINTENANCE 159p.pdf
1995 US Army Planning & Design of Hydroelectric Power Plant Structures 53p.pdf
1995 US Navy Well-drilling Operations 263p.pdf
1996 US Army Engineer Survey I-Math & Survey Princip. 167p..pdf
1999 US Army Engineer Construct.Equip.Repairer-Hydraul.83p..pdf
1999 US Army Engineer Design of Small Water Systems 83p..pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Engineering Operations 48p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Survey III Topograph.Geodetic 284p..pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography I (Map Mathematics) 184p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography II 147p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography III (Aerial Photo.) 104p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography IX (Map Overlays) 73p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography VII (Color Separat.) 97p..pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Cartography VIII (Map Editing) EN5308 89p..pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Earthmovers, Tractors, Etc. 9p.pdf
2001 US Army Engineer Intelligence & Recon 457p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Heavy Construction Equipment Operator-Grader 40p..pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Heavy Construction Equipment Operator-Scraper 38p..pdf
2001 USDOD Systems Engineering Fundamentals 223p..pdf
2002 DOD Design Active Solar Preheat Systems 98p.pdf
2002 US Army Engineer - Mil. Nonstandard Fixed Bridging 559p..pdf
2003 US Army Contractors on the Battlefield 125p..pdf
2004 US Army Engineer - Diving Operations 52p.pdf
2004 US Army Engineer - Operations FM 3-34 340p.pdf
2004 US Army Engineer Operations FM 3-34 340p.pdf
2004 USDOD Fire Protect. Engineering for Facilities 120p..pdf
2004 USDOD Inspection, Mainten,Test-Fire Protect Sys 40p..pdf
2004 USDOD Protective Coatings and Paints 250p.pdf
2004 USDOD Tropical Engineering 93p.pdf
2006 US Army Engineer Design Forms for Concrete Wall , 48p..pdf

Drafting & Surveying
1994 US Navy Blueprint Reading,Sketching 222p..pdf
1999 US Navy Illus. Draftsman Draft.Pract.Theory Vol 2 429p..pdf
2002 US Navy Illus. Draftsman Equipment Vol 1 373p..pdf
2003 US Navy Illus. Draftsman Execution Practices Vol 3 583p..pdf
2003 US Navy Illus. Draftsman Presentation,Graphics Vol 4 273p..pdf

Education
1985 US Navy Basic Maths and Algebra 305p.pdf
1987 U.S. History Guide 108p.pdf
1988 US Army Basic Mathematics IV (Ratio and Proportion) 34p..pdf
1991 US Army Basic Statistics 119p..pdf
1992 USDOE Mathematics, Volume 1 of 2 207p.pdf
1992 USDOE Mathematics, Volume 2 of 2 113p.pdf
1992 USDOE Classical Physics 1p.pdf
1993 USDOE Chemistry, Volume 1 of 2 141p.pdf
1993 USDOE Chemistry, Volume 2 of 2 139p.pdf
1996 US Army Geology 110p.pdf
1997 US Army Reading Comp.Study Methods,Time Manage.Skills 92p.pdf
1999 Units Of Measure and Converstion Factors 4p.pdf
1999 US Army Basic Mathematics I (Add,Subtract,Multiply,Divide) 76p.pdf
1999 US Army Basic Mathematics II (Decimal Fractions) 49p.pdf
1999 US Army Basic Mathematics III (Area and Volume) 56p.pdf
1999 US Army Military History Responsibilities Policies & Procedures 36p.pdf
2001 US Department of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms 771p.pdf
2001 US Dept of Defense Dictionary of Military and Associated Terms 617p.pdf
2005 Army Basic Math Conversion Factors,Comm. Formula 3p..pdf

Electrical & Electronics
1984 US Army Electrical-Power Plant Design 135p.pdf
1985 US Army ELECTRICAL DESIGN LIGHTNING & STATIC ELECTRICITY PROTECTION 20p.pdf
1985 US Army Electrical-Cathodic Protection 60p..pdf
1985 US Army Electrical-Lightning,Static Elec.Protect. 20p..pdf
1986 US Army Electronics-RadioWave Propagation,Antennas 187p..pdf
1993 USDOD Electrical-Soldering-Elec.&Electron.Assem.,213p..pdf
1994 US Army Electrical-Hydroelectric Pwr. Plants Design 118p..pdf
1994 US Army Electronics-Plan Tactical Telephone Sys. 74p..pdf
1995 US Army ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLY & DISTRIBUTION 122p.pdf
1995 US Navy Electronics-Tech 7 Antennas ,Wave Propag. 125p..pdf
1995 USDOE Primer-Lead-Acid Storage Batteries 55p.pdf
1996 US Army Electrical-Work, Power, and Energy 33p.pdf
1996 US Army Electronics-Basic Schematic Interpretation 83p..pdf
1996 US Army Electronics-Intro to Logical Troubleshoot 60p..pdf
1997 US Army Electronics Basic Electricity Part 1 121p.pdf
1997 US Navy Electronics Technician Vol 1 Safety 59p.pdf
1997 US Navy Electronics Technician Vol 3 Comm. System. 221p..pdf
1998 US Army Electronics-AC Math & Generation-Sine Wave 82p..pdf
1998 US Army Power Transformer Maintenance & Acceptance Testing 62p.pdf
1998 US Navy Electrical-Safety Field Guide 155p.pdf
1998 US Navy Electronics-Microwave Principles 193p..pdf
1998 US Navy Intro to Elec.Conduct,Wiring,Schem.Reading 153p..pdf
1998 USDOE Electrical - Safety Handbook 325p.pdf
1999 US Army Average Wattage Req Generators apliances tools 4p.pdf
1999 US Army Electrical-Foreign Voltages,Frequencies 31p..pdf
1999 US Army Electronics - Basic Communications Info 52.p.pdf
1999 US Army Electronics-Intro to Cells and Batteries 33p.pdf
1999 US Army Electronics-Radio Direction Finding 55p..pdf
1999 US Army FOREIGN VOLTAGES AND FREQUENCIES GUIDE 31p.pdf
1999 US Navy Electrical-Measuring,Test Instruments 43p..pdf
1999 US Navy Electrical-Motors and Controllers 51p.pdf
1999 US Navy Electrical-Power Generating Equipment 57p..pdf
2001 MAINTENANCE OF MECHANICAL AND ELECTRICAL 221p.pdf
2001 US Army Basic Electrical Circuits Ed.200 38p.pdf
2001 US Army MAINTENANCE OF MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 220p.pdf
2001 US Army MAINTENANCE OF MECHANICAL & ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 261p.pdf
2002 US Army COMMISSIONING OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS 104p.pdf
2002 US Army Grounding and Bonding in Command, Control, Communications 183p.pdf
2002 US Army UNINTERRUPTIBLE POWER SUPPLY SYSTEM SELECTION 139p.pdf
2004 USDOD Electrical-Safety-Elec.Trans.&Distrib.Sys. 188p..pdf
2005 US Army Electrical-DC AC Formula Data 3p.pdf
How Do You Live Without Electricity 21p.pdf

Heating & Cooling
1990 US Navy Maint. & Op of Active Solar Heating Sys. 278p..pdf
1992 1992 USDOE Thermodynam.Heat Trans, Fluid Flow Vol.3 83p..pdf
1992 USDOE Thermodynam.Heat Trans,Fluid Flow Vol.1 139p..pdf
1995 USDOD Heating,Vent,Air Cond.Dehumid.Sys. 228p..pdf
2002 USDOD Active Solar Preheat Sys. 98p.pdf
2004 USDOD Heating Sys.-Op & Maintenance 283p.pdf
2004 USDOD Passive Solar Buildings 202p.pdf
2004 USDOD Solar Heating of Build. & Hot Water 168p..pdf
US Army Engineer Refriger & Air Cond I Fundamentals 87p..pdf

Hydraulics
1990 US Navy Fluid Power 207p.pdf
1994 US Army Basic Hydraulic Sys. & Components 68p.pdf
1994 US Army Basic Hydraulics, Hyd. Plumbing 77p.pdf
1997 US Army Hydraulics 173p.pdf
1999 US Army LUBRICANTS AND HYDRAULIC FLUIDS 191p.pdf

Machinist
1988 US Army Machinist Milling Machine Operations 82p..pdf
1988 US Army Machinist Milling Machine Operations 53p..pdf
1988 US Army Machinist Precision Measuring & Gaging Ed. 8 97p..pdf
1989 US Army Machinist Precision Measuring Instruments Ed.9 51p..pdf
1993 US Navy Machinist Machinery Repairman 437p.pdf
1996 US Army Machinist Fundamentals-Machine Tools 311p..pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Lathe Operations Ed. 8 141p.pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Machine Shop Calculation Ed.7 128p..pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Metal Prop. Characterists Uses, Codes 99p..pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Principles of Drafting,Shop Drawing 118p..pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Shop Safety Ed. 9 84p.pdf
1999 US Army Machinist Band Saw Operations Ed. 8 101p.pdf
2002 US Army COMMISSIONING OF MECHANICAL SYSTEMS 113p.pdf

Plumbing
1984 US Army GROUTING TECHNOLOGY 159p.pdf
1985 US Army Gravity Sewers & Appurtenances 31p.pdf
1985 US Army SANITARY & INDUSTRIAL WASTEWATER COLLECTION 32p.pdf
1986 DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE Plumbing 47p.pdf
1995 US Army Chemical Grouting 34p.pdf
1995 US Army GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF PUMPING 34p.pdf
1998 US Army Corps of Engineers Engineering & Design Conduits, Culverts & Pipes 87p.pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing I Prepare Plumbing Takeoff list 26p..pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing II Water Supply EN5111 79p.pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing III Waste Systems EN5112 103p.pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing IV Plumbing Fixtures EN5113 97p.pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing V Repair Valve,Fixture Control Devices 57p..pdf
1999 US Army Plumbing VI Clear Waste Systems Stoppages 33p.pdf
2001 US Army Plumbing,Pipe-Fitting,Sewerage 341p.pdf

Welding
1985 US Army Welding Design, Procedures, Inspect 97p..pdf
1991 US Navy Welding Materials Handbook 216p.pdf
1999 US Army Welding Operations Part II 81p..pdf
1999 US Army Welding Operations Part I 114p.pdf
1999 US Army Welding Theory 53p.pdf

Survival Skills
1959 CIVIL DEFENSE YOUR EMERGENCY PACK 5p.PDF
1960 CIVIL DEFENSE Operations and control of the Civil Defence Services 40p.pdf
1961 US Army FM 21-31 TOPOGRAPHIC SYMBOLS 147p.PDF
1963 DOD EMERCENCY RESCUE TRAINING SM14-1 57p.PDF
1968 DOD In Time of Emergency 92p.pdf
1969 Emergency Measurses Organization CEMO Emergency Disaster Preparations 26p.pdf
1969 US Army Vietnam Survival, Evasion & Escape 222p.pdf
1975 FEMA Civil Defense Shelters 9p.pdf
1981 US Army ORIENTEERING HOW TO AVOID GETTING LOST 23p.PDF
1982 US Marine Corps Survival 571p.pdf
1985 Air Force Search and Rescue SURVIVAL TRAINING 581p.pdf
1985 US Air Force Aircrew Survival 123p.pdf
1985 US Navy Aircrew Survival Equipmentman 1 & C 168p.pdf
1985 US Army survivalability 258p.pdf
1986 US Army Avia. Survival III Sustenance 109p.pdf
1986 US Army Soldiers Handbook for Individual Ops & Survival in Cold Weather Areas 80p.pdf
1987 FEMA Civil Preparedness Guide 23p.pdf
1989 Emergency Measurses Organization 11 Steps to Survival 26p.pdf
1989 FEMA Summaries of Soviet Civil Defense Research Reports 39p.pdf
1989 US Army Aircraft Crash Survival Design Guide Vol 2 132p.pdf
1990 US Army Aviation Battlefield Survivability 284p.pdf
1990 US Army POISONOUS SNAKEBITE TREATMENT 2p.PDF
1990 US Navy Aircrew Survival Equipmentman 2 405p.pdf
1991 US Army Water Survival Training TC 21-21 39p.pdf
1992 FEMA The Federal Response Plan (FRP) 305p.pdf
1992 US Army Survival 647p.pdf
1992 US Army FM 21-76 SURVIVAL FIELD MANUAL 646p.PDF
1992 US Army Survival Manual 647p.pdf
1992 US Marine Corps Survival 571p.pdf
1992 USMC Survival Manual MCRP 3-02F 572p.pdf
1993 US Army Avia. Survival I, Elements, Psych. Aspects 95p.pdf
1994 US Army Injurious Plants 2p.pdf
1995 US Army Survival, Evasion, Resistance & Escape (SERE) Training 19p.pdf
1996 ADVANCED SPOTTERS FIELD GUIDE 31p.PDF
1997 FEMA Guide For The Dev. of State Local Continuity Gov. Capability 21p.pdf
1998 Australia Aids to Survival 86p.pdf
1999 US Army Survival Evasion and Recovery ser manual 106p.pdf
1999 US Army Survival, Evasion, and Recovery 108p.pdf
1999 US Marine Corps Survival, Evasion, and Recovery 107p.pdf
1999 USMC Combat Water Survival 10p.pdf
2000 FIRE MAKING 3p.PDF
2000 US Marine Corps COLD WEATHER MANUAL 187p.pdf
2001 Army Basic Visual Tracking 30p.pdf
2001 PLANTS BAMBOO SOME USES AND FACTS 1p.PDF
2001 PLANTS BLUEBERRIES 1p.PDF
2001 PLANTS_BEANS 1p.PDF
2001 US Army Antiterrorism Individual Protective Measures 1p.pdf
2001 US Army Map Reading & Land Navigation 247p.pdf
2001 US Army Map Reading & Navigation 210p.pdf
2001 US Army MEDICAL ASPECTS OF HARSH ENVIRONMENTS VOL1 623p.PDF
2001 US Army MEDICAL ASPECTS OF HARSH ENVIRONMENTS VOL2 610p.PDF
2001 US Army SOLDIER HEALTH MAINTENANCE MANUAL TG 272 103p.PDF
2001 US Marine Corps MWTC Cold Weather Medicine Course 290p.pdf
2002 Fema Disaster Preparedness Survival Citizens Preparedness Guide 30p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps - MWTC Winter Survival Course Handbook 188p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps Assault Climbers Handbook (mountaineering) 296p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps MWTC Summer Survival Course Handbook 181p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps MWTC Wilderness Medicine Course 375p.pdf
2003 US Marine Corps Combat Water Survival MCRP 146p.pdf
2004 FEMA 7 DAY SUPPLY CALENDAR 4p.PDF
2004 Greenhouses 79p.pdf
2004 US Air Force AIRMAN'S MANUAL 262p.pdf
2005 Army COMBAT LIFESAVER TRAINING COURSE 399p.pdf
2005 FEMA course Decision Making and Problem Solving 122p.pdf
2005 MRC Physchological first aid in disasters 84p.pdf
2005 US Army How to avoid getting lost 24p.pdf
2005 US Army Infantry School Mountaineering Techniques (Advanced) 78p.pdf
2005 US Army Infantry School Mountaineering Techniques (Basic) 177p.pdf
2006 EMERGENCY PREPAREDNESS CHECKLIST 4p.PDF
2006 GrabGoBag 2p.pdf
2006 US Army CATASTROPHIC DISASTER RESPONSE STAFF OFFICERS HANDBOOK 292p .pdf
2007 EDIBLE AND MEDICINAL PLANTS 49p.PDF
2007 FEMA Homeland Security & Emergency Preparedness 7 Day Survival Kit 4p.pdf
2007 Homeland Security National Preparedness Guidelines 51p.pdf
2 Firearms Weapans & Survival Tactics

Sniper Training
1981 US Marine Corps Sniping FMFM 1-3B 203p.pdf
1994 US Army Sniper Training FM 23-10 328p.pdf
2003 US Army Special Forces Sniper Training & Employment FM 3-05.222 474p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Sniping MCWP 3-15.3 204p.pdf
US Army Primary Sniper Weapons of the World 8p.pdf

Survival Combat Skills & Marksmanship
1962 US Army Vietnam-Combat of Ind. Soldier,Patrolling 221p.pdf
1967 US Army Enemy Jungle Tactics Platoon Leaders 44p.pdf
1968 US Army Camouflage 105p.pdf
1984 US Army Combat Skills of the Soldier 250p.pdf
1984 US Army Military Explosives 356p.pdf
1985 US Army Survivability (Battlefield) 248p.pdf
1988 US Army Combat Training with Pistols & Revolvers 101p .pdf
1988 US Army Combat Training-Pistols & Revolvers 101p.pdf
1992 US Army Combat in Built up Areas Subcourse 211p.pdf
1993 US Army An Infantymans Guide to Combat in Built Up Areas 250p.pdf
1993 US Army Infantry Live Fire Training 142p.pdf
1993 US Army Infantrymans Combat Guide-Built Up Aeas 303p.pdf
1994 US Army Smoke Squad - Platoon Operations 208p.pdf
1997 US Army Ammunition and Expl Safety Standards 195p.pdf
1997 US Army Rappelling 146p.pdf
1997 US Army Standards In Weapons Training 181p.pdf
1997 US Army Standards in Weapons Training Special Operations Forces 66p.pdf
1997 US Army Topographic Operations 158p.pdf
1997 US Marine Corps Rifle Company 340p.pdf
1999 US Army Ammunition and Expl Safety Standards 304p.pdf
1999 US Army Camouflage, Concealment and Decoys 97p.pdf
1999 US Marine Corps Close Combat 113p.pdf
1999 USMC Close Combat 114p.pdf
1999 USMC Martial Arts 115p.pdf
2000 US Army Combat Stress FM 6-22.5 95p.pdf
2001 NAVY Captivity - The Extreme Circumstance 161p.pdf
2001 US Army Infantry Recon Platoon & Squad FM 7-92 328p.pdf
2001 US Army Infantry Rifle Platoon & Squad change 1 412p.pdf
2001 US Army Nonlethal Munitions 3p.pdf
2001 US Army Topographic Surveying 331p.pdf
2001 USMC Individual Terrorism Survival 139p.pdf
2002 US Army Combined Arms Breaching Operations 150p.pdf
2002 US Army Training Urban Operations 150p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps Combatting Terrorism 143p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps USMC Pistol Marksmanship 112p.pdf
2003 US Army Soldiers Handbook (Basic Initial Entry Training) 581p.pdf
2003 US Army Soldiers Manual of Common Tasks Skill Level 1 726p.pdf
2003 US Army Combat Training with Pistols, M9,M11 72p.pdf
2003 US Army IET Initial Entry Training Soldier Hndbk 582p.pdf
2003 US Army Religous Support 202p.pdf
2003 US Army Soldiers Manual of Common Tasks Skill Level 2, 3, 4 476p.pdf
2003 US Army Stryker BCT Battalion Recon Platoon 346p.pdf
2003 US Army Urban Operations 350p.pdf
2003 US Marine Corps Pistol Marksmanship 111p.pdf
2004 THE SOLDIER'S GUIDE 435p.pdf
2004 US Army Military Guide To 21st Cent. Terrorism 365p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps MAGTF Breaching Operations 169p.pdf
2006 US Army Close Combat Course 9p.pdf
2006 US Army Soldier's Common Tasks - Warrior Skills 1 697p.pdf
2006 US Army Urban Operations 317p.pdf
2008 US Marine Corps FUNDAMENTALS OF MARINE CORPS MARTIAL ARTS 149p.pdf
2008 US Marine Corps Martial Arts Program 35p.pdf
US Army Boxing West Point Trainers Manual 51p.pdf
US Army Infantry School Mountaineering Techniques Basic 178p.pdf
US Army Nat. Grnd Intel Center Improv Explosives-Iraq 23p.pdf
US Army Obstical Course,Falling,Stretch from FM 21-150 28p.pdf
US Army Pistol Marksmanship Training Guide 95p.pdf
2002 US Army M-2 50 CAL 381p.pdf
2004 US Army M-107 SNIPER RIFLE 253p.pdf
1942 US Army StenID 46p.pdf
1942 WWII - British Sten Mk II Carbine 9mm 10p.pdf

Survival Firearms & Ammunition
1917 US Army WWI M1917 Enfield (1917, US GPO) 34p.pdf
1942 US Army WWII Thompson Submachine Gun .45 15p.pdf
1950 US Army M20 luncher 116p.pdf
1981 US Army Sniping 203p.pdf
1981 US Army Principles of artillery weapons 132p.pdf
1984 US Army .50 Cal Machinegun Maint. & OP.113p.pdf
1985 US Army OM - M16A1 155p.pdf
1985 US Army OM - M9 9mm 121p.pdf
1986 TECHNICAL MANUALBAYONET-KNIFE, M6, WITH BAYONET-KNIFE SCABBARD, M10 (1095-00-014-0369 102p.pdf
1987 US Army M4 CARBINE 5.56MM 57p.pdf
1990 TECHNICAL MANUAL LAUNCHER AND CARTRIDGE,84 MILLIMETER M136 (AT4) 116p.pdf
1991 US Army Browining MG Caliber 50 HB M2 210p.pdf
1991 US Army OPS MANUAL FOR 66 MM LIGHT ANTITANK WEAPON (LAW) 40p.pdf
1993 US Army REMOTE CONTROL LAND MINE 133p.pdf
1994 US Army M4A1 CARBINE 5.56MM 59p.pdf
1994 US Army TOW Weapon System 313p.pdf
1996 US Army Antiarmor Weapons Subcourse Vol B 80p.pdf
1996 US Marine Corps Machine Guns and Machine Gun Gunnery 431p.pdf
1996 US Marnie Corps Machine Guns and Machine Gunnery 407p.pdf
1998 US Army M60 Machinegun Maintenance & Op. 221p.pdf
1998 US Army Tactical Employment of Nonlethal Weapons 92p.pdf
2000 US Army Air Defense Artillery Reference Handbook 138p.pdf
2000 US Army Basic Rifle Markmanship Coaches Checklist 2p.pdf
2000 US Army BASIC RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP COACHES CHECKLIST 2p.pdf
2000 US Army Shooting Straight 20 Years of Marksmanship Research 38p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps M9 Service Pistol SCRS 1006 14p.pdf
2001 DOD Russian Ballistic Rockets & Missiles 27p.pdf
2001 US Army Light Anti-Armor Weapons 137p.pdf
2001 US Army Ammunition Handbook Tactics, Techniques & Procedures for Munitions Handlers 242p.pdf
2001 US Army Light Antiarmor Weapons 137p.pdf
2001 US Army M-242 901p.pdf
2001 US Army M47 Dragon Med Antitank Weapon Sys. 149p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Rifle Marksmanship 116p.pdf
2002 US Army Browning Machine Gun Caliber .50 HB, M2 with change 2 247p.pdf
2002 US Army Long Standoff Warheads for Armor, Masonry & Concrete Targets 27p.pdf
2003 US Army Military Us Army Fm 3 22 68 Machine Gun 330ps.pdf
2003 US Army Movement Control 278p.pdf
2003 US Army Range Safety 24p.pdf
2003 US Army RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP M16A1, M16A23, M16A4 & M4 CARBINE 353p.pdf
2003 US Army TACTICAL EMPLOYMENT OF NONLETHAL WEAPONS 169p.pdf
2003 US Army TOW WEAPON SYSTEMS 193p.pdf
2004 US Army Training Ranges 169p.pdf
2005 US Army Identifying Ammunition Subcourse 78p.pdf
2006 SMALL ARMS INTEGRATION BOOKLET 448p.pdf
2006 US Army SHOULDER LAUNCHED MUNITIONS fm3_23x25 193p.pdf
US Army M21 Sniper Weapon System 16p.pdf
US Army Weapon Handling Procedures 3p.pdf
1964 US Army MAINTENANCE MANUAL PISTOL CAL .45, AUTOMATIC, M1911 A1 48p.pdf
1968 MACHINE GUNS, CALIBER .50; BROWNING, M2, HEAVY BARREL 277p.pdf
1985 Army Machine gun,caliber.50 fixed,M85 269p .pdf
2001 Army MACHINE GUNS, CALIBER .50; M2, HEAVY BARREL 489p.pdf
2002 Army MACHINE GUNS, CALIBER.50 M2, HEAVY BARREL 381p.pdf
ARMY AK-47 Operators Manual 43p.pdf
US Army AK 47 OPERATORS MANUAL 46p.pdf

Ammunition
1984 DIA Small-Caliber Ammuntion Identification Guide 232p.pdf
1987 ARMY Amunition Data Sheets for Small Caliber Firearms 326p.pdf
1989 US Army Data Sheets Ammunition Peculiar Equipment 648p.pdf
1991 US Army Data Sheets for Cartridges, Cartridge Activated Devices 238p.pdf
1993 ARMY Ammunition, General 244p.pdf
1993 US Army Conventional Ammunition Unit Operations 101p.pdf
1994 AMMO DATA SHEETS SMALL CALIBER AMMUNITION 202p.pdf
1994 ARMY Ammo Data Sheets 888p.pdf
1994 US Army Army Ammunition Data Sheets 913p.pdf
1994 US Army Ammunition Data Sheets for Grenades 107p.pdf
1994 US Army Ammunition Data Sheets For Land Mines 136p.pdf
1994 US Army Ammunition Data Sheets for Land Mines 131p.pdf
1994 US Army Ammunition Data Sheets Military Pyrotechnics 101p.pdf
1994 US Army Data Sheets For Demolition Materials 240p.pdf
1994 US Army Data Sheets Guns, Howizers, Mortars, Rifles, Gren Launchers 860p.pdf
1994 US Army Large Ammo Data Sheets TM_43-0001-28 914p.pdf
1994 US Army SMALL ARMS AMMO TO 30 MILLIMETER INCLUSIVE 75p.pdf
1996 US Army Ammunition Data Sheets Small Caliber Ammunition 325p.pdf
2001 US Army Ammo Handbook Tactics, Techniquesn & Procedures for Munitions Handlers 241p.pdf
2005 ARMY Small Arms Ammo - Hot Weather, Desert Ops 3p.pdf
2003 ARMY Ammunition Storage 75p.pdf
1999 ARMY Interpreting Ammo Markings and Color Codes 20p.pdf
1970 US Army RIFLE CALIBER .30, AUTOMATIC BROWNING, M1918A2, WE 56p.pdf
1996 US Amry RIFLE, CALIBER .30, AUTOMATIC BROWNING, M1918A2, WE 57p.pdf
2002 US ARMY Browning .50 cal Machine Gun 247p.pdf
1984 ARMY M203 40mm Grenade Launcher 108p.pdf
1984 OPERATOR'S MANUAL GRENADE LAUNCHER, 40-MM M203 251p.pdf
1993 LAUNCHER, GRENADE, 40MM, M203, WE 199p.pdf
2003 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 150p.pdf
2003 ARMY 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 145p.pdf
2003 US Army 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 February 159p.pdf
2003 US Army 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 version II 144p.pdf
2003 US Army 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 160p.pdf
2003 US Army 40mm Grenade Launcher M203 Vol 2 145p.pdf
2006 M315 NONLETHAL, TURRET-MOUNTED, 66-MILLIMETER GRENADE LAUNCHER 6p.pdf
2002 Army M240 SERIES MACHINE GUNS 357p.pdf
2002 OPERATOR'S MANUAL FOR MACHINE GUN, 7.62MM, M240 261p.pdf
1984 MACHINE GUN, 5.56MM, M249 275p.pdf
1991 OPERATOR'S MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 5.56MM, M249 239p .pdf
1985 ARMY 9mm M9 Pistol Use & Maintenance 121p.pdf
1987 ARMY M9 9mm Pistol Tm 9-1005 127p.pdf
2000 TECHNICAL MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40 MM, MK 19 MOD 3 605p.pdf
2001 OPERATOR'S MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40MM, MK19, MOD 3 407p.pdf
2003 .MK 19, 40-mm GRENADE MACHINE GUN, MOD 3 250p.pdf
2000 TECHNICAL MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40 MM, MK 19 MOD 3 605p.pdf
2001 OPERATOR'S MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40MM, MK19, MOD 3 407p.pdf
2003 .MK 19, 40-mm GRENADE MACHINE GUN, MOD 3 250p.pdf
2000 TECHNICAL MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40 MM, MK 19 MOD 3 605p.pdf
2001 OPERATOR'S MANUAL MACHINE GUN, 40MM, MK19, MOD 3 407p.pdf
2003 .MK 19, 40-mm GRENADE MACHINE GUN, MOD 3 250p.pdfMortars
1991 Mortar gunnery 203p.pdf
1992 US Army Tactical Employment of Mortars 328p.pdf
1992 US Marine Corps Tactical Employment of Mortars 329p.pdf
2000 ARMY Mortar Gunnery FM 23-91 425p.pdf
2000 US Army Mortar Gunnery 346p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Mortars 412p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Mortars Gunnery 346p.pdf
2002 ARMY Mortars 348p.pdf
2002 MORTAR TRAINING STRATEGY 149p.pdf
M16 Series
1960 ARMY Vietnam - M16A1 Rifle CARTOON Manual 18p.pdf
1983 ARMY M16 Rifle Manual TM 9-1005 203p.pdf
1985 ARMY M16 and M16A1 rifles Maint. & Op. 155p.pdf
1986 PORT FIRING WEAPON 132p.pdf
1987 M16 MAINTENANCE MANUAL 326p.pdf
1993 ARMY M16A2 5.56mm Rifle 67p.pdf
1995 US Army Field Firing the M16A2 Rifle 163p.pdf
2004 US ARMY How to Zero an M16A2 Rifle 5p.pdf
M16 Series(-10).pdf
M16 Series(-23&P).pdf
TM 209-1005-249-23&P.pdf

MARKSMANSHIP
1994 US ARMY SNIPER TRAINING 330p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP 118p.pdf
2003 FM 3-22.9 - Rifle Marksmanship (M16 & M4) 354p.pdf
2003 Us Army Fm 3-22.9 (23-9) Rifle Marksmanship m16a1, m16a2-3, m16a4, & m4 Carbine 354p.pdf
2003 USA RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP 354p.pdf
1999 US Army Pistol Training Guide 95p.pdf

Sighting And Night Vision
1985 US Army Ops Manual NIGHT VISION SIGHT SET INFRARED AN UAS-11 131p.pdf
1995 US Army OPERATOR'S MANUAL MELIOS 120p.pdf
2000 US Army LIGHT, AIMING,INFRARED TECHNICAL MANUAL PAQ-4B 188p.pdf
2000 US Army TELESCOPE, STRAIGHT M145 257p.pdf
2004 US Army M68 SIGHT, REFLEX, WQUICK RELEASE MOUNT & SIGHT MOUNT 177p.pdf
1994 US Army TEST SET, ELECTRONIC SYSTEMS 188p.pdf
2000 US Army TECHNICAL MANUAL LIGHT, AIMING,INFRARED,PAQ-4B 187p.pdf
1976 US Army TECHNICAL MANUAL VIEWER INFRARED ANPAS-7 104p.pdf
1979 US Army HAND RECEIPT MANUAL VIEWER, INFRARED ANPAS-7 9p.pdf
2000 US Army Op's Manual Monocular night vision device (MNVD) ANPVS-14 143p.pdf
2000 US Army TECH MANUAL MONOCULAR NIGHT VISION DEVICE (MNVD)ANPVS-14 143p.pdf
1993 US Army NIGHT VISION SIGHT,INDIVIDUAL SERVED WEAPON AN PVS-4 110p.pdf
1993 US Army OPs MANUAL NIGHT VISION SIGHT INDIVIDUAL SERVED WEAPON ANPVS-4 137p.pdf
1993 US Army OPERATOR'S MANUAL NIGHT VISION GOGGLES ANPVS-5 AND ANPVS-5A 181p.pdf
1993 US Army TECHNICAL MANUAL NIGHT VISION GOGGLES ANPVS-5 AND ANPVS-5A 234p.pdf
1993 US Army Mini Eyesafe Laser Infrared Observation Set AN PVS-6 90p.pdf
1996 US Army Mini Eyesafe Laser Infrared Observation Set AN PVS-6 101p.pdf
2000 US Army OPS MANUAL NIGHT VISION GOGGLES (NVG)ANPVS-7B 160p.pdf
2000 US Army TECHNICAL MANUAL ANPVS-7BL 120p.pdf
1992 US Army TEST SETS, ELECTRONICS SYSTEM TS-3895UV 85p.pdf
1993 US Army TEST SET, AVIATOR'S NIGHT VISION IMAGING SYSTEM TS-3895UV 150p.pdf
1979 US Army NIGHT VISION SIGHT, CREW SERVED WEAPON ANTVS-5 9p.pdf
1989 US Army OPS MANUAL NIGHT VISION SIGHT, CREW SERVED WEAPON ANTVS-5 91p .pdf
1994 US Army TECH MANUAL NIGHT VISION SIGHT,CREW SERVED WEAPONANTVSÂ–5 65p.pdf
1980 US Army VIEWER, DRIVER'S NIGHT VISION ANVVs-2(V)1 12p.pdf
1994 US Army OPERATOR'S MANUAL VIEWERS, DRIVER'S NIGHT VISION 61p.pdf
1997 US Army TECHNICAL MANUAL VIEWERS, DRIVER'S NIGHT VISION 154p.pdf

Survival Tactics & Urban Ops
1979 US Army Military Ops Urbanized Terrain MOUT 237p.pdf
1985 US Army Rear Battle 121p.pdf
1985 US Army Survivability 258p.pdf
1985 US Marine Corps Civil Disturbances 161p.pdf
1987 US Army Tactical Single Chan. Radio Techniques 187p.pdf
1989 US Army Fire Support for Corps & Division Ops 245p.pdf
1989 US Army Weather Support For Army Tactical Ops 147p.pdf
1990 US Army Fire Support for Brigade Operations 305p.pdf
1991 US Army Tactical Record Traffic Sys. 148p.pdf
1991 US Marine Corps Fire Support in Marine Air-Ground Operations 59p.pdf
1992 US Army Tactical Employment of Mortars FM 7-90 297p.pdf
1993 US Army ARMY DOMESTIC SUPPORT 129p.pdf
1993 US Army Infantry Div.Ops Tatics,Techniq,Procedures 521p.pdf
1993 US Army Infantry Platoon Tactics & Ops 403p.pdf
1993 US Army Training for Military Ops on Urban Terrain 164p.pdf
1995 US Army ATC Contingency & Combat Zone Ops 63p.pdf
1996 US Army Infantry-Based Opposing Force 400p.pdf
1998 US Marine Corps Military Operations on Urbanized Terrain MOUT MCWP 369p.pdf
1998 US Marine Corps Military Ops on Urban Terrain (MOUT) 369p.pdf
1999 US Army Sniper Weapon Fire Control Error Budget Analysis 85p.pdf
1999 US Army Urban Warfare 12.pdf
1999 US Marines Corps Warfighting Corporal 5 Files 89p
2000 DOD Handbook for Joint Urban Operations 21p.pdf
2001 AVIATION URBAN OPERATIONS 126p.pdf
2001 US Army Aviation Urban Operations FM 3-06.1 125p.pdf
2001 US Army Tactics FM 3-90 563p.pdf
2001 US Marine Corps Fire Support Coordination in The Ground Combat Element 260p.pdf
2002 DOD Doctrine for Joint Urban Operationss 152p.pdf
2002 US Army Combined Arms Operations in Urban Terrain FM 3-06.11 643p.pdf
2002 US Army Combined Arms Ops in Urban Terrain 644p.pdf
2002 US Army Tactical Empl. Antiarmor Platoon,Company 350p.pdf
2002 US Army Training for Urban Operations 149p.pdf
2003 US Army Opposing Force Doctrinal Framework & Strategy 165p.pdf
2003 US Army Urban Operations FM 3-06 349p.pdf
2005 Military Guide To Terrorism 281p.pdf
2005 US Army Tactics,Techniq,Proced. Hi Freq. Radios 109p.pdf
1999 US Marines Corps Warfighting Corporal 5 Files 89p
1999 US Marine Corps Human Dimention 15p.PDF
1999 US Marine Corps Physical Dimention 16p.PDF
1999 US Marine Corps Troop Leading Steps 16p.PDF
1999 US Marine Corps Urban Warfare 14p.PDF

3 Survival Others
1787 The US Constitution of the United States of America 34p.pdf
1978 US Army Piano and Guitar 70p.pdf
1986 US Navy Music Ear Training For Musicians 95p..pdf
1991 US Army Realistic Drawing 87p.pdf
1991 US Navy Basic Music 65p.pdf
1993 US Navy Photography Advanced 481p.pdf
1994 US Army Photography Intro to Portraits 64p..pdf
1995 US Air Force INSTALLATIONS AND FACILITIES 9p.pdf
1995 US Navy Photography Advanced 227p.pdf
1995 US Navy Training Course Photography Advanced 227p.pdf
1998 DOD AMMUNITION HAZARD CLASSIFICATION 102p.pdf
1998 USMC Personal Financial Management 152p.pdf
1999 US Army Bands (Music) FM 12-50 20p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Environmental Considerations in Military Ops 235p.pdf
2002 USMC About Iraq Intro to Country,People 124p..pdf
2003 Constitution of the United States 11p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Field Feeding Program 65p.pdf
2005 US Army Band Section Leader Handbook 71p.pdf
2005 US Marine Corps Afghanistan Intro to Country & People 68p.pdf
2006 200 High Resolution WWII War Photographs E-Book 202p.pdf
2007 US Marine Corps Return & Reunion Guide for Marines and Families 21p.pdf
2008 US Army Pakistans NuclearFuture Worries Beyond War 285p.pdf
2008 US Army Public Communications 64p.pdf
6th Cen BC The Art Of War Sun Tzu 44p.pdf
USMC Iraqi Culture Brief 6p.pdf

Survival disk 2

Air Assault Ops And Aviation
1987 US Army Air Assault Operations 223p.pdf
1987 US Army Aviation Self deployment Planning 33p.pdf
1990 US Army Joint suppresion of enemy air defenses 56p.pdf
1994 US Air Force COMPTROLLER OPERATIONS UNDER EMERGENCY CONDITIONS 34 p.pdf
1994 US Air Force MOBILITY FOR AIR FORCE SPECIAL OPERATIONS COMMAND (AFSOC) FORCES 18p.pdf
1994 US Air Force SPACE OPERATIONS 4p.pdf
1995 US Air Force AGREEMENTS FOR CIVIL AIRCRAFT USE OF AIR FORCE AIRFIELDS 10p.pdf
1995 US Air Force CIVIL AIRCRAFT LANDING PERMITS 33p.pdf
1995 US AIR FORCE READY RESERVE STIPEND PROGRAM (PA) 5p.pdf
1996 US Air Force SPACE 13p.pdf
1996 US Air Force USE OF INSTALLATIONS FOR NON-GOVERNMENT BUSINESS BY CIVIL AIR CARRIERS 29p.pdf
1996 US Army Operators Manual for UH-60A, UH-60L, EH-60A Helicopter 841p.pdf
1997 US Air Force FOREIGN AIRCRAFT LANDINGS AT UNITED STATES AIR FORCE INSTALLATIONS 8p.pdf
1997 US Air Force FOREIGN AIRCRAFT USE OF UNITED STATES AIR FORCE AIRFIELDS 3p.pdf
1997 US Air Force RAPID RUNWAY REPAIR OPERATIONS 227p.pdf
1997 US Army Army Aviation 166p.pdf
1997 US Army Attack Helicopter Operations 352p..pdf
1997 US Army Utility and Cargo Helicopter Operations 180p.pdf
1997 US Army Utility and Cargo Helicopter Ops 180p.pdf
1998 US Air Force AIR AND SPACE DOCTRINE 6p.pdf
1998 US Air Force AIR AND SPACE DOCTRINE EDUCATION 6p.pdf
1999 US Air Force FEDERAL CIVILIAN DEPLOYMENT GUIDE 39p.pdf
1999 US Army Combined Arms for Air Defense 69p.pdf
1999 US Army COMBINED ARMS FOR AIR DEFENSE 70p.pdf
1999 US Army Combined Arms for Air Defense 69p.pdf
2000 US Air Force GUIDE TO FIGHTINGPOSITIONS, OBSTACLES,AND REVETMENTS 109p.pdf
2000 US Air Force GUIDE TO HARVEST FALCON ELECTRICAL SYSTEM INSTALLATION 118p.pdf
2001 US Air Force BOARD OF GOVERNORS OF THE CIVIL AIR PATROL 5p.pdf
2001 US Air Force Space Launch Vehicle Return to Flight 5p.pdf
2003 US AIR FORCE EMERGENCY NOTIFICATION SIGNALS 1p.pdf
2004 US Air Force OPS PLANNING AIR & SPACE EXPEDITIONARY FORCE PRESENCE POLICY 2p.pdf
2004 US Army Op Manual Chinook Helicopter 715p.pdf
2004 US Dept Of Transportation Airplane Flying Handbook 282p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Helicopterborne Operations 136p.pdf
2005 US Air Force AIR AND SPACE DOCTRINE 17p.pdf
2005 US Air Force CIVIL AIR PATROL 5p.pdf
2005 US Air Force GUIDE FOR USE OF THE MINIMUM AIRFIELD OPERATING SURFACE MARKING SYSTEM 77p.pdf
2005 US Air Force ORGANIZATION AND FUNCTION OF THE CIVIL AIR PATROL 36p.pdf
2006 US Air Force COMBAT AIR FORCES AVIATION SCHEDULING 26p.pdf
2006 US Air Force EMERGENCY AIRFIELD LIGHTING SYSTEM (EALS) 131p.pdf
2006 US Air Force GUIDE TO MOBILE AIRCRAFT ARRESTING SYSTEM INSTALLATION 163p.pdf
2006 US Air Force GUIDE TO SERVICES CONTINGENCY PLANNING MORTUARY AFFAIRS SEARCH & RECOVERY 139p.pdf
2006 US Air Force HOMELAND DEFENSE AND CIVIL SUPPORT 20p.pdf
2006 US Air Force READINESS 6p.pdf
2006 US AIR RESERVE COMPONENT FORCES 6p.pdf
2007 US Air Force WORLDWIDE AEROMEDICALEVACUATION OPERATIONS 4p.pdf

CIA & Military Intelligence Operations
1954 US Army Korea UFO Official Manual 25p.pdf
1983 CIA Human Resource Exploitation Manual 124p.pdf
1986 US Army division intelligence & electronic warefare ops 242p.pdf
1990 US Army Foreign Interneal Defense Tactics Techniques 1994.pdf
1990 US Army Intel. Analysis FM 34-3 429p.pdf
1990 US Army Intelligence Analysis 430p.pdf
1990 US Army Terrain Analysis 206p.pdf
1991 US Army Reconaissance,Surveillance, Intel Support to Counterreconaissance 229p.pdf
1991 US Army Soviet Army troops organization
1991 US Army Tactics,techniques,procedures Reconnisance Surveillance Intelligence 228p.pdf
1991 US Army The Soviet Army Troops Organization and Equipment 456p.pdf
1992 US Army Intel. Interrogation FM 34-52 177p.pdf
1992 US Army Intelligence Interrogation 178p.pdf
1993 CIA Analytic Thinking & Presentation for Intelligence Analysis Training Handbook.pdf
1993 US Army Use of Intelligence Products IT0552 135p.pdf
1994 US Army Intelligence and Electronic Warfare Operations 126p.pdf
1994 US Army Intelligence Preparation of the Battlefield 280p.pdf
1994 US Army Introduction to the Intel. Analyst 31p.pdf
1994 US Army Introduction to the Intelligence Analyst Course 31p.pdf
1995 US Army Captured Document Handling IT0597 35p.pdf
1995 US Army Counter Intelligence FM 34-60 229p.pdf
1995 US Army Counterintelligence 230p.pdf
1995 US Army Intel. Preparation Of The Battlefield 279p.pdf
1995 US Army Interrogation Approaches IT0599 31p.pdf
1995 US Army Interrogation Operations IT0606 80p.pdf
1995 US Army Interrogation Training Approaches 21p.pdf
1996 US Navy Intel Specialist 3 & 2, Volume 1 402p.pdf
1996 US Army Interrogation - Use of Interpreters 23p.pdf
1997 US Army Strategic Intelligence IT0583 94p.pdf
1997 DOD North Korea Country Handbook 429p.pdf
1997 US Army Interrogation Questioning Techniques 35p.pdf
1997 US Army Questioning Techniques, Edition C 24p.pdf
1998 US Army Intel. in Support of Internal Defense Ops 63p.pdf
1998 US Army Intel. Officers Handbook FM 34-8-2 212p.pdf
1998 US Army Engineer Reconaissance 264p.pdf
1998 US Army Intel. in Combatting Terrorism IT0468 98p.pdf
1998 US Army Intelligence Officer's Handbook 213p.pdf
1998 US Army Interrogation - Screening Operations 48p.pdf
1998 US Army Interrogation-Terminate an Interrogation 23p.pdf
1998 US Army Intro to Battlefield Tech Intelligence 57p.pdf
1998 US Army Prepare Analysis of Battlefield Area 85p.pdf
1998 US Army Technical Intelligence FM 34-54 191p.pdf
1998 US Marine Corps Reconaissance Reports Guide 158p.pdf
1999 US Army Intelligence Officer Responsibilities 51p.pdf
1999 US Air Force CRIMINAL INVESTIGATIONS AND COUNTERINTELLIGENCE 6p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Geographic Intelligence (GEOINT) 202p.pdf
2000 US Air Force COUNTERINTELLIGENCE 7p.pdf
2000 US Army Information Security Program 312p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Counterintelligence MCWP 2-6 287p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Geographic Intelligence 204p.pdf
2000 US Marine Corps Rear Area Operations 95p.pdf
2001 US Army Combat Commanders Handbook on Intelligence 75p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps Imagery Intelligence MCWP 2-15.4 210p.pdf
2002 US Army Tactical Human Intelligence & Counterintelligence Ops 84p.pdf
2002 US Marine Corps Imagery Intelligence (IMINT) 210p.pdf
2003 US Army Information Operations FM 3-13 314p.pdf
2004 DOD Joint TTP for Foreign Internal Defense 168p.pdf
2004 US Army Intelligence FM 2-0 211p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Geographic Intelligence 203p.pdf
2004 US Marine Corps Reconaissance Reports Guide 157p.pdf
2005 US Army PSYOPS Psychological Ops Leaders Plan Guide 80p.pdf
2008 US Marine Corps Iraq-An Introduction to the Country and People 123p.pdf
2009 DOD Measurement and Signature Intelligence 14p.pdf

1991 US Army Soviet Army troops organization
1991 US Army Soviet Army troops organization & equipment part 1 189p.pdf
1991 US Army Soviet Army troops organization & equipment part 2 115p.pdf
1991 US Army Soviet Army troops organization & equipment part 3 152p.pdf

US Army imagery intelligence (IMINT) courses
1991 US Army Analyze Electrical Power Industries on Aerial Imagery 89p.pdf
1991 US Army Analyze Fabrication Industries on Aerial Imagery 55p.pdf
1991 US Army Analyze Industries in General & Extraction Industries on Aerial Imagery 44p.pdf
1991 US Army Analyze Military Activities & Installations on Aerial Imagery 59p.pdf
1991 US Army Analyze Processing Industries on Aerial Imagery 123p.pdf
19

Don passed away the end of February I will be removing his name from the computer

     Don's wife     frosty130@...
| 838|838|2011-04-30 15:18:00|Noel Alford|(no subject)|
http://lawociro.t35.com/

--
Noel Alford
Imaging Consultant
601.540.3300
noel.alford@...| 839|839|2011-09-30 16:18:50|thinwaterboats|Lost receiver print need help|
Now that my machine shop (tacticalmachining.com) is making a little bit of money, I have time to go back and work on my Gatling gun. I bought the D E prints many years ago and drug them out to finish my build. They are all there except the receiver print.

Could someone please scan or take a photo of the receiver print and email it to thinwaterboats@... ?

I will post pictures of the build and get some forum action going again if I can find this print. I will be using a Haas VF2 SS mill and SL10 lathe for the build.

Thanks,

JIM
| 840|839|2011-09-30 20:25:25|John Valukievic|Re: Lost receiver print need help|
Jim, let me see if I can find mine, packed them away, awaiting to start the project yet

John
| 841|841|2011-12-18 19:56:43|dave|Gatling forum|
A new one here, in depth articles on the d&e rgg and some scratch builds.
http://www.gatlinggunforum.com/forum/index.php
| 842|842|2011-12-24 19:32:04|messerschmittfan|Final List of stolen gun kits and guns stolen on 10 Dec 2011 in Tucs|
1) A 1918a2 BAR complete parts kit, including proper bipod and carrying handle as well as a sling, most parts are WWII dated and ten magazines It included an early Robery Landies Dummy receiver bought in 1994. The kit had the rare bolt guides and top cover.  The receiver also includes an early Philadelphia Ordnance receiver from 1994.   The barrel is dated 11/43 for New England Arms. The rifling is excellent with no pitting; gauged with CMP guage at 2.   The rear sight on the receiver was a little bent, but there was a new sight with the extra parts. Magazines were still in paper and in a magazine belt marked Belt, Magazine, BAR M1937, 74-B-240, Concord -1951

2) A 1918a2 BAR parts kit with a cut receiver but with extra receiver parts (overlapping six pieces). Barrel was Winchester 1943. This kit had one magazine with it and a NOS bipod.

3) A 1919a4 complete parts kit from Iron Creations with an 80% side plate, tripod, 7.62 NATO barrel, 30-06 barrel, proper barrel boosters and cartridge stop for barrels.

4) A 1919a4 complete parts kit with loads of accessories and side plate; to include eight new cloth belts most still in plastic wrap, anti-aircraft sight, all new semi-auto internals from Black Bear MfG, 90% finished side plate (needed rivet holes drilled through as they were only partial), new scope mount for frame (Azexarms.com). The gun was ex-Isreal Army in 7.62 but it was like new before being made into a parts kit. I purchased from a member of the 1919a4 forums who needed the money and I paid his price.

5) A complete conversion kit for the 1919a4 to 1919a6 from Iron Creations, mixed US and Israeli parts. All new, barrel 30-06

6) Czech ZK383 complete (rare) parts kit with most of touch cut receiver, and bi-pod. Wood stock was in good (-) condition and the front hand grip wood was much darker in color than the stock. Complete with magazine.

7) New Cobray 37mm Flare launcher with mounts for AR15/M16. New, never used.

8) A 1910 Maxim MG wheeled mount with piano shaped lock box plus shield mount pin and shield. Purchased from IMA as excellent condition.

9) MP34 Parts set, cut receiver, overall condition very good with magazine. In the ejection port (right side) are seven small notches that appear to have been made by a pry bar.

10) PPSH 41 complete semi-auto kit, uncut trunion, 16" barrel mounted, new drilled barrel shroud for 16" barrel, semi-auto bolt and fire control unit. Six extra pieces of the vented cover for overlapping and extending the original vent cover. Two 72 round drum (with carriers) and four "stick" magazines. Kit was Polish and in excellent condition.

11) New repair section for front and rear of MG42 receiver for semi-auto build.

12) ZB 30 parts kit, torch cut, 8mm (7.92x57) barrel, one magazine, overall condition fair plus.

13) Lanchaster SMG parts kit with dummy receiver with 32 round magazine. Very good condition. Serial number 32300.

14) Lanchaster SMG parts kit with cut receiver, and 50 round magazine, very good condition.

15) FAL FN parts kit, cut receiver, included Para barrel in addition to standard as well as Para stock with standard stock and three magazines. Has 2 x USA made new gas pistons, extra stripped lower receiver three sets of pistol grips, two bolts, most parts for making two FAL semi-auto guns. One unfinished Century Arms receiver marked Century Arms, Georgia R1Aa made in USA. Included was instruction sheet for finishing receiver. Overall condition good plus.

16) Semi-auto MG 42/53 semi-auto pistol grip complete. New made, never unpacked.

17) Maxim Belt loader in wooden carrying case, for Russian WWII Maxim M1910. Excellent like new condition. Serial number 2005 on top of main unit. Manufactured by VKT. Instructions on use on inside lid right side held on with small nails. On outside of lid above the carrying handle lid is stamped with the Finnish Army SA markings and inspectors stamp. Carrying handle marked KELLCKCSK.

18) AR10 Bayonet Sudanese M1959. Very good plus condition and rare.

19) Original mid-50's AR 10 receivers, saw cut, two fronts, three rear sections. Front sections marked Armalite AR10 mfd by (Armalite trade mark) Nederland. Bolt carrier, trigger unit, grips with retaining screw, hammer, and misc small parts; RARE.

20) MG 42 complete excellent German parts kit with three saw cut receiver. Front support not cut. Suppose to be a all matching gun. Rear of receiver marked 1943 but was cut through rest of markings. All of the other major parts that are waffenamted marked are from the same inspection stamp. Rear stock marked 1344 on left side as was the top feed cover.

21) MG 42 German torch cut receiver with some M53 parts, very good parts kit, has Canadian made Flat receiver parts that fit together with notches, inside rails complete with bipod. The receiver parts consisted of seven flat pieces, one of which was the main receiver part with all of the holes and stampings. It just needed to be folded and welded. The front of the receiver was cleaned and fitted with a new front unit that had not been welded yet.

22) M53 Yugo torch four cut receiver, not cut at front, very good parts kit, complete with bipod. Top plate marked with the Yugo crest and serial number 56712.

23) DROR 1st model MG (machine rifle) kit in 303! Very rare, looks like M1944 Johnson LMG. Torch cut receiver, excellent two barrels and 3 extra magazines (look like Johnson MG magazines but in 303). Has extra bolt assembly, Wood very good.

24) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57). Torch cut receiver four pieces. Complete with four magazines. Very good plus.

25) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57). Torch cut receiver three pieces. Complete with magazine. Looks like new gun was cut, excellent condition.

26) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57). Torch cut receiver four pieces. Complete with four magazines. Good condition.

27) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and stick magazine. Bottom plate for replacement of cut parts.

28) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and stick magazine. Bottom plate for replacement of cut parts and semi-auto tube blank and 16" barrel.

29) Four Suomi M31 72 round drum magazines.

30) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum.

31) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and 4 stick magazines.

32) Excellent condition M38 Beretta parts kit, cut receiver, one magazine, stock and receiver marked 13887.

33) Excellent condition M38a Beretta parts kit, cut receiver, one magazine.

34) Beretta M38a kit with semi auto receiver and vented tube blank, extended flash suppressor for 16" barrel, 16" barrel, converted bolt, semi-auto trigger group,oiler, magazine pouch, four magazines, sling, cleaning kit. This was a complete kit to make a semi-auto M38a in very good plus condition.

35) Beretta M38a kit with some semi-auto conversion parts, including a reduced diameter Prexis bolt ($75 value) for building an approved semi-auto version. The original 3-cut de-milled barrel (included had a hole drilled in the rear threaded area and half way up the barrel) was replaced with new 16" 9mm barrel; de-milled original receiver, a reduced dia. receiver tube with milling template (most holes were cut), converted bolt and firing/trigger group, one mag, orig. sling and mag pouch. Shroud is in excellent shape.

36) Complete saw cut MG34 receiver with cams, four pieces.

37) MG 34 three torch cut receiver. Excellent condition. Serial number 2570.

38) MG34 late war 1945 (DOT 45) parts kit. Unique is mostly metal stock unit as only rear is wood, about half is a checked round metal piece with only the butt stock being wood: this piece is marked 6851 at the front of checkering. Also the pistol grips are cast aluminum with small wooden inserts riveted in the grip. Finish of the gun is file rough as this is a very late war unit. Receiver was torch cut in three places. Very good barrel. Serial number on barrel shroud/trunion: "1239c" non-matching kit but complete.

39) MG 34 three torch cut receiver. Very good condition.

40) MG 34 trigger frame (pistol grip) complete with trigger and grips.

41) MG 42 Post warTripod (lafette) tan complete with everything.

42) MG34 tripod adapter unit, used to mount and fire MG 34 on MG 42 tripod.

43) Johnson 1941 LMG lower receiver with wooden stock. Good plus condition.

44) Johnson 1941 LMG front sight, good plus condition.

45) Johnson 1941 LMG 2 x 20-round magazines, 30-06

46) CETME parts kit, 7.63 NATO Barrel. Part of cut receiver missing but rest of kit there. Wood and barrel are nice.

47) Metal box with 10 BREN gun magazines, like new.

48) Wise Light semi-auto grip for MG 42, empty, new never used

49) MG 42 barrel in 7.62 NATO, like new, Austrian Army issue.

50) Remington Rolling Block carbine, 43 cal Egyptian. Nice looking saddle carbine in photographs in very as I never saw it as it was purchased from Gunbroker this fall and shipped to my Arizona address for storage.

51) MP34 magazines, two excellent condition

52) At least 15 cut MG34 separate receiver sections with overlapping units.

53) MG 42 German parts kit, torch cut in four pieces but complete and front threads not cut. Good plus condition. With WWII tripod (Lafette) field grey, no scope.

54) MP 44 saw cut (three pieces) receiver. Nice condition.

55) ZB39 complete kit, very nice. No receiver parts but everything that fit onto or in the receiver.

56) Madsen LMG/Rifle excellent like new condition, in 8mm (7.92 x 57) with German markings, Complete kit and nice cuts on receiver. Includes bipod and magazine.

57) Mid 1950's Armalite AR 10 Dutch made Sudanese parts kit, no receiver, good plus bore, rare kit.

58) MP44 Parts kit, very nice condition, torch cut receiver, four pieces. One magazine.

59) Round cardboard tube with six new DROR barrels in 8mm (7.92x57).

60) MP 28/II parts kit, complete with long semi-auto tube blank, this kit was in very good condition compared to others on the market and was complete to include the original three cut receiver. One magazine.

61) MP 28/II Parts kit that was in excellent plus condition. It was only cut through the area behind the safety notched area, the ejector port (mag well was removed first) and at the front of the tube behind the front sight. Wood was excellent. Kit included one magazine.

62) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit in wooden transport case.

63) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit in wooden transport case.

64) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit, the receiver was almost finished, perhaps 95% welded and had the Mid Western Metal full auto bolt block welded in. All of the semi-auto modifications were complete but were a little different than those of Mid Western Metals. Overall condition of parts were excellent. I purchased this from a member of the 1919a4 Forum several years ago.

65) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit. I only saw this in photographs as I purchased after I was home on leave. It was still in the box it was shipped in but from the photographs I received of it, it had an early three saw cut receiver with an extra barrel. It had the so-called forward assault grip. Complete with magazine.

66) A semi-automatic welding jig that may have number 64 still on it, I welded the receiver when I was home and cannot remember if I pulled the jig or not. It has the extra space on the right side to install (weld) the full auto bolt block.

67) Five PPSH 41 drum magazines, four in canvas carriers, all very good plus condition.

68) MG 42, German kit with four nice torch cuts, front not cut, have anti-air craft sight fitting on top of front section and new internal boost unit. Barrel almost new condition.

69) MG 34/42 original German Belt loading machine in its original can carrying case. I paid premium price for this excellent loading machine.

70) Trapdoor 1873 Springfield rifle, manufactured in 1875 for NY Milita. The rifle is in very good plus condition from photographs but I never saw it as it was purchased from Gunbroker this fall and shipped to my Arizona address for storage. It is in 45-70 cal and is a full length rifle.

71) Last kit purchased was a MG 42 with mixed 53 parts. Receiver was mostly welded except for the riveting of the internal rails. The front shroud was not connected to the rear. The receiver has the anti-auto pin block in front of the pistol grip opening. Unique to this kit was how the original internal rail rivets were removed with a grinder that left large grinding marks on the receiver that will have to be filled with welding rod. There was a semi-auto pistol grip with all semi-auto parts (hammer fire) installed and the bolt was modified for semi auto (slit for hammer). Top feed cover marked 1395 and receiver marked at end S.M. 555k svq. There were five 50 round belts with the kit and a small blue coffee can filled with small parts.

72) One WWII manufactured Webley .45 ACP revolver with a very dirty issued canvas holster. This was my father's WWII war souvenir. It was stored in a fire proof safety box with 150 rounds of WWII Colt manufactured ammunition still in their original boxes. There were several (I believe five half moon clips required to use with this ammunition). The pistol was manufactured as a 45 ACP caliber gun, not remarked from .455 as most. The barrel was in very rough condition it was never cleaned after us except by me. The thieves busted the box open and took everything in it to include the CO2 air pistol by Crosman that I had been given when I was ten years old.

Please advise it you see or are offered any of the above. They were stolen out of a high security rental unit I rent in Tucson, Arizona. I am stationed with the US Army in Germany and cannot have them here. Thanks Harry
| 843|843|2012-01-08 12:10:35|messerschmittfan|$2,000 Reward for the return of my stolen kits|
Updated list as of 6 January 2012 Reward for return of stolen items $2,000.00

1) A 1918a2 BAR complete parts kit, including proper bipod and carrying handle as well as a sling, most parts are WWII dated and ten magazines; serial number 6508769. It included an early Robery Landies Dummy receiver bought in 1994. The kit had the rare bolt guides and top cover.  The receiver also includes an early Philadelphia Ordnance receiver from 1994.  The barrel is dated 11/43 for New England Arms. The rifling is excellent with no pitting; gauged with CMP gauge at 2. Bipod marked B14787  The rear sight on the receiver was a little bent (marked LRCO), but there was a new sight with the extra parts. Magazines were still in paper and in a magazine belt marked Belt, Magazine, BAR M1937, 74-B-240, Concord -1951.
2) A 1918a2 BAR parts kit with a cut receiver but with extra receiver parts (overlapping six pieces). Barrel was Winchester 1943. This kit had one magazine with it and a NOS bipod.

3) A 1919a4 complete parts kit from Iron Creations with an 80% side plate, tripod, 7.62 NATO barrel, 30-06 barrel, proper barrel boosters and cartridge stop for barrels.

4) A 1919a4 complete parts kit with loads of accessories and side plate; to include eight new cloth belts most still in plastic wrap, anti-aircraft sight, all new semi-auto internals from Black Bear MfG, 90% finished side plate (needed rivet holes drilled through as they were only partial), new scope mount for frame (Azexarms.com). The gun was ex-Israeli Army in 7.62 but it was like new before being made into a parts kit. I purchased from a member of the 1919a4 forums who needed the money and I paid his price.

5) A complete conversion kit for the 1919a4 to 1919a6 from Iron Creations mixed US and Israeli parts. All new, barrel 30-06. 6) Czech ZK383 complete (rare) parts kit with most of touch cut receiver, and bi-pod. Wood stock was in good (-) condition and the front handgrip wood was much darker in color than the stock. Complete with magazine.

6) Czech ZK383 complete (rare) parts kit with most of touch cut receiver, and bi-pod. Wood stock was in good (-) condition and the front handgrip wood was much darker in color than the stock. Complete with magazine.

7) New Cobray 37mm Flare launcher with mounts for AR15/M16. New, never used..

8) A 1910 Maxim MG wheeled mount with piano shaped lock box plus shield mount pin and shield. Purchased from IMA as excellent condition.

9) MP34 Parts set, cut receiver, overall condition very good with magazine. In the ejection port (right side) are seven small notches that appear to have been made by a pry bar.

10) PPSH 41 complete semi-auto kit, uncut trunion, 16" barrel mounted, new drilled barrel shroud for 16" barrel, semi-auto bolt and fire control unit. Six extra pieces of the vented cover for overlapping and extending the original vent cover. Two 72 round drum (with carriers) and four "stick" magazines. Kit was Polish and in excellent condition.

11) New repair section for front and rear of MG42 receiver for semi-auto build.

12) ZB 30 parts kit, torch cut, 8mm (7.92x57) barrel, one magazine, overall condition fair plus.

13) Lanchaster SMG parts kit with dummy receiver with 32 round magazine. Very good condition. Serial number 32300.

14) Lanchaster SMG parts kit with cut receiver, and 50 round magazine, very good condition.

15) FAL FN parts kit, cut receiver, included Para barrel in addition to standard as well as Para stock with standard stock and three magazines. Has 2 x USA made new gas pistons, extra stripped lower receiver three sets of pistol grips, two bolts, most parts for making two FAL semi-auto guns. One unfinished Century Arms receiver marked Century Arms, Georgia R1Aa made in USA. Included was instruction sheet for finishing receiver. Overall condition good plus

16) Semi-auto Wise Lite Arms MG 42/53 semi-auto pistol grip complete. New made, never unpacked. Paid $133.50 27 Mar 09.

17) Maxim Belt loader in wooden carrying case, for Russian WWII Maxim M1910. Excellent like new condition. Serial number 2005 on top of main unit. Manufactured by VKT. Instructions on use on inside lid right side held on with small nails. On outside of lid above the carrying handle lid is stamped with the Finnish Army SA markings and inspectors stamp. Carrying handle marked KELLCKCSK.

18) AR10 Bayonet Sudanese M1959. Very good plus condition and rare.

19) Original mid-50's AR 10 receivers, saw cut, two fronts, and three rear sections. Front sections marked Armalite AR10 mfd by (Armalite trade mark) Nederland. Bolt carrier, trigger unit, grips with retaining screw, hammer, and misc small parts; RARE.

20) MG 42 complete excellent German parts kit with three saw cut receiver. Front support not cut. Suppose to be an all-matching gun. Rear of receiver marked 1943 but was cut through rest of markings. All of the other major parts that are waffenamted marked are from the same inspection stamp. Rear stock marked 1344 on left side as was the top feed cover.

21) MG 42 German torch cut receiver with some M53 parts, very good parts kit, has Canadian made Flat receiver parts that fit together with notches, inside rails complete with bipod. The receiver parts consisted of seven flat pieces, one of which was the main receiver part with all of the holes and stampings. It just needed to be folded and welded. The front of the receiver was cleaned and fitted with a new front unit that had not been welded yet.

22) M53 Yugo torch four cut receiver, not cut at front, very good parts kit, complete with bipod. Top plate marked with the Yugo crest and serial number 56712.

23) DROR 1st model MG (machine rifle) kit in 303! Very rare, looks like M1944 Johnson LMG. Torch cut receiver, excellent two barrels and 3 extra magazines (look like Johnson MG magazines but in 303,). Has extra bolt assembly. Wood very good.

24) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57) serial number 2206. Torch cut receiver four pieces plus a cut Johnson LMG receiver. Complete with four magazines. Very good plus.

25) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57) serial number 2427. Torch cut receiver three pieces. Complete with magazine. Looks like new gun was cut, excellent condition.

26) DROR 2nd model MG (machine rifle) kit in 8mm (7.92x57) serial number 2020. Torch cut receiver four pieces. Complete with four magazines. Good condition.

27) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and stick magazine. Bottom plate for replacement of cut parts.

28) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and stick magazine. Bottom plate for replacement of cut parts and semi-auto tube blank and 16" barrel.

29) Four Suomi M31 72 round drum magazines.

30) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum.

31) Suomi M31 excellent condition parts kit, cut receiver, complete with drum and 4 stick magazines.

32) Excellent condition M38 Beretta parts kit, cut receiver, one magazine, stock and receiver marked 13887.

33) Excellent condition M38a Beretta parts kit, cut receiver, one magazine. .

34) Beretta M38a kit with semi auto receiver and vented tube blank, extended flash suppressor for 16" barrel, 16" barrel, converted bolt, semi-auto trigger group,oiler, magazine pouch, four magazines, sling, cleaning kit. This was a complete kit to make a semi-auto M38a in very good plus condition.

35) Beretta M38a kit with some semi-auto conversion parts, including a reduced diameter Prexis bolt ($75 value) for building an approved semi-auto version. The original 3-cut de-milled barrel (included had a hole drilled in the rear threaded area and half way up the barrel) was replaced with new 16" 9mm barrel; de-milled original receiver, a reduced dia. receiver tube with milling template (most holes were cut), converted bolt and firing/trigger group, one mag, orig. sling and mag pouch. Shroud is in excellent shape.

36) Complete saw cut MG34 receiver with cams, four pieces.

37) MG 34 three torch cut receiver. Excellent condition. Serial number 2570.

38) MG34 late war 1945 (DOT 45) parts kit. Unique is mostly metal stock unit as only rear is wood, about half is a checked round metal piece with only the butt stock being wood: this piece is marked 6851 at the front of checkering. Also the pistol grips are cast aluminum with small wooden inserts riveted in the grip. Finish of the gun is file rough as this is a very late war unit. Receiver was torch cut in three places. Very good original spare barrel. Serial number on barrel shroud/trunion: "1239c" non-matching kit but complete.

39) MG 34 three torch cut receiver. Very good condition.

40) MG 34 trigger frame (pistol grip) complete with trigger and grips.

41) MG 42 Post war Tripod (layette) tan complete with everything.

42) MG34 tripod adapter unit, used to mount and fire MG 34 on MG 42 tripod.

43) Johnson 1941 LMG lower receiver with wooden stock. Good plus condition.

44) Johnson 1941 LMG front sight, good plus condition.

45) Johnson 1941 LMG 2 x 20-round magazines, 30-06; plus small Johnson parts. Paid $161.20 on 25 Aug 09.

46) CETME parts kit, 7.63 NATO Barrel. Part of cut receiver missing but rest of kit there. Wood and barrel are nice.

47) Metal box with 10 BREN gun magazines, like new.

48) Wise Light semi-auto grip for MG 42, empty, new never used

49) MG 42 barrel in 7.62 NATO, like new, Austrian Army issue. PIS 87.56 on 1 Dec 09.

50) Remington Rolling Block carbine, 43 cal Egyptian. Nice looking saddle carbine in photographs in very as I never saw it as it was purchased from Gunbroker this fall and shipped to my Arizona address for storage.

51) MP34 magazines, two, in excellent condition.

52) At least 15 cut MG34 separate receiver sections with overlapping units.

53) MG 42 German parts kit, torch cut in four pieces but complete and front threads not cut. Good plus condition, rear receiver number 4112a; with WWII tripod (Lafette) field grey, no scope.

54) MP 44 saw cut (three pieces) receiver. Nice condition.

55) ZB39 complete kit, very nice. No receiver parts but everything that fit onto or in the receiver.

56) Madsen LMG/Rifle excellent like new condition, in 8mm (7.92 x 57) with German markings, complete kit and nice cuts on receiver. Includes bipod and magazine. It came with a partial ZB39 kit with good 8mm barrel.

57) Mid 1950's Armalite AR 10 Dutch made Sudanese parts kit, no receiver, good plus bore, rare kit.

58) MP44 Parts kit, very nice condition, torch cut receiver, four pieces. One magazine.

59) Round cardboard tube with six new DROR barrels in 8mm (7.92x57).

60) MP 28/II parts kit, complete with long semi-auto tube blank, this kit was in very good condition compared to others on the market and was complete to include the original three cut receiver serial number 2626; bolt numbered 19. One magazine.

61) MP 28/II Parts kit that was in excellent plus condition. It was only cut through the area behind the safety notched area, the ejector port (mag well was removed first) and at the front of the tube behind the front sight. Wood was excellent. Kit included one magazine.

62) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit in wooden transport case.

63) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit in wooden transport case.

64) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit, the receiver was almost finished, perhaps 95% welded and had the Mid Western Metal full auto bolt block welded in. All of the semi-auto modifications were complete but were a little different than those of Mid Western Metals. Overall condition of parts were excellent. I purchased this from a member of the 1919a4 Forum several years ago.

65) BREN Gun Mark II parts kit. I only saw this in photographs as I purchased after I was home on leave. It was still in the box it was shipped in but from the photographs I received of it, it had an early three saw cut receiver with an extra barrel. It had the so-called forward assault grip. Complete with magazine.

66) A semi-automatic welding jig for the BREN semi-automatic build that may have number 64 still on it, I welded the receiver when I was home and cannot remember if I pulled the jig or not. It has the extra space on the right side to install (weld) the full auto bolt block.

67) Five PPSH 41 drum magazines, four in canvas carriers, all very good plus condition.

68) MG 42, German kit with four nice torch cuts, front not cut, have anti-air craft sight fitting on top of front section and new internal boost unit. Barrel almost new condition.

69) MG 34/42 original German Belt loading machine in its original can carry case. I paid premium price for this excellent loading machine.

70) Trapdoor 1873 Springfield rifle, manufactured in 1875 for NY Milita. The rifle is in very good plus condition from photographs but I never saw it as it was purchased from Gunbroker this fall and shipped to my Arizona address for storage. It is in 45-70 cal and is a full-length rifle.

71) FND pistol grip with complete trigger assembly.

72) A large box of STEN gun kits, there were ten MK II's, and three MK III's and one Mk V in the box. Most were old saw cut kits that I purchased over the past ten years. There were several 16 inch barrels (I think three) in addition to the original barrels. There were a mix of loop and T stocks with two extra T stocks. There was only one semi-auto modified bolt in the bunch with the rest being original and three brass bolts. I had five of the semi-auto tubes with the template bounded on that are sold on Gunbroker. Paid over $1,500 over a three year period from different sellers.

73) Johnson LMG mainspring.

74) DROR and carrier in 8mm (7.92 x 57) with 2nd Model rear sight.

75) DROR rear sight and upper rear receiver, 1st model and front part of 2nd model bolt. Paid $55.00 pm 6 Mar 11

76) DROR lower receiver part, mag well with mag latch uncut. Paid 51.00 on 5 Sep 09.

77) DROR first Model lower receiver (like Johnson LMG) unit.

78) DROR 2nd Model rear sight. Paid $52.00 on 6 Mar 2011.

79) Last kit purchased was a MG 42 with mixed 53 parts. Receiver was mostly welded except for the riveting of the internal rails. The front shroud was not connected to the rear. The receiver has the anti-auto pin block in front of the pistol grip opening. Unique to this kit was how the original internal rail rivets were removed with a grinder that left large grinding marks on the receiver that will have to be filled with welding rod. There was a semi-auto pistol grip with all semi-auto parts (hammer fire) installed and the bolt was modified for semi auto (slit for hammer). Top feed cover marked 1395 and receiver marked at end S.M. 555k svq. There were five 50 round belts with the kit and a small blue coffee can filled with small parts.

80) SKS, Yugo model with grenade launcher flash hider and rubber butt cover; 7.62 x 39 with 30 round Tapco extended magazine.

81) One WWII manufactured Webley .45 ACP revolver with a very dirty issued canvas holster. This was my father's WWII war souvenir. It was stored in a fire proof safety box with 150 rounds of WWII Colt manufactured ammunition still in their original boxes. There were several (I believe five half moon clips required to use with this ammunition). The pistol was manufactured as a 45 ACP caliber gun, not remarked from .455 as most. The barrel was in very rough condition it was never cleaned after us except by me. The thieves busted the box open and took everything in it to include the CO2 air pistol by Crosman that I had been given when I was ten years old.

Please advise the Tucson Police or your local Police if you see or are offered any of these items. The officer handling the case is Detective Fedele and the case number is 1112120154 should you come across anything. I have added my updated list with serial numbers for some more items and some additional items I have found receipts for. They were stolen from a high security rental unit that I rent in Tucson, Arizona as I am stationed with the US Army in Germany. My email is connors@... Thanks Harry

Additional items

Two Russian Maxim 200 round belts with carrying can

One Russian Maxim 1910 lock (bolt set-up)

One FN FAL parts kit standard metric kit

FN Model D 30-06 parts kit with cut receiver.
| 844|844|2012-02-07 04:21:23|helix602003|Which plans RGG or D&E???|
I'm trying to figure out which is the better plan set for a 22 GG. I've done a search here and can't seem to locate the answer.
My requirements are basicaly to be asteticaly (sp) correct to an origional colt type. Difficulty to build is not an issue for me since I own a CNC machine shop.
From what I can tell so far. Both available prints are lie drawings and for an extra fee I can get 3D renderings. Which means I'll have to build them in CAD prior to machining.

Thanks for the help!!
Regards,
Heli
| 845|844|2012-02-07 22:10:25|David Boles|Re: Which plans RGG or D&E???|
Heli.
I have built the D&E on a full carriage and here is my opinion :
1) The D&E is the most accurate appearing replica, based on the 1874 Colt. This was important to me based on the time invested.
It is a working replica , but will take considerable work to make it reliable.
2) If however, you are interested in a gun that is more reliable and functions well, the RG seems to be the best choice based on comment of others.
It also looks good.
Unless you have access to some heat treatable metals ( and know how to heat treat them), I don't believe any of these replica's can be made to operate as well as commercial firearms.
Good luck with your build !
Dave
On Feb 6, 2012, at 9:21 PM, helix602003 wrote:

| 846|844|2012-02-07 22:26:45|dave|Re: Which plans RGG or D&E???|
You can try here. http://www.gatlinggunforum.com/forum/index.php

There are many topics on both, register to post. Dave

| 847|847|2013-03-17 22:59:11|lb7122|Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
On the RGG plans at what position is the barrel when it fires?
| 848|847|2013-03-17 23:44:16|william ramsey|Re: Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
go to gatlinggunforium.com

From: "lb7122@..."

On the RGG plans at what position is the barrel when it fires?

| 849|847|2013-03-20 23:57:39|william ramsey|Re: Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
6 oclock

From: william ramsey

go to gatlinggunforium.com

From: "lb7122@..."

On the RGG plans at what position is the barrel when it fires?
| 850|847|2013-03-23 02:01:42|lb7122|Re: Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
Thanks

| 851|847|2013-09-24 23:57:20|dennisleewilson|Re: Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
With Regrets, I'm leaving this group because...

Ya gotta just LOVE the new, "improved" Yahoo!

I now have to sign on to Yahoo's new, clumsy Groups system in order to post replies because

I get the following message when I try to reply via email:

We are unable to deliver the message from

Your email was not delivered due to a suspected guidelines violation.

Please visit http://groups.yahoo.com/local/guidelines.html

If you feel you've gotten this email in error please visit the following link

for more information

http://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?locale=en_US&page=content&y=PROD_ACCT&id=SLN3263

FURTHERMORE, I even had to REPLY to the latest message because wherever they moved the POST NEW MESSAGE is a mystery to me.

The more that Yahoo "improves", the less useable it becomes!

I have similar problems with email after being forced into their "new, improved" email program.
They had a clean, solid running "classic" program and refused to allow continued use of it.
After using Yahoo mail for 12 years, I'm developing a migration path AWAY from it. Part of that
migration path now involves also getting away from the "new, improved" Yahoo Groups.

Was it change for the sake of change? Was it whim? Was it even necessary? Is there ANY benefit?

Kinda makes a person wonder about the rationality of those who are now running things at Yahoo.

Is there another place where this discussion group can be moved? I vote YES!!

If such a move happens, please notify me at my new email address:

Dennis.Lee.Wilson (at) Cox.net

Regretfully,
Dennis

| 852|847|2013-09-26 22:41:49|superfluities1|Re: Question? Position of the barrel when it fires|
I'm having similar problems-not improved at all.

I hate to loose this group as a resource. I want to build one these in the next few years.

| 853|853|2015-02-03 21:40:31|Dean Cascio|Anyone out there?|
Just wondering if I'm the last man standing?
Dean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

| 854|853|2015-02-03 22:08:21|jvalukievic708|Re: Anyone out there?|
Nope. I'm here.
| 855|853|2015-02-03 22:17:37|warren hughes|Re: Anyone out there?|
If a thread comes up I read it. But my machining is way to primitive to start one. Besides I broke my lathe. Warren

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

From:"Dean Cascio dean_cascio@... [GatlingGun]" Â

Just wondering if I'm the last man standing?
Dean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

| 856|853|2015-02-03 22:22:12|ticticdoc|Re: Anyone out there?|
Most everyone has left this site and are on the RGG forum or the other GG forum. Links below I hope

GatChat, Gatling Gun Discussion Forum

GatChat, Gatling Gun Discussion Forum
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| 857|853|2015-02-04 01:05:34|Mike Gibson|Re: Anyone out there?|

Iâ€™m still here but havenâ€™t started one yet.

Mike

From: mailto:GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2015 2:14 PM

To: GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [GatlingGun] Anyone out there?

If a thread comes up I read it. But my machining is way to primitive to start one. Besides I broke my lathe. Warren

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

From:"Dean Cascio dean_cascio@... [GatlingGun]" Subject:[GatlingGun] Anyone out there?

Just wondering if I'm the last man standing?
Dean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

| 858|853|2015-02-04 01:12:21|budscarp|Re: Anyone out there?|

I still subscribe, but unfortunately, with the economy the way is in construction, I'm not in a financial position to build one, and so for the moment have lost interest.

~Bud

Clawson, Michigan

In a message dated 2/3/2015 6:05:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com writes:

| 859|853|2015-02-04 04:12:37|Thomas Tallant|Re: Anyone out there?|
I am hear to not working on on right now.Warren what did you brake?

| 860|853|2015-02-04 04:18:50|Robert Goslin|Re: Anyone out there?|
I/m getting ready To start up on mine again I had to stop and restore my new old monarch 10EE. Bob

On Tuesday, February 3, 2015 8:12 PM, "Thomas Tallant thomas8482002@... [GatlingGun]"

I am hear to not working on on right now.Warren what did you brake?

| 861|853|2015-02-04 05:49:55|warren hughes|Re: Anyone out there?|
Oh I did it ! Started as soil leak around the sight glass. Should have let it leak. Pulled the front plate off the transmission that runs the screws. Well glued the plastic site glass as I could not find a 23 mm one anywhere. Some how the front plate just would not go back. By the time I thought I had it the whole Transmission I drooped . broke two teeth out of the middle gear. This is a Bulgarian lathe. Zero parts. It only has maybe 500 hours on it. Anyway having a time getting it apart. Warren

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

From:"Robert Goslin rgoslin@... [GatlingGun]" Â

I/m getting ready To start up on mine again I had to stop and restore my new old monarch 10EE.Â Bob

On Tuesday, February 3, 2015 8:12 PM, "Thomas Tallant thomas8482002@... [GatlingGun]" Â

I am hear to not working on on right now.Warren what did you brake?

| 862|853|2015-02-04 08:12:42|Thomas Tallant|Re: Anyone out there?|
Sounds like my luck.

On 2/3/15, warren hughes ofujunkcy@... [GatlingGun]
<GatlingGun@yahoogroups.com
| 863|863|2016-03-11 17:52:58|bergejay|don't wait|

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| 864|864|2016-03-11 17:53:01|bergejay|an incredible story|

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| 865|865|2016-03-25 10:51:11|bergejay|Final weeks|

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Yahoogroups error code: 3033 (Fri Mar 25 5:51:05 ART 2016)
| 866|866|2016-03-25 11:06:44|bergejay|Time for you|

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Yahoogroups error code: 2487 (Fri Mar 25 5:51:05 ART 2016)
|

Shape	Nipple
Nipple Type	Threaded Ends
Pipe Size	2"
Material	Cast Red Brass
Length	6"
Outside Diameter	2.375"

ASTM Specification	Pipe to Pipe Connection	Schedule	Specifications Met	Inside Diameter	Wall Thickness		Each
ASTM BS 21	NPT Male x BSPT Male	40	American National Standards Institute (ANSI), American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)	2.067"	.154"	5832T169	$63.87
ASTM BS 21	BSPT x BSPT	40	American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)	2.067"	.154"	4824K199	52.93
ASTM B687-99	NPT x NPT	40	Military Specifications (MIL)	2.067"	.154"	4568K289	27.64
ASTM B43	NPT x NPT	80	American National Standards Institute (ANSI), American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME)	1.939"	.218"	9149K99	61.12


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