Your right about the head not tilting. From the pictures on Dan Kautz
web site it looks like you may be able to change that. If you have no
problem with space and the weight of the heavy 600lbs + heavy mill
then that may be a good choise. The good points about the X3 to me
are that it is the only mill in its class that you can crank the head
up and down and know where it is at all times. This is because of the
dial on the Z axis handle. After using Bridgeport milling machines
for over 25 years I can't see using a mill that you don't know where
you are in the Z axis. Then it has a quill with 3" of travel so you
can drill holes like the Bridgeport that I am used to. At 300lbs I
hope it will be a good strong machine like I hear it is. It also
seems, so far, that it comes ready to use out of the box. No
rebuilding like mini mills and mini lathes.

All machines have short comings. You have to see what fits you best
and live with it.

Bret

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "kmcmachineworks"
of
you
to
someone
| 49|23|2003-11-12 04:30:58|garyv12|Re: X3 mill|

Here is a question for the X3 owners, if the head does not tilt, how does one
tram the spindle relative to the table?

Can this be done in either X or Y direction? This seems pretty critical.

-MM

In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Clint D"

| 50|50|2003-11-12 04:36:43|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Modified 9x20 on eBAY|

There is a modified 9x20 on eBAY #2572211796

| 51|23|2003-11-12 21:16:05|kmcmachineworks|Re: X3 mill|

I dont own one but you can see a whole lot of it in the pictures of
this site

"" http://www.tedatum.com/thms/shop13.html ""

and the only way that I can see and as Dan Kautz also says in this
site that the only way to do the tramming is to unbolt the head
assembely and use shims.

KMc

| 53|53|2003-11-14 16:04:36|Tom Rowe|disassembly of X3|

Has any one removed the head from an X3? Mine is sitting on the
garage floor and I need to reduce the weight as much as possible to
move it to the basement and set in on it's bench.
Any help with it will be appreciated.

The machine looks great and runs up to speed just fine. The X & Y
axis seem to be nice and tight and run smooth, we'll see how they are
after I remove and clean them. Dan's site is very good on the rest of
the breakdown but I need advice on the head.

Bought a 8x14 lathe from Bob also and there were a couple of problems
with the apron and the gear spindles on the banjo. Received new parts
forthwith after advising Bob of the problem and sent old style
spindles which are Nine mm instead of the 10 mm on the "new style and
cut 1 mm bushings out of oil impregnated bronze and should be good
for life. Will send some bushing blanks to Bob with instructions or
to any one who is intrested.

tgaylord

| 54|54|2003-11-20 03:21:07|bretnemeth|X3 Mill spindle wrench|

I have uploaded a drawing and photo of a wrench I made to hold the
spindle while you tighten the drawbar on the X3 mill. Look in the
Photo section.

| 55|55|2003-11-22 01:46:14|tofuflats88|lathe model number|

Greetings, I am happy to have found this group as I have just acquired
a lathemaster 9"X20". This is a used model (yes ebay) and I am
wondering if someone might know the difference between the BV20EL-1,
which is mine, and the BL which I see on the company site? I am a
custom furniture builder and want to use more metal in my creations,
so hope I don't stay stupid for too long on this subject. T

| 56|55|2003-11-22 04:40:01|metalmill52|Re: lathe model number|

Welcome to the group!

I don't know about the model number, (I have and 8x14) but I'm sure
someone will answer soon. I'm just curious, did you buy the 9x20 that
had the SouthBend modifications and was recently listed on eBay?

Regards,
Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tofuflats88" acquired
1,
creations,

| 57|55|2003-11-22 06:39:49|tofuflats88|Re: lathe model number|

The answer to your question is yes it was the one with Southbend
modifications. Cheers
that

| 58|55|2003-11-22 18:18:15|metalmill52|Re: lathe model number|

Congratulations on your new lathe! It looked like a very nice (and
well cared for) machine from the eBay listing. I'm anxious to hear
your evaluation of the SB mods. I'm not a custom furniture maker,
but I do like to do some woodworking, so I think you'll find the
group to be pretty understanding of the things you want to accomplish.

Welcome Again,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tofuflats88"

| 59|59|2003-11-26 23:05:56|wd8jwj|Happy to find this group.|

I am so happy to find this group, to finally be able to talk of these
Lathemaster machines. I have owned my 8x14 since July and the X3 for
about 3 weeks. I could tell you a book of things about these machines
but I would only be re-affirming what people like Alan Trest and Dan
Kautz have said on their web sites. It was those reviews and the 9x20
group posts that swayed me to Lathemaster. I believe for what I
wanted the machines to do I made an excellent choice. Bob Bertrand
has been great to work with and is the strength of Lathemaster.

I have been building a Hit & Miss engine (no Castings) 5 1/2"
flywheels. Have alot of parts done. There are some of my pictures on
tedatum's web site. One is of the "secret carraige lock" we
discovered, after I built my own. Those pics there also. I use mine
because it is easier to get to and tighten. The other one is always
under the compound most of the time.

I will post some pictures as soon as I figure out how to do it.
For the pics at www.tedatum.com, go to bulletin board, go to Bill
Wilkins.

Great to find all of You, re; Ya'll

Bill W.

| 60|60|2003-11-27 00:18:38|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Happy to find group|

Thanks Bill, We are happy you are here too. To add photos just go to
photos, create album, add photos. Feel free to add a lot I have yet
to touch a 8x14. Bob

| 61|61|2003-11-27 01:13:33|wd8jwj|New Photo Album Started|

My album is labeled BGBill. I just dropped a couple pictures there to
get it started. More to come...Bill

| 62|61|2003-11-27 01:30:21|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: New Photo Album Started|

Hey Bill, Good pics I love that cutoff tool clamp thats
engineering...Bob

| 63|63|2003-11-27 04:37:26|n4onl|Interested in a BV20BL|

Hello Everyone!

I'm interested in getting a BV20BL (8.75"x21") and was looking for
anyone who has one, seen or tried one. I'd like to know what you
think of it, and ask some questions.

The 8x14 sounds like a fine machine, but I want a bit larger one.

Also what was/is your experience in dealing with Bob?

Thanks
mike

| 64|64|2003-11-27 05:41:44|wd8jwj|More pics 8x14 & X3|

Hello All,
The pictures show some of the things I have done with my lathe.
Losen the socket head bolt on the banjo and pull the gears away from
the spindle to disable the lead screw when not using carraige feed.
(which is most of the time) Nice feature.
I turned the screw that holds the gears & pully cover on, upside down
so it sticks up about 3/16". There is just enough flex in the cover
that the cover lifts off easily to change belt speeds.
A good movable work light is invaluable.
My carraige lock, although the 8x14 has one.
The X3 controls. A future project is to move the for-rev switch and
kill switch to the front of the mill.
The x/y/z controls right out front and easy to see and use.
Especially Z.
I will post a picture of a little tool I made to remove the spindle
screws as soon as I take the picture.
I have also bought a treadmill motor and control for a future project
to convert the lathe to varible speed. The varible speed on the X3
mill is great.

BGBill

| 65|65|2003-11-27 10:03:03|a68cougr|Accuracy of BV20BL |

I have been researching the Lathemaster and other mini-lathes (9x20 &
7X12) for a while. Since the Lathemaster is tops on my list so far,
I thought I should ask some questions prior to making my final
decision.

I have read the previous posts, but something I have not seen
discussed is the overall accuracy (concentricity I believe) of the
final part. One of my projects will be turning electric motor
commutators which requires a tolerance of at least 0.001". Is this
possible with any of these lathes? Do I need expensive collets to
hold both ends of the shaft?

One last question, the Harbor Freight model 44859-0VGA
(http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?
itemnumber=44859) appears identical, other than bed length and
tooling. Are these manufactured by the same factory?

Thanks for your help.
Mark, (aka Newbie)

| 66|65|2003-11-27 19:18:54|n4onl|Re: Accuracy of BV20BL|

Hi Mark!
I think that you'll find that 3 jaw chucks in general aren't going
to be that accurate, possibly some very high dollar ones are. 3 jaw
chucks are used for speed, using larger stock, truing it as you turn
it down. Once you turn it down it will be true (round with high
accuracy). And that in the end you will need to use either a 4 jaw
chuck and dial it in with a dial indicator, or for speed and
accuracy to use collets with a collet chuck. Even with a collet
chuck you may need to true the backplate to the machine, what ever
brand lathe you decide to buy, since that is the most accurate way.

As for the tailstock end, I'm not sure. I have no experience there
using collets. Centers have always done fine for my needs.

IIRC most of the armatures that I've seen were center drilled from
the factory. If this is the case for your application you could
simply turn it between centers for very good accuracy (much better
than .001"). A faceplate and centers are supplied with most
machines, but a drive dog would also be needed and I'm not sure if
one would be supplied. If not, their inexpensive. A good live center
for the tailstock would be a nice addition also.

mike

| 67|67|2003-11-29 03:41:09|metalmill52|BGBill's Tips|

Hi Bill!

I really like the tips you posted here and on the TEDatum site! I
have an 8x14 and am building Guy Lautard's nongeared rotary table
(see pics in photo section under Bill C...).

The carriage lock works as described on TEDatum and is very timely as
I am just cutting the complicated slot for thr stops on the skirt of
the table. The inverted screw sure helps with the belt changes!

Thanks for the great ideas, and please keep them coming. I'm
contemplating a "dividing in the lathe" setup, and will be happy to
post my results (it'll be a while)!

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

| 68|68|2003-11-30 03:58:39|Bill Wilkins|New pics, chuck removal tool & carraige lock.|

Hello All,

One of the first thigs I made on the lathe was this small tool to
assist in removal of the chuck bolts. As it was mentioned in an
earlier post it was tough to get the bolts into the chuck because of
1" clearance and 1 1/8" fingers. So I found a piece of delrin and
turned it down to 1" diameter and 3/8" thickness. I cut a 9/16" piece
off of the metric allen wrench and forced it into an undersize hole
drilled in the delrin, voila!, a tool. Makes taking off and putting
on the chucks a lot easier.
Also some pics of the factory carraige lock and the block that does
it.

Bob W... My wife's son lives outside Salem on Butler Grange Rd.(I
think thats the road name) I'm a half mile from I75 & Rt 6 junction
here in Bowling Green. Thanks a million for starting this group.

Bill C... Glad the mini mods helped. Takes me 15 seconds to change
speeds with the speed wrench. Where is there some info on the RT you
are building?

Who else in group has the X3 besides Bret and I?

Hope everybody had a good thanksgiving. BGBill

| 69|68|2003-11-30 17:30:46|metalmill52|Re: New pics, chuck removal tool & carraige lock.|

Thanks BGBill!

I like the new pics and appreciate you taking the time to upload
them. The RT plans can be purchased from Guy Lautard (he's the
author of the Machinist's Bedside Reader series) for $5.95. See it
at lautard.com. Although I'm just a beginner, the plans walk you
through each step and it seems like a great project to really learn
many phases of metalworking. The time investment has been pretty
big, however, so if you need an RT for some thing else, I'd say just
buy one from Bob!!

Happy Machining!

Bill C.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" you

| 70|70|2003-12-01 02:32:24|rrrevels|Position of compound when cutting threads|

I have been trying to cut threads on my 8x14 and apparently am
reading something wrong. I set the compound to 29.5 degrees on the
scale but the threads are sawtoothed (trapezoidal) instead of the
correct shape. What setting should be used on the scale to cut
threads?

Thanks,
Russ
Pensacola, Fl

| 71|70|2003-12-02 02:19:09|embfeniscowles12|Re: Position of compound when cutting threads|

It is my opinion that you have not rotated the compound slide enough.
Consider the following. Normally the axis of the compound lead screw
is parallel to the axis of the lathe spindle ie an imaginary line
running from live center to dead center. For the point of the screw
cutting tool to advance down the side of the thread being cut, the
compound rest must be rotated clockwise until its axis is at a 60deg
angle to the axis of the lathe. In practice the angle is given a
clearance so the setting is usually 60.5degs or a complimentary angle
of 29.5. A machinists metal protractor is usually used to achieve
this.
before you do anything draw a few lines and axis on paper for a
better understanding. Hope it works, Ted.

| 72|70|2003-12-02 02:39:50|rrrevels|Re: Position of compound when cutting threads|

I think you are absolutely correct. I had thought that the scale on
the cross slide had the correct angle on it but I see now that it
doesn't. It is the angle from the work and not the cross slide. I
will get a protractor and see if I can figure how to measure it
correctly.

Thanks,
Russ

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "embfeniscowles12"
screw
60deg
angle
the

| 73|73|2003-12-02 04:08:21|Bill Wilkins|Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

Hello All,
Russ---Ted is exactly right. My first thread cutting experience was
as yours was, pretty ragged. I had set my conmpound at 29.5 on the
little scale. At that point I didn't want to take the time to figure
out what was wrong. Mainly I wanted to change gears as I had not done
that yet. Now I'm excited to try thread cutting again. Let us know
how you fair Russ, with this new info.

Ted---Thanks for the setting us straight. You are right, I went out
and put the screw cutting tool in the holder and simply eyeballed it.
Now it makes sense that the center line of the compound and the
trailing cutting tool edge must be on the same plane. The scale on
the compound is in relation to the paralell line from the spindle to
the tail stock. The 29.5 deg is in relation perpindicular to that
line. I had read all about it in the books and then assumed I go by
the scale on the compound. NOT. I'm learning.

Regards, BGBill

| 74|73|2003-12-02 05:17:43|embfeniscowles12|Re: Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

Don't know wether last posting got through. Make sure that, after
angling the compound and tightening it down, the 60deg screwcutting
tool is set truly perpendicular to the work piece.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" was
figure
done
it.
to

| 75|73|2003-12-02 05:17:43|embfeniscowles12|Re: Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

At the risk of being tedious it must be confirmed that when the
compound slide has been set to the correct angle, and locked, the 60
deg screwcutting tool must be set truly perpendicular to the
workpiece. Regards, Ted.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" was
figure
done
it.
to

| 76|73|2003-12-02 14:55:30|rrrevels|Re: Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

I was using a threading gauge to set the point perpendicular to the
work axis. I am slowing learning how this stuff works. I am
surprized though that the scale on the compound doesn't have the
required settings for threading. I guess that is what you would find
on the big boy machines.

Russ

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "embfeniscowles12"
the
know
out
on
by

| 77|73|2003-12-02 15:21:29|rrrevels|Re: Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

I picked up a stainless steel protractor at Lowe's last night. It
was recommended by a machinist friend after I was talking to him
about the angle problem. Looks like the angle head can be put
against either the work or the chuck and the tail run along side the
compound to ensure the correct angle. I saw the same thing in the
McMaster Carr catalog for about the same price (about $13.00). I am
looking forward to trying it tonight.

Russ
Pensacola, Fl

| 78|23|2003-12-03 03:07:01|Paul|X3 mill|

Brand new member to the group.

Glad to be here.

Where can I get specs and price for the X3 Mill?

thanks

Paul K

| 79|73|2003-12-03 03:58:43|rrrevels|Re: Postion of compoud when cutting threads|

By using the protractor to set the compound I was able to get a
couple of decent looking threads tonight. I think I am finally
making progress.

Russ

-- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rrrevels" am
the
the
on
went
the
scale

| 80|23|2003-12-04 00:24:31|Bill Wilkins|Re: X3 mill|

Hello Paul,
Here are the numbers for the X3 mill. I got them from the Sieg web
site and converted them to inches back before I got mine. One of
bench top mills had a height of 48" and I would have had to cut a
hole in the shop roof in order for the head to go all the way up.
The size of the Z3 is perfect, and the weight makes it much more
managable as a bench top mill. My bench height is 42", and I am 6'1",
this put the mill at the perfect height for ME.
Drill Capacity 1"
End Mill 1"
Face Mill 2"
Spindle stroke 3 3/16"
Throat 9" Spindle to column I believe.
Spindle to table 9 3/4"
Table size 17 5/8" X 6 1/4"
Cross travel 11 3/4"
Height 32 1/2"
Width 22"
Length (F to B) 26 7/8"
T-slots 12mm (slightly less than 1/2")
Weight @ 300lbs
It is variable speed with 2 speed gears. The motor is 1 hp.
There is a cogged belt between the motor and the gears, nice feature.
All handwheel dials are in inches.

Go to the links page and go the tedatum's web site. Great review and
pictures.

I like the mill. It's not a MINI-mill, nor is it a behemouth that you
need a crane to move it.

Hope this helps, any other ?'s just fire away.

Regards, BGBill

| 81|81|2003-12-04 00:32:26|Bill Wilkins|X3 price|

Sorry Paul forgot one thing. Price I believe is @$859. plus shipping.
Go to the Lathemaster web site (Links) and email Bob Bertrand for
exact price and availability and an estimate on shipping to your
location. It took $1092. to get it to me here in Ohio. $45. was for
the straight truck with the lift gate, 300 lbs don't forget, worth it.

Regards BGBill

| 82|82|2003-12-06 01:45:33|herbmueller1942|LATHEMASTER 9X20 QUESTIONS|

If ayone has one of these I would like to ask a few questions:

1. Is the compound rigid enough without any modifications?
2. How difficult is it to change the thread gears?
3. Are these lathes very noisy?
4. Is the speed reduction pulley set worth the money?
5. Is this lathe worth the premium over the Harbor Freight 9x20?
Thanks in advance for any help and guidance.

Herb Mueller
Sherman, TX

| 83|82|2003-12-07 19:50:57|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: LATHEMASTER 9X20 QUESTIONS|

Hey Herb, I don't know if anyone in the group has a 9x20 I know of
8x14's here..Bob
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "herbmueller1942" mueller1@t...

| 84|84|2003-12-12 19:12:26|pdx_2001|Does anyone have a 9x20 for sale in Texas? |

I am looking for a 9x20 lathe to buy. Have found several but they are
pretty far away and the shipping is very expensive.

| 86|86|2003-12-20 21:36:19|cobbware2000|Mill came in|

I have just taken posession of the Lathemaster square column gear
head mill and can not believe the quality. I traveled to Baton Rouge,
met with Bob Bertrand and thouroughly enjoyed the experience. After
all, aren't we in the hobby for enjoyment? He was extremely
accomodating and I purchased MUCH tooling from him. I will be
picking up one of the 9x20 lathes in January when they arrive and am
looking forward to it. Nothing wrong with a little getaway to Baton
Rouge Louisianna for some cajun food, and a good visit/purchase
experience with someone friendly who shares our interest, not to
mention absolute quality machines. This beats the heck out of blindly
ordering equipment from big companies who can't watch the quality
like Bob does. This has been a great experience.
Cobb Ware

| 87|86|2003-12-21 03:16:33|whopist|Re: Mill came in|

Cobb, apparently we just missed each other.

I picked up my dovetail Thursday morning the 18th.

Bob is very nice. I loss a good hour of driving time just shooting
the breeze with him. We were having a high ole time.

I brought mine home to NorthEast TX just outside Texarkana. Where did
you take yours?

Thought about the 9X20 lathe and went to HF to get one. When I saw it
in real life switched to the 12X36. I'm sure proud I did! I have
already turned some tubing that was too large for the 9X20 spindle
opening.

Good luck,
Whopist

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cobbware2000" Rouge,
am
Baton
blindly

| 88|88|2003-12-21 13:00:33|sow662000|QCTP for 8x14|

Hi Folks,
Is there a QUICK CHANGE TOOL POST
available for the 8x14 that does not involve
additional modification to the lathe to install.
I'm considering this lathe but want to avoid all
this rebuilding.

Gorb

| 89|88|2003-12-23 01:39:39|Alan Trest|Re: QCTP for 8x14|

All that I am aware of require some modification to the toolpost as
well as the holders.

Alan T.

| 90|88|2003-12-23 03:54:27|Bill Wilkins|Re: QCTP for 8x14|

I have been using the Lathemaster 8X14 for 6 months now with the
stock tool post. It works just fine, I keep shims handy for the
particular tool I use. The 8X14 is not going to require ANY
modificationS at all to start making swarf. It is ready to go out of
the box.

I will someday tackle the QCTP and will probable make one from
scratch. To adapt an aftermarket QCTP will require some modification,
but nothing major.

The 8X14 would be an excellent choice in my book.

BGBill

| 91|88|2003-12-25 18:16:21|metalmill52|Re: QCTP for 8x14|

Hi Folks,

I say "Ditto" to BGBill's comments below! The 8x14 is ready to go
and the assortment of "extras" (3 and 4 jaw chucks, follower and
steady rests, steel gears, etc) makes it a huge bargain! The 7x10
(which apparently does need a lot of rebuilding) looks like a toy
compared to the 8x14. For more info on the 8x14 capabilities, look
at the links and photos. Look at the rotary table project of mine in
the photo section (some big chunks of steel in my lathe!).

If you really need a QCTP you can get one and drop it right on, just
look at Alan Trest's website.

Merry Cristmas to ALL, and Happy Machining!

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" of
modification,

| 92|92|2003-12-27 07:15:00|kmarr1|8 X 14|

Does anyone have a 8X14 for sale in Ontario,Canada looking for a new
or used one. Thanks Kelly

| 93|92|2003-12-27 21:42:55|Bill Wilkins|Re: 8 X 14|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "kmarr1" KELLY, Probably not likely to find a used one. Most who buys one,
keeps it. It is a good lathe. For new you will have to go to Bob
Bertrand at lathemaster.com. This lathe is ready to go out of the
box, no mods needed, well finished, solid, heavy, and accurate.
Good Luck, BGBill

| 94|94|2003-12-27 21:49:43|Bill Wilkins|Variable DC|

Alan T.

Did you ever do the conversion to varible speed dc with the treadmill
motor on the 8X14?

I bought a treadmill motor and controller off ebay. 1.5 hp 4800rpm
for the 8X14. This project is down the road for me.

Thanks, BGBill

| 95|94|2003-12-28 01:22:42|Alan Trest|Re: Variable DC|

Never got around to it.
Trying to get my three phase rotary working now for the big mill.

Alan

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" treadmill

| 96|96|2004-01-05 03:04:16|sow662000|Cabin Fever show anyone?|

Hi Folks,
Does anyone plan to attend the
Cabin Fever show in York PA later this
month. I plan to be a show my engines there
and would like to chat with anyone who owns
this lathe.
Gorb

| 97|97|2004-01-08 00:28:46|Paul|Knoxville, Dallas|

I live in Knoxville and visit Dallas often.

Anyone with a 8x14 willing to let me take a short peak - I hate to buy
things un-inspected.

Buy you lunch,

thanks

Paul

| 98|98|2004-01-13 19:16:20|fiddlephart|New to group- have a couple of 8x14 control questions please|

Hi- I've been looking so hard and long at the different minis and the
9x20s out there that I have eye strain. My kids know I'll be on the
net and are tired of seeing pix of lathes I leave up on the screen to
ponder. I've decided not to go the 7x10,12,14 route because I don't
want to have to modify any tool I spend that much money on right
away. Same for some of the 9x20s I read about. Good basic machines
all, but I am old school and want, with some minor exceptions, to
just clean it up, make adjustments and start turning. I don't have
the room for or the interest in a full size machine, because that's
how I made my living for several years. I did a lot of woodturning on
a 9x12 Vicmarc mini-woodlathe, and when I needed a couple more inches
between centers, I made a mistake and went with too big a machine.
Now I wish I was back to just having the mini, and I don't want to
make the same mistake in a metal lathe. Most of the metal stuff I
want to do is modeling anyway. I want metal gears (personal
preference) and compact size. I keep coming back to the Lathemaster
because of the great reviews I see.
On to the questions:
I cannot tell from pictures, but if the 8x14 has two feed speeds, are
these separate from the threading feeds? Is there a separate feed
lever or do you engage the threading lever to feed?
Can the feedscrew be disengaged so that it isn't running at all times?
What are the small parts of the machine such as the feedscrew
supports at the ends of the screw made of? Steel?
thanks for your time. i look forward to participating in this forum.

| 99|99|2004-01-14 03:01:03|Bill Wilkins|8X14 Feed questions|

In response to a recent poster's questions.

The feeds are set up with the change gears just as you would for
threading, they are just bigger gears for slower feeds, all
controlled by the feed lever on the carriage. The gear banjo can be
pulled away from the spindle gear to stop the feedscrew from turning.
(nice feature) The bearing blocks are steel. The feedscrew is 3/4".

BGBill

| 100|99|2004-01-17 02:12:06|fiddlephart|Re: 8X14 Feed questions|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" turning.
Thanks for taking the time to post!

| 101|101|2004-02-02 17:54:34|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|100 members|

Hi gang, I see we reached 100 members. I still don't have a 8x14 but
you guys can still chat. Thanks..Bob

| 102|102|2004-02-03 03:48:34|Bill Wilkins|A boring job!|

Hello All,

I am about to finish bore the cylinder for the Hit & Miss engine I
have been building. Go to my photo album for a picture of the boring
set up on the mill. Picture is labeled "Boring Job"

The suggestion was to rough bore the cylinder untill after the
heating for silver soldering of the water hopper end plates.

My question is, considering the set up what RPM would you run the
spindle at? I am planning on taking very small cuts, .001 - .002. The
cylinder is 3 1/8" long.

Unforunatly I have to use the tri-handle to lower the spindle during
the cuts as the dovetail will be locked for this operation. For those
of you with X3's, you know what I mean.

I did try setting it up in the lathe with the 4 jaw but was not
satisfied with the set up. I was afraid the re-bore would not be
true. I am satisfied with the set up on the mill.

Any and all comments,ideas,suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,......BGBill

| 103|102|2004-02-03 21:19:48|Mike Eorgoff|Re: A boring job!|

Why are you locking down the dovetail on the column?

Mike Eorgoff

| 104|104|2004-02-04 00:41:58|Bill Wilkins|Boring Job|

Hello Mike E.

I have to lock the gib because I have head movement in the dovetail.
When I lock the dovetail I get a sideways movement of the cutter of
010".

The Z axis was hard to operate and the tapered gib was scratching the
dovetail so I took it out to inspect it. It was really rough so I
cleaned it up on the bench belt sander. The Z is now smoother but now
it won't lock up the column when the gib screw is all the way down.
It is now probably out of tolerance or was to start with. I have
ordered a new one from Bob at Lathemaster.

I may wait untill the new gib is in place to do this job. Hopefully
it will take care of the problem.

Regards All...BGBill

| 105|105|2004-02-04 10:59:54|frank|Lathemaster 8x14 Lathe model :CQ6120X320|

Hello
After burning myself out about everything I can find
about the Lathemaster 8x14 Lathe model :CQ6120X320
Can someone tell me if this is a Chinese made machine?
And about the weight can 1 person lift this machine?
would I be able to strip this down so I could lift it
on to a bench.
And how come when I visit the lathemaster site this product is always
out of stock
Also what would be the shipping cost to Massachusetts.
Thanks
Frank

| 106|105|2004-02-04 11:08:18|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Lathemaster 8x14 Lathe model :CQ6120X320|

Hi Frank, Yes it's Chinese from the same factory of all the other
ones 7x?. Yes you can remove some parts to lift but please get a
buddy to help you. I sent you Bob's ph number give him a call..Bob

| 107|107|2004-02-05 06:04:59|Bill Wilkins|Lifting Lathe|

Hello Frank,

I moved my lathe by myself. Off the truck and onto the yard trailer
covered with a piece of 3/4" ply on top. Didn't want it going all the
way to the ground as it would be just farther up to the bench. I
removed the crossslide, tailstock, and gear & pulley cover. I lifted
one end at a time. The part of my body I used the most was my head,
where a recollection of high school physics was. This would be
second choice, first would be, ask a friend for help.

The 8X14 would be worth the wait. Call Bob at Lathemaster & get on
the list for one.

Good Luck...BGBill

| 108|107|2004-02-09 20:54:05|kmcmachineworks|Re: Lifting Lathe|

Any Idea how long of a waiting list there is on this lathe??

KMc

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" the
lifted

| 109|109|2004-02-09 23:42:16|largescalerr|8x14 questions|

Newbe here - if they'll indulge me I've got a couple of misc.
questions on the 8x14 for current owners out there -

Spindle -

I know at one time I found messages somewhere describing the spindle
nose design but I can't come back up with them. What type of mount
does the 8x14 have - I thought it was described as "something
similar" to the D1-4 style taper mount (but without the cams). What
is it really, and how difficult is it to fit up an aftermarket chuck
(say an appropriately-sized Bison or other good quality chuck)?

Change gears -

Are the change gears the same as the typical 9x20's or a different
set? What's in the set? (Reason - the range and number of thread
pitches quoted seems a little small, but it seems like often there
are more pitches available - the combos just get "missed" in the
marketing paperwork.

Tumble Reverse -

Has anyone fabricated a tumble reverse yet? I've seen some project
ideas posted but wondered if anyone had actually modified their 8x14
yet.

QCTP - ideas/caveats/recommendations?

Thanks for any help!
Tim

| 110|110|2004-02-09 23:43:12|n1ych|Tramming an X3 mill and other questions?|

Hello Everyone. Just received my new X3 mill last week... Man this
thing is SWEEEEET! Anyway I had to remove the column in order to
move it into the basement. I took the whole thing apart cleaned it,
lubed it and reassembled it, I didn't take the head apart though.
Should I even attempt to dissamle the head to clean and relube it?

I have not cut a single chip with it yet. But anyway. The column
is held in place by 4 large bolts and two tapered dowl pins for
position. There were no shims... Will I have a problem with the
mill tram now that I took the column off and put it back on? If
so... How would I go about tramming it if I need to. Granted... I
havn't checked it it yet, and it may be dead on!
Also.... how do you lock the sindle in order to loosen the draw bar!
Thanks!
Bob

| 111|111|2004-02-11 00:26:06|n1ych|X3 Mill Vise Recommendation|

Can anyone recommend a nice size vise for the X3?
Thanks!
Bob

| 112|109|2004-02-11 05:12:34|Bill Wilkins|8x14 questions|

Tim,
The spindle and chuck flange is all one piece. I would imagine an
adapter plate would have to be machined for an aftermarket chuck. I
think the stock chucks are good quality and accurate.

There are 16 change gears for 12 STD thread pitches and 12 metric.
Plus 2 feed speeds.

There is a reverse gear that must be installed after you take off the
forward one. 15 min job. I have not had a need to do this yet with my
lathe.

Regards, BGBill

| 113|113|2004-02-11 05:23:54|Bill Wilkins|X3 questions|

Bob,
You may have already done this but what I would do is tighten the
column bolts in sequence. RF-LR-RR-LF, just snug first, then a little
at a time each time around untill tight. Don't tighten a bolt up all
at once. For a quick check you could put a 8" to 10" piece of drill
rod in an R8 collett and use a presision square on the table.

Go to the photos section and Bret's X3 folder for a spindle wrench to
hold the spindle while tightening.

I have a 3" screwless vise, and I like it. You can get them for
about $50. Check Little Machine Shop.

Regards, BGBill

| 114|111|2004-02-11 16:55:10|mineralman55|Re: X3 Mill Vise Recommendation|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "n1ych" you'll have to machine two small clamp blocks to hold it down. Chris
at LMS has some plans for the clamp blocks on his website. I made
mine from some stainless I had around. Their holding power was only
okay, but the nub at the backend of the block left some dents on my
X3 table. So I milled off the nubs and cut some indentations on the
bottom of the clamp blocks so they fit into the T-slots on the X3
table. The grip improved tremendously, and there were not more dents.

Larry

| 115|115|2004-02-17 07:05:37|Bill Wilkins|X3 Z Axis Modification|

Hello All,
I have downloaded 4 pictures of my mod to the X3 Z Axis.

I have never been happy with the stiffness of the Z axis operation.
Sometimes having to use both hands when the head was clear at the top
of the column. The mod should be pretty self explanitory. Doing this
mod removes the gas strut and provides a smooooth Z axis operation
with just two fingers on the handwheel. The head is balanced by the
weights below the bench, 105 lbs. Thats the weight of the head and
all associated parts that go up and down. This all might be Barnyard
Engineering but it works and works great.

Pic 1, 3/8" cast eyebolt tapped into the top of the dovetail plate (*)

Pic 2, 1/8" stainless aircraft cable going up and over the 2 1/2"
pulleys and down thru a hole in the workbench to the weights.

Pic 3, Mill is ready to roll.

Pic 4, 105 lbs of cast iron weights from Wal-Mart.

* Had to pull the dovetail plate off because of a problem with the
tapered dovetail. The taper was off .006 at the bottom end. Problem
fixed...

I now probably have the smoooooothest Z axis X3 there is.

Comments accepted, good, bad or indifferent.

Regards, BGBill

| 116|116|2004-02-17 21:30:13|mineralman55|X3 and Lathemaster|

Folks,
I originally was on this list via a different name, but my email kept
bouncing (d&*n company firewall), so I'm back with a different name.
I purchased one of Bob's X3 mills last summer and enjoy it more every
time I use it.

In addition, I've purchased a number of other items from Bob (it's
great being near Baton Rouge) and will let you know how they are. The
Sieg 4 inch rotary table set is a very nice piece of work, well
machined, some slop on the worm screw but it is adjustable. It comes
complete with a chuck adapter, dividing plate and tail stock. I
haven't used it yet, but I'm looking forward to it.

A week or so ago, I purchased the 1 inch R8 stub arbor with the 3.5
inch cutting saws. These are great. The arbor has ~0.001 inch run
out, and the key and spacers are a tight fit. I practiced cutting
some 6061 with the 3/32 inch saw and I eased up to a 1 inch deep cut
just fine, no slowing down the X3. I'm getting some teflon tubing
soon, to see if I can make some ultra thin washers with it.

Bob also showed me an R8 flycutter, which I "had" to have. I only had
5/16 inch left hand cutters which are really too small for the
flycutter, but I used it anyway. I put a block of 6061 in my vise and
planed it off. Very nice finish which took only a little #600 wet/dry
to polish to a mirror finish. Very nice.

One more thing. Bob has some VERY interesting new machines on the
drawing boards. They may give me justification to make me give up my
7x12.

LarryO
New Orleans

| 117|115|2004-02-17 23:18:20|n1ych|Re: X3 Z Axis Modification|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" Thanks for the info... I just received my x3. I tore it down,
cleaned and lubed it and its now back together. My z axis is also
very stiff. Some times it takes two hands on the wheel. I like your
mode and may consider doing it. I have another question you may or
may not be able it answer. On the X and Y table the gib can be
adjusted with the set screws but there is no adjustment on the gib
in the head. Is there anyway to adjust the "play" between the head
and the dove tail?
Also... I know you say that your head is nicely balanced with the
mod you made and the z axis is easy to move. But do you think you
loose any rigity that the weight of the head provides by counter
balancing it?

One more question... If I remove my head from the dovetail block are
there going to be any alignment issues that you know of when I put
it back together?
Thanks!
Bob Berg

wrote:
operation.
top
this
the
Barnyard
(*)
Problem

| 118|115|2004-02-17 23:19:14|n1ych|Re: X3 Z Axis Modification|

| 119|115|2004-02-17 23:20:29|n1ych|Re: X3 Z Axis Modification|

Sorry for the double post! :-O
Bob

| 120|120|2004-02-18 00:48:45|Mike Eorgoff|X3 Head Removal|

This is how I went about removing the head of the X3 mill. I left the motor
on.

WARNING: The HEAD all together WEIGHS approximately 100 LBS.

You do not want to dump it on it's bottom (motor and spindle sticking down
below bottom of casting), on the right side (gear speed changer knob), left
side (motor and motor mount hanging out if left attached) or front. It will
rest on
top of the column while moving it if placed on the flat part of the bottom.

NOTE: Reference to the print that I have in the manual is made by the use of
"(xx)" to indicate the part.

Removal:
1. Remove the handles (52) from the spindle vertical movement knob (49).
2. Remove the air spring (154) connection (132) to the back saddle (137).
a. Move the head all the way up.
b. Unscrew the pivot (132) using a straight blade screw driver. Remove
the
pivot fully.
3. Remove the adjustable gib (64). Be careful of the gib material, it is
rather
soft.
4. Place a piece of 2x4 where the head can rest after it is unfastened. It
must have enough height to clear the spindle and the bottom of the motor.
Move the head all the way down until it is lightly resting on the wood.
5. Remove the screws holding the side mounts (118) and pull the mounts
(131) off.
Watch out for the pins(150), since they are a loose fit. The left and right
mounts are different. The right mount has a hole for the lock screw that
doesn't appear on the left mount.
6. Lift the head off the column.

Restoration:
1. Have a piece of wood on the table or bottom that the head can rest on.
(Reference removal step 3)
2. Lift the head back over the top of the column engaging the ways, lower
it, and let it rest on the wood.
3. Reinstall the side brackets connecting the head to the riser bar.
4. Raise the head to the top.
5. Reinstall the adjustable gib. You may have to pry the bottom of the head
away from the column to get a straight fit for the gib. Remember that the
gib material is soft and you need to avoid compromising the slot that the
adjusting screw fits in.
6. Reconnect the air spring.

DISCLAIMER: Your model may vary. Your mileage may vary. Not responsible
for you hurting yourself or the machine. This is only an expression of how
I did it.

Mike Eorgoff

| 121|121|2004-02-18 01:25:19|Bill Wilkins|X3 Questions answered|

Hello Bob B.,
Congrats on the new arrival Bob.

The head has a tapered gib. There is a screw on top of the dovetail
plate at the top of the gib. The gib should have 2 slots that this
screw sets in. This will raise and lower the gib and keep it in
place. The dovetail on that side also has a taper. By lowering the
tapered gib it tightens within the dovetail. To tight and the column
will not move. Just a little tight and the head will be harder to
move, but just right and there will be no play in the dovetail and
travel up & down will be normal.

You will have no problem with re-alignment. The dovetail plate has an
1 1/2" part that sets inside a hole in the back of the head. Plus
there are 2 pins, one on each side at the joint of the head and
dovetail plate that are for re-alignment.

I don't think my mod has taken away any rigidity. The weight mass is
still there. Hit a punching bag and it takes off, what if that
punching bag was solid steel? The head (65lbs) and its associated
parts weigh 95 lbs, the motor weighs 10 lbs. A properly adjusted
tapered gib is important.

Hope this helps.

Regards, BGBill (WD8JWJ)

| 122|121|2004-02-18 01:33:11|Berg, Bob|Re: X3 Questions answered|

Bill,

Thanks a lot…that is a BIG HELP. I didn’t realize that the gib was tapered, I “thought” that screw just held it in place! I will check that first to make sure I don’t have it too tight!

I did notice that the gib had a pretty ugly surface finish. Do you think it would be a good Idea to clean it up on a stone or just leave it alone?

If I still have a tight Z- axis I then may proceed to your mod!

Thanks Again!

Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Wilkins [mailto:bgwilkin@...]
Sent: February 17, 2004 16:25
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] X3 Questions answered

Hello Bob B.,
Congrats on the new arrival Bob.

The head has a tapered gib. There is a screw on top of the dovetail
plate at the top of the gib. The gib should have 2 slots that this
screw sets in. This will raise and lower the gib and keep it in
place. The dovetail on that side also has a taper. By lowering the
tapered gib it tightens within the dovetail. To tight and the column
will not move. Just a little tight and the head will be harder to
move, but just right and there will be no play in the dovetail and
travel up & down will be normal.

You will have no problem with re-alignment. The dovetail plate has an
1 1/2" part that sets inside a hole in the back of the head. Plus
there are 2 pins, one on each side at the joint of the head and
dovetail plate that are for re-alignment.

I don't think my mod has taken away any rigidity. The weight mass is
still there. Hit a punching bag and it takes off, what if that
punching bag was solid steel? The head (65lbs) and its associated
parts weigh 95 lbs, the motor weighs 10 lbs. A properly adjusted
tapered gib is important.

Hope this helps.

Regards, BGBill (WD8JWJ)

| 123|121|2004-02-18 03:39:41|Bill Wilkins|Re: X3 Questions answered|

Bob, I cleaned mine up while I had the mill laid over. Used the column for a flat plate and 280 W/D with WD 40. I had to do some work to my dovetail plate dovetail and I also did some lapping of the surfaces of the dovetail and column. With the mill laid flat it was easy to slide the dovetail plate back and forth during the lapping.

Get a second opinion on the gib.

Regards BGBill

| 124|124|2004-02-19 06:45:29|cooltool49|'nuther newbie|

Greetings folks.
I'm sitting up here in Anchorage trying very hard to convince myself
that the 8x14 will be my next "toy". I, too, have read everything I
can find on the mini lathes and it appears that Lathemaster tops the
list. I have really enjoyed reading the posts and responses in this
group. Seems like a much friendlier crowd than on the 7xXX group. I
cringe when I think what Bob will tell me the freight charges to
Anchorage will be. Anyway, please accept my apologies in advance when
I display newbie ignorance.
Thanks,
Jerry
"cooltool49"

| 125|124|2004-02-20 03:56:20|metalmill52|Re: 'nuther newbie|

Jerry,

Welcome to the group! You'll be pleased with the 8x14. I finally
have been able to work some more on my little rotary table project
(see photos page), doing the intricate (for me) dovetail groove for
the V-nuts and stop blocks. BGBill, I used the "hidden" carriage
lock feature and appreciate you pointing it out! I'll try to post
some updated pics soon. Ask anyone - the 8x14 is a pleasure to use..

Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cooltool49" myself
I
the
this
group. I
when

| 126|126|2004-02-20 08:50:56|uptoolateman|new member just got an x3 mill|

I'm fairly new to this list and finally came up with the funds for a
bigger mill and lathe (currently own Sherline equip). My X3 showed up
yesterday so I've been tearing down and cleaning, not too bad some
grit here some shavings there but pretty good for asian iron. I'm
impressed with the design of the machine very stout and I like the
all metal gear train, It's what the minimill should have been.

My table is a little different than the pictures I've seen on the
net. It's 22"long and has 16" travel, the lead screw is supported at
both ends with what looks like maybe a power feed mount on the left
side. The leadscrew is flush with the mount and has a slot cut into
it, there is also a T slot running the length of the table on the
front edge just above the ruler for table stops (not supplied though).

My gibs all had a nice ground finish on them but it looks like they
did some scraping on the Z gib to get rid of high spots. The Z axis
is a little stiff but not too bad, it didn't really change even with
the head removed from the machine. The bearing preload feels a little
tight on the leadscrew.

I hope the 8x14 is as nice as the mill already have a bench built for
it.

Mike

| 127|127|2004-02-21 20:23:45|x86ricer|Grizzly G0516 and Sieg M2|

Group for users of the Grizzly G0516 and Sieg M2 Combo Lathe With
Milling Attachment. Discussions about modifications to the machine
and projects completed with the machine. This machine seems to be
one of the only lathe mill combo's that retains accuracy. Nothing
seems to be sacrificed in the way of accuracy, at least nothing more
than you will find on any other 9x20 lathe. There may be some
inherent problems with the mill not having a traditional milling
table. But overall, it seems to be a very nice machine.

As it has a mini-mill head, I thought some of the mini-mill users or
potental users that are looking to set up their own small hobby
machine shop, might like it and have questions. After all you could
always buy the Sieg base and take the mill head off the lathe and
have a seperate mill. But come and state your openions and insite.
Invite everyone you
know that is intrested in hobby machining.

Group name: SiegM2andGrizzlyG0516
Group URL : http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SiegM2andGrizzlyG0516

| 129|129|2004-02-22 04:32:33|cooltool49|Opinions Wanted/Needed|

Sorry about the "no body" message I just posted -- don't know what I
did wrong.
I am in need of advice/assistance. I desire to purchase a small lathe
to start a new hobby. I already know how to operate one, but am only
a beginner. My thoughts, of course, started along the lines of the
7x12, but then I discovered the Lathemaster site. Seems like a lot of
machine to me. I contacted Bob, and he advised me that he does not
ship to Alaska. I did some internet searching for freight companies,
and the best I could do was $500--$600 to Anchorage. WOW!!! I have
since determined that I might be able to get it shipped from Seattle
on a corporate aircraft from a company I am acquainted with. It would
be nearly $200 for FEDEX to get it from Baton Rouge to Seattle plus
the disassembly/crating fee for Bob. That is if Bob could/would
disassemble it into 2 150 pound boxes. FEDEX has a 150 pound limit
and that would also be reasonable for the aircraft.
My question finally follows. I really could make do with the 7x
series as far as size goes. The 8x appears to be a superior machine
in almost all respects, and I have learned over the years that if one
buys substandard or marginal tools one usually needs to buy them more
than once. Now for the complicated part. One of the local hardware
stores up here has the Jet 9x20 for $1100.
So here it is:
Cummins 7x12---$500 to Seattle
Lathemaster 8x14---$900 to $1000 to Seattle
Jet 9x20---$1100 locally
Opinions welcomed
Jerry

| 130|130|2004-02-27 16:09:48|mineralman55|Give Me A Measurement|

Folks,

For someone with the 8x14, if you mounted a Silver&Deming 1/2 inch
shank drill bit into a tailstock chuck (flute length is ~3 1/8 inch),
what is the longest piece of stock you could tailstock-drill using
the three-jaw chuck?

Is there a readily available alternative to the tailstock chuck for
holding a drill bit?

Thanks,

Larry
New Orleans

| 131|129|2004-02-27 16:17:13|kendall|Re: Opinions Wanted/Needed|

| 132|132|2004-02-27 22:59:50|x86ricer|Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

I understand that the importer of the lathe is LatheMasrer. But who
is the manufacture? I can't seem to figure it out. I understan that
they make a 9/10 inch swing version. Bob at lathe master was talking
about having the manufacture make an imperial version with a spindle
bore of 1.5 inch. That would be awsome. Warco in the UK has a
version of the 8x14 in the 9x20 format.
It can be seen hear at their web website.
http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/1022.htm Of corse the carraig feed
wheel is on the left, unlike the picture. That make of lathe is also
availible with a gearbox for threading. I just want a lathe with
larger capasity that has the overall finnish of the 8x14. Take a
look at the top part of the carraig and then look at the top part of
a 12x36 lathe. The rear portion is braced out to the left and right
on both sides and at the back. Unlike the standard 9x20 from Jet,
Grizzly, and HF.
In compairson to the 9x20's it seems to be over enginered for the
size of materials that can be handeled. I am looking for that kind
of quality in a larger lathe without having to step up to a 12x36.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Ben

| 133|130|2004-02-28 18:48:44|Bill Wilkins|Re: Give Me A Measurement|

With the tailstock up against the stop, a 5/8 chuck, a half inch S&D, distance from the chuck jaws to the tip of the drill, 6 3/4". Take out the stop bolt for the tailstock and you can get an extra 3/4" for a total of 7 1/2"

Hope this answers your question.

BGBill

| 134|130|2004-02-28 23:13:58|mineralman55|Re: Give Me A Measurement|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" S&D, distance from the chuck jaws to the tip of the drill, 6 3/4".
Take out the stop bolt for the tailstock and you can get an extra
3/4" for a total of 7 1/2"
From the face of the 3-jaw, or the tips of the jaws?

Larry

| 135|135|2004-02-29 00:08:12|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Silver and Deming Drills OT|

Hi Group, Its kinda interesting about Silver and Deming drill bits.
They were invented, mfg in my hometown of Salem Ohio over 100 years
ago. They did not pat the design and today every buddy makes them
with the S&D type in the name. Just thought I would pass this on.
Happy turning..Bob

| 136|135|2004-02-29 05:44:18|Bill Wilkins|Re: Silver and Deming Drills OT|

Very interesting Bob. I bought my set at Harbor Freight in Maumee, Ohio. A cheap set but they work, probably made in Mow Mee, China!!!. Just used the 1" and 3/4" today boring out the inside of an aluminum piston.

BGBill

| 137|130|2004-02-29 06:15:00|Bill Wilkins|Re: Give Me A Measurement|

Chuck Jaws...

BGBill

| 138|132|2004-02-29 07:40:52|cba_melbourne|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Ben,

It is not the manufacturer that determines the quality. There are
many Chinese bench lathe makers, and from any factory you can find
better and worse quality on the same basic model. The dealer/importer
has a major influence on quality:

- he can squeeze the factory for the lowest price. For example, he
can order a batch lathes without inspection certificate. This can
save some 100 US$ on the in store price, BUT the lathes are then only
coarsly assembled, not adjusted and aligned. Its not just the
accuracy that suffers, such lathes can destroy themselves within the
first hours of use. Also, some parts are usually matched during final
inspection - guess which dealer gets the parts that do not fit
correctly, or the slightly twisted bed.... (that is why the parts are
often painted after assembly). It will also make a differece if for
example $5 or $20 spindle bearings are installed, or if brass
bushings are substituted for bronze.... to the unwary buyer they all
look the same.

- he can appoint an independent Chinese quality assurance company to
inspect the lathes before shipment. This can be done at various
levels, from only visual inspection up to verification of the
inspection protol. Of course this adds again some 20-100$ to the in
store price. Some dealers do not buy direct from the factory, but
from a Chinese intermediate company that provides local quality
assurance, sometimes with a permanent employee at the factory itself.

- he can ship with the cheapest collect seafright, leaving the
machines up to 8 weeks in transit on the wharf, maybe in an untight
container letting seawater in that starts surface rusting... Or he
can use a fast & reliable shipping agent, adding some 50$ to the in
store price.

- he can unpack every crate upon importation and
clean/adjust/align/inspect/test/lubricate the lathes himself prior to
delivery. This too adds to the sale price, if one spends 2hours per
lathe and has to charge $30 per hour = $60 extra.

- some dealers order the lathes without motor and add themseves a
locally bought quality motor. Motor and labour easily add $ 50 to the
overall cost.

It is clear from above that a better quality lathe has to cost more.
But the price alone is a bad measure for quality, cause some dealers
simply want to make more profit. Be wary if a dealer
offers "specials" at 20 or 30% discount. A serious dealer could not
do that, he would loose money. But a junk dealer may still make a
good profit. Chris

PS: if looking for a similar but larger design, this BVC25 is made by
http://www.china-bv.com/product/bvc25.htm

| 139|135|2004-02-29 15:01:35|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Silver and Deming Drills OT|

The best big drills are the 3 & 4 flute drills harder to find and
cost more but you can drill bigger holes with less power..Bob
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" Ohio. A cheap set but they work, probably made in Mow Mee, China!!!.
Just used the 1" and 3/4" today boring out the inside of an aluminum
piston.

| 140|132|2004-02-29 15:55:35|William Schmiedlin|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Who is the distributor for this lathe (BVC-30) Chris?

William Schmiedlin

PS: if looking for a similar but larger design, this BVC25 is made by
http://www.china-bv.com/product/bvc25.htm

---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.580 / Virus Database: 367 - Release Date: 2/6/04

| 141|132|2004-03-01 00:52:00|cba_melbourne|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

William, can't tell you. I know of four factories in China, making
countless versions of bench lathes in this size class. There may be
some more I do not know of cause they have no webpage yet. Now,
they make about a dozen lathes in this size class, but it really is
only three basic designs. The factories seem to share and mix key
components like the castings. The models differ in options (eg geared
head vs belt drive, qc gearbox vs change wheels etc etc). Diferent
dealers in different countries may import this lathe with different
options, colors and names, sometimes making it hard to see if its
fundamentally the same base model. In this case, I think the
particular shape of the bed legs and the tailstock could give a clue
to compare. Chris

| 142|132|2004-03-01 04:47:15|William Schmiedlin|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Thanks for the input.

I am learning quite a bit about imported machine tools, for that is all I
work on all day. Working for Milltronics on the import mill line, we import
machines that are not finished and finish them to our own standards and
install all of the electrical components and obviously have "Made in the
USA," quality pride in every machine we sell.

And that is why Bob? at Lathemaster charges a little more for his
tools...cause the work right out of "His" box. It costs money to make a
great product, and I commend him for doing so. Just wish there was a QC
gearbox option.

William Schmiedlin

-----Original Message-----
From: cba_melbourne [mailto:chris.banninger@...]
Sent: Sunday, February 29, 2004 4:52 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?

William, can't tell you. I know of four factories in China, making
countless versions of bench lathes in this size class. There may be
some more I do not know of cause they have no webpage yet. Now,
they make about a dozen lathes in this size class, but it really is
only three basic designs. The factories seem to share and mix key
components like the castings. The models differ in options (eg geared
head vs belt drive, qc gearbox vs change wheels etc etc). Diferent
dealers in different countries may import this lathe with different
options, colors and names, sometimes making it hard to see if its
fundamentally the same base model. In this case, I think the
particular shape of the bed legs and the tailstock could give a clue
to compare. Chris

Yahoo! Groups Links

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| 143|132|2004-03-01 10:15:52|cba_melbourne|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

IMO it's worth the extra money. Sure, a lot can be improved by the
end buyer with "sweat equity", but not everything. So far there has
been no negative feedback about Bob's lathe anywhere on the net - and
that has to mean something. I have no intersst in his business, am
not even a customer, just a believer that at a given price, a simpler
basic machine from a honest dealer offers the better quality and
value. Chris

| 144|132|2004-03-01 13:28:44|cba_melbourne|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

William, some more BV30 variations:

http://www.china-dy.com/eproduct.htm

http://www.ezmro.co.kr/korea_page/img/product_img/mini/bench/bench.htm

| 145|132|2004-03-02 18:29:16|Alan Trest|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

I could not agree more with Chris's statement below.

I have to my knowledge bought more machines from bob than anyone
else as well as tooling and accessories. I have found him to be
honest, responsive and in general a very nice person to do business
with. Needless to say, I have a very favorable impression of his
machines. The Lathemaster Lathe I am using is a superb, simple, well
built machine that I will put up against any lathe in its class and
many others that some consider superior.

I have received hundreds of emails since my webpage went online and
have yet to get a negative response about the machines or
Bob. (I take that back, one person was bothered by the smell of the
paint) and I believe that it was kept inside his house. That's the
extent of the dissatisfaction I have personally heard.

The only negative comments in the forums are from people who have
never seen a Lathemaster Machine but "know the machine" from other
interations or suppliers or makers. I say, at least use the
machine before you judge it.

Alan Trest
has
and
simpler

| 146|146|2004-03-03 23:18:00|kd6wd|New member|

Hello everyone. My name is John Labutski and I live in Ocala
Florida. I am a Ham (amateur radio operator) and my call sign is
kd6wd. I have been overhauling the HF 7x10's for friends for a long
time. I used to be active in bench rest target shooting and
overhauled about 10 or 11 of the 7x10's for my shooting friends
besides two of my own. I am by no means a master machinist but I was
not to bad at smoothing out compounds and adding bearings or bushings
where needed. I sold my all my swarf making equipment in California
about two months ago when I moved to Ocala Florida. I then purchased
another mini-mill and another 7x10 from HF. I don't normally complain
about products that I know when I buy them need to be tweaked or in
some cases rebuilt, but the lead screw threads on the compound on my
latest 7x10 had to have been cut with a rusty nail.

Thanks to Dan Hautz and his webb site (Dan is also a Ham), I
discovered Lathemaster. After swapping a few emails with Dan it
became evident that Dan (who is very demanding of precision)really
enjoyed his 8x14. That week our local HF had the 9x20 on sale for
$599.00. You would think a great price right. Wrong! Opened the gear
box cover and what do I see. There is still a darn plastic gear in
there, and a tiny pinch of metal shavings. Its one thing to see metal
chips or dirt where the lathe bed bolts down to the plywood for
shipping, its a whole different animal when they are in the gearbox.
The other thing that is clearly apparent is that Lathemaster comes
complete with a three jaw, four jaw, follow and steady rests, feed
reverse gear. Add these all up and the 8x14 is a very good deal. The
8x14 is twice the size of a 7x10 about about twice the weight. The
thing that is really neat is the fact that Lathemaster has a direct
bolt on 5c collet chuck for this lathe. This fact alone gives you a
mini Hardinge.

After one phone call to Bob, it became evident that he clearly
understands metalwork. He like I, turned cranks for a while before
before we went to college. On my second call I ordered my 8x14. I
should be receiving my Lathemaster 8x14 in about 10 days. I
understand they just cleared customs.

You all seem like a neat bunch of individuals. I am looking forward
to each of your projects.

John Labutski, Ocala Florida

| 147|132|2004-03-03 23:18:02|x86ricer|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Alen,

I have made my decision. I am going to order an 8x14 from Bob. I do want to find more
information and examples of the shops with an 8x14. You mention on your site that you
are working on video of the lathe. When is it going to be posted? I also would love to see
some pictures of your lathe with the variable speed moters installed and hear what your
take on their performance. Speaking of pictures, the "Photos" section of this group is
kinda week. If you don't have acess to a digital camera and want to send in photos, you
could go get one of the disposable cameras that when you develop the pictures, they put
the images on CD for you. Just a thought.

Ben

| 148|132|2004-03-04 22:54:55|kmcmachineworks|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Check this site out if you have not done so yet
http://www.tedatum.com/thms/

Very good site on the 8X14 lathe

KMc

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "x86ricer" do want to find more
your site that you
I also would love to see
installed and hear what your
section of this group is
to send in photos, you
the pictures, they put
well
and
and
the
the
other
the
net -
am
and

| 149|146|2004-03-05 02:47:25|Alan Trest|Re: New member|

Welcome to the forum John. I'm sure you will be very happy with your
new lathe. You will also be impressed with Bob at Lathemaster. He is
very responsive to his customers.

Alan T.

| 150|132|2004-03-05 02:52:23|Alan Trest|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

Hi Ben,

I actually have some video already. My problem is the video capture
card I bought would not support some of the other applications I use.
Primarily Cad/Cam and they are much more essential to my needs. I am
looking at another video capture card that is external and should
allow for me to move from the digital tape to mpegs for the webpage.
I have not dedicated enough time lately to updating my page as
between work and a remodel in my house, time just is not there. I
hopefully will be able to continue to update soon tho.

Alan Trest

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "x86ricer" do want to find more
your site that you
I also would love to see
installed and hear what your
section of this group is
to send in photos, you
the pictures, they put
well
and
and
the
the
other
the
net -
am
and

| 151|146|2004-03-05 18:01:31|mineralman55|Re: New member|

John,

What did your friends do with the mini lathes for shooting?

Larry
New Orleans

| 152|132|2004-03-05 19:59:42|kmcmachineworks|Re: Manufacturer of the 8x14?|

You can have more than one video card installed into your P.C.
windows 98 and up will have no problems with multi video cards and
monitors.

KMc

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Trest" use.
am
webpage.
I
on
posted?
anyone
be
his
have
by
there
business,

| 153|146|2004-03-05 20:06:14|John P. Labutski|Re: New member|

Some of them used the mini's for recrowning barrels. Almost all used the mini's for polishing and honing standard reloading dies, reaming and neck triming. I and many others used them to polish cartridge cases. Some of us made our own firing pins. Best I can remember 4 or 5 of the guys got vises and and some made custom scope mounts. I used mine to get a mirror finish on my heavy barreled .220 Swift. So it was primarily catridge work such as polish, ream, hone, and some barrel ding removal. Bench rest shooting is primarily an experimenters game You have ton of accessories which are primarily round. Such as swaging dies, bullet seating dies, powder measures, etc. All of these items need tweaking to assure loaded cartridge uniformity and minimum case deformation during firing. I hope this somewhat answers your question.

John

| 154|154|2004-03-12 07:06:04|x86ricer|Cross Slide and compound TPI?|

Can anyone tell me the TPI of the Cross Slide and Coumpound?
Wondering what the movement is with one full turn of the wheel.

| 155|154|2004-03-13 06:49:57|metalmill52|Re: Cross Slide and compound TPI?|

Jerry,

The cross slide (saddle) has 100 thou per revolution (10 pitch screw)
and it has a very nice adjustable zero-set ring marked off in 100
increments. The compound has 50 thou per revolution (20 pitch) with
a non-adjustable ring on the handwheel. They are very smooth in
operation, well made and a pleasure to use!

I'll post some updated pics of my (Guy Lautard) rotary table project
soon. I'm fairly close to getting it done, and really enjoying my
shop time on the Lathemaster. I can't resist saying that the big 4
jaw chuck is very versatile and sturdy. Just look at the exisitng
pics I've posted!

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "x86ricer"

| 156|156|2004-03-16 03:14:23|Bill Wilkins|Compound inch wheel|

Hello All,

The inch wheel on my compound is adjustable. All of the inch wheels
came from the factory very hard to move. I disassembled all of my
handwheel/inch wheels and loosed the friction spring that is
underneath the inch wheel. Had to do it on the X3 also. They only
need to be tight enough so that they don't spin freely but easy to
reset with out having to put a pipewrench on the handwheel to hold it
steady... I think all of the Chines stuff has to be tweeked.

Regards, BGBill

| 157|156|2004-03-16 04:12:00|metalmill52|Re: Compound inch wheel|

BGBill,

Thanks, I'll check it out. I thought about that after I sent the
post. If it is moveable, I'll need to loosen it up! Doesn't bother
me as is, though, as I've not had a need to feed it and reset it...

Thanks again,
Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" wheels
it

| 158|158|2004-03-17 16:35:03|John Labutski|x3 versus big Lathemaster Bench mill.|

Anyone have both of these mills? I occasionally work with mild and
tool steels. But, I am currently limited on what I can add to my home
work shop. I have an 8x14 on order which will handle my lathe
requirements, but I am am trying to make up my mind on a new mill.
Age is 62 so this will be my last milling machine. Prior to this I
had a Bridgeport which I sold prior to my move from California to
Florida. I have a minimill (hf) which is fine for doing plastics and
aluminum but it moans and groans doing steel. The machine space in my
garage is somewhat limited. One wall 24 feet long for all my tools.
Band saw, 2 grinders, minimill, minilathe, drill press and a (soon to
arrive a) 8x14 and just enough room for left for a small mill. Any
comments in regard to which size of mill would be really appreciated.

You can email me direct at:

kd6wd@...

Thanks guys

| 159|158|2004-03-18 06:12:39|mineralman55|Re: x3 versus big Lathemaster Bench mill.|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" home
and
my
tools.
to
appreciated.
I don't think Bob has any more of the "big" mills. I have the x3 and
am very happy with it. That being said, this is my first mill, and
I'm a hacker machinist. I've had it make 0.060 inch cuts in
stainless steel with an 1/2 inch HSS endmill and it didn't complain.
The fit and finish is superb, although I had some initial problems
with the "y" axis feed, it's pretty much solved now. It's as much
due to my lack of ability as a machinist as anything. If you're
limited in space, this is one fine machine.

Larry
New Orleans

| 160|160|2004-03-20 05:25:34|metalmill52|New project photos uploaded|

Hi Folks!

I just uploaded my second set of pix of my Guy Lautard 3.75" rotary
table project. The photos show cutting an inside dovetail groove for
the stops and nuts, as well as threading the ring nut and making the
stops. Each step was facinating to me (a novice at this)and I can
truly say I'm learning a bunch by making this small project. I can
also say the 8x14 is both capable and forgiving!

You can see the second batch by going to the photos section of this
group, opening the Bill C folder and you will see my first 6 pix and
a box with another folder in it. Click on the box with folder for
the second batch (I guess you can tell they were still using punch
cards for computers when I was in school!).

Happy Machining,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

PS - I finished the article on my homemade milling machine. I could
post it if y'all want (don't want to hog the space since it's a
little OT).

| 161|160|2004-03-20 09:05:55|Clint D|Re: New project photos uploaded|

Bill C

By all means, I would love to see the files, etc on the homemade mill

Clint

| 162|162|2004-03-20 16:39:09|Bill Wilkins|Home shop made Mill|

Bill C.

Yes, let see the mill pics. I'm sure you had to use the 8X14 to make
a part or two. The more posts on this site the better.

Project report; All machining is done on my hit & miss engine. The
last thing I made was the rings. Now working on the push rod and
govenor control. Will post a couple pics soon.

Regards,
BGBill

| 163|163|2004-03-20 18:05:45|lathemaster@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to lathemaster |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the lathemaster
group.

File : /MetalMill Conversion Article/Model 10ER MetalMill Conversion - last one.pdf
Uploaded by : metalmill52 <wacleary@... Description : MetalMill Conversion article

You can access this file at the URL

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/files/MetalMill%20Conversion%20Article/Model%2010ER%20MetalMill%20Conversion%20-%20last%20one.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit

http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

metalmill52 <wacleary@...| 164|164|2004-03-23 20:15:51|Mike Eorgoff|X3 Motor mount|

Has anyone looked at flipping the motor up? Since it is an open cooling
motor, seems that it would be prone to ingesting chips or getting coolant
into the motor.

Mike Eorgoff

| 165|165|2004-03-23 22:27:40|John Labutski|Just got my 8x14|

I have only had the 8x14 for about six hours. I would like to quote
Jackie Gleason. "How Swe_ee_eet it is!!!!". I have spent this time
looking for something to complain about. I finally found something
that I will change right away. I am going to add a knob to replace
the screw that holds the door to the gear box shut and replace the
flat screw and washer. My initial conclusions are: Its a great lathe
at a very reasonable price. The one thing that surprised me is how
quiet it is when running. About the same noise level as my little
7x10. All in all I am "one happy camper".

| 166|166|2004-03-24 02:18:24|Bill Wilkins|Pulley & gear cover.|

Hello John L.,

Read post # 64. on what I did. I can change speeds in 15 seconds,
cover off to cover on. I didn't want to fiddle with unscrewing
something everytime I wanted to change speeds.

Good Luck and Enjoy

BGBill

| 167|166|2004-03-24 02:36:06|metalmill52|Re: Pulley & gear cover.|

I second BGBill's comment! I inverted the bolt like he suggested and
now I just lift and pull to open the door. Glad you like the 8x14
so much John L., we know what you mean about "sweeeet!"

Best Regards,
Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins"

| 168|168|2004-03-24 21:09:11|Green, James|New Guy on the Block|

Has anybody added a DRO scale to the carriage?????

| 169|164|2004-03-24 21:14:55|mineralman55|Re: X3 Motor mount|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Eorgoff" cooling
coolant
I haven't noticed any problem with chips getting up into my motor,
and I dry mill. The X3 just throws them laterally--- a long distance
I might add.

One thing I have emailed Sieg about is a chip screen. They replied a
small one was available if I wanted to order it.

Larry
New Orleans

| 170|170|2004-03-26 20:37:02|n1ych|X3 CNC + Ball Screw Conversion|

Hello,
I looking to convert my X3 to CNC with Ballscrews. Has anyone every
converted the X3 to CNC? If so I would LOVE to get some information
on how you did your conversion.
Thanks!
Bob

| 171|166|2004-03-28 16:34:43|John Labutski|Re: Pulley & gear cover and new 8x14|

Slick idea for quick repositioning of that idler. I noticed that your
toothed drive belt is black. My is clear and amber in color and is
reinforced with longitudinal strands of fiber. Did you replace yours?
I found that my spindel bearing preload was a bit high. Headstock got
pretty warm so I backed mine off a bit. I was very happy that the
balance of the lathe is super at high spindle rpm's. All the belt
drive pulley's are very precisely machined. I only have about 7 hours
run time on the 8x14 and am still getting a feel for the machine.
Some years back, I got to play with a Hardinge for about a half hour.
The memory is somewhat vague, but the 8x14 has that same comfortable
feel. Its kind of hard to put in words, but I am sure some of you
guys (who were professional machinists) know what I am talking about.

I don't know what the exact weight of this lathe is but it was
heavier than I thought it would be after finally getting it up on the
bench. I have one of those HF foldable 2 ton cranes. Its slick but
when we built my new work benches, I failed to leave enough clearance
for the legs of the crane to get under the foot rest that I had
screwed, glued, and bolted under the bench. So it required brute
force to get the lathe up on the bench. We are building a new bench
for a mill from Lathemaster and I don't plan to make the same mistake
twice. At my age (62) I prefer to sit on my duff at the machines
instead of standing which is the reason I put the footrests on in the
first place. Dan Hautz (on his webb site) has some sturdy designs for
his lathe bench which look like they are economical to build and very
solid. I am cloning his design for my new mill and just raising the
bottom shelf for sufficient clearance for the HF crane.

By the way, if you don't have one of these foldable cranes, they are
great. Before I moved to Florida I had one that was not foldable. The
foldable one varies in price from $149.95 to $199.95 on sale. When
you have one of these you will be amazed how many things you end up
using it for. I used mine to get a new garden tractor off of my
buddies truck, move a large oak entertainement center into the house,
get the 8x14 out of the 18 wheeler and saved a $50.00 tailgate
charge, lifted a new refrigerator off the pickup truck. It sure saves
the back an eliminates dangerous situations. The new foldable crane
only takes up a small space in one corner of the garage and has
already paid for itself in saved delivery charges. The wife is making
a cover for it, but I don't see why. I think it kind of looks cool!!

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins"

| 172|172|2004-03-29 16:42:42|clint_sims|trouble cutting threads|

I just bought my 8x14 and am having trouble figuring out how to
change the gears. and what gear goes where per the gear chart. and
what does the 1-8 or 1-5 mean on the indicator table. i am trying to
cut 40 tpi on a piece of brass.

thanks Clint

| 173|173|2004-03-29 16:43:18|clint_sims|quick change tool post|

can anyone tell me how to go about adding a qctp to my 8x14 lathe, i
got the one that bob sent with the lathe, but dont know just how to
put it on or what to modify on the slide. does the bolt sticking up
out of the slide have to come off.

thanks Clint

| 174|173|2004-03-29 16:49:58|John P. Labutski|Re: quick change tool post|

go to the Dan Hautz site.

http://www.tedatum.com/

Dan shows how he did his.

| 175|173|2004-03-29 17:18:13|Green, James|Re: quick change tool post|

I just received a QCTP from Bob and the mounting bolt was already installed
on the modified compound slide that came with it........ Either Bob or the
factory used a fly cutter on the compound slide to lower the tool post about
an 1/8" I paid $169.00 for the wedge type QCTP and the new compound
slide....... Enco has a wedge type QCTP for $159.00 but you have some
machine work to get it to fit correctly.

Check out Dan's web site and see what he did with a Enco QCTP.

<http://tedatum.com/thms/index.html

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: clint_sims [mailto:clint_sims@...]
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 4:39 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] quick change tool post

can anyone tell me how to go about adding a qctp to my 8x14 lathe, i
got the one that bob sent with the lathe, but dont know just how to
put it on or what to modify on the slide. does the bolt sticking up
out of the slide have to come off.

thanks Clint

| 176|173|2004-03-29 17:38:04|Berg, Bob|Re: quick change tool post|

I just purchase a Phase II QCTP Piston Style from ENCO for $89.00! with
5 different tool holders!

-----Original Message-----
From: Green, James [mailto:james.green@...]
Sent: March 29, 2004 08:17
To: 'lathemaster@yahoogroups.com'
Subject: RE: [lathemaster] quick change tool post

I just received a QCTP from Bob and the mounting bolt was already
installed
on the modified compound slide that came with it........ Either Bob or
the
factory used a fly cutter on the compound slide to lower the tool post
about
an 1/8" I paid $169.00 for the wedge type QCTP and the new compound
slide....... Enco has a wedge type QCTP for $159.00 but you have some
machine work to get it to fit correctly.

Check out Dan's web site and see what he did with a Enco QCTP.

<http://tedatum.com/thms/index.html

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: clint_sims [mailto:clint_sims@...]
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 4:39 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] quick change tool post

can anyone tell me how to go about adding a qctp to my 8x14 lathe, i
got the one that bob sent with the lathe, but dont know just how to
put it on or what to modify on the slide. does the bolt sticking up
out of the slide have to come off.

thanks Clint

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 177|172|2004-03-29 17:41:14|Green, James|Re: trouble cutting threads|

Open up the head stock door and view the picture on the front of the door.
Currently you probably have a 80 tooth, 30 tooth and a 100 tooth gear in a
vertical line. You probably also have a 35 and 90 tooth gears in a vertical
line. I am not at home so I can't tell you which of these 5 gears you'll
need to change out to obtain a 40 tpi. When changing gears, in my opinion I
have found it to be easier to "mesh" the gears starting at the bottom of
the train "near the lead screw" and working up...... There are only two
jack shafts that you can adjust up and down to get the proper mesh. Use a 8
mm wrench to unfasten the jack shafts so you can slide them up or down to
fit.

I have no idea what 1-8 or 1-5 means???? Maybe I need to take a closer look
at that table / picture on the front of the head stock door????

Hope this helps

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: clint_sims [mailto:clint_sims@...]
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 4:32 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] trouble cutting threads

I just bought my 8x14 and am having trouble figuring out how to
change the gears. and what gear goes where per the gear chart. and
what does the 1-8 or 1-5 mean on the indicator table. i am trying to
cut 40 tpi on a piece of brass.

thanks Clint

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/S=:HM/A=1950447/rand=931886311

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Yahoo! Groups Links

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* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "clint_sims" to
Clint, I will try and explain the best I can. For the 40 tpi you need
the 30, 40, 70, &100 tooth gear.(taken from the SAE plate on the
lathe)
Looking at the lathe from the front the 70 will go on the top right
of the banjo. Right below it will be the 40. To the outside or left
on the same shaft then will be the 30. Right below it will be the 100
on the leadscrew. The gears go in the postion that they are on the
plate.
I don't know where you are getting the 1-5 or the 1-8, nothing like
that on my lathe???

Good Luck, once you do it a couple times it will make sense.

Regards, BGBill

| 179|179|2004-03-30 06:00:36|Bill Wilkins|QCTP & Compound|

Jim G.,
Can you post some pics of the tool post and compound that has been
modified. What Brand QCTP is it? How did you learn of the offering
from Lathemaster? Its not on the web site. I have emailed Bob but
yet to hear from him about it.

Thanks BGBill

| 180|172|2004-03-30 06:39:07|metalmill52|Re: trouble cutting threads|

Clint,

Welcome to the group. BGBill is right on about the gears and
sequence - I wanted to add that this is all MUCH easier if you use a
3/16" hex wrench to loosen the capscrew at the bottom of the banjo
and rotate the banjo toward the front of the lathe (I'd be
embarasssed to tell you how long it took me to figure that out).
Now it is just a matter of unbolting whatever gears are on the studs
on the banjo and replacing them as BGBill describes. The middle 2
gears ride on the same stud (shown as D E in the diagram). When all
gears are in place, gently rotate the banjo back and turn the top
gear as necessary to engage the bull gear near the spindle - I
almost forgot, you can slide the studs along the banjo to get the
gears to achieve the correct meshing - don't forget to tighten them.

I'm not sure about this, but I think the 1-5 and 1-8 you are seeing
is on the threading dial that engages the halfnut? I'll defer to one
of the experienced group members to educate us both on exactly what
that means, but I keep it simple by always choosing the same "mark"
on that dial to engage the half nut when threading. Yes, sometimes
I have to wait a long time, but it gives me time to concentrate on
what I'm doing (and enjoy it). Remember to cut the threads with a
sharp 60 degree point cutting straight into the work. I've not cut
brass, so I don't know about using a cutting fluid. Tap Magic works
well for aluminum and steel. Please keep asking if you need help, I
know I always learn something from the questions and answers (and
this group is full of great folks!)

Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola FL.
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" and
trying
need
right
left
100
like

| 181|172|2004-03-30 13:23:43|clint_sims|Re: trouble cutting threads|

Bill,

i think i understand what you are talking about but i have 5
gears on the gearholder attached to the feed screw. do i use the
chart from top to bottom or bottom to top if so where does the other
gear come in. the 1-8 or 1-5 and etc..... is on the little chart to
the right side of the carrage attached to the dial block.
do you have a phone # for bob at lathemaster.

thanks clint

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" and
need
100

| 182|172|2004-03-30 13:23:47|clint_sims|Re: trouble cutting threads|

Bill,

i have 5 gears and the chart only shows 4

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "metalmill52" a
studs
all
one
works
I

| 183|179|2004-03-30 15:10:41|Green, James|Re: QCTP & Compound|

I will do my best of getting a camera and taking some pictures...... Bob
told me about his QCTP last October when I called and asked him dozens of
questions about his 8 x 14 lathe. He was suppose to get them in about
Christmas time but I guess the boat finally showed up. The QCTP is about
2.5" square and comes with 5 tool holders and a knurling tool. I am still
in the process of cleaning up the tool holders. All the pieces are made of
steel, i.e. no aluminum!!!!!! I have no idea on what brand it is but all
the tool holders come in boxes that have QCTP stamped al over it.........

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Wilkins [mailto:bgwilkin@...]
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 11:01 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] QCTP & Compound

Jim G.,
Can you post some pics of the tool post and compound that has been
modified. What Brand QCTP is it? How did you learn of the offering
from Lathemaster? Its not on the web site. I have emailed Bob but
yet to hear from him about it.

Thanks BGBill

| 184|172|2004-03-30 15:22:59|Green, James|Re: trouble cutting threads|

Your factory setup was probably this and does use 5 gears
35 80
90 30
100

Use this pattern to cut 40 tpi threads and only 4 gears.
70
30 40
100

There is not a gear next to the 70 tooth gear on the top shaft. On the lead
screw "feed screw", remove the phillip head screw, washer, keyed collar and
100 tooth. Install the keyed collar first, then the 100 tooth gear, washer
and finally the phillip head screw.

-----Original Message-----
From: clint_sims [mailto:clint_sims@...]
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2004 11:42 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: trouble cutting threads

Bill,

i think i understand what you are talking about but i have 5
gears on the gearholder attached to the feed screw. do i use the
chart from top to bottom or bottom to top if so where does the other
gear come in. the 1-8 or 1-5 and etc..... is on the little chart to
the right side of the carrage attached to the dial block.
do you have a phone # for bob at lathemaster.

thanks clint

| 185|185|2004-03-30 20:47:17|cooltool49|Question about 8x14|

I was looking, again, at the Lathemaster site and the picture of the
8x14. I also looked at the pic of the HF 8x14. Are they the same
machine? Are the HF machines the rejects and the Lathemaster the
goood ones? Does anybody have any experience with the HF 8x14? The
reason I ask is because the freight on the Lathemaster would come
close to doubling its price for my location (even if they were to
become available, again).
Thanks,
Jerry

| 186|185|2004-03-30 20:55:57|Green, James|Re: Question about 8x14|

Double the price??? Ouch...... I have no personal experience with the HF 8
x 14 except hearing a bunch of war stories about waiting and waiting for HF
to deliver on their products. I would also like to hear the pros and cons
of a HF 8 x 14.....

James Green

I was looking, again, at the Lathemaster site and the picture of the
8x14. I also looked at the pic of the HF 8x14. Are they the same
machine? Are the HF machines the rejects and the Lathemaster the
goood ones? Does anybody have any experience with the HF 8x14? The
reason I ask is because the freight on the Lathemaster would come
close to doubling its price for my location (even if they were to
become available, again).
Thanks,
Jerry

| 187|185|2004-03-30 21:09:04|John P. Labutski|Re: Question about 8x14|

Take a look at what you get with the HF and then see what you get with the Lathemaster. Also HF appears to have a shorter bed. Also it depends on where you live. There is sales tax on the HF and none on the Lathemaster (unless you live in Louisianna). If you have a problem, Bob will answer your emails or phone calls. HF is a bit slow to say the least. The chucks on the Lathemaster appear to be of better quality and you get both the 3 & 4 jaws with the Lathemaster. You also get the steady and follow rests. Most guys that have the 8x14 from lathemaster think its a very good product. I have the HF 7x10 and recently had the HF 9x20 for about 4 months which I just sold. If you want a detailed peek at the 8x14 go to Dan Hautz's webb site. Its probably one of the better small lathe and mill webb sites and has some neat links to the other good webb sites and has really great pictures. Dan does a great job of being objective and has a lot of common sense wisdom packed in it as well. It will be time well spent as well as just plain enjoyable.

http://tedatum.com/thms/

| 188|188|2004-03-30 21:45:05|cooltool49|8x14 question - part 2|

I forgot to mention that I live in Alaska.
Bob told me he will not ship up here due to cost.
I am actually leaning toward the Grizzly 9x19.
Freight from Tacoma, Wash is about $125 which is considerably less
that the freight on the Cummins 7x12 (2nd day air only - $230) or the
Homier 7x12 (they told me flat - NO).
I have heard/read many horror stories about HF, but also much praise.
Overall, when considering the freight, the reputation, and machine
capabilities, the Grizz comes out ahead (I'm aware of the "kit"
properties everyone talks about).
Oh yes, being currently unemployed is having a negative impact on
joining the lathe owners club, also. The chief financial adviser
(designated spousal unit) doesn't really understand my needs. But that
is another story.
Jerry

| 189|188|2004-03-30 23:27:07|Green, James|Re: 8x14 question - part 2|

$125.00 isn't too bad for shipping on a Grizzly. Has HF branched out to
Alaska yet????

It's really hard to veto a decision from the chief financial adviser.
Dinner and a quiet evening works wonder on my adviser....... :)

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: cooltool49 [mailto:cooltool49@...]
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2004 2:44 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] 8x14 question - part 2

I forgot to mention that I live in Alaska.
Bob told me he will not ship up here due to cost.
I am actually leaning toward the Grizzly 9x19.
Freight from Tacoma, Wash is about $125 which is considerably less
that the freight on the Cummins 7x12 (2nd day air only - $230) or the
Homier 7x12 (they told me flat - NO).
I have heard/read many horror stories about HF, but also much praise.
Overall, when considering the freight, the reputation, and machine
capabilities, the Grizz comes out ahead (I'm aware of the "kit"
properties everyone talks about).
Oh yes, being currently unemployed is having a negative impact on
joining the lathe owners club, also. The chief financial adviser
(designated spousal unit) doesn't really understand my needs. But that
is another story.
Jerry

| 191|191|2004-03-31 01:01:21|cooltool49|HF in Alaska?|

No, HF does not have a presence in Alaska, yet.
None of the "down in America" companies come up here except for
Shopsmith, about twice a year.
It's very frustrating to get things shipped up here. Most companies
seem to think that UPS 2nd day is the only way. Some outfits even
think tha US mail from Granolaland, aka California, costs considerably
more than normal. If I can convince the spousal unit, I will place an
order for the Grizz soon.
I plan to stay in the group, cuz I have a lot to learn. I have been
reading all the dribble on the 7x10 group about some class action
lawsuit, & I'm about ready to puke. Even so, now & then someone does
ask a relevant question, and I gather some useful info.
Thanks again for the answers & for the patience for a newbie knothead.
Jerry

| 192|192|2004-03-31 03:13:22|Bill Wilkins|Thread Dial|

Hello All,

This is from "How to Run a Lathe, 1942 Edition"

For all even numbered threads, close the half nuts at any line on the
dial.

For all odd numbered threads, close the half nuts at any numbered
line on the dial.

For all threads involving 1/2 thread per inch, such as 11 1/2, close
the half nuts at any odd numbered line.

For quarter threads and eight threads, close the half nuts at the
original starting position.

To verify, stick in a piece of scrap first.

In reference to a previous post about my toothed belt, it is just
dirty. Cleaned up it also is the yellowish amber color.

Thanks for the additional posts on changing gears. Everyone's input
is important and helpful.

Regards, BGBill

| 193|188|2004-03-31 05:00:45|Alan Trest|Re: 8x14 question - part 2|

Get a Job interview here on the Gulf Coast.
Spend a couple of days looking at housing and while you are out, stop
by Bobs and just pick one up.

Write off the trip as a legitimate business expense.

Alan T.

Its "Alot warmer in Florida"
that
They never do, believe me.

Alan T.

| 194|188|2004-03-31 07:40:26|George & Cathy Dunham|How to contact lathemaster??|

Hi All

Are there alternate methods to contact Bob at Lathemaster?? No
response to emails???

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-5124

| 195|188|2004-03-31 15:47:22|Bill Wilkins|Re: How to contact lathemaster??|

Bob at Lathemaster has been on vacation lately. I just got my reply yesterday from an email sent last week sometime. Just be patient. I can only imagine the load of emails he may get in a day, let along a week, ebay doesn't go on vacation...

BGBill

| 196|196|2004-03-31 19:07:48|John Labutski|Electric Motors|

Has anyone installed an american made motor on their 8x14? If so what
brand and model number? I would like a 1750 motor and not variable
speed.

| 197|188|2004-03-31 20:06:49|John Labutski|Re: How to contact lathemaster??|

My understanding is that he was stuck due to canceled flights between
LA and Baton Rouge. He's usually pretty good on aswering or calling
back on things. I sure would hate to travel air anymore. When I moved
to Florida I drove out from California in 4 days. When the family
came out two weeks later, they had a heck of a time getting here.
Their so called "none stop" to Florida became a national tour. They
only beat my travel time by 1, "repeat ONE" , day.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" yesterday from an email sent last week sometime. Just be patient. I
can only imagine the load of emails he may get in a day, let along a
week, ebay doesn't go on vacation...

| 198|198|2004-03-31 21:32:25|Mike Eorgoff|X3 Belt size?|

Does anyone know the belt size for the X3 mill and/or a major manufacturer
replacement for it?

Mike Eorgoff

| 199|199|2004-04-01 01:46:50|x86ricer|Tumbler Reverse?|

Has anyone made a tumbler reverse for the 8x14, instead of having to
install and uninstall a reversing gear? If so does anyone have a
picture that they can e-mail me? Just trying to get some ideas.

Ben

| 200|200|2004-04-01 07:17:56|clint_sims|tachometer installation|

I just bought a tachometer from the littlemachindshop site, it is a
neat little rig but i am not sure how to install it, mostly the gear
looking part of the pickup system, please help if you can. I am
trying to install it on a lathemaster 8x14.

thanks Clint

| 201|199|2004-04-01 14:35:45|Green, James|Re: Tumbler Reverse?|

I would like to hear ideas on this too. Would like to use my knurling tool
and really don't want to add / remove the reverse gear three or four times
to get a good knurl pattern.

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: x86ricer [mailto:jerryriged@...]
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 6:47 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Tumbler Reverse?

Has anyone made a tumbler reverse for the 8x14, instead of having to
install and uninstall a reversing gear? If so does anyone have a
picture that they can e-mail me? Just trying to get some ideas.

Ben

| 202|202|2004-04-01 22:18:57|cooltool49|Messed up again|

Hi all.
I'm still shaking about an incident that just ocurred a few minutes
ago in my garage/shop.
This is a bit off topic; however, shop safety should be of serious
concern to all of us. I was very lucky.
The following link it to my personal site, which I never use. I'll
leave the files on there for a couple of weeks.
I'm not proud of my stupidity, but display this to prevent someone
else from encountering the same type of accident(maybe with less
positive results)
Jerry

http://home.gci.net/~jmorris/TRASHED%20MITER%20SAW.html

| 203|202|2004-04-02 00:21:48|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Messed up again|

THANKS Jerry, I know things happen real fast and we need to be
careful...Bob
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cooltool49"

| 204|202|2004-04-02 00:41:24|kmcmachineworks|Re: Messed up again|

This is why you use band saws.

KMc

| 205|199|2004-04-02 01:01:44|kmcmachineworks|Re: Tumbler Reverse?|

If my eyes don't deceive me, ( have yet to order my 8x14 ) isn't the
power train ( motor, pulleys, gears ) the same as the 9x14 lathes?? I
have seen many many photos of both and would say that they are the
same and that particular modification should work on the 8x14 as well.

Here is an example of one

http://bedair.org/Tumble/Tumble.html

KMc

| 206|199|2004-04-02 16:31:51|Green, James|Re: Tumbler Reverse?|

The two gear trains resemble each other to a point. The 8 x 14 lathe
already uses a 40 tooth "filler" gear to produce a right-to-left "forward"
cutting motion. Add the another filler / idler / reverse gear to produce a
left-to-right "reverse" cutting motion. It's might be possible to add a
sliding gear plate for the filler / idler gear to reverse the feed. i.e.
Slide the gear plate in and get reverse feed, slide it out and get forward
feed. Maybe add a second sliding gear plate for the already present filler
gear to have neutral???? There is no room between the gears and head stock
to add this sliding plate so you get control it from the front side of the
lathe. It might be possible to control the sliding gear from the back side
of the lathe?????

Currently there are two or three holes that can be used to place the two
idler gears. Not sure if you have to move the already present filler gear
to another mounting hole when you add the reverse gear??????

My two cents worth

James Green

If my eyes don't deceive me, ( have yet to order my 8x14 ) isn't the
power train ( motor, pulleys, gears ) the same as the 9x14 lathes?? I
have seen many many photos of both and would say that they are the
same and that particular modification should work on the 8x14 as well.

| 207|207|2004-04-02 20:06:03|cooltool49|Messed Up - Final Chapter|

Greetings,
I am much calmer today, and have had time to reflect on the miter box
incident of Apr 1. I took a pic of the blade and created some
thoughts on the incident and posted them on my personal web space. If
you desire to see the blade, go to the following link. I hope this
will lay this topic to rest.
Jerry

http://home.gci.net/~jmorris/Blade%20Story.html

| 208|208|2004-04-03 13:04:30|uptoolateman|My 8x14 lathe arrived|

Hi all,
My lathe arrived Tuesday and I did a full tear down to lighten it
for transport to the work bench. I also did a full clean and lube on
it, there was a fair amount of grinding dust but the fit/finish and
all of the movements were nice right out of the box.
The crate was on its last leg by the time it got to Portland OR, I
guess the trip from China to L.A. to Baton Rouge then to Portland was
a bit much for it. The lathe had shifted and was partially sticking
out of one side no damage other than some rubbed off paint. Not near
as good of a crate as the X3 came in.
The freight company didn't think too far ahead when they loaded it
onto the 12' box truck for final delivery. They sent a slightly built
freight hander with nothing more than a hand truck and no room to
manuever the lathe inside the truck. We had to go down the ramp hand
truck first, not an experience I would like to repeat. Once the lathe
hit the ramp I had to go as fast as I could backwards to avoid being
run over and the poor freight handler was holding on for dear life on
the backside to keep it from tipping off the ramp. It took 8' of
aspahlt to stop once we hit the bottom.
I already did a mod to the compound. I found that it was hitting the
button oilers when it was rotated so I recessed the front corners of
the compound base .050". I was not able to remove the spindle to
clean the bearings and put in some new grease. Has anyone had any
luck removing the spindle?
I don't like changing belts so I'm converting to variable speed DC
(spoiled by my Sherline)I also see that the cross-slide spacer mod
would be helpful to gain more travel on the front side of center.

Sorry for rambling on.

Mike...

| 209|208|2004-04-03 15:16:30|John P. Labutski|Re: My 8x14 lathe arrived|

Glad you got your lathe. The crate on my 8x14 was speared by a fork lift on three sides. I think the shipping companies need to drug test their fork lift drivers. Fortunately they missed hitting the lathe. The only thing I had to do to mine was back off the bearing preload on the spindle a very slight amount. Personally I would not remove the spindle. Mine came in dead on for the bore and flange. If you do remove the spindle, I really doubt what ever additional grease you put in will enhance the life of the bearings significantly. I purchased a variable speed drill press from HF which is now out of stock. It goes from 390 to over 3000 rpm using a three sheave torque converter. I plan to use these sheaves for a variable speed setup for the lathe. Once I get the proper setup I will be able to go from 10 or 20 rpm for threading up to 1800 rpm without swapping belts. I just got the drill press so it will take me a week or two of cogitatin' to get it figured out. I will remove the LCD speed indicator from this drill press for an rpm indicator. It looks like it will be a fun project.

| 210|208|2004-04-05 14:23:43|Green, James|Re: My 8x14 lathe arrived|

I would like to hear more about the cross-slide spacer mod.........

Thanks

James Green

Hi all,
My lathe arrived Tuesday and I did a full tear down to lighten it
for transport to the work bench. I also did a full clean and lube on
it, there was a fair amount of grinding dust but the fit/finish and
all of the movements were nice right out of the box.
The crate was on its last leg by the time it got to Portland OR, I
guess the trip from China to L.A. to Baton Rouge then to Portland was
a bit much for it. The lathe had shifted and was partially sticking
out of one side no damage other than some rubbed off paint. Not near
as good of a crate as the X3 came in.
The freight company didn't think too far ahead when they loaded it
onto the 12' box truck for final delivery. They sent a slightly built
freight hander with nothing more than a hand truck and no room to
manuever the lathe inside the truck. We had to go down the ramp hand
truck first, not an experience I would like to repeat. Once the lathe
hit the ramp I had to go as fast as I could backwards to avoid being
run over and the poor freight handler was holding on for dear life on
the backside to keep it from tipping off the ramp. It took 8' of
aspahlt to stop once we hit the bottom.
I already did a mod to the compound. I found that it was hitting the
button oilers when it was rotated so I recessed the front corners of
the compound base .050". I was not able to remove the spindle to
clean the bearings and put in some new grease. Has anyone had any
luck removing the spindle?
I don't like changing belts so I'm converting to variable speed DC
(spoiled by my Sherline)I also see that the cross-slide spacer mod
would be helpful to gain more travel on the front side of center.

| 211|211|2004-04-06 00:25:44|uptoolateman|Re cross slide mod|

james,
The cross slide has 4 1/2" travel but only about half of it is
usable because the cutting tool must go past center to to use the
full travel.
On the 7x and 9x machines they build a spacer to place between the
cross slide bearing mount to place more of the travel on the front
side of center, the overall travel doesn't change though because the
feed screw length is the same. A 3/4" or 1" spacer would probably be
good enough. See the following link, it shows that the feed screw
pocket needs to be lengthened but this is on a 7x lathe the 8x14
already has enough extra room in this area.
http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/xslidemod.html

Hope this helps.
Mike...

| 212|6|2004-04-06 00:34:09|Green, James|QCTP|

I finally got the QCTP that I purchased from Bob cleaned and installed over
the weekend. Found a slight problem with the QCTP and hoping that this list
or Bob will be able to help me. The QCTP will turn quite a bit when you use
a wrench to tighten down the nut on top of the QCTP, unless you really HOLD
the QCTP with your other hand. Sounds like either the bottom of the QCTP or
the compound is not totally flat???? I also used blue Lock Tite 242 where
the mounting shaft screws into the compound. Tonight I will check the
flatness of both pieces and make sure the mounting shaft is not turning. Is
there anything else I should be checking????

James Green

P.S. The boring bar tool holder will hold a .750 boring bar without the
sleeve installed. The sleeve that came with this tool holder will only
tighten down to .600 and not .500 that I was hoping.

| 213|213|2004-04-06 04:35:28|Paul|new Lathemaster offerings?|

Attachments :

A while back i faintly recall someone mentioning that in talking with Bob that some 'very interesting' new Lathemaster imports would soon be available.

Anybody have any informaton on this?

Thanks,

Paul

PS: my Internet connection was disrupted for the last two weeks so if this has been already discussed my appologies.

____________________________________________________

IncrediMail - Email has finally evolved - Click Here

| 214|211|2004-04-06 15:36:47|Green, James|Re: Re cross slide mod|

If you add this extra 3/4" or 1" spacer you might also have to move back the
cross slide threaded support block or make a longer one???? There is a
support block on the other end of the cross slide lead screw, located in the
middle of the cross slide.

I am now getting .0005 - .0015 of TIR when using the three jaw chuck!!!!!
Last night I removed the chuck and found that I had .003 - .004 of TIR on
the spindle faces where the 3 jaw chuck bolts to. I took some real light
cuts on both of the spindle faces and shoulder until I had .00025 or less of
TIR. After cleaning up the spindle area with a chip brush I just snugged up
the bolts when I bolted the 3 jaw chuck back on. I chucked up a 1/2" OD
grounded shaft and tapped the chuck into position with a rubber mallet until
I had .0005 of TIR.

Still need to lap the compound slide and install a bearing into compound
lead screw support block. It's a little too tight for my taste. I've tried
adjusting the compound gib screws but it's either too tight or too sloppy.
I haven't taken apart the tail stock yet but I presume a bearing will be
need there too????

James Green

james,
The cross slide has 4 1/2" travel but only about half of it is
usable because the cutting tool must go past center to to use the
full travel.
On the 7x and 9x machines they build a spacer to place between the
cross slide bearing mount to place more of the travel on the front
side of center, the overall travel doesn't change though because the
feed screw length is the same. A 3/4" or 1" spacer would probably be
good enough. See the following link, it shows that the feed screw
pocket needs to be lengthened but this is on a 7x lathe the 8x14
already has enough extra room in this area.
http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/xslidemod.html
<http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/xslidemod.html
Hope this helps.
Mike...

| 215|215|2004-04-06 16:32:08|John Labutski|Great service and excellent products|

Normally I am the type of guy that just expects good service. I must
say that Robert Bertrand at Lathemaster provides superior service.
Over the years I have dealt with many suppliers and many of them were
very good. Lathemaster has to be the top of the list of all of them.
I have seen many postings on different groups with people complaining
about tech support from various companies. With Lathemaster its a
totally different story. Robert knows all the ins and outs of each of
his products. Every item I have purchased from his company has been
of excellent quality. Many of you in this group already know what I
am talking about. Its not surprising that many in this group are sold
on Lathemaster service and products. At my age (62) I have watched
most companies in general change to clerks for service rather than
technicians. This results in difficulty in getting a replacement part
or a specific accessory because the clerk doesn't know the difference
between a 1/4 20 screw and a follow rest. With Lathemaster you get
honest recommendations based on the type and size of work you plan to
do. I have seen postings where guys were concerned about shipping
costs. These few extra bucks should not stop you from getting a
quality product. Quality gears, bearings, pulleys, etc. make all the
difference in the world. Less vibration,quieter operation, just gives
superior results. Having played with the 7x10's and a 9x20 , I have
come to the conclusion that the 8x14 I got from Lathemaster is the
only one of the bunch worth far more than I paid for it.

| 216|215|2004-04-06 16:44:53|Green, James|Re: Great service and excellent products|

Another company with excellent service is www.littlemachineshop.com
<http://www.littlemachineshop.com
I would love to have a X3 milling machine from Bob but currently a little
tight on the funds. Wonder if I could find a used one / second hand in the
near future????

James Green

Normally I am the type of guy that just expects good service. I must
say that Robert Bertrand at Lathemaster provides superior service.
Over the years I have dealt with many suppliers and many of them were
very good. Lathemaster has to be the top of the list of all of them.
I have seen many postings on different groups with people complaining
about tech support from various companies. With Lathemaster its a
totally different story. Robert knows all the ins and outs of each of
his products. Every item I have purchased from his company has been
of excellent quality. Many of you in this group already know what I
am talking about. Its not surprising that many in this group are sold
on Lathemaster service and products. At my age (62) I have watched
most companies in general change to clerks for service rather than
technicians. This results in difficulty in getting a replacement part
or a specific accessory because the clerk doesn't know the difference
between a 1/4 20 screw and a follow rest. With Lathemaster you get
honest recommendations based on the type and size of work you plan to
do. I have seen postings where guys were concerned about shipping
costs. These few extra bucks should not stop you from getting a
quality product. Quality gears, bearings, pulleys, etc. make all the
difference in the world. Less vibration,quieter operation, just gives
superior results. Having played with the 7x10's and a 9x20 , I have
come to the conclusion that the 8x14 I got from Lathemaster is the
only one of the bunch worth far more than I paid for it.

| 217|211|2004-04-06 17:58:27|uptoolateman|Re: Re cross slide mod|

Actually there is over 1" of unused travel on the cross slide screw
behind the cross slide nut because the front edge of the cross slide
hits the hand wheel housing. If you space the housing out by a given
amount the length of screw sticking into the cross slide decreases
but you gain the same amount of travel in this unused area. I did
some experiments last night with a spacer of over 1" and still had
the same 4.5 of travel.
With the cross slide all the way back against the housing and the
compound at 90 deg to the cross slide there is 3 1/4" from the front
face of the compound to center with the current setup. If a 3/4"
spacer is used it would be easier to face somthing 8" in diameter.
This isn't as much of an issue with the 4 way tool post as you could
rotate the tool to the rear, but on a quick change I think it's more
of a pain.
The tailstock already has a ball thrust bearing on it, mine was
smooth out of the box. If yours is a little tight try backing off
the lock nut on the hand wheel side a little.
I also put a 10mm id x14mm od brass washer(Ace hardware) between
the hand wheel and bearing mount on the compound which made a big
difference. With the stock setup the entire face of the hand wheel
is against the bearing block causing a lot of friction.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
is a
located in the
chuck!!!!!
TIR on
real light
or less of
snugged up
1/2" OD
mallet until
compound
I've tried
sloppy.
will be
the
be

| 218|215|2004-04-07 00:36:04|kmcmachineworks|Re: Great service and excellent products|

SHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

keep it down about "worth far more than I paid for it" stuff.
Bob might here you out there and raise the price before I can get mine

:-)

KMc

| 219|215|2004-04-07 01:59:58|George & Cathy Dunham|BV20BL|

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156
Hi All

Anyone care to help Bob sell another BV20BL. I see from the picture
there are differences from the other 9x20's. Would those familiar with this
machine care to comment on the features and needed mods if any?

Thanks!

Regards

George

| 220|215|2004-04-07 13:31:36|John P. Labutski|Re: Great service and excellent products|

I agree James, Chris at Littlemachine shop is also great to deal with. Those of us in this hobby are fortunate to have two great suppliers who actually understand machine work.

| 221|221|2004-04-08 19:53:36|John Labutski|Great Work Bench Design|

We just finished construction of our new workbench. We copied the
design by Dan Hautz. The only change we made was that we used his
design and made it 6 feet long instead of 3 feet long. We added
another set of legs at the 3 foot center. Prior to this, I had
always used 2x4 construction. The 4x4 legs and the 2x6 cross members
just makes it rigid as the dickens. For just a few dollars more than
2x4 construction, this approach is probably the best We have ever
come across. Its economical, simple and quick to put together. In
addition, the shelf at the bottom is great for general storage.
Because the surface quality of the plywood here in Florida is the
pits, We also added a top layer of 3/4 inch mdf on the top of the
bench fastened with Liquid Nails and some deck screws. This way I
would have a nice smooth top without any patches. I have no doubt
that this will be stout enough for the Lathemaster 7045 mill. There
are a lot of great ideas on Dan's webb site. You can get to his site
which is shown below.

http://tedatum.com/thms/

| 222|221|2004-04-10 18:55:04|sow662000|Re: Great Work Bench Design|

John,
How can I get a copy of this plan, sounds like it is just
what I need. Can't seem to locate it on Dan's site.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" members
than
site

| 223|221|2004-04-10 21:27:48|John P. Labutski|Re: Great Work Bench Design|

I just went to Dan's webb site. It looks like he is doing some work on his webb pages so pictures are not available. I will check to see when its up again and I will send you an email. Dan works a real job so the webb site comes second to his family and his professional work.

| 224|221|2004-04-10 22:19:18|John P. Labutski|Re: Great Work Bench Design|

Dan's site is back up. Look up the page that shows the 8x14 and you will see a picture of the bench.

here is the link

http://tedatum.com/thms/index.html

John Ocala Forida

| 225|221|2004-04-10 22:22:30|John P. Labutski|Re: Great Work Bench Design|

I forgot to tell you look under Workshop at the main menu.

| 226|226|2004-04-11 21:17:19|cooltool49|Lathe Bench|

Hi all.
I have just about completed my new bench for the Grizz 4000 (which
hasn't been shipped yet). I haven't yet decided on the construction
of a drip pan for it, so am open to suggestions.
I typed up a description of materials & processes used in its
construction and took a few pics. I created a file using Word 2000
and uploaded it into the files section in the folder named "Alaskan
Lathe Bench". I am very good at keeping up with the antivirus stuff,
and believe the file to be clean.
I am fairly thickskinned (especially after the miter saw events of a
couple weeks ago), and can tolerate your comments and criticisms.

Jerry

| 227|227|2004-04-12 05:12:11|cooltool49|Profuse Apology|

In addition to being a newcomer to the metal working arena, I am also
a newcomer at this group thing. I made this same post on the 9x20
group and was chastised rather severely because several folks could
not see the pics. I had no idea that I was posting something in a
fashion that would be unusable to so many. Since just returning from
Easter dinner with friends, I discovered the problem. I hope I have
rectified it by posting the pics in the photo section in the Alaskan
Lathe Bench folder. I shall attempt to conform better in future postings.
Jerry

PS I hope the bench is generic enough that someone may be able to use
some of the ideas I had.

| 228|213|2004-04-12 22:05:17|mineralman55|Re: new Lathemaster offerings?|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" available
if this
That would be me. I hope to see Bob this week and pick up one of the
bandsaws, so I'll ask for some updates.

LarryO
New Orleans

| 229|229|2004-04-13 03:58:35|Brian Tuttle|contacting lathemaster|

Hello,

I have emailed sales@... on several occasions, and I have
never received a response. First tried several months ago for shipping and
availability of an 8x14 lathe. After several emails with no response, I
finally bought a cummins mini. Now I am wanting either an 8x14 or 9x20
lathe and an x3 milling machine. I emailed lathemaster a week ago, and
again haven't gotten a response. Everyone I have seen posts from always
comments on how good the service is at lathemaster from Bob, so I have come
to the conclusion that somehow my mails aren't getting through, because if
they were, I am sure he would be answering them. Does anybody have an
alternative method of contact for lathemaster? Or, does anybody know if I
can get an x3 and/or 8x14 or 9x20 of the same style sold by lathemaster
somewhere else?

Thank you

Brian

| 230|230|2004-04-13 04:01:28|clint_sims|tail stock center|

i am having trouble with the dead center moving around when turning,
is there an easy cure, live center? i take it smoke is not a good
thing. please advise.

thanks Clint

| 231|229|2004-04-13 04:09:07|John P. Labutski|Re: contacting lathemaster|

Go to the Lathemaster webb site and there is a phone number to call.

| 232|221|2004-04-13 14:00:35|Green, James|Re: Great Work Bench Design|

I just spent the weekend replacing the top surface of my work bench. Picked
up a sheet of 3/4" oak plywood. My work bench is 4' x 10' and holds all my
power tools and lathe. I will feel sorry for the movers when I decide to
relocate again.... :)

James Green

members
than
site

| 233|230|2004-04-13 14:09:42|Green, James|Re: tail stock center|

I always use a live center..... Add some oli to your dead center to cure
the smoke.....

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: clint_sims [mailto:clint_sims@...]
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 10:01 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] tail stock center

i am having trouble with the dead center moving around when turning,
is there an easy cure, live center? i take it smoke is not a good
thing. please advise.

thanks Clint

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 234|229|2004-04-13 16:41:00|Brian Tuttle|Re: contacting lathemaster|

John,

Thank you for the reply. I just spent some time on the lathemaster site. I checked every page you could get to from the menu on the left hand side. I didn't see a phone number anywhere. I could be blind though (sometimes I can't see the forest for all the trees in the way). Please post the number or the url to the exact page it can be found on.

Thank you very much,

Brian

| 235|235|2004-04-13 17:14:23|John P. Labutski|Your phone number request|

Hello Brian, the number you want is

225-377-7001.

| 236|235|2004-04-13 21:24:00|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Your phone number request|

I Have been calling also. The tax man giveth back..Bob Wright
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John P. Labutski" lathemaster site. I checked every page you could get to from the
menu on the left hand side. I didn't see a phone number anywhere. I
could be blind though (sometimes I can't see the forest for all the
trees in the way). Please post the number or the url to the exact
page it can be found on.
----------
Service.

| 237|237|2004-04-13 23:37:42|Brian Tuttle|thanks for the number|

thanks for the number sir.

| 238|238|2004-04-13 23:39:13|Bill Wilkins|5 new pics|

Hello All,

Just posted 5 new pics in my photo album.

The Spindle wrench I picked up at Harbor freight. Although not as
sophisicated as Brent N.'s or as substancial, it does work, One side
is marked ON the other OFF. I roughed up the inside with sandpaper so
it would grip the slippery spindle.

Several times I have wished I had a stop system on the X & Y axis.
Having to remember the handwheel settings was not reliable.
(oldtimers desease) I have finished the X axis as shown in the pics,
and have started on the Y axis. The center part on the Y axis will be
easier to make so this axis should not take long. One member reported
that he had tee slots on his X3 slide, mine did not.

The tailstock rachet wrench was also bought at HF as a set. I took
the 3/4" and cut the other end (13/16) off. Just a flip of the lever
reverses the rachet. When the nut is loose and doesn't want to rachet
I just tip the tailstock to put some friction on the nut and finish
tightning or loosing.

Just recieved a QCTP today from Lathemaster and am excited to get it
installed. Got the modified compound so I could keep the stock set up
in case there was a special setup that would require the original TP.

ALRIGHT Bob W. Glad your Tax Dollars are working For you.

Regards, BGBill

| 239|239|2004-04-14 05:23:47|mineralman55|New Bandsaw|

I picked up one of Lathemaster's G5010 bandsaws tonight. What a
nifty piece of equipment! It's tiny, with a footprint of about 13
inch by 16 inches. It looks to be a knock-off of an Italian bandsaw
(the specs label on the motor is in Italian: Voltaggio, Potenza,
etc.) The build quality is superb--- no rough edges, cast aluminum
base, steel vise, cast aluminum saw body, no plastic anywhere. Even
the paint job is first rate.

It comes with a standard-sized portable bandsaw blade which Bob
suggested I replace with a bi-metal, but I'll wait on that until I
dull this one. Also included is a double-ended box wrench, an allen
wrench and some spare motor brushes and a reasonably good manual.
There's no spring-loaded "automatic feed" as on the 4x6 bandsaws,
but I don't see that as much of a problem.

I made some test cuts, and it cut through both 1 inch 6061 aluminum
and CRS with ease. The finish was very good. Minimal noise as well.
I had been using a hacksaw or my HF 4 inch grinder with a metal
cutoff wheel, both of which work but are not the optimal methods. I
like this better :-)

If you're in the market for a bandsaw, don't overlook one of these.

Larry
New Orleans

| 240|238|2004-04-14 14:31:24|Green, James|Re: 5 new pics|

Bill

Make sure the mounting stud for your QCTP has been drilled and tapped
vertically. Bob is sending me another modified compound slide since the
factory was off by .040 when they tried the drilling and tapping phase.

James Green

Hello All,

Just posted 5 new pics in my photo album.

The Spindle wrench I picked up at Harbor freight. Although not as
sophisicated as Brent N.'s or as substancial, it does work, One side
is marked ON the other OFF. I roughed up the inside with sandpaper so
it would grip the slippery spindle.

Several times I have wished I had a stop system on the X & Y axis.
Having to remember the handwheel settings was not reliable.
(oldtimers desease) I have finished the X axis as shown in the pics,
and have started on the Y axis. The center part on the Y axis will be
easier to make so this axis should not take long. One member reported
that he had tee slots on his X3 slide, mine did not.

The tailstock rachet wrench was also bought at HF as a set. I took
the 3/4" and cut the other end (13/16) off. Just a flip of the lever
reverses the rachet. When the nut is loose and doesn't want to rachet
I just tip the tailstock to put some friction on the nut and finish
tightning or loosing.

Just recieved a QCTP today from Lathemaster and am excited to get it
installed. Got the modified compound so I could keep the stock set up
in case there was a special setup that would require the original TP.

ALRIGHT Bob W. Glad your Tax Dollars are working For you.

Regards, BGBill

_____

| 241|241|2004-04-14 18:25:22|George & Cathy Dunham|Index Tooling???|

Attachments :

Hi All

Well I made the plunge, ordered an Enco 9x20 as well as other
goodies. I generally use HSS tooling and will continue with this choice in
most cases for finish. I am considering setting up a carbide insert system
and am confused re. choices of insert.

My research (not scientific) lead me to TNMG 23X (1,2,3). In
looking for a toolholder I came upon a DIY version which specified TNMP and
claimed the rake on the G type was actually Neg. while the rake on the P
version was +10 Deg. Now I'm confused. I have almost no experience in this
insert business so I am open to all suggestions and supporting info. Any
toolholder plans or info also wanted if available.

I mainly do Clock stuff and the reason for the 9x20 is to develop
tooling/fixtures to use on the smaller lathes and mills I currently use.

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

| 242|241|2004-04-14 19:23:10|Green, James|Re: Index Tooling???|

Hit www.littlemachineshop.com <http://www.littlemachineshop.com Chris Wood "owner" an email. I also noticed the vast quantities of carbide
inserts and indexable tools when I was searching for index tooling. I
watched another fellow in the 7x10 group go round and round trying to fine
the correct insert(s) for his style of index tool. I basically skipped all
the problems and ordered the inserts and tools at the same time.......

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: George & Cathy Dunham [mailto:dunham_g@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 12:25 PM
To: '9x20 Lathe'; '9x20 LatheModel'; 'Lathe 9x20'; 'LatheMaster'
Subject: [lathemaster] Index Tooling???

Hi All

Well I made the plunge, ordered an Enco 9x20 as well as other
goodies. I generally use HSS tooling and will continue with this choice in
most cases for finish. I am considering setting up a carbide insert system
and am confused re. choices of insert.

My research (not scientific) lead me to TNMG 23X (1,2,3). In
looking for a toolholder I came upon a DIY version which specified TNMP and
claimed the rake on the G type was actually Neg. while the rake on the P
version was +10 Deg. Now I'm confused. I have almost no experience in this
insert business so I am open to all suggestions and supporting info. Any
toolholder plans or info also wanted if available.

I mainly do Clock stuff and the reason for the 9x20 is to develop
tooling/fixtures to use on the smaller lathes and mills I currently use.

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

| 243|235|2004-04-15 21:50:59|John P. Labutski|Re: Your phone number request|

I understand that there was a big trade show in Beijing the last few weeks. Don't know if Bob went, but a lot of people attended this machinery show from what I understand from some of the trade rags.

| 244|244|2004-04-16 08:01:21|George & Cathy Dunham|Linear Tumbler Reverse|

Attachments :

Hi all

I seem to remember stumbling across a version of the reverse mod
that involved linear actuation vs a rotating one. I now can't seem to find
again. Does any one have this bookmarked?

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

| 245|245|2004-04-16 13:48:44|Green, James|8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

Has anyone mounted a Bison 3 or 4 jaw chuck to the 8 x 14 lathe???? I am
looking to obtain one of the "set true" models and not sure what type of
backing plate that I would need.

Thanks

James Green

| 246|244|2004-04-16 16:55:05|George & Cathy Dunham|Re: [9x20Lathe] Linear Tumbler Reverse|

Attachments :

Hi All

Well after hours of more searching I found it, some what buried.

Linear <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/files/New%20Designs/ Reverse Tumbler

If anyone has tried this method, all additional info would be
appreciated.

Regards

George Dunham

719 Thompson Blvd

Union, SC 29379-7406

(864) 429-4156

-----Original Message-----
From: George & Cathy Dunham [mailto:dunham_g@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 2:01 AM
To: '9x20 Lathe'; '9x20 LatheModel'; 'Lathe 9x20'; 'LatheMaster'
Subject: [9x20Lathe] Linear Tumbler Reverse

Hi all

I seem to remember stumbling across a version of the reverse mod

that involved linear actuation vs a rotating one. I now can't seem to find

again. Does any one have this bookmarked?

Regards

George Dunham

719 Thompson Blvd

Union, SC 29379-7406

(864) 429-4156

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Yahoo! Groups Links

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/9x20Lathe/

9x20Lathe-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

| 247|247|2004-04-16 21:38:44|Kenneth Cardolino|X3 CNC|

Hello Everyone!

Just placed a couple pics of my X3 mill in the photo's section (KDN
Tool). The CNC'ing is near completion. Ball screw X & Y so far (Z is
next). Reliance servos all around. Gecko G320's. 20 amp 65V power
supply. Hope to finish up the coolant shield and flood coolant this
weekend. Some tidying up to do on the electrical. Have to reposition
the spindle motor up top as it interferes with the coolant shield.
Been a fun project, can't wait to throw some serious chips with this
baby! I will update the pics as I complete each section.

Regards,
Ken

| 248|247|2004-04-16 21:52:55|Berg, Bob|Re: X3 CNC|

Awesome!,
I have an X3 and I'm triing to gather info to convert it to CNC. Do you
mind sharing some info on you ball screw conversion?
Thanks!
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: Kenneth Cardolino [mailto:kdntool@...]
Sent: Friday, April 16, 2004 1:36 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] X3 CNC

Hello Everyone!

Just placed a couple pics of my X3 mill in the photo's section (KDN
Tool). The CNC'ing is near completion. Ball screw X & Y so far (Z is
next). Reliance servos all around. Gecko G320's. 20 amp 65V power
supply. Hope to finish up the coolant shield and flood coolant this
weekend. Some tidying up to do on the electrical. Have to reposition
the spindle motor up top as it interferes with the coolant shield.
Been a fun project, can't wait to throw some serious chips with this
baby! I will update the pics as I complete each section.

Regards,
Ken

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 249|249|2004-04-17 04:21:30|Bill Wilkins|Ball Screws|

Ken,

What is your source for the ball screws? I would like to do that mod,
but not the CNC. I'll have to rely on HBC. (human brain control) And
I could be in trouble there.

Regards, BGBill

| 250|247|2004-04-17 12:41:45|Kenneth Cardolino|Re: X3 CNC|

I used Thomson Saginaw ball screws and nuts that are available from
Mcmaster Carr. They are 5/8 major DIA with a .200 lead. (5 TPI) They
are not super precision gound screws, but I have used them before
and I have seen them used on quite accurate machines. I purchased a
3/4" screw and nut for the Z, but have not had the time to convert
it yet.
The Y axis just does not have enough room for a double nut so I
went with a single and re-loaded it with larger DIA balls to
minimize backlash. Luckily I was able to aquire .126 DIA balls from
my "day job" for re-loading which yeilded .001" backlash.(they ship
with .124" DIA) I let the CNC software make up for the .001".
I made a brass split bushing to hold in a 5C collet and bored the
ID to the exact OD (@.613) of the screws. This allowed me to put the
screws in a spin fixture on the surface grinder to grind the bearing
diameters in. I then chucked them in a 5C collet (on the DIA I
ground)in the lathe to turn down the very end for threading. These
screws are case hardened where the threads grooves are but once you
get them down past the "case" they are easy to turn. Watch out for
the flame cut ends, they tend to be quite hard as well.
If there are any more direct details, please ask away.
Ken

| 251|245|2004-04-17 17:09:34|John P. Labutski|Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

Enco carries the ready to machine backing plate for these chucks. You might check the Bison webb site for detailed dimensions on this item. They are about 45.00 They come only for 6" and up in size.

| 252|252|2004-04-19 04:56:57|John Labutski|Lathemaster and Email|

I just found out that webb provider for Lathemaster has been
upgrading their security services. I just went thru this a few weeks
ago with my provider and it shut me down for nearly a week. I
upgraded my virus and interntet protection and use Symantec (Nortons)
internet security for every thing. It seems there are virus
attachments floating around and this causes your email to get bounced
from protected systems. Since I now get flagged on virus contaminated
email, I noticed most of it comes from California and Overseas
postings on some of the reflectors. So if you haven't been able to
get replies from Lathemaster try again and it will probably work as
long as you don't have an attached virus.

I just bit the bullet and ordered a new mill from Lathemaster. I am
pleased as punch with the 8x14 I got a few weeks ago. I don't know if
some of you noticed, but the lead screw on the 8x14 is 3/4 inch. That
puts it in the category of many of the 12x36 lathes being sold. This
lead screw gives a superior finish to that of my recent HF 9x20. It
could be very well the smoother carriage travel as well as the more
robust lead screw contributes to this. I absolutely love turning
hard brass with this lathe. I am getting finishes that nearly make
final polishing a waste of time.

| 253|252|2004-04-19 11:03:35|Brian Tuttle|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

Thanks John, I had given up on them, but I will try again now.

Brian

| 254|252|2004-04-19 13:59:58|John P. Labutski|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

Thanks for your thanks Brian.

I have other comments you might be interested in but they would be considered off topic for this reflector. Drop me an email if you are interested.

My email address is

kd6wd@...

John

| 255|252|2004-04-19 14:00:05|Green, James|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

What mill did you order?????

James

-----Original Message-----
From: John Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:56 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Lathemaster and Email

I just found out that webb provider for Lathemaster has been
upgrading their security services. I just went thru this a few weeks
ago with my provider and it shut me down for nearly a week. I
upgraded my virus and interntet protection and use Symantec (Nortons)
internet security for every thing. It seems there are virus
attachments floating around and this causes your email to get bounced
from protected systems. Since I now get flagged on virus contaminated
email, I noticed most of it comes from California and Overseas
postings on some of the reflectors. So if you haven't been able to
get replies from Lathemaster try again and it will probably work as
long as you don't have an attached virus.

I just bit the bullet and ordered a new mill from Lathemaster. I am
pleased as punch with the 8x14 I got a few weeks ago. I don't know if
some of you noticed, but the lead screw on the 8x14 is 3/4 inch. That
puts it in the category of many of the 12x36 lathes being sold. This
lead screw gives a superior finish to that of my recent HF 9x20. It
could be very well the smoother carriage travel as well as the more
robust lead screw contributes to this. I absolutely love turning
hard brass with this lathe. I am getting finishes that nearly make
final polishing a waste of time.

_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
lathemaster-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
lathemaster-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 256|252|2004-04-19 17:42:57|John P. Labutski|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

I ordered the zay7045 mill. I have a friend who is going to retire and close his machine shop at the end of the year. He has promised me a big pile of cutters for horizontal milling. I really don't need the horizontal swing capability for most of my stuff and was going to get the x3, but since the price of the cutters is right (free)and he is throwing in r-8 holders (I only pay shipping on the cutters). I figured I would take the plunge for the bigger machine. There are only two shortcomings for me. That will be that I give up the z axis feed down below which is the neat thing about the x3 and the difference in price.

I am going to sell my mini-mill when I get the Lathemaster 7045 mill. The HF mini-mill has been cool for aluminum, brass and plastics and reasonable cuts in steel. In fact I've drilled 3/4 inch holes with it in mild steel while modifying the HF freight mini-lathe tool posts. Its made some cutter holders and drilled big holes in some backing plates for the 7x10 that I have. It's just that I get a bit impatient having to take smaller cuts in mild steel. Since I work with mostly 3/8ths and half inch end mills in steel the x-3 would have been plenty stout enough for heavy cuts. Dan says the x-3 handles half inch cutters with no sweat. The x3 is just a much more rigid machine than the mini-mill.

From looking at the specs and talking to Bob, I am sure I would be happy with either mill. They both have that extra oomff to do work in mild steel and macho quills and spindles.

I guess I ve run off at the mouth here, but thats the story.

From: Green, James

| 257|252|2004-04-19 19:34:19|Green, James|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

Hopefully you will get a few bucks for your mini mill........ Is your new
mill being delivered to your house or the trucking depot???? A good first
project would be that carriage stop for the 8 x 14 that Dan shows on his web
site... I've been wanting the guys in the Tool and Die room to make me one
but the back log of work is too high......

I am still waiting to receive the new compound slide from Bob and I am
really hoping to see it this week!!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: John P. Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 2:44 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Lathemaster and Email

I ordered the zay7045 mill. I have a friend who is going to retire and
close his machine shop at the end of the year. He has promised me a big pile
of cutters for horizontal milling. I really don't need the horizontal swing
capability for most of my stuff and was going to get the x3, but since the
price of the cutters is right (free)and he is throwing in r-8 holders (I
only pay shipping on the cutters). I figured I would take the plunge for the
bigger machine. There are only two shortcomings for me. That will be that I
give up the z axis feed down below which is the neat thing about the x3 and
the difference in price.

I am going to sell my mini-mill when I get the Lathemaster 7045 mill. The HF
mini-mill has been cool for aluminum, brass and plastics and reasonable cuts
in steel. In fact I've drilled 3/4 inch holes with it in mild steel while
modifying the HF freight mini-lathe tool posts. Its made some cutter
holders and drilled big holes in some backing plates for the 7x10 that I
have. It's just that I get a bit impatient having to take smaller cuts in
mild steel. Since I work with mostly 3/8ths and half inch end mills in steel
the x-3 would have been plenty stout enough for heavy cuts. Dan says the
x-3 handles half inch cutters with no sweat. The x3 is just a much more
rigid machine than the mini-mill.

From looking at the specs and talking to Bob, I am sure I would be happy
with either mill. They both have that extra oomff to do work in mild steel
and macho quills and spindles.

I guess I ve run off at the mouth here, but thats the story.

From: Green, James james.green@...
To: 'lathemaster@yahoogroups.com' lathemaster@yahoogroups.com' Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 4:57 AM
Subject: RE: [lathemaster] Lathemaster and Email

What mill did you order?????

James

-----Original Message-----
From: John Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 10:56 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Lathemaster and Email

I just found out that webb provider for Lathemaster has been
upgrading their security services. I just went thru this a few weeks
ago with my provider and it shut me down for nearly a week. I
upgraded my virus and interntet protection and use Symantec (Nortons)
internet security for every thing. It seems there are virus
attachments floating around and this causes your email to get bounced
from protected systems. Since I now get flagged on virus contaminated
email, I noticed most of it comes from California and Overseas
postings on some of the reflectors. So if you haven't been able to
get replies from Lathemaster try again and it will probably work as
long as you don't have an attached virus.

I just bit the bullet and ordered a new mill from Lathemaster. I am
pleased as punch with the 8x14 I got a few weeks ago. I don't know if
some of you noticed, but the lead screw on the 8x14 is 3/4 inch. That
puts it in the category of many of the 12x36 lathes being sold. This
lead screw gives a superior finish to that of my recent HF 9x20. It
could be very well the smoother carriage travel as well as the more
robust lead screw contributes to this. I absolutely love turning
hard brass with this lathe. I am getting finishes that nearly make
final polishing a waste of time.

_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/ < http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
lathemaster-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
lathemaster-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe

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< http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

_____

Yahoo! Groups Links

* To visit your group on the web, go to:
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<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/

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lathemaster-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe

* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 258|252|2004-04-19 21:13:52|mineralman55|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

x-3 would have been plenty stout enough for heavy cuts. Dan says the
x-3 handles half inch cutters with no sweat. The x3 is just a much
more rigid machine than the mini-mill.
I use 1/2 inch and 1 inch endmills in my X3 all the time. Neither
makes the X3 breath hard, even in stainless. I like my X3.

Larry
New Orleans

| 259|252|2004-04-19 21:53:05|Berg, Bob|Re: Lathemaster and Email|

FWIW,
I have been using a 3/4" 4 flute rougher for alum. On my X-3 And it eats
it like nothing!
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 1:13 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Lathemaster and Email

x-3 would have been plenty stout enough for heavy cuts. Dan says the
x-3 handles half inch cutters with no sweat. The x3 is just a much
more rigid machine than the mini-mill.
I use 1/2 inch and 1 inch endmills in my X3 all the time. Neither
makes the X3 breath hard, even in stainless. I like my X3.

Larry
New Orleans

Yahoo! Groups Links

| 260|260|2004-04-22 22:44:08|John Labutski|Moving Heavy Stuff|

I just finished arranging for delivery of my 7045 Lathemaster. When
I lived in California I always had a crane and rigging company do
equipment moves. When I sold my Bridgeport in California a crane and
rigging firm moved it 60 miles for $250.00. Here in Ocala, the
nearest crane and rigging company is in Orlando. They wanted 4 hours
drive time at $200.00 per hour travel time + $200.00 or a one hour
minimum at my house. This amounted to nearly $1000.00 bucks. So
while cussing I thought I would call a furniture moving company.
Guess what? They will pick it up from the truck line (AAA Cooper)
for me and put it in my garage for $150.00. So you guys buying the
bigger stuff, don't forget about furniture movers.

| 261|260|2004-04-22 23:01:52|John Labutski|Re: Moving Heavy Stuff|

In response to to a couple of emails here is my situation. My garage
is up about 12 feet above the street level. I wanted someone to get
it up the steep driveway. If I did it myself using my HF 2 ton crane
and the 800 pounds got away from me it would shoot down the hill,
across the street and into the neigbors living room and probably
dispose of their grandmother. Not a pretty thought. Moving companies
are really cheap, lawsuits are not.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" When
and
hours

| 262|262|2004-04-25 03:21:13|metalmill52|New Photos Uploaded|

Hi Everyone!

I just finished degreeing the perimeter of my 3.75" rotary table
project and have uploaded a couple of photos in the photo section.
Look under Bill C's, and open the folder that says Degreeing. It's
just 2 pics, but I am very pleased with the result and thought it a
good illustration of what the Lathemaster 4" precision Rotary Table
is capable of doing.

Our co-moderator, Alan T was good enough to loan me his Lathemaster
RT so I could finish up my project. Thanks again Alan, it is really
a nice piece of equipment and very generous of you to loan it to me!

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

| 263|262|2004-04-26 01:38:35|Alan Trest|Re: New Photos Uploaded|

That's a fine job Bill. I can't wait to see it in person. Keep up
the good work.

Bye the way, if you see me tomorrow, call me at work, I have
something for you to help with the modification on your mill.

Alan

really

| 264|264|2004-04-28 01:55:27|pakrat_57|(no subject)|

Just had to mention that I got my Lathemaster 9x20 today. Everything
checks out ok on initial inspection. I'll post again in a week or two
after I get a bench built and have a chance to clean it and get some
run in time on it.

Jim

| 265|265|2004-05-01 14:38:34|marvinstovall|X3|

Hi All,
New X3 with tools, accessories and stand arrived from
Lathemaster, two photos in the Marv folder (more later). Looks
great, no freight damage, very nice quality machine. Only took three
days from order to delivery. Doing business with Bob is really
pleasurable, great service. Can't wait to get my 8x14 lathe when he
gets them in.

Marv

| 266|245|2004-05-01 23:25:41|Phil Teague|Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

James:

Have you considered using the 4 jaw 5" chuck that came with the 8 x
14? The 4 jaw is nothing more than a "set true" with a different name.
It is just as accurate and it doesn't cost anything ( assuming you got
one with your lathe). Have you tried using it?

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" I am

| 267|265|2004-05-02 18:35:24|mineralman55|Re: X3|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" three
he
That's a sharp looking mill stand. I've not seen that before.

Larry

| 268|265|2004-05-03 05:45:39|marvinstovall|Re: X3|

Larry,
Yes it is, thanks. I ordered the other one but Bob said he had
that one and sent me a picture. I like it better, has drawers which I
am short of in my shop/garage. It's really well built and wasn't too
much trouble to put together either. Drawer slides are top quality
ball bearing.

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55"

| 269|265|2004-05-03 15:28:11|marvinstovall|Re: X3 (Way Covers)|

Uploaded two photos of the way covers I made from scrap splash cover
material off a car for those interested.

Question: What is the wedge for that was included in the tools that
came with the mill? (Picture in Bret's folder)

Thanks,
Marv

| 270|265|2004-05-03 17:23:26|John Labutski|Re: X3 (Way Covers)|

I don't have an x3 but I think that the wedge is used for knocking
out tapers on x3 mills that use a morse taper. X3 has an r8 taper
which uses the drawbar to kick the collet out. I use to have a big
import drill press that used a similar wedge to kick out the taper.

Any body in Northern California need a super big drill press? Its
still at my daughters in California ($200) and you pick it up. Its
about 400 lbs.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" cover
that

| 271|265|2004-05-04 07:21:05|marvinstovall|Re: X3 (Way Covers)|

Ok, thanks John.
Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski"

| 272|245|2004-05-04 14:08:26|Green, James|Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

Guess I am a little to lazy on spending the extra 10 minutes to use a
indicator with my four jaw chuck........

James

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Teague [mailto:philteague@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2004 5:24 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks

James:

Have you considered using the 4 jaw 5" chuck that came with the 8 x
14? The 4 jaw is nothing more than a "set true" with a different name.
It is just as accurate and it doesn't cost anything ( assuming you got
one with your lathe). Have you tried using it?

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" I am
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor

ADVERTISEMENT
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<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=285832.4851039.5997748.1269404/D=groups/S=
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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 273|245|2004-05-04 15:06:45|John P. Labutski|Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

Just another opinion:

Spend your extra bucks on a 5c collet chuck. The 4 jaw will work when you have a larger item to be turned, but the 5c collet chuck is super neat for smaller stuff. Also, remember you can get step, square, and hex collets.

| 274|245|2004-05-04 15:12:58|Green, James|Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks|

Can you get 5C collets larger than an 1.125????

James

-----Original Message-----
From: John P. Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 12:13 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Re: 8 x 14 and Bison chucks

Just another opinion:

Spend your extra bucks on a 5c collet chuck. The 4 jaw will work when you
have a larger item to be turned, but the 5c collet chuck is super neat for
smaller stuff. Also, remember you can get step, square, and hex collets.

| 275|275|2004-05-04 16:01:28|John P. Labutski|Step collets versus 3 jaw chucks|

You can get step collets up to 6" in diameter. I included the link below.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=287&PARTPG=INLMK3

Whats nifty about the clutch and step collets is that you can recut them for specific tasks. For example if you want to make a ring out of 1/8 inch thick material that is has a 4" inch o.d and a 3.5 inch I.D. you can do it. You can make piston rings, etc. using these. You can recut them many times for different tasks. I had one years back that I had recut at least 40 different times and when I sold the lathe, it probably had at least 10 more uses. You can hold better tolerances on rings, collars, hubs, etc. while keeping them concentric and not oval or triangle shaped from jaw pressure like on a 3 jaw. Their not for everyone, but I used the only one I ever owned a bunch of times. I found them economical as well about 35, or 40 cents per unique job done.

| 276|275|2004-05-04 17:24:25|Green, James|Re: Step collets versus 3 jaw chucks|

How can you reuse these collets so many times???? I noticed the face of
these collets are over an inch thick. I presume you would bore a hole all
the way through the collet if you wanted i.e. to spin a 1.5" diameter of
material. Or is this collet designed so you can cut very short shoulders in
the collet???

James

-----Original Message-----
From: John P. Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2004 1:08 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Step collets versus 3 jaw chucks

You can get step collets up to 6" in diameter. I included the link below.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=287
<http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=287&PARTPG=INLMK3
Whats nifty about the clutch and step collets is that you can recut them for
specific tasks. For example if you want to make a ring out of 1/8 inch
thick material that is has a 4" inch o.d and a 3.5 inch I.D. you can do it.
You can make piston rings, etc. using these. You can recut them many times
for different tasks. I had one years back that I had recut at least 40
different times and when I sold the lathe, it probably had at least 10 more
uses. You can hold better tolerances on rings, collars, hubs, etc. while
keeping them concentric and not oval or triangle shaped from jaw pressure
like on a 3 jaw. Their not for everyone, but I used the only one I ever
owned a bunch of times. I found them economical as well about 35, or 40
cents per unique job done.

| 277|275|2004-05-04 21:09:32|John P. Labutski|Re: Step collets versus 3 jaw chucks|

No, you only need to remove the amount of material necessary to grip the part O.D. and provide sufficient pressure to grip the part. They usually come with 3 dowel pins to keep the collet segments spread apart while initial turning is being done. Its sort of the equivalent of soft jaws on a regular 3 jaw chuck.

| 278|278|2004-05-05 15:11:27|Green, James|X3 stand from Lathemaster|

Yesterday somebody posted about getting their X3 and a nice 5 drawer stand
from Bob. Could you give me the measurments of the table top?????

Thanks

James Green

| 279|278|2004-05-06 04:44:36|marvinstovall|Re: X3 stand from Lathemaster|

Hi James,
That was me, the top is 33" x 20 3/16", just shy of 1" thick.

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" drawer stand

| 280|280|2004-05-07 04:36:07|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|new lathe|

Well guys I hate to say this but I just bought a 10" Southbend lathe.
I have been using my buddy's and liked how it ran. I had to bid on 4
to buy 1. Now I have to haul it in my Geo Metro about 500 miles. Bob

| 281|247|2004-05-08 00:47:31|marvinstovall|Re: X3 CNC|

Hi Ken,
Nice pics of your mill. Just got mine last week. What kind of
coolant pump are you using?

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Kenneth Cardolino"
reposition
this

| 282|208|2004-05-12 15:58:55|John P. Labutski|Re: My 8x14 lathe arrived|

The button oilers are just press fit, a light tap with an oversized brass punch can force them level. No need to machine anything.

| 283|283|2004-05-12 21:38:02|Green, James|X3 Vise|

What is everybody using for a vise on the X3???? Is there room for a 6"
vise or should I be think smaller????

Thanks

James Green

| 284|208|2004-05-12 22:38:56|uptoolateman|Oilers on cross slide|

Good point john, When I first looked at the the oilers and tried
pushing them down I thought maybe they had a flange at the top
because they wouldn't move so I notched the compound a little. I
just now went out and gave them each a good stiff tap and they went
down. I guess I'll fill the notch with some metal filled epoxy.

I remember somebody saying that they had a problem with the
mounting stud being at an angle for the qc tool post. I thought I
had a similar problem when I modified my compound, but after some
invesigation I found that the stud threaded in perfectly straight
until tightened it into the compound. I countersunk the top of the
threaded hole and then tried agin and it was perfectly straight.
Must be the pitch of the thread hitting in one location on the
compound that causes it to tilt.

I finished my cam lock mod for the tailstock a couple of weeks ago,
the design is similar to what the 7x have been doing. it's amazing
how much force the cam exerts on the locking plate. I'm also in the
middle of installing a variable speed DC motor, hope to get that
done this weekend. Now if I only all of my scales would be delivered
so I can finish putting on DRO.

Mike...

Mike.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John P. Labutski" oversized brass punch can force them level. No need to machine
anything.
fork lift on three sides. I think the shipping companies need to
drug test their fork lift drivers. Fortunately they missed hitting
the lathe. The only thing I had to do to mine was back off the
bearing preload on the spindle a very slight amount. Personally I
would not remove the spindle. Mine came in dead on for the bore and
flange. If you do remove the spindle, I really doubt what ever
additional grease you put in will enhance the life of the bearings
significantly. I purchased a variable speed drill press from HF
which is now out of stock. It goes from 390 to over 3000 rpm using a
three sheave torque converter. I plan to use these sheaves for a
variable speed setup for the lathe. Once I get the proper setup I
will be able to go from 10 or 20 rpm for threading up to 1800 rpm
without swapping belts. I just got the drill press so it will take
me a week or two of cogitatin' to get it figured out. I will remove
the LCD speed indicator from this drill press for an rpm indicator.
It looks like it will be a fun project.
it
lube on
fit/finish and
OR, I
Portland was
sticking
Not near
loaded it
slightly built
to
ramp hand
the lathe
being
life on
of
hitting the
corners of
to
any
speed DC
mod
center.
---------
of Service.

| 285|283|2004-05-13 01:09:28|uptoolateman|Re: X3 Vise|

James,
I'm using a 3" screwless vise on my X3 and it seems to be a good
fit. I've been thinking about maybe a 4" precision milling vise but
at 35lbs that's about as big as I want to go.

mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"

| 286|283|2004-05-13 01:24:56|John P. Labutski|Re: X3 Vise|

A four inch vice anglelock type vise is what I think you need. The six inch is a bit to big for the x3 and even to big for the bigger bench mills. I have the 4" from enco. For bigger pieces use parallels on the table with the clamping kit. You can handle a big chunk of material this way. I also use pieces of scrap aluminum fly cut to the same height to use as parallels to space the work piece up off the table. Then use a quill stop to prevent table damage if you are drilling holes or cutting all the way thru the material piece. Also don't forget about the 4" quick vise. $39.95 at Littlemachineshop. Mine is a bit sloppy on the movable jaw and gets loaded up with chips you have to blow out but its just quick and handy to have in general for use on the mill and on your drill press. If you get this first it will give you an idea of how much bigger you should go.

| 287|208|2004-05-13 04:27:56|John P. Labutski|Re: Oilers on cross slide|

I wouldn't bother to fill the notch. That metal filled epoxy is more hassle than its worth.

Your comment on the bolt is interesting. My phase II post bolt had a tilt problem as well. I used Dan Kautz's method to do the threading and I still had a problem with the bolt that came with the tool post. I stuck a US bolt of the same thread and it was perfectly vertical. My solution was a little different. I figured out where the bolt was tight and where it needed a slight bend. I removed the bolt. I then split a nut for support and put it in my hydraulic press and tweeked it. Your method is much better and a more professional approach but mine worked for me.

I am also looking at a dc motor setup. The 8x14 is more than rigid enough to take big cuts, but super heavy cuts can stall the 3/4 horse motor. I would like to install a 1 or 1 1/2 horse motor with a variable sheave setup. The variable speed drill press I got to do this is just too nice to butcher for this. I like the way Hardinge uses variable sheaves for their speed control. This however would require using a lathe bench similar to that for a 12x36 so that would add $200.00 to the project plus the $150.00 for a decent motor and the work of making the sheaves.

What motor and control are you going to use? Also shoot some pictures of your tailstock with its mods and put them in the lathemaster groups photos.

| 288|208|2004-05-13 05:21:27|uptoolateman|Re: Oilers on cross slide|

I'm installing one of the surplus 1 1/2 - 2hp treadmill motors from
surplus center. I just got a new in the box kbpc 240d controller
rated to 1hp off ebay that seems to work good . The treadmill motors
are overated and are probably 3/4 to 1hp at best, the motor is rated
at 11.2 amp and the controller is rated to 10 amp but after doing
some reading on the kb site I found that the current limit is
actually set to 15amp on the controller. My first controller was
a "new" cycletrol unit from ebay that was no good, blown IC and a
blown trace. Steve Bedair has a site about his 9x20 lathe with info
about installing a treadmill motor. Steve was really a lot of help
trying to get the cycletrol running but in the end it was beyond my
electrictronic skills.
The motor I got has a 5/8' shaft with a 3/16 keyway which is really
closs to the 16mm (.630) shaft with 5mm (.197) keyway on the lathe
motor. I drilled some setscrew holes in the step pulley and took a
piece of 5mm keystock and stepped 1/2 of the height down to 3/16 so
it had a tight fit in the pulley and on the new motor shaft. The
other thing I had to do was drill 2 setcrew holes in the timing belt
pulley I also attached the flanges to the timing belt pulley with
some small screws. The original motor has a threaded hole in the end
of the motor shaft and a screw presses the pulleys against a
shoulder at the rear of the motor shaft so there are were no
setscrews.
When I modified my compound for the qc toolpost I wanted to have
more material for the tool post stud to thread into so I pressed a
steel plug into the .200 x.800 recess left behind from the original
stud before drilling and tapping the new stud hole. I knurled the
plug and put some metal filled epoxy on it before pressing it in. I
also put a plug into the detent hole and epoxied in the detent
retaining screw before machining the compound down 1/8".

Mike...
In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John P. Labutski" more hassle than its worth.
had a tilt problem as well. I used Dan Kautz's method to do the
threading and I still had a problem with the bolt that came with the
tool post. I stuck a US bolt of the same thread and it was perfectly
vertical. My solution was a little different. I figured out where
the bolt was tight and where it needed a slight bend. I removed the
bolt. I then split a nut for support and put it in my hydraulic
press and tweeked it. Your method is much better and a more
professional approach but mine worked for me.
rigid enough to take big cuts, but super heavy cuts can stall the
3/4 horse motor. I would like to install a 1 or 1 1/2 horse motor
with a variable sheave setup. The variable speed drill press I got
to do this is just too nice to butcher for this. I like the way
Hardinge uses variable sheaves for their speed control. This
however would require using a lathe bench similar to that for a
12x36 so that would add $200.00 to the project plus the $150.00 for
a decent motor and the work of making the sheaves.
pictures of your tailstock with its mods and put them in the
lathemaster groups photos.
went
I
some
straight
the
ago,
amazing
the
delivered
hitting
I
and
bearings
using a
I
rpm
take
remove
indicator.
lighten
and
Portland
paint.
room
Once
avoid
dear
8'
spindle
had
spacer
----
Terms
-----------
of Service.

| 289|289|2004-05-13 13:53:48|Green, James|Compound slide and DRO|

I was the person who had the problem with the mounting stud drilled and
tapped at an angle. Basically it was about .025 from vertical and also the
recessed area of the compound was milled on a .010 slope. I received a
second compound slide and it wasn't much better as the milling was
concerned. The excellent guys in the tool and die room at work helped me on
that one......

Received my 16" scale and single axis DRO display for the carriage movement.
Will have to mill new mounting brackets for the scale so I can get the scale
to slide between the bed and apron. I might even mount the scale upside
down to keep swarf and other trash out of the scale. You have to remove a
small plastic cover from the scale so you can plug it into the DRO display.
Has anybody else mounted a scale onto their 8 x 14 lathe????

James

Good point john, When I first looked at the the oilers and tried
pushing them down I thought maybe they had a flange at the top
because they wouldn't move so I notched the compound a little. I
just now went out and gave them each a good stiff tap and they went
down. I guess I'll fill the notch with some metal filled epoxy.

I remember somebody saying that they had a problem with the
mounting stud being at an angle for the qc tool post. I thought I
had a similar problem when I modified my compound, but after some
invesigation I found that the stud threaded in perfectly straight
until tightened it into the compound. I countersunk the top of the
threaded hole and then tried agin and it was perfectly straight.
Must be the pitch of the thread hitting in one location on the
compound that causes it to tilt.

I finished my cam lock mod for the tailstock a couple of weeks ago,
the design is similar to what the 7x have been doing. it's amazing
how much force the cam exerts on the locking plate. I'm also in the
middle of installing a variable speed DC motor, hope to get that
done this weekend. Now if I only all of my scales would be delivered
so I can finish putting on DRO.

Mike...

Mike.

| 290|283|2004-05-14 06:32:04|mineralman55|Re: X3 Vise|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
Mostly I use a 3 inch screwless purchased from LMS. Once or twice
I've used the 52 piece clamping kit. The 3 inch is great after you
make the clamping blocks for it. LMS has plans for the blocks
online. I made mine from some stainless I had lying around, and
machined the bottoms of the clamp blocks so that they fit snugly
into the T-slot on the table. These grip like a gorilla, and don't
leave dents on the table the way the blocks from the LMS site do.

Larry
New Orleans

| 291|208|2004-05-14 18:02:14|metalmill52|Treadmill Motor|

Mike or Group,

I have some info on treadmill motors in my article I posted to our
filr section about my home made mill. I am planning to eventually
replace the stock motor in my 8x14 and have purchased a controller.
I would really appreciate you posting any photos you have of your
conversion, especially small detail like motor mount, pulley mods,
etc. As you know the details make all the difference and a picture
is worth a thousand words. If my detective work is corect you
chose the Pacific Scientific motor - catalog number 10-1931-A from
Surplus Center? If so, you had to make your own mounts, how did
that go? The picture in the catalog looks alot like the Leeson
motor I used in my mill. Mountss were no problem, my article shows
how I did it. Thanks for you info, I look forward to hearing more
about it!! Bill C. Pensacola, FL.
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" from

| 292|208|2004-05-14 21:17:08|uptoolateman|Re: Treadmill Motor|

Yes that is the motor I used, it has two 5/16 threaded holes on 2
7/8" centers. I took a 3/4" thick plate of AL and cut it to 5 1/2"
square drilled the four mounting holes to attach it to the bed then
cut a 2" wide by 1/4" deep trench along it so the motor would have
something to align it and keep it from twisting. I then put in 2
slotted holes for the 2 mounting screws and recessed them on the
backside of the mount so the bolt heads would clear the lathe bed. I
also drilled and threaded a hole on each side of the motor for 2
pieces off allthread and then made a clamp plate that went over the
top of the motor and attached to the allthread. It's probably a
little overengineered but better to be too secure than have the motor
twist off its mount.
I put 3 setscrews in the step pulley with 2 of them inline with each
other on the 1st and 3rd step and 1 at 90 degrees from the other 2 on
the middle step. I did this because the pulley has a .630 bore and
the new motor has a .625 shaft and I didn't want the pulley to rock
back and forth. I also made a stepped key from a piece of 5mm
keystock so it had a tight fit on the new motor keyway and the pulley
keyway. The other thing I did was to attach the flanges of the timing
pulley to the pulley with some 2.5mm countersunk screws and put in 2
setscrews 90 degrees apart, I did have to gring the setscrews a
little so they were flush with the bottom of the teeth on the timing
pulley.
Today I'm finishing the new switch box to go in the same place as
the original so I can remote the motor controller and also house the
LMS tachometer I bought.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "metalmill52" controller.

| 293|208|2004-05-14 21:36:49|metalmill52|Re: Treadmill Motor|

Mike,

Thanks for the excellent explanation! Sounds like you are busy
making it happen, but I bet many of us would love to see pictures
when you get done. Thanks again!!

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" SNIP

the

| 294|208|2004-05-19 06:38:04|edwardd_|Re: Treadmill Motor|

Mike,

This is a very interesting topic. I looked at the site and got
confused. Not hard to do.

All I know about motors is how to turn them on.

I am seeking to understand how to use this motor. It is DC...you
talk about a contoller and a tach.

Could you give a novice a litle more information what is needed and
where on the internet to learn more about the different types of
motors.

Thanks in advance.

Still learning,
David

| 295|208|2004-05-20 23:50:56|uptoolateman|Re: Treadmill Motor|

David,
A DC motor uses a controller that converts 120 volt AC to DC voltage
that can be varied to control the motor's speed. DC motors will
provide more consistant torque over their speed range compared to an
AC motor with speed control unless you go to 3 phase but thats a
whole other kettle of fish.
I'm installing the tachometer just so I know where the speed is at
and not for controlling the motor although some motors and
controllers can be setup to use a tach for speed regulation.
I'm still getting the lathe back up and running so I haven't done a
lot of turning with the new motor yet. I'm hoping to get the spacer
on the spindle modified to fit the interuptor wheel for the tach and
make a bracket for the sensor today. I got the new electronics
enclosure installed on the lathe which houses the AC switch, motor
start switch, forward/reverse switch, speed pot, and the tach display.
You could probably go to the how stuff works site and do a search on
DC and AC motors to get a basic understanding of how they operate.
I hope this answers some of your questions.

Mike...

| 296|208|2004-05-21 04:22:10|edwardd_|Re: Treadmill Motor|

Mike,

Thanks for the explanations and suggestions where to look further.
I think I will order the tread mill motor and controller to study it.

David

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" voltage
an
at
a
spacer
and
display.
on
DC...you
and

| 297|200|2004-05-22 02:36:26|uptoolateman|Re: tachometer installation|

I just finished installing the LMS tachometer on my 8x14. What I did
was to open the bore in the interuptor to 33mm then I modified the
spacer that goes in between the spindle gear and spindle bearing. It
has a step at the end facing the spindle gear that was 36mm diameter
x 6mm deep, I cut this step down to 33mm and then increased the depth
of the step another 3 or 4mm so that when the interuptor was
installed on the spacer it would clear the back side of the gear that
is just below the spindle gear. I then drilled/tapped 2 3mm holes
opposite each other through the interuptor and spacer and installed
countersunk screws to hold the interuptor on. The screws are probably
overkill as super glue would probably be good enough.
I discarded the bracket that was attached to the sensor and made one
by bending a piece of 1/16" x 3/4" strip to 90 degrees slotted one
end to fit under the head of the large mounting bolt above the
spindle and threaded 2 3mm holes for the sensor on the other end I
had to install some plastic spacers under the sensor so it wouldn't
contact the metal bracket.

Hope this helps with installing the tach.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "clint_sims" gear

| 299|299|2004-05-25 03:55:26|Earle Ellis|Setup Lube Question|

Just finished installing my new BV20 and have a few questions regarding lubrication.

When the manual says fill the spindle box with No. 20 oil, do they mean to FILL the spindle box with more than 3 quarts of SAE 20W motor oil??

Or is there a more appropriate oil to use and will just a quart be sufficient to “splash around” in the spindle gear box during use??

Also, regarding the drive gears, should they be greased with a special lubricant? What is recommended?

Thanks,

Ebellis2

| 300|299|2004-05-26 00:43:09|Alan Trest|Re: Setup Lube Question|

I used Slick 50 gear oil in mine. Made it quieter also.

Alan T.

| 301|301|2004-05-26 20:44:34|John Labutski|My New zay7045 milling machine|

Just got my zay7045 lathemaster in the garage. This is one macho
bench mill. It dwarfs my neighbor's HF geared head mill. It has hand
scrapped ways, tapered gibs, and a two horse motor. The inch lead
screws are just about as good as my bridgeport was and backlash is
about the same as well. The updown (z axis) with the crank requires
less effort than the brigeport knee. The quill is massive compared
to the HF. Its darn near as big as the bridgeports quill. The
vertical column is about 8 inches square and solid on all for sides.
My first impression was wow!! It is far more beefy then I expected. I
called Robert at Lathemaster, and he reminded me that you have to
loosen three bolts to tram the head. He also suggest to run the mill
with a fresh batch of oil for about 10 minutes and then drain it.
This way any residual old oil and moisture would be cleared out. The
only thing that I will change is the cranks. I like the bridgeport
type for my old creaky hands.

Bob also has the power up and down z-axis model in stock now. Take a
look at his webb site, Lathemaster.com To be honest this is really
more mill than I need. Probably the x-3 from Lathemaster would have
been sufficient. But, now that I've got this mill, I am darn sure
going to keep it. Its really a beauty. There is no doubt in my mind
that this mill will be just as rigid as the Bridgeport and a lot
handier to use and move around. Also, this mill can handle the 6"
vise. I've got a 4" enco and I will see how it works out. Except for
a washing down and re-oiling I am going to run it as I got it. Some
guys love to take things apart. I found the mill pretty well ready to
go when I received it. Will keep you guys posted after I have some
run time on it.

John Ocala Florida

| 302|301|2004-05-27 14:14:50|Herb Mueller|Re: My New zay7045 milling machine|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" hand

John,
I have been checking the web site (Lathemaster.com) and haven't seen
the X3 mill or the power "Z" feed listed. When I check on ordering
all I get is "Out of Stock". Will I have to get on a mailing list if
I want to purchase a B20 Lathe and the ZAY7045 Mill?

Herb in Texas

| 303|301|2004-05-27 15:09:28|John P. Labutski|Re: My New zay7045 milling machine|

I usually need something so I just go to the Lathemaster webb site to get the phone number. Just click on cutting tools to place and order and you will enter a secured site and see the phone number. Yesterday I noticed they had the mills in stock with power z feet on the webb site. I think he has just a few left out of this shipment so call early. The shipments come in every month and its first come first serve. So if you really want something, get in there quick. I missed the previoius shipment of mills by a couple days so I had to wait until the last one came in to get mine. For my lathe and this mill I just placed the order by phone directly to Bob. The thing I like is that they all have real inch lead screws and not metric lead screws with a modified inch dial. The 7045 is one big mill. The picture is somewhat misleading to anyone who has owned a mini-mill. Take out a ruler and check the space you have available for it. I used the table size in my calculations, but forgot about the cranks. Now I am having to shuffle things around to make it fit. I don't mind though, its a real nice machine.

John

| 304|301|2004-05-27 16:16:16|Herb Mueller|Re: My New zay7045 milling machine|

Thanks for the info John. Now I just have to talk my bank into letting me buy one.

Herb in Texas

"John P. Labutski" wrote:

| 305|305|2004-05-29 23:42:45|George & Cathy Dunham|Enco promo code ?|

Attachments :

Hi All

I was wondering what the current ENCO promo code is, if any
available. ( Looking to get a Drill Dr. 750)

Thanks

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

| 306|306|2004-05-30 08:27:55|uptoolateman|8x14 lathe mods.|

Well it's been a pretty productive weekend for me. I was able to get
the DRO scales installed although the one for the cross slide fought
me all the way, 3 revs of brackets and then problems with the loose
nut behind the handwheels screwing some up. I ended up having to
solder a new connector to the circuit board on the cross slide scale
so the cable would come out sideways instead of straight up into the
work envelope (cables and spinning stuff are a bad combination). I
made covers over the scales out of 1/16" x 1" x 1" al angle to keep
the swarf off them. On the cross slide I replaced the socket head cap
screws with some 25mm long setscrews for the gib adjustment so I
could get the scale up closer to the cross slide.
The DC motor seems to work pretty good the one thing I did do was
enclose the portion of the splash shield near the motor so no swarf
would get into the motor since it has an open frame and permanent
magnets that will attract any iron.
I added a handwheel to the end of the main leadscrew by drilling and
tapping a 10mm hole in the end and adding a stub shaft. The leadscrew
is .780 and fit perfectly into the spindle for drilling.
The X3 is a great machine the only problem I had with it initially
was the location of the Z axis handwheel, I kept turning it when I
meant to move the Y axis or vise versa. the other problem I have is
when I go back to the sherline mill I keep trying to take the same
cuts as I do on the X3 which the sherline just won't do. Im working
on the DRO mounts for the X3 right now and will hopefully be done by
next weekend.
Mike...

| 307|306|2004-05-30 14:54:51|marvinstovall|Re: 8x14 lathe mods.|

Mike,
Sounds good. Got any pictures to post?
Leon

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" get
fought
scale
the
cap
and
leadscrew
by

| 308|306|2004-05-30 18:31:49|uptoolateman|Re: 8x14 lathe mods.|

No pictures yet, I have to talk to my IT person (wife) about getting
the digital camera to download to the computer on a consistant basis
and then I'll take some this week. Nothing seems to be plug and play
like they advertise and I have a low aggrevation threshhold when it
comes to computers. The one I have is a real POS I've almost picked
it up and thrown it out the back door on several occasions. My
opinion of the quality of the mill and lathe so far is very good, I
think for the money you would hard pressed to do better. The only
thing that would have been nice on the lathe is tumbler reverse but
I think that could be added, the only problem I see with that mod is
there is no stud gear to act as a pivot like the 9x lathe have. I
was thinking of something like the reverse gear arrangement on the
Atlas lathe that uses bevel gears and a dog clutch on the lead screw
and then you could add a stop shaft along the length of the bed with
adjustable stops that would kick the lead screw into nuetral.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" to
loose
I
keep
head
was
swarf
permanent
drilling
initially
when I
is
same
working
done

| 309|306|2004-05-30 20:35:26|marvinstovall|Re: 8x14 lathe mods.|

Mike,
I agree, I have an X3 mill and am very happy with it. Have the
8x14 lathe on order, just waiting for the shipment to get to Bob. If
the lathe is anything like the mill I know it will be worth the
wait. Sorry to hear about your frustration with computers.

Leon

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" getting
basis
play
is
screw
with
to
into
combination).
I
have

| 310|310|2004-05-31 16:02:58|John Labutski|ZAY7045 Mill & some ideas|

I have had the zay7045 up and running now for a few days. I am very
happy with the finishes I get flycutting. I don't have surface gauges
to check the finish but I can say its great. The mill came in with
the gibs a bit loose for shipping and grease retention. After
tightening them up snug the mill was already trammed close enough
(Less than .001 across 8 inches) that I won't mess with it. It
doesn't have the power up and down feature that the other model has.
But since I plan on putting on a bevel gear setup to replace the
crank and to simulate a knee like on the Bridgeport, this will work
great for me. This way I can use a standard knee drive motor for up
and down as well as the crank for close positioning.

I had originally thought that I would have a bit of difficulty in the
transition from a knee mill to a bench mill. I was surprised to find
out that its easier to drop the gear head for a deeper cut than it is
to crank up all that weight on the knee of the Bridgeport. I Rube
Goldberg'ed some sticky tape with a digital caliper and attached it
to the spindle marker. It was kind of interesting to have both the
crank and the spindle as options for positioning the depth of the
endmill. This would allow a simple stepper motor setup on the spindle
so you could pulse down in thousands of an inch for close tolerance
stuff and still have the z axis crank for coarse up and down. Any
body got any ideas on this? I am sure that this would work as well on
the x3 mill.

On one of the other groups, one guy fitted a ac gearmotor for up and
down on his standard 7045. He is supposed to post some pictures and
details on what he did. When he does I will provide a link to that
group.

This mill eats steel just like aluminum. It does a very nice job with
roughing end mills and four flutes. Because of the geared head its a
bit more noisey than the X3 at higher rpms but not objectionable. At
the lower rpms its actually quite quiet considering the power
available to the cutting tool.

I am interested in hearing from some of the other users of this mill
and their experiences.

John in Ocala Florida

| 311|310|2004-05-31 16:18:17|marvinstovall|Re: ZAY7045 Mill & some ideas|

Hi John,
I'm over in Satellit Beach. I have an X3. Are you using any
kind of coolant setup?
Leon

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" gauges
has.
the
find
is
spindle
on
and
with
a
At
mill

| 312|310|2004-05-31 18:41:48|John P. Labutski|Re: ZAY7045 Mill & some ideas|

I currently don't have a coolant setup on the new mill. I am just using a shop brush with a bit of kerosene mixed with a bit of 30 weight for cutting for steel. On the 8x14 I am using just moist air cooling which is just blowing air thru a container of water and directing it at the work piece and cutter at a very low psi. The guys on the 9x20 reflector say this will rust the equipment. I guess I will have to wait and see. I hate inhaling mist cooling and would rather smell my home brew mix. The x3 would most likely have handled my needs, but I wanted to go to a 6" vice that I still have in california. I have a bunch of softjaws for it with a bunch of homemade stops and according to the guys it would be overkill for the x3. Besides the doggone thing is heavy enough I only want to put it on the mill once. I purchased the x3 dc motor from Lathemater and I am designing a cheap controller for it. I hope to get it running in the next few weeks on the 8x14. If it works out a guy can have variable speed controller with a bit over 3/4 horsepower that he can build and fix himself as long as he can solder and use an ohmmeter. The x3 motor looks very well made and has plenty of power at higher rpms but I need to get the controller built to check it out at lower rpms on the 8x14.

My problem is there are so many things I want to do with all these dang toys, I just have to stick with and finish one at a time instead of getting more ideas. I already have eleven projects for the 8x14 and 7045 that are less than half completed. A second lead screw for variable x axis feed on the 8x14, a different type of tailstock lock for the 8x14, an interlock power cross feed for the 8x14, homebrew rpm indicator for the 8x14, just to name a few. I only had the mini-mill since I moved to Florida and it was a bit to small for doing big chunks of cast iron and steel. I just got about a hundred and sixty pounds of cast iron in various sizes so I can start cranking stuff out instead of just talking about it. I think the internet and computers have destroyed my ability to concentrate and make chips with all the great projects out there. HA HA. I seem to spend to much time with my cad program and surfin' the machining groups.

Take care

John Ocala, Florida

| 313|310|2004-05-31 22:50:26|marvinstovall|Re: ZAY7045 Mill & some ideas|

John,
I don't have a coolant setup yet, just use WD40 sometimes or
TapMagic for aluminum. Just about ruined a 3/4" end mill like that
on some steel though. I was looking at a mist unit but I don't have
air in my shop yet. For me the flood would be cheaper right now but
I need air anyway sometimes. If you use flood, do you need to drill
drain holes in the table or just let it fill up and run over? If you
drill, where is the best place to put them?
I know what you mean about the projects. I have several
unfinished ones laying about. I need to finish them and get started
on something else. I make a few parts for my dad, he's building an
airplane but I would like to make something besides doing mods to the
machinery itself. What do you make mostly?
I can't wait to get my 8x14. I have a Mini Mill and a 7x12, both
are ok but sometimes just a little small for what I need. I really
like my X3. I already have a 1.5hp DC motor with controller just
waiting for the 8x14. I'll probably use it as is for a while though.

Leon

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John P. Labutski" using a shop brush with a bit of kerosene mixed with a bit of 30
weight for cutting for steel. On the 8x14 I am using just moist air
cooling which is just blowing air thru a container of water and
directing it at the work piece and cutter at a very low psi. The
guys on the 9x20 reflector say this will rust the equipment. I guess
I will have to wait and see. I hate inhaling mist cooling and would
rather smell my home brew mix. The x3 would most likely have handled
my needs, but I wanted to go to a 6" vice that I still have in
california. I have a bunch of softjaws for it with a bunch of
homemade stops and according to the guys it would be overkill for the
x3. Besides the doggone thing is heavy enough I only want to put it
on the mill once. I purchased the x3 dc motor from Lathemater and I
am designing a cheap controller for it. I hope to get it running in
the next few weeks on the 8x14. If it works out a guy can have
variable speed controller with a bit over 3/4 horsepower that he can
build and fix himself as long as he can solder and use an ohmmeter.
The x3 motor looks very well made and has plenty of power at higher
rpms but I need to get the controller built to check it out at lower
rpms on the 8x14.
dang toys, I just have to stick with and finish one at a time instead
of getting more ideas. I already have eleven projects for the 8x14
and 7045 that are less than half completed. A second lead screw for
variable x axis feed on the 8x14, a different type of tailstock lock
for the 8x14, an interlock power cross feed for the 8x14, homebrew
rpm indicator for the 8x14, just to name a few. I only had the mini-
mill since I moved to Florida and it was a bit to small for doing big
chunks of cast iron and steel. I just got about a hundred and sixty
pounds of cast iron in various sizes so I can start cranking stuff
out instead of just talking about it. I think the internet and
computers have destroyed my ability to concentrate and make chips
with all the great projects out there. HA HA. I seem to spend to much
time with my cad program and surfin' the machining groups.

| 314|314|2004-05-31 23:12:43|mcundiff1|Insert tooling on 8X14|

Hello has anyone used insert tooling on the 8x14 ? How much power
does it have ? Could it take a .250 cut ( .125 a side ) on a piece
of 1.00" alum ( 6061 )?

Thanks Mitch.................

| 315|314|2004-06-02 05:24:38|Alan Trest|Re: Insert tooling on 8X14|

Hi Mitch,

.125 cuts would be quite a bit for even a larger lathe. Its more than
I have ever attempted.

Alan T.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mcundiff1"

| 316|316|2004-06-02 16:47:51|Brian Tuttle|Accessories|

Hi all,

Uncle Sam finally got me my tax refund so now I will be placing an order with Bob at Lathemaster for an 8x14. I have read great things about the collet chuck he carries. I have never used a collet chuck so thought I would ask everybody's opinion. I plan on getting a qctp, and some indexable tools that will take both carbide and hss. Should I go with 1/2" or 3/8"? My lathe experience is just gunsmithing (barrels, pins, etc. and tinkering around with a Cummins 7x12 which has passed to other hands. Any advice on nifty tooling is appreciated. Still trying to make up my mind between the x3 and the ZAY7045FG monster he carries. My milling projects will be fairly small, but you never know what may grab me. Opinions on this choice as well as appropriate vise sizes are also happily solicited. My milling experience is less than lathe, just things like making slide cocking serrations, sight cuts, and milling .45 frames for ramped barrel installation all done on a Bridgeport so I have no idea what to expect from one of these smaller machines, but I can't wait to get my hands on one.

thanks,

Brian Tuttle

Confucius say "man who stands on toilet is high on pot" and "man who drink wet cement is often stoned"

| 317|316|2004-06-02 18:05:36|Green, James|Re: Accessories|

Here is my two cents....

Nice choice on the 8 x 14. I currently use 3/8" indexable tools from LMS
with HSS inserts and have no complaints. I've tried using carbide inserts
(came with the indexable tools) on drill rod and the finish was close to 80
grit sandpaper. I also use $10.00 diamond stones from Harbor Freight to
keep those HSS inserts nice and sharp. Picked up the QCTP from Bob and I
only had one complaint. I was unable to turn the tool post in a complete
circle because the milled recessed area wasn't long enough (front to back).
You can check Bob's web site and see what I mean. I had the guys in the
tool and die shop at work fix this minor problem. I added a 16" scale and a
single axis DRO display to the carriage so I can cut shoulders with no
hassles. It was a slight over kill on the scale and DRO display but I
didn't like the idea of using a 2" indicator and having to move it when I
exceeded the 2" travel. You will most likely want to slow down the feed
rate to under .0025. Don't forget to order the drill chuck from Bob for the
8 x 14. Also have plans in the works for making the tail stock into a
cam-lock tail stock. Too many other projects in the way......

Don't have a milling machine yet but will order the X3 in the very near
future. I would get the 7045 if my workshop wasn't in the basement. Rather
hard to get a 600+ pound package down the stairs but the X3 will fit the
bill perfectly.

James

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Tuttle [mailto:bigbt@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 5:28 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Accessories

Hi all,

Uncle Sam finally got me my tax refund so now I will be placing an order
with Bob at Lathemaster for an 8x14. I have read great things about the
collet chuck he carries. I have never used a collet chuck so thought I
would ask everybody's opinion. I plan on getting a qctp, and some indexable
tools that will take both carbide and hss. Should I go with 1/2" or 3/8"?
My lathe experience is just gunsmithing (barrels, pins, etc. and tinkering
around with a Cummins 7x12 which has passed to other hands. Any advice on
nifty tooling is appreciated. Still trying to make up my mind between the
x3 and the ZAY7045FG monster he carries. My milling projects will be fairly
small, but you never know what may grab me. Opinions on this choice as well
as appropriate vise sizes are also happily solicited. My milling experience
is less than lathe, just things like making slide cocking serrations, sight
cuts, and milling .45 frames for ramped barrel installation all done on a
Bridgeport so I have no idea what to expect from one of these smaller
machines, but I can't wait to get my hands on one.

thanks,

Brian Tuttle

Confucius say "man who stands on toilet is high on pot" and "man who drink
wet cement is often stoned"

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 318|316|2004-06-02 22:47:35|Brian Tuttle|Re: Accessories|

thanks for the opinion James, how do you slow down the feed rate to under
.0025 on this lathe? new gears??

| 319|316|2004-06-03 13:51:28|Green, James|Re: Accessories|

Currently I have achieved a feed rate of .0035 with swapping out two gears.
I replaced the 35 and 90 tooth gears with 25 and 100 tooth gears. The 100
tooth gear can be obtained from Bob and I purchased a 25 tooth for $12.00
off the internet. Of course I couldn't find a 25 tooth gear for a 16MM
keyed shaft and I had the guys in the tool and die room use their EDM
machine to cut the key and 16MM hole in the gear I purchased. John Labutski
who is part of this list is coming up with a way of using a second lead
screw, DC motor and a few other parts to achieve very low feed rates with
reverse. Either I will go with his idea or put the tumbler gears on a
"slide" so I can change out the 80 tooth gear for a 90 tooth gear and get a
feed rate of .0022. Installing the tumbler gears on slides will enable me
to invoke a reverse feed in about 10 seconds without using a wrench, curse
words and holding my breath to move the two gears.

James

PS. Pick up a can of WD-40 so you can wipe down your lathe to remove the
fine packing oil that they use.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Tuttle [mailto:bigbt@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 4:08 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Accessories

thanks for the opinion James, how do you slow down the feed rate to under
.0025 on this lathe? new gears??

| 320|320|2004-06-03 20:01:54|Green, James|Clamp Set for X3|

Don't have my X3 yet but I was wondering if I could use a 1/2" clamp set on
it???? I know the slots on the X3 are 12MM but would prefer to use the 1/2"
clamp set without machining the T-nuts......

Thanks

James Green

| 321|320|2004-06-04 16:27:52|mineralman55|Re: Clamp Set for X3|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" clamp set on
the 1/2"
The T-nuts won't fit, nor will the associated bolts will fit into the
X3's table.

Larry

| 322|322|2004-06-05 14:32:02|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|New photos of items for sale|

Hi guys, I want to try something. I put an album in photos of items
for sale for everyone in the group to add to if you want to sell
something. Please put an email address in the description. Maybe
someone in the group has spare items they can sell to members first.
And please be honest I know you are a good bunch of guys. Thanks..Bob

| 323|322|2004-06-05 17:03:16|Mike Eorgoff|Re: New photos of items for sale|

Remember to delete them when you are done.

Mike

| 324|324|2004-06-08 02:00:23|mcundiff1|ZAY7045L mill|

Hello all I was planning on getting a ZAY7045L mill around the
begining of next year. Is this a mill that Bob will have then ?
I hope I hope ....................

Thanks Mitch............

| 325|325|2004-06-08 04:28:17|metalmill52|Photos of treadmill motor mounting|

Hi All,

I just uploaded 4 new photos in the Bill C photo file. These photos
show my progress so far on mounting a DC treadmill motor to my
8x14. I'm following Mike's basic idea (see message 292), but used a
stock like end washer and drilled and tapped motor shaft to retain
the pulleys.

Next phase will be mounting the controller and wiring it up. I'll
add some more shots as it goes.

Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

| 326|326|2004-06-08 08:15:41|uptoolateman|8x14 pictures|

I made a folder in the photos section called mikes pics with
pictures of some of my lathe mods.
mike.

| 327|325|2004-06-08 12:47:08|marvinstovall|Re: Photos of treadmill motor mounting|

Great pictures Bill but some are kinda small to see much detail.

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "metalmill52" photos
a

| 328|326|2004-06-08 12:49:49|marvinstovall|Re: 8x14 pictures|

Nice going Mike.

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman"

| 329|329|2004-06-08 12:51:23|marvinstovall|Treadmill Motors|

Do these motors need a cooling fan? The one I have doesn't have one
and doesn't look like it ever did but can't tell for sure.

Marv

| 330|326|2004-06-08 13:40:23|Green, James|Re: 8x14 pictures|

Nice upgrades!!!!! Care to share more information about adding a hand wheel
to the leadscrew??? i.e. Where did you get the hand wheel and how you
created the stub shaft......

Thanks

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: uptoolateman [mailto:b.foti@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 2:15 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] 8x14 pictures

I made a folder in the photos section called mikes pics with
pictures of some of my lathe mods.
mike.

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 331|326|2004-06-08 17:53:55|uptoolateman|Re: 8x14 pictures|

I removed the leadscrew and chucked it up in the lathe and drilled-
tapped it about 1/2" deep for 3/8" thread. The stub shaft is a piece
of 1/2" steel that is threaded for about 3/4" and has an unthreaded
section as long as the bore of the handwheel. I made a stepped
washer for the nut and lockwasher to bear against because the
leadscrew is recessed slightly from the end of the bearing. The
handwheel is from grizzly H3471 and cost $6.00. I milled a flat on
the shaft and drilled - tapped a hole in the handwheel for a
setscrew. The only minor annoyance I have with it is that the
carriage moves the opposite way than expected, but it does make it
easy to do fine hand feeding and allows me to use the DRO instead of
using the compound and counting handwheel turns for shorter parts.
I've already thought about making a small gearbox with 2 spur gears
to make the handwheel turn the correct way but thats a project for
another day.
Mike.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
how you
M=285832.4915498.6053011.1269404/D=groups/S=
subject=Unsubscribe Service

| 332|329|2004-06-08 18:01:32|uptoolateman|Re: Treadmill Motors|

Marv,
None of the people I know or have talked to about these motors are
using cooling fans. I talked to Steve bedair about the durability of
his DC motor setup and he hasn't had any issues for a year. I would
however provide space around the motor for airflow. A cooling fan
wouldn't hurt anything and may help in the long run but I would be
sure to shield the motor enclosure as much as possible to prevent
the fan from drawing metal chips into the motor.
Mike.
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" one

| 333|329|2004-06-08 23:42:08|marvinstovall|Re: Treadmill Motors|

Ok Great,
I thought about using an electric fan and filter with some simple
ducting blowing from the left side. If I could find a fan to fit or
close to fitting the shaft I might put it on anyway. I'll probably
wait till I get it installed and see how hot it gets.

Thanks,
Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" of

| 334|326|2004-06-09 02:44:14|metalmill52|Re: 8x14 pictures|

Mike,

Wow! Nice work and great pics! I made a very similar splash guard
last night. Your control box is way nicer than mine will be (at
least for now), very good job! The only problem is you've added to
my never ending list of future upgrades (leadscrew handwheel, tach,
etc...).

Thanks,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman"

| 335|326|2004-06-10 07:46:17|uptoolateman|Re: 8x14 pictures|

Thanks for the compliments, I'll take some pictures of the mill to
show the DRO and table stops I added. If you want more detailed pics
of anything let me know.
Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "metalmill52"

| 336|336|2004-06-11 06:19:10|Chris|Just wanna say hello|

Hello everyone. My name is Chris Szczygiel and I live in Douglasville
GA originally from NJ. I'm an aircraft mechanic for Delta Air Lines.
I worked as a sheetmetal skill in MD88 and 737 overhaul for several
years. That's where I caught the machining sickness. It's kind of
ironic it didn't happen sooner, my father is a 40 years machinest. I
currently have a 7x12 lathe and my X3 mill is being shipped today. I
have a feeling I'll be replacing the 7x12 with a 8x14 in the future.

I do plan on converting the X3 to cnc somewhere down the road. But
not untill I've learned how to actually use the mill well. My big
project will be a KJ66 micro turbine. Right now it's way way out of
my league, it will be my goal to work up to. For now there are
several mods I've wanted to make to the 7x12 but I've needed a mill
to do so. No more excuses now.

I guess that's all for now. This group seems much more friendly than
the 7x's and I look forward to participating.

Chris Szczygiel

| 337|336|2004-06-11 13:30:50|Green, James|Re: Just wanna say hello|

You will see very little "off topics" posts around here........

Have fun with your X3.......

James

-----Original Message-----
From: Chris [mailto:chrissz@...]
Sent: Friday, June 11, 2004 12:19 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Just wanna say hello

Hello everyone. My name is Chris Szczygiel and I live in Douglasville
GA originally from NJ. I'm an aircraft mechanic for Delta Air Lines.
I worked as a sheetmetal skill in MD88 and 737 overhaul for several
years. That's where I caught the machining sickness. It's kind of
ironic it didn't happen sooner, my father is a 40 years machinest. I
currently have a 7x12 lathe and my X3 mill is being shipped today. I
have a feeling I'll be replacing the 7x12 with a 8x14 in the future.

I do plan on converting the X3 to cnc somewhere down the road. But
not untill I've learned how to actually use the mill well. My big
project will be a KJ66 micro turbine. Right now it's way way out of
my league, it will be my goal to work up to. For now there are
several mods I've wanted to make to the 7x12 but I've needed a mill
to do so. No more excuses now.

I guess that's all for now. This group seems much more friendly than
the 7x's and I look forward to participating.

Chris Szczygiel

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 338|336|2004-06-11 14:01:51|rrrevels|Re: Just wanna say hello|

Hi Chris,

Welcome to the group. I have had my 8x14 since Oct and love it. I
am not a machinist either. I just like to learn and play. I have
managed to make a number of useful parts on the 8x14 while make
buckets of brillo pads. I find the 8x14 to be very stable and solid.

I also have a Taig Mill that I have converted to CNC and a Grizzly
Mini Mill that is my manual.

Russ
Pensacola, Fl

| 339|336|2004-06-11 16:39:19|John P. Labutski|Re: Just wanna say hello|

Welcome to the group Chris. You will enjoy this bunch a whole lot. Congrats on getting the X3. You will love it. Its a pretty macho mill for 300 lbs. James Green told me today that there is power feed for the x axis that you can get from lathemaster now. Its great to have a sheetmetal guy in the group. Some off us just loving doing add on's to our equipment and your comments and technical advice will be a welcome addition.

John Labutski

kd6wd@...

| 340|336|2004-06-11 17:27:14|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Just wanna say hello|

Welcome Chris, Brother of the bulldog snips. I too am a sheetmetal
worker. I have not bought a Lathemaster yet, but help run this great
group of experts on Lathemasters...Bob

| 341|341|2004-06-17 05:48:50|Bill Wilkins|Cam fixture & trdmill motor rpm|

Hello All,

Two questions.

Does anyone know of a reference for a fixture used to make a single
lobe cam? I have seen it somewhere but can't remember where.

With all of the posts on the treadmill motor coversions & the 8X14 I
am curious of the HP and the rpm of the motor used. I some time ago
purchased one off Ebay. Mine is 1 1/2 hp and max 4800 rpm, varible
speed of course. It has a cast iron flywheel/pulley/fan that screws
off of the shaft. Have not got around to my conversion yet.

I have enjoyed all of the on topic posts, keep it up.

The Best to All

BGBill

| 342|341|2004-06-21 03:19:13|metalmill52|Re: Cam fixture & trdmill motor rpm|

Hi BGBill and All!

I can't help when it comes to the cam question, but the motor sounds
very similar to the one many folks are using. In fact, the RPM and
HP are almost identical (IIRC).

I've finished my installation and have used the lathe a few times
with the new setup. Very nice to just twist a knob to slow down or
speed up. I think that Mike covered thngs very well in his recent
posts (292) and I really liked seeing his pictures. When I get some
time, I'll take some better photos of my lathe and post them.

I'd like to thank everyone for the great ON topic contributions, as
well. I belong to many groups but only look at this and one other
on a routine basis - good job everyone!

Happy Father's Day!

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" single
I

| 343|343|2004-06-24 14:04:16|mineralman55|Woodcutting on the X3|

It's not metalworking (and may be considered heresey here) but I
experimented with wood routing on my X3 last night. I discussed it
with a master woodworker who suggested I get a 1/2 shank router bit
to help reduce any shock on the bit.

I purchased a Bosch 1/2 inch shank 2-flute carbide straight wood
router bit, put it in a collet and fired up the X3, full speed on
the "HIGH" setting. It worked great. Very smooth cuts in some hard,
knotty pine. Precision of course was excellent. After cutting, I made
sure to vacuum all the wood chips. No sense in letting something that
attracts moisture sit on cast iron, especially down here.

Now that I verified that it works well, I'll make an aluminum fence
to fit into the table. I may even find some shaper cutters to fit a
stub arbor. This should become a fine little light duty wood mill.

Larry
New Orleans

BTW, Lowe's had a clearance on the bimetal bandsaw blades that fit
Lathemaster's tabletop bandsaw--- $4 plus change, so I picked up a
couple. If you need them, you might check it out.

| 344|344|2004-06-30 01:20:39|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|a couple of plans in links|

Hi guys, I posted in the links section a couple of plans (pics) for a
scissor knurl tool and a double ended carbide triangle tool bit.
Sorry no translation from me. LOL...Bob

| 345|345|2004-06-30 04:40:57|wookie272276|Modded X3 in disguise|

I got a BobCad sales flyer in my e-mail today and spotted this
interesting item for the small sum of $12000!

Hopefully this will fire up KDN tools.

http://www.bobcad.com/index_barracuda.php

| 346|345|2004-06-30 14:01:43|mineralman55|Re: Modded X3 in disguise|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "wookie272276"
release. Must be clarivoyant.

LarryO

| 347|347|2004-07-01 02:56:14|metalmill52|New Photos of DC motor, control, plus knurler|

Hello Everyone!

I have just added a couple of photos showing the finished DC motor
conversion. I replaced one of the small fuzzy shots, and also added
some pics of a knurler I just made. The knurler is patterned after
the one seen on the Little Machine Shop website, with some mods
according to the knurls that Alan was able to get for me (thanks!)
and the stock I had at hand. I've tried it out on the ring nut for
the rotary table project and it works great. The DC motor just
purred happily along, as well!

The photos are in the "Bill C" file folder, under the DC treadmill
motor sub folder.

Thanks to everyone for their great contributions, I really enjoy
your informative posts!

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

| 348|348|2004-07-01 03:10:48|John Labutski|Power up, down, variable feed boring.|

I finally got my cog belt and now my zay7045fg has power up head and
power down head and variable speed boring. I used cog pulleys from
Surplus Center part# 1-2211 ($8.95 for two pulleys and a cog belt).
The belt was too long so I purchased one locally $32.00 I am using
the 11-2449 dc controller from Surplus Center which was $29.95 and a
1/8 HP 38 rpm Dc gearmotor for $69.95. 1/8 hp is the smallest power
you should use in this application. I think that the head weighs well
over two hundred pounds on the 7045. Also you have to consider the
drag the gibs add. Total cost with screws and aluminum for a bracket
was $143.00 I could have used the belt that came in the set, but a
shorter one made bracket fab a lot easier but cost 32 bucks more.
This allows me to move the spindle head up and down at about 8 inches
per minute with the gibs pretty snug which I figure is fast enough
for collet changes, putting in a boring head,drill chuck etc. I am
not the man I used to be and turning that crank on the 7045 is just
as much work as it was on the Bridgeport. Heck, ten tool changes and
I was ready for a nap. I got this idea from the guy who used an ac
gear motor for up and down. If you don't need bells and whistles look
up his earlier posting. It sure saves a lot of work. His only cost
about 70.00 as I recall. The reason I chose this way was so that I
could take the old crank mount it next to the mill base. This would
be able to simulate a Bridgeport knee by using a rotary encoder on a
shaft attached to the old crank. I will then take the pulses off of
the encoder and send them to the controller in the circuit just
before the mosfets (just two wires, one for ground and one for the
pulse). I also plan on adding a couple of micro switches for fixed
stops and a couple of push button momentary switches that will allow
me to jog up and down in roughly .001 increments. I have a bit of
cleanup to do on the motor mounting bracket and add a cog belt guard
as well as making a control box before I take pictures and put them
in the photos section. I did find a source for Green Hamertone paint
that I think will match the mill. I just got the spray cans and the
powered head stuff will be my first test for color match.

John Ocala Florida

| 349|348|2004-07-01 14:01:47|Green, James|Re: Power up, down, variable feed boring.|

Good job on the power feed John

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: John Labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 9:11 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Power up, down, variable feed boring.

I finally got my cog belt and now my zay7045fg has power up head and
power down head and variable speed boring. I used cog pulleys from
Surplus Center part# 1-2211 ($8.95 for two pulleys and a cog belt).
The belt was too long so I purchased one locally $32.00 I am using
the 11-2449 dc controller from Surplus Center which was $29.95 and a
1/8 HP 38 rpm Dc gearmotor for $69.95. 1/8 hp is the smallest power
you should use in this application. I think that the head weighs well
over two hundred pounds on the 7045. Also you have to consider the
drag the gibs add. Total cost with screws and aluminum for a bracket
was $143.00 I could have used the belt that came in the set, but a
shorter one made bracket fab a lot easier but cost 32 bucks more.
This allows me to move the spindle head up and down at about 8 inches
per minute with the gibs pretty snug which I figure is fast enough
for collet changes, putting in a boring head,drill chuck etc. I am
not the man I used to be and turning that crank on the 7045 is just
as much work as it was on the Bridgeport. Heck, ten tool changes and
I was ready for a nap. I got this idea from the guy who used an ac
gear motor for up and down. If you don't need bells and whistles look
up his earlier posting. It sure saves a lot of work. His only cost
about 70.00 as I recall. The reason I chose this way was so that I
could take the old crank mount it next to the mill base. This would
be able to simulate a Bridgeport knee by using a rotary encoder on a
shaft attached to the old crank. I will then take the pulses off of
the encoder and send them to the controller in the circuit just
before the mosfets (just two wires, one for ground and one for the
pulse). I also plan on adding a couple of micro switches for fixed
stops and a couple of push button momentary switches that will allow
me to jog up and down in roughly .001 increments. I have a bit of
cleanup to do on the motor mounting bracket and add a cog belt guard
as well as making a control box before I take pictures and put them
in the photos section. I did find a source for Green Hamertone paint
that I think will match the mill. I just got the spray cans and the
powered head stuff will be my first test for color match.

John Ocala Florida

| 350|350|2004-07-02 01:08:59|lonewolfgun|opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

I'm looking to buy a milling machine to do some gunsmithing on and I
found the lathe master web site.Any one own one can you tell me the
good and bad things about it .

| 351|350|2004-07-02 02:21:28|John P. Labutski|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

If your interested in the X-3 here is the site to goto:

http://www.tedatum.com/thms/

Dan Kautz does the nicest job of any one on the X-3 which is sold but not advertised by Lathemaster.Com because of the great demand.

I have the zay7045FG and I love it. I feel it compares very favorably with the square column Rong Fu. The prime difference between these two mills is that the Rong Fu column casting is open in the back. I.E. it has bolt on panels. The Lathemaster is solid on the back of the square vertical column. Because the back of the Lathemaster vertical column is solid the interior of the column casting is a bit rough. This is because there is no way to get into the interior and grind or machine the surfaces. Therefore they have to manually remove the sprues, etc. from casting. This item in no way impacts the overall quality of the mill. In fact the solid back of the vertical column is the reason I purchased it instead of the Rong Fu. I just added a power feed for the head up and down. The casting is at least 5/8" thick in the areas I drilled holes (maybe even 3/4") in the sides of the vertical column for mounting the power head lift motor I added. So its darn rigid.

The one thing that bugged me recently was that I had some difficulty trying to get to the nut adjustment for backlash on the x axis lead screw. Its about 1" deeper to get to then my longest allen wrench. So, I chopped a chunk off off another allen wrench and stuck it in the end of a 1/2 diameter piece of round stock about a foot long. I had to get the grandkid to stick it in the screw. I wear glasses and have a big head (physically) and didn't want to pull off the crank to see the screw clearly.

The other thing that was difficult was drilling holes for the y axis DRO just below the ways. The Lathemaster ways are quite deeply hardened (good thing) and down the side of the casting to about 3/8". This was difficult to drill and tapping of two holes took me about 45 minutes. I took my time because I didn't want to bust a tap.

The y axis way cover is much thicker than necessary and I am going to replace it with thinner material. Also, I really thought using 4 each 1/4-20 bolts to hold the way cover in place was just a bit of overkill.

I have machined a bunch of cast iron and steel and have created about 60 or more pounds of swarf with it and really like the mill. If you get any mill make sure you get a square column one. Since your going to be doing gunsmithing, you will appreciate the great way these square column mills machine steel. The tapered gibs give you a very sensitive smooth feel when you are turning the cranks which is very nice for cutting dovetails in barrels, trigger work, etc.

Don't overlook the X-3 it may be all you really need.

John

| 352|320|2004-07-02 04:15:35|nowdkyle|Re: Clamp Set for X3 (and vise)|

I just joined the group so this response to your question may not be
of interest to you. I have a 3/8 inch clamp set. Had to mill the
nuts down to fit but that was no problem. Makes a decent starter
project to get familiar with the mill.

Others have asked about the vise. I use a 3" "Anglock" type. It is
nearly perfect size. I bought mine on eBay and it just happened to
be the same green as the mill. (I have to watch for the fashion
police around here.)

I do like the X3 a lot.
Regards,
Richard

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
use the 1/2"

| 353|353|2004-07-03 00:52:46|mineralman55|CNC the 8x14|

Anyone in this group CNC the 8x14 yet? I am VERY interested in doing
so, but don't quite know where to begin. I am only now starting to
surf the web, reading stuff, learning. There's a college nearby that
offers industrial tech courses, but it's doubtful they'll let me in
without becoming a full time student (not going to happen.) I'd sure
be interested in your lathe experiences.

Larry
New Orleans

| 354|350|2004-07-04 14:35:50|cba_melbourne|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

There is also this site:
http://homepage3.nifty.com/rockhill/furaisu-9.htm

All text is Japanese only - but there are many pages of truly
excellent detail pictures of the X3 mill and its components. And who
knows, maybe one day there will be an english translation, I feel the
text would be highly interesting too.

I am seriously considering an X3 too. There is just one little detail
that still holds me back from ordering: the distance table to spindle
is very tight. So far, I found out the metric model with MT3 spindle
has 10mm more headroom (290mm instead of 280mm for the R8 spindle).
Chris

| 355|350|2004-07-06 22:27:44|edwardd_|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Chris and all,

Go to
http://world.altavista.com/

and enter the site to translate

http://homepage3.nifty.com/rockhill/furaisu-9.htm

On the pull down menu select Japanese to English. Voila. Not
perfect but damn better than I can read.

Enjoy.

David

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne"
the
detail
spindle
spindle
spindle).

| 356|350|2004-07-07 00:03:26|Tim|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Does anybody know if Lathemaster will be putting in another order
soon for the Sieg X3 machines?

| 357|350|2004-07-07 00:18:50|John P. Labutski|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Lathemaster always has them on order. They are very much in demand and hard to get. As Dan Kautz has said, the x3 is the mill that the mini-mill should have been. It handles milling steel very well. You just place your order by email and Lathemaster will telephone you and will look at the schedule and give you an idea of when they will come in. Don't send any credit card numbers. Bob will get that when you discuss delivery and he computes the shipping costs to your home. When they hit the dock (usually about 30 days depending on backorders) Bob will send you an email letting you know it shipped.

| 358|350|2004-07-07 06:05:06|wookie272276|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Totally off topic but the following instructions are extra funny if
you picture Yoda in your head, reading the "engrish".

An excerpt:
"With the front section wobble of the drill chuck which was not measured
You tried seeing
Basis of the brand-new drill gimlet of 13mm was measured
0. It was settled in the wobble of 01mm. Tightening the chuck
You think some with one that it changes."

Who knew part of the milling preparatory steps included clearing your
third eye!

| 359|350|2004-07-08 15:18:22|cba_melbourne|Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Great thing this translation feature, I did not think its possible.
With a little fantasy, it is possible to guess the idea. Looks like
our Japanese friend had big problems with the X3 gear noise. He went
to grat lengths to replace the DC motor drive with a 3-phase VFD
drive and two step belt drive. Now, this could be because he lives in
an apartment block and wants to work when his neighbours sleep.

How serious is this noise anyway, is it acceptable in a typical home
workshop? Or is it the source of vibration problems, or is the motor
not strong enough? I just find it hard to understand why somebody
would replace a brand new variable speed drive for another. Chris

| 360|350|2004-07-09 02:13:09|nowdkyle|X3 motor noise was Re: opinions on lathemaster milling machine|

Mine certainly isn't loud enough to complain about. It does have the
gear noise.

Dick K.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne"
like
went
in
home
motor

| 361|361|2004-07-09 21:18:20|mineralman55|X3 Article|

The British mag "Model Engineer" had a very complimentary article on
our X3 mill. The author bought one specifically to cnc it. His
comments were the same as most of ours, that it was well finished
(better than most of the other Sieg stuff) and held precision well.
I might follow his progress, as that's something I will look at
WAAAAY down the road.

One thing I noticed, the inflated prices the Euros pay for their
equipment is outrageous! Just another reason to be a proud (and
happy) American.

Larry

| 362|362|2004-07-10 00:27:12|Alan Trest|New Mill|

Hi All,

I have the Lathemaster Model #ZAY7045L Dovetail powerhead Mill in the
shop now. First impressions are "WOW"!!!!.

This is really an impressive piece of equipment. I will be doing
some cutting and testing this weekend so look for a comprehensive
update and review on my site and here on the forum next week.

Alan T.

| 363|361|2004-07-10 01:33:37|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 Article|

Larry, not only in Europe, here in Australia the X3 sells for AU$1999
plus freight, thats US$1441 (for both metric +MT3 or imperial +R8
versions). There is simply not enough competition in our small
market. Chris

| 364|364|2004-07-10 05:02:49|brusselator|handling heavy equipment|

Hi,
I am considering purchasing the 8x14 lathe. My only problem regarding this lathe (as opposed to Microlux) is the weight. Hence I am inquiring about procedures and tools that can help moving and hoisting it up to a table. I am aware of the possibility of using a engine hoist, but this adds 200$ to my cost,if choose not lease it. Could you please advice if there are other alternatives.
sincerely
b thomas

| 365|364|2004-07-10 06:44:22|uptoolateman|Re: handling heavy equipment|

Thomas,
When I recieved my lathe I removed the tailstock, carriage, and
motor from the lathe and it was managable to lift with just myself
and my wife. You could also look into renting a hoist from an auto
parts store.
Mike...

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "brusselator" regarding this lathe (as opposed to Microlux) is the weight. Hence I
am inquiring about procedures and tools that can help moving and
hoisting it up to a table. I am aware of the possibility of using a
engine hoist, but this adds 200$ to my cost,if choose not lease it.
Could you please advice if there are other alternatives.

| 366|364|2004-07-10 22:00:32|mineralman55|Re: handling heavy equipment|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "brusselator"
am inquiring about procedures and tools that can help moving and
hoisting it up to a table. I am aware of the possibility of using a
engine hoist, but this adds 200$ to my cost,if choose not lease it.
Could you please advice if there are other alternatives.
Ask some neighbors to help, or a couple of teenaged boys in the
neighborhood to lift it into place for you. Give them $20.

Larry

| 367|367|2004-07-11 01:43:34|Paul Montgomery|13 TPI with the 8 x 14........no problem!|

Hi all,

Well, I finally hit the nail on the head for 13 tpi with the LM
8x14. Looking from top to bottom at the banjo lineup for 14 tpi,
change the last two gears from 60 and 70 to 66 and 72. I have cut
several samples and they are all more than acceptable. The
calculated error is 7 tenths of one percent. The only drawback is
that the threading dial is not useable for this scheme. So once the
half nut is engaged it is best to leave it that way until the
threads are finished. The spanner wrench for the castleated nuts on
the spindle makes a fairly good hand crank though. This can also be
done with the motor control switch and I used both methods with the
same results but I prefer the hand crank method. How did I do these
calculations? Take a look at the PDF file for the Harbor Freight
8x12 lathe on their website. What's next? 28 TPI of course. Gee, I
sure like my LM 8x14. It is really a sturdy and rigid little brute
with gobs of torque to spare and dealing with Bob Bertrand is a
genuine pleasure.

Regards to All

| 369|369|2004-07-13 03:02:29|John Labutski|Lightning|

Lightning just wiped out my modem, router and network. So James I
can't post any pictures yet. Had the computer fixed and it died
again three hours later. Drop me an email with your phone number to
this address

corkyscorner@...

John Ocala Florida

| 370|370|2004-07-14 10:06:35|cba_melbourne|X3 mills, available variations|

I visited the Australian dealer for this mill. What I have seent may
be of interest.

There are two versions of this mill, imperial leadscrews with R8
spindle and metric leadscrews with MT3 spindle. The MT3 spindle has
two rectangular drive dogs, so it does not solely rely on the taper.

These two versions are available each in two additional "sub"-
versions:

- table 450mm long x 160mm wide, with 300mm x-stroke
- table 550mm long x 160mm wide, with 400mm x-stroke
(the lead screw for the longer table has a support bracket with
bearing on the left side, and also a T-slot at the front of the
table)

- vertical dovetail for 290mm z-travel
- vertical dovetail for 390mm z-travel

The newer machines also come with an adjustable perspex swarf guard.
I have to say that the model with 100mm longer table and 100mm more
vertical headroom looks very exciting to me, its almost the ideal
hobbymill. I am now faced with the dilemma of buying either a
standard height & long table, or an extended height standard table
version ex stock with discount, or order an extended height & long
table version and wait 2-3 months for delivery. I also ckecked the
noise levels, and yes the grared head is definitely noisy at high
speeds (the gears do not run in an oil bath, but are just surface
greased). However, its acceptable in a detached or basement workshop.
The machine stand is unusually high (for chinese standards), made
from 2mm steel, low cost and solid looking. Overall quality of the
machine is definitely better than all the other products from Sieg.
Chris

| 371|371|2004-07-16 17:58:11|lonewolfgun|phonenumber|

Does lathemaster have a phone number? I would like to talk to them in
person.

| 372|371|2004-07-16 19:05:49|John Labutski|Re: phonenumber|

Yes they do, if they are not available just leave a message that
states what you want to buy. They will return your call. They also
do a lot of ebay sales so look there as well.

Here is the number

225-377-7001

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "lonewolfgun" in

| 373|373|2004-07-18 22:23:17|blackrifle|Slow Boat From China|

I called Bob at LATHEMASTER and confirmed my order for the
CQ6120X320 8X14 lathe and the X3 XJ9522 mill. The mill is
in stock, but the lathe is on a "Slow Boat From China" hehe.

That Mr Bertrand is a nice man to do business with and he
does not mind taking the time for all my questions.

I want to add my thanks to the pagemasters and all the group
for the nice photos, files, and links. Great job guys and gals.

I'm sitting by the phone waiting for Bob's call to come pick up
my goodies. Michael R. Moody Sr.

| 374|373|2004-07-19 00:32:50|marvinstovall|Re: Slow Boat From China|

Mr. Moody,

Did Bob give any estimate on the arrival time? I'm also waiting on an
8x14. It's been a long wait so far but I'll be patient. You will
like the X3. Mine is great.

Leon Stovall

| 375|373|2004-07-19 01:22:00|blackrifle|Re: Slow Boat From China|

Hello Mr. Stovall,

Nope, Bob did not have a firm arrival date as of yesterday.
How is that stand for your X3 working out for you? Is the top
come with the stand or is it something you added?

When the units arrive at Lathemaster I will dirve down and pick
them up (about 3.5hrs) I will check out the stand and bring one
home if it meets my requirements.

Your X3 looks pretty impressive on the Lathmaster stand.
Sorry that I could'nt give you a date. I guess we will just have to
sit by the phone awaining a call from the Lathmaster group.

Mike, W5YY

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall"
wrote:
the

| 376|373|2004-07-19 06:34:43|marvinstovall|Re: Slow Boat From China|

Mr. Moody,

Wish I was closer so I could pick mine up when it gets here. My X3 is
doing great. Got a Bijur mister for it and made a nozzel. It is a
pressure mister, not syphon and I really like it. I made a quill stop
for it also.

The stand came with the wooden top and is working out very nicely. I
have all the drawers full and it probably weighs more than the mill
now. I may try and get another from Bob to put the lathe on. Would
have to modify the top and I think if I do I will make it thicker
because it will have to hang over so much. Don't know, might work and
might not.

If you hear word on the lathes, give me a shout.

Leon

| 377|373|2004-07-19 19:00:35|uptoolateman|Re: Slow Boat From China|

You might ask Bob if he still sells the longer version of your
stand. In his Ebay auctions he used to have a bench that was around
5' long with 5 drawers and an open part with a shelf for $160 + $39
shipping. It looked like a nice bench and it had ball bearing drawer
slides.

Mike
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "marvinstovall" X3 is
stop
nicely. I
Would
and
to

| 378|373|2004-07-19 23:10:33|blackrifle|Re: Slow Boat From China|

Hey uptoolateman,

Thanks for the tip. I will check with Bob when I talk with him and
see if he still carries that particular item.

Mike

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman"
$39
drawer
a
the mill
might work
one
have

| 379|373|2004-07-19 23:57:39|marvinstovall|Re: Slow Boat From China|

Thanks Mike,
I'll ask Bob about that. Mine is a really nice stand. If the
bench is the same make and quality, it's hard to believe it is that
cheap.

Leon

| 380|380|2004-07-20 03:03:30|Bill Wilkins|Quill stop|

Leon,

Do you have some pictures you could share of your quill stop on the
X3. I have had my ideas on the same, and I am interested in how you
did yours. Some of the fun with these machines is making them better
with these kind of mods.

Owning these machines is great. A month ago I saved myself $500. by
fixing my lawn tractors steering bushing. Took 9 hours total.
Including cussing out the engineer from Toro/Wheelhourse. Also just
finished 4 flanges from 3" 6061 for a sneeze shield at my Smoothie
Shop. $1700 for an 8ft commercial one. Mine, less than $200.
including the Lexan, tubes, and hardware. Thats $2000. these simple
homeshop machines saved me. Thanks Lathemaster.

Regards, BGBill

| 381|380|2004-07-20 05:38:55|marvinstovall|Re: Quill stop|

Hi Bill,
Wow, that's really something with the bushing and sneeze shield.
I have spent most of my time fiddling with the machines too. So much
that I got two mills, a 7x12 lathe, 8x14 on order, band saw, two CNC
routers, a table saw and LOTS of tooling. Didn't have any of it a
year ago. Just went wild I guess. In fact I copied your mod for the
X axis stop on my Mini Mill (Thanks). Made some different ones for my
X3 because it has a slot in the front of the table.
I put some pics of the quill stop in the "Marv" folder in the
photo section. Can't wait to get my lathe.

Leon

| 382|362|2004-07-20 13:45:30|Lester Stocker|Re: New Mill|

Hello all,

New to the group, I have owned a taig lathe for about 3 years but
recently purchased some equipment from Bob. Did a little machining
right out of high school, but now I am trying to learn the basics all
over again. Just finished unloading my new #ZAY7045FG onto the shop
floor. WOW!!! is right, after looking at the mini mills from harbor
freight and grizzly I wanted something a little bigger that I could
grow into as I soon found I was limited on the taig. (8x14 on the way
as soon as the boat arrives 8( ...!) I don't think I will have any
problem! The pictures on Bob's web page are a little deceiving after
looking at the mini's for so long. This is one LARGE benchtop mill.
I now just need to figure out what all needs to be done to this thing
to get it cleaned and trued up before a can make the chips fly.
Looking foward to learning from you all.

Lester Stocker

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Trest" the

| 383|383|2004-07-21 15:44:48|John Labutski|Power head drive in pictures|

I just posted two pictures of my power head drive for my Lathemaster
zay7045fg mill. I used a bodine DC gear motor from Surplus Center
along with cog pulleys from Surplus center. It cost about a $100.00
dollars with switches and parts for my mosfet controller. I use 115
volts supplied from a bridge rectifier for rapids and 12 volts from
a battery for .001 stepping. I use the 12 volts for boring at very
slow feed rates. I also have a homemade mosfet controller to vary
the speed of the boring feed using 12 volts. I use a reversing
switch for up and down feeds on boring. I will at a relay setup
later for auto switching for up and down using micro switches. Just
the rapids for up and down alone make this mod worthwhile.

John Labutski Ocala Florida

| 384|362|2004-07-21 22:29:52|john labutski|Re: New Mill|

Your going to love it. Its as rigid as a full sized bridgeport. Its a bit of overkill if you don't do a lot of steel or castiron, but this is the last mill you will probably ever have to buy. I have added powerfeed for the head with rapids and slow travel (.001) steps for boring. Email me directly if you want to know what I have all done to this specific mill. I just got a small 30" brake/shear combo from HF for 184.00 delivered and will be making telescoping way covers for the vertical column as well as the x &y axis.

Have fun and get a six inch vise!

John Ocala Florida

email is kd6wd@...

| 385|383|2004-07-27 14:20:09|two4tom|Re: Power head drive in pictures|

Very nice set up you should market and sell them as a nice kit.Hint
hint.
Tom C.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" Lathemaster
$100.00
115
from
Just

| 386|383|2004-07-30 13:47:56|john labutski|Re: Power head drive in pictures|

Thanks for the comments. This however is so simple that no kit would be required. You just need a piece of aluminum, some bolts, power cord, a couple of switches and the following parts from Surplus Center.

5-1192 Bodine Gear motor

1-2211 cog belt and pulleys

22-1180 rectifier

This will give you power feed for up and down of the gearhead. I purchased a shorter cog belt locally so the pulley cover could be smaller. A 29.95 speed controller from surplus center would give you variable speed feed for boring and you could eliminate the rectifier.

It has been a fun project and I got my first taste of working with sheet metal for the belt guard. I am still working on additional bells and whistles for this setup. I will post pictures and descriptions when the final result looks a bit more professional. If there are enough guys interested in it, I will lay out a pc board for a homebrew controller that works using a simulated z axis crank. This way the guys could mill out a blank pc board and make their own controller with about 15 minutes of soldering iron time.

John

| 387|387|2004-08-10 20:14:22|mineralman55|New 8x14|

I picked up my 8x14 from Bob last night. I asked for it to have the
QCTP and the 5 inch 3-jaw installed, and it is a beaut! We did some
test cuts on aluminum and the finish quality is astounding--- far
better than I ever get with my 7x12. It's a lot heavier than the 195
lbs listed. About the only thing I'm worried about is thread cutting
at the 120 RPM low speed, as I'm used to turning the RPMs way down
with the speed control on the 7x12.

Now I have a garage full of Lathemaster stuff, as well as other
machines. I gotta get rid of the other stuff.

Larry
New Orleans

| 388|388|2004-08-10 22:30:23|Mark Taaffe|8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

Well I'm new here and a little puzzled. I have been
researching 9x20 lathes for a couple of months on and
off and had thought I had subscribed to the
appropriate interest group(s). As a matter of fact, I
had decided to go down to the local HF store and pick
one up this week. That is until the other day I
stumbled onto a link for this group. Now I get here
and everyone is talking about the 8x14 and basically
ignoring the 9x20. Is there a basic reason behind
this? I mean, the price isn't that much different and
they appear to have very similar specs. So why not
get more machine for not that much more money? Is the
tool post arrangement on these lathes of better
construction so I don't have to rebuild it before I
even use it? I do so like the ability to cut left
hand threads if needed, again, without modifying a new
machine.
Now I have to study that "X3" mill some more,
(another monkey wrench in my plans). Just wish the
table was bigger.

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage!
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

| 389|387|2004-08-10 23:52:06|john labutski|Re: New 8x14|

Congrats on getting the 8x14. The 8x14 is sure a sweety isn't it? I love mine. I have the 5C collet chuck for mine and it sure is nifty. The 8x14 is one of the few imports that's worth adding accessories for. Let me know what other stuff you plan to sell. I wish I had a 5 inch 3 jaw for mine.Also, did you get reversible or 2 piece jaws?

John

kd6wd@...

| 390|390|2004-08-11 02:41:40|blackrifle|Re: New 8X14|

RATS! I'm still waiting.

Mike

| 391|388|2004-08-11 03:00:17|john labutski|Re: 8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

If your talking about 9x20 lathes in general (HF, Enco, Grizzly, etc) here are my comments.

In my opinion the problem with the HF 9x20 (which I used to own) is the design of the saddle, cross slide and compound. The compound sits just too high for the width of the bed. Even with the 4 bolt plate chatter is still a problem on heavy cuts on the HF 9x20. The HF 9x20 would have been okay if they had made it an 8x20. The gear box for threading appears nice, but I always was swapping gears any way. Also the lathemaster chucks even though they were single piece were a heck of a lot better than what I got with the HF 9x20. The gibs on my HF 9x20 were poorly fit and looked like they were just sheared strips of sheet metal. I only kept the HF 9x20 for a couple of weeks after I got the 8x14. Even though I lost a few bucks on selling the HF 9x20, I haven't looked back since.

The only problem I had was a bum motor that went out after a couple of weeks and Lathemaster replaced it within 2 days after my call. In my opinion, the only step up from the 8x14 is a 12x36.

Some guys have the Lathemaster 9x20. I do not own, nor have I owned the lathemaster 9x20. So you other guys who have the Lathemaster 9x20 should comment.

I only use 3/8ths cutters so I did not get the modified compound. I might get it someday, but only to get the wedge type tool post that lathemaster sells.

Finally, I have yet to get any product from Lathemaster that I was not completely happy with. Robert Bertrand is very fussy on what he carries.Examples are the live centers, the 5C collet chuck, cutters, 3 &4 Jaw chucks, boring heads, extra gears etc. In other words, if I need something that is of good quality I order it from Lathemaster. The prices are great and they stand behind their products.

Fit and finish is on the 8x14 is at least as good or better than the other import brands. Plus the machines come ready to use.

John

| 392|387|2004-08-11 04:04:58|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: New 8x14|

Larry,

Just build a hand crank for the spindle for threading
operations, as many have done for the 9x20 lathe
(whose lowset rpm is 130) That is the short and simple
solution. Since you probably won't be threading
often this is what many have done. IF you thread
often replace the single phase motor with a DC (many
have used treadmill motors) or 3 ph./vfd setup and
then you will be able to slow the spindle to a crawl
with a dial or buttons, as you did with the 7x12.

Regards,

Gabe
--- mineralman55 <Larryo55@...
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| 393|387|2004-08-11 04:47:31|mineralman55|Re: New 8x14|

The 5 inch 3-jaw has two sets of jaws: one internal and one
external. I thought about the collet chuck, but figured the 3-jaw
was the better solution for me as what I'm doing doesn't require the
extraordinary accuracy of the collet chuck. Besides, I don't want
another set of collets to keep around :-)

This one has an American motor on it. It's very quiet and well
balanced.

I sold my Grizzly 7x12 tonight, and in the near future I'll probably
be selling my Craftsman lathe. Can't justify keeping that too.

I'll practice threads on the 8x14 as it currently is, but Bob is
working on a modification for the lathe which incorporates a
planetary gear within the train. He can cut the rpm down to ~65 with
that, and that would be awesome. He has it on one of his prototypes.

The qctp has a knurler, boring bar holder that is massive, cutoff
tool holder and two tool holders. The wedge type post is a major
improvement over the TS Engineering qctp piston type that I'd
installed on my 7x12. I'm really not knocking the 7x12, but this
8x14 is so much better the difference is night and day.

LarryO

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" I love mine. I have the 5C collet chuck for mine and it sure is
nifty. The 8x14 is one of the few imports that's worth adding
accessories for. Let me know what other stuff you plan to sell. I
wish I had a 5 inch 3 jaw for mine.Also, did you get reversible or 2
piece jaws?

| 394|388|2004-08-11 05:00:18|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: 8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

John-

I mostly agree with your assesment of the 9x20. The
compound is the low cost copy of the old EMCO Compact
8 design (a lathe that cost 3x more) and therefore
has the movement in it. Actually, the best way to fix
the compond is to turn the collar off make a heavy
plate and implement a design similar to what is found
on the southbend lathes. Most owners of the 9x20 just
mount a block on the crossslide, put a riser block and
mount an Aloris AXA sized toolpost, (only use the
compound when they have to). In all honesty, how
often do most people use the compound slide? It took
one machinist who owns a machine shop and deos precise
jobs on other CNC and manual lathes, 4 4-bolt plates
to get one that pretty eliminated the slop.
Tolerances for that item are pretty critical. The
9x20's suffer in that the Compact 8 was a 3-in-1
machine to begin with and the t-slots in the cross
slide were needed to hold the vise or workpiece down
when the mill head was mounted (in the middle of the
bed). Flash forward the the import 9x20, and the tee
slots are there, but no bracket on the bed for the
mill head, 1" larger swing, and lower quality od
workmanship and you get what is there. The design on
the 9x20 Compound is needed on 3-in-1 machines because
it doubled as mill table, and circular t-slots aren't
of any good for that purpose. The Lathemaster lathes
don't inherit that trait, and are based on traditional
single purpose lathe design, and therefore don't
suffer from that.

I own a 9x20 and do like some features that aren't on
the lathemaster. The t-sloted crosslide ranks pretty
high because it allows the use of a rear mounted
toolpost and those allows certain operations, such as
parting off, to be performed more easily. This allows
the the bit to be pulled into the work piece rather
than being "pushed" into the workpiece. This is one
reason taper attachements are desirable for other
lathes. I find the gearbox and the power apron good
for feeds. The worm feed prevents unnecessary wear on
the leadscrew threads and keeps them precise for
operations that require the precision of a half-nut
feed, while the gearbox allows an easy change of
feeds. For threading I see no advantage with the
gearbox as your monkeying with the gears in back
anyways.

I would guess the Lathemaster lathes also have their
own unique set of shortcomings. Keep in mind these
Lathemaster lathes are still, "low cost" import grade
bench lathes and are still not to the "SB 9A" or even
the "Emco C8" standard. If they were they would be
twice or thrice what they go for now. So in short you
replace one set of strengths and weaknesses with
another. Both varieties though seem to have mostly
strongpoints.

Ragards,

Gabe

If your talking about 9x20 lathes in general (HF,
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| 395|395|2004-08-11 05:23:47|dominic garafalo|Why did you purchase Lathemaster vs the competition?|

Hi, I'm a new member that is actively looking to purchase a 9 X 20 lathe.

I have been following the discussion on the yahoo 9x20 forum and in all honesty was close to ordering a Grizzley 9x20 then found Lathemaster's web site and this yahoo group.

Based on what I have read, Lathemaster seems to be a definite step up from the other 9X20 lathes.

I suspect many of you went through the very research and thought process regarding which lathe to purchase that I'm now going through.

I'd appreciate hearing the reasons that lead many of you to purchase a lathemaster lathe vs one from Grizzly, Jet, HF, Enco, etc.

Thank you. I appreciate and look forward to your input!

Dom

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| 396|395|2004-08-11 06:12:04|uptoolateman|Re: Why did you purchase Lathemaster vs the competition?|

I was also in the same boat at one time. I was looking for something
with more capacity than my Sherline and had looked at the 7x and the
9x lathes from all the usual vendors. After playing around with a few
7x lathes I ruled them out because of the rough finish and all drive
train and motor controller problems that people were always
complaining about on the e-groups. I also looked at a harbor freight
and jet 9x lathe they had a lot of play in the feeds and the slot in
the leadscrew for the feed worm looked like it would act like a tap
and destroy the half nuts over time.
I got a hold of a parts break down for the 8x lathe and noticed how
well designed it was compared to the 9x lathes. It has ball bearings
on the cross slide screw and a ball thrust on the tailstock screw,
the carriage seemed over built for a lathe its size and the feed
screws are larger diameter than the 9x. After reading a lot of
positive posts on the 8x14 I went ahead and got one and have been
very happy with it, it's pretty rigid for its size. The fit and
finish out of the crate was very good although I would recomend a
thorough cleaning mine had a lot of iron dust and some core sand in a
few places. The cross slide and carriage only had .002 backlash out
of the crate and have not changed yet.
I'm not saying there aren't any short comings to this lathe as I
feel the 2 screws that hold the compound down are a little smallish
for the job but the comound itself is very rigid, the 12tpi carriage
lead screw only provides approximate metric threads and installing
the feed reverse gear for left hand threads can be a little tiresome
but at least it's supplied with a means to do left hand threads.
Sorry for rambling on
Mike...

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, dominic garafalo
all honesty was close to ordering a Grizzley 9x20 then found
Lathemaster's web site and this yahoo group.
up from the other 9X20 lathes.
process regarding which lathe to purchase that I'm now going through.
purchase a lathemaster lathe vs one from Grizzly, Jet, HF, Enco, etc.

| 397|388|2004-08-11 06:18:36|uptoolateman|Re: 8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

Mark,
As far as the X3 goes the last shipment Bob got the tables are
longer than the early machines they are now 21" long and mine has 17"
travel maybe a little more. I've been happy with the mill so far I
like the dovetail column it's rigid and you don't lose your alignment
if the head has to be raised for tool changng which is a problem on
the round column mills. Bob also sells a larger mill that people seem
to like but it was a little out of my size/price range.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, Mark Taaffe

| 398|398|2004-08-11 12:06:27|Lester Stocker|Shipment of 8x14's arrive?|

with all this talk of picking up a new 8x14 I was excited to get home
to check my email, Alas nothing from Bob. Does anyone know if the
shipment of 8x14's has arrived?

Lester

| 399|398|2004-08-11 13:38:31|mineralman55|Re: Shipment of 8x14's arrive?|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Lester Stocker"
I seem to recall Bob saying they're being held up by Customs on the
west coast.

Larry

| 400|387|2004-08-11 13:38:49|Green, James|Re: New 8x14|

I don't think Lathe Master offers a 5" 3 jaw chuck with 2 piece jaws?????
Believe you would have to obtain a Bison chuck for that feature.........

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 2004 5:52 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] New 8x14

Congrats on getting the 8x14. The 8x14 is sure a sweety isn't it? I love
mine. I have the 5C collet chuck for mine and it sure is nifty. The 8x14 is
one of the few imports that's worth adding accessories for. Let me know what
other stuff you plan to sell. I wish I had a 5 inch 3 jaw for mine.Also,
did you get reversible or 2 piece jaws?

| 401|401|2004-08-11 13:40:59|john labutski|Re: New 8x14 and threading|

Your comment on threading rpms, got my interest up. So I rube goldberged a setup for threading drive. I had purchased 6 cogbelt pulley setups from Surplus center about a month ago (Item# 1-2211 ). They were only $8.95 for two pulleys and the cog belt. I used one set for driving the head up and down on my 7045 fg Lathemaster mill. Your comments about rpm triggered my creative juices. So yesterday I rigged up a dc gear motor and the cog belt pulleys to drive the spindle directly. Just use the split tubing setup that the guys use for engaging a hand crank for manual drive for threading and attach a pulley to it. . This setup allows you to thread between about 25 and 50 rpm. The gearmotor I used has about 140 inch pounds of torque and I used the big pulley on the spindle and the small pulley on the gearmotor. This gave me over 250 inch pounds of torque. Since I was holding the gearmotor in a bench vise, I didn't push threading with super heavy cuts but it worked smooth as the dickens. The largest stock I threaded was 1/2 inch crs. I just used a $69.00 DC gear motor, a $5.00 bridge rectifier, a micro switch $1.00, a $3.00 reversing switch and some wire. All of these items were purchased from Surplus center. The micro switch was wired in line with the ac coming in. This setup gives you almost instantaneous stopping when approaching a shoulder. When I finish off all the bells and whistles on the mill I am going to get this setup refined so its a 15 second setup to slip it into the lathe spindle and lock it in. All of it including the control box should be able to be mounted on a single 5 inch by 17 inch piece of quarter inch stock. The microswitch setup allows you to get really close to a shoulder without hitting it. I have always enjoyed DC gear motor projects for add ons to my equipment. I recently purchased an X3 DC motor from Bob. I plan on trying it on the 8x14 for variable speed. It looks like its built a heck of a lot better than the treadmill motors that many of the guys use on the 9x20 machines for variable speed. I have been playing in this hobby for over 30 years and I must say that the Lathemaster machines are super for adding your own goodies. Because the basic Lathemaster machines are rock solid and of decent quality, they are well worth enhancing with your personally designed features. I will post pictures on the DRO addons to the 7045 as soon as I finish the z axis installation on the column.

John

| 402|388|2004-08-12 06:57:05|Mark Taaffe|Re: 8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

MIke,

Thanks for the info on the new X3 table. If you don't mind, what is
the effective usable length (end to end of the T-Slots) on the new
table so I can get a picture if it will fill my needs.
I had been looking at some of the other dovetail column machines,
but was having a real problem swallowing the price and size (weight)of
the units. I am placing this in a wooden floor shop and with all the
other "stuff" already in there, I was beginning to get concerned for
the loading. At about 300 pounds, it will not be a problem.

Mark

| 403|403|2004-08-12 07:00:46|Mark Taaffe|8 x 14 lathe chuck attachment method|

I have been reading the posts here and the specs at the Lathemaster
web site but haven't seen any reference to the method of attaching the
lathe chuck to the spindle. Is it threaded like the 9x20's at
1-1/2"-8 or some other system. I was interested in optional chucks
for the machine.

| 404|388|2004-08-12 09:05:03|uptoolateman|Re: 8x14 over 9x20 Why?|

Mark,
The Tee slots are 19" long and there is 3/4" at each end open to
insert tee nuts, the table is 6 1/4 wide. The X3 is closer to 400lbs
I think the shipping weight on my shipping papers was 453lbs.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Taaffe" of
the
wrote:
17"
I
alignment
on
seem

| 405|403|2004-08-12 09:11:02|uptoolateman|Re: 8 x 14 lathe chuck attachment method|

The chucks are mounted onto a flange on the spindle and held in place
by 3 socket cap screws, changing chucks is a little time consuming
because there isn't a lot of room between the back of the spindle and
the headstock. A shortened allen wrench is supplied with the lathe to
get in between.
It wouldn't be hard to make chuck adapters to fit different chucks
and I think bob carries some adapters for other chucks that he sells.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Taaffe" the

| 406|406|2004-08-12 17:07:27|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|big drill holder|

Hi guys, I posted a few pics of a way to use bigger MT shank drill
bits in a lathe with a #2MT tailstock. I use back gear on my SB. Pics
are under aametalmaster...Bob

| 407|407|2004-08-13 02:59:30|Bill Wilkins|Removal of Chucks|

Hello All,

Most tasks can be done in short order as long as you have the right
tools. Using the simple tool I made for the allen head chuck bolts
will remove and replace the chuck in under 2 minutes. Check it out in
my picture folder. I have read where some with the HF, Griz 9X20's
have trouble getting the chuck/flange off. (screws off) Use of the
lathe tightens the flange on the spindle.

The more I get into this home shop machining the more I'm glad I have
the Lathemaster 8x14. It is well designed and a workhorse.

For the newbe, check out Dan Kautz's web site for machine reviews. I
think it is in the Links.

Nice seeing all the posts.

Best to All, BGBill

| 408|407|2004-08-13 09:58:44|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: Removal of Chucks|

That is the case with all lathes with thread on
chucks, as the machine runs, they tighten, (except
when run in reverse where they can loosen to do some
serious damage). Camlock is nice because it doesn't
use loosen like that and is much more secure. Most
American lathes traditionally, though, had threaded
spindles. Nothing is wrong with a theaded spindle,
however, so never let that be the sole factor when
chosing a lathe.
Threaded spindles rely heavily on the mating surfaces
on the spindle and back plate, because if they are off
or there is dirt or grit there, the chuck won't seat
accurately and part will have runnout equivalent to
the irreuglarity on the mating surfaces. All lathe
spindes and backplates, no matter the spindle type,
should be cleaned with a rag before swappaing and
mounting a chuck. Makes work more accurate.

-Gabe

--- Bill Wilkins <bgwilkin@...
__________________________________
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| 409|403|2004-08-15 14:34:15|cba_melbourne|Re: 8 x 14 lathe chuck attachment method|

Mike, the 3 fastener method is actually a simplified camlock mount.
It appears to be a problem for people born with large fingers or for
such with medical hand problems like rheumatics. For most users such
chuck change is as fast and unproblematic as on a lathe with threaded
spindle nose.

On the other hand, a lathe with 3 fastener mount can be run safely
under full load forward AND backwards. Very useful if one mounts a
parting blade upside down for greater rigidity. Or when threading to
a shoulder: with spindle running in reverse and tool upside down,
there is no danger of collision cause the tool moves away from the
spindle. No need for a rear mounted toolpost. Also, if one upgrades
the lathe to VFD variable speed, no dandger of a threaded chuck
coming loose and travelling spinning across the workshop when
applying a fast spindle brake setting. And also, there is no need for
a locking grubscrew as on those threaded mounts that allow for
limited light loads in reverse - this locking screw is often the
cause for excessive chuck runout if the threaded chuck registration
flange and thread is not finished sufficiently accurate.

I am surprised the chuck on this lathe is mounted by socket cap
screws. I thought the traditional method was three threaded studs
mounted and loctited to the chuck, and three nuts to fix them to the
spindle nose. With this method, usually a special extra thin ring
spanner is supplied. In any case, it would be very easy to convert
from one method to another. I like the stud/nut method best, because
any thread wear would not be in the expensive chuck, but only in the
cheap and easy to replace stud/nut. Chris

| 410|403|2004-08-16 19:01:51|Mark Taaffe|Re: 8 x 14 lathe chuck attachment method|

What is the method of registration used in these chuck to spindle m
ounts. Is it a taper or cylindrical pilot boss?

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne"
| 411|411|2004-08-16 19:16:16|mineralman55|Lathe Mounting Question|

When mounting the 8x14 to a bench does anyone discard the drip pan
and just bolt the lathe to the bench directly? My lathe rocks back
and forth a bit when I put in on the drip pan (I haven't bolted it
down yet.) Is this normal?

Larry

| 412|411|2004-08-16 19:52:08|Alan Trest|Re: Lathe Mounting Question|

I would not bolt directly to the bench Larry, messy to clean up. You
might fabricate another drip pan or You might try a ball peen
hammer in the mounting hole. Just put the ball in the hole and hit
it to slightly concave the hole. Thats what I did and then mounted
the lathe. Worked great for me.

Alan T.

| 413|411|2004-08-16 19:54:21|Green, James|Re: Lathe Mounting Question|

Don't discard the drip pan.... I waited almost 4 - 5 months for my
replacement pan.... :) Make sure you don't have any swarf or trash under
the feet on the lathe. Your problem will disappear when you drill some
holes and bolt it down. Take some measurements of the bolt hole spacing on
the lathe and drip pan!!!! I had to open up the tail stock hole on the drip
pan to 3/4" so it would line up. Of course I didn't discover this until I
had the lathe sitting on the pan and my paid moving crew have gone home.....

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 1:15 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Lathe Mounting Question

When mounting the 8x14 to a bench does anyone discard the drip pan
and just bolt the lathe to the bench directly? My lathe rocks back
and forth a bit when I put in on the drip pan (I haven't bolted it
down yet.) Is this normal?

Larry

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I agree with James, just bolt it down on top of the drip pan. This will do three things.

1) it will eliminate any vibration.

2) If you use your 4 jaw chuck, it will keep the lathe on the bench instead of it walking off the bench and falling on the floor.

3) It helps collect swarf and keeps cutting oils contained.

The 8x14 has a very rigid bed for a lathe its size. Since the three bolts which hold it down are in line rather than on the feet of the bed, its doubtful that you will torque the bed out of wack. as is possible on a 7x10 If adjustment is needed, a piece of shim stock on a single leg is all that may be needed. However, based on my experience, its doubtful that this would ever be required. I have had my 8x14 bolted on 3 different benches in the time that I have had it and have had zero problems. Also wooden benches or light gauge metal benches yield to the lathe bed rather than torque the bed.

John

| 415|415|2004-08-17 01:40:14|coollx2001|Contacting Lathemaster|

I have sent two e-mails to sales@... over the last week
inquiring about lathe availability and cost to ship and have not
received any response?

Is it normal for lathemaster to respond very slowly? Has anyone lathe
experienced no response over the last week.

A week ago I was enthusiastic about the idea of purchasing a lathe
from Lathemaster, now I'm not sure.

Is there some other way I should try to contact them other than by e-
mail since they don't post a telephone number?

Thanks.

| 416|415|2004-08-17 01:42:53|Alan Trest|Re: Contacting Lathemaster|

Bob could be out of town.

Phone# 225-377-7001

Alan T.

I would not get too upset if he is hard to get in touch with. He
does have another job and may be tied up with that or he may be out
of town on business.

Alan T.

lathe
e-

| 417|417|2004-08-17 02:57:57|Bill Wilkins|Lathe Mounting|

I put 1/4 inch thick rubber pads just larger than the headstock and
tailstock bases under the lathe setting on the drip pan and bolted
down with 1/2 inch bolts. Definately use the drip pan. Had to enlarge
one of the holes also. My present bench is two 3/4 inch pieces of ply.
I have no problem with vibrations, and I think the lathe runs quieter
with the rubber pads.

Just imagine getting 100 emails a day, 50 of them were definate
sales, and 50 were just questions. I would act on the ones making me
money first, and answer the questions when I got the time. (and the
next day 100 more)

The 8x14 will be worth your wait. I waited four months for my X3.

BGBill

| 418|411|2004-08-17 03:28:31|mineralman55|Re: Lathe Mounting Question|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" What three bolts? I only see two bolt holes in the drip pan, and I
haven't lifted the lathe to see underneath the fee.

Larry

| 419|411|2004-08-17 14:14:48|Green, James|Re: Lathe Mounting Question|

There should be two hole under the head stock and one hole under the tail
stock.

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 9:28 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Lathe Mounting Question

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" What three bolts? I only see two bolt holes in the drip pan, and I
haven't lifted the lathe to see underneath the fee.

Larry

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--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" the tail
Interesting. There are two holes in the foot underneath the headstock
end, but not two holes in the pan.

It doesn't matter. I fashioned two bars out of 1.5" x 6", 1/8" thick
HRS with a 7/16" hole centered in each. Then bolted the lathe to the
benchtop using two 3/8 x 16 bolts with the HRS bars bolted underneath
the bench top. Works great, no more rocking.

While tuning up the lathe, I noticed the compound wasn't particularly
stable and had to tighten down the gibs considerably. This made it
tough to crank the compound. So I made a small angled handle that
slips over the two compound handles enabling me to smoothly crank the
compound for taper turning. Works great.

Larry

| 421|411|2004-08-18 15:24:11|Green, James|Re: Lathe Mounting Question|

I am not too happy about the compound slide either....... Last week I
spent about an hour lapping the compound with Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish.
The gib is about 90 - 95 % lapped and now works quite a bit better on
turning tapers. Still need to make a small angled like you did.......

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 18, 2004 8:15 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Lathe Mounting Question

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" the tail
Interesting. There are two holes in the foot underneath the headstock
end, but not two holes in the pan.

It doesn't matter. I fashioned two bars out of 1.5" x 6", 1/8" thick
HRS with a 7/16" hole centered in each. Then bolted the lathe to the
benchtop using two 3/8 x 16 bolts with the HRS bars bolted underneath
the bench top. Works great, no more rocking.

While tuning up the lathe, I noticed the compound wasn't particularly
stable and had to tighten down the gibs considerably. This made it
tough to crank the compound. So I made a small angled handle that
slips over the two compound handles enabling me to smoothly crank the
compound for taper turning. Works great.

Larry

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--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
Aluminum Polish.
on
did.......
I'll have to borrow the wife's digital camera and figure out how to
post a picture.

| 423|423|2004-08-19 15:04:08|rindtoerte|new member intro|

Hi everyone,

My name is Eamonn Rogers, I live in Ireland. I am a novice machinist,
like most, my exposure to lathes was way back in school.

I have been reading up for a long time about lathes from many sources
on the net and I was trying to decide which lathe to get, which wasnt
easy ! 7 X 12, 9 X 20, 3-in-1 and all of the individual variables of
those machines. I had nothing specific in mind that I wanted to make
with the lathe, as I am interested in all sorts of mechanical things,
so I wanted one that could cope with reasonably large stock, but
still be affordable.
I had made my mind up to get a 9 X 20 lathe from Chester, a company
in the UK, but being in Ireland, I had to go via one of their dealers
here. One is in Northern Ireland and the other in the South. I soon
gave up on the Southern dealer when his quote for a 9X20 was more
than the northern dealer before adding on VAT at 21% !!!
Anyway, I tried to order a 9X20 but they said that the next delivery
would be 6-8 weeks, but they had another similar lathe in stock,
which is called the DB8. I checked around and found that it looked to
be the same as the lathemaster 8 X 14, except that they had changed
the spec a little while back from a 320mm bed to a 400mm bed, so it
is actually an 8X17 or so. On the chester broschure the photo of the
original lathe shows a cq6121x320, which is a similar number to the
lathemaster.
It came with the same accessories as the lathemaster too, ie steadies
3 & 4 jaw chuck, faceplate, centres etc, so i went for it.
The dealer ( Dunn & co ) threw in a 13mm chuck and MT2 arbor at no
extra. I had to go and collect it, which is about 2 hours each way
from Donegal to County Down, with my trailer.
Now you guys in the states are really spoilt when it comes to buying
this sort of stuff, my lathe cost 700 UK pounds, which is about 1050
euro + another 20% to convert to US$, so about $1250 !
When I got it home I unpacked it and stripped it down for cleaning
and it is exactly like the two strip-down articles by two of your
members, all the parts are the same, except for one detail, mine is a
metric machine and it doesnt have the thread indicator box.
I only found this group by accident as I was revisiting the 9X20
group the other day and saw a posting that this group existed.
I hope you dont mind that I dont have a "genuine" Lathemaster and I
dont have anything to do with "bob".

| 424|423|2004-08-20 02:16:32|Alan Trest|Re: new member intro|

Hi Eamonn,

We still consider you "Family". Welcome to the group.
Happy to have a brother toolhead across the Pond.
You will find us to be very laid back so just jump right in.

Alan T.

machinist,
sources
wasnt
of
make
things,
dealers
delivery
to
the
steadies
buying
1050
a

| 425|403|2004-08-20 06:53:25|cba_melbourne|Re: 8 x 14 lathe chuck attachment method|

It is a simple short taper, male on the spindle and female on the
chuck body. Very much like on a camloc or D1 mount, but on a lathe
less than 9" swing its usually smaller than the smallest camloc
standard, and thus proprietary to the lathe maker. Imagine the taper
to be about 5mm long and about 10mm larger in diameter than the Morse
taper bore at the spindle nose. Chris

| 426|423|2004-08-20 20:42:42|John Labutski|Re: new member intro|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rindtoerte" machinist,

Well, I also have to say welcome to the group. Many of us enjoy
ownership of the 8x14 as well. You will find it a slick design and
capable of excellent work. Some of us here in the states are adding
bells and whistles (features to it). I work mostly in steel and cast
iron and it is one very ridgid little lathe. I previously had a 9x20
and prefer the 8x14. Take care and post some pictures when you get a
chance.

Take Care
John Ocala Florida

| 427|423|2004-08-20 21:53:28|rindtoerte|Re: new member intro|

Hi Alan,
Thanks for the welcome !
Now might be a good time to post my first question.

What is an acceptable amount of backlash on the cross-slide, and how
can it be adjusted ? Mine appears to be a bit sloppy. I am writing
this at work so I dont have the exact details, but there is about a
half inch of play at the circumference of the wheel, thats about the
simplest way i can put it without counting the number of segments !

A second question has just come to mind ! My lathe came with 10mm
tools, which would be about 3/8". These are all too low and I have to
raise them up with a suitable piece of steel strap. Are 1/2" - 13mm
tools the correct size or would they be too high ? Standard 4-way
post here.

thanks

Eamonn

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Trest" company
soon
looked
changed
it
the
no
way
cleaning
is
I

| 428|428|2004-08-23 17:29:24|mineralman55|Idler Tensioner|

Should the idler/tensioner for the drive mechanism be on the inside
of the belt pressing out, or on the outside pressing in? What's the
accepted practice? I've tried it both ways, and didn't notice any
particular difference.

Also, anyone have a replacement recommendation for the drive belt, or
just take it down to the local auto parts store? I'd like to have an
extra on hand.

Larry
New Orleans

| 429|428|2004-08-23 18:03:25|Green, James|Re: Idler Tensioner|

I leave my tensioner on the inside so I can move the belt quicker from one
pulley to the other.... Never thought about accepted practice?????

Go ahead and order one from Bob to save on the hassles.. Bob had stated in
the past that he has several of them on hand...... I would order one of
those semi-clear colored cogged belts too.

Does anybody know the actual pitch of the leadscrew????

James Green
North Carolina

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2004 11:28 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Idler Tensioner

Should the idler/tensioner for the drive mechanism be on the inside
of the belt pressing out, or on the outside pressing in? What's the
accepted practice? I've tried it both ways, and didn't notice any
particular difference.

Also, anyone have a replacement recommendation for the drive belt, or
just take it down to the local auto parts store? I'd like to have an
extra on hand.

Larry
New Orleans

| 430|428|2004-08-24 04:22:03|mineralman55|Re: Idler Tensioner|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
I just went out to the garage and counted mine, it's 12 threads/inch.

Now this gets confusing.

Checking the manual, on page two it lists two different leadscrew
dimensions:(1) Metric thread: 0.4-3mm Number of pitch: 12;
(2) Imperial thread 10-44/25.4mm, Number of pitch: 8. I'm not sure
what these mean.

Now, on page 5, item 9 lists a carraige leadscrew with a modular
pitch of 1/2-20 left hand thread. What does this mean? Do I have
a "metric" leadscrew?

Larry

| 431|431|2004-08-24 23:36:24|Bill Wilkins|Belt tensioner idler|

I believe that the roller should ride on the widest part of the belt,
pushing the belt into the pulleys. When using the direct drive pulley
the roller will be on the top of the belt. When using the belt driven
pulley the roller will be on the bottom. I just snug the belt tight
by hand, sometimes the belt needs to slip, Aye! The roller spins
pretty fast sometimes, keep it lubicated.

Regards, BGBill

| 432|432|2004-08-26 05:10:22|Pete Strait|Another New member|

Just wanted to say Hi!, I currently am running Lathemaster Equipment
and am very happy. Have the 8x14 and the X3 as well as the bench top
band saw. All is well in my world just need more time and experience.

Very happy to find this board. And yes Bob Bertrand is great to work
with!

Pete Strait

| 433|433|2004-08-26 05:35:00|x86ricer|Anyone Live in Knoxville, TN that could show their lathe?|

I would love to see and hear one of the mini-lathes run.

Ben

| 434|434|2004-08-26 13:58:00|Green, James|Re: Anyone Live in Knoxville, TN that could show th eir lathe?|

You can see a 8x14 in action if you want to make a 4.5 hour trip to
Winston-Salem, NC.......

James

-----Original Message-----
From: x86ricer [mailto:jerryriged@...]
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2004 11:35 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Anyone Live in Knoxville, TN that could show their
lathe?

I would love to see and hear one of the mini-lathes run.

Ben

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--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "x86ricer" About 6 hrs. to the New Orleans area. For that matter, you could then
drop over to Bob's in Baton Rouge (~ one hour west) and pick one up!

Larry

| 436|433|2004-08-28 07:59:42|cooltool49|Re: Anyone Live in Knoxville, TN that could show their lathe?|

If ya just gotta see one, I have a 9x20 that I would love to
demonstrate.
I live in Anchorage, Alaska (south end of town -- closer to America,
don't you know?).
Jerry

| 437|437|2004-09-01 10:19:47|Lester Stocker|8x14 on the way|

Bob contacted me today and informed me my lathe was shipping!A long
wait now over I hope I like it as much as the ZAY7045FG mill I got
from him.
Lester

| 438|438|2004-09-14 02:26:15|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|200 member's|

Hi gang, I see we made it to 200 member's. That's 175 more than I
ever thought. Any way happy chip making...Bob

| 439|437|2004-09-18 03:04:27|marvinstovall|Re: 8x14 on the way|

Lester,
You will not be dissappointed. I picked mine up from Bob early
Wednesday morning. Drove to Florida with it just beating IVAN across
Pensacola by a couple hours. The lathe is really something. I
started cleaning it today but need to beef up my bench before I mount
it. It is bigger than I thought. Even though it is only a couple
inches bigger in capacity than the 7x12, it is 10 times the machine.
It will compliment my X3 mill nicely. Also when I am ready to upgrade
the X3, it will be a ZAY7045FG from Bob. He is such a super guy to
deal with, unbelievable. Thanks again Bob. The only thing I regret
is not having more time to visit with him. I had to wait a long time
for mine also but after seeing it and meeting Bob, it is worth waiting
twice that long.

Marv

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Lester Stocker"
| 440|440|2004-09-19 06:03:11|x86ricer|May be an intresting Mod for the X3 Mill...|

This company appears to have a kit to make the head on the X3 swivel.
Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bmd-25.htm

| 441|438|2004-09-19 06:49:54|REBEL|Re: 200 member's|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"
started them.

Now I have more than 4,000 members total on all my groups.I think you
are a member on the biggest part of my groups as are several other
members here.
It will keep growing too.Before you know it you'll have lots more
members.Some groups take a while to grow and take off real good.

GB
Bill Collins

| 442|440|2004-09-20 13:34:18|Green, James|Re: May be an intresting Mod for the X3 Mill...|

Has anybody tried one of these kits?????

James

-----Original Message-----
From: x86ricer [mailto:jerryriged@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 12:03 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] May be an intresting Mod for the X3 Mill...

This company appears to have a kit to make the head on the X3 swivel.
Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bmd-25.htm
<http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bmd-25.htm| 443|443|2004-09-20 19:17:05|mineralman55|Starret Bandsaw Blades|

I was at Lowe's recently, and they have a number of things on
unbelievable clearance. I bought some 14TPI and 22TPI bimetal blades
for the Lathemaster bandsaw. $2.97 each!

Larry
New Orleans

| 444|26|2004-09-22 01:02:37|stephtscott|8x14|

Hi group i have a 8x14 lathemaster and it started switching on and
off ,I think the capacitors have gone bad.
Dose any body have any input on my problem ,if so please share.
And where i might get any capacitors for it.

Thanks Stephan

| 445|26|2004-09-22 01:05:31|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: 8x14|

Stephan, I would call Bob @225-377-7001
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "stephtscott"

| 446|26|2004-09-22 01:33:25|Pete Strait|Re: 8x14|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "stephtscott" Thanks Stephan
Stephan:

Are you using the forward and reverse switch to start your lathe? If
so I to have had the same problem and it proved to be the drum
switch itself, so you might want to quit using it and use the
main switch and see if that works.

Pete Strait

| 447|26|2004-09-22 07:43:07|stephtscott|Re: 8x14|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Pete Strait" If
i will check it.

Thanks Stephan

| 448|448|2004-09-28 08:03:32|Chuck Downing|6 X 14 Change Gears|

Hi all, I'm new to the group and I hope that someone here can help me
with my problem. I have one of Roberts 8 X 14 lathes and I need to
machine some .75m threads. Needless to say, the threading table
dosn't cover this thread. The manual that came with the lathe dosn't
make any sense to me. Robert didn't know and advised me to try this
group. Does any one know where I can obtain simple instructions for
computing what gears are needed to cut the .75m and 28" threads.
Thanks in advance. Chuck

| 449|449|2004-09-30 14:43:12|mineralman55|Threading|

I finally got around to threading on the 8x14. I began by cutting
some 1/2" 10TPI. I found the lowest rpm was not too tough to handle,
although I'd still prefer something slower than 120 rpm. The power of
the American motor is wonderful. Doing this same thread on my 7x12
demanded only 0.002-0.004" depth of cuts after the first two passes,
but the 8x14 easily did 0.010" depths of cuts right up to the final
0.001" finishing pass.

I couldn't quite figure out how to properly adjust the gear sets at
first, but two quick calls to Bob at Lathemaster fixed that (I always
do things the hard way.) I'll try to get my wife's digital camera,
and document "threading on the 8x14 for dummies" and post it.

After getting things set for 10TPI, I did notice an almost
impercetible wobble in the 72 tooth gear when running. I checked the
gear and it is flat. Should there be any wobble on the gear train at
all?

A final question for the group. Is there any problem to tilting the
banjo forward so the lead screw is disconnected from the spindle when
carraige feed is not required?

Larry
New Orleans

| 450|449|2004-09-30 14:48:56|mineralman55|Re: Threading|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" Sorry, I meant 3/4-10 threads.

| 451|449|2004-09-30 15:10:31|Green, James|Re: Threading|

Doesn't the lead screw go through the banjo????

What was Bob's way of adjusting the gear sets???? Seems like it takes me a
while to get that done......

Bob is working on a pulley system to slow down the lathe to the area of 65
RPM. Per Bob, the prototype is done. Curious when he will have this pulley
system in production or as a add on kit for us????

James Green
NC

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 8:43 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Threading

I finally got around to threading on the 8x14. I began by cutting
some 1/2" 10TPI. I found the lowest rpm was not too tough to handle,
although I'd still prefer something slower than 120 rpm. The power of
the American motor is wonderful. Doing this same thread on my 7x12
demanded only 0.002-0.004" depth of cuts after the first two passes,
but the 8x14 easily did 0.010" depths of cuts right up to the final
0.001" finishing pass.

I couldn't quite figure out how to properly adjust the gear sets at
first, but two quick calls to Bob at Lathemaster fixed that (I always
do things the hard way.) I'll try to get my wife's digital camera,
and document "threading on the 8x14 for dummies" and post it.

After getting things set for 10TPI, I did notice an almost
impercetible wobble in the 72 tooth gear when running. I checked the
gear and it is flat. Should there be any wobble on the gear train at
all?

A final question for the group. Is there any problem to tilting the
banjo forward so the lead screw is disconnected from the spindle when
carraige feed is not required?

Larry
New Orleans

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--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" takes me a
area of 65
this pulley
Yes, the lead screw goes through the bottom of the banjo, but if the
banjo is tilted forward, the top gear will not contact the 40 tooth
gear off the spindle, hence, no lead screw rotation.

Bob is making progress on the planetary system. I'm looking forward
to it.

Also, he said he's thinking of getting a few of the 30 inch lathes
which are the 8x14's bigger brother. I've seen the one in his shop
and it looks great. Very large spindle hole (MT4 maybe?) and big
enough to really do gunsmithing.

Larry

| 453|453|2004-09-30 18:30:27|Ilya|Yet another new member|

I just wanted to introduce myself and say hello.

Hello.

I'm Ilya. I live near Boston, MA. I am not yet an owner of an 8x14,
although I'm already half-way through building a work-bench sturdy
enough to support it. I will likely order an 8x14 this winter.

I found out about the 8x14 from the mini-lathe.com's "Versions" page;
then found more info on it elsewhere on the web. Finding this group
and diggin' around the past messages clenched my decision to get this
particular lathe.

I am a software engineer on week-days; at nights and on weekends I am
an amateur motorcycle racer and a home hobby-machinist. Besides an
obligatory plethora of various small power-tools, I also have a
Grizzly G1006 milling machine with a few accessories. I've been
procrastinating getting a lathe for too long. Finally, I did the math
and realized that just turning out foot-pegs for my race bike would
pay for the lathe over mere two racing seasons (unless I stop
crashing, which is not very likely. :-))

I don't expect to do production runs of anything - just support my
racing hobby, make an occasional accessory for my street bikes, and
maybe build a small model engine or two.

One question I have for the group is this. I feel more comfortable
working in metric system, and expect most of my work to be in it. I
would like to know that I have the option of ordering metric
leadscrews and dials. Has anyone done such conversion on their 8x14
lathe? Are metric kits available from lathemaster or other suppliers?
Will 7x?? metric kits fit the 8x14?

(BTW, I e-mailed Bob with this question, but got no response. I heard
someone else mention that he might be out of town, but I figured it
would be worth a shot to ask the group before I bother Bob again with
a phone call.)

Thanks!
--
Ilya

| 454|453|2004-09-30 18:37:50|Green, James|Re: Yet another new member|

Good decision on 8 x 14. Bob is thinking about importing the 30" lathes.
Basically the big brother of the 8 x 14. Something to think about????

The metric kits from the 7x lathe won't fit the 8 x 14. The cross slide
lead screw on the 8 x14 are bigger in diameter and longer in length......

Call Bob and see what tricks he has up his sleeves. Maybe he could order
the lathe with metric dials and lead screws from the factory. I mean they
do come from overseas..... :)

James Green

-----Original Message-----
From: Ilya [mailto:iillyyaa@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 10:04 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Yet another new member

I just wanted to introduce myself and say hello.

Hello.

I'm Ilya. I live near Boston, MA. I am not yet an owner of an 8x14,
although I'm already half-way through building a work-bench sturdy
enough to support it. I will likely order an 8x14 this winter.

I found out about the 8x14 from the mini-lathe.com's "Versions" page;
then found more info on it elsewhere on the web. Finding this group
and diggin' around the past messages clenched my decision to get this
particular lathe.

I am a software engineer on week-days; at nights and on weekends I am
an amateur motorcycle racer and a home hobby-machinist. Besides an
obligatory plethora of various small power-tools, I also have a
Grizzly G1006 milling machine with a few accessories. I've been
procrastinating getting a lathe for too long. Finally, I did the math
and realized that just turning out foot-pegs for my race bike would
pay for the lathe over mere two racing seasons (unless I stop
crashing, which is not very likely. :-))

I don't expect to do production runs of anything - just support my
racing hobby, make an occasional accessory for my street bikes, and
maybe build a small model engine or two.

One question I have for the group is this. I feel more comfortable
working in metric system, and expect most of my work to be in it. I
would like to know that I have the option of ordering metric
leadscrews and dials. Has anyone done such conversion on their 8x14
lathe? Are metric kits available from lathemaster or other suppliers?
Will 7x?? metric kits fit the 8x14?

(BTW, I e-mailed Bob with this question, but got no response. I heard
someone else mention that he might be out of town, but I figured it
would be worth a shot to ask the group before I bother Bob again with
a phone call.)

Thanks!
--
Ilya

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I have been waiting on Bob since June 11 on the availability of
either it's 8 X 14 or 9 X20 lathes to become available.

Now I really want the 9 " 20

Any user here got direct insight on when Bob will receive his
shipment?

Best regards from Montreal, Canada

frenhnew2001

| 456|455|2004-10-01 01:19:13|Tim|Re: Waiting on Lathemaster's Lathe|

I got email last week from Bob stating that he had the 8x14 lathe in
stock, and the X3 mills should arrive in a few weeks.

| 457|455|2004-10-01 13:18:39|Green, James|Re: Waiting on Lathemaster's Lathe|

I am also waiting on the milling attachement for the 8 x 14.......

James

-----Original Message-----
From: frenchnew2001 [mailto:frenchnew2001@...]
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 2:37 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Waiting on Lathemaster's Lathe

I have been waiting on Bob since June 11 on the availability of
either it's 8 X 14 or 9 X20 lathes to become available.

Now I really want the 9 " 20

Any user here got direct insight on when Bob will receive his
shipment?

Best regards from Montreal, Canada

frenhnew2001

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Any idea on how to get a 13 TPI from our 8 x 14???

James

| 459|449|2004-10-01 14:41:28|mineralman55|Re: Threading|

Okay, here's a very specific question on threading. If I'm cutting
3/4-10 threads and I've got my compound set at the requisite 29.9
deg. angle to the lathe axis, how much do I infeed the compound?
What's the general calculation?

Larry

| 460|449|2004-10-01 18:03:55|Green, James|Re: Threading|

.75 / TPI

In your case, .075.

Keep in mind this .075 will also reflect the width of the flat on the front
end of your tool bit. i.e. root width of the thread. To calculate the
"flat" .125 / TPI or .012 for your threads.

You will have to infeed the compound more if you ground the threading bit to
a sharp point since the root won't be at the correct width.

James

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 8:41 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Threading

Okay, here's a very specific question on threading. If I'm cutting
3/4-10 threads and I've got my compound set at the requisite 29.9
deg. angle to the lathe axis, how much do I infeed the compound?
What's the general calculation?

Larry

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--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
calculate the
threading bit to
Okay, I tried it this afternoon, 0.075 infeed on the compound
produces a nice tight fit with parts that screw together (this 8x14
is so much better at threading coarse threads than the 7x12).

What's the origin of the 0.75? An estimate?

Larry

| 462|462|2004-10-02 06:25:02|Chuck Downing|Threading 13 TPI|

James,
Go back in the archives to message number 367. Hope that fixes you up.

Chuck

| 463|463|2004-10-03 12:59:51|George & Cathy Dunham|ENCO shipping code for October?|

Attachments :

Hi All

What is the ENCO Free shipping code for October? Is there one?

TIA

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

| 464|448|2004-10-04 20:08:55|uptoolateman|Re: 6 X 14 Change Gears|

Chuck,
Here is what I came up with on your threading request
on the .75mm if you use b=70 e=40 d=35 f=100 this will get you
to .7408mm this was the closest I could get. On the 28tpi b=70 e=40
d=30 f=70 I got 28.00002 tpi. I haven't tried these combinations on
the lathe to see if the gears mesh properly.
It's hard with the 12tpi leadscrew to get right on. I don't know
why they chose 12tpi it seems like an odd pitch, 10 or 16 would have
made more sense to me.

Hope this helps.
Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Downing" me
dosn't
this
for

| 465|449|2004-10-05 13:16:58|Green, James|Re: Threading|

American National Standard Threads

The formula for calculating the depth of a 100% thread is 0.866 / TPI.
Generally the standard in the industry is 75% of a thread or 0.61343 / TPI.
Simplified .75 / TPI. The charts in my text book uses .75 / TPI.

Remember this formula goes hand in hand to the tool bit flat .125 / TPI

James

-----Original Message-----
From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 7:53 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Threading

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
calculate the
threading bit to
Okay, I tried it this afternoon, 0.075 infeed on the compound
produces a nice tight fit with parts that screw together (this 8x14
is so much better at threading coarse threads than the 7x12).

What's the origin of the 0.75? An estimate?

Larry

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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/| 468|448|2004-10-06 06:31:07|Chuck Downing|8 X 14 Change Gears|

---Mike,
I tried the .75mm gearing this evening and it works great.
Will try the 28tpi at a later date. Thanks alot. I really do
appreciate it.
Sincerely,
Chuck

In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" to

| 469|469|2004-10-06 19:54:02|robert wright|A tip to keep chip's out of chuck.|

Attachments :

Here's an easy way to keep those nagging chips out of
your chuck when drilling or boring. Put a slug of hard
foam in the chuck hole. It seems to help...Bob

__________________________________________________
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| 470|470|2004-10-06 22:37:49|mineralman55|Utilizing a Cutoff MT2|

I've been using my 8x14 quite a bit now. What a solid piece of
equipment. Unfortunately, the tailstock tooling I used in my (now
sold) 7x12 doesn't quite work. I had to chop off the MT2 tangs to
make them fit the 7x12 tailstock, and now getting them out of the
8x14's tailstock is a difficult proposition. Any thoughts on how to
easily get them out of the tailstock taper? Maybe putting a spacer
into the tailstock barrel to help pop out the shortened MT2 tapers?
Ideas?

Larry
New Orleans

(BTW, Those of you (im)patiently waiting for yours--- hold on. They
are WORTH the wait.)

| 471|470|2004-10-06 22:53:42|uptoolateman|Re: Utilizing a Cutoff MT2|

Larry,
That's interseting because I have been thinking of cutting the
tangs off my drill shanks because there seems to be 3/4" unusable
travel on my 8x14 with the tang intact. If the end of the tang isn't
hardened you could drill a hole and press in a pin that sticks out a
little or tap the hole and insert a screw. The screw head would
extend the length of the shank a little or you could install a
locknut on the screw and then you could set the length that would
allow you to eject the taper but still give maximum travel.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" to
tapers?
They

| 472|470|2004-10-06 23:04:07|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Utilizing a Cutoff MT2|

Larry, You could weld a piece of flat stock on the drill to replace
the tang. They sell replacement tangs at McMaster Carr. Welding would
not hurt the bit at all because all the hardness is on the other
end...Bob
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55"

| 473|470|2004-10-07 17:46:57|mineralman55|Re: Utilizing a Cutoff MT2|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"

Thanks for the suggestions. I don't have a welder, so I'll drill and
tap a hole in the end and put in a small screw to adjust.

Larry

| 474|474|2004-10-09 02:11:30|two4tom|I am trying to convert this machine to 240v|

I am trying to convert this machine to 240v. It was set up for 110v
so I think. I ran it on 110 for a couple months and it worked fine.
I went to do the conversion and when I took off the front cover to
view the switch was rapped with black electrical tape which I
thought was strange. I took the tape off and ripped of the diagram
with it. I tried to change the motor wiring first and looked at what
was there and found there was no wiring diagram that matched up with
what was set up for the 110 so I have no reference point. I called
penn tool where I bought it and they sent me a diagram for the
switch so I think. there is a diagram under the motor cover but that
did not show what was really there for 110. The plate on the motor
seemed to be the wrong plat all together. This motor is suppose to
be wired for 110 Single phase or 220 single phase. this is what on
my motor the diagram does not show this set up

Z 2 has a red wire U 2 has a jumper to V
1 V 2 has a black wire

U 1 has a black
wire
Z 1 has a red wire

Can any give me a hand with this.
Tom C.

| 475|163|2004-10-14 17:01:34|lathemaster@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to lathemaster |

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the lathemaster
group.

File : /HF8x12.pdf
Uploaded by : mineralman55 <Larryo55@... Description : 8x12 Manual

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/files/HF8x12.pdf

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

mineralman55 <Larryo55@...| 476|476|2004-10-14 17:07:39|mineralman55|New File|

I uploaded the PDF manual for the Harbor Freight 8x12 to the files
section. I don't know if this is exactly the same as our 8x14s, but
many of the diagrams and pictures are exact copies of ours. There's
some useful additional info there as well.

Enjoy it for what it's worth.

Larry
New Orleans

| 478|476|2004-10-14 19:13:53|mineralman55|Re: New File|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" Yeah, $500 stripped down. A fellow I know bought one. It doesn't come
with a chip tray, splash guard, 4-jaw, steady rest and some other
stuff. I would suspect it is a typical HF machine, which means
quality control is non-existent and the accessories are questionable.

Larry

| 479|479|2004-10-19 20:14:56|mineralman55|Turning Stainless|

I received some freebie bars of stainless and chrome-moly recently. I
want to do some turning, and threading on them. I've not used these
materials before. Any suggestions on feeds, spindle speeds, cut
depths, tool types, etc. on the 8x14?

Larry
New Orleans

| 480|479|2004-10-19 22:43:23|john labutski|Re: Turning Stainless|

On stainless I prefer hss cutters and coolant. If you don't have a pump a cheap brush from HF usually works well and holds a lot of coolant. Get the natural fiber ones and not the plastic fiber. run a speed where the coolant steams but doesn't smoke. Have never used chrome moly, except for an antenna mast. I am sure the race car guys can help on that one.

John

| 481|479|2004-10-20 04:44:27|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: Turning Stainless|

I prefer 5 or 10% cobalt HSS bits for stainless, if
using HSS. The same goes for drill bits. Carbide is
nice but the machine needs to be absolutely rigid, bit
on center, and the RPM has to be 2 or 3 time of HSS.
I'm not a huge fan of the Brazed carbides either, give
me indexable inserts and holders any day. With the
lathes discussed in this group, avoid the negative
rake holders as these machines don't have the power to
use them.

A coolant pump system is prefable to a brush as SS can
work harden. The old (banned) Tricloroethane based
cutting fluid was superior to the water soluble
cutting fluid in use today (it was banned because if
the ozone-eater (1,1,1 Tricloroethane), and cancer
risks in it, but replaced with tetracloroethane which
is worse on your health). With HSS you will be taking
frequent trips to the bench grinder and using ANY
cutting fluid will lessen your trips to the grinder.

Academically, the speed is determine by Cutting speed
x 4 divided by the diameter of the part (tool bit in
milling or drilling operations. SS is typically,
according to books, recommended to to be turned at
around 40 to 60 SFM (HSS). Use that calculated speed
as a reference and work up or down. In practice, try
to stick to that speed, but if using HSS, if the chips
are blue, your running to fast and will have to
sharpen your bit every couple minutes.

-Gabe

--- john labutski <kd6wd@...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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| 482|479|2004-10-20 14:10:48|mineralman55|Re: Turning Stainless|

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, Gabriel Dagenais
~50x4/.75 = 150 rpm. One of the two lowest speeds should be fine.

Oh boy, single point threading this is going to be real fun. :-(

No wonder I generally stick to aluminum!

Larry

| 483|479|2004-10-20 16:50:47|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: Turning Stainless|

Thats why with my 9x20, the largest SS I turn is around 7/8"with HSS. The lowest speed is 130 RPM.

Carbide changes the rules a bit, as the cutting speed is two or three times that of HSS. It allows larger diameter stock to be cut on a lathe, with what could be called a high "low end" speed. There is one caveat though, as the lathe has to be capable of taking 25-50 thous depth of cuts because with carbide you can't take tiny cuts as you can with HSS. Its edge is not as sharp and therefore wears down much quicker with light cuts than heavier cuts. also the feeds have to be faster, othen times, as well. With "heavy cuts" I often cannot feed more than .009" on my 9x20, and I imagine that the lathemaster lathes, being a benchtop hobby lathes, suffer from the same limitations. No hobby lathe can optimally use Carbide, and I've only seen 12" and larger gearheaded machines be able to fully optimise the use of carbide.

Threading is supposed to be done at 1/4 the speed of the turning speed, according to the texts. With your lathemaster and my 9x20, That means going to some flavor of variable speed, intermediate shaft, or making a crank handle and hand driving the spindle as many 9x20 users have done. Parting with a parting blade is, according the texts, about 1/2 the turning speed. Again, variable speed would be nice, or usually just putting up with the low end speed and trying to make due.

These lathes were really not designed to do to much with the SS, because a 9" South Bend can often, with backgearing engaged, have a low end of around ~30 RPM.

The 9x20 and the Lathemaster 8x14 share a similar belt drive system that does not permit the same low end as the SB. One 9x20 owner added the low end speeds of a SB by taking an Automatic transmission planetary gear set and replacing the spindle pulley with a reduction pulley set containing those gears. Most just throw on a Variable speed system and get a low end that way.

On the plus end, however, Hardinge HLVH machines (around $50K new) have a low end speed of around 135 RPM.

-Gabe

mineralman55 | 484|484|2004-10-26 21:38:26|James|Metric on an 8 x 14|
I have a up and coming project and I need to cut metric threads. The
chart on the front of the lathe plainly states what gears I need for
the pitch. The thread chasing dial is for TPI...... Has anybody
spent the time to figure this one out????

I know that I can engage the half nut and make my first pass. Back
out the cutting tool via the crossslide, reverse the lathe while the
half nut is engaged and travel back to the beginning and cut again
while going forward. Simple words to type but a PAIN if I have to
install / deinstall the extra idler gear to make the carriage move
forward and then backwards.

Thanks

James Green
| 485|484|2004-10-26 23:57:46|Mark|Re: Metric on an 8 x 14|
When you reverse the spindle dosn't the carraige feed
screw reverse as well or am I missing something?

Cheers
Mark
| 486|486|2004-10-27 03:12:00|Bill Wilkins|Thread dial & compound bolts|
James, Check post # 192 for info on the thread dial. Don't know for
sure if it applies to metric, however you are only changing the gears
and not the leadscrew/thread dial. Test it out and let us know. Thanks

To All,
Had to change out the two compound bolts because of stripped threads.
I think the bolts were made of solder. Picked up a couple 1 inch long
1/4 inch carrage bolts. Milled flats on the round head about 9/16"
wide. Then milled about .010 from both sides of the square part of
the shank same sides as the flats. Holes in the compound were big
enough and the square part of the bolts fit nicely in the round
slots. Definately sturdier with with these bolts.

Regards, BGBill
| 487|484|2004-10-27 13:30:13|Green, James|Re: Metric on an 8 x 14|

You're right, I forgot about that..........

James

From: Mark [mailto:jamiebond@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 3:47 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Metric on an 8 x 14

make my crossslide, reverse the travel back to the beginning forward. Simple words to type but a install / deinstall the extra idler gear to make the When you reverse the spindle dosn't the carraige feed screw reverse as well or am I missing something? Cheers Mark
| 488|486|2004-10-27 13:38:23|Green, James|Re: Thread dial & compound bolts|

I've noticed the same "soft" issue with the OEM compound bolts. Are you saying the compound is now sturdier????  Unfortunately the compound is the weak link on our lathes.

James

From: Bill Wilkins [mailto:bgwilkin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 9:12 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Thread dial & compound bolts

James, Check post # 192 for info on the thread dial. Don't know for sure if it applies to metric, however you are only changing the gears and not the leadscrew/thread dial. Test it out and let us know. Thanks To All, Had to change out the two compound bolts because of stripped threads. I think the bolts were made of solder. Picked up a couple 1 inch long 1/4 inch carrage bolts. Milled flats on the round head about 9/16" wide. Then milled about .010 from both sides of the square part of the shank same sides as the flats. Holes in the compound were big enough and the square part of the bolts fit nicely in the round slots. Definately sturdier with with these bolts. Regards, BGBill
| 489|486|2004-10-27 14:00:22|Green, James|Re: Thread dial & compound bolts|

I read Post #192 and you're right on the money for cutting threads per inch and I am looking to cut a M14 x 1.25.....

I'll toss Bob an email and see what he has to say. Speaking of Bob, has anybody heard from him recently????? My girlfriend is wanting to spend money and he hasn't responded to any of her emails, nor mine over the past 6 weeks........

Thanks

James

From: Bill Wilkins [mailto:bgwilkin@...]
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 2004 9:12 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Thread dial & compound bolts

James, Check post # 192 for info on the thread dial. Don't know for sure if it applies to metric, however you are only changing the gears and not the leadscrew/thread dial. Test it out and let us know. Thanks To All, Had to change out the two compound bolts because of stripped threads. I think the bolts were made of solder. Picked up a couple 1 inch long 1/4 inch carrage bolts. Milled flats on the round head about 9/16" wide. Then milled about .010 from both sides of the square part of the shank same sides as the flats. Holes in the compound were big enough and the square part of the bolts fit nicely in the round slots. Definately sturdier with with these bolts. Regards, BGBill
| 490|486|2004-10-27 15:22:35|john labutski|Re: Thread dial & compound bolts|

Just got an email from Bob, He's been busy as the dickens with lathemaster products. I think everybody is ordering a lot of stuff now that summer is over.

John

| 491|491|2004-10-29 16:55:50|Green, James|Manufacture 8 x 14|

Does anybody have a web site address or contact information for the manufacture of Lathe Master lathes???? I would like to reach them about obtaining parts for tumble reverse and / or automatic cross feed.... Found a company in Germany who offers lathes that look just like the 8 x 14 with factory options of tumble reverse and automatic cross feed.

Thanks

James
| 492|491|2004-10-30 16:09:27|Alan Trest|Re: Manufacture 8 x 14|
Great Idea James, the problem is getting the Chinese to
change "Anything". You could get them to do it,(if you were willing
to order a few thousand) at a time. Otherwise, good luck.

Alan T.

about
feed.... Found
14 with

| 493|491|2004-10-30 17:47:47|Pete Strait|Re: Manufacture 8 x 14|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Trest" willing
the
them
x

| 494|494|2004-11-01 19:48:26|mineralman55|Adjusting Threading Lever|
I'm having some trouble with the lever on the carraige front.
It "snicks" into place perfectly when I engage it for threading, but
it takes Herculean effort to disengage it. The last millimeter or so
it won't come out, so the carraige still wants to move while
threading (NOT a happy thing!)

Any suggestions on how to adjust the lever?

Larry
| 495|494|2004-11-02 21:07:36|bobbrla|Re: Adjusting Threading Lever|
Hi Larry,

There are gib adjustment screws next to the thread dial.

If loose they might cause binding when the half nut is under load or
they may be too tight causing stiffness.

Play with them a bit and you should get it operating smoothly.

Bob
P.S Bandsaws are back in stock if anyone needs one!

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" but
so

| 496|494|2004-11-03 00:02:17|mineralman55|Re: Adjusting Threading Lever|
or
Thanks. I'll give it a try tonight.

Already got Bob's bandsaw. Handy little devil.

Larry
| 497|494|2004-11-03 06:22:17|mineralman55|Re: Adjusting Threading Lever|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" load
Okay, adjusted the gib, shot some WD40 into it, followed by
kerosene, seems to work just fine now. Thanks.

Larry
| 498|494|2004-11-04 00:32:17|M K (Skip) Campbell Jr.|Re: Adjusting Threading Lever|
I would recommend oil on the gib. The surface the gib rides on is one
of the first things to ware on a lathe. I use way oil on mine (gibs and ways)
and it works great. You can tighten the gibs tighter and eliminate side
movement without binding with way oil.

Skip Campbell

mineralman55 wrote:

| 499|499|2004-11-05 01:14:25|Bill Wilkins|Rotary table?|
Hello All,
Just got a rotary table. Question is does the table only rotate in
one direction? Mine does. When you rotate the handwheel clockwise a
cam action disengages the worm gear and allows the table to rotate
freely. Rotate the handwheel counterclockwise and the worm engages
and the table rotates clockwise. Is this the way they all work. I
expected the handwheel would work both ways. Like what if you went
past the point you were supposed to stop, you can't back up to it. It
does make some sense for it to work this way. Just learning here.
First time I've even seen a RT in person.

Comment away... And Thanks

BGBill
| 500|499|2004-11-05 02:27:35|Alan Trest|Re: Rotary table?|
A proper RT should work in both directions.

It

| 501|499|2004-11-05 04:11:54|Bill Wilkins|Re: Rotary table?|

Well, 3 hours later. Yes, the rotary table does rotate both directions as Alan says it should. I discovered that if you tighten down the "T" set screw the table will rotate both directions. Loosen the set screw and rotate the hand wheel clockwise disengages the worm and allows the table to turn freely by hand. Now I'm anxious to get something mounted on it and put it to work.

Regards, BGBill
| 502|499|2004-11-05 12:19:17|M K (Skip) Campbell Jr.|Re: Rotary table?|
It sounds like the backlash adjustment lock is loose. My table,
Yuasa, has an adjustment that takes the backlash out of the
worm gear. You have to engage it to the point where there is
no backlash but not so tight that it binds, then lock the adjustment.
If you leave the lock loose it could cause the action you are
describing. I don't know of any reason why one would be designed
to operate in one direction only.

Skip Campbell
Ft. Worth, Texas
mkctools.com

Bill Wilkins wrote:

| 503|499|2004-11-06 05:16:08|Alan Trest|Re: Rotary table?|
Bill Cleary has done a very nice job on a home made rotary table. He
used mine to do the indexing.

Might try that as a first project. I also recommend the Jose
Rodriguez tape on gearcutting. That would also be a good project for
the new RT.

Alan

directions as Alan says it should. I discovered that if you tighten
down the "T" set screw the table will rotate both directions. Loosen
the set screw and rotate the hand wheel clockwise disengages the worm
and allows the table to turn freely by hand. Now I'm anxious to get
something mounted on it and put it to work.

| 504|504|2004-11-07 04:03:23|mrles27612|Lathemaster BV20 Manual|
Does anyone have a pdf of the Lathemaster BV20BL gear drive lathe? I
requested one from Lathemaster several weeks ago but they did not
respond.

Thanks in advance,

Les
| 505|499|2004-11-08 03:40:07|metalmill52|Re: Bill C's Rotary table|
Hi Everyone!

I did enjoy using Alan's Lathemaster Rotary Table to degree the RT I
made from plans by Guy Lautard. The action was very smooth and
accurate, it really made the chore of making 360 divisions easy! It
was a real good project, I learned alot about metal lathe work in
the process. I appreciate Alan's "mentorship" in advising me as I
went through each step. There are photos in the "Bill C" folder of
this groups Photo Section.

Funny thing, in looking at the closeup shot of the degreeing, I
noticed the scraps I used to block up the hold-downs are the very
pieces that became my knurling tool (pictures of the knurler are in
there somewhere too)!

I haven't contributed much here lately, as Hurricane Ivan filled up
my list with other things to do (I know it was similar for lots of
y'all), but I am now back working on another project from Lautard
plans - the Mini Tinker tool and cutter grinder. I'm making it from
half inch steel plate pieces that were parts of a machine base that
Alan gave me last year. It's mostly of a "mill project" but the 4
jaw chuck on the 8x14 has more than earned its keep in fabricating
the pivot block and toolholder from some chunks of rusty steel. When
I get done, I plan to post some notes and photos on the Quorn group
site.

I hope you all are well. I'd be happy to answer any questions about
those projects.

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Alan Trest" He
for

| 506|506|2004-11-09 19:14:01|George & Cathy Dunham|ENCO free shipping code for Nov.|
Attachments :
Hi All

I'm wondering what the Enco Free Ship Code is for Nov., if there
is one.

Thanks!

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156
| 507|507|2004-11-10 17:19:40|George & Cathy Dunham|Enco Shipping Code for Nov is CZNRFS|
Attachments :
Thanks All

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156
| 508|508|2004-11-11 02:53:28|andy|x3 motor power|
i am looking to buy an x3 mill. could anyone tell me whether it has
enough power at low rpm to make heavy cuts,ie cutting gears or for
slitting saws and face milling.also it is supposed to have a 1inch
drilling capacity and this would also need to be done at very low
rpm to stop vibration at the cutting tip,can this mill cope? advice
on the durability of the circuit boards would also be
appreciated.thanks in advance andy
| 509|509|2004-11-11 13:40:34|cba_melbourne|X3 drive belt|
Just bought an X3, taking it apart and cleaning. Noticed the drive
belt is not the best quality, already starts fraying out at the edges
after only 10 minutes running (it tracks well, not misaligned). It's
a rather unusual timing belt, 1/4" pitch. I cannot find anything like
it here in Australia, nor in catalogues from Gates etc. Suspect its
made on order for the Sieg factory. Question to X3 owners, has
anybody found a source for such belts? If not, has anybody converted
this drive to a more standard belt type, eg fitted new cogwheels?
What is the life expectancy of the standard belt anyway? Thanks,
Chris
| 510|508|2004-11-11 14:17:07|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 motor power|
Andy, I just bought one and cannot tell yet how much torque at low
speed. But I can give you some information to estimate. The motor is
a permanent magnet DC type, similar to treadmill motors, rated 600W
output power (at the shaft) at 4000rpm. The gearbox has two speeds,
Hi has a gear ratio from motor to spindle of 1:0.5, Lo has a ratio of
1:0.25. The motor can be regulated from some 200rpm to 4000rpm.
Assuming the power reduces linear with rpm, assuming its in low gear
and set to say 200 spindle rpm = 800 motor rpm. The power at the
spindle is thus 600W * 800/4000 = 120W. Less belt/gear losses thats
about 1/8HP, barely enough to drill a 1" hole in wood I'd say. You
need to keep rpm's up, its a light duty hobbymill.

There is just one board, the motor controller. Its made by Sieg and
appears to be a pwm type. Discrete power components are on one side,
the control circuiytry is on the back of the board and in smd
technology. The board appears reasonably well made to me. There are 3
potentiometers to set max speed etc. No circuit diagrams are
supplied, and all type markings on all semiconductors have been very
carefully and thoroughly scraped away, making diy repair difficult.
Should the board ever fail, it would be easyest to replace it by a KB
controller board or similar, or else to upgrade altogether to a VFD
drive. Chris

| 511|508|2004-11-11 15:25:27|john labutski|Re: x3 motor power|

Hello Andy,

I don't have an X3 but I purchased the motor for the x3 from Bob for another project. I can tell you that the low rpm torque from this motor is noticeably higher than the treadmill motors I have. The diameter of the motor case is bigger than the treadmill motors I have. I've drilled 1" holes with silver and deming drills on my mini-mill in both aluminum, wood, and a 3/4 inch hole in steel. It all depends on how heavy a cut you want to take. The x3 motor is much bigger than the x2 ( mini-mill) motor. I used a homemade controller, using a couple of 555 timer chips and a bridge rectifier (20 amp) and some 20 amp hexfets in parallel. Dan kautz seems to be quite happy with his x3.

If your really concerned about power, why not get the Lathemaster 7045fg. Its $500 more, but I do everything on it that I used to do on my BP. I have probably 6 or 800 hours on my 7045 and it has not missed a lick. I have cut over 200 lbs of swarf on it primarily cast iron and steel. I have a couple of friends who I am teaching basic machining to and it gets a lot of hours. At first glance there is a tendency to say its too big because its 700 lbs. However if you get the 7045fg, you will not regret having bought it. It will do everything you want in a mill. The swivel head allows you to use it as a horizontal mill for short lengths (8"pieces) on the y axis. I added a power head lift for mine using a gearmotor and cog belt pulleys. Cost me less than $100.00. I use 100volts DC to rapid and 12 volts to pulse in increments of .001. Beats turning the z axis crank.

Well the above is just some food for thought.

John Ocala Florida

| 512|512|2004-11-17 06:56:37|Doug Walker|New Member looking for BV20 owner|
Hello everyone,
My name is Doug Walker and I am in the market for a lathe to support
my hobby of restoring/modifying motorcycles. I also have some
interest in making a Sterling, or steam engine. I would probably be
doing a lot of bushing making and other adapters, and some cylinder
facing/boring. I really do not want to have to remake the lathe that
I choose to get it to work, I just want to get it set up, cleaned and
adjusted, and go to work.
I just read through all of the 500+ posts on this site and have seen
little on the 9x20 lathe that Lathemaster sells. I like the geared
head on this lathe because one of the problems with these small
lathes is that the spindle is driven by a tensioned belt behind the
aft spindle bearing. The bearings are prone to rapid wear and
overheating. I also like the option to use a lower belt drive to get
the speed down to 65 RPM. I have run a lot of lathes in my time and
for cutting threads, reaming, tapping, and parting 160 RPM seems a
little fast. It is too bad none of the small lathes have a back gear.
Does the 9x20 Lathemaster BV's have the same shortfall as the Seig
9x20's in that the apron is too low? Also does the cross feed have
sae threads or metric, and does it have ball or plain bearings? Also
does the chuck on the 9x20 screw on or does it bolt on?
I guess that my questions are whether it shares the advantages of the
8X14? It probably does not which is why you all seem to have
8x14's ;).
Thanks in advance,
Doug Walker
| 513|513|2004-11-17 15:07:26|Green, James|DC Tread Mill Motor|

I know quite a few people have added tread mill motors to their 8 x 14 lathes. Curious to know if anybody modified the OEM motor pulley cone?????? Any other tips or tricks out there??? I've got a few ideas running through my head but I would like to hear from some of the guys who has traveled down this road already.

Thanks

James
| 514|513|2004-11-17 19:23:44|uptoolateman|Re: DC Tread Mill Motor|
James,
The motor I used had a 5/8" shaft which was very close to the 16mm
shaft on the original only .004 different. I didn't worry about the
small amount of play as I have seen the same amount of play when
using proper sized pullies on the proper shafts on other projects (
hardware store items}. I drilled the stepped pulley for 4 set screws
1 in the smallest section 1 in the largest section and then 2 in the
same places at 90 degrees. On the timing pulley I attached the side
plates to the pulley and then installed setscrews at 90 degrees to
each other on the timing pulley.
Someone else on the list drilled and tapped the end of the treadmill
motor shaft just like the original motor, which would be easier than
the way I did it. There are pictures of the DC motor setups in the
photos section. Since the motors are open frame you need to build a
shield to close in the open part of the splash gaurd so chips don't
get thrown into the motor, You will also need to build a motor
mounting plate because most of the treadmill motors only have a
couple of mounting holes in the body.
Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" 14
cone??????
through
traveled down

| 515|513|2004-11-18 08:16:05|metalmill52|Re: DC Tread Mill Motor|
Hi Guys,

I'm the one that drilled and tapped the motor shaft, but I did use
Mike's excellent idea of making a T shaped key. I wish I had taken
the time to D/T the extra set screws, as that would let you really
fine tune the concentricity. Look under the Bill C photo folder for
my pics and narrative.

I'm Very happy with the treadmill motor - I've put many hours on it
this week working on my Mini Tinker project and it is a real luxury
to spin the knob to adjust the speed - well worth it!

Bill C.
Pensacola,FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" 16mm
the
(
screws
the
side
treadmill

| 516|513|2004-11-18 18:35:22|uptoolateman|Re: DC Tread Mill Motor|
Thanks for mentionining that Bill, I totally forgot to mention the
stepped key in my last message. If you can find some 5mm keystock you
can cut a 3/16 wide step into it 1/2 way up so the key will be a snug
fit into both the 3/16 slot on the motor shaft and the 5mm slot in
the pulley. The other thing I was going to mention is don't expect a
lot more power out of the DC motor than the original one, they seem
to be about the same even though the treadmill motors say 1 to 2 HP.
I think the HP was measured using the shetland pony standard. I have
not used the DC motor while using the slow speed pulley, this will
certainly give a lot more torque. I have been using the smallest step
on the motor and the largest step on the spindle which gives me a max
speed of 1800rpm.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "metalmill52" for

| 517|517|2004-11-20 01:55:15|uptoolateman|bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|
Guys,
Someone is selling a 10x22 (BVC25A x 550) version of the 8x14 lathe
on ebay. It's currently at $620 with free shipping but it only comes
with a 3 jaw chuck and no steadies, if only I had the funds and the
room to put another lathe. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?
ViewItem&category=57032&item=3853710041&rd=1

Mike...
| 518|517|2004-11-20 02:31:50|john labutski|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|

This is not the same quality category of lathe that Lathemaster sells. Take a look at the lead screw, its probably metric and about 9/16 of an inch. Couldn't find it with your link. So I searched ebay using 10 x 20 lathe. Also I bet if you look at the cross feed lead screw I'll bet its also metric also. You are correct that it is the same design as the 8x14. I

| 519|517|2004-11-20 02:34:43|cannon_redford|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|
Is this the same lathe as offered by Knuth in Chicago for $999.00?
It will be interesting to see what it goes for on Ebay. I have
heard that Bob from Lathemaster is going to offer some larger
lathes...any truth to this?

http://www.knuth.de/frameset_usa.htm

...Dave
| 520|517|2004-11-20 03:14:36|Tim|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" lathe on ebay.

Yeah, but it already has 40 bids, is at $620, and the auction has 4.5
days left to run. I am guessing that it is quickly going to hit the
roof.

How about it, Bob? Is this that same manufacturer? It looks almost
identical to your 8x14.

And yeah, I will probably still buy a lathe and a mill from you
eventually... I have just reached the blessed "4 power tool" state
which will allow me to periodically introduce new big tools without
my wife noticing... that new bandsaw went down the back steps a
couple days ago, and I haven't heard a word about it yet... unless
that clothes shiopping spree was her response...

You know, just like the "4 gun rule". Once you have at least 4 guns
in the cabinet, your wife will never notice new ones appearing...
| 521|517|2004-11-20 03:22:14|cannon_redford|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|
You must work at Lathemaster to know that an lathe.... unseen is of
inferior quality. Does Lathemaster have quality control personal
onsite in China? If not how do they control the quality of the
products?

Sorry for the reply, but the engineer in me needs to see some facts
not opinion.

..Dave
| 522|512|2004-11-20 03:42:00|cannon_redford|Re: New Member looking for BV20 owner|
I'm looking for the same features in a lathe as you. Check out the
small lathe available from Knuth (10x22). It looks like a larger
version of the 8x14.

http://www.knuth.de/frameset_usa.htm

...Dave

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Doug Walker" support
be
cylinder
that
and
seen
geared
the
get
and
gear.
have
Also
the

| 523|517|2004-11-20 08:10:05|bobbrla|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|
Hi Guys,

The 10 x 20 lathe is not made by the same factory as our Lathemaster
brand.

It's easy to see how pictures can be confusing on lathe models
because the Chinese lathes are mostly copied from existing designs.

I get the factory catalogs and can tell you that I could find at
least 20 pictures of lathes that look identical in the hobby size
ranges as well as the 12 and 14 inch swing models.

All made in different locations.

A few clues for you lathe shoppers that might help:

Never buy a lathe that has plastic handwheels, it's the first
indication that costs were cut.

A metal handwheel only costs about $1.50 in China so it is a good
indicator of the factory mindset.

Look at the lead screw and compound, size does matter!

Hardened ways are a must!

Motor power is very important, 550W(chinese) will not produce enough
power to make cuts on diameters beyond about 8", the chuck will stop
dead with a .015" to .020" depth of cut.

Big swing has to be backed up with a big motor or you can't use it!

A larger lathe will cost you much more in shipping costs and wasted
shop space so make sure it has the power to do the larger work.

Simple is always better, complicated designs with extra features
like add on mills, variable speed motors and electronics, fancy gear
systems, etc. will provide more chances for failures and the extra
production costs can reduce overall quality.

To answer the question about insuring quality control of our lathes,
we have developed a very simple system.

If I am not satisfied with the quality of a shipment of lathes, it
goes back to China at the suppliers expense and they don't get paid.

You must realize that the return shipping expense would equate to
the annual salary of the inspector who let the poor quality out of
the factory.

In 5 years I have only had to send one shipment back and that was 4
1/2 years ago.

Bob

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cannon_redford" of
facts

| 524|517|2004-11-20 16:08:09|john labutski|Re: bigger version of 8x14 on ebay|

Well said Bob.

I used to import diesel engines from China. These were 15 &16 horsepower jobs for generators. We went thru several (4 if memory serves me right) suppliers before we found one where the quality was acceptable.

For you guys out there, go to your library and pickup some books on china. You will find old Mao sent his guys out there to copy all kinds of equipment. The diesels we imported were copies of german engines.

There are literally hundreds of companies making lathes. China is a big country. The same basic designs are used by many different companies because the government provided all of them the initial drawings. A firm making lathes good enough for repair of ox carts is not the same company making lathes good enough for precision work.

I have two machines from Bob. A 8x14 and a 7045fg mill. With very heavy use working cast iron as well as aluminum, the ways on neither machine show any wear. I have a couple guys who get together at my place a few days a week to build stuff. This probably amounts to 20 or more hours a week of run time. The bearings are still good in both machines. My only concern is the motor on the 8x14 because I tend to hog out material a lot more than most guys and quite often stall the motor when taking big and I mean big cuts going from a 3" OD to a 1.125 od in aluminum or 2" OD steel to a 1 inch OD. The bed on the 8x14 and cross feed are super solid for a lathe this size.

The 8x14 handles heavy cuts FAR better than the 9x20 I use to own and that was with the 4 bolt plate mod. My habits came from the 16" inch swing lathe that I had in California. If I get a bigger lathe ( and I would like one) I will wait till Lathemaster selects one and decides to bring it into the country.

John

| 525|525|2004-11-21 04:24:59|tyranorbis|few questions about ZAY7045L|
im getting ready to purchase one as soon as he gets them in
1. is it ready out of the box or do i have to do a few things before
hand
2 what size t-slots
3 those that have baught it have you been satisfied with it
| 526|525|2004-11-21 16:07:53|john labutski|Re: few questions about ZAY7045L|

I have the 7045fg.  I set up my own power lift using a dc motor and variable speed controller. This allows me to have a slow drive for boring. All I had to do when I got it was open the crate, clean off table and mount the crank handles and stick it on the bench. The crank handles fit a bit tight on the lead screw ends so you might have to kiss them lightly with a bit of sandpaper. You can adjust the gibs a bit and thats it. The column casting has a rough spot where they knock of the sprue from casting. The hardening of the ways is excellent. Even with all the hours on the machine they don't show a bit of wear.

I use the 90 weight oil and a bottle of STP in the gear box. This makes it a bit stiff to shift gears but it runs super quiet this way.  I have no way of knowing if this will affect the seals, but it ain't leaking at well over 500 hours of run time.

Am I happy with it? You bet! I was doing a lot of cast iron and steel initially and it handles that stuff just like the BP I used to have. I added DRO's to the x & y and you can adjust backlash to less than .005.   My friends and I have been able to hold plus or minus .001 pretty consistently using the DRO's.

The beauty of the 7045 is that if some day you would like to add cnc to it, you can do it and you will have a superb cnc milling machine. I don't know of anyone who is not happy with this machine. Its beefier than the Rong Foo and the Enco square columns. The ones with the crank on the right side.

I added the table feed primarily for fly cutting larger pieces. I don't offhand recall the size of the Tslots but I am using a standard holddown kit.

John Ocala Florida

| 527|512|2004-11-23 04:35:35|Doug Walker|Re: New Member looking for BV20 owner|
This Knuth lathe may be an option. Personally, I ordered a 9x20 form
Bob today after talking to him last night. I think I will be getting
a solid lathe at a fair price. I know that the quality of Chinese
lathes vary widely even within a manufacturer. Just because a lathe
looks like something it really does not mean much.
I have not heard anything bad about Lathemaster lathes, or the
service you get from Lathemaster. Add to this that they have made
thousands of transactions on Ebay with a 99+% positive rating counts
for something too. I cannot say this about the other import lathe
dealers.
When I get my lathe I will let you know how it does.
Just my.02
Good Luck,
Doug Walker
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cannon_redford" a
Seig

| 528|528|2004-11-23 06:21:38|uptoolateman|Lathemaster 9x20 lathe|
Bob must have the 9x20's in stock right now or at least one anyway
because he has one listed on his EBAY auction.

Mike...
| 529|529|2004-11-29 16:52:27|mineralman55|Adjusting Backlash on 8x14|
Is there another backlash adjustment for the cross and compound
slides besides the gibs? I adjusted the gibs on the cross slide until
I have about 0.004 backlash, and the movement is a good compromise
between smoothness and stiffness. The compound is tightened up until
it's almost too stiff to turn by hand and that takes out almost all
the backlash. Anything else to try before maybe lapping the slides?

Larry
| 530|529|2004-11-29 19:29:18|john labutski|Re: Adjusting Backlash on 8x14|

Well Larry, I have had a couple of high quality machines, A new BP and a Like new Mori-seiki lathe. And in my opinion, .004 backlash on a non-ball screw setup is pretty darn good.   Your gib settings really don't affect backlash that much probably less than .0005. Having them tight just means you are going to eliminate vibration.

FWIW, Some guys use a counter weight on cross feed which is a bit clumsy, or install or a spring and a lever based setup like Dave did (look up the turbocnc group and look in the articles at dakeng site. Some guys split the nut and use a couple of screws. One to spread and the other to lock (only if they have a brass or bronze halfnut). One guy I know used the teflon paste (used for plumbing joints instead of teflon tape) on his compound lead screw and knocked it down to about .002. I have not tried this and don't know what the long term results were or if his lead screw ever seized up.

There are two things I do know about the 8x14. The first is the cross feed lead screw is a half inch in diameter. The 9x20 lathes by HF and others have 3/8ths lead screws. this means that the wear and tear on a 8x14 will be significantly less. Steve Bedair did a mod where he increased the size of the 9x20 HF to 7/16ths. The point here is the cross feed setup on the 8x14 is really pretty good.

With respect to the compound backlash. You can add another very short nut and spring load it. The problem you run into here is that it will only work well in one direction. In the case of turning you want pressure in one direction and in the case of boring you want it in the other direction. In my case I did the following mods. I disassemble the the adjustable dial and lightly lapped the little spring bars until the dial was easier to turn but not loose. This allowed me to zero the dial easily with out turning the lead screw. The dials on these small machines are a bit stiff. Now I can easily set the dial (I have arthritis) and the dial still stays set and cannot be knocked off its setting.

I don't know how much experience in machining you have, I am still a novice after 40 years in the hobby. I do know that once you start setting the indicator ring and learn how things work,many things become second nature and backlash becomes almost a non-problem ( as long as its less than .010).

Don't know if this helps, but these are situations I have observed and what I have found that works for me.

John

| 531|529|2004-11-29 19:54:32|mineralman55|Re: Adjusting Backlash on 8x14|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" and a Like new Mori-seiki lathe. And in my opinion, .004 backlash
on a non-ball screw setup is pretty darn good. Your gib settings
really don't affect backlash that much probably less than .0005.
Having them tight just means you are going to eliminate vibration.
That's pretty much what I already suspected about the gibs, but had
hoped I had missed something extra on the 8x14. My old 7x12 had a
tilting nut to adjust the backlash which loosened up constantly. I
don't miss that adjusting system.

As far as my experience goes, I'm a novice--- more enthusiam than
experience. But I'm learning, one part at a time.

Larry
| 532|529|2004-11-29 19:57:53|uptoolateman|Re: Adjusting Backlash on 8x14|
Larry, on the cross slide the nut does have some adjustment for
backlash. if you wind the cross slide back you will see a couple of
small set screws on the end of the leadscrew nut that when tightened
spreads out a split section in the nut to decrease backlash. This
will only remove so much backlash though because there is a limit as
to how far this section will spread. I think up to about .008 is
acceptable for backlash on a non ballscrew setup, just remember to
only adjust your cutting depth in 1 direction or back the handwheel
off 1 turn and then adjust to the depth desired. On the compound I
was thinking about making an adjuster similar to what Sherline uses
on their milling machine leadscrews, but I haven't needed to yet as
I still only have .004 backlash on it.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" and a Like new Mori-seiki lathe. And in my opinion, .004 backlash
on a non-ball screw setup is pretty darn good. Your gib settings
really don't affect backlash that much probably less than .0005.
Having them tight just means you are going to eliminate vibration.
clumsy, or install or a spring and a lever based setup like Dave
did (look up the turbocnc group and look in the articles at dakeng
site. Some guys split the nut and use a couple of screws. One to
spread and the other to lock (only if they have a brass or bronze
halfnut). One guy I know used the teflon paste (used for plumbing
joints instead of teflon tape) on his compound lead screw and
knocked it down to about .002. I have not tried this and don't know
what the long term results were or if his lead screw ever seized
up.
cross feed lead screw is a half inch in diameter. The 9x20 lathes
by HF and others have 3/8ths lead screws. this means that the wear
and tear on a 8x14 will be significantly less. Steve Bedair did a
mod where he increased the size of the 9x20 HF to 7/16ths. The
point here is the cross feed setup on the 8x14 is really pretty
good.
short nut and spring load it. The problem you run into here is
that it will only work well in one direction. In the case of
turning you want pressure in one direction and in the case of boring
you want it in the other direction. In my case I did the following
mods. I disassemble the the adjustable dial and lightly lapped the
little spring bars until the dial was easier to turn but not loose.
This allowed me to zero the dial easily with out turning the lead
screw. The dials on these small machines are a bit stiff. Now I
can easily set the dial (I have arthritis) and the dial still stays
set and cannot be knocked off its setting.
a novice after 40 years in the hobby. I do know that once you start
setting the indicator ring and learn how things work,many things
become second nature and backlash becomes almost a non-problem ( as
long as its less than .010).
and what I have found that works for me.
until
compromise
until
all
slides?
-----------
of Service.
| 533|529|2004-11-29 20:08:57|uptoolateman|Re: Adjusting Backlash on 8x14|
Just remembered that you actually have wind the cross slide off the
screw then pull the cross slide off the dovetail to get to the nut
because the nut is attached to the cross slide. Make a small
adjustment and then slide it back on and check the backlash.
Mike...
--- lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" tightened
as
handwheel
uses
as
compound
slide
almost
--

| 534|534|2004-11-29 23:07:08|edwardd_|Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|
I am planning to purchase in the next couple of months either a
lathe or mill. LatheMaster seems to be highly reputable and with
high overall quality.

Which should I buy first?

Thanks,

David
| 535|534|2004-11-30 00:04:55|mineralman55|Re: Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "edwardd_" | 536|534|2004-11-30 03:09:09|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|
If you can only afford one at this point in time, buy
a lathe. You can make a milling attachement to do
light milling on the lathe. I used a vertical slide
type(Palmgren 250V) until I had money for an
independent mill. You can use your lathe faceplate,
mount the workpieces (that fit within the swing of the
lathe) and do all your facing operations. Or, You can
buy the lathe, buy one of David Gingery's books, and
make the mill or shaper.
My point being, the lathe is the first important piece
of equipment to get, as a lathe, by itself, can do
more than just a mill, by itself.

If you have money for both, get both. It all depends
on your budget.

-Gabe

--- edwardd_ <david@...
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
| 537|534|2004-11-30 04:18:02|john labutski|Re: Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|

We need a little more info Edward. How much space do you have, do you want to machine steel or aluminum, nd are you new to machining. I have the 7045 fg and the 8x14. I love both. If you have a lot of space get the 7045fg. In my opinion its just as rigid as my BP was. If your short on space get the X3 mill.

If your new to machining I recommend the following:

Get the 8x14 lathe first. Its a real stout little lathe and is heads and shoulders above the 9x20 at your local Harbor Freight. Also tool up the lathe with everything you need for the lathe before you get another machine. Lathemaster has very good tool bits in HSS and cobalt. He also has a super ( I mean really nice) live center multi piece setup. Finally get his 5c collet chuck and a set of collets. The 4 jaw 3jaw you get with the lathe are really quite good. Get a set of boring bars, and if you have a few bucks left get the quick change tool post from lathemaster its the good wedge type and not the piston type. This way by the time you learn to use all the goodies for the 8x14, running the a milling machine will be duck soup. For small milling jobs you can get the milling vise for the lathe from lathemaster.

Now, don't let my list of goodies scare you. You can add them as you go at 1 every month or so. One other thing you can get is the spindex and tail stock setup. With the spindex you can cut gears on the lathe with just a bolt holding the gear blank and bolting the spindex to the cross feed. The neat thing is the 8x14 is well worth buying accessories for. Someday I may purchase a bigger 12 or 14 inch lathe. But I am going to keep my 8x14. You have to run an 8x14 for a bit to realize just realize how sweet it is.

Just plan on spending a lot of bucks for brass. After you make a few round jewelry chests and ring cases with knurling and other neat artistic features. You will find you have female relatives 4 cousin twice removed that want them. You can get away with aluminum if you get an allodine (sp?) kit.

Thats all from me.

John Ocala Florida

| 538|538|2004-11-30 14:17:30|James|9x20 Q's|
Hi folks,

Newbie here. A few quick Q's about the 9x20 Lathemaster...

What size tools should I get for it? (The lathe hasn't arrived yet.
I'm trying to get a jump on things.) Half inch? 3/8"?
Does the milling attachment that Bob has on his site fit the 9x20, or
is it only for the smaller lathe?
Are there any QCTP's out there that won't break the bank? (They seem
kind of expensive to me. But I'm pretty new to this game.)
Am I going to need a special holder for boring bars?

Thanks for your help and patience,

James
| 539|534|2004-11-30 14:47:25|Green, James|Re: Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|

I would say the lathe first. You can always purchase the milling attachment to replace the compound slide and use the 8x14 as a milling machine...... Santa is bringing me is milling attachment for x-mas..

James

From: edwardd_ [mailto:david@...]
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2004 4:06 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.

I am planning to purchase in the next couple of months either a lathe or mill. LatheMaster seems to be highly reputable and with high overall quality. Which should I buy first? Thanks, David
| 540|538|2004-11-30 14:54:11|Pete Strait|Re: 9x20 Q's|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "James" the right foot,
Enjoy!

Pete

yet.
or
seem

| 541|538|2004-11-30 21:04:16|Gabriel Dagenais|Re: 9x20 Q's|
5/16" bits are more than sufficient for small bench
lathes. Many tool holders for large lathes (for
lantern holders) use 1/4" bits.

If the milling attachment is designed for a lathe, it
will work with any lathe, provided adapters or
provisions are made to mount it.

You absolutely do not need a QCTP. They are nice, but
on my Griz 9x20, I'm still using the OEM turret post
(And shims) that shipped with it, and I've had the
lathe a year and a 1/2. I built a small one for my HF
7x10. Before the QCTPs, all turning was done with
lantern posts, turrets or the Sherline style blocks
mounted in the compound. Wait, learn the limitations
of the lathe and acquire the skills, and then, if
money allows and other shop needs are met, buy a
QCTP. The one HF occasionally puts on sale for $80 is
the best buy out there. It is the piston type, but
only in industrial lathes will the advantages of the
the Wedge type be noticed, as small bench lathes don't
have enough power to stress the toolpost bodies.

Learn the basics with your lathe and the equipment it
ships with, then add the accessories. I also
recommend David Gingery's "metal shop from scrap"
series, as you will learn much about mounting all
different shaped workpieces on the lathe. Buy some
lathe dogs and do some turning between centers. A
lathe with just a few dogs, a faceplate, centers and a
toolbit is still a mighty useful tool that can do just
about everything you could do with a full set of
chucks.

-Gabe
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Helps protect you from nasty viruses.
http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
| 542|534|2004-11-30 22:57:14|edwardd_|Re: Suggestions of which to purchase first would be appreciated.|
Thanks very much to all who took the time and effort to offer sage
advice.

I will start with the lathe.

I am completely new at this. Like the brass gift ideas. Guess that
will be in 2005.

Thanks again.

David

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
mas..
would be
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129o0bfot/M=298184.5639630.6699735.30011
76/
D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1101848829/A=2434971/R=0/SIG=11eeoolb0/*
htt
M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=group
subject=Unsubscribe
| 543|543|2004-12-02 02:26:14|tarfuking|Soon to be 8x14 owner|
Hi,

I just got myself put on the list for the upcoming shipment of 8x14
lathes (estimated January arrival). Seeing as how I have awhile to
wait for my 8x14, and that I'm new to all of this, where
(Lathemaster, Enco, Grizzly, Ebay, ?) and what tooling would you all
recommend to start off with?

I plan on using the lathe to make model engines.

Any tips or other recommendations appreciated.

Thanks,
-Mark
| 544|544|2004-12-02 06:31:13|Doug Walker|9x20 Lathemaster lathe.|
Hello all,
Because there was no info on the 9x20 lathe on this website I figured
I would make a couple of posts as I get going.
First, it only took 1 day to get the lathe to Atlanta. I called the
trucking co. and made sure it did not go out on the city truck for
delivery. Chances it would not be on a lift bed truck, so it is best
to pick it up at the terminal.

After getting it home, I broke down the crate and moved the lathe
inside to my bench. Initial impressions are good, as is the
workmanship. I certainly am not going to have to rebuild anything to
get it to work. Everything works, and after I bolt it down I will
get everything adjusted. Certainly nothing out of the ordinary for
any machinery I have ever installed. The only thing I see that needs
doing is a little deburring of the carriage and apron--there are a
couple of knuckle busters that will draw blood if left pointy.
Nothing a die grinder and a Schotchbrite wheel will not take care of
in a few minutes.

Bob Bertrand called to make sure I got the lathe and to see how I
liked it. We discussed mounting of the 4 jaw chuck and found that
the chuck had not been drilled so he is sending me an adapter plate.
Contrast this with the customer service at Harbor Freight. They
would order it from the factory in China and it would be summer
before I could use the chuck.

Speaking of chucks this lathe comes with 2 good 5" chucks--3 and 4
jaw. These are about perfect for a 9x20 and are among the first mods
the HF guys make. At $100 a piece for a chuck and backing plate it
makes the Lathemaster lathe a relative bargain even at the $599 HF
sale price. The chucks on the Lathemaster mount on a flange so no
adapter is needed and they will not unscrew if you run the lathe
backwards.

All in all I am happy with my purchase. I will start making some
chips this weekend and will report after that.
Good Luck,
Doug Walker
| 545|543|2004-12-02 14:48:39|Green, James|Re: Soon to be 8x14 owner|

The wishes and wants, could go on for pages but here is decent start......

1/2 drill chuck from Lathemaster

3/8 square HSS tool bits. This will give you 30 days to learn how to grind tool bits (Right hand, parting and maybe a threading bit)

Complete set of drills (Numbers, Letters and Fractions)

Set of taps and dies

Magnetic base and a dial indicator

Set of center drills

0-3" micrometer set

6" dial calipers

6" ruler

You can go cheap on the drill, tap and die sets. Replace these items with quality items when they break or dull. Enco can supply all of these items listed above at a decent price. 90 % of my measuring tools are Chinese made.

James

From: tarfuking [mailto:tarfuking@...]
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 6:30 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Soon to be 8x14 owner

Hi, I just got myself put on the list for the upcoming shipment of 8x14 lathes (estimated January arrival). Seeing as how I have awhile to wait for my 8x14, and that I'm new to all of this, where (Lathemaster, Enco, Grizzly, Ebay, ?) and what tooling would you all recommend to start off with? I plan on using the lathe to make model engines. Any tips or other recommendations appreciated. Thanks, -Mark
| 546|546|2004-12-02 15:33:23|yrotc78u212|new member question sieg x3|
been checking into small mills and have found one that fits my
needs.anybody have any comments on the sieg x3 mill?sieg website
very basic and not to much on the internet about
it.quality,warranty,parts availability is still not known.would like
to check it out,anybody have one in albany ny area?i machine for a
living and it`s nice to have a hobby and get paid for it but would
also like to have some machines at home too.

mark
| 547|543|2004-12-02 17:23:41|mineralman55|Re: Soon to be 8x14 owner|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tarfuking" all
Just get the tooling from Bob. I've been extremely satisfied with all
the tooling I've purchased from Lathemaster. It's reasonably priced,
well finished and fits the machines Bob sells.

Essential starter items: (1) set of center drills (various sizes);
(2) 1/2 inch or bigger drill chuck WITH arbor for the tailstock; (3)
lathe bits; (4) dial caliper; (5) decent steel rule; (6) bottle of
dykem blue or red paint; (7) twist drill set up to 1/2 inch.

I recommend that for starters, get some carbide lathe bits, as that
will eliminate the potential problems faced by a newbie that your
poorly hand-ground bits might cause. It will only be your poor lathe
technique to blame :-)

However, in the future you definately need to learn how to grind some
HSS bits.

Also helpful, I keep a Sharpie marking pen handy. If you get a
cheapie set of twist drills, also plan on getting a Drill Doctor, as
you'll need to sharpen them after 3-4 usages. I bought a set of 115
TiN HF drill bits years ago. They're fine, but dull quickly.

Just start (carefully) making chips. After a while you'll develop
your own style on the lathe. A helpful hint: get a catalog from Enco
(good) or Travers (better) and page through it. You'll get all sorts
of ideas to purchase things you didn't know existed but cannot live
without!

One thing I did while planning to purchase a metal lathe was purchase
Jose Rodriguez's video "7x10 Variable Speed Mini Lathe Operations".
It's 4 hours long, and covers all the operations you'll ever want to
do on a bench top lathe. Reading a book about an operation is one
thing, seeing it done is another.

Larry
New Orleans
| 548|546|2004-12-02 17:28:07|mineralman55|Re: new member question sieg x3|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "yrotc78u212" Look through many of the back posts in this forum where we discuss
the X3. I have one, and it is head and shoulders above the ubiquitous
X2 mini mill Sieg produces in terms of quality and capability. Bob
doesn't have it advertized on his website, but you can email him
about it.

Larry
New Orleans
| 549|546|2004-12-02 17:36:36|Green, James|Re: new member question sieg x3|

Spoke with Bob the other week about the X3 and new improvements have been made..... The table is now larger and the vertical distance between the spindle and table is now 14". Bob still needed to uncrate an X3 to verify the expanded vertical distance from the orginal 11" I would love to see one in person too within the North Carolina area.

James

that fits my
website
it.quality,warranty,parts availability is still not known.would
like
mark

Look through many of the back posts in this forum where we discuss
the X3. I have one, and it is head and shoulders above the ubiquitous
X2 mini mill Sieg produces in terms of quality and capability. Bob
doesn't have it advertized on his website, but you can email him
about it.

Larry
New Orleans

| 550|546|2004-12-02 19:14:52|mickim@rpi.edu|Re: new member question sieg x3|
larry,
just sent an email to bob asking about the upgrades you mentioned.looks
like i`ll be getting one if it pans out.

thanks
mark

| 551|546|2004-12-02 20:03:51|john labutski|Re: new member question sieg x3|

Dan Kautz has the best web site to look at the x3 in detail.

http://tedatum.com/thms/index.html.

Also, his web site covers the 8x14, x-3 and cnc projects. It is probably the one of the best sites for the hobby machinist. It ranks right up there with Jose Rodriguez and Steve Bedair. The neat think about Dan's site is he takes you all the way thru each learning curve and has super pictures. Its a 10+

John

| 552|546|2004-12-02 20:25:29|rustkolector|Re: new member question sieg x3|
I just got one of the new X3 mills from Lathemaster. The table to
spindle height on mine can be raised as much as 14 7/8". The table is
6 1/4" x 21 3/4". The emergency stop button is now on the front along
with the "Fault" and "Power" lights. All other controls are still on
the right side. From my limited experience and research, it looks
like a very capable small mill. Accuracy seems very good. I am just
getting into this hobby and have much to learn.
| 553|553|2004-12-03 17:27:32|yrotc78u212|more on x3|
thanks for the responces but i need one more thing.i have to drag
this thing down some stairs to the cellar.for those that have
one ,do i need a rigging crew(lots of friends) or is the machine
managable when it is out of the crate?when delivered does the truck
have a lift to get it to the ground?i`ve never had anything large
delivered to the house.what should i expect.

thanks
mark
| 554|553|2004-12-03 17:36:20|Green, James|Re: more on x3|

I don't own one yet but here is another idea. Call moving companies like "Two men and a truck" and have them pick up the crate at the shipping depot company and haul it downstairs for you.

James

From: yrotc78u212 [mailto:mickim@...]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 7:40 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] more on x3

thanks for the responces but i need one more thing.i have to drag this thing down some stairs to the cellar.for those that have one ,do i need a rigging crew(lots of friends) or is the machine managable when it is out of the crate?when delivered does the truck have a lift to get it to the ground?i`ve never had anything large delivered to the house.what should i expect.                         thanks                         mark
| 555|553|2004-12-03 17:43:54|Bob Berg|Re: more on x3|

What I did was take the whole thing apart and carried each piece down to the basement, cleaned every part with mineral spirits and a nylon brush, relubed everything and put it together in its new home.

You can’t believe how much “crap” came off the machine after cleaning, there was a thick layer of metal dust/shaving sludge at the bottom of my bucket with mineral spirits!

Bob

From: Green, James [mailto:james.green@...]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:36 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [lathemaster] more on x3

I don't own one yet but here is another idea. Call moving companies like "Two men and a truck" and have them pick up the crate at the shipping depot company and haul it downstairs for you.

James

From: yrotc78u212 [mailto:mickim@...]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 7:40 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] more on x3

thanks for the responces but i need one more thing.i have to drag
this thing down some stairs to the cellar.for those that have
one ,do i need a rigging crew(lots of friends) or is the machine
managable when it is out of the crate?when delivered does the truck
have a lift to get it to the ground?i`ve never had anything large
delivered to the house.what should i expect.

                        thanks
                        mark

| 556|553|2004-12-03 18:02:47|Mike Eorgoff|Re: more on x3|
Check backwards in the messages to about last January at the earliest. I
wrote a message about disassembling the X3 since I had to move it to the
basement too.

Mike Eorgoff

--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.289 / Virus Database: 265.4.4 - Release Date: 11/30/2004
| 557|557|2004-12-03 22:58:25|yrotc78u212|vice accessory|
found this in Cutting Tool Engineering magazine,thought it
interesting

mark

http://www.roviproducts.com/tiltvice1.htm
| 558|557|2004-12-03 23:04:47|Green, James|Re: vice accessory|

Pretty neat but don't think a 6" vise will fit the X3........

James

From: yrotc78u212 [mailto:mickim@...]
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 2:55 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] vice accessory

found this in Cutting Tool Engineering magazine,thought it interesting mark http://www.roviproducts.com/tiltvice1.htm
| 559|553|2004-12-04 02:58:18|cba_melbourne|Re: more on x3|
Mark, it comes very easily apart. In less than 1 hour its all in
chunks one person can carry. The important parts have been drilled
through after alignment, and fitted with a couple dovel pins. This
makes accurate reassembly quick and easy. Some pins have a small
threed in them, I guess to insert a screw as handle to pull them out.
Take all apart and clean, the thrust bearings are all dry, and I
found swarf wedged into the thrust bearings for the Z axis in the
column. Chris

| 560|560|2004-12-04 16:29:24|jm_fong|Received my X3....|
2 weeks ago from Bob. Currently in the process of ripping apart and
cleaning. We plan to CNC the mill using servos and Gecko320's drivers.
The 320's have been ordered but not here yet.

Will be using the stock leadscrews since can't afford to purchase
ballscrews just yet. Not sure how to motorized the Z-axis. If anyone
has done a CNC conversion and would like to share tips and pictures, I
would appreciate it.

This is our work in progress log with images of the mill.
http://www.embeddedtronics.com/x3.html

regards,

Jim
www.embeddedtronics.com
| 561|560|2004-12-05 03:59:02|cba_melbourne|Re: Received my X3....|
Jim, have a look here
http://www.basic.si/x3/
Chris
| 562|562|2004-12-06 15:18:35|mineralman55|Trouble Threading|
I've been having trouble single-point threading lately. The resultant
thread looks horrible, as if the metal has been torn or chewed off.
The chip does not come off as a smooth slice, but it too looks torn.
I've checked the bit height (centered), bit shape (several, all new
carbide), proper bit angle (used a threading gauge), used plenty of
cutting fluid (Tap Magic), only took 0.005 to 0.010 inch with each
pass.

The problem may be the carraige. One thing I've noticed is if I make
several test scribes, they don't end up on the same cut line, but
each scribe line moves incrementally toward the headstock. Just to
keep things consistent I always use the #1 index on the thread dial
indicator. There's a little play on the leadscrew, but not much.
There's far less than on my old 7x12 which never did this. Any
suggestions on what to check next?

Larry
| 563|562|2004-12-06 19:22:38|john labutski|Re: Trouble Threading|

What type of material are you using?

John

| 564|562|2004-12-06 20:40:37|mineralman55|Re: Trouble Threading|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" This has been on 6061 aluminum, and some 12L14 steel. Stuff that has
been a piece of cake up until now.

Larry
| 565|562|2004-12-06 20:50:54|john labutski|Re: Trouble Threading|

Check the following. The screw that locks the gear train to the lead screw. I have had this happen when I changed gears for different threads. Also look at the gear that engages the leadscrew on the threading indicator. Sometimes they get loose and you don't engage the lead screw at the correct spot. Last adjust the halfnut on the apron. I just pull off the appron to do it. Some times the lead screw carries swarf back there and chugs up the clamping.

Hope this helps,

John Ocala Florida

| 566|562|2004-12-06 23:00:29|andy|Re: Trouble Threading|
-consistent threading is made easier if you keep the half nuts
closed through the whole process.back off your cutter at the end of
each pass so it clears the material,then use your reversing switch
to take it back to the start.it will always stay in sync that way
and any backlash in the system will be automatically be taken care
of.a bit of a rake angle on the top of the cutter helps to peel the
chip away cleanly.iwould also look at whether the material is well
supported and not flexing away from the cutter.regards andy

-- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" resultant
off.
torn.
new
of
make
dial

| 567|562|2004-12-06 23:05:40|Alan Trest|Re: Trouble Threading|
Hi Larry,

First check the threading indicator. Make sure the gear is not
loose.

Alan

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" resultant
off.
torn.
new
of
make
dial

| 568|528|2004-12-08 02:59:50|Doug Walker|Lathemaster 9x20 lathe|
Hi everyone,
I have my BV20 lathe all bolted down and have been running it in. It
has 6 speeds so I have been running in all of the gears, and will
change the oil. I got the speed reduction kit for the lathe, which
drops the speed down by 1/2 and it seems like the speeds are about
perfect. I would much rather thread at 85 RPM than 170. I cannot
really see why anyone would need to machine at 2000 RPM, so this is a
worth while mod. All it involves is changing the motor pulley and
belt. There is less belt wrap, which may limit torque, but that
remains to be seen.
One problem is the low quality of some of the hardware. I replaced
the screws that hold on the threading gears with allen head machine
screws. The same applies to the bolts holding the idler gear bracket-
-I replace them with 10.9 flange head bolts. The hex head hardware
is mostly 4.8--8.8 or 10.9 is more appropriate. I also changed out
the bolts on the steady rest and will be putting on some hardened
flange nuts on the tail stock and steady rest. I plan on adding
studs to the chucks and face plate rather than using the bolts.
I also spent some time deburring everything and rounding all of the
sharp corners and edges. I used a 90deg die grinder and red Roloc
pads to do the work. There is no real reason for the sharp edges--
they look good but will raise blood for sure. Other than wiping down
the preservative the lathe is ready to go out of the crate.
Another good thing about this lathe is that it uses a magnetic motor
starter so it has some safety lockouts. I plan on adding an
adjustable switch that the carriage will hit when it gets too close
to the chuck.
After I get my mill installed and things cleaned up I will start
making some chips. Right now my shop is a mess as I try to fit
everything in. I picked up a JET drill mill used with a fair amount
of tooling and power X feed for $500 so I am pretty well set up for
future projects. No more hacking things out with a Ziz wheel and
grinder.........I plan on posting some pics when I get things cleaned
up.
Also, thanks to Bob Bertrand for the fine service.
Good Luck,
Doug Walker
| 569|569|2004-12-08 07:13:12|George & Cathy Dunham|ENCO free shipping code for Dec.|
Attachments :
Hi All

I'm wondering what the Enco Free Ship Code is for Dec., if there
is one.

Thanks!

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156
| 570|570|2004-12-08 17:05:03|George & Cathy Dunham|Re: [9x20Lathe] ENCO free shipping code for Dec.|
Attachments :
Hi All

I agree! I've asked a few times on the multiple lists in order to
judge the best list for a reliable response. Later today I'll search my
replies to make that determination. Based on my current memory I rarely get
more than 3 responses.

I wonder if using the database link for a Yahoo Group would be an
idea to use for recording discount codes for the various suppliers. It
appears any member can update the database with new info. It looks as though
the 7x10minilathe group is the largest group. I will create the database,
and when any one of the members discovers new info, if they can please add a
record and that would help out everyone.

Please send comments to dunham_g@bellsouth.net.

Sorry for the shotgun blasts. This will be my last post to
multi-groups on this.

Regards

George Dunham
719 Thompson Blvd
Union, SC 29379-7406
(864) 429-4156

-----Original Message-----
From: Randy Wilson [mailto:yahooey@rwizard.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2004 12:36 AM
To: 9x20Lathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [9x20Lathe] ENCO free shipping code for Dec.

Not to be a grumpy old curmudgeon (but of course, I am), however, it
might be better to pick ONE list to ask this on instead of asking the
ENTIRE Internet at once. CZNRFS
| 571|571|2004-12-12 06:37:35|bluepalantir|Need help on new X3|
Hi all,
I just recently received my X3 mill from LatheMasters and have been
cleaning it up during the past few nights. Today, using an engine
lift from the local rent-all place plus two 6' nylon lift slings,
finally got the mill setup on its new home.

I followed the "Initial Start" instructions and both the power and
fault light come on. According to the instructions, if this condition
happens, you should turn the speed control knob to the off position
and then rotate it clockwise until the motor starts. And this is
where I need help from someone that has an X3 (mine is the newer
version) -- when the speed control is turned to the off position does
the control mechanically "click" to indicate it is off or is it off
when the knob won't turn counter clockwise anymore? If the answer is
the latter, then I've got an electrical problem and will need to
contact Bob on Monday.

TIA,
Mitchell
| 572|571|2004-12-12 15:14:48|andy|Re: Need help on new X3|
make sure the interlock on the plastic guard isnt stopping it from
starting,i did this when i started up mine for the first time.after
gazing at it for about ten minutes i suddenly realised the guard was
partly open triggering the interlock switch.if it isnt that,switch
all switches off and start from the start again.they are not so bad
once you get used to them.great machine aswell.imust post that home
made powerfeed i just made for mine when i get a chance,then it
really is sweet.regards andy.btw there is no click off on the speed
control knob.-

-- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" been
condition
position
does
off
is

| 573|571|2004-12-12 18:27:13|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Thanks for the reply Andy. My mill didn't come with the guard so its
not that. I'm going to look around this morning, maybe I missed
something last night.

Please post the pictures of your powerfeed, I'm sure everyone will be
interested including me.

Mitchell

| 574|571|2004-12-12 19:48:33|rustkolector|Re: Need help on new X3|
I just recently received my X3 also. The fault light came on
initially but was reset by turning all switches off and making sure
the emergency stop button was reset. There is a sequence to starting
my machine. The POWER ON/OFF switch must be turned ON before the
FORWARD/RESET/REVERSE direction selector switch is turned. Then
rotate the speed control knob to the desired speed. My speed control
switch does not have a detent in the off position. If the emergency
stop button is used, rotate it clockwise to reset, then rotate the
FORWARD/RESET/REVERSE switch to the center RESET position and then
back to forward or reverse rotation. A bit unconventional but you get
used to it.

Initially mine had a tight R8 spindle bore, but that was corrected
with a little light honing. Everything works fine now and the machine
seems to be quite accurate. I haven't trammed it yet. A chip guard is
recommended for the back of the table.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" condition
does
is

| 575|571|2004-12-12 21:02:31|uptoolateman|Re: Need help on new X3|
One thing that got me at first is you need to have the
forward/reverse switch set to the center position when the main
power switch is turned on and then you turn the f/r switch to the
desired direction. If the f/r switch is already set at a direction
when the power switch is turned on the fault light will come on but
should reset when the f/r switch is set back to center.

One thing about my speed controller I've noticed is the current
limit seems to be set low. I was drilling some mild steel with a
7/16 bit and it would go to fault at any drop in rpm. I haven't had
the back off since it was new so I cant remember if there an
adjustment for that.

Mike...
Mike

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" been
condition
position
does
off
is

| 576|571|2004-12-13 04:50:03|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Thanks very much for your reply, that was it! You saved my Sunday as
I got to play with the mill all day. Hopefully this post may help
someone in the future who blindly followed the instructions in the
manual like I did.

The manual states (wrongly):
1. Set the High/Low lever to LOW
2. Release Emeregency Stop Switch.
3. Select FORWARD using the Forward/Off/Reverse switch
4. Set main power to 1 (on). Power light comes on. If Fault light
also comes on, switch off the Variabe Speed Control.
5. Start the machine by slowly increasing the Variable Speed Control
knob.

It should be:
1. Set the High/Low lever to LOW
2. Release Emeregency Stop Switch.
3. Set main power to 1 (on). Power light comes on. If Fault light
also comes on, switch off the Variabe Speed Control.
4. Select FORWARD using the Forward/Off/Reverse switch
5. Start the machine by slowly increasing the Variable Speed Control
knob.

Thanks again,
Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" get
machine
is
been
position
off

| 577|571|2004-12-13 05:28:55|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Thanks for the reply Mike, seems everyone figured this out but me :0

I'm going to have to get in there too, it seems. While trying to
figure out my initial problem, I plugged a wiring tester into the
auxillary electrical socket on the mill and the tester indicated
"Neutral/Hot Reversed". I checked some outlets in my shop with the
tester and all were OK so it does seem to indicate a problem with the
mill's aux outlet. You may want to check yours.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman"
| 578|578|2004-12-13 19:50:35|crackerfactory03|looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
Hello Everyone,

I am new to this forum, but not to machining. I have a 9 X 20
lathe and a Grizzly mini mill and I am looking to upgrade to a Sieg
X3 mill instead (the mini mill is just not stout enough for some of
the jobs that I would like to tackle, nor is the table large
enough). Also, if there are any current X3 mill owners here, could
you please tell me what the size of the mill table is? Aside from
the reasons just mentioned, I am interested in the Sieg X3 because
it appears to be just "the right size". I have no intention of
trying to move one of the 900 lbs. mill-drills into my basement as I
have no need for anything THAT large. Also, I prefer the square
column of X3 type of mill. Any help that anyone can provide will be
appreciated. (Yes, I have been to the "LatheMaster" site, and I even
e-mailed them with my concerns and the fact that I would like to
order an X3 if possible, but I received no reply).

Regards,

Curtis (crackerfactory03)
| 579|578|2004-12-13 20:02:45|john labutski|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|

Just email sales@... and tell them you would like to buy an x3.   You can also check the Seig web site and get the dimensions. I have two machines from Lathemaster, the 7045 and the 8x14. If you place the order you can probably get one in 30 days or so. The x3 sells like hotcakes primarily because it handles steel very well. Just leave your phone number so Robert can give you a call. He usually sort of interviews you for your requirements so that you get what you need. Some guys think they are getting a tree vertical when they buy these mills. They are well worth the wait and really are the small mill that the mini-mill should have been.

John

| 580|580|2004-12-13 21:14:12|Green, James|Flexing of QCTP from Lathe Master|

I purchased one of the QCTP from Bob a while back and we all know that it comes with a milled down compound slide. I am experiencing a small amount flexing / deflection when parting and end facing when I reach the middle of the material.   The milled down compound slide at best has 4 or 5 threads for the QCTP mounting stud since the underside of the compound is counterbored.   I am thinking about threading a nut onto the mounting stud from the underside counterbored area. Basically weld the nut into position and mill the nut and weld beads flush with the compound slide..... Wonder if I will gain anything from this??? I would hate to warp or discolor the cast iron compound slide. Any thoughts on this idea???

This flexing / deflection makes the cutter lean back towards the operator. The compound slide is nice and tight since I lapped the gib and have about .006 of slop in the cross slide lead screw.

Thanks

James Green

PS I haven't tried using the old compound slide and tool post to see what the results are. But I won't get that opportunity until later in the week.......
| 581|578|2004-12-13 21:23:47|crackerfactory03|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
--John,
Thanks for the reply and the information, but as I said in my
first post, I did e-mail LatheMaster and received no reply. I will
try telephoning next and as you suggested, leaving my phone #, but I
prefer e-mail communications nowadays since I can express myself
more thoughtfully and with greater clarity in writing (it is just a
personal thing, I've never been good on the telephone).Also, I am
not at home that much and forget to check the answering machine,
whereas I am on the PC much of the day when I am at home. Yes, I
agree with you that the X3 looks like the ideal home shop machine
(as far as I can tell without actually having ever been able to
examine one up close).

Regards,

Curtis

- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" two machines from Lathemaster, the 7045 and the 8x14. If you place
the order you can probably get one in 30 days or so. The x3 sells
like hotcakes primarily because it handles steel very well. Just
leave your phone number so Robert can give you a call. He usually
sort of interviews you for your requirements so that you get what
you need. Some guys think they are getting a tree vertical when
they buy these mills. They are well worth the wait and really are
the small mill that the mini-mill should have been.
20
Sieg
of
could
from
because
as I
be
even
-----------
of Service.
| 582|578|2004-12-13 21:59:36|rustkolector|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
If you really want an X3, you better pick up the phone and call Bob
at 225-377-7001. I suspect that he is rather busy and does not check
his email very often. I have never gotten an email response from him
either, which I think is poor since he suggests using email clearly
in his website. When you catch him by phone, you can ask all your
questions and get a price quote with freight to your door. He is very
helpful. I suspect he still has a few stock X3's from the most recent
shipment that came in, but they don't last long. If he does not
answer, leave a message. He does seem to return phone calls.
| 583|580|2004-12-13 22:30:14|uptoolateman|Re: Flexing of QCTP from Lathe Master|
James,
When I milled my compound for the QCTP I made a ring that filled in
the recess on the backside of the compound. I predrilled the proper
tap drill size into it, knurled it for a light press fit and epoxied
it into place. I then machined the top of the compound and
drilled/tapped the hole for the new toolpost stud. The new toolpost
stud has full thread engagement. I also made a plug to fill in the
hole for the index pawl. You may also think about replacing those
small screws that hold the copound down with something bigger. I
think somebody else on the list used some modified carriage bolts.
Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
small
reach the
has 4
onto the
weld the
gib
see
later in

| 584|578|2004-12-13 22:36:50|uptoolateman|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
Cutis,
I got one of the mills from a couple of shipments ago and from what
I understand the new mills come with a 14" Z height vs 11 1/2" on
mine, but mine did come with the new larger table that is 6 1/4 x
21". The travel on mine is somewhere around 6" on Y, 17" on X and 8"
or 9" on Z. The assembled weight is around 430 lbs but it comes
apart into manageable chunks that one person can manage.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "crackerfactory03"
of
I
be
even

| 585|578|2004-12-14 07:54:47|crackerfactory03|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
--
Uptoolateman,

Thanks for your reply and the information that you gave, which
was very useful and has helped me to decide to go ahead with the
purchase of this mill. I didn't know about the increased Z height,
but that is great news! And the table is even larger than I had
hoped.For my needs, this will be an ideal machine. Now, does anyone
want to buy a used mini-mill cheap?

Regards,

Curtis

- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" 8"
20
could
from
because
as

| 586|578|2004-12-14 07:54:55|crackerfactory03|Re: looking for Sieg X3 dealer|
Rustkolector,
I will call him, and thanks for the information.

Curtis

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" Bob
check
him
clearly
very
recent

| 587|587|2004-12-14 15:32:10|spryspriger|Hello and intro|
Hello all my name is Mitch. I have been in this group for a while
but have not introduced myself. I was a machinst for 7 yrs, Tool and
Die, Gear and Spline, and Job shop work. I live in Seattle in a
small apartment. In one corner I have a 7X12 lathe, Taig mill and a
8" Drill press. My hobbies include Robotics ( not robot wars ) and
scale plastic modeling. I served 12 yrs in the Navy as a Parachute
Rigger, and have a A.A. degree in Industrial Design.

But I wish to have a bigger mill and lathe like the Lathemaster
line. When I get them the Taig will be made CNC. I would to think
all great people in this group for sparking my dreams again
especially Bob and Mr Labutski among others.
looking froward to ordering a mill and lathe in March, I know I
will have to what to get new shipment from PRC But its worth it...

P.S. I will be moving to a place with a garage for the toys :)

Let the chips fly ...
Thanks again
Mitch ........
| 588|562|2004-12-15 05:32:56|mineralman55|Re: Trouble Threading, Closing Thoughts|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" resultant
off.
torn.
new
of
make
dial
Thanks for everyone's input. I finally figured out what went wrong.
To cut 10 TPI you need gears 70:40:72:60 from the spindle to the
leadscrew. I accidentally put in 70:40:70:60. Whatever the resultant
was, it wasn't a true inch thread, as reengaging the thread dial
indicator wouldn't line up the thread properly.

Larry
| 589|571|2004-12-17 06:42:57|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
rustkolector, could you explain how you honed your spindle bore? Mine
is so tight that only the drill chuck that came with the mill will
fully seat. The new end mill holders and collets I just received
won't travel far enough up the spindle bore for the draw bar to reach.
In fact they stop a little past the key in the bore. I put some
layout dye on the drill chuck and inserted it. In the area about 1/2
inch on both sides of the chuck's keyway there were scrape marks. I
put some #120 valve grinding compound on the end of the chuck's shaft
and worked it in/out of the bore for about an hour but that didn't
help much.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" get
machine
is
been
position
off

| 590|571|2004-12-17 16:10:19|john labutski|Re: Need help on new X3|

Check the slot on the collet. Some collets have very narrow slots and some are insufficiently deep. Measure the OD of your collets. Its doubtful that they would all have this condition because they are made on different machines. Then compare this OD to the R-8 specifications. Also forcing the collet up the ID of the spindle can deform the pin and cause interference fit problems. Since the drill chuck fits the spindle its most likely your set of collets has the problem.

John

| 591|571|2004-12-17 19:02:49|rustkolector|Re: Need help on new X3|
Mitchell,
I found two things wrong with the spindle in the X3. The upper
straight bore was .948" which is about .0015" too tight for the R8
collets that I had (0.949"). I checked collets in use on other mills
and they were also reading 0.949". I don't have specs on the R8
spindle bore, but I suspect it should be 0.950". The other problem
was that the spindle indexing pin protruded in too deep. The bore had
to be honed but could not be done with the pin in place. I removed
the entire quill assembly from the mill. I removed the two jam nuts
on top of the upper bearing and knocked out the spindle from the
bearings using a lead hammer. I don't have a press yet. The spindle
indexing pin must be pushed out from inside the spindle bore. It is
not a tight fit, but the spindle must be removed from the quill to
remove the indexing pin. A large wood dowell and a screw driver
worked it out easily. I shorted it about .015", if I remember
correctly, and it then fit my collets. I used a brake cylinder hone
and kerosene to hone the upper straight bore of the spindle. You can
find a brake cylinder hone at any auto parts store. The spindle is
hard so it took longer than I expected to open it up, but hone for
short periods and measure often. You can't put the material back. I
measured all the new Lyndex collets I had, and all the used collets a
friend had. There was only 0.0007" difference among them. They all
fit his Bridgeport so I honed the spindle bore until the largest
diameter collet of the bunch JUST FIT snuggly.

Reassembly needed a sleeve to press (in my case, tap) the spindle
back into the upper bearing. You want to press it on the inner race.
I turned the sleeve out of a fat 1" NPT pipe coupling. I cleaned the
lower tapered roller bearing and regreased it generously. It was
originally quite clean, but it got cleaned anyway. The upper bearing
is sealed. The bearings had a little preload in them when I
disassebled them. I tried to tighen the two jam nuts on top of the
upper spindle bearing to approximate about the same drag on them as I
found on disassembly. There isn't much adjustment between slop and
drag, so get a good feel for the drag (preload) on the spindle before
taking it apart. The jam nuts require a spanner wrench that I did not
have, so I did the best I could. The fix seems to have worked. The
mill seems to be working fine now. Someone else might have a little
better way of doing this, but it worked for me. Accuracy seems to be
quite good on my mill, but I am a novice. This was not as big a job
as I had anticipated.

The R8 arbor on the drill chuck that came with my X3, measured
0.9475", and it has a very deep .170" indexing pin slot. The slots on
my Lyndex collets are only about .067" deep. I initially discussed
this whole problem with Bob at Lathemaster. He offered his
suggestions and help. He even offered to do it for me, or remove a
quill assembly from another stock mill. You might talk to him to see
what is best for you. I was anxious to get started with my mill so I
attempted the fix with the help of a good machinist friend. From your
similar experience, another quill might not have worked in my case.
It sounds like Sieg has an inspection issue to address. Contact me
directly if you have any additional questions.

Rustkolector

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" Mine
reach.
1/2
I
shaft
sure
starting
control
emergency
the
then
corrected
guard
engine
slings,
and
is
newer
position
answer
to

| 592|571|2004-12-18 01:29:54|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
John,
The slots in the new holders and collets are definitely more shallow
than the drill chuck. However, I'm not sure they are causing a
problem. I cut some masking tape and put it in the slot of a collet
and inserted in the spindle until I couldn't push it up any further.
After taking it out, I didn't see any cuts, impressions or tears on
the tape. I believe the problem is that the bore is too small.

Since the collets and holders are from two different manufacturers and
have the same slot depth, it seems the practical approach is to fix
the spindle instead of being faced with the potential of needing to
alter tools. Of course once I look at the pain of removing the
spindle, I may prefer to alter the tools :-)

Thanks,
Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" and some are insufficiently deep. Measure the OD of your collets. Its
doubtful that they would all have this condition because they are made
on different machines. Then compare this OD to the R-8 specifications.
Also forcing the collet up the ID of the spindle can deform the pin
and cause interference fit problems. Since the drill chuck fits the
spindle its most likely your set of collets has the problem.
Mine
reach.
1/2
I
shaft
sure
starting
control
emergency
the
then
you
corrected
guard
engine
slings,
and
is
newer
position
it
answer
to
----------------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Service.
| 593|571|2004-12-18 01:51:17|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Rustkolector,

It sure sounds like an inspection issue with the spindle bore since my
mill has the same problem as yours once did. And I also talked with
Bob briefly on Tuesday about this issue. He called back the next day
to check how things were progressing, which I thought was nice. He
was real helpful and mentioned that someone else had this same problem
and had taken the spindle out -- must have been you. He also offered
to correct the problem if I could send the spindle. And there's the
rub. After reading your description, I really don't feel competent
enough to reassemble the spindle...disassembly is always easy :-)

I bought a small brake hone with 2 stones that I'm hoping will clear
the index pin and allow me to get to the bore without removing the
spindle. I'm going to run over to the shop now to check it out.

Thanks very much for your detailed reply.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" had
a
I
before
not
on
your
you
it

| 594|571|2004-12-18 04:14:19|rustkolector|Re: Need help on new X3|
Mitchell,
I would not attempt to hone the spindle bore with the pin in place or
with the quill in the machine. There are too many things that could
go wrong as a result of this awkward working position. The pin will
almost certainly catch the rotating hone at some point. Also, I
recommend a three stone brake hone. It centers better and should cut
more evenly. As I said, the spindle is hard and it takes some time to
hone. If you don't have any experience honing you might want to let
Bob do it for you.

Removing the quill assembly is fairly easy. Just remove the return
clockwork spring on the left side of the head. It rotates out of a
detent and comes off easily. Then remove the three quill handles and
dials from the handle shaft (pinion shaft). Remove the pinion shaft
support from the right side of the head and withdraw the pinion
shaft. The quill drops, but is still retained in the head by a set
screw that fits in the vertical slot in the front of the quill.
Remove the cover screw and the underlying set screw from the front of
the head and the quill drops out. Make sure you have a piece of wood
protecting the table when you do this. The quill is heavy. At this
point, you are almost finished with complete disassembly of the
quill. There are only two jam nuts to loosen and then knock (I
mean..TAP) out the shaft. You can either send the quill assembly to
Bob, or proceed per my previous post. If you don't feel comfortable
doing the work, or don't have anyone more experienced to help you, by
all means, return it to Lathemaster and let Bob fix it. I am sure he
will do so without hesitation. After all, it is a new machine. I know
this is frustrating after spending so much money, but it happens.
Let us know how you make out.

Rustkolector

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" my
with
day
problem
offered
clear
R8
mills
problem
removed
nuts
spindle
is
to
hone
can
is
for
I
collets
all
race.
the
bearing
the
as
and
The
little
be
job
slots
discussed
a
see
so I
case.
me
bore?
will
received
some
about
marks.
didn't
the
Then
rotate
power
this
this
is
need

| 595|571|2004-12-18 06:01:34|uptoolateman|Re: Need help on new X3|
Had the same problem with my spindle, I couldn't even get my collets
past the drive pin. I ended up grinding away the pin with a dremel
tool because I didn't want to mess around with pulling the spindle
apart. I don't think removing the pin is a big deal I've heard of
people doing it on bridgeports once they got damaged. My bore was
smaller right at where the taper ends and goes up into the spindle,
just needed to break the edge a little and all my collets now fit.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" or
cut
to
and
of
wood
to
by
he
know
since
He
the
competent
the
the
It
You
back.
largest
spindle
cleaned
was
them
did
to
remove
to
From
chuck's
on
before
speed
and
but
the
chip
an
off
the
the

| 596|571|2004-12-18 09:24:26|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Rustkolector,

Thanks for the warning but its too late, I did the dirty deed. I
ground off some of the pin with a dremel and used a short two stone
brake hone. The old three stone one I have and the ones I saw at the
auto parts store earlier today have too large a diameter to fit and
clear the pin. So I looked around until I found one that was short
in length with two stones. KD Brake Cylinder Hone #267. While slowly
spinning it with a portable drill, the hone's fingers just barley
"clicked" on the pin only when the stones were right above the pin but
as the hone was advanced upward, it had good clearance. I regularly
poured kerosene down the shaft using a tiny funnel to wash away the
particles and used cutting fluid on the stones. The spindle is really
hard so it took awhile. I also regularly cleaned the bore by shoving
a kerosene soaked paper towel up the bore, twisting it around with a
wooden dowel. Then I shoved the dowel down the shaft until the paper
towel fell loose. Oiled up the holder and test fitted. Marked the
holder with a Sharpie each time so I could see the travel I was
gaining. Its still pretty tight at the top, had to use the drawbar to
pull the end mill holder fully into place the last inch or so but at
least the holder doesn't stop right above the pin. I'll finish up
tomorrow, check the runout and report back.

Thanks again for all your detailed suggestions. Drinks are on me if
you're ever in Austin.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" or
to
of
by
know
since
He
the
competent
bore
back.
spindle
did
to
to
chuck's
and
but
the
an
the

| 597|571|2004-12-18 15:02:11|nowdkyle|Re: Need help on new X3|
The bore size on mine was O.K. but the pin stuck out too far. I was
able to just pry the pin in a little deeper. I used an aluminum rod
that fit past the pin. Worked fine after that.
Good luck,
Dick K.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" collets
spindle,
place
could
will
time
let
return
a
shaft
set
front
this
assembly
comfortable
you,
sure
happens.
talked
next
nice.
there's
easy :-)
out.
upper
the
other
R8
jam
bore.
quill
driver
remember
cylinder
spindle
hone
They
inner
of
slop
spindle
I
worked.
seems
big a
measured
him
mill
my
Contact
mill
bar
put
area
that
came
to
turned.
the
position
unconventional
and
and
using
lift
the
if
And
off
or
If
will

| 598|571|2004-12-18 16:47:09|rustkolector|Re: Need help on new X3|
Mitchell,
Glad to hear you made progress. The method doesn't matter. Just the
result. I would hone until you can JUST get a collet or tool holder
to seat all the way in the spindle without having to draw it in with
the drawbar. Good luck. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays.

Rustkolector

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" stone
the
short
slowly
but
regularly
really
shoving
a
paper
to
at
place
could
will
cut
time
let
return
a
and
shaft
set
front
wood
this
to
comfortable
you,
he
happens.
next
nice.
)
the
the
other
R8
jam
the
It
quill
driver
cylinder
You
spindle
hone
They
largest
inner
cleaned
was
of
them
slop
spindle
worked.
seems
a
measured
remove
to
mill
From
Contact
bar
on
to
before
turned.
speed
chip
and
using
lift
the
off
And
the
or
will

| 599|599|2004-12-19 21:30:55|John Labutski|Tapping on the 7045fg|
I am helping a friend retrofit a large gantry type router. I had a
bunch of 15/16" x 16 tpi holes to tap in some 7075 aluminum blocks.
Since these need to be very straight, I planned to tap each of them
as I bored the holes. Well it takes a heck of a lot torque to tap
those dudes by hand. So I thought I would tap them using the 7045fg.
I put it in the lowest speed. To my surprise, the 7045 didn't even
bear down to tap these holes. Initially I was concerned about
snapping a gear or frying the motor. Ten blocks later I was done. No
problem with the mill and the job was done before my friend finished
tapping one by hand. I am continually surprised at how the 7045 just
keeps on cranking Its worth every penny I paid for it and then
some. Someday I will add the Industrialhobbies.com cnc for it, but
for now I consider it my short but stout manual Bridgeport.

Best Christmas and Chanukka (I had to look up the spelling on that
one) wishes to everyone in the group. May everyone have fun holidays
and a New Year with bunches more of cool tooling and understanding
wives.

Take care

John Labutski, Ocala Florida
| 600|571|2004-12-20 06:33:03|bluepalantir|Re: Need help on new X3|
Rustkolector,
I took your advice and honed the bore until I can just seat the holder
with a medium pressure push. This time I used a 3 stone hone I got
from an import auto shop. Right diameter but it was too long so I cut
about an inch off the shaft. It worked nicely, no clearance problems
with my now shortened index pin.

I checked the TIR on a tool holder I got from LatheMasters and was
relieved to see its around .001+. I can live with that.

Do you have any problems with using your High/Low selector knob? Mine
is very hard to turn in both directions. I opened the access cover on
the head and lubed the gears with lithium grease but didn't notice any
change. I didn't have time to really troubleshoot it due to some last
minute shopping I had to finish.

Happy Holidays!
Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" and
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| 601|601|2004-12-20 19:35:49|mark_anthony123|7045 / X3 vs american.|
I've been leaning towards these size mills as opposed to a taig or
sherline because the latter just seems to light and small. The 7045
looks great except I am concerned about parts. It looks like
lathemaster is the only importer of these mills. Do any of you think
it is risky to own a mill that is such a low quantity import? I am no
stranger to chinese imports, I own a Jinma 23hp diesel tractor and I
love it - but I do know that I can readily find parts for it.
Thanks, Mark.
| 602|601|2004-12-20 20:49:44|john labutski|Re: 7045 / X3 vs american.|

I hate to disagree with you, but as the former owner of a brand new Bridgeport I can tell you that the 7045 mill is not a low quantity or is it a low quality import. Nearly all of the parts on 7045 machines are interchangeable. The difference being is the final quality of the finished product. I have pounded the dickens out of my Lathemaster 7045 for nearly a thousand hours primarily cast iron and steel. And it still keeps on running. I have even pushed it far past the recommended limits for power tapping and did 15/16ths-16 threads with 80% threads. Other than major cast iron pieces there is not to much that can not be replaced by purchasing in the USA or directly from lathemaster.com, that includes bearings, gears, etc. Not to brag, but its every bit as good as my buddies Rong Fu and superior to the HF round column gear head mill. I personally do not think its a risky proposition.   Also you might not be aware, but nearly all the gears, castings, etc on American machines are now done in China. Try and find a foundry for gray cast iron in the US or for that matter a crank shaft forging plant. Good Luck!

Remember if you need parts from China, you can get any part shipped within a week via COSCO (china ocean shipping company) if you pay the $6.50 a lb for air shipping. I am surprised that retailers of Chinese Products do not offer these services.

BTW your 23 horspower diesel tractor is probably made by at least half a dozen firms in China usually in Changzou province.   I will bet you can probably get parts that fit from Chinadiesel.com or a half a dozen different importers. You just need the manual and the part number.

John

| 603|571|2004-12-20 21:29:13|rustkolector|Re: Need help on new X3|
Mitchell,
I wouldn't worry about the HI/LOW gear selector. Sometimes my
selector falls right into the speed I want. Other times it won't
because the teeth evidently don't mesh. They are straight cut gears
and they just won't mesh every time. Just run the motor at its very
slowest speed (which is only a few RPM) as you turn the selector. It
will fall into gear without any problem. Works for me. This selector
function might also improve with use.

Once you get everything working to your satisfaction, you should
check the column alignment to make sure the column and table are
square. I found mine to be about .004" off on the X axis and
about .002" on the Y axis.

About the only maintenance item left on my X3 to do is to try to get
the dials to spin a little more easily. They are very stiff. If
anyone has any suggestions on improving the dial stiffness, I would
appreciate hearing from them. I would like a DRO system and be able
to forget the dials altogether, but my tool budget limit has been
reached for now.

Happy Holidays,
Rustkolector

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" holder
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| 604|604|2004-12-20 22:41:47|John Labutski|adjusting dials on lead screw cranks x-3|
Don't know if your dials are the same as those on the 8x14 but if you
disassemble the dial there are usually two beam springs they look
like flattened 'U's they are about .040 to .060 in diameter. On my
8x 14 I took these two little springs and stoned them on the top flat
and the two ends. It took a bit of stone and try, but now they are
just perfect for my use. Just be very careful when you pull the dials
off they are easy to loose. It took us (my wife and I) an hour to
find one when I dropped it. Putting them back in takes a bit of
messing around, but its well worth the effort. They set easily but
can't be knocked off of setting without some effort.

John Ocala Florida
| 605|605|2004-12-21 12:46:38|Mitch Cundiff|removing mill from truck|
Hello all, I was thinking about getting a mill. How did you guys get
it off the truck ? And if lifting it, some 2000lbs webbing in a
choke around the coloum useing a engine hoist ?

Thanks Mitch ................
| 606|605|2004-12-21 15:08:07|john labutski|Re: removing mill from truck|

I was fortunate in that the truck had a tail gate lift. I have a slopped driveway with about 20 degree grade coming up to the house. So we slid the 7045 on to the legs of the harbor freight folding crane and the truck driver and my wife pushed it up the driveway while I used a rope wrapped around a bench with my 8x14 on it to prevent a run away. Once in the garage we used about 50 feet of that 3/4 inch rope that truckers use wrapped around the head of the mill and one two loops under the base to lift it on to the bench.   Crank the head up so the pressure is distributed between the base and the gear head. The HF crane gets just high enough to get the base of the mill above the bench top.  Just make sure there is sufficient space for the legs of the crane to slide under the bench.

John Ocala Florida

| 607|601|2004-12-21 17:31:42|mark_anthony123|Re: 7045 / X3 vs american. , cnc z-axis|
the american tractor manufactures are going to china for many foundry
parts as well. The castings on my jinma are pretty darn good.

Has anyone cnc'd a 7045 on this group? can the z-axis gearing take a
motor fairly easily? is their backlash issues?

Thanks, Mark.
| 608|601|2004-12-21 18:41:20|john labutski|Re: 7045 / X3 vs american. , cnc z-axis|

Just check industrialhobbies.com. Great info on CNC'ing of the Lathemaster 7045.

John Ocala Florida

| 609|609|2004-12-23 03:44:46|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|new pics|
Hi guys, I have a lot of pics on my South Bend group of projects i
have made. Does anyone here want to see them? I can put them in a
folder. They have some good ideas even if they were not made on a
Lathemaster lathe...Bob
| 610|609|2004-12-23 04:13:35|Larry O'Mahoney|Re: new pics|

If you've already got them posted on a Southbend site, what is it? Otherwise, please post them.

Larry

New Orleans

Merry Christmas!

| 611|609|2004-12-23 04:34:18|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: new pics|
There is a link under my profile or use this one...Bob
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Larry O'Mahoney" Otherwise, please post them.

| 612|612|2005-01-04 17:19:59|James|Santa was good to me|
Received a Bison 5" 3 jaw chuck and a Lathemaster milling attachment
for Christmas. I've used the milling attachment a few times and its
not too bad. Not really good enough for cutting steel but no
troubles with brass and other soft metals. It's takes a few minutes
to get your workpiece bolted down and square to the endmill

The 5" chuck is rather LARGE and currently waiting on counterbores so
I can finish up on the adapter plate that I got from Bob. The
adapter plate from Bob already has the proper holes and "almost" in
the correct places. I had to drill the mounting holes in the spindle
flange .015 larger so the adapter plate would fit smoothly.

James Green
| 613|612|2005-01-04 18:22:26|john labutski|Re: Santa was good to me|

Glad you had a cool Christmas. I pulled my darn back out Christmas eve trying to remove the z axis on the mini-mill.  I spoke to Bob over at lathemaster. He suggest using Midol (womens time of the month stuff). It actually helped a lot. I now have the switches so I have Scott coming over this Wednesday to help me so I can do your harness for the variable speed and will ship the stuff by Thursday.

If that vise is setup like I think it is, it will be great for cutting worm gears with the lathe.

The cnc project with the min-mill is on hold till my back gets better. The x & y axis are pretty well done. Just need to bolt them on and measure for belts. I changed the gearing to 1.7 to 1 from 3 to 1. The stepper motors have plenty of poop. The chinese are now making stepper motors and they are very good quality and selling for about 40% of the Pac Science steppers. In fact they are cheaper than US made plain DC motors and they use NSK bearings and US insulated wires and use rare earth magnets. So there goes another US industry!

We got the 4140 steel bar in for the 5C spindle for the 7x10 mini-lathe. We are going to press fit a disk that matches the 4 inch lathe chuck flange on this after we get it bored out and turned by my friend who as a bigger lathe(16 inch). This way the 7x10 can use 5C collets and a homemade collet closer. If this works out,  I may try it on the 8x14 lathe. I just need to get up the nerve after a success with the 7x10.

Take care,

John Ocala Florida

| 614|26|2005-01-04 21:50:57|charles rakes|8x14|

Hello Bob, Finally got my 9x20 on the bench and under power......believe it has good possibilities in my shop.......when will you have the smaller 8x14 lathes in stock? Might like to get one too. Cheers, Charles
| 615|509|2005-01-04 23:57:49|rob_whiteau|Re: X3 drive belt|
Chris

Did you have any luck finding a belt here in Australia?

Rob
Brisbane

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne"
It's
like
its
converted

| 616|509|2005-01-05 03:12:49|prentice@snailmail.ch|Re: X3 drive belt|
Pardon if this is a double post, wasn't sure last one took. Somehow got tagged
as SPAM in the subject line. Anyhow,

Brecoflex makes several timing belts with a 6.35mm (1/4") pitch. Not sure if
the tooth profile matches as I have yet to see an X3.

Might be worth calling them, though. You can get their specifics at:

http://www.brecoflex.com

Regards,

Prentice

Quoting rob_whiteau <rwhite4@...

| 617|509|2005-01-05 03:13:08|prentice@snailmail.ch|Re: SPAM[RBL] [lathemaster] Re: X3 drive belt|
Brecoflex makes several timing belts with a 6.35mm (1/4") pitch. Not sure if
the tooth profile matches as I have yet to see an X3.

Might be worth calling them, though. You can get their specifics at:

http://www.brecoflex.com

Regards,

Prentice

Quoting rob_whiteau <rwhite4@...

| 618|612|2005-01-05 15:24:47|Green, James|Re: Santa was good to me|

Hopefully your back is doing better.......

Received a few different counterbores and pilots from Travers.com last night. Now I can finish the mounting plate on the milling attachment and the 3 jaw chuck adapter plate at school next week. My drill press is not slow enough (RPM) and I would hate to burn up counterbores that run $20.00 a piece. This Bison 3 jaw chuck is massive compared to our OEM chuck!!!! The vise on the milling attachment is only a "C" channel piece of steel and three threaded holes on one leg so you can bolt down the work piece. The inside corners of the vise are rounded and it's a pain to set parallels when the corners are not squared...... Sometime in this up coming semester I'll square the corners and add a moveable vise jaw......

Using 5C collets in the 7x10 mini-lathe is a neat idea!!!!!! Why not stick with your 5C collet chuck that you have for the 8x14 lathe????

James

From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2005 11:23 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Santa was good to me

Glad you had a cool Christmas. I pulled my darn back out Christmas eve trying to remove the z axis on the mini-mill.  I spoke to Bob over at lathemaster. He suggest using Midol (womens time of the month stuff). It actually helped a lot. I now have the switches so I have Scott coming over this Wednesday to help me so I can do your harness for the variable speed and will ship the stuff by Thursday.

If that vise is setup like I think it is, it will be great for cutting worm gears with the lathe.

The cnc project with the min-mill is on hold till my back gets better. The x & y axis are pretty well done. Just need to bolt them on and measure for belts. I changed the gearing to 1.7 to 1 from 3 to 1. The stepper motors have plenty of poop. The chinese are now making stepper motors and they are very good quality and selling for about 40% of the Pac Science steppers. In fact they are cheaper than US made plain DC motors and they use NSK bearings and US insulated wires and use rare earth magnets. So there goes another US industry!

We got the 4140 steel bar in for the 5C spindle for the 7x10 mini-lathe. We are going to press fit a disk that matches the 4 inch lathe chuck flange on this after we get it bored out and turned by my friend who as a bigger lathe(16 inch). This way the 7x10 can use 5C collets and a homemade collet closer. If this works out,  I may try it on the 8x14 lathe. I just need to get up the nerve after a success with the 7x10.

Take care,

John Ocala Florida

| 619|509|2005-01-06 10:47:44|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 drive belt|
Rob, I think its hopeless in Australia. I see three solutions: put up
with crap belts from X3 dealers, or get new cogwheels with standard
pitch, or Sourcing & importing from overseas. I have to say though,
that the original belt works now. It is still 8-shaped, but the main
problem was the alignment of the motor. There is a bolt pushing from
the head to the bottom side of the motor, with it one can tilt the
motor to adjust belt tracking. By the way, one question: does your
motor too get hot to touch after some 10 minutes running, or do I
have a problem?

It took me about 50 hours to strip this mill to the last bit, correct
fit/finish as far as reasonable, and reassemble. I am glad I did the
spindle too: it was rusting inside, badly. Strange, no rust elsewhere
except inside the spindle. Also I found the fit bearings/spindle a
very tight interference fit, impossible to set preload this way. Had
to use emery cloth to make it a little more free to slide. Also
replaced grease, there was very little of some red stuff iside, but
at least no sand etc. Runout measured inside the taper is less than
my DTI can indicate, eg less than 0.005mm, excellent figure. The
drill chuck is however crap, 0.08mm runout. Tramming needed only 3
shims between base and column, 0.03 and 0.04mm thick on three
corners, plus a long 0.04mm strip for the head (used stainless shim
band). Chris
| 620|620|2005-01-13 01:33:30|Art Lundwall|Mill and lathe selection|
Good afternoon to all.

For the past two months or so, I've been researching mills and lathes
in preparation for a purchase of each. I've joined more Yahoo! groups
than I can count, and I'm starting to see double from all the posts
I've read! I'd like to say that I'm close to a final decision, but
for all my efforts all I've got is a splitting headache! I've
considered all the different types, from true knee mills, to round
column RF31 clones, the mini-mills, and the '45 clones. I've been
leaning towards the .45 clone, but the size and weight are BIG issues
that I'm not sure I can accomodate.

Just today, I came across this group, and started reading about the
X3. Looking at the specs on the website, at first I was not
interested. But some of the posts here, and some of the linked sites,
mention that some of the X3's are now spec'd with larger tables and
more 'z' capability. If this is true, then perhaps I've found the
compromise I've been looking for! The extra 'z' height is the
important issue for me... the 11" version is not tall enough for some
of the projects I'm thinking of, so I have to be sure what I'll be
getting before I order.

So, my questions to all of you are: 1)do all new X3's come with the
14" max spindle-to-table dimension, or is that an option that can/has
to be ordered? 2)Is there someplace where I can see the actual specs
of this machine with the bigger table? 3)are all the X3's in the U.S.
spec'd with an R8 spindle and inch dials, or again, is that something
I have to specify upon ordering? 4)is there any reason that this
machine cannot be equipped with a DRO system like the Shumatech?
5)most of what I'll be doing is gunsmith type work. Handguns only,
and the typical operations I need to do would be milling sight cuts,
serrating slides, and blending magazine wells. Is there any reason
this mill wouldn't be able to handle this work?

I'd call lathemaster and ask them, but their site says they're closed
till 1/18/05, and I'm much too impatient to wait that long:-)

Anyhow, I apologize if some of these questions are too simple, or have
been answered before. I tried to browse all the messages in this
forum, but I could definitely have missed something. Thank you in
advance!

Art
| 621|620|2005-01-13 05:33:32|rustkolector|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Art,
My X3 is from a recent shipment of X3's and has 14.75" spindle to
table height, 6.25" x 21.75" table, R8 spindle, and "inch" dials.
These are standard. As far as I know, there are no special order
options available, but I could be wrong.

The DRO is no problem. You can see photos on one installed at:

http://www.thms.tedatum.com/

Look under the "Visitors Page" for Eirik Skaug's DRO installation.
Also, if you want to order anything from Lathemaster, you better call
Bob. He doesn't respond to email very promptly, if at all.

Jeff
| 622|620|2005-01-13 06:02:35|daddyo217|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Art;
I've been in your shoes and went through the same. I even had a
round column mill/drill and almost did myself in by bringing the
pieces of the machine down stairs to my shop. I got rid of it right
away after checking it out and realizing the limitation of the round
column...

I've recently purchased the X3 from Bob. He is very nice to talk
with and works really well with people. I'd call him and talk with
him - you might have to leave a message if he is out (right now I
think he is on vacation). Anyway I have what he called the "new"
model, or the "2004" model which has the larger dimensions as listed
in post 621 by Rustkolector. I have taken MANY pics of my machine in
the disassembled state, as I had to in order to "carry" it into the
basement workshop. I have NOT cut anything with it, but have drilled
some holes with it. I've had it quite disassembled and think I can
safely say that it is well built. It is not American quality (I've
worked in companies that had the "old" American machines as well as
the newer foriegn brands) but it is good for the money spent and
within my hobby budget. The IMPORTANT surfaces are well finished,
the rest is good enough (and I'm picky!). I'd recommend that you
check Bob out and get a feel for what this machine is - and Bob is
patient to answer your questions too.

So for you, I'd say the quest is (still) on... :)

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" lathes
groups
issues
sites,
some
can/has
specs
U.S.
something
cuts,
closed
have

| 623|623|2005-01-13 06:07:16|daddyo217|What Size Vise for the X3?|
Hey all,
I've got my X3 (the newer, larger version) and purchased a 4"
precision swivel vise. It looks too big for the machine; notice I
said "looks". I am new to milling, although I have been around many
Bridgeports and the like over the years.

What I am wondering is if I should stay with the 4" or trade down
(did I just say that?) to a similar 3" swivel vise? I'm just a
little intimidated by the size of the 4" on the table, as it hangs
out front so far and is so substantial (I know the mass of it is an
advantage but it seems I'll be tripping on it).

Before I purchased my mill I searched this forum for info on what
you all are using for this style of vise (the "Kurt" style swivel
vise) and remember concluding that the 4" was about right. Now that
I have one setting on the mill, I'm not sure...

Any experienced X3 millers out there care to advise? I don't have
any projects planned right now as I really don't have time in the
next couple of weeks for hobby time, so I'm going to be purchasing
some needed tooling for now. I want to have the basics for when I
get back in the shop in February and the precision swivel vise was a
first "must have" for me. Is the 3" size a detriment by comparison?
It seems it would take up much less space on the table and be easier
to work around. But I could be all wet (again).

Also any other comments about initial tooling are also welcome.

Good night to all,
Daddyo
| 624|623|2005-01-13 07:52:41|nowdkyle|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
I have the 3" Kurt type vise on mine (smaller version X3) and like
the proportion. The 4" is quite a bit bigger.
Dick K.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217" many
down
an
what
that
a
comparison?
easier

| 625|620|2005-01-13 08:19:57|bluepalantir|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Art,
I got my X3 about a month after rustkolector and mine has the same
specs as his. I believe all the new shipments Bob is getting will be
this model.

While you're at http://www.thms.tedatum.com/, check out Dan's review
of this mill. His site and this forum finally convinced me that the
X3 was the right choice and I'm very satisified with my purchase. I
had a problem with it initially but help from Bob and this forum
allowed me to fix it quickly.

I'm impressed with the support and advice I've received from Bob, so
much so that I ordered the 8x14 lathe from him. Should clear Customs
at the end of this month.

Good Luck!

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" lathes
groups
issues
sites,
some
can/has
specs
S.
something
closed
have

| 626|623|2005-01-13 10:55:18|cba_melbourne|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Daddyo, I have the Vertex 4" (kurt type) swivel vise on the X3, and
think its just right for general work. The swivel base can come off
and the vise used without, depending on task at hand. I also have a
very low profile 2 1/2" vice for the smaller jobs that would
disappear inside the 4". And a tiny 1 3/4" for the very small and
fragile jobs that would just get squashed in a big vise. If you do a
wide variety of jobs, just one vise alone is not going to hold
everything. I happened to have the two smaller ones from a previous
mill. If I was to buy new, I would rather consider a 2 1/2" sviwel
and tilt vise to complement the 4", because the X3 cannot tilt its
head. Another useful alternative would be a smaller sine vise of the
pull-down type, as recently offerd at reasonable price China made.
Chris
| 627|623|2005-01-13 15:10:32|Patrick Okeeffe|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
I've been using a 3" toolmakers vice which I reckon is about the right size
for what I do. With the bigger table, I have been getting more creative
with 1-2-3 blocks and step clamps to do some work holding, and using the
vice less.

Photos at http://www.gimbal.com.au/metalworking/x3mill.php

Cheers,

Pat

| 628|623|2005-01-13 15:11:52|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Thanks Chris!

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne" and
off
a
a
previous
the

| 629|623|2005-01-13 15:12:47|mineralman55|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
daddyo217,

I have a 3" screwless vise on my X3, and it seems to be the best all-
around choice as it accomodates ~95% of my work. I haven't really
needed anything bigger yet.

I have several other clamping alternatives. I have a clamping kit for
the odd sized parts, and a Harbor Freight 4" tilting vise purchased
for $20. For the price I figured I couldn't go wrong with it as I
needed to make a bunch of angled drillings. It was a surprisingly
nice piece of equipment, very well finished, nice and tight (unlike
most HF stuff).

So the moral is a 4" isn't going to be too big for the X3, especially
the newer model. It just depends on the class of work you do.

LarryO
New Orleans

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217" down
what
a
easier

| 630|623|2005-01-13 15:14:00|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Dick K,
Thanks for the info. I'm trying to decide and yours and others
experience is helpful to me.

Daddyo

| 631|620|2005-01-13 18:52:07|Art Lundwall|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Thanks for the replies. I was going to call lathemaster anyway, now I
just have more questions!

I notice the X3 seems to come in cherry and lime flavors.... It seems
that the red ones I've read about were MT3/metric and the Green ones
were R8/inch. Is this a coincidence? I hope not, I kinda like the
green...

Thanks again.

| 632|620|2005-01-13 19:06:49|john labutski|Re: Mill and lathe selection|

Don't sweat the color. WWW.eastwood.com has imported hammertone green as well as other hammertone colors. I ordered hammertone green from them for painting accessories on my 7045fg lathemaster. Its a very close if not perfect match. I have been thinking of repainting the 8x14 lathemaster green to match my mill. A can covers about 4 or more square feet. They say 6, but plan on two cans.

John

| 633|633|2005-01-13 20:23:15|Green, James|Paint colors|

Any ideas where I can purchase off white paint to match the 8 x 14???

James

From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...]
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:07 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Re: Mill and lathe selection

Don't sweat the color. WWW.eastwood.com has imported hammertone green as well as other hammertone colors. I ordered hammertone green from them for painting accessories on my 7045fg lathemaster. Its a very close if not perfect match. I have been thinking of repainting the 8x14 lathemaster green to match my mill. A can covers about 4 or more square feet. They say 6, but plan on two cans.

John

| 634|633|2005-01-13 21:12:17|john labutski|Re: Paint colors|

The closest paint I have found is an off white epoxy refigerator touch up paint. Since the machine always shows fingerprints, etc. I think I will paint my mine hammertone green. If you don't mind going a bit darker gray, Home Depot and Lowes have a machine/floor paint that is $14.00 per gallon that works well and doesn't chip badly. You just have to thin it out and give the machine about 3 coats while watching for runs.

John

| 635|633|2005-01-13 23:52:36|J. Scotto|Re: Paint colors|
I had asked Bob if there were anyway we could get touch up spray paint for the lathes. Couldn't be that difficult if there were enough requests.

Joe

john labutski | 636|633|2005-01-13 23:54:08|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Paint colors|
You can get a 2 part paint at your local farm store. It is very tough
when dry. You can get the paint in about 15 colors then buy a can of
hardner...Bob
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" touch up paint. Since the machine always shows fingerprints, etc. I
think I will paint my mine hammertone green. If you don't mind going
a bit darker gray, Home Depot and Lowes have a machine/floor paint
that is $14.00 per gallon that works well and doesn't chip badly. You
just have to thin it out and give the machine about 3 coats while
watching for runs.

| 637|637|2005-01-13 23:58:01|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Carbide inserts for sale cheap|
Hi Guys, I just got 50# of carbide inserts, triangles (no 322's left)
squares, rounds, threading, cutoff. I you know the numbers you need
let me know i will save you some money. Plus i have some oddball's
good for the special projects...Bob
| 638|633|2005-01-14 00:02:18|mineralman55|Re: Paint colors|
I thought I was the only one with an off-white colored 8x14. The
color of the 8x14 pictured on the Lathemaster web pages and various
other early ones (including Tedatum) shows a light green colored
lathe. The factory must have changed the color scheme.

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" touch up paint. Since the machine always shows fingerprints, etc. I
think I will paint my mine hammertone green. If you don't mind going
a bit darker gray, Home Depot and Lowes have a machine/floor paint
that is $14.00 per gallon that works well and doesn't chip badly. You
just have to thin it out and give the machine about 3 coats while
watching for runs.

| 639|623|2005-01-14 02:40:07|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Chris,
Do you have a part number or company that I could reference to
see what you are recommending?

"2 1/2" sviwel and tilt vise" ________

"a smaller sine vise of the pull-down type" ________

Thanks again!
Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne" and
off
a
a
previous
the

| 640|623|2005-01-14 02:58:56|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Pat,
I went to your site to see - thanks!

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Patrick Okeeffe"
creative
using the
many
down
hangs
an
what
that
purchasing
was a
comparison?
easier

| 641|623|2005-01-14 03:00:57|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
LarryO,
Sounds good to me... hopefully I'll get back to my
winter "tinkering" in the shop...

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" all-
for
purchased
(unlike
especially
I
many
hangs
an
swivel
that
have
the
purchasing
I
was
comparison?

| 642|620|2005-01-14 08:51:13|edwards3551|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Art, If you have room, consider the 6 x 26 mill that Grizzly is
selling as the G3103. It is available from several vendors. I like
the X3, but I think for the work your doing you might be happier with
the next step up. It is what I am considering to replace my
mill/drill, if I don't end up with a Bridgeport clone. Just an idea.

David E.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" lathes
groups
issues
sites,
some
can/has
specs
U.S.
something
closed
have

| 643|623|2005-01-14 09:02:29|cba_melbourne|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Daddyo, I live in Australia and do not know dealers near you.
However, I pass you on some links so you can see how the vises look
like. It will be easy for you to find them in your country - these
things are made in China or Taiwan and sold around the world by 1,000
dealers.

http://wic015u.server-secure.com/vs4487_secure/dept.asp?id=42

look at 110050 and 110051 for what I meant. I think these are
Taiwanese Vertex.

Look at item 110121 in the same link. These "pull down" style vises
are made in many sizes, almost every dealer stocks a range, some call
them tool maker vise. Can't find a pic right now, but their sine
vises looks exatly the same, except for an added baseplate and two
round bars under the vise. To use, you calculate (or look up in a
table) the sine of the angle you need, then put a stack of shims or
blocks of the according height under on of the two bars. Chris
| 644|620|2005-01-14 09:57:27|Art Lundwall|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
I've been looking VERY closely at the 3102. In fact, I was looking at
the messages in the 6x36 group when I learned about this group. I
really like the idea of a benchtop knee mill. I especially like the
belt drive. Quiet, smooth, simple.

But, the 3102/3103 pose some problems for me. First, the max spindle
to table distance is much too short. I don't know that I'm capable of
fabbing my own riser block as my first project, but I'll need the
extra z height almost immediately.

Second is the size... This is a big strike against both the 3102 and
the 45 clones. They have to go in my garage, and space is limited.
Unlike many of my neighbors, I actually park my VEHICLES in the
garage. But there is also a workbench, reloading bench, freezer,
blast cabinet...etc. The X3 can go on my workbench.

Finally, the price.... I can afford the 3102, and the associated
delivery charges, but just barely. It would mean putting off the
purchase of the 8x14 lathe indefinetly. Especially since I just found
out that I have to donate to the national debt on april 15th (sure
wish I could claim my beagles as dependants).

SO, see why I have a headache? I just don't know WHAT to do!!

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "edwards3551" with
but
the
and
the
only,
cuts,
reason

| 645|623|2005-01-14 16:27:01|daddyo217|Re: What Size Vise for the X3?|
Thanks Chris!

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne" to
look
1,000
vises
call
or

| 646|620|2005-01-15 01:37:38|edwards3551|Re: Mill and lathe selection|
Art, at this point it appears a simple decision. The 6 x 36 won't
work for you! Order the X3 and enjoy making some chips. Add the lathe
and you are set. Don't beat yourself up over it. I just figured the 6
X 36 would be a bit heaftier and make better quality cuts. If it
don't work for you, it don't work for you! Go with what fits your
budget first of all with space being a close second consideration.

David E.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" at
spindle
of
found

| 647|633|2005-01-15 09:55:05|uptoolateman|Re: Paint colors|
When I built my new control box I wanted the color to match so I took
the steady rest down to an autobody paint store and the guy there
custom mixed up a pint for me. It was a little spendy because I got a
disposable sprayer and the thinner only came in quart size or larger,
somewhere around $40.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" 14???
green
8x14
square
anyway,
It
Green
like
getting
Dan's
to
not
enough
that
that
any
in
Thank
subject=Unsubscribe Terms

| 648|648|2005-01-17 18:05:31|mineralman55|Turning Stainless REvisited|
I did some turning on stainless this weekend, and it was interesting
to say the least. I was reducing 1" bars to 0.75 inch diameter.
Started out with a new 80 deg., brazed carbide bit at 210 rpm, taking
a 0.015" cut. I used the slowest feed available on the leadscrew. The
chips came off in long strings, blue, with occasional instantaneous
sparks and fire at the bit as the chips peeled off the bar (fun to
watch but not dangerous). Yes, that indicates too fast, but that's
only about 55 ft/min surface speed, and the finish was spectacular.

As the bar became about 0.8 inch diameter (translating to 44 ft/min),
the chips became much smaller and didn't turn blue, but the surface
finish became dull gray and nowhere near as good as the beginning
speed/feed combination.

Is this typical with stainless? Also, should I be trying to take
deeper cuts, maybe about 0.020-0.025"? I'm not sure the lathe will
handle more. How do I get that fantastic finish back?

Larry
| 649|648|2005-01-18 14:20:01|Green, James|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|

I would be turning up the RPM's. I use carbide to make rough cuts and pull out the HSS insert cutters for that finishing cut.

4 x CS / D = RPM

4 x 50 / 1 = 200 HSS tool bit

4 x 50 / 1 x 3 = 600 Carbide tool bit

Scale back on the speed to 420 if the feed rate is too fast at 620......

James

From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 11:05 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Turning Stainless REvisited

I did some turning on stainless this weekend, and it was interesting to say the least. I was reducing 1" bars to 0.75 inch diameter. Started out with a new 80 deg., brazed carbide bit at 210 rpm, taking a 0.015" cut. I used the slowest feed available on the leadscrew. The chips came off in long strings, blue, with occasional instantaneous sparks and fire at the bit as the chips peeled off the bar (fun to watch but not dangerous). Yes, that indicates too fast, but that's only about 55 ft/min surface speed, and the finish was spectacular. As the bar became about 0.8 inch diameter (translating to 44 ft/min), the chips became much smaller and didn't turn blue, but the surface finish became dull gray and nowhere near as good as the beginning speed/feed combination. Is this typical with stainless? Also, should I be trying to take deeper cuts, maybe about 0.020-0.025"? I'm not sure the lathe will handle more. How do I get that fantastic finish back? Larry
| 650|648|2005-01-18 16:36:28|mineralman55|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|
How about the depth of cut? At 420-600 rpm, what is a reasonable
depth of cut for our 8x14s?

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
620......
interesting
taking
The
instantaneous
ft/min),
surface
subject=Unsubscribe
| 651|648|2005-01-18 16:47:28|Green, James|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|

I would try for .020 and get those blue chips back into play. I normally only take off .030 - .035 on CRS and can get the blue chips to fly with carbide........

James

From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 9:36 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Turning Stainless REvisited

How about the depth of cut? At 420-600 rpm, what is a reasonable depth of cut for our 8x14s? Larry --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" rough cuts and cut. 200 HSS tool bit bit too fast at 620...... ________________________________ [mailto:Larryo55@c...] To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com REvisited this weekend, and it was interesting reducing 1" bars to 0.75 inch diameter. brazed carbide bit at 210 rpm, taking slowest feed available on the leadscrew. The strings, blue, with occasional instantaneous bit as the chips peeled off the bar (fun to Yes, that indicates too fast, but that's speed, and the finish was spectacular. 0.8 inch diameter (translating to 44 ft/min), smaller and didn't turn blue, but the surface gray and nowhere near as good as the beginning combination. trying to take lathe will back? Links group on the web, go to: href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/" *      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/" .
| 652|648|2005-01-18 17:19:29|John Labutski|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|
I agree with James on the turning rates and feeds. But I have a
couple of questions for you. What grade of SS are you using? Have you
tried annealing the stainless? I have found that the kitchen oven on
the highest setting or the "clean cycle" works very well for
annealing stainless. 500 plus degrees for an hour or so will work
well. Then just drop the temperature 100 degrees every 15 minutes and
let the oven drop to room temperature. This has worked well for me in
the past. Place the SS on the rack with the rack at the highest
position in the oven.

Also try different cutter height settings. Also try grinding a
different rake on the bit. In industry because of the dangers of long
spiral swarf as sharp as a razor blade, there has been a push to
generate chips by using negative rakes. However the same result can
be obtained by adding a strip of steel to act as a chip breaker just
above the lathe bit. This forces the strip coming off to break off
readily.

John

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" interesting
taking
The
ft/min),

| 653|648|2005-01-18 20:47:00|mineralman55|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|
Days off are nice. It's 316 stainless steel (written on each bar in
Sharpie ink). No, I haven't annealed it, and really don't want to. I
think I'll first up the rpm to 420 and try that with 0.020 depth of
cut. If that works out okay, I'll up the rpm to 620.

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" you
on
and
in
long
can
just
leadscrew.
instantaneous
to
that's
spectacular.
surface
beginning
will

| 654|648|2005-01-19 05:49:31|mineralman55|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|
Well, I upped the speed to 420, then 620 rpm. Geez, what a
difference! The carbide started cutting in great smooth swaths thru
the stainless. Up to 0.030 depth of cut, it just made a
muffled "swishing" sound as the swarf came off in small pieces. I'm
amazed at the differences a small change in rpm can make.

I also wonder if the bar I started with wasn't hardened? The cutting
changed drastically after I went about 0.100" in.

Also, what did you mean by different cutter heights? Above
centerline, below centerline? I always set my dead on centerline.

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" you
on
and
in
long
can
just
leadscrew.
instantaneous
to
that's
spectacular.
surface
beginning
will

| 655|648|2005-01-19 15:09:31|Green, James|Re: Turning Stainless REvisited|

You can also improve the finish by slowing down the feed rate. Yes I know .005 is the slowest feed rate possible with the current gearing. I replaced the 35 and 90 tooth gears with 25 and 100 tooth gears and noticed a nice improvement.

Like you I also run my cutters on dead centerline but will change the tool bit to a negitive rake when forming turning softer material..........

James

From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 10:49 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Turning Stainless REvisited

Well, I upped the speed to 420, then 620 rpm. Geez, what a difference! The carbide started cutting in great smooth swaths thru the stainless. Up to 0.030 depth of cut, it just made a muffled "swishing" sound as the swarf came off in small pieces. I'm amazed at the differences a small change in rpm can make. I also wonder if the bar I started with wasn't hardened? The cutting changed drastically after I went about 0.100" in. Also, what did you mean by different cutter heights? Above centerline, below centerline? I always set my dead on centerline. Larry --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" that's spectacular. diameter (translating to 44 much smaller and didn't turn blue, but the surface became dull gray and nowhere near as good as the beginning speed/feed combination. stainless? Also, should I be trying to take about 0.020-0.025"? I'm not sure the lathe will How do I get that fantastic finish back? Larry
| 656|656|2005-01-24 03:58:10|Art Lundwall|X3 Mill|
Several people replied to my post asking about the X3 mill. Thanks to
all of you. I have also spoken to Bob at Lathemasters, and between
all this info, it seems the X3 will work fine for the projects I'm
looking to work on.

But, I've been unable to find the actual numbers for the travel of the
table in X and Y. The Sieg website has dimensions for the old
version, with the small table. I don't know if, or by how much, those
dimensions changed with the addition of a larger table. The main
reason I want to know is so I can select scales of the appropriate
size to use with a DRO.

Can someone who has a later model X3 mill tell me the actual distances
for table travel in X and Y?

Thanks very much,

Art
| 657|656|2005-01-24 10:51:00|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 Mill|
Art, Y travel is 150mm = 5.9", and X travel is slightly over 400mm =
16". The X travel can easily be increased to slightly over 450mm =
18" by a slight modification to the left leadscrew bearing plate that
hits the stationary dovetail by a small prtion of its edges. BTW,
this bearing plate is meant to accept an optional power feed. Chris
| 658|658|2005-01-24 15:21:36|Green, James|New 3 jaw chuck and Terminal strip|

Finally found the time over the past weekend to install my Bison 5" 3 jaw chuck. Upon completion I took a 1/2" ground shaft and measured the run out. I took three sets of measurements since I tightened up the piece by using one chuck key hole. Removed the piece and tightened with the 2nd chuck key hole and repeated the process for the third chuck key hole.

TIR

1/4" from chuck .00025 - .0004

1" from chuck .0005 - .0008

2" from chuck .0008 - .0015

3" from chuck .0015 - .002

Any distance greater than 3" and most people will use a live center in the tail stock.

Last week I stalled the motor on my lathe a few time when trying to perform a large radius cut and I ended up melting the plastic terminal strip inside the electrical enclosure. I came very close on fusing the AC hot and neutral leads together. Good thing that Radio Shack is located close by.

James Green
| 659|656|2005-01-24 18:06:16|Art Lundwall|Re: X3 Mill|
Thanks very much Chris, that's what I needed to know. I didn't know
about the mod for the X-travel, do you have a link to some details
about this?

Thanks again,
Art

| 660|658|2005-01-24 19:23:37|mineralman55|Re: New 3 jaw chuck and Terminal strip|
I ordered my 8x14 with the 5" 3-jaw. It's not the Bison, but what a
difference having a chuck that size makes! The lathe ought to come
standard with it it's so good.

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" 3
the
with
key
in
terminal
the

| 661|656|2005-01-24 19:27:27|daddyo217|Re: X3 Mill|
Chris;
I have the table power-feed and will have to look into this mod
you mentioned about the extra travel. I'm not sure that I could get
any more travel with it though because the power-feed "box" might be
in the way. I still have to mount the autostop switch to the cross
feed saddle before I can even THINK about using the powerfeed.

I also think the extra travel that would be made possible with
your suggestion may not allow the left travel-stop to be mounted to
the slot on the front face of the table. I'll have to post some pics
as it is hard to put in words.

Looks like I have another thing to consider, now that you've made
me curious! Still have to make some chips - just too much going on,
as usual...

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne" =
that

| 662|662|2005-01-24 19:48:00|Herb Mueller|X3 Mill cost|
Could anyone give me an idea as to how much this mill costs? I will be getting
some equipment this spring (Lathe and Mill), and have narrowed the search to
the X-3 or ZAY7045, and the BV20BL lathe. Lathemaster's current web site has
the ZAY7045 at $1395.00. From all the posts concerning the X-3 it looks like it
would be a better bet for my purpose if it was cheaper. Thanks for any info.

Herb Mueller
Sherman, TX
| 663|658|2005-01-24 20:12:56|Green, James|Re: New 3 jaw chuck and Terminal strip|

I picked the Bison chuck because of the two piece jaws.......

Did you have any problems getting the adapter plate to fit the 8 x 14 for your 5" 3-jaw chuck???

James

From: mineralman55 [mailto:Larryo55@...]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 12:22 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: New 3 jaw chuck and Terminal strip

I ordered my 8x14 with the 5" 3-jaw. It's not the Bison, but what a difference having a chuck that size makes! The lathe ought to come standard with it it's so good. Larry --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" wrote: Bison 5" 3 shaft and measured the measurements since I tightened up the hole. Removed the piece and tightened with hole and repeated the process for the third chuck key hole. .0004 .0008 - .0015 Any distance greater than 3" and most people will use a live center in motor on my lathe a few time when trying to and I ended up melting the plastic terminal electrical enclosure. I came very close on fusing the and neutral leads together. Good thing that Radio Shack is close by.
| 664|662|2005-01-24 20:20:35|Bob Berg|Re: X3 Mill cost|
I paid about $1090.00 delivered, that was a year ago.

-----Original Message-----
From: Herb Mueller [mailto:c-mueller1@...]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 10:48 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] X3 Mill cost

Could anyone give me an idea as to how much this mill costs? I will be
getting
some equipment this spring (Lathe and Mill), and have narrowed the
search to
the X-3 or ZAY7045, and the BV20BL lathe. Lathemaster's current web site
has
the ZAY7045 at $1395.00. From all the posts concerning the X-3 it looks
like it
would be a better bet for my purpose if it was cheaper. Thanks for any
info.

Herb Mueller
Sherman, TX

Yahoo! Groups Links
| 665|662|2005-01-24 21:26:31|Bell, Gregory K|Re: X3 Mill cost|

I talked to Bob on Friday. He said the X3 sells for $895, and that he has a few machines in stock. BTW, what everyone has said on this group about how nice Bob is to talk to is absolutely right. I'm new to the hobby and haven't bought any kind of machine or tooling. Bob and I talked for over 30 minutes. He answered every question I had. Now I'm sure that the 8 x 14 is the right machine for me.

Greg Bell

Westerville, OH

| 666|662|2005-01-24 21:38:06|Green, James|Re: X3 Mill cost|

Greg

I currently own a 8 x 14 and sometimes wonder about the 9 x 20. What did Bob state to make you change your mind from the 9 x 20 to the 8 x 14????

James

From: Bell, Gregory K [mailto:gbell@...]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 1:25 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [lathemaster] X3 Mill cost

I talked to Bob on Friday. He said the X3 sells for $895, and that he has a few machines in stock. BTW, what everyone has said on this group about how nice Bob is to talk to is absolutely right. I'm new to the hobby and haven't bought any kind of machine or tooling. Bob and I talked for over 30 minutes. He answered every question I had. Now I'm sure that the 8 x 14 is the right machine for me.

Greg Bell

Westerville, OH

| 667|662|2005-01-24 23:49:11|Bell, Gregory K|Re: X3 Mill cost|

I never really had decided on a 9 x 20. In fact, I was looking at the 7x machines (Harbor Freight, Cummins, Enco, etc.) when I stumbled onto Bob's website. The 8 x 14 seems so much beefier than those 7x's, and, not knowing exactly what I want to do with a mini lathe, I thought going to a bit bigger machine (the 8 x 14) would allow me some flexiblity in the kinds of projects I could handle. And, like most of the folks in this group, I have limited space and budget. At this point in my pursuit of the hobby, the 8 x 14 seems to fit my needs well.

Greg Bell

| 668|656|2005-01-25 03:50:40|bluepalantir|Re: X3 Mill|
Daddyo,
Do you have Sieg power feed made for the X3? Unfortunately Bob is out
of them right now and won't be getting any more for a couple of
months...drats! Can you post a picture of your power feed? I'm
guessing that its similar to the one made for the mini-mill.

Thanks,
Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217" Chris
| 669|662|2005-01-25 03:56:32|bluepalantir|Re: X3 Mill cost|
Herb,
I paid $1035 for mine in November including shipping from Baton Rogue,
LA to Austin, TX. Base price for it was $895.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, Herb Mueller be getting
search to
site has
looks like it
any info.

| 670|656|2005-01-25 04:58:23|daddyo217|Re: X3 Mill|
Mitchell,
I got the last one (hehe)! I put a couple of pics up in a hurry
tonight in a new folder called "Daddyo" - check them out....

You'll see that in the closeup pic that I have not fastened the
autostop switchblock to the saddle somewhere (it is not marked - you
have to determine where). You have to drill and tap two holes for
the switch block. Then you move the spring stops on the front of the
table to the location you want the table to stop feeding. I played
around with the powerfeed a bit and I think it will work out. I have
drilled with the machine, but have not used any milling cutters
(yet). Believe me, you want the powerfeed to stop! The unit will
just knock into the travel limits and it doesn't sound pretty! It
blows a fuse. Don't ask me how I know.

Sleep tight,
Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "bluepalantir" out
mod
get
might be
cross
with
to
pics
made
on,
450mm =
plate
BTW,

| 671|671|2005-01-25 04:58:25|daddyo217|New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
All,
I have uploaded a couple of pics of my X-3 (2004 model) with the
table powerfeed. Check them out! The folder is called "Daddyo" of
course.

Daddyo
| 672|656|2005-01-25 08:25:54|bluepalantir|Re: X3 Mill (Power feed)|
Lucky you! The power feed looks really nice, worth waiting a couple
months for. If you get a chance, please take a close up of the face,
I'd like to see if it has a quick traverse switch\button....Bob
thought there was one. Is there a way to disengage the power feed if
you want to use the hand wheel for fine adjustment without the drag
introduced by the power feed connection? Probably not seeing that its
a pretty compact unit.

I was just about to add mechanical stops to the table like other
members have but then I found out about this power feed. So now I'll
just wait for Bob to get them in then drill/tap for the stop block
that comes with the kit.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217"
| 673|656|2005-01-25 10:06:34|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 Mill|
Daddyo, thank you very much for the pics. I did not know the power
feed was already available. May I ask how much it cost you?
Only if you have time, any chance you could make some pics on how its
made inside? Or maybe if you got an exploded parts list with it, a
scan of it?

After seeing your pics, you could only gain some 1/2" travel by
modifying the left leadscrew bracket. Then the feed box would hit the
dovetail. That is, unless you find a way to mount the device some 2"
further to the left. Chris
| 674|656|2005-01-25 10:21:24|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 Mill|
Art, no link, and I have not done it yet either. But its only a
matter of milling off a very little metal from the contour of the
bracket. There where the bracket hits the lower dovetails. They made
the bracket to look nice, instead of following the dovetail contours.
Its actually so little, that I think I may as well file it off -
guess a dozen strokes with a bastard file it all that's needed. If
you look at it, its very obvious. Chris

PS: I may mention another mod I was forced to do. When I tried to
adjust the gibs, I was puzzled why the hell the gib does not press
flat and parallel to the dovetail. It touched at bottom only, and the
more I tightened the setscrews, the more did the top of the gib lift
off from the dovetail. And quite a lot, I could look through the gap.
It was the setscrews. They are pointed, and the point is meant to sit
in a "center" hole in the gib strip. However, in my case the setscrew
thread did hit the gib before the tip, and this caused the gib to
tilt. Simple solution, I took new high tensile setscrews, turned the
tapered tip on them, and turned away the threads for about 1/8" right
after the taper. Now it works as intended. Chances are this is a
genrtal problem affecting an entire batch of mills.
| 675|656|2005-01-25 10:54:14|Patrick Okeeffe|Re: X3 Mill|
Speaking of power feed - has anybody seen one for this mill? Are Seig going
to ship one?

| 676|676|2005-01-25 15:41:58|Herb Mueller|Re: Lathemaster X3 cost|
Thanks for all the feedback on the cost of the X3. I should be coming into a
bit of money in a few months and the advise and information from all that
replied is GREATLY appreciated. I will probably be ordering a BV20BL and the
X3. This sounds like the perfect pair for a small shop that will be mostly a
hobby. Thanks again for all the responses.

Herb Mueller
Sherman, TX
| 677|671|2005-01-25 19:18:50|uptoolateman|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
Daddyo,
How did you mount your power feed to the table? I got one of the
first powerfeed units from Bob and it didn't have any mounting
hardware, brackets or instructions. The bracket on the left end of
my table has a stub that sticks out 1" from the table and the
leadscrew also sticks out 1" from the end of the table so even if I
modified the bracket the screw would still be too far out.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217" the

| 678|671|2005-01-25 19:48:24|daddyo217|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
Mike,
Mine was ready to mount up. Very simple - Bob told me that this
newer model X-3 (2004) was made to accept the powerfeed. The only
difficulty is in mounting the stop block switch...

The cost was around $175 for the powerfeed. There are no
instructions nor parts list that I know about...

When I get a chance I'll see if I snapped any pics of the powerfeed
internals....

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" I
of

| 679|679|2005-01-26 05:15:22|daddyo217|New Photo Folder - Daddyo (update)|
Hi all,
Check out the new pics and folders in my Daddyo folder (did a
little rearranging).

Hope this helps someone. Tryin' to give a little back.

Good night,
Daddyo
| 680|671|2005-01-26 05:17:52|daddyo217|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
Mike,
I uploaded some pics tonight. Hope it helps. If I ever remove the
powerfeed drive cover, I'll try to remember to take more detailed
pics...

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" I
of

| 681|679|2005-01-26 07:13:05|bluepalantir|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo (update)|
Daddyo,
Thanks very much for posting the great photos! Geez, the power feed
looks very substantial, both the motor and mounting.

Mitchell

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217"
| 682|671|2005-01-26 07:28:04|uptoolateman|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
Daddyo,
Looks like the bearing plate on the left end of your table is
different than mine, my X3 is also a 2004 model and the leadscrew is
slotted to accept the powerfeed, but the bearing plate has a stub
that extends 1" out along with the leadscrew. I was thinking about
putting a dog clutch in between the powerfeed and leadscrew so I
would have to modify the bearing plate anyway.

Thanks for the pictures

mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "daddyo217" the
the
of
if
with

| 683|671|2005-01-26 14:02:58|daddyo217|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo|
Mike,
I'm not sure what you mean by stub, but mine had a rounded "cap"
protecting the sloted leadscrew end. It comes off and the powerfeed
mounting plate mounts up just right. As for a clutch, I don't think
you need one because the crank is easy enough to turn even with the
motor attached. You may think differently - I haven't milled yet. I
have used the powerfeed a LOT since measuring the tolerances of the
machine. Back and forth, back and forth with an indicator. The
powerfeed was nice to have for that - and the "quick run" feature is
nice too. That's the big button nearest to the table on the control
panel of the powerfeed. You might ask Bob B. about fitting to your
machine - he is quite knowledgable about these babies...

Daddyo

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" is
detailed
end

| 684|679|2005-01-26 14:03:34|cba_melbourne|Re: New Photo Folder - Daddyo (update)|
Daddyo, great pics, thanks for taking the time. The feed motor looks
quite big, it could well be the drive motor from the micromill (X1).
I was thinking of converting a hand held battery drill motor/gearbox
unit. But if somebody imports this power feed to down under, I may
consider the ready built unit. Chris
| 685|658|2005-01-27 08:35:32|mineralman55|Re: New 3 jaw chuck and Terminal strip|
Actually, as I ordered it with the 5", Bob had already installed the
adapter/5" chuck combo when I picked it up. It doesn't look like
much, just some SHCS thru the back of the spindle to the adapter,
then more SHCS from the adapter to the chuck.

Larry

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
a
measured
the
tightened
chuck
center
to
fusing
is
subject=Unsubscribe
| 686|686|2005-01-28 01:36:27|cannon_redford|8x14 lathe shipments?|
Has anyone actually purchased and received a 8x14 lathe in the last 3
months?
I thought I was on a waiting list since November, and have some money
to spend.
| 687|686|2005-01-28 16:54:05|flyflybob|Re: 8x14 lathe shipments?|
Hello,

I had inquired about purchasing one also. Bob from Lathemaster e-
mailed me and said he expects a shipment in about 3 weeks.

Bob

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cannon_redford" last 3
money

| 688|688|2005-01-30 07:12:31|Bob Dellicker|8x14 & X3 - Ship together or separate?|
I'm interested in both the Lathemaster 8x14 lathe and the X3 mill.
I know that at least a few of you have both.
Does anyone know if there's an advantage to having them shipped
together rather than as separate shipments?

Thanks in advance for your input.
Bob
| 689|688|2005-01-30 17:04:12|john labutski|Re: 8x14 & X3 - Ship together or separate?|

At a minimum you will save one tailgate charge. Also, since you will be shipping 700 lbs some carriers will give you a discount for the amount over 500 lbs and may waive any tailgate charge. Bob at Lathemaster can answer these questions.

John

| 690|688|2005-01-31 13:30:53|Tim|Re: 8x14 & X3 - Ship together or separate?|
I am betting that it will be tough to get them shipped together, and
if you try, you will end up waiting quite awhile. It seems that
Lathemaster gets infrequent shipments of both, and they usually fly
out the door since Bob probably has an order for every single machine
long before he gets it. It is not like he is going to pull one of
each from his shelf, shrinkwrap them together, and ship them to you.'

I doubt it will affect your shipping costs.
| 691|691|2005-01-31 20:56:40|James|BV20 Hmmm, Little Problem|
Hello all. Bought myself a Lathemaster BV20 for Christmas last year,
and have run into a little problem.
While the 3 jaw fits like a glove, the 4 jaw chuck won't mount.
There's a "chuck plate" pressed onto the spindle, with three holes at
120 degrees apart. Matches the 3 jaw just fine. I found out this AM
that the 4 jaw has 4 holes at 90 degrees. Any suggestions? I really
need to mount this chuck...

TIA,

James
| 692|691|2005-01-31 21:03:14|Green, James|Re: BV20 Hmmm, Little Problem|

Sounds like Bob didn't send you an adaptor plate for your 4 jaw chuck........

James

From: James [mailto:jms_marino@...]
Sent: Monday, January 31, 2005 1:24 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] BV20 Hmmm, Little Problem

Hello all. Bought myself a Lathemaster BV20 for Christmas last year, and have run into a little problem. While the 3 jaw fits like a glove, the 4 jaw chuck won't mount. There's a "chuck plate" pressed onto the spindle, with three holes at 120 degrees apart. Matches the 3 jaw just fine. I found out this AM that the 4 jaw has 4 holes at 90 degrees. Any suggestions? I really need to mount this chuck... TIA, James
| 693|691|2005-01-31 22:31:45|James|Re: BV20 Hmmm, Little Problem|
No, he didn't. Should he have? (Was it supposed to be included?)

James

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
| 694|691|2005-01-31 23:22:33|Doug Walker|Re: BV20 Hmmm, Little Problem|
Hi James,
I had the same problem, and got the adapter plate from Bob.
Unfortunately the adapter plate looked like the old Chinese tools--
poorly machined from a poor casting. I bolted it to the back of the
4 jaw chuck with the 4 bolts and using a drill press picked up the 3
holes and tapped them so that I do not need to use the adapter
plate. I used a metric tap so it uses the same bolts. I suppose you
could put the chuck on the spindle flange and scribe where the holes
are and drill the holes. The holes do not need to be perfect, the
flange on the spindle does the alignment of the chuck.
Good luck,
Doug

| 695|695|2005-02-01 07:37:19|Art Lundwall|I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
First, let me say that Bob from Lathemasters is a heck of a nice guy.
Not only did he permit me to come get my mill on a Saturday, he also
spent an hour or so letting me nose around his shop and look at all
the machines he has. Bob has one of everything he sells in his own
shop.

I agonized over the choice of a new mill. I considered all of them,
including the round column mills, and the small knee mills. In the
end, it was between the X3 and the '45 mill. But after seeing both in
his shop, I'm convinced I made the right decision. The X3 is bigger
than I had envisioned, which is a good thing. But I was totally
unprepared for the size of the '45 and their clones. While it looks
like a really nice mill, it's WAY too big for my garage!

I was also able to check out all the lathes. I am planning on buying
an 8x14, and this gave me the opportunity to look at one beforehand.
It was, if anything, a little nicer than I had expected.

And so, after loading the mill, and wasting an hour of Bob's time with
newbie questions, I was on my way back for the 7 hour return drive. A
long, but thoroughly enjoyable day. I should have it on a stand and
making chips by weeks end, with any luck! I finished assembling my
DRO350 yesterday, and it programmed and operated perfectly right out
of the gate. Now I need to get the actual scales I'll use on the
mill, and figure out a way to mount the z-axis scale to the quill.

Thank you to those who offered their opinions on selecting a mill.

Art Lundwall
| 696|695|2005-02-01 09:41:58|cba_melbourne|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
Art, I am just assembing my second dro-350 (first is on the lathe).
I think there is enogh space inside the X3 column for a scale. Chris
| 697|695|2005-02-01 10:09:59|Art Lundwall|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
You know, after looking at literally dozens of pictures of scales
attached between the quill and the head, it never occurred to me to
consider attaching it in the column. But now that you say that, it
makes more sense. I would really be interested in hearing more about
what you're thinking along these lines.

Art

| 698|695|2005-02-01 15:34:12|Green, James|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|

What type of scales are you planning on using???? Granted I haven't followed all the posts but some of the guys on the ShumaTech board are using Jenix glass scales with their DRO 350.......

James

From: Art Lundwall [mailto:aclundwall@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 12:37 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday

First, let me say that Bob from Lathemasters is a heck of a nice guy. Not only did he permit me to come get my mill on a Saturday, he also spent an hour or so letting me nose around his shop and look at all the machines he has. Bob has one of everything he sells in his own shop. I agonized over the choice of a new mill. I considered all of them, including the round column mills, and the small knee mills. In the end, it was between the X3 and the '45 mill. But after seeing both in his shop, I'm convinced I made the right decision. The X3 is bigger than I had envisioned, which is a good thing. But I was totally unprepared for the size of the '45 and their clones. While it looks like a really nice mill, it's WAY too big for my garage! I was also able to check out all the lathes. I am planning on buying an 8x14, and this gave me the opportunity to look at one beforehand. It was, if anything, a little nicer than I had expected. And so, after loading the mill, and wasting an hour of Bob's time with newbie questions, I was on my way back for the 7 hour return drive. A long, but thoroughly enjoyable day. I should have it on a stand and making chips by weeks end, with any luck! I finished assembling my DRO350 yesterday, and it programmed and operated perfectly right out of the gate. Now I need to get the actual scales I'll use on the mill, and figure out a way to mount the z-axis scale to the quill.    Thank you to those who offered their opinions on selecting a mill. Art Lundwall
| 699|695|2005-02-01 16:14:10|Bob Berg|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|

James,

I also have an X3 fitted with a DRO350. It works great.   I notice you mentioned about adding a scale to the quill.   You *may* find that you don’t need to add it to the quill but the actual head. I don’t use the quill movement for anything but drilling holes like a drill press. All my other Z movement are done with the head and the Z axis hand wheel. Personally I thought fitting the Y axis with a dro scale (modified 6” digital caliper) was difficult, not much room to work with under the table.

But you are going to love the mill with the DRO.

Bob

From: Green, James [mailto:james.green@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 6:33 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [lathemaster] I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday

What type of scales are you planning on using???? Granted I haven't followed all the posts but some of the guys on the ShumaTech board are using Jenix glass scales with their DRO 350.......

James

From: Art Lundwall [mailto:aclundwall@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 12:37 AM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday

First, let me say that Bob from Lathemasters is a heck of a nice guy.
Not only did he permit me to come get my mill on a Saturday, he also
spent an hour or so letting me nose around his shop and look at all
the machines he has. Bob has one of everything he sells in his own
shop.

I agonized over the choice of a new mill. I considered all of them,
including the round column mills, and the small knee mills. In the
end, it was between the X3 and the '45 mill. But after seeing both in
his shop, I'm convinced I made the right decision. The X3 is bigger
than I had envisioned, which is a good thing. But I was totally
unprepared for the size of the '45 and their clones. While it looks
like a really nice mill, it's WAY too big for my garage!

I was also able to check out all the lathes. I am planning on buying
an 8x14, and this gave me the opportunity to look at one beforehand.
It was, if anything, a little nicer than I had expected.

And so, after loading the mill, and wasting an hour of Bob's time with
newbie questions, I was on my way back for the 7 hour return drive. A
long, but thoroughly enjoyable day. I should have it on a stand and
making chips by weeks end, with any luck! I finished assembling my
DRO350 yesterday, and it programmed and operated perfectly right out
of the gate. Now I need to get the actual scales I'll use on the
mill, and figure out a way to mount the z-axis scale to the quill.

Thank you to those who offered their opinions on selecting a mill.

Art Lundwall

| 700|695|2005-02-01 16:57:47|john labutski|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|

Well Art all I have to say is Welcome to the Lathemaster family. All of us are really quite happy with the products and service from Bob at Lathemaster. I have the 7045fg and the 8x14 and have been very happy with them. Other than minor cleanup, you are ready to rock and roll with these machines. In the past, I have had a new BP mill and a new 16" Mori-Seiki lathe. Bob's products have this same feel when you operate them. If you run lathes in the past, you are going to love the 8x14 when you get it. There is no way to put it other than its just plain nice. As you add accessories, don't get sucked in by some of the cheap prices from HF. Bob has excellent quality accessories such as boring heads, live centers, etc. I really like his cobalt lathe bits. Also delivery is superior from Bob. If he says he has the product, he has it. Its not like HF where its on a "slow boat from China" and you may get it 2 or 3 months. With regard to Bob being great to deal with, I agree 100%. He is just plain enjoyable and knowledgeable to speak with. I kind of wish he was a neighbor.

Again congratulations on a wise choice.

John Ocala Florida

From: Art Lundwall

| 701|695|2005-02-01 17:32:15|mineralman55|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" centers, etc. I really like his cobalt lathe bits. Also delivery is
superior from Bob. If he says he has the product, he has it.

I try to buy all my tooling from Bob, as everything I've gotten has
been great. On a recent trip to his shop I bought some 3/8" brazed
carbide bits that were head and shoulders above other similar bits
I've purchased through some mail order places (I'm not denigrating
mail order places. I've purchased some fine Putnam specialty endmills
from Enco). Also Bob's live center with the interchangable tips is
excellent on my 8x14. I can't wait to try out the 1/2" indexable
carbide insert bits I recently bought.

Besides, it's fun to ogle the machines and talk shop and plans with
such a knowledgable machinist.

Larry
New Orleans
| 702|695|2005-02-01 17:35:57|Art Lundwall|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
I'm going to use Chinese scales, at least initially. If I understand
correctly, to use the Jenix scales, you also need a quadrature encoder
for each scale. I'm no electrical whiz... I think I may have used up
all my soldering karma putting the DRO 350 together. Not sure I'll be
so lucky with the additional encoders.

Art

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"
| 703|695|2005-02-01 17:45:27|Art Lundwall|Re: I just got my new X3 mill on Saturday|
Bob,
I was the one who mentioned adding the scale to the quill, but a later
post by Chris made me realize that this would be a mistake. I was
just so used to seeing pics of installations where the z axis was on
the quill that I didn't think of it any other way!

Can you elaborate on how you went about adding the scale to the head?
Actually, any tips at all would be helpful.

Thanks

Art Lundwall

| 704|704|2005-02-02 03:52:56|edmcdwll|Where is Bob?|
I have been trying to reach Bob since last Thursday all I get is his
wife on the recording and no return phone call. Just want to know if
his shipment of lathes is on the way or at the bottom of the
Pacific.
Has anyone spoken to him since 1/27?
ed
| 705|704|2005-02-02 04:01:32|john labutski|Re: Where is Bob?|

Just look at the weather reports for the southeast including LA.

John

| 706|704|2005-02-02 07:25:28|bluepalantir|Re: Where is Bob?|
I talked to him on Monday about the lathe shipment (mine is in this
batch). They cleared Customs in Los Angeles but it seems there's a
small shipping snafu and he guesstimated they should reach him in two
to three weeks.

| 707|707|2005-02-03 01:05:40|Bill Wilkins|Machining???|
Does anybody do any machining? Or are we playing Where's Waldo?

Alot of the posts are getting boring unless your buying a lathe/mill
or trying to get ahold of Bob.

JMO

Regards,
BGBill
| 708|707|2005-02-03 05:07:52|metalmill52|Re: Machining - Yes! New Photos!|
Hi BGBill!

You bet we're machining! I just finished my latest project, a
MiniTinker tool and cutter grinder. Got the plans from Guy Lautard
at www.lautard.com. You can see 3 pictures of it on the Bill C photo
album under the Mini Tinker folder.

I am learning a good bit about tool grinding and would like to write
an article about making and using the MiniTinker - when I have
enough experience!

I used the Lathemaster 8x14 extensively in making "squarish things"
like the tool guide holder. As always, I couldn't be more pleased
with the 8x14, especially with the DC motor's variable speed.

I'd love to see what everyone else is working on!

Best Regards to all,

Bill C.
Pensacola, FL

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" lathe/mill

| 709|709|2005-02-03 14:01:55|Sekiar|Is Bob still alive?|
I, like some of you have called several times, before and after his
vacation and always got the recording......also tried email with no
return.....I had just received one of his 9x20 lathes and had talked
to him several times about it, which I'm happy with......but still
haven't had any answer back on the last several attempts about
purchasing one of the 8-inch lathes. Perplexed in Cold/wet NW
Arkansas......
| 710|710|2005-02-03 14:02:02|sherpols2016|Still Waiting|
Been waiting for two months. It always seems to be two weeks as when
the shipment will arrive. Harbor Freight has a 8x that looks exactly
like the Lathemaster it is part number 44859-1vga. It comes in red
and is on sale for $439. Looking at it, I can see no discernable
difference. Does anyone know about or seen this lathe? I will try to
attach a photo form their web.
| 711|710|2005-02-03 15:59:45|Green, James|Re: Still Waiting|

There must be some difference between the two models?????   HF's model is $439 and Bob is getting $695 for his. Does HF include the extra goodies of follow rest and etc???? Then again all these extra goodies from Bob doesn't make up the price difference..... IMO

James

From: sherpols2016 [mailto:guitarlt4me@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 10:32 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Still Waiting

Been waiting for two months. It always seems to be two weeks as when the shipment will arrive. Harbor Freight has a 8x that looks exactly like the Lathemaster it is part number 44859-1vga. It comes in red and is on sale for $439. Looking at it, I can see no discernable difference. Does anyone know about or seen this lathe? I will try to attach a photo form their web.
| 712|710|2005-02-03 16:20:55|mineralman55|Re: Still Waiting|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "sherpols2016" when
exactly
to
The HF model (if it is the same lathe, I'm not convinced) doesn't
include a 4-jaw, chip guard, splash guard, easy rest or steady rest.
It probably does include poorer manufacturing standards, as is
typical of many of HF's smaller machines.

However, for a review of the 8x12, look at
http://www.cnczone.com
for a review.

Larry
New Orleans
| 713|707|2005-02-03 16:25:58|Green, James|Re: Machining???|

The blue and gold colored chips are flying in my work shop........ Currently creating a ball and radius turning tool based off the plans from www.jerry-howell.com     I also just finished up on a spindle locking device that is shaped like a upside down T. This device lays over the ways and locks into place with two set screws and the finger of the T slides around one of the jaws on the chuck. In the upgrade department I've got a DC motor install project in the works. Last night I turned down the motor shaft to .629 for the motor pulley cone and keyed the shaft for 5mm key stock.

James

From: Bill Wilkins [mailto:bgwilkin@...]
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2005 6:05 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Machining???

Does anybody do any machining? Or are we playing Where's Waldo? Alot of the posts are getting boring unless your buying a lathe/mill or trying to get ahold of Bob. JMO Regards, BGBill
| 714|707|2005-02-03 16:26:12|mineralman55|Re: Machining???|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Wilkins" lathe/mill
My trash bins (and floor unfortunately) are full of chips (stainless
is great when it catches fire). Everything from fun stuff (aluminum
bats), to stuff for neighbors (stainless steel ship inspector's
hammer heads) to modifying my 1/2 inch indexable tool holders for the
QCTP.

Alright, I'll post some pics as soon as I can.

Larry
New Orleans
| 715|710|2005-02-03 16:49:10|john labutski|Re: Still Waiting|

Besides better fit and finish the lathemaster 8x14 has a larger lead screw than the HF. The HF has a smaller ( 9/16) lead screw on the one that I saw. Smaller leadscrews give poorer finishes. In fact the 8x14 has a bigger diameter lead screw than the 9x20 HF. Also the gibs on the 8x14 are better. Don't want to sound like a salesman for Lathemaster, but they clearly have better support for their products and the delivered product, even though you have to wait, is pretty well plug and play.

On delivery, the 9/11 situation has really screwed up import deliveries and inspection at the ports. The christmas deliveries from China have backed things up quite a bit as well.

Finally, if you will notice, postings for other brands continually have postings that say "how do I fix this?, can't get replacement parts!, severe chatter!, add a 4 bolt plate, etc. This should tell you something. All of us who have the product have played the waiting game for delivery. I have yet to hear of any one who is not happy with their 8x14 except for the motors. Lets face it America builds the best motors. But if your motor goes, you can add a VFD or treadmill motor setup. Which then makes the situation more of an enhancement then a repair.

John Ocala Florida

| 716|716|2005-02-03 20:54:41|John Labutski|power draw bar/ auto tool changer.|
I just got my plans for a power draw bar for my 7045fg and my HF mini-
mill cnc setup. Sure wish I had gotten the x3, but I didn't know
about the x3 until a fellow ham (Dan Kautz) got one and published it
on his web site.

The link is below:

http://home.insightbb.com/~joevicar3/Home_Shop_Accessories.htm

Just go to the main menu after you get to the above link.

For years the only thing that I have hated about milling machine
operations is collet changes. I had looked at power drawbars when I
had my BP and they were just to pricey. Also on the bench mills such
as the x3, 7045fg and mini-mill there was never any thing available
for this task. Also, since I am getting old and creaky standing up to
swap collets is a real pill (I do my milling sitting down). With his
design you can easily place the controls at nearly table level. The
price for the plans is 10 bucks. I consider that price dirt cheap.
You can waste 3 times that in wasted material by trying different
designs that don't work. I figure you can crank this out in about a
day if you don't include going to HF for the air tool it is
based on. Also Joe was pretty conservative on his price list and
sources for material.

He provides both .dxf drawings as well as an html setup so if you
have a computer you are all set and don't have to have a cad program
to view the drawings.

Also he has a nifty tool changer design for the taig sized machines.
The movie is fun to watch.

John Ocala Florida
| 717|709|2005-02-04 03:28:18|nowdkyle|Re: Is Bob still alive?|
I had an email from him this week-end (not gloating) which he
answered shortly after I sent my question to him. Are you sure
your "spam" filter isn't kicking his emails out. I found on mine
that was happening to my own emails from my work address to my home
account.

Regards,
Dick K.

| 718|709|2005-02-04 20:59:00|Bell, Gregory K|Re: Is Bob still alive?|

I am also waiting for info from Bob. I did talk to him two weeks ago, but haven't heard anything since. Could be that my spam filter may have dumped his e-mails into the "junk" folder.

What e-mail address does Bob use?

Greg Bell

Westervile, Ohio

| 719|719|2005-02-04 23:50:11|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Neg posts|
Negative posts will not be tolerated. If you want a HF lathe than go
buy one. There are plenty of HF groups out there to make your new HF
machine run better. I am sorry about the delays of shipments also but
as was said blame 9-11. So sit back and read and learn...Bob
| 720|719|2005-02-05 01:33:29|John Labutski|Re: Neg posts|
I may have missed it, but I have yet to see a negative posting on
this group. It may be that I chuckle a bit when I see postings that
indicate the person is just waiting with baited breath to get his or
her machine. Thats human nature. Those of us who have Lathemaster
machines know they were well worth the wait! I do agree with you on
your comments about 9/11. That and heightened security because of the
elections in Iraq screws up the ability of suppliers to provide for
instant gratification of customers. But the biggest problem that I
see is that people ignore the impact of weather on shipments during
this time of year especially from the west coast. I ordered my stuff
when the sun was shining and there was no sign of 8 foot deep snow at
the mountain passes.

John Ocala Florida.

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "BOB & CINDY WRIGHT"
HF
but

| 721|721|2005-02-05 04:36:31|Doug Walker|Tool Availability|
Hi All,
I talked to Bob about tool availability and part of the problem is
getting the machines through US Customs. The machinery is unloaded,
and taken to a Customs House Broker. Then they have to truck them to
US Customs to be inspected and then trucked back to be sent along to
Lathemaster.
For years US Customs did not bother with this, but they have found
that they can collect fees for actually doing their job (inspecting
imports) and it is a good source of revenue for them.
For a small importer like Bob I am sure it is more of a hassle than
for a large importer like Harbor Frieght or Grizzley. On the other
hand HF has been known to leave their lathes sitting on a dock
somewhere and shipped a ball of rust to an unhappy owner(who had to
pick up the return frieght).
I am very happy with my new 9X20 and the couple of small problems
that I had were taken care of quickly. The design is sound and the
quality quite good.
If you want to get a hold of Lathemaster I would try in the evenings
on the phone. I have found this to be the best way to contact him.
Good Luck,
Doug
| 722|722|2005-02-05 05:27:56|sherpols2016|Negative Post?|
I don't consider my inquiry about the HF 8x negative. It is not like
people searching will never find and wonder about it. Bringing such
things up in an open forum gives people a chance to get constructive
feedback. It was nice to know that the leadscrew was smaller and the
fit and finish wasn't as good on the HF (info- posted by a member
who has seen both) I consider this good info to know, and will no
doubt draw prospective serious buyers toward Lathemaster. Bob
Burtrand would do well to capatalize on the fact that the HF doesn't
come with the goodies that his do and research for himself if the
two are indeed compatible. If so, demand for his accessories on the
HF sites could only help him. So, in conclusion, bringing up that
there is a similar product in existace does not neccessarily equate
to negativity. People shopping for a lathe will no doubt research
and compare. Lacking any good source for comparison, people may tend
to buy an inferior product blindly. If this is indeed an "open"
forum, public rebukes like the one issued by the Wrights should "not
be tolerated". And I don't think Harbor Freight will be going out of
business anytime soon. Better to confront competition than to
pretend it doesn't exist.
| 723|723|2005-02-05 05:30:14|Peter Jones|simple question|
Bob, was talking about some new lathe models recently...
Is the 9x20 one of them? (remodelled)?? Or am I mistaken?

Also Bob, could you tell us any new or interesting products, that you will be offering?

PJ
| 724|707|2005-02-05 05:47:52|metalmill52|Re: Radius Turning was Machining???|
James,

The radius turning tool looks cool! Please fill us in when you get
it finished and post some photos as well!

Did the plans talk about the type of bit to use? I mean LH, RH,
center point? The reason I'm asking is I just finished a ball
turner project used the plans from the MetalWebNews site - haven't
tried turning a ball handle yet as I've been too busy teaching
myself to grind endmills in the MiniTinker!!

Best Regards,

Bill C.
Pensacola,FL

ps - I left the Full Size option on the 3 MiniTinker photos in case
anyone wanted to see a close up. I know that eats MB space, so I'll
delete full size in a few days - so check 'em out now if you want
to!!

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James"

| 725|709|2005-02-05 06:15:46|nowdkyle|Re: Is Bob still alive?|
admin@...

Dick

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bell, Gregory K" ago, but haven't heard anything since. Could be that my spam filter
may have dumped his e-mails into the "junk" folder.

| 726|709|2005-02-05 16:07:52|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Is Bob still alive?|
The first email i sent Bob went into his junk email folder. So mine
went in the trash. I still have it it says "junk email" at the top.
Luckly he was looking thru there and found it...Bob

| 727|723|2005-02-05 17:33:22|mineralman55|Re: simple question|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Jones" you will be offering?
No, his new lathe is a larger "version" of the 8x14, a 10x30 with
what appears to be a larger spindle taper (MT4?) It looks great, as
I've seen his shop lathe several times.

He also has a bolt-on planetary geared retrofit for the spindle
pulleys about ready to go. It will reduce the spindle speed <60 rpm
for threading. It looks so cool I just might get one for the fun of
it. Then I'll have to get some plexiglass to make a new side cover
for it.

BTW, I bought one of Lathemaster's 1/2" carbide insert lathe tool
sets, knowing I'd have to mill about 0.100 inch off the bottom of
each tool holder to get them centered in the QCTP on the 8x14.
Watching these insert holders slice aluminum is amazing.

Unfortunately, I've dulled/burnt up 3 cobalt HSS endmills cutting
them (~400 rpm on the X3) Any suggestions on how to get these
exceptionally tough insert holders milled without spending a
fortune? I've ordered a carbide endmill to try it. RPM suggestions
for it?

Larry
New Orleans
| 728|723|2005-02-05 17:51:44|Brian Tuttle|Re: simple question|
I would be interested in more information on the 10x30 if anybody knows
where to find it, or can provide it.

As for the insert holder, do you know anybody with a surface grinder?

Brian

| 729|723|2005-02-05 17:52:26|john labutski|Re: simple question|

I have found that it is easier to fly cut the tool holders themselves. I removed about .140 from the bottoms and it ends up working very well. I just used a carbide lathe bit in the fly cutter and a took a cut of about .025 or so for the first three cuts. I believe the tool holders are case hardened about .050 deep. After that the rest of the cutting is a piece of cake. Your other choice is to disassemble the tool holders and take them to a local machine shop and have them ground down on an auto feed surface grinder with a coarse wheel. I figure about 50.00 dollars should take care of all of them.

John

| 730|723|2005-02-05 18:11:28|Barry|Re: simple question|

Can you grind them?

Barry

Unfortunately, I've dulled/burnt up 3 cobalt HSS endmills cutting them (~400 rpm on the X3) Any suggestions on how to get these
exceptionally tough insert holders milled without spending a
fortune? I've ordered a carbide endmill to try it. RPM suggestions
for it?

Larry
New Orleans

| 731|731|2005-02-05 18:31:34|rustkolector|Re: Low cost DRO kit for X3|
Has anyone had satisfactory performance from any of the $300-400 low
end 3 axis DRO kits that are available?
| 732|723|2005-02-05 19:10:01|mineralman55|Re: simple question|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" themselves. I removed about .140 from the bottoms and it ends up
working very well. I just used a carbide lathe bit in the fly cutter
and a took a cut of about .025 or so for the first three cuts. I
believe the tool holders are case hardened about .050 deep. After
that the rest of the cutting is a piece of cake. Your other choice
is to disassemble the tool holders and take them to a local machine
shop and have them ground down on an auto feed surface grinder with
a coarse wheel. I figure about 50.00 dollars should take care of
all of them.
Yeah, I kind of thought they might be case hardened, they got a lot
easier to mill after about 0.050" cutting in. I'll wait on the
carbide endmill to finish the last three. I'm not willing to try a
fly cutter with one of my carbide bits in it. Don't want that kind
of interrupted cut with carbide.

These things are made in India, and are very nice quality (in
addition to being VERY hard.) Next time I'll try some TiN coated
inserts. Bob only had the uncoated ones at the time.

Larry
| 733|731|2005-02-05 19:13:46|john labutski|Re: Low cost DRO kit for X3|

If you get the heavy scales ( not the slim ones like are used in the calipers) they work ok. Personally if I had to do it again, I would go the glass scale route. The glass scale ones allow bolt centers and other features that the straight 3 axis displays do not. There is one kit out there like shumatech.com that a lot of guys are happy with. If you don't want to build a kit, or need bolt centers, Lathemaster has a 3 axis display that works well with these scales on their yahoo store. Its important that you solder the io cords on to the pcb in the scale and seal it up well. Otherwise you get irratic results. There are also some economical glass scales that are imports for about 500.00 per set. Check some of the other yahoo groups. The sources are posted. Also use a quality surge protected outlet strip to prevent damage to the display and scales.

John

| 734|723|2005-02-05 19:30:07|john labutski|Re: simple question|

I used a single style C cheapo enco braised bit to do 6 holders. I just stacked 3 tool holders in the milling vice and used my smallest diameter fly cutter. I only had to grind the tool bit just before I made the final pass. Just feed across the work slowly. I used around 400 rpm. Just make sure the tool bit doesn't stick out of the fly cutter very far. There is plenty of spring in the tool bit to prevent damage to your mill. I did mine on the 7045fg but I have done similar stuff on my x2. Your x3 has plenty of beef to do this. You might try .020 initially for fly cut depth. the hardening tapers off as you go deeper on your third and following passes. Just use a very slow feed and moderate spindle rpm.

John

| 735|709|2005-02-05 20:42:07|Bell, Gregory K|Re: Is Bob still alive?|

Thanks for the address, Dick. I'll keep my eyes peeled for it now... even in my junk mail folder!

Greg Bell

Westerville, Ohio

| 736|731|2005-02-06 00:16:51|uptoolateman|Re: Low cost DRO kit for X3|
I bought a couple of the dro boxes from Bob last year and installed
dro on my 8x14 and x3. They work pretty well the only complaints I
have is when you press the zero buton you have to wait a few seconds
before moving the axis other wise it doesn't capture your full
movement. The other thing is the pins inside the connectors easily
push out when being connected to the box resulting in erratic
readings. Be sure to seal the opening where the connector goes into
the scale and around the perimeter of the scale head with silicone.

Mike...
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "rustkolector" low

| 737|723|2005-02-06 03:52:45|nowdkyle|Re: simple question|
Try something in the range of 100 surface feet per minute. Carbide
quite often is dulled by chipping from too slow of speed rather than
burning from too high speed.

You have confirmed, in my mind, the quality of the tool holders. I
have a cheap set that I bought and they cut easily with a high speed
steel end mill. I like to use the cut down .5" because the extra
width puts the insert a little further ahead of the holder.

Regards,
Dick

--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55"
| 738|723|2005-02-06 19:32:48|mineralman55|Re: simple question|
--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Tuttle" You'll have to call/email Bob at Lathemaster for detailes. He said he
ordered a shipment of them, but didn't say when they'd arrive.

Larry
| 739|739|2005-02-06 23:47:30|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|RE HF lathe|
I hope no one took to much offense on me spouting off the other day.
But the problem child has left the group. I guess he got tired of
reading all the good emails i sent him. I can understand the
frustration of waiting for a 8x14 i couldn't wait myself and bought a
SB 10K. Money was burning in my pocket. I may get an 8x14 down the
road but i don't want to jump in front of you guy's after all i can
play. So sorry guys and keep on turning...Bob
| 740|740|2005-02-07 00:59:31|aus15512|10 x 22 lathe|
I'm looking at getting a new lathe. The current leader of the pack
is a D250 x 550 (10" x 22"). It seems to be a bit of a grown up 8" x
14" hence my posting to this group. There is quite a good
description at http://www.tokentoolroom.com/lathe.html
They are available here in Aus for about AU$1650 which seems to me to
be pretty good.
Does anyone have any good or bad comments??
cheers
Bill Pudney
Adelaide, Australia
| 741|739|2005-02-07 01:22:17|Brian Tuttle|Re: RE HF lathe|
pardon my ignorance, but what is a sb 10k?? would that be a south bend
10x24??

| 742|739|2005-02-07 01:40:11|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: RE HF lathe|
Yes thats right, Bob

| 743|739|2005-02-07 07:42:14|Brian Tuttle|Re: RE HF lathe|
isn't that a 10,000 dollar lathe new?? or did you get a deal on an older
used one?

Brian

| 744|707|2005-02-07 14:36:01|Green, James|Re: Radius Turning was Machining???|

The design is of the radius ball turner is flexable enough to except LH, RH and center point cutters. I changed the plans to fit our 8 x 14 lathes instead of the plan listed 10" lathe. Currently I am cutting the dovetails and crossing my fingers that I have it right!!!!!!

From: metalmill52 [mailto:wacleary@...]
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 10:47 PM
To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Radius Turning was Machining???

James, The radius turning tool looks cool!   Please fill us in when you get it finished and post some photos as well! Did the plans talk about the type of bit to use? I mean LH, RH, center point? The reason I'm asking is I just finished a ball turner project used the plans from the MetalWebNews site - haven't tried turning a ball handle yet as I've been too busy teaching myself to grind endmills in the MiniTinker!! Best Regards, Bill C. Pensacola,FL ps - I left the Full Size option on the 3 MiniTinker photos in case anyone wanted to see a close up. I know that eats MB space, so I'll delete full size in a few days - so check 'em out now if you want to!! --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" Brian, Bought it on ebay. $610.00 had to drive 880 miles there and back. 1974 vintage. Took the seats out of my Geo Metro and loaded it up. Crarried it myself to the car, all 310# of it . Had to leave the stand. That was the money i had set aside for an 8x14. Spent another 800 bucks on chucks, a new motor, steadyrest and a custom t-slot cross slide. Plus it was right next door to OCC. I got to stop in but all the guys were at bike week. It will work for now. I also bought a SB 16" x 7' but i haven't got it home yet. Some pics are under my aametalmaster profile click it...Bob| 746|739|2005-02-07 17:19:55|Brian Tuttle|Re: RE HF lathe|thx Bob Brian | 747|747|2005-02-08 16:46:28|Mark Petersen|Alternative machines or Lathemaster?|I have looking around for quite awhile at the different small bench lathes out there (Iquess I am something of a procrastinator) and one model off the list is the 9x20. Lets just say I am not impressed. Currently the leaders are the two offered by Lathe Master or a 10x22 Supra 550 sold by Knuth located in Wheeling IL. Another option is the PM10x27 sold by an oufit in Pennsylvania outside of Pittsburg (a similiar lathe is sold by Busy Bee).The first looks to an enlarged 8x14 while the second looks to be a slightly longer gearhead lathe. Knuth does have a web site http://www.knuth.de/frameset_usa.htm?/prod_usa/drehen/konv_drehen.htm While the other machine I have only seen on ebay. What I would appreciate from the group here is an honest appraisal of the Lathemaster machines (I know they are not a Hardinge or Monarch. I run a Hardinge at work almost daily) and their modification potential. Who knows if I go with one of the other lathes we may need a new group dedicated to that size as there is none now| 748|747|2005-02-09 00:00:53|Steve Rogers|Re: Alternative machines or Lathemaster?|You might be interested to know that the Knuth 10x22 looks very much like the Warco 1016/1022 http://www.warco.co.uk/lathes/1022.htm and the Chester DB10G http://www.chesteruk.net/DB-10G%20Precision%20Belt%20Drive%20Lathe.htm which are available here in the UK. The Chester DB8 (which I bought in preference to a 9x20) is very similar to the Lathemaster 8x14. To me all these machines look like they come from the same "family". http://www.enuii.org/chinese_lathe/ has some comments on the DB10G though I think it's several years old. If you procrastinate for a little longer you may be able to get a variable speed version since both Warco and Chester have added these to their range (though they're not on their websites). Whether the variable speed will be a is a good thing or not is, of course, another question!! Hope that this is helpful and not too OT. Steve -----Original Message----- From: Mark Petersen [mailto:mpetersen6@...] Sent: 08 February 2005 14:35 To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Alternative machines or Lathemaster? I have looking around for quite awhile at the different small bench lathes out there (Iquess I am something of a procrastinator) and one model off the list is the 9x20. Lets just say I am not impressed. Currently the leaders are the two offered by Lathe Master or a 10x22 Supra 550 sold by Knuth located in Wheeling IL. Another option is the PM10x27 sold by an oufit in Pennsylvania outside of Pittsburg (a similiar lathe is sold by Busy Bee).The first looks to an enlarged 8x14 while the second looks to be a slightly longer gearhead lathe. Knuth does have a web site http://www.knuth.de/frameset_usa.htm?/prod_usa/drehen/konv_drehen.htm While the other machine I have only seen on ebay. What I would appreciate from the group here is an honest appraisal of the Lathemaster machines (I know they are not a Hardinge or Monarch. I run a Hardinge at work almost daily) and their modification potential. Who knows if I go with one of the other lathes we may need a new group dedicated to that size as there is none now Yahoo! Groups Links| 749|747|2005-02-09 15:39:28|Mark Petersen|Re: Alternative machines or Lathemaster?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Rogers" Chester http://www.chesteruk.net/DB-10G%20Precision%20Belt%20Drive%20Lathe.htm me all though I variable range will be I'd seen the web page from enuii and had thought about contacting the individual but I still have not figured out how to sign up for a netscape account. What attracts me to the 10inch/250mm lathes over the 9x18s is the saddle assembly appears to be much more robust. But what these lathes beg to have is a 1+ inch spindle bore IMO. That is one thing the PM1027 (BVB25) has. I have the feeling that all of these lathes are either produced by Sieg or a rip-offs of their types. But then all of the small chinese lathes seem to be rip-offs of the Emco Maier models anyways As to variable speed. As long as the motor has sufficent HP to start with even at the low speed ranges it adds a lot of value. Other wise why would so many 9x18 owners be hanging treadmill motors on them Actually one reason I was thinking about the Knuth is the open area of the bed below the headstock offers the room to modify the leadscrew with one way dog cluthes to allow Hardinge style threading and feed revrerse too. What we really need is some one to prod the manufactures to offer a small lathe with a larger bore and a 5C collet built right into the spindle | 750|750|2005-02-09 15:41:14|modpodd|OT - Red goop|Just received a 450 lb. beaten up flake board crate with an almost sparkling X3 inside. Thankfully the X3 looks quite OK, no dents, scratches or obvious missing parts. The first think I need to do is remove all that red goop that is covering everything. What's the best way to remove it ? Is there a magic solvent ? A special trick ? Thanks in advance, Nick| 751|750|2005-02-09 15:44:42|prentice@snailmail.ch|Re: OT - Red goop|WD40 works quite well if available where you are. Quoting modpodd <nick@... | 752|750|2005-02-09 15:45:15|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: OT - Red goop|Nick, Put on the rubber gloves and use regular paint thinner (mineral spirits) thats what we used at work cleaning up our machines. Don't smoke or use near open flames...Bob | 753|750|2005-02-09 16:29:02|Green, James|Re: OT - Red goop| Don't forget to pick up a package of pipe cleaner for those hard to reach places........ James From: BOB & CINDY WRIGHT [mailto:aametalmaster@...] Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 8:45 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Re: OT - Red goop Nick, Put on the rubber gloves and use regular paint thinner (mineral spirits) thats what we used at work cleaning up our machines. Don't smoke or use near open flames...Bob --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "modpodd" that is covering everything. it ? | 754|754|2005-02-09 16:39:19|Green, James|Swill head on an X3| Some data that posted in the past by user x86ricer but never seen any replies. Looks like you can modify the head to swivel 45 degrees in either direction????   Has anybody seen one installed yet???? http://www.engineerstoolroom.co.uk/bmd-25.htm James| 755|755|2005-02-09 22:33:50|tyranorbis|can the ZAY7045L do precision boring|can the ZAY7045L do precision boring| 756|754|2005-02-09 23:49:02|cba_melbourne|Re: Swill head on an X3|James, first time I looked at the UK link, I thought great I can make such a swiveling device. But after looking at the disassembled head and doing the tramming of column and head (without a swivel), I began to think otherwise. My head needed some shimming for the quill/spindle to be parallel with the column. I do not feel such a simple swivel fixture as shown in the UK site would be sufficiently repeateable. And owning another (smaller) swivel mill head, I know that every time you touch the swivel, you spend as much or more time to tram it back again as you do when changing height on a round column mill. I came to the conclusion that for me, time or money is better invested in a tilting vise or a sine plate. But then, I also still have the small mill with tilting head to fall back if really needed. But would appreciate to hear how others that bought this UK swivel attachment rate it in regard to useability. Chris| 757|755|2005-02-10 02:28:27|john labutski|Re: can the ZAY7045L do precision boring| I have the 7045fg and added a gearhead motor for the z axis to replace the crank for lifting the head. It is a 90 volt bodine 38rpm gearmotor and it moves the head up and down rather quickly. I then added a switch setup so I could switch to a 12 volt supply and a small dc variable speed controller and once I had the gibs tweaked it allow me to bore with variable speed feeds and I have gotten some really get some nice bore finishes. I used a cogbelt pulley setup and the pictures are under gearhead in the pictures section. I don't know if the 7045L has a dc motor or an ac motor for lifting the head. I would assume it would be relatively easy to adjust the speed of the motor and if not, replace it with an inline DC gear motor setup using variable speed and using 2 different voltage drive levels and variable speed controller for the slow feed rate. If you plan to bore depths shorter than 5 inches, an acme lead screw and a variable speed dc drive could work as well for pushing the spindle up and down. This would require a much smaller drive motor because you would only be moving the spindle up and down and not the entire gear head. I had considered this earlier for my mod. I considered the motor to drive the worm gear on the spindle rack. However, that approach adds a bunch of Murphies. Also, cranking the z axis is not my idea of fun (either on a BP or on the 7045fg) so I opted for moving the whole head. In the case of the 7045L you already have powerhead up and down so you only have to move the quill. Also an acme lead screw and half nut assembly will cost only between 30 an 40 dollars with a hombrew half nut out of brass. If you want to get fancy you can add a ballnut and ball screw for about 70 dollars with a simple clamp fpr the ball nut. This along with a double pole double throw switch and you can bore on the upstroke as well. Whats neat about this reverse approach is that on certain types of boring you get a reverse helix cut on the upstroke in the bore. If the precision you are talking about is depth, You will find that NC microswitches allow you to have stop depth tolerances aproaching .002 or less and have also stops for up and down motion. These are tolerances I could never hold on my BP when trying to achieve a spot face finish quality at the bottom of a bore. Also since the 7045 gear head has flat sides adding these mod's is quite easy. One thing that I have considered since I did my mod is the abillity to do peck drilling using a couple of normally open switches. I have always had a problem doing very small diameter holes for 0-80 screws and the peck drilling approach still kind of fascinates me and someday I may do this mod my self. On the 4 boring jobs that I have done, I can say without reservation the bores were at least as good as the best I had done in the past on my BP. John | 758|755|2005-02-10 06:03:38|tyranorbis|Re: can the ZAY7045L do precision boring|thanks for your your reply that wsa just about what i was looking for --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" replace the crank for lifting the head. It is a 90 volt bodine 38rpm gearmotor and it moves the head up and down rather quickly. I then added a switch setup so I could switch to a 12 volt supply and a small dc variable speed controller and once I had the gibs tweaked it allow me to bore with variable speed feeds and I have gotten some really get some nice bore finishes. I used a cogbelt pulley setup and the pictures are under gearhead in the pictures section. I don't know if the 7045L has a dc motor or an ac motor for lifting the head. I would assume it would be relatively easy to adjust the speed of the motor and if not, replace it with an inline DC gear motor setup using variable speed and using 2 different voltage drive levels and variable speed controller for the slow feed rate. screw and a variable speed dc drive could work as well for pushing the spindle up and down. This would require a much smaller drive motor because you would only be moving the spindle up and down and not the entire gear head. I had considered this earlier for my mod. I considered the motor to drive the worm gear on the spindle rack. However, that approach adds a bunch of Murphies. Also, cranking the z axis is not my idea of fun (either on a BP or on the 7045fg) so I opted for moving the whole head. you only have to move the quill. Also an acme lead screw and half nut assembly will cost only between 30 an 40 dollars with a hombrew half nut out of brass. If you want to get fancy you can add a ballnut and ball screw for about 70 dollars with a simple clamp fpr the ball nut. This along with a double pole double throw switch and you can bore on the upstroke as well. Whats neat about this reverse approach is that on certain types of boring you get a reverse helix cut on the upstroke in the bore. If the precision you are talking about is depth, You will find that NC microswitches allow you to have stop depth tolerances aproaching .002 or less and have also stops for up and down motion. These are tolerances I could never hold on my BP when trying to achieve a spot face finish quality at the bottom of a bore. Also since the 7045 gear head has flat sides adding these mod's is quite easy. One thing that I have considered since I did my mod is the abillity to do peck drilling using a couple of normally open switches. I have always had a problem doing very small diameter holes for 0-80 screws and the peck drilling approach still kind of fascinates me and someday I may do this mod my self. On the 4 boring jobs that I have done, I can say without reservation the bores were at least as good as the best I had done in the past on my BP. ----------- of Service.| 759|571|2005-02-11 04:18:41|nowdkyle|Home brewed X3 power feed?|Andy, Have you posted the power feed pics and I missed them? Bob says it will be difficult to adapt the factory power feed to my original style X3. Regards, Dick | 760|723|2005-02-11 15:26:02|mineralman55|Milling Insert Holders: Last Thoughts|I finally had everything together last night to finish milling the insert tool holders. I put a nice 3/8" AR-style carbide bit in the flycutter, and it easily took off the case hardening from the insert holder, producing a fine finish. So next I tried to flycut two tool holders side by side in the vice. After a few flycutter swipes the carbide chipped--- just what I was afraid would happen. So I pulled out my new solid carbide endmill. Using about 700-800 rpm it sliced thru the casehardening with ease. I still have one more insert holder to go, and I'll probably put the X3 into the high range and slowly adjust the rpm up to ~1500 and see what happens. My only complaint in this whole project concerns the allen wrench that came with the toolholders. It rounded after about three usages--- what a POS! BTW, the uncoated carbide inserts from Lathemaster are made in Russia. What an eclectic importer! :-) Larry New Orleans | 761|723|2005-02-11 17:23:56|john labutski|Re: Milling Insert Holders: Last Thoughts| Hello Larry What diameter fly cutter were you using?   Was your quill and gear head locked down when you were fly cutting?   My experience with cutting case hardened material using a flycutter is as follows. There is a tendency for the z axis to slip a bit down a bit due to vibration which can increase the depth of cut by 20 to 40 thou. This sudden jolt can double or triple the impact surface area of the cutter. Locking the quill and the gear head eliminates this possibility. 1) swing the shortest radius you can. In other words only have the bit sticking out slightly beyond the edge of the brazed carbide. This reduces the slight amount the bit will twist as it fly cuts. 2) Grind the tip of the bit for zero or slight negative rake. This keeps the bit from digging into the work piece as it cuts and reduces the springing of the bit up when it exits the work piece. I have been using the same two bits for flycutting for 6 months. I have used these to cut off .140 on my tool holders as well as a bunch of cast iron (probably about 10 square feet. Occasionally I have to take two attempts at getting them sharpened correctly but they are still useable. They were the cheap under $2.00 variety brazed on inserts. 3) Finally in regard to speed, blue chips are okay, but sparks are not. With respect to the allen wrench, its better to get a new wrench than to try and get a trashed soft screw out. With respect to Russian products, they are starting to come on line with respect to quality. I recently received some angular contact bearings that were made in Russia. I was quite impressed with the runout and overall quality. One question, where did you get your carbide end mill and what brand and diameter is it? John Ocala Florida | 762|723|2005-02-11 21:11:46|mineralman55|Re: Milling Insert Holders: Last Thoughts|Questions, questions :-) It was Lathemaster's R8 flycutter. I had the carbide tip poking out maybe <1/2", so the estimate is about 2-2.5" effective diameter. I had the rpm dialed down real low, ~250 rpm. As I said, the first flycut went great. I inspected the carbide tip after and saw that a small flake came off the front end. Stuff happens... otherwise I suspect it would have worked just fine a second time. Whenever possible, I always lock down the head and quill, and any slide not needed on a cut. Just good practice. Regarding grinding, I don't have the capability to grind carbide, so I'll just have to use my stuff "as is". It's good to know blue chips are okay, but when I see sparks (or worse, short flames) I back off either feed rate or depth of cut. Fire in the shop scares me. The remark about Russian imports wasn't a left-handed compliment about Russians, it was a tribute to Bob that he purchases good stuff regardless of it's origination point. Quality products are where you find them, and Bob sure looks hard to find the good stuff. As far as the poor quality allen wrench goes, I'll just use one of my own and toss the one that came with the set of holders. I can accept that considering how good the rest of the equipment is. The carbide endmills I purchased from Travers.com. It is a M.A. Ford micrograin 3/8" 4-flute single end on sale for $18.15 ea. It was well worth it. Also, their 4-flute M42 8% cobalt single end mills are also on sale (1/2" $6.77 each). I use these for everyday work (they're made in Korea) and work great on everything from aluminum to stainless (except case hardened tool steel.) BTW, using my X3, if I want to face mill small parts of 6061 or 2024 aluminum dry, what would be the BEST endmill to produce a mirror finish? Two-flute, 3-flute, carbide, HSS, 45 degree helix, 30 degree helix, etc? I don't mind spending extra to produce something that needs no further work. Larry --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" head locked down when you were fly cutting? My experience with cutting case hardened material using a flycutter is as follows. There is a tendency for the z axis to slip a bit down a bit due to vibration which can increase the depth of cut by 20 to 40 thou. This sudden jolt can double or triple the impact surface area of the cutter. Locking the quill and the gear head eliminates this possibility. bit sticking out slightly beyond the edge of the brazed carbide. This reduces the slight amount the bit will twist as it fly cuts. keeps the bit from digging into the work piece as it cuts and reduces the springing of the bit up when it exits the work piece. I have been using the same two bits for flycutting for 6 months. I have used these to cut off .140 on my tool holders as well as a bunch of cast iron (probably about 10 square feet. Occasionally I have to take two attempts at getting them sharpened correctly but they are still useable. They were the cheap under $2.00 variety brazed on inserts. not. than to try and get a trashed soft screw out. with respect to quality. I recently received some angular contact bearings that were made in Russia. I was quite impressed with the runout and overall quality. brand and diameter is it? the the insert tool the rpm range usages--- wrote: Carbide holders. I extra bottom of 8x14. cutting ---------- Service.| 763|723|2005-02-11 22:34:15|john labutski|Re: Milling Insert Holders: Last Thoughts| Hello Larry, I also have Lathemasters flycutter and it is 2 1/2 inches in diameter. I love it for aluminum, but its a bit large in diameter to use on case hardened material with the x3. The problem on casehardened cutting is that you need to be able to grind (in essence tweak) what cutter rake will work well for your x3. Also to get a mirror finish on aluminum, you need a radius on the hss or cobalt cutter edge and points and perfect tram of the mill. Carbide just doesn't do as nice on aluminum. I also use tapping fluid, or kerosene, or glycerin lightly painted across the surface of the part. The fluid helps keep the finish from oxidizing slightly be cause of heat but will not change the micro finish at all. Hand lapping a milling cutter for this radius is extremely difficult. If you can, use a fly cutter and a nice radius on a HSS bit point, zero or moderate positive rake. Also, you have to get a good grinder. Harbor Freight has a reasonably good green wheel grinder for $159.00 and the part number is 46727. Its a reasonable clone of the $1000.00 Baldor. You have to order via their web site. When it comes in make sure that the plates that hold the grinding wheels run true. Mine came in with one bad wheel mounting plate and it took me 2 months and a fight to get a replacement. The reason I kept the grinder and did not return it, was that the spindle had zero runout and there was extremely low vibration (you could just tell it was running) with the good side after trueing the good wheel. There are so many things you can do with grinding HSS, cobalt, and carbide lathe bits for fly cutters such as making your own radius and form cutters as well as salvage of your inserts and brazed lathe bits. Just give up smoking ( if you do), drinking if you do, start walking to work to save on gas, until you get that grinder. With regard to my blue chip comment, that only applies to cutting with carbide. John in Sunny Ocala Florida | 764|571|2005-02-13 00:03:16|andy|Re: Home brewed X3 power feed?|i havent yet, been busy using it but i'll try to tomorrow in between work.never posted photos before though,hope its not too hard.if your x axis feedscrew doesnt go into the support bracket at the far end it will not work though,i think that this is what bob means.it also needs to have a slotted end which the current models have.regards andy | 765|571|2005-02-13 01:48:00|daddyo217|Re: X3 power feed - NEW PHOTO|I've uploaded another photo for this discussion - it shows the X- axis lead screw END, the part that is slotted to accept the drive motor. You'll find it in the Photos section under Daddyo - Powerfeed (Seig) and it is labeled accordingly. Here's the photo's link: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/vwp?.dir=/Daddyo/Tab le+Powerfeed+(Seig)&.src=gr&.dnm=X-Axis+Lead+Screw+ (6182).jpg&.view=t&.done=http% 3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/lst%3f% 26.dir=/Daddyo/Table%2bPowerfeed%2b(Seig)%26.src=gr%26.view=t Enjoy! I hope I've helped someone out there in virtual machinery- land... Daddyo :) | 766|723|2005-02-13 05:37:05|cba_melbourne|Re: Milling Insert Holders: Last Thoughts|Larry, small parts mean small cutters. The key in Aluminium is then very high rpms, several times higher than what the X3 has to offer (eg a cutter <4mm would love something above 5000rpm). In my experience almost any new sharp hss cutter will provide a good finish in aluminium. If you have the choice, a steep helix is better. Solid carbide is a waste. Instead of cutting dry, try spraying on a little WD40. For flat surfaces, the best finish you will get with a small hss flycutter, the toolbit radiussed and lapped (with arkansas stone or finest diamond lap). Due to its larger cutting diameter you attain the desired surface speed within the speed ranges of the X3. Chris| 767|767|2005-02-13 15:45:42|andy|uploaded photos|just uploaded some photos of my homemade powerfeed and other stuff for the x3 mill,the photos are not great and dont really do it justice but should give an idea of how it works.they dont seem to have gone into the same folder but are seperate and any advice on how to put them in the same folder would be appreciated.there are 8 pics and i am particularly proud of my three cutter indexable face mill as it is the first time that i have used the rotary table for such a thing and it came out well with all cutters perfectly aligned and works very nicely.regards andy| 768|768|2005-02-15 00:52:07|Art Lundwall|Shortening scales|I just got the scales for the DRO350 I'm adding to my X3. I need to shorten one of them. Is there any trick to doing so? I've read that the best way to do this is to use a cutoff wheel in a dremel. Is that really the best way? Thanks in advance. Art| 769|768|2005-02-15 01:08:18|uptoolateman|Re: Shortening scales|Art, That's what I used to cut mine down. I tried a saw first but the scales are pretty hard, only took a few strokes to realize that. Mike... --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" to that that | 770|768|2005-02-15 04:39:11|Richard|Re: Shortening scales|Hi Art, New member here, and the first post so far. I have cut a few of the Chinese scales to length and recommend using the Dremel wheels that look like pressed brown abrasive cloth because they don't shatter in your face the way that the thin brittle Dremel wheels do. (Use of a face shield is highly recommended anyway) These wheels will last longer also. Start the cut from the backside away from the label side. The stainless steel will get very hot while grinding it, so keep cooling it by dipping the backside of the metal in cold water so that you don't melt the copper foil pattern and label. When you finish cutting through the metal, trim off the copper foil circuit pattern and the label side cleanly with an Xacto blade or single edge razor blade. You can seal the cut end with a small smear of silicone seal if you wish to keep oils and metal particles off of it. You can cut it anywhere since the linear capacitance circuitry is detecting the edges of the square wave serpentine etched copper pattern. You can't short circuit it at any point along the scale's length. Richard --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" | 771|768|2005-02-15 13:00:13|cba_melbourne|Re: Shortening scales|My chinese scales were labelled "hardened". I used a hacksaw with bimetall blade, very high pressure, slow decisive strokes (all to avoid work hardening), and the beam was in half in some 60 seconds (and it was one of the large beam type). Same observation with a small beam type scale from another dealer with another reading head. So, I think they may all no be very hard. Just cut against the glued circuit board under the cover tape, otherwise it will come off. Clean- up with an ordinary file is no problem. Chris| 772|768|2005-02-15 16:44:27|john labutski|Re: Shortening scales| Hello Art If you are going to shorten your scales here are a couple of tips. 1) when you cut them, keep the far end of the scale up so that chips cannot enter the scale. 2) vaccuum the end of the scale so any residual chips are removed. 3) Seal the end of the scale with rtv or some other sealant. Most problems with the scales occur when dirt or chips enter the end of the scale and scrape the interior of the scale. John | 773|773|2005-02-15 17:47:18|John Labutski|tool grinder on sale|Harbor freight has their tool grinder on sale for $129.99. For you guys that don't have one of these, this is a pretty good deal. It weights about 100 lbs and does an excellent job on carbide, cobalt, and HSS steel bits. Lathemasters cobalt bits are really hard and hold a great edge. This grinder makes it easy to grind them. If you have a mist cooler, you can grind them quite quickly with out having to dip them in water to cool them off. If you make a couple of bit holding fixtures that ride in the table slides it makes quick and accurate work of lathe tool bit grinding. This grinder also allows mounting of diamond wheels. Basically a lot of bang for the buck. I have one and love it. John Ocala Florida| 774|773|2005-02-16 06:08:27|two4tom|Re: tool grinder on sale|I just bought one from our local HF store for $119.00 I don't why I did not get one sooner. Tom --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" hold have | 775|775|2005-02-16 12:27:54|Troy|wanting ZAY really bad|Hi everyone, I'm pretty new to the group but I've been around long enough to end up with burning desire to own my very own ZAY mill. I realize they're currently out of stock so...I want to know how to secure the next available mill from Lathemaster. Is there a waiting list? Does Lathemaster accept down payments? Does anyone know the status of the new stock? I'm asking the group because I can't get an e-mail answer from Lathemaster. I read a while ago about calling Lathemaster but I can't find the phone number on the website. Does anyone have the phone number? Thanks for any info.| 776|775|2005-02-16 14:13:18|Brian Tuttle|Re: wanting ZAY really bad|Troy, You can call Bob at 225-377-7001, you will probably have to leave a message, but he will call you back. My email system seems to have a problem getting messages from Lathemaster also, but if you call, Bob will return your call. You will find Bob to be an extremely knowledgable, helpful, and interested person who will do everything in his power to make sure you get all the information you need and are satisfied with your purchases. Brian | 777|775|2005-02-16 14:22:08|Herb Mueller|Re: wanting ZAY really bad| I used the "Phone Book" on the web and came up with: Lathemaster 2930 Belmont Ave. Baton Rouge, LA 70808 ph# (225)377-7001 fax (866)728-6656 Herb Mueller Sherman, TX ********************************* Troy wrote: | 778|775|2005-02-16 15:21:27|mineralman55|Re: wanting ZAY really bad|If you really want one THAT badly, call Bob and speak with him. Ask him to sell you the ZAY off his shop floor. No, I'm not kidding. Larry New Orleans | 779|779|2005-02-16 19:04:03|mineralman55|Milling QCTP Tool Holders|Anyone who has milled the bottom of the QCTP holders to gain some extra vertical range for the tool holders see a downside to it? Larry| 780|779|2005-02-16 19:46:17|john labutski|Re: Milling QCTP Tool Holders| No down side except for the labor. This way you can use 1/2 " bits. Also it allows you to use the knurling tool that came with the set. The bigger inserts are usually on sale more often then the 3/8". It really depends on whether you want to shave off the compound or mill the holders. In my case I prefered to cut the tool holders and not mess with the compound. Even with .140 cut off the tool holders, they are still more ridgid than the tool post bolt on the series 100 tool posts. John | 781|781|2005-02-17 00:09:31|yrotc78u212|x3|i take it that the x3 mill doesnt have a spindle brake or lock,its the only thing i forgot to check before ordering. mark| 782|782|2005-02-17 00:20:33|Art Lundwall|too much runout|I just got my X3 setup on it's stand and I'm cleaning, measuring, and getting to know the mill. One thing I've noticed so far is that 'm getting a lot of runout, as much as .016" depending upon the collet/endmill combination. That seems excessive to me, I was looking for TIR in the .001-.002" range, but perhaps I'm wrong to expect that low of a number! But, assuming I'm right and that number IS excessive, what I don't know is where this is coming from. I don't know if it's the spindle, or the collets, or maybe just the way I'm taking the measurements. So far, these are the measurements I've gathered in an attempt to find the problem: 1. I measured the TIR at the bottom of the spindle with a dial indicator. The value was less than .001" (my indicator has .001" graduations). 2. At the top of the spindle, I measured the runout at the outside of the splines, and again, the value was less than .001" 3. I measured the taper at the bottom of the spindle, both at the top of the taper and at the bottom. Again, the TIR for this part of the spindle was less than .001" Those numbers seemed good to me, but whenever I insert a collet with a drill or endmill, and measure the runout of the shank of the tool just below the collet, I get numbers between .003" and .016", depending upon which collet I'm measuring. The final observation I made is this.... Out of the set of 8 collets I have, there are three of them that are VERY tight.. in fact, it's difficult to get them far enough into the spindle so that the drawbar can be threaded into them. These collets are also the ones with the highest amount of runout. The collets that go in easily typically have only a few thousandts runout. Could the upper, straight part of the spindle bore be bored off-center? It seems to me that if this were the case, it would cause runout because the collets would be forced into a slight bind as the top is drawn into a hole that's not concentric with the axis of the spindle. And, it seems logical that this would be worse on collets where there was a tighter fit between the top of the collet and the spindle bore. If that's not it, then I guess the only other thing it could be is the collets themselves... But it just seems unlikely to me that I wound up with three collets out of 8 that were messed up.... I don't recall seeing any other posts complaining about messed-up collets! So has anyone else had this problem? if so, are there any fixes, or does the spindle need to be replaced? Have I missed something obvious? I'm new to this, so forgive me if this is something I should already know! Thanks in advance, Art Lundwall| 783|781|2005-02-17 01:15:31|uptoolateman|Re: x3|Mark, The X3 doesn't have a way to hold the spindle while tightening or loosening the draw bar. There are a few things that you can do, 1) make a wrench that holds onto the splines on the upper part of the spindle as seen on Dan Kautz website under the visitor page of Bret Nemeth 2) make a spanner that fits the 2 holes on the face of the spindle, but this may not be of use on all tooling 3) use a strap wrench, I've had ok luck with this method but there is some slipping of the wrench. Just a few thoughts I'm sure others on the list have some other methods. Mike... --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "yrotc78u212" | 784|782|2005-02-17 01:21:04|uptoolateman|Re: too much runout|Art, I had a similar issue with the spindle being tight on some of my collets, I ended up removing the drive pin and deburing the spindle where it transitions from the taper to the straight part of the bore, I also had to do some light honing in the upper part of the bore (just .001 or so) to get all my tooling to fit. The drive pin on my X3 wouldn't let a lot of my collets to fully seat because it was too long, I wouldnt be surprized if the pin or the tight bore was causing you some issues. Mike... --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" and looking that spindle, measurements. find outside of top the with a just collets I drawbar the cause the the wound up or should | 785|782|2005-02-17 02:09:16|john labutski|Re: too much runout| You can't check the runout with a end mill or drill. You need a pin or plug gage. If the drills or end mills are coated and the coated portion enters the collet you will get exagerated run out. Also check the collets that don't fit and see if they have too shallow or narrow of a grove (slot). Remember there is a pin in the spindle that enters the slots on the collets to prevent them from rotating in the spindle under load. Yes there were posts about bad collets but not on this group. The collets were on the shallow and narrow end of the R8 spec and the pin in the spindle on a machine was on the big and deep side. Dressing with a stone or diamond lap cured the problem with the tight fit collets. There are spec's for R8 collets on the net. Also don't force tight collets, or you will deform the locking pin. John | 786|782|2005-02-17 08:17:38|Art Lundwall|Re: too much runout|Thanks for the replies. Just before I came in to read this, I found the very thing you all suggest checking is indeed the problem... the pin was too high, and was bottoming out on the index groove of some (not all) of my collets. And, the max deflection on the dial indicator happened precisely in line with the index pin, making me think that it was causing those collets to be kicked over away from the pin, causing the runout. I was able to push it in a bit, and now all the collets go in easily. I'll put the spindle back in and check the results tomorrow, if I get a chance. I'm cautiously optimistic. Thanks again, Art | 787|787|2005-02-21 00:07:05|tarfuking|Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|I just got off the phone with Bob. My 8x14 is going to ship to me either tomorrow (Monday) or Tuesday! Bob said he got in 40 8x14's and 10 9x30's. The underdrive is still in the works. He is still waiting on the factory's prototype to make sure it is made to his specifications and then he is planning on ordering a couple hundred. Along with the lathe I also ordered some spare belts, 1/2" drill chuck, and a boring bar set. I already have (from Bob): 7pc. indexable lathe tool set, 115pc. machinists drill set, and the live center set. I already have a dial indicator & base, measuring tools, taps & dies, etc. So, I think I'm ready to go when I get the lathe. I can't wait... -Mark| 788|787|2005-02-21 01:30:21|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|Good deal, I would like to see a 9x30 also...bob --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tarfuking" the | 789|787|2005-02-21 08:05:14|bluepalantir|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|Bob emailed me a picture of the 9x30 tonight and I posted it in the photos area. This lathe is a larger version of the 8x14. Same accessories as the 8x14 except it comes with a 5" 3 jaw instead of a 4". I believe he said he has 10 of 9x30's available and they're priced at $1100. Mitchell | 790|790|2005-02-21 15:39:26|Green, James|Head stock to cross slide alignment| This idea came from another group and I decided to give it try over this past weekend. I chucked up a piece of material that was 4" diameter and about an 1" thick in my lathe and faced off the end. Mounted an indicator on the cross slide and ran the indicator across the whole 4" diameter piece. I started at the edge that was closest to me and measured to the center of the work piece and I obtained .0001 movement during this first measurement. I picked up .0055 movement from the center of the work piece to the other outside edge. Tomorrow evening I will loosen the four cap screws that hold the head stock to the bed and see if I can't reduce this amount to under .001. Of course I will have to fiddle with the tail alignment afterwards. Has anybody else tried this adjustment???? James Green | 791|790|2005-02-21 16:35:09|john labutski|Re: Head stock to cross slide alignment| Don't mess with headstock alignment.   Almost always these are where they are supposed to be and are setup at the factory with a jig and fixture setup. Generally you should get a very slight concave surface on the faced off piece. This is the desired result. This compensates for spring in the lathe bit, tool post, compound spring, etc. I suggest you try your test again before you mess with the headstock. Its clear to me that something else besides the headstock is involved. It could be loose gibs at that point in cross travel. Also remove the faced off piece from the lathe and measure it. John Ocala Florida | 792|787|2005-02-21 16:47:45|John Labutski|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|Any idea how much the 9x30 lathes weigh? It sure looks like the perfect base for adding cnc to. Also is it a thread or flange mount spindle? John Ocala Florida --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tarfuking" the | 793|787|2005-02-21 21:45:01|Alan Trest|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|#300 plus. It took me and two of my friends to move mine. I could move (carefully) the 8x14 by myself. I've had it for about 2 years now. Superb machine. Mine has a flanged mount. I have not spoken to Bob so I'm not sure if the spindle mounting has changed. Alan T. --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "John Labutski" mount me 8x14's still his hundred. live | 794|794|2005-02-21 22:56:58|tfm37|Bob's Telephone Number|Has any one got Bob Bertrand's phone number. If so,could you post it.| 795|794|2005-02-21 23:02:10|Herb Mueller|Re: Bob's Telephone Number| LatheMaster 2930 Belmont Ave Baton Rouge, LA 70808 (225)377-7001 FAX (866)728-6656 ******************************************** tfm37 wrote: | 796|787|2005-02-22 00:48:32|Steve Schwing|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|WooHoo! Mine too! Talked with Bob today..Ships tomorrow... You guys have had me convinced for 2 months that this is the machine to go with... Can't wait! STeve| 797|787|2005-02-22 00:50:24|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Whoohoo! 8x14's came in!|THAT LEAVE'S 38 8X14'S LEFT. CONGRATS..BOB --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Schwing" machine | 798|798|2005-02-22 01:08:36|Mark Petersen|9x30s|Are the specs available for these amchines as of yet. ie Spindle mount, spindle bore and taper etc| 799|656|2005-02-22 02:52:18|tfm37|X3 Mill|On the Lathemaster web site I cannot find any reference to a"X3 Mill". He only lists one mill and it looks fairly large. Is it the X3? If it is not the X3 would some of you X3 owners care to give a short description of the X3 and approximate price?| 800|656|2005-02-22 03:47:30|uptoolateman|Re: X3 Mill|There are some past posts on the X3. Bob doesn't list them on his website, I'm not sure why. You have to either call him or email him to see what the availability is. the price was around $895 plus shipping which can be kind of high depending on how far away you live from Lathemaster, I paid $293 shipping to my front door in Oregon. The X3 weighs around 450lbs but can be broken down into managable chunks to move it onto the bench. The New X3 mills have a 6 1/4"x21" table and have travels of Y axis 5.9", X axis somewhere around 16-17" and Z axis around 10" max Z height I believe is somewhere around 14" on the new X3 model, I have a slightly older model with 11 1/2". It has a 600w variable speed dc motor max spindle speed is 2K and it has a 2 speed gear head with all metal gears. There are some pictures in the photo section and on this site http://www.tedatum.com/thms/shop13.html Hope this answers some of your questions. Mike.. | 801|801|2005-02-24 01:38:31|sherpols2016|Spindle size on the 8x14|What is the spindle diameter x TPI on the 8x14?| 802|802|2005-02-24 15:04:16|mineralman55|Tilting Vise|Someone recently emailed me regarding my HF 4" tilting vise, asking for the part numbers. HF seems to no longer carry the item I purchased, but I found the same vise in the new Wholesale Tools catalog. It's on pg. 455, order number 2108-0045 for $29. Good luck, Larry| 803|801|2005-02-24 15:38:43|john labutski|Re: Spindle size on the 8x14| The 8x14 is not a threaded spindle. It is flange mount for the chucks, backplate, collet chuck, etc. The flange mount allows you to make mounting plates quite easily if you decide to add larger chucks and still maintain concentricity. This way you don't have to fight the battle of making a threaded mounting plate. John Ocala Florida | 804|804|2005-02-25 01:11:22|yrotc78u212|x3 bench|whats a good table height for the x3 mill,me being 5'10".just got the mill and is sitting on the garage floor.and any tips or things to look at before starting it up other than cleaning it? thanks mark| 805|804|2005-02-25 01:56:58|uptoolateman|Re: x3 bench|Mark, I have my X3 on a 36" high bench and it seems about right for me. I'm 6' tall and the hand wheel for the Z axis is at a comfortable height to operate. Just make sure to clean everything really good especially inside the gear box and grease the gears. Mike... | 806|804|2005-02-25 02:15:40|john labutski|Re: x3 bench| I suggest you email Dan Kautz. Just compare your height to his along with his comments on things he might change. I cloned his lathe bench and am quite happy with the results. He has the most experience except for a few guys with the x3. Just make sure its easy to change collets. Also because of the table size, its easy to run sitting on a draftsmans stool.   john | 807|804|2005-02-25 05:15:50|mineralman55|Re: x3 bench|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "yrotc78u212" I'm 5"11", and have the X3 on a 41 inch high bench. It is very comfortable for me, as all three hand wheel controls are just right, and I can see everything on the table just right. Larry New Orleans| 808|804|2005-02-25 14:27:45|Green, James|Re: x3 bench| Mike How did you go about cleaning inside the gear box???? James From: uptoolateman [mailto:b.foti@...] Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 6:56 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Re: x3 bench Mark, I have my X3 on a 36" high bench and it seems about right for me. I'm 6' tall and the hand wheel for the Z axis is at a comfortable height to operate. Just make sure to clean everything really good especially inside the gear box and grease the gears. Mike... --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "yrotc78u212" thanks mark | 809|804|2005-02-25 17:34:15|yrotc78u212|x3 bench|cranked the bridgeport table at work to a comfortable height and measured from the floor to the top of the table.this obviuosly will be the total table height for the x3 for me.machine came with 7/16-20 drawbar not the metric thread i thought it was to have,this after i had the boss order a length of threaded rod to make a drawbar to fit the r8 collets.and yes,the collets dont fit because the pin is a mile long.up to now,but still on the garage floor,it seems to be a nice machine,the x axis lead screw is supported on the left side of the table,a kill switch is now on the front of the machine and the crank handles are cast metal.i was expecting plastic.thanks for your replys. mark| 810|804|2005-02-25 20:23:21|uptoolateman|Re: x3 bench|James, I sprayed a little WD40 onto the gears and used a tooth brush to knock the swarf and sand off everything, I also used a screwdriver to knock some of the sand out of the corners. I had my shop vac with a 1/2" piece of tubing taped to the end of the hose so I could get into the hard to reach places. After I was sure all of the debris was gone I regreased all the gears with Mobil1 synthetic grease, it's the pink stuff and it's slick and sticky. I used some large foam tipped swabs I found at surplus store to apply the grease. the oil port for the gears is useles on my machine the oil misses the gears and just drops down to the bottom of the headstck casting, I think grease is probably better anyway. Mike... --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" wrote: things <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=1293t40lu/M=298184.6018725.7038619.300117 6/ D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1109375819/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*h tt M=298184.6018725.7038619.3001176/D=group subject=Unsubscribe | 811|509|2005-02-25 20:57:00|Kenneth Cardolino|Re: X3 drive belt|Been a while since visiting the group. I was running production on my X3 and finally wore right thru the belt. Gave up looking for a replacement. The timing pulleys were sharp enough to fillet fish with. I first adapted to a XL timing belt set-up (I had the pulleys and belts in stock) I stepped up the speed as well. Bore both pulleys to 12mm with 4mm keyways. Stock pulleys are 16 tooth motor and 26 tooth gearbox. Stock belt has 65 teeth at @6mm pitch. This worked great until the gear train started seizing up!! Too fast I guess. My solution was expensive but worth every penny. I went with direct V belt drive from a 56C VFD driven three phase motor. SWEET. No more backlash riddled geartrain. I am even working on a interface to use with DeskCNC to give me programmed control of speed and direction. I posted a couple pics in the KDN Tool folder. Just need to neaten up the wiring and make up a gaurd. Ken --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "cba_melbourne" It's like converted | 812|812|2005-02-25 21:00:20|mineralman55|End Mill Remedy|I have a minor fix to share with the group. I purchased both sets of 2 and 4 flute TiN coated endmills from Lathemaster. The largest end mills (1") of both sets wouldn't fit into my end mill holders (they fit the collets just fine). It seems the manufacturer was overzeolous in its application of the TiN coating, and the shafts ended up several "tenths" oversized. Chucking them into the 8x14 and filing didn't work at all. The TiN coating is too hard for Nicolson files. I was hesitant to use a lathe bit on them as it would probably take too much off. Instead, I pulled out the diamond files from Lathemaster and within a minute, they easily removed the TiN coating. A quick touch up with the smoothing file polished the HSS shafts, and they now fit the end mill holders beautifully. Larry New Orleans| 813|804|2005-02-26 04:37:17|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 bench|Mark, I have it on the oricginal Sieg factory steel cabinet. Its 900mm (35.5") high. As I am 6ft high, I added a plywood base to make the cabinet 960mm (38") high. Fine for me, the mill table ends up 1180mm (46.5") from floor. Chris| 814|804|2005-02-26 04:46:49|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 bench|I took it completely apart. The only tricky thing good to know: to push out the two shafts for the 2-speed gearbox you need to access them from below. There are two tapered cast iron plugs at the bottom of the head casting. You need to tap them out from the inside using a long rod (one solid blow and they pop out). Then I used a high pressure washer to clean the inside. The gears greatly benefit from deburring and chamfering, its now much easier to change speed setting without having to rotate the spindle for the gears to engage. Chris| 815|509|2005-02-26 04:50:27|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 drive belt|Ken, VFD is ultimately the way to go. I will keep using it a while as is, until the belt breaks. Then its VFD, and the original X3 DC motor and controller will get a new life in my 4x6 bandsaw. Chris| 816|509|2005-02-26 15:13:53|Mark Frasca|Re: X3 drive belt| Dear cba_melbourne, Have you tried locating the timing belts from, http://www.piesau.com.au/pies4.html An a different note, what lubricants do you use for the metal gears? Lithium Grease or high viscous Oil? Cheers, Mark. | 817|817|2005-02-26 22:49:53|Mark|8x14 Oil|What oil do you all use for lubrication on your 8x14? Any recommendations? The manual just says to use "20# machine oil." So, what should I pickup when I go to KBC Tools on Monday? Thanks, -Mark| 818|509|2005-02-27 00:37:28|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 drive belt|Mark, I used a common lithium grease. Time will tell if it was the good choice. Chris| 819|817|2005-02-27 00:56:56|mineralman55|Re: 8x14 Oil|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" motor oil on the exposed cast iron parts. It seems to keep surface rust away, which is a real effort down here. I also keep the machines covered when not in use. Larry New Orleans| 820|804|2005-02-27 17:40:26|yrotc78u212|Re: x3 bench|chris where can i get this factory cabinet and how much? thanks mark make | 821|804|2005-02-27 17:56:25|uptoolateman|Re: x3 bench|Mark, Lathemaster sells a couple of nice benches that have drawers on ball bearing slides, there's a wide one for a lathe and a narrower on for a mill. They are on his ebay list. I think somebody on the list bought one for their X3 and there are some pictures of the mill sitting on the bench in the photos section. Mike... | 822|804|2005-02-27 23:45:38|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 bench|Mark, here in Australia all dealers selling the X3 have it as an option (and the number of dealers is increasing as the X3 becomes more popular). I paid AU$195 (US$153) for it. I thought it would cost me more making a stand from plywood. I also liked it because it is higher than the usual Chinese machine benches, and it has a nice design to it following all the way down the irregular footprint of the X3. It comes in a crate almost the size of an X3 crate cause its all welded up, no screws. It's made of thin gauge though, the black paint is a very thin coat of inferior quality, and the interior "already rusts in the sales brochure". The adjustable X3 feets screw under this stand, whilst the X3 is bolted onto the stand. It has a smallish lockable door and a double shelf inside, just big enough to store two vises. I would still buy it again. Chris| 823|509|2005-02-28 12:53:15|Mark Frasca|Re: X3 drive belt| Hi Chris, There are many lithium type greases on the market. I have a CRC White Lithium grease sold in an aerosol can but it looks too thin for this application. Which one in particular are you using? Cheers, Mark. | 824|509|2005-02-28 13:00:43|Mark Frasca|Re: X3 drive belt| Hi Ken, What do you mean by the gear train seizing up? Would this setup work if you kept similar ratios on the belt and pulleys? Thanks, Mark. | 825|509|2005-02-28 13:38:01|cba_melbourne|Re: X3 drive belt|Mark, I just use the same high pressure grease that I put in my tractor grease gun. I do not think it matters much (the gears are anyways only soft cast iron). What matters is to apply the grease regularly. The two grease nipples on the right side of the head are virtually useless, they do not guide the grease between the gear teeth. I open the top cover and side cover and apply grease manually. Chris PS: I could imagine a very sticky product like the spray cans used for motorcycle chains could be a good alternative. Have not tried it though.| 826|804|2005-02-28 14:10:15|yrotc78u212|x3 bench|chris is this the bench your talking about at this web site? http://www.gimbal.com.au/metalworking/x3mill.php mark| 827|817|2005-02-28 14:29:44|Green, James|Re: 8x14 Oil| I use 3-n-1 oil in all of those oil ports...... James From: Mark [mailto:tarfuking@...] Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 3:50 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] 8x14 Oil What oil do you all use for lubrication on your 8x14? Any recommendations? The manual just says to use "20# machine oil." So, what should I pickup when I go to KBC Tools on Monday? Thanks, -Mark | 828|817|2005-02-28 21:08:34|Bell, Gregory K|Re: 8x14 Oil| I just received my 8x14 last week and had a ball cleaning it up and playing with some aluminum round stock this weekend. After reading all the postings about the appropriate grease for the X3, I assume white lithium will be O.K. for the lathe's gears and 3-in1 oil is O.K. in all those oil ports. My question is... How do you get the 3-in-1 oil past those spring-loaded ball seals over the oil port? The plastic nozzle on my bottle of 3-in-1 is not hard enough to push the ball seals down so the oil can get in. Should I have bought a separate oiler with a metal nozzle? Greg Bell Westerville, OH | 829|817|2005-02-28 21:27:45|Green, James|Re: 8x14 Oil| Greg: To be honest the only oil / grease that I've used on my 8 x 14 is 3-n-1 oil in the oil ports... I've owned my lathe for almost 18 months now and no failures.... Hit a hobby shop and pick up a small bottle of oil that the RC guys use. Toss the oil and keep the bottle. These small bottles will have a needle type metal nozzle. James P.S. If you had a wonderful time cleaning your 8 x14, head to my house and you can help me with my X3 that will arrive on the 17th of March.... :) Currently my X3 is under Lathemaster storage plan. I paid for the mill a few weeks ago and will take delivery during the warmer climates of March. From: Bell, Gregory K [mailto:gbell@...] Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 2:09 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [lathemaster] 8x14 Oil I just received my 8x14 last week and had a ball cleaning it up and playing with some aluminum round stock this weekend. After reading all the postings about the appropriate grease for the X3, I assume white lithium will be O.K. for the lathe's gears and 3-in1 oil is O.K. in all those oil ports. My question is... How do you get the 3-in-1 oil past those spring-loaded ball seals over the oil port? The plastic nozzle on my bottle of 3-in-1 is not hard enough to push the ball seals down so the oil can get in. Should I have bought a separate oiler with a metal nozzle? Greg Bell Westerville, OH | 830|804|2005-02-28 22:12:26|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 bench|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "yrotc78u212" 3/4" plywood sheed on top between mill and bench, and a base socket of 3x 3/4" plywood under it, because I am tall and do not like to bend too far to work on the mill table. Chris PS: this is the first chinese small machine tool metal stand I come across, that was not designed for midgets. They begin to learn what we want.| 831|804|2005-02-28 23:16:33|jkrampjr|Re: x3 bench|Has anyone purchased this workbench/lathe stand? A height of 34" doesn't seem tall enough. Is this the correct measurement? John --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "uptoolateman" ball for | 832|804|2005-03-01 05:29:26|rustkolector|Re: x3 bench|Mark, That bench looks almost exactly like the Harbor Freight #42977-1VGA stand ($89)for their #42976-3VGA mill drill. Last time I saw one, it looked pretty poorly made and was very rusty inside. I doubt very much that Sieg actually made it. Compare the HF dimensions. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42977 Jeff | 833|804|2005-03-01 11:06:05|cba_melbourne|Re: x3 bench|it itemnumber=42977 Jeff, the sieg X3 stand is nothing like the one in your link. The only common features are the color and the rust inside dislikes the sandy texture of rust? Chris| 834|804|2005-03-01 14:52:58|yrotc78u212|x3 bench|chris do you have a part number for the bench?i want to call lathemaster to see if he can get one mark| 835|804|2005-03-01 14:53:45|Patrick Okeeffe|Re: x3 bench|I am the owner of the stand at gimbal.com.au - no rust inside mine yet - just losing its insecticide smell though :-) Nice stand though - I am glad I bought it. | 836|836|2005-03-01 23:00:56|David|(no subject)|Hi, guys I have been reading and researching a bit, and I'm convinced: Lathemaster is the way to go for a mid sized lathe. I have heard nothing but good about the 8x14, but very little about the 9x20....since 9x20 seems to be a kind of "crossover" sive between the small lathes and the big boys, I am leaning towards that end, but would like to know anybody's personal experiece with them. Does it stack up against the 8x14 for fit/finish/repeatability/tolerences? Would love to hear any feedback! Thanks! David H.| 837|836|2005-03-02 04:46:39|mineralman55|9x20 vs 8x14 vs ...|The 8x14 is amazingly finished right out of the box. I am very happy with mine. I've seen Bob's 9x20 and it looks to be a very nice machine, but I'll stick with the 8x14 for now. If you want/need a bigger lathe, ask Bob about his new model 10x30. It is similar to the 8x14, but bigger. Seemed to be just as well finished too. Larry | 838|838|2005-03-02 04:52:39|daddyo217|Belt Sander for Small Workshop|I've been shopping for a good belt sander with a disk sander on the side. I want a nice table on both sander stations. These things run from $225 (Harbor Freight) to $500 or so with shipping from Grizzly. In the past, I've seen the $150 and less units like Lowe's carries and Sears and don't think that quality is good enough for what I desire. Harbor Freight has one on sale like I'm looking for: 40643 link - http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf? itemnumber=40643 The belt station would be set upright most of the time for me. I like this one because it has a mitre table for EACH station; don't want to move the table from one side to the other as some units need you to do. What I need to know is: Does anyone have one and can speak about it's build quality and how noisey is it? It's on sale for a good price but I need to know if it is worth the money. I also like the Grizzly model that seems similar but costs over $450 with shipping... Thanks all! Daddyo| 839|836|2005-03-02 05:47:35|gmdagena2000|non-lathemaster 9x20|I own the griz 9x20 and the VERY active 9x20 group has mostly positive things to say about it. It needs a 4-bolt compound clamp to be more rigid, but it is usable out of the crate. Some, not many, have had burrs on the lead screw keyway (needed to drive the worm feed) that chew up the half-nuts. All in all, the 9x20 might needs a little more going through than the lathemaster (simply because of the more compelxity), but the Lathemaster probably some tweaking/ TLC out of the crate before it becomes a fully capable machine. That is the nature of all low cost Asian equipment. Even the large lathes need a little, though not as much as the small machines. On the other hand, I can switch from more of a roughing feed to fine finishing feed just by moving the gearbox lever from position 1 to position 9. I also, dispite how others feel, like the worm feed, as it preserves the accuracy of the LS threads. I'm happy with it. Join the 9x20 group, and search the archives and then you can get a more general consensus of the strengths and weaknesses of the machine. This issue, The quality of the 9x20, has been hashed out many times. Regards, Gabe | 840|836|2005-03-02 05:56:58|gmdagena2000|Re: 9x20 vs 8x14 vs ...|The LM 9x20 seems to be a nicely constructed lathe. It's less complex than the other 9x20s and therefore has less potential bugs. I'm just a bit leary of inexpensive gearhead lathes in general as low cost belt drive machines are often easier to fix for the HSM and don't require special tooling to fix, if something in the drivetrain goes. If I go gear head, I'd want hardened alloy steel gears running in an oil bath, like the large lathes. Regards, Gabe | 841|838|2005-03-02 16:53:56|john labutski|Re: Belt Sander for Small Workshop| I have the harbor freight disk sander you mention. I paid 179.00 but it floats between 149.00 and 199.00 price wise. The problem I found with it is that the table is flimsy at best. If your willing to get a couple of pieces of hot finish steel plate, you can add tables for both the disk and belt sides. The stand, motor,bearings and belt rollers, and switches are fine. A few (about 4) hours of work will give you a reasonable setup for 400.00 to 600.00 less than others. The disk side uses odd ball (9") sanding disks. So I purchase 10" disks and cut them down. Unless you need the surface area for large pieces, I suggest you look at the enco 163-4512. I had one in this style before I moved to Florida and found it very handy. However mine had a cast iron table for the disk side. Don't know if this one has cast iron or the pot metal like the HF. Either way, plan on spending a bit of time to beef up the tables on the HF if you get it. Also buy good quality belts. The belts that come with the HF suck. John Ocala Florida | 842|836|2005-03-02 17:30:39|john labutski|Re: 9x20 vs 8x14 vs ...| I have had a 9x20 HF and sold it and now have the 8x14. I regularly turn down up 3" stock in Aluminum and cast iron. The finish I get with the lathemaster is superior to that which I was able to obtain with the 9x20 HF.  Since I regularly uses taps and dies, gearbox threading was low on my priority list. If the 10x30 that Lathemaster now offers is scaled up from the 8x14, I would now get that one. Eventually I will add VFD to the 8x14. The thing I like is that they have excellent leadscrews. My 9x20 HF had a 9/16" lead screw the 8x14 has a 3/4" lead screw. This results in less spring to the saddle and therefore a much better finish. Personally I would talk to Bob at lathemaster. If he recommends something based on your use buy it. He has plenty of buyers for his equipment and he makes every effort to make sure what you buy meets your requirements. I am rougher on machines than most guys and have really pushed lathemaster machines to their limits. They still keep on running. In fact I am surprised I haven't broke something. I don't recommend this approach to machining to any one. However, in my case, I have severe arthritis in the hands and just have to crank out my projects before the pain pills wear off. Would I buy another Lathemaster 8x14? In a heartbeat! In fact I may get another one because changing from the 3 jaw to the 5C chuck is difficult for me because of my hands. One of my friends just got a 5" bison reversible 3 jaw for his 8x14. Maybe James would like to offer his comments. Its kind of hard to explain, but when I first got the 8x14, I had to call Bob and say its just plain "nice". It just has that feel of quality that few imports have. The 3 jaw that came with it spun quite true .001 to .002 and the optional collet chuck just gives the home hobbiest guy pretty well what he needs to do very nice work without spending $3,000- $4000 bucks for a german lathe. John Ocala Florida | 843|836|2005-03-02 19:05:14|Green, James|Re: 9x20 vs 8x14 vs ...| In my opinion there is only two issues with the 8x14. 1. feed rate too fast 2. bed too short. I changed two gears in the gear train to slow down the feed but I would like to obtain a .0025 feed rate for those mirror like finishes. The manual states .005 is the slowest feed rate for the 8x14 with OEM gears. I have determined the .005 feed rate is closer to .0065. The continuation of slowing down the feed rate is a bit more involved and I'll wait until I have my milling machine up and running. I added a 5" Bison reversible 3 jaw chuck to my 8x14 and in the process basically made my lathe into 8x12 lathe. But it's a better chuck and I gained more chuck throat diameter. Can I turn tight tolerances?? You bet!!!!! For the past 5 days I've been working on pistons for a father and son team who are creating seven hit and miss engines for Christmas presents. Catching +/- .0005 tolerance on these lathes is rather easy. Don't tell John that I've been working on pistons since I am suppose to be working on my VFD project so he can follow suite. :) I have re-measured every item within the inspection records and even a few of my own and still haven't adjusted any settings.  Even the gib settings were correct when I uncrated the lathe. James From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...] Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:32 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [lathemaster] 9x20 vs 8x14 vs ... I have had a 9x20 HF and sold it and now have the 8x14. I regularly turn down up 3" stock in Aluminum and cast iron. The finish I get with the lathemaster is superior to that which I was able to obtain with the 9x20 HF.  Since I regularly uses taps and dies, gearbox threading was low on my priority list. If the 10x30 that Lathemaster now offers is scaled up from the 8x14, I would now get that one. Eventually I will add VFD to the 8x14. The thing I like is that they have excellent leadscrews. My 9x20 HF had a 9/16" lead screw the 8x14 has a 3/4" lead screw. This results in less spring to the saddle and therefore a much better finish. Personally I would talk to Bob at lathemaster. If he recommends something based on your use buy it. He has plenty of buyers for his equipment and he makes every effort to make sure what you buy meets your requirements. I am rougher on machines than most guys and have really pushed lathemaster machines to their limits. They still keep on running. In fact I am surprised I haven't broke something. I don't recommend this approach to machining to any one. However, in my case, I have severe arthritis in the hands and just have to crank out my projects before the pain pills wear off. Would I buy another Lathemaster 8x14? In a heartbeat! In fact I may get another one because changing from the 3 jaw to the 5C chuck is difficult for me because of my hands. One of my friends just got a 5" bison reversible 3 jaw for his 8x14. Maybe James would like to offer his comments. Its kind of hard to explain, but when I first got the 8x14, I had to call Bob and say its just plain "nice". It just has that feel of quality that few imports have. The 3 jaw that came with it spun quite true .001 to .002 and the optional collet chuck just gives the home hobbiest guy pretty well what he needs to do very nice work without spending $3,000- $4000 bucks for a german lathe. John Ocala Florida | 844|836|2005-03-02 21:11:27|gmdagena2000|HF 8x12 VS 8x14|I've been looking at the lathemaster machines and the HF 8x12 mini- lathe looks remarkably the same in the castings and capacities. Here's a Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf? itemnumber=44859 Any idea of these machines are of the same origin? Regards, Gabe| 845|509|2005-03-02 22:39:34|Kenneth Cardolino|Re: X3 drive belt|I mean I went up-stairs while it was running and returned to a humming, stalled motor and broken endmill combined with that sweet burnt electrical smell. It did free back up with a little help but it seized enough to stall the motor. If I had kept the stock pulley ratios it probably would not have happened. Ken --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Frasca" work if you kept similar ratios on the belt and pulleys? on my pulleys pulleys direct V more use direction. I up drive anything its cogwheels? Thanks, ---------- Service.| 846|846|2005-03-02 22:51:24|Troy|Re: BELTSANDER|I've got the Harbor Freight sander you speak of. I have sure enjoyed it. For the price ($229 delivered)it's hard to find an equivalent. It's a little crude in fit and finish but everything works like it should. One might expect a flimsy stand coming from Harbor Freight but to my surprize it was quite stout. It makes short work out of metal let alone wood. It seems to have plenty of power for my needs. If noise is a big concern then you may want to give this thing a miss. It is pretty loud but I don't know how it compairs to other similar sanders. I was also quite surprized how long the belt and disc lasts. Troy| 847|836|2005-03-03 17:21:01|mineralman55|Re: 9x20 vs 8x14 vs ...|By request, my 8x14 came equipped with the generic 5" 3-jaw, mostly because I needed the larger thru hole capacity (it's Bison, but it works just fine. As I've said in earlier posts, the 8x14 should come with a 5" chuck. I traded my 7x12 for the 8x14. Never looked back. BTW, for the man asking the questions about the HF 8x12, although the HF 8x12 may be from the same basic design as our 8x14 (lots of Chinese manufacturers share blueprints), I believe the 8x12's execution is sub-par. The leadscrew is smaller, the handles are plastic, and it doesn't come with chip pan, splash guard, 4 jaw, steady or follower rests. Those alone would jack up the cost of the HF item past the 8x14. It may be more readily available, but I'll take the properly executed item every time. Larry --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" rate too would The gears. and a 5" I've seven even a with the was will lead much your In this severe before the may get difficult to quite nice want/need end, <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=12953o1rs/M=298184.6018725.7038619.300117 6/ D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1109863839/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*h tt M=298184.6018725.7038619.3001176/D=group subject=Unsubscribe Terms | 848|846|2005-03-03 19:18:09|daddyo217|Re: BELTSANDER|Thanks Troy for the feedback. I'm thinking about the noise - I already have a small belt sander that just screams LOUD! It's table is quite flimsy which is OK for sanding some wooden things but not too good for metalwork, so I'm looking for something more substantial but also quieter (if possible). I'm not sure what I'll do now... Thanks again. Daddyo | 849|849|2005-03-04 14:18:15|two4tom|Does anyone know the free shipping code for enco for this month?|Does anyone know the free shipping code for enco for this month? Thank you Tom| 850|849|2005-03-04 22:32:44|jkrampjr|Re: Does anyone know the free shipping code for enco for this month?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "two4tom" John Does anyone know the free shipping code for enco for this month? | 851|849|2005-03-04 22:34:04|tfm37|Re: Does anyone know the free shipping code for enco for this month?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "two4tom" | 852|852|2005-03-08 00:28:42|grgkbell|X3 mill dimensions|Can anyone tell me the physical dimensions (height, width and depth) of the X3 mill? I want to build a bench large enough for both my newly-received 8 x 14 lathe and an X3 (which I hope to buy this summer). My basement shop area has a very low ceiling and I want to make sure the X3 will sit on the bench and clear the ceiling height. Thanks, Greg Bell Westerville OH| 853|853|2005-03-08 02:51:06|torkey306|8x14s still in stock?|Does Bob have any 8 x 14 lathes left? Ive done the order machines email thingy on the site numerous times with no reply, a few weeks back when I inquired about not recieving my band saw yet(out of stock)and he said he had them(8 x 14), but I cannot get a reply to get one ordered. Is there another means of contacting them(no phone number on website)? I hope his ebay auctions get timely replies..........hehe. Id gladly wait it out if they are out of stock, but at this point I just want to know yes or no and if no, how long. damn I am impatient on giving my money away. Sorry for the rant. Spence| 854|853|2005-03-08 14:24:56|Green, James|Re: 8x14s still in stock?| Go to the web site and click on an item that is in stock. Add this item to your basket and the next screen will produce his phone number......... Call him in the evenings........ James From: torkey306 [mailto:torkey306@...] Sent: Monday, March 07, 2005 6:57 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] 8x14s still in stock? Does Bob have any 8 x 14 lathes left? Ive done the order machines email thingy on the site numerous times with no reply, a few weeks back when I inquired about not recieving my band saw yet(out of stock)and he said he had them(8 x 14), but I cannot get a reply to get one ordered. Is there another means of contacting them(no phone number on website)? I hope his ebay auctions get timely replies..........hehe. Id gladly wait it out if they are out of stock, but at this point I just want to know yes or no and if no, how long. damn I am impatient on giving my money away. Sorry for the rant. Spence | 855|853|2005-03-08 14:37:12|Herb Mueller|Re: 8x14s still in stock?| LatheMaster 2930 Belmont Ave Baton Rouge, LA 70808 (225)377-7001 FAX (866)728-6656 *********************** Herb Mueller Sherman, TX ******************************************** torkey306 wrote: | 856|852|2005-03-09 00:14:28|Art Lundwall|Re: X3 mill dimensions|Greg, I am at work now, but I'll try to get you the dimensions you're looking for tonight. I just got an X3, and a 9x30 lathe, but I don't have them on the same bench as you're planning. I built a bench for my X3, and the top is 22" square, leaving me more than enough room for the machine itself. I took some pictures of the bench, and if my internet connection at home is restored tonight, I'll post a link to the photos so you can see them. Otherwise, I'll try to get it done tomorrow morning from work. Art | 857|852|2005-03-09 09:45:32|Art Lundwall|Re: X3 mill dimensions|Greg, The stand I built for my X3 is about 34.5" tall. The spindle shaft cover is the tallest part of the head, and is about 74" off the floor with the head at its highest point. The base of the X3 measures about 13.25 inches wide and 16.5" front to back. However, the machine itself overhangs the base on every side. The total distance from the back of the column to the forwardmost point (the handle on the Z-axis wheel) is 26", and the distance from the back of the column to the front of the base is 21". The column overhangs the back of the base by about 4 and a half inches. The max x envelope is 45.5", which is the distance from the left end of the table at it's leftmost point to the right end of the x wheel at it's rightmost point. I forgot to mention the width of the table itself, but it moves about 16.5", so that means that from the left end to the end of the handle of the x wheel must be about 29". There is no hand wheel on the left side, so I guess if you are planning on putting the x3 on the right, you don't need to add allowances for laying your hand on a left-side wheel. If you elect not to use the leveling feet, and bolt the base directly to the bench, be aware that the z-wheel will have to hang over the front of the bench, because the bottom of it is lower than the bottom of the base. If you like, you can see a picture of the mill on my stand at the following URL. Beware, the pics are pretty big, so if you're on dial up, you can go get a beer while you wait:-) http://www.conservatopia.com/images/shop/millandblast.jpg and a closeup of the mill at: http://www.conservatopia.com/images/shop/mill.jpg I hope this helps. Let me know if you need any measurements I didn't take. Art | 858|852|2005-03-09 15:02:33|mineralman55|Re: X3 mill dimensions|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Art Lundwall" We're all waiting for a report! :-) Larry| 859|852|2005-03-09 19:21:46|Bell, Gregory K|Re: X3 mill dimensions| Thanks, Art. This is very helpful. I may have enough height clearance in my basement if I can position the X3 so the spindle shaft cover goes up between the floor joists! My house was built in 1907... I guess people were a bit shorter in those days. Greg | 860|860|2005-03-09 23:17:46|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|what about Bob?|Hi gang, I go an email a few days from an unhappy group member. I deleted it, but he did have 1 good point. What happens the the Lathemaster lathe lineup if something would happen to Bob? Parts? Just thought i would pass his thoughts along...Bob W.| 861|852|2005-03-09 23:53:12|Art Lundwall|Re: X3 mill dimensions|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" Well, I don't know how much I can report... I'm learning to use the tools as I go. I only got the lathe set up on Saturday, and I've only used it once to turn a piece of brass down. I still have to do a thorough cleaning to get all the red goop off. But my first impression is that the lathe works very well. The controls have a good feel to them. I was originally going to get the 8x14. And frankly, it probably would have been fine, but I changed my mind and went with the 9x30 just in case I needed the extra length in the future. I have to say that I was unprepared for the size when I actually got it in my hands... The overall length is probably about 50". I really like the x3 as well, though I've only had that a short time also. I had a small issue with the spindle, but Bob helped me with that. Other than that, it only needed to be cleaned up a bit. The only thing I've done with it so far is mill the box for the DRO350. I have a couple simple projects that I'm planning which will get me used to both machines. I'm looking forward to getting started on them this weekend. Art| 862|852|2005-03-10 00:19:12|john labutski|Re: X3 mill dimensions| Don't be to eager to get your x3 way up in the air. The chips flying off of it tend to go up at about a 45 degree angle. It's better they hit you below the chest then up around your neck. John Ocala Florida | 863|860|2005-03-10 00:26:27|john labutski|Re: what about Bob?| Since Lathemaster is a successful family owned and run business, I would assume the business would continue under family operation. Even if it was sold, no buyer would throw away a successful track record and additional sales. Also, there are thousands of people looking to buy and run a going and successful business. John Ocala Florida | 864|852|2005-03-10 06:31:09|mineralman55|Re: X3 mill dimensions|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" flying off of it tend to go up at about a 45 degree angle. It's better they hit you below the chest then up around your neck. The way the x3 can throw chips made cleanup a chore. For a while I held the shop vacuum nozzle next to the endmill to directly suck up the chips. Effective, but not a good solution. So I made a nifty chip shield out of three pieces of 3/32 plexiglass and four 1" 90 degree angle brackets. I simply Gorilla glued the plexiglass to the angle brackets in the corners. There's a small cutout in the front bottom for the 3" screwless vise and another cutout in the upper left rear to clear the motor. The chip screen rests directly on my table. It contains over 90% of the chips right on the x3 table and base. Not too bad for $18. As soon as I get an electronic picture, I'll post it. Larry| 865|865|2005-03-10 17:56:51|tauntdesigns|What items should I buy with my lathe?|Hello Group, I'm a new member and would like say thank you for the wealth of info in your posts. I was about to make a mistake and buy some Grizzly stuff, when I came across this group and started reading and reading............ I'll be ordering a 8x14 (unless I should buy 9x30???? they both look nice), X3 mill, and the bandsaw. What accessories should I get now, or should I say, what will I wish, I had gotten with my order? QCTP, 5C collect, etc..... Thanks, Jack P.S. 20+ years of tring to be a real machinist... maybe 40 more and I'll be there :)| 866|865|2005-03-10 18:20:00|Green, James|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?| The QCTP from Bob is a nice item, but if you get the milled down compound, then you will have to strengthen the mounting stud for the QCTP. The mounting stud will flex during parting and knurling operations without this modification. You can leave the 5C collet chuck for a down the road purchase. You can use a dial indicator and get your chuck within .001 of TIR very easily. A 5" three jaw chuck is also a nice item, Bob offers them or you can obtain a Bison. Don't forget the 2MT drill chuck and live center..... Don't forget 3/8" square cutting tools. LMS offers indexable 3/8" cutters that accept HSS inserts........ IMO, skip the bandsaw from Lathemaster and purchase a horizontal / vertical bandsaw from Enco, HF or Grizzly. James Green P.S. I would love to see a picture of the 10x30 that Bob offers......... From: tauntdesigns [mailto:tauntdesigns@...] Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 2:10 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] What items should I buy with my lathe? Hello Group, I'm a new member and would like say thank you for the wealth of info in your posts. I was about to make a mistake and buy some Grizzly stuff, when I came across this group and started reading and reading............ I'll be ordering a 8x14 (unless I should buy 9x30???? they both look nice), X3 mill, and the bandsaw. What accessories should I get now, or should I say, what will I wish, I had gotten with my order? QCTP, 5C collect, etc..... Thanks, Jack P.S. 20+ years of tring to be a real machinist... maybe 40 more and I'll be there :) | 867|865|2005-03-10 18:36:39|john labutski|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?| If you have the free cash get Bob's 5C collet chuck $249.00 along with some collets from Bob. With respect to the 10x30 just tell Bob what you plan to use the lathe for. He will point you in the right direction. I got the live center kit from Lathemaster with the different tips. It is really nice setup.  I love Bobs cobalt lathe bits, They really hold an edge. I also have his boring head. You might also consider the 6" rotary table or his spindex with the tail stock. Very good prices on those items at lathemaster. If your new to machining, just start with these basic's and purchase additional items as you come across a need. If you have the space, the 7045fg mill is great, but its a lot bigger than the pictures imply. You will need a shop crane ($179.00 from HF) to get it on the bench. I have the folding HF crane and its well worth the price when you consider the weight of all your machines. Its just makes moving your mill, lathe,etc. easy instead of dangerous. The same goes for the x3. Its a heck of a lot more mill then the HF mini-mill and you will not be having chatter or busting cutters due to flex in the gibs or table when you machine steel or cast iron. John Ocala Florida . ----- Original Message ----- | 868|865|2005-03-10 19:08:48|Green, James|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?| John brought up a good point about rotary tables.......  Does 6" rotaty table fit on an X3????? A nice ShumaTech DRO setup on your milling machine is also a good idea. James Green From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...] Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 11:37 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [lathemaster] What items should I buy with my lathe? If you have the free cash get Bob's 5C collet chuck $249.00 along with some collets from Bob. With respect to the 10x30 just tell Bob what you plan to use the lathe for. He will point you in the right direction. I got the live center kit from Lathemaster with the different tips. It is really nice setup.  I love Bobs cobalt lathe bits, They really hold an edge. I also have his boring head. You might also consider the 6" rotary table or his spindex with the tail stock. Very good prices on those items at lathemaster. If your new to machining, just start with these basic's and purchase additional items as you come across a need. If you have the space, the 7045fg mill is great, but its a lot bigger than the pictures imply. You will need a shop crane ($179.00 from HF) to get it on the bench. I have the folding HF crane and its well worth the price when you consider the weight of all your machines. Its just makes moving your mill, lathe,etc. easy instead of dangerous. The same goes for the x3. Its a heck of a lot more mill then the HF mini-mill and you will not be having chatter or busting cutters due to flex in the gibs or table when you machine steel or cast iron. John Ocala Florida . ----- Original Message ----- | 869|865|2005-03-10 19:46:25|tauntdesigns|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|There's a photo of it in the PHOTOS section of this group. Jack| 870|865|2005-03-10 23:33:04|Art Lundwall|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "tauntdesigns" You can see a pic of my 9x30 here: http://www.conservatopia.com/images/shop/lathe.jpg and with my mountain bike in the pic to give it some scale here: http://www.conservatopia.com/images/shop/lathebike.jpg The pics are pretty big, which is why I'm linking to them. If you have broadband, they'll load pretty quickly... but if you're on dial up, it may take a couple minutes. They're not the best pics, but I took them in a hurry. They don't do the lathe justice... they were taken almost immediately after uncrating the lathe, so it's still got all the factory grease on it. Art| 871|865|2005-03-11 02:59:06|tauntdesigns|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|Art, Nice looking lathe... pics loaded just fine. Thanks for all the replies.... Well, I ordered the 8x14, QCTP (where is the mod for this?), 5" 3-jaw, chuck mounting plate, cobalt hss blanks, and the Eagle 5c chuck. X3, 7045, bandsaw, and 7pc. live center are all on order. I can't wait to make some chips.... OH what to do first???? Jack P.S. I want the 9x30 too :)| 872|865|2005-03-11 04:22:00|john labutski|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?| Now you need to order some lubricants like way oil, a couple of cans of wd40, and some cutting oil, also a tool grinder from HF partnumber 46727. The grinder works great on cobalt and makes quick work of sharpening and shaping those cobalt bits. If your new to machining just take your time with the lathe, keep the rpms down and just use crank feeds. Go slow at first until you get a feel for the lathe. I suggest using aluminum round stock of about 1" till you learn to sharpen your tools and properly set your tool bit height. Use very light feeds till you get this all down. If you are having a problem, just ask someone here in the group rather than just charging ahead. If you have prior machining experience, your just going to plain enjoy what you have purchased. The 8x14 just really is a bunch superior to the HF 9x20 and the mini-lathes. You will feel the difference in the lead screws when you crank the cross feed. Smoooooth. The dials on the leadscrew are a bit tight to turn but thats an easy tweak to get them to your liking. John Ocala Florida | 873|865|2005-03-11 04:27:35|Brian Tuttle|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|Just a question Jack, What is your reasoning behind purchasing both the x3 and the zay7045 when the larger of the two will do anything that the smaller will? curious, Brian | 874|865|2005-03-11 12:26:37|tauntdesigns|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Brian Tuttle" Hi Brian, I worded that wrong...... I should've said, Bob doesn't have any in stock. I haven't made up my mind on which mill to get yet.... Looks like I have a couple of months to think, research,... oh and ask ?'s about them... X3?... 7045? Jack| 875|865|2005-03-11 12:26:41|tauntdesigns|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" of wd40, and some cutting oil, also a tool grinder from HF partnumber 46727. The grinder works great on cobalt and makes quick work of sharpening and shaping those cobalt bits. If your new to machining just take your time with the lathe, keep the rpms down and just use crank feeds. Go slow at first until you get a feel for the lathe. I suggest using aluminum round stock of about 1" till you learn to sharpen your tools and properly set your tool bit height. Use very light feeds till you get this all down. If you are having a problem, just ask someone here in the group rather than just charging ahead. If you have prior machining experience, your just going to plain enjoy what you have purchased. The 8x14 just really is a bunch superior to the HF 9x20 and the mini-lathes. You will feel the difference in the lead screws when you crank the cross feed. Smoooooth. The dials on the leadscrew are a bit tight to turn but thats an easy tweak to get them to your liking. Hi John, Yeah, I've got to go to HF and get some stuff.... I'll check out that grinder... I need one or two. I have some exp. machining... mostly mill work (BP's thru 5-axis)... I've done some lathe work BUT, it's not my strong suit. The group is right about Bob being easy to do talk to, I could've talked with him for hours. Jack| 876|865|2005-03-11 18:51:37|Brian Tuttle|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|Thanks for the clarification, I was curious why someone would want to purchase redundant machinery. I thought maybe you planned on cnc for the x3. Brian | 877|877|2005-03-12 00:18:32|jkrampjr|Question about shipping time|How long does shipping normally take? I bought a lathe stand on March 1st and still have not received it. I sent an email but as yet have not received a reply. John| 878|865|2005-03-12 01:25:16|Alan Trest|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?|"He who Die's with the most toy's Wins" Always been my moto Alan T. zay7045 | 879|865|2005-03-12 01:59:26|Steve Schwing|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe? I just got my 8x14 too..>|Try some stuff and you'll figure out what you need. I ordered the QC toolpost with mine and it is highly recommended. I've never touched a lathe in my life, but have already made enough parts to pay for it...My first efforts here: http://images8.fotki.com/v131/photos/7/7305/1460485/DSC03442-vi.jpg These are MAF air intakes for Audi's. The 8x14 is a really nice piece of equipment. Take your time and learn the machine. If a Noob like me can turn out stuff like this, you'll get the hang of it!| 880|877|2005-03-12 02:17:29|john labutski|Re: Question about shipping time| You have to wait till the stuff clears customs. All the inspection stuff that the press is not reporting is really slowing stuff down. Small stuff gets thru easy, big stuff takes a while. I used to import diesel engines with a partner. It used to take 17 days from china to the port of oakland and 2 days to get thru customs. He still imports and its now 60 days from china and 15 days to get thru customs. Now because of fuel costs, he has to fight to get a trucker and get stuff hauled to his warehouse from the port at oakland california.. John | 881|865|2005-03-12 02:24:42|john labutski|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe?| You forgot to add "he who also has the biggest garage!".   I'll bet he has a three car minimum. John Ocala Florida | 882|877|2005-03-12 03:25:04|jkrampjr|Re: Question about shipping time|I assumed since it was listed on eBay as "buy it now" it would have been in stock. If it truly wasn't in stock it should have been stated as such and I would have bought elsewhere. John --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" stuff that the press is not reporting is really slowing stuff down. Small stuff gets thru easy, big stuff takes a while. I used to import diesel engines with a partner. It used to take 17 days from china to the port of oakland and 2 days to get thru customs. He still imports and its now 60 days from china and 15 days to get thru customs. Now because of fuel costs, he has to fight to get a trucker and get stuff hauled to his warehouse from the port at oakland california.. | 883|865|2005-03-12 03:25:30|tauntdesigns|Re: What items should I buy with my lathe? I just got my 8x14 too..>|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Schwing" it! Hi Steve, That's some nice looking work there... good finish. I wanted to get one of everything on Bob's site, but had to save some money for the mill when it comes in. Jack| 884|884|2005-03-12 15:36:56|jkb621|9x30?|I had someone tell me that the lathmasters have a 9x30 lathe. I am wishing to get into some gun work and was intriged by the lathe. They gave me a number but I didn't get a chance to call yet I was wondering if anyone had some info on the lathe. I'm about to buy a lathe and am tring to chooose which to get. I've been going to get a 7x12 or the Micro-mark 7x14(still haven't figured out if this one is worth the steep price jump) for some small projects and action work but if I could get one that I could do barrel work on at a good price I would be very Intrested. That is if i could talk my wife into the etra money? Any spec a help Thanks for any help| 885|884|2005-03-12 17:45:37|john labutski|Re: 9x30?| I have the 7x10 and have had the 9x20, I also have the 8x14 from lathemaster.   From what you describe as your needs, the 9x30 would be excellent for barrel work between centers. My bet is that it will be all the lathe you need. Trust me if you get a Lathemaster, you will not have buyers regret. Lathemasters have bigger and better leadscrews and superb fit and finish. I previously owned a 16x40 mori-seiki that was brand new when I got it. Though smaller, the 8x14 has the same feel and smoothness. I am sure that the 9x30 will have that same feel, but will have the extra bed length and rigidity. Just talk to Bob, he has always given me straight answers. John | 886|884|2005-03-12 20:19:40|tauntdesigns|Re: 9x30?|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "jkb621" They a is price the Bob said the 9x30 has the same specs as the 8x14 except for the extra inch in dia. and the extra 16 inches in length. (HP, spindle bore, lead screws, etc...) If you decide (or the wife decides) on the smaller lathe.... look at the 8x14 from Lathemaster. Look at the pics on this page here's the link. http://www.tedatum.com/thms/lathemaster.html One of the pics show a side by side view of a 7x12 Grizzly and a 8x14 Lathemaster. The pics on that page and the posts of this group that helped me make up my mind. Call Bob and talk with him......... Jack| 887|884|2005-03-13 06:05:19|Alan Trest|Re: 9x30?|I have the 9x30 and it is exactly like the 8x14 with the additional work envelope. Sweet machine.| 888|884|2005-03-13 17:02:20|john labutski|Re: 9x30?| Thanks for the info Alan. Just out of curiosity, what is the overall length of the 9x30, how much does it weigh, and what is the spindle ID? Sure sounds great, but I am jammed to the rafters, but the extra bed length would allow me to turn some longer stuff between centers instead of going to a friends machine shop all the time. I got a kick out of your sweet comment. Thats just how I feel about my 8x14. John | 889|884|2005-03-13 20:41:53|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: 9x30?|Hey Al, How about posting some pics of that 9x30 it sounds real nice. Thanks...Bob | 890|890|2005-03-14 12:14:20|Mitch Cundiff|Lathe list|Hello all, how do I get on the 8 x 14 Lathe list?| 891|890|2005-03-14 14:16:32|Green, James|Re: Lathe list| Call Bob at Lathemaster.com........   I believe he has them in stock...... James From: Mitch Cundiff [mailto:mcundiff1@...] Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 2:35 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Lathe list Hello all, how do I get on the 8 x 14 Lathe list? | 892|892|2005-03-15 03:40:18|Mitch Cundiff|Anyone wish to sell there 8 x 14 ?|Hello is there anyone who wishes to sell there 8 x 14 so they can get a 9 x 30 ? I live in the Seattle area let me know Mitch ..................| 894|894|2005-03-15 12:22:29|Jack|Anyone CNC thier 8x14|Hi all, Has anyone converted their 8x14 yet? What size steppers and type of control used. Thanks, Jack| 896|896|2005-03-15 14:24:30|Green, James|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems| Take a dial indicator that is attached to the cross slide via a magnectic base and see if the ram is square / parallel to the bed. Take measurements with the indicator point on the top and the side of the tail stock ram. If you have the proper attachements you could also run this test with a dial test indicator installed in the three jaw chuck....... James From: Chuck [mailto:rchelicopter@...] Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 11:29 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] new 8x14 owner with a few problems Hi all, Well I finally got my new 8x14 lathe. It really is a grate machine for the money. I have had some problems, but Bob it helping me with them. He is replacing all the defective parts and he is replacing my first bit that I ruined for free. You guys were right when you posted how nice he is to deal with. I wanted to share my problems and I have a question about the tail stock. After all the cleaning I installed the belts. While aligning the motor so the belt would ride on the center of the pulley I heard a loud pop followed by the smell of burning plastic. I checked the wiring, switches and motor. It seems I have a defective motor that blow up the running capacitor, the top one. Bob has seen this before and is sending me a new motor. Now the second problem is a little confusing. The tail stock has a top and bottom piece and it can be adjusted side to side with the bolts. I did adjust it a small amount. As I continued to look the machine over I noticed that the bottom of the tail stock casting was not parallel to the lathe bed. I sent a picture to bob and he is sending me a replacement bottom half of the tail stock. It seems the V grove on the bottom was not cut straight. When you look down at the tail stock from the front of the machine <--| there is more bed showing on the left then there is at the right. The tail stock base is not parallel to the bed. I was concerned that if I drilled a hole in something it would have been at an angle. If you spin a part and insert the stationary drill bit at an angle, the rear hole would be larger. Conversely, If I simply drilled a hole off axis in a stationary part the hole at the rear would just be off center. OK, I hope that makes it clear. Bob is sending me a new base for the tail stock. But now the big question. Just because the base is not parallel to the bed does that mean that the top is not parallel too! If the top is parallel, is the ram parallel? If these parts are assembled on a jig and then the ram and handle are installed then they may have compensated for the base being crocked? I measured the area around the front of the tail stock ram and one side of the casting is thicker than the other. I need to verify that the Ram is parallel to the bed. The base could just have extra casting on one side, it could look crocked as hell and still the ram could be perfectly parallel because is was installed last. If you got this far and you understand what I'm trying to explain I would appreciate your input. I plan to call Bob again but I would like to have more answers then questions. Chuck K | 897|896|2005-03-15 15:09:01|mineralman55|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck" That's an interesting chip shield on the 8x14. Was that an option? Larry| 898|894|2005-03-15 17:50:40|john labutski|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14| Before I got hooked on cnc, I made a new tailstock locking block for a second leadscrew I was going to put under the apron. I attached a nut setup to the saddle and was able to drive the saddle back and forth with a small gearmotor. This lead screw was between the ways on the x axis and just above the reinforcing ribs on the bed. I had ordered an 8x14 leadscrew from lathemaster for this project. I think that 276 inch ounce steppers and a bipolar or unipolar drive would be sufficient to drive both the cross feed and the saddle provided you geared it 2 or 3 to 1 and used a 5/8ths ball screw on each axis. Even though this would not give you super rapids, the 5 to 700 inch ounces is plenty of torque. On my current cnc stuff I use turbocnc which is quite flexible and allows you threading capabilities. Whats cool about turbo cnc is that you just use the arrow keys for right or left on the x axis or up and down arrows for cross feed. The saddle on the 8x14 allows you to use preloaded ball nuts for super accuracy on the x axis. I have not pulled the 8x14 cross feed apart because I am currently using the lathe for other projects. I do think from a quick look, that I can use 5/8ths ball screws for the cross feed. Once I finish my mini-mill z axis cnc, my enco xy table cnc, and my little wire feed edm machine I will go after the 8x14 next. I have been using the mini-mill cnc in the 2d mode. Sure wish I had the x3 for cnc'ing. The costs would have been about the same as that for the mini-mill, but the end result would be ten times the machine. I currently have the xylotex and hobbycnc controllers. The hobbycnc is a kit and  the xylotex is a plug and play. Its about 150 dollars per axis for all materials to cnc it. I ordered computers from 123compute.com for 119.00 each to run each of the projects. They are used refurbs, but cheap enough to get started and run plenty fast with turbocnc. I figure it will be the middle of April before I start on the 8x14. Hope this enough info. John Ocala Florida | 899|894|2005-03-15 18:08:24|john labutski|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14| I just reviewed my email and in the second sentence I should have said saddle instead of apron. John Ocala Florida | 900|894|2005-03-15 22:48:19|Jack|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14|Hi John, Thanks for the reply, I've looked at Zylotex, Maxnc, and FET-3 controlers. I've also been looking for 250-300 oz/in steppers. I'm sure I can do the mechnecal part of the conversion.... the electronic part is giving me a headache. I'd like to buy a turnkey system on the electronic part.. Thanks, Jack| 901|894|2005-03-15 23:06:45|john labutski|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14| Before you buy motors or a controller make sure the two match. In other words you need a bipolar controller for bipolar motors. You will need a unipolar driver if you buy unipolar motors. This may be an over simplification ( you can get unipolar motors to work with a bipolar driver but there are some compromises). John ome----- Original Message ----- | 902|902|2005-03-16 00:08:03|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Fwd: Free Shipping code|--- In southbendlathe@yahoogroups.com, "Scott S. Logan" From the email box... Dear Metalworking Professional, This month, when you order $50 or more in merchandise from Enco, you'll qualify for Free UPS Shipping*. Just apply promo code NRFUP35 at check out when you order online at use-enco.com. When ordering by phone at 800-USE-ENCO, give promo code NRFUP35 to your friendly sales associate as you complete your order. * "Free Shipping" means standard ground shipment to a location within the continental U.S. only. Lift gate and other non-standard services will incur an additional charge; call for details. And BTW, that same code is good at http://store.lathe.com too! -- Scott S. Logan, Vice President Tel +1 (815) 943-9500 Logan Actuator Co. Fax +1 (815) 943-6755 550 Chippewa Rd Email ssl@l... Harvard IL 60033-2372 Web http://www.lathe.com USA --- End forwarded message ---| 903|902|2005-03-16 01:36:44|George Dunham|Re: Free Shipping code|Hi All For those that belong to the 7x10minilathe group, I am maintaining the enco code each month in the database section. Feel free to add other promo codes as well. -- Regards George Dunham About Time Clock Shop 719 Thompson Blvd Union, SC 29379-7406 (864)429-4156 BOB & CINDY WRIGHT wrote: | 905|905|2005-03-16 12:33:50|Michael J. Csele|Utterly Confused!!!|Utterly confused! I will try to keep this short (not easy for me)..... This all started when the bearings went out on my 6 x 20 Atlas (also sold as Craftsman) lathe. After putting $90 worth of bearings into the unit, I examined it closely. Although it is still in good shape, it is now starting to show its age (25 years old). The bed has about .0007 wear in it, the brass nuts will have to replaced one day, the gears have a little play in the centers. All the parts are still available from Clausing (even a new bed at $300). I was surprised to see the exact same unit (with less accessories) sold on ebay for $760 (never sold anything on e-bay but there is always a first time). Then I wandered into Harbor Freight. There sat a new 9 x 20 for $699 (on sale that week). And so I started thinking ... 25 year old solid lathe build in USA or new import. So I found the 9 x 20 yahoo group. It seems you must rebuild the 9 x 20 before you can even use it. That group did lead me to this group. I was looking at the 9 x 20 but I could truly use the extra length of a 8 x 14. After looking at the posts though it seems there is a big difference between the 9 x 20 and the 8 x 14! My lathe has a tumbler reverse (which I use a lot). Can one be fitted to the 9 x 30 (8 x 14)? I have back gearing on my lathe. Can the 9 x 30 be modified to have back gearing? Is the 9 x 30 (8 x 14) as good as the 9 x 20 Lathemast or Harbor Frieght (I would be willing to sacrifice the length if the 9 x 20 was a lot better than the 9 x 30)? I could always spend about $500 and put my lathe back together like brand new but Â…. Like I said, Utterly Confused! Does anyone have any advice on the 9 x 30 vs. the 9 x 20? How would either of these compare against what I have now? Thanks Â….. Mike| 907|905|2005-03-16 17:43:19|Green, James|Re: Utterly Confused!!!| I have mulled over the idea of installing tumble reverse on my 8 x 14 but haven't past the mental picture stage. Installing a tumble reverse with a lever that you can push or pull to engage would be a little tougher. You can't run a lever out the front of the lathe since the headstock gears and mounting brackets are in the way.   Anybody else out there have thoughts on this subject... James From: Michael J. Csele [mailto:mcsele_2000@...] Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 11:40 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Utterly Confused!!! Utterly confused! I will try to keep this short (not easy for me)..... This all started when the bearings went out on my 6 x 20 Atlas (also sold as Craftsman) lathe. After putting $90 worth of bearings into the unit, I examined it closely. Although it is still in good shape, it is now starting to show its age (25 years old). The bed has about .0007 wear in it, the brass nuts will have to replaced one day, the gears have a little play in the centers. All the parts are still available from Clausing (even a new bed at $300). I was surprised to see the exact same unit (with less accessories) sold on ebay for $760 (never sold anything on e-bay but there is always a first time). Then I wandered into Harbor Freight. There sat a new 9 x 20 for $699 (on sale that week). And so I started thinking ... 25 year old solid lathe build in USA or new import. So I found the 9 x 20 yahoo group. It seems you must rebuild the 9 x 20 before you can even use it. That group did lead me to this group. I was looking at the 9 x 20 but I could truly use the extra length of a 8 x 14. After looking at the posts though it seems there is a big difference between the 9 x 20 and the 8 x 14! My lathe has a tumbler reverse (which I use a lot). Can one be fitted to the 9 x 30 (8 x 14)? I have back gearing on my lathe. Can the 9 x 30 be modified to have back gearing? Is the 9 x 30 (8 x 14) as good as the 9 x 20 Lathemast or Harbor Frieght (I would be willing to sacrifice the length if the 9 x 20 was a lot better than the 9 x 30)? I could always spend about $500 and put my lathe back together like brand new but …. Like I said, Utterly Confused! Does anyone have any advice on the 9 x 30 vs. the 9 x 20? How would either of these compare against what I have now? Thanks ….. Mike | 908|905|2005-03-16 20:12:37|gmdagena2000|Re: Utterly Confused!!!|Look for tumbler reverse plans for the HF 9x20 lathe and you should be able to adapt those to your 8x14. The drive design is very similar, so it shouldn't be to hard to do. Heres link to one such plan. http://bedair.org/Tumble/Tumble1.html -Gabe --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" reverse the else out (also in (even old 9 a have like 9 what <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129l6v2q3/M=298184.6018725.7038619.30011 76/ D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1111055631/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/* htt M=298184.6018725.7038619.3001176/D=group subject=Unsubscribe | 909|905|2005-03-16 20:51:40|gmdagena2000|Re: Utterly Confused!!!|If the drive setup is similar to the 9x20 you can take a planetary gear setup out an old automatic transmission, anneal it, and make a new spindle pulley with that setup inside it. There is a link in the 9x20 group for that. That will effectively reduce your low speed by a third. Since you are a member of the 9x20 group, you have probably seen some posts from users stating that they used the machines as they came for a while until making mods. I used my 9x20 without mods for 8 mos without mods and could do what I needed. I only modded mine because I was under impression that I HAD to do it. I'm happy I did because when I fit a AXA TP to it, I had do what 8x14 users do to fit the TP to the lathe. The 9x20, dispite common belief, does not need a rebuild to be a decent lathe, BUT it does need a through inspection as the fit, cleaning, and amount of lubrication often leave soemthing to be desired. People in this group are loyal to their lathemaster machines. Honestly, the 8x14, 9x20 and 9x30 are all belt drive,bench mount, hobby lathes that all differ in some ways. I regard them as nearly equal in that, they all need some amount disassembly to make sure all places needing lubrication have suffient oil/grease, no casting sand is stuck in the castings... etc. See the post recently on this group where the tailstock of the 8x14 sits non-parallel with the bed ways? This is ALL low cost import machinery, and should be treated as such. None of these hobby lathes are exempt from a requisite thorough inspection. You aren't buying a Hendey, Clausing or SB where duds were usually caught in the final factory inspection. Every Asian machine I've had needed treaking and adjustment, regardless of type, function served, or design, and this goes for bandsaws, lathes, sanders..etc. The lathemaster lathes need less because they have fewer "add-ons" (power apron, Gear box, variable speed..etc) than other lathes of this class, but that deosn't mean they don't need "sweat equity". Every piece of asian equipment marketed towards hobbyists should be regarded as assembled kits. If this doesn't sound like something you want to do, rebuild your Atlas 6" and you will be served quite well. -Gabe --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Michael J. Csele" in (even old 9 a have like 9 what | 910|905|2005-03-16 22:11:01|john labutski|Re: Utterly Confused!!!| Hello Gabe, I have to disagree with you a bit. First is the my 8x14 was ready to go out of the box. The 9x20 I sold after getting the 8x14 was not. Even after adding the 4 bolt plate I was not happy with the finish and the undersized x axis lead screw. My on 9x20 was 9/16ths the lathemaster 8x14 is 3/4 of an inch. My problem with the 9x20 machines (all of them) is that the saddles are too narrow on all of them and the tool post is almost standing on stilts. With respect to the tool post. I use the series 100 tool post and removed about .140 from the bottom of each tool holder. This works great and allows me to use 1/2 lathe bits along with the knurling tool provided. I am one of those guys that does not believe in milling down the compound to fit the tool post. I turn a lot of steel, and castiron so rigidity is my most important requirement. With respect to the tailstock problem you mentioned, things happen. A single chip in a fixture at the factory will cause this problem. And unless some one is looking very closely at final assembly it will skate thru. Other than Grizzly try and get a replacement part. Its not easy believe me.   I cooked my motor on the lathemaster a week after I got it. A phone call to Bob and a new one was on my door step 2 days after the day I called. No argument, just a pleasant phone call. Last year I got a tool grinder from HF for $149.00. The only thing that was bad was one grinding wheel mounting plate. HF wanted to ship me another one. I refused because of the balance on the one I had was superb, zero vibration an runout and a barely audible hum. I fought for a month until I got a new mounting plate. I could see the small burr on this plate that caused misalignment at the factory during final boring. Finally with respect to repair of the atlas 6. I've been there and done that. The 8x14 is 20 times the lathe. In fact if that small a lathe is acceptable probably a 7x 10 on sale would be a better setup. I have a small group of guys get together here at the house. I probably have 1,000 hours on the 8x14 between everyone using it and it is still purring along quite nicely. We regularly turn steel up to 2 inches, cast iron up to 3, and aluminum up to 3. I am not saying everyone should make this a practice on the 8x14, but its nice to be able to do it. Yes they do need a bit of cleaning, but the 8x14 was by far the cleanest chinese machine I have ever gotten. Just a light kerosene wipedown and I have been using it ever since. The gear box is nice on the HF and Grizzly 9x20's, but I use taps and dies so I don't miss it. The point I am making is that if you don't own a 8x14 you are missing a sweet machine. If you want a 9x20 get one. Nearly all of us who have the 8x14 love it. I really don't give one hoot about loyalty. My prime concern is does the machine do what I want with precision. If I am boring a hole and I move the cross feed in .0005 I want it to move .0005 or .0004 or .0006 and not .0008 or .0003. I agree about sweat equity such as VFD or power cross feed. I disagree that it should be necessary to disassemble a lathe completely to achieve that end. I know that Ballendo, Cletus and Bedair do nice work on their 9x20's. In my case I found the 8x14 just plain "Sweet" and prefer it. Its a matter of personal choice. By the way James Green is doing a treadmill mod for the 8x14. He is pretty close to done. Only work and school is getting in his way. John Ocala Florida | 911|905|2005-03-16 23:03:28|rburkheimer|Re: Utterly Confused!!!|Mike I know the delimna! That Atlas 618 is a popular collectible with plenty of people out there wanting them for various reasons. However, most of the new stuff out of China is at least it's equal in strength, rigidity, and accuracy. If you can get $700+ for that Atlas, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Note that your location makes a big diff - lathes go for a lot less on the coasts than in the heartland. Take that and a few hundred extra and buy a serious machine. As for what to buy, you might also take a look at the next step up, which is a 10x24 M2 lathe from Seig. Grizzly sells it as a G0516. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SiegM2andGrizzlyG0516 Lathemaster should be able to get one for you. --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Michael J. Csele" | 912|884|2005-03-16 23:03:33|rburkheimer|Re: 9x30?|I don't see it on their website. | 913|884|2005-03-17 05:34:43|gmdagena2000|Re: 9x30?|You have to contact Bob directly. For barrel work, I'd look at the 12X. You want to be able to pass a barrel through the HS spindle for chambering work. If the 9x30 has #3MT or #4MT spindle, the spindle bore won't be enough for most rifles. Some gunsmiths have even said that the 1.375" spindle bore on the 12x lathes leaves something to be desired for certain jobs. If you make pistols, or small rifles you can get away with a lathe with a #3 or 4MT spindle taper, for rifles you want #5 MT HS spindle taper. A SB heavy 10 (large hole spindle)is a classic gunsmith's lathe. -Gabe | 915|915|2005-03-17 12:22:45|Michael J. Csele|Missing Threads?|First off, thanks for all the information! I think the 9 x 30 from Lathemaster will be the way to go. Sounds like a good solid machine. Bob seems very honest and helpful. One last concern I have is with the threads it will cut (same as the 8 x 14). There is no 12, 13 (1/2 x 13), 28, and 36. As well no .9 (would have been 28 1/4 tpi... I,m thinking you can use .7 for 36 ... 36 1/4 and 2 for 13 .. 12 3/4). Any thoughts on this? Has anyone tried any gear combinations to get the missing threads? Can other gears (from say SDP) be purchased that would give the missing threads? Thanks again for all the advice! Mike| 916|916|2005-03-17 19:13:41|John Labutski|Lathemaster service.|Well Chuck thanks for your honesty. I am glad you didn't really have a problem. Some guys would leave a posting and ignore pertinent facts and kind of fade into the sunset. Your case proves what all of us here feel. That is the fact that Lathemaster and Bob Bertand are second to none in service and they bend over backwards to make customer happy. I have one important suggestion for you. That is keep the original tailstock as delivered to you. Since its dead on leave it alone. Since you know its only a minor cosmetic problem on the casting,leave it be. Send the other one back. Eventually your going to chip some paint on it and you can file it off a it and repaint it. I have been in the hobby for 40 years and feel that if something is really broke don't fix it. All of the surfaces on the tailstock are really pretty close fit and dimensioned to the bed. "Nuff said" Have fun, your going to flat love the 8x14. John Ocala Florida | 917|916|2005-03-18 04:45:17|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: Lathemaster service.|Chuck, You can remove the posts you don't want that you posted. Just go back to the post and on the bottom line it say's "delete" just click and then click "yes" and its gone...Bob wrote I wish I could remove all | 918|918|2005-03-18 17:32:37|Art Lundwall|One more thing I need, thanks to the wife|I recently bought an X3, a 9x30, and a whole bunch of accessories. Last night, I was in the garage facing off a piece of aluminum on the X3, and the wife comes in. I can tell she wants to ask something, and I'm pretty sure I knew what it was. But, I had just begun making the cut, and didn't want to stop. So, I told her to hang on for a second until I got done with this pass. So she waited. And waited. for about 30-45 seconds while I fed the piece along. So, then I turned off the mill and asked her what she wanted. "I forgot now" she said, "do you have to do that every time? You should see if they have something that will turn that handwheel for you!" Gee, honey... I'll see what I can do! Anything for you, dear! :-)| 919|918|2005-03-18 17:44:32|john labutski|Re: One more thing I need, thanks to the wife| I really got a kick out of your story.   I am sure everyone on the group will help you make up your list. Here is my contribution: A power table feed along with dro's. This way you can set up the stops for the table feed and show her that the table knows when to stop within a thousandth of an inch. Next get a a couple of ballscrews and some ball nuts and cnc the 9x30.. Tell her this way you can spend more time with her because the computer is doing all the work. Hope this helps, John Ocala Florida | 920|896|2005-03-18 21:47:59|kmcmachineworks|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems|I just got My 8x14 about two weeks ago and mine came with the guard as well. The guard is setup that the machine will not lock into the on position unless that guard is down. I also find that it gets in the way to much. Not only in say filing the ends of your work but visualy as well with the only view is through that little window in the front KMc --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" wrote: machine | 921|918|2005-03-19 03:23:25|Art Lundwall|Re: One more thing I need, thanks to the wife|Well, I already have a Shumatech DRO, in fact I was machining some parts for mounting the scales. AND, the bed of the mill is already setup for a bolt-on power feed from Sieg. I never bought it because I had pretty much spent my budget already. But, now, since it's such a nuisance to my wife, I guess I'll have to break down and get one. For her, you see.... Art | 922|922|2005-03-19 07:32:55|Chuck|Fixed my first part last night : )|Hi all, I fixed my first part last night and it turned out great. I wanted to replace an open bearing in a clutch bell with a sealed bearing to keep clutch dust out of the bearing. But nobody makes a sealed flanged bearing that size. So I opened the hole up to 11mm. It is a perfect fit. It could have been a tighter fit but a little lock tight will hold it. I can't wait to make my first part. Chuck K| 923|896|2005-03-19 08:43:27|Jack|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems|Hi All, I just got my 8x14 tonight (Friday) 9:30 p.m. and it has the chip guard also.... "If it has to be down to run", then I know what my first project will be...( removing that feature ) Jack P.S. thanks again to everybody in this group for having this group.. reading the posts here kept me from making a big mistake... like buying a Grizzly.... And Yes, the 8x14 is a SWEET machine. --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "kmcmachineworks" | 924|896|2005-03-19 17:26:41|john labutski|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems| I am sure the guard was added because some guys were stupid enough to use the lathe without safety glasses and got slapped across the face with a big chunk of swarf. Many of these requirements come in because of the iso standards. I am going to add one to my 8x14 because when I turn brass at high rpms, the little pieces of swarf end up on top my head. There are many other cases where the guard is beneficial. Just use common sense when operating. Many years ago, they taught people how to use a file on a lathe so people would not impale a 12 inch bastard file in their chest because the chuck jaw caught the end of the file. Even using a strip of abrasive will pull off your thumb nail if it starts a full wrap on the work piece if you don't hold it properly. I think it pays for new owners to think about safety a bit as they start to use their equipment. I worked second shift in the machine shop of a steel mill when I was in college. I have seen it all. Well this is the end of my paternal lecture. And Jack glad you agree about the sweet comment for the 8x14. Every time I fire up mine, I thing of Jackie Gleason and the honeymooners. You young guys don't know what I am talking about!! John Ocala Florida | 925|925|2005-03-19 23:29:32|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|new 8x14 owners|Congrats to all the new 8x14 owners. I am glad i started this group also as the Lathemaster's are far better than the Grizzly's 7x whatever. Look under my aametalmaster profile for some projects if you need anything to make...Bob| 926|896|2005-03-20 08:54:53|kmcmachineworks|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems|I have already disabled it by removing the switch box back, un-screwing the lever switch and electrical taping the lever down and covering the contacts at the same time. KMc | 927|927|2005-03-20 20:10:33|mineralman55|3/4 Inch Shank in X3|Anyone have direct experience using 3/4 inch or larger shanked endmills and cutters in the X3? I'm thinking of getting several 3/4 inch shanked cutters for some specialty work, and wondered if experience showed the X3 to be rigid enough for something that big. If you go with either an end mill holder or even a collet in 3/4 inch size, there are some many more cutter options available than sticking with an R8 shanked cutter. I'm working in 6061 and can keep the depth of cut to < 0.040". Larry| 928|927|2005-03-21 01:56:55|nowdkyle|Re: 3/4 Inch Shank in X3|That should work fine. The key is how hard you push it, depth of cut, feed rate, etc. Keep all axis locks on but the one for the direction of cut. I have used a 1" end mill in a holder on mine with good results. Dick K. --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "mineralman55" 3/4 big. | 929|929|2005-03-21 02:29:53|steell219|LatheMaster 9x20 discontinued.|I just received an e-mail from Bob Bertrand at LatheMaster. Quote: "Hi Steve, The BV20 will not be sold anymore. We are changing to a 9x30 model priced at $1100. Let me know if you are interested in one, I have them in stock." Looks like I'm a day late and a dollar short :( Steve| 930|929|2005-03-21 02:40:05|Jack|Re: LatheMaster 9x20 discontinued.|Hi, The 9x30 is said to be a big brother (same machine except for the extra inch in dia. and 16 inches longer) to the 8x14 and with the praise everybody gives the 8x14... being a day late could be a good thing. :) Jack --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "steell219" | 931|931|2005-03-21 03:26:33|Michael J. Csele|Threading help please!|One last concern I have is with the threads it will cut (same as the 8 x 14). There is no 12, 13 (1/2 x 13), 28, and 36. As well no .9! .9 mm would have been 28 1/4 tpi... I,m thinking you can use .7 for 36 ... 36 1/4 and 2 for 13 .. 12 3/4. Any thoughts on this? Has anyone tried any gear combinations to get the missing threads? Can other gears (from say SDP) be purchased that would give the missing threads? Want to make sure I can get all the correct thread cutting out of the machine. Mike| 932|932|2005-03-21 03:42:54|Michael J. Csele|Need picture of threading chart please|Can someone please post a picture of the threading chart (or scan the chart out of their manual). I have been looking through my SDP (Stock Drive Products) book. I want to see if I can buy a few gears and get 12, 13, 28 adn 36 TPI (and also .9mm pitch) out of the lathe. Also, does anyone have any information on the gears (pressure angle, ID, width, ....)? Thanks .... Mike| 933|933|2005-03-21 04:45:32|Chuck|a few questions about collet threds|Hi all, I need to buy some metric and SAE collets. I have done a little research and it looks like most SAE collets have 3/8"-16 internal threads and the metric collets have 1.041-24 internal threads. Will I need two draw bars? The metric collets are only available in 5c and the SAE collets are MT3. Q#1 I like the 15 piece lathemaster collet set, anybody know the internal thread? Q#2 LMS has a nice set of MT3 SAE collets with 3/8"-16 thread, will these work? Q#3 The metric collets I need from durham have 1.041-24 thread. Will I need a second draw bar? http://www.dunhamtool.com/5c_collet.html Q#4 Anybody know where I can get metric collets with the 3/8" -16 internal threads. Q#5 Do the lathe chucks like the eagle 5c work with both treads? Q#6 Will both the metric 5C and SAE MT3 collets fit into the spindle or do I need an adaptor? Q#7 Are the 5C collets the most common? Q#8 Some collets have external threads should I try to get all my collets with them? Q#9 Can I get all thread 1.041-24 thread or can I use a draw bar from another machine? Q#10 If I go the edge of the universe and I take another step, where will I be? Collet chucks are a little pricey for my limited budget so would I like to use a draw bar for now. I know this is a lot of questions but I am very confused when it comes to collets. If you can only answer some of these questions it would be a big help. P.S As to the problems I had, the new motor sounds and runs great. I modified the pix of the tail stock to show it was only cosmetic. Thanks again for your help. A very tired and confused Chuck K| 934|934|2005-03-21 05:25:26|robert wright|Fwd: Re: a few questions about collet threds|Attachments : Note: forwarded message attached. Bob Wright Metal Master Fab. Salem, Oh 44460 Birthplace of the "Silver & Deming Drill" all the rest are just copy's. www.tracksoverhead.com http://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/ __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Get it on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo| 935|932|2005-03-21 14:22:27|Green, James|Re: Need picture of threading chart please| The threading chart is on the door of the lathe....... Unless you don't have your 8 x 14 yet???? Finding gears that will fit the jack shafts will be tough, at least it was for me. Make sure you obtained 1 mm pitch gears and you'll probably have to bore out the gear to proper diameter and broach the key way. I purchased two 25 tooth gears and had this process done on a wire EDM machine...... Pressure angle will be 20 degrees and I forgot the width of the gear(s).   James From: Michael J. Csele [mailto:mcsele_2000@...] Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 8:43 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Need picture of threading chart please Can someone please post a picture of the threading chart (or scan the chart out of their manual). I have been looking through my SDP (Stock Drive Products) book. I want to see if I can buy a few gears and get 12, 13, 28 adn 36 TPI (and also .9mm pitch) out of the lathe. Also, does anyone have any information on the gears (pressure angle, ID, width, ....)? Thanks .... Mike | 936|918|2005-03-21 14:28:01|Green, James|Re: One more thing I need, thanks to the wife| Art, you're the man!!!!! James From: Art Lundwall [mailto:aclundwall@...] Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 8:23 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Re: One more thing I need, thanks to the wife Well, I already have a Shumatech DRO, in fact I was machining some parts for mounting the scales. AND, the bed of the mill is already setup for a bolt-on power feed from Sieg. I never bought it because I had pretty much spent my budget already. But, now, since it's such a nuisance to my wife, I guess I'll have to break down and get one. For her, you see.... Art --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "john labutski" group will help you make up your list. contribution: way you can set up the stops for the table feed and show her that the table knows when to stop within a thousandth of an inch. a a couple of ballscrews and some ball nuts and cnc the 9x30.. Tell her this way you can spend more time with her because the computer is doing all the work. Florida From: Art Lundwall Subject: [lathemaster] One more thing I need, thanks to the wife whole bunch of accessories. facing off a piece of aluminum on the in. I can tell she wants to ask something, and pretty sure I knew what it was. But, I had just begun making the hang on for a second So she waited. And waited. for seconds while I fed the piece along. then I turned off the mill and asked her what she wanted. "I time? You should turn that handwheel for you!" see what I can do! Anything for you, dear! :-) Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Links group on the web, go to: href="http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/"| 937|896|2005-03-21 14:34:08|Green, James|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems| Who is Jackie Gleason????? :) James I would love to have one of chip shields on my lathe.... Hopefully Bob stocks them..... From: john labutski [mailto:kd6wd@...] Sent: Saturday, March 19, 2005 10:28 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [lathemaster] Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems I am sure the guard was added because some guys were stupid enough to use the lathe without safety glasses and got slapped across the face with a big chunk of swarf. Many of these requirements come in because of the iso standards. I am going to add one to my 8x14 because when I turn brass at high rpms, the little pieces of swarf end up on top my head. There are many other cases where the guard is beneficial. Just use common sense when operating. Many years ago, they taught people how to use a file on a lathe so people would not impale a 12 inch bastard file in their chest because the chuck jaw caught the end of the file. Even using a strip of abrasive will pull off your thumb nail if it starts a full wrap on the work piece if you don't hold it properly. I think it pays for new owners to think about safety a bit as they start to use their equipment. I worked second shift in the machine shop of a steel mill when I was in college. I have seen it all. Well this is the end of my paternal lecture. And Jack glad you agree about the sweet comment for the 8x14. Every time I fire up mine, I thing of Jackie Gleason and the honeymooners. You young guys don't know what I am talking about!! John Ocala Florida | 938|896|2005-03-21 14:58:37|john labutski|Re: new 8x14 owner with a few problems| He was a comedian on tv. One of his favorite sayings was "How sweeeeeeet it is." You guys in the younger generation missed some good stuff. John | 939|939|2005-03-21 15:03:45|Green, James|X3 and stupid question| Received my X3 last Friday evening and started the disassembly process early Saturday morning with a cup of coffee and a fist full of tools. All major assemblies came apart with no troubles and safely carried into my basement within a few short hours. Didn't spend a lot of time in this area but I am having troubles getting the table seperated from Y axis. I expected to crank over the table and see a ring clip on the left hand side???? Nope, just a plug and the lead screw being supported by this plug... Care to give me a clue or two on how to remove the table???? The pin inside the quill is also too long on my X3. No problems with my Lyndex collets but my China made collets won't fit. Either replace the China made collets or shorten the pin. James | 940|939|2005-03-21 15:36:59|john labutski|Re: X3 and stupid question| There is a lead screw block attached to the base, I am not sure, but I think there are two bolts from the base bottom that hold it down. This block keeps the table from sliding off.   From Dan Kautz pictures on his webb site, it looks like he fully removed the x axis and vertical column to do all this. Take a stone or diamond lap to clean up the chinese collets. Also chamfer the slot end where the pin enters the collet. You only have to remove a thou at the most. Also feel for a burr at the end of the collet . These are first turned, hardened, and then ground. A burr left from turning can also cause this problem. I only have two american collets, and the rest are chinese. The chinese are actually pretty good if you dress up the slot. I used a sharpening stone on mine. John | 941|932|2005-03-21 16:36:07|Michael J. Csele|Re: Need picture of threading chart please|No, I don't have a lathemaster lathe yet. I want to get the 10 x 30 to replace my Atlas 6 x 20. I do a lot of thread cutting on my present unit. This is why I want to find out if I can cut "all" threads on the lathemaster lathe. I was told it is missing a few (12, 13, ...). I want to see if I can buy a few gears and make up the threads they missed. Why did you buy your gears? Where did you get them? Can you send me a copy of the threading chart? Thanks ... Mike --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" don't it probably way. I width angle, <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=12933nqmd/M=298184.6191685.7192823.300117 6/ D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1111455775/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*h tt M=298184.6191685.7192823.3001176/D=group subject=Unsubscribe | 942|932|2005-03-21 16:53:02|Green, James|Re: Need picture of threading chart please| I purchased my gears from https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ The normal stock drive products outfit...... I needed these gears to slow down the feed rate......... No problem on sending you the threading chart tomorrow morning. But might be a problem determining the right gears to obtain 13 TPI. On the 8 x 14 there are a total of 6 different gears to change so you can achieve all the different threads listed on the chart. The lathe also supports metric threading but you must leave the half nuts engage once you start threading....... James From: Michael J. Csele [mailto:mcsele_2000@...] Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 9:34 AM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Re: Need picture of threading chart please No, I don't have a lathemaster lathe yet. I want to get the 10 x 30 to replace my Atlas 6 x 20. I do a lot of thread cutting on my present unit. This is why I want to find out if I can cut "all" threads on the lathemaster lathe. I was told it is missing a few (12, 13, ...). I want to see if I can buy a few gears and make up the threads they missed. Why did you buy your gears? Where did you get them? Can you send me a copy of the threading chart? Thanks ... Mike --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" href="http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?" *      Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of href="http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/" . | 943|932|2005-03-21 16:59:07|Michael J. Csele|Re: Need picture of threading chart please|Whenever you can send the chart would be great! Exactly where I was looking for the gears (looked through the SDP cat. last night). Like I said, just wanted to see if I could buy a few more gears and make up the "missing" threads. Thanks ... Mike --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" stock feed On the also once 30 me least EDM I TPI <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=12933nqmd/M=298184.6191685.7192823.300117 D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1111455775/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*h <http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129o3vjjs/M=298184.6191685.7192823.300117 6/ D=groups/S=1707239243:HM/EXP=1111502168/A=2593423/R=0/SIG=11el9gslf/*h tt M=298184.6191685.7192823.3001176/D=group subject=Unsubscribe | 944|932|2005-03-22 02:40:27|kmcmachineworks|Re: Need picture of threading chart please|in the photo section in the KMc Folder I placed A photo of the threading chart that is on the front of the 8x14. Click on the picture untill it gets to its largest size then right click on that larger photo and then click on save picture to save it to your computer and then use a viewer and zoom in to see the numbers more clearly. KMc --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Michael J. Csele" | 945|939|2005-03-22 02:50:11|Art Lundwall|Re: X3 and stupid question|The pin on my X3 was more than a few thou too high... more like .015 or .020... for the collets I had. I didn't want to stick a dremel in there and grind it, because I was afraid of putting nicks and scratches all over the inside of the spindle taper. Turns out, the pin just needs to be pushed in a little deeper. Here's how I did it.. Get a deep well socket that just fits into the spindle past the pin. Then, find a long metal rod that will go through the center of the socket. Extend one end of the rod up through the top of the spindle, and hold the other end with the socket inside the spindle, against the pin. Use a hammer to tap the rod/socket against the pin, and it will go further into it's hole. It doesn't take much. The socket, since it's smooth and cylindrical, won't cause any damage to the inside of the spindle taper. I took my spindle off to do this, and it's pretty easy to do. But, you could probably do it with the spindle still on the mill with the head all the way up. Hope that makes sense. Art --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" | 946|939|2005-03-22 03:09:40|modpodd|Re: X3 and stupid question|You are correct, there is a ring clip and a small washer that stops the Y axis from coming out of the brass block mounted to the base. To remove the ring clip you will need a pair of pliers meant for removing external clips which means the jaws open as you close the handles. Once you have the clip off it is a simple matter to remove the Y axis screw and compound assembly from the base. If you don't mind destroying the clip, a flat bladed screw driver will also do the job. If you look on in the parts diagram that came with the mill, the parts are called out as: part 112 external ring clip part 151 washer part 153 block Once you get the clip off there is no real reason to put it back on unless you think you might machine past the limit of the screw without it. The backwards way of removing the compound assembly is to tip the mill on its side and unscrew from the bottom the two bolts that hold the block in place. | 947|947|2005-03-22 14:21:12|Green, James|X table and ball screw| I got the Y table / hardware off without any troubles last Saturday morning but the X table doesn't have a external ring clip. I was hoping that someone could give me a quick and easy way to remove the X table..... Has anybody replaced the Z axis lead screw on the X3 with a ball screw???? James From: modpodd [mailto:nick@...] Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 8:09 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] Re: X3 and stupid question You are correct, there is a ring clip and a small washer that stops the Y axis from coming out of the brass block mounted to the base. To remove the ring clip you will need a pair of pliers meant for removing external clips which means the jaws open as you close the handles. Once you have the clip off it is a simple matter to remove the Y axis screw and compound assembly from the base. If you don't mind destroying the clip, a flat bladed screw driver will also do the job. If you look on in the parts diagram that came with the mill, the parts are called out as: part 112 external ring clip part 151 washer part 153 block Once you get the clip off there is no real reason to put it back on unless you think you might machine past the limit of the screw without it. The backwards way of removing the compound assembly is to tip the mill on its side and unscrew from the bottom the two bolts that hold the block in place. --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" Hi all, Is anybody using collets? Q#1 anybody know the internal threads of the 15 piece lathemaster collet set? Q#2 LMS has a nice set of MT3 SAE collets with 3/8"-16 thread, will these work? Q#3 The metric collets I need from durham have 1.041-24 thread. Will I need a second draw bar? http://www.dunhamtool.com/5c_collet.html Q#4 Anybody know where I can get metric collets with the 3/8" -16 internal threads. Q#5 Do the lathe chucks like the eagle 5c work with both treads? Q#6 Will both the metric 5C and SAE MT3 collets fit into the spindle or do I need an adaptor? Q#7 Can I get all thread 1.041-24 thread or can I use a draw bar from another machine? I know this is a lot of questions but I am very confused when it comes to collets. If you can only answer some of these questions it would be a big help. Thanks again for your help. Chuck K| 949|948|2005-03-23 20:13:17|Green, James|Re: collet questions| I use R8 collets on the X3 milling machine and some 5C collets on a lathe. You can use MT3 collets on a 8 x 14 but you will need some type of closure device.  You will need a collet chuck for 5C collets (no drawbar needed). Bob sells 5C collet chucks that are made for the 8 x 14..... Enco and Travers should carry metric collets with 3/8" - 16 threads.........    Draw bars are machine specific and usually can't be swapped from machine to machine. First step is to call Bob and ask him about his 5C collet chuck and the rest of these questions will be answered. James From: Chuck [mailto:rchelicopter@...] Sent: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 12:57 PM To: lathemaster@yahoogroups.com Subject: [lathemaster] collet questions Hi all, Is anybody using collets? Q#1 anybody know the internal threads of the 15 piece lathemaster collet set? Q#2 LMS has a nice set of MT3 SAE collets with 3/8"-16 thread, will these work? Q#3 The metric collets I need from durham have 1.041-24 thread. Will I need a second draw bar? http://www.dunhamtool.com/5c_collet.html Q#4 Anybody know where I can get metric collets with the 3/8" -16 internal threads. Q#5 Do the lathe chucks like the eagle 5c work with both treads? Q#6 Will both the metric 5C and SAE MT3 collets fit into the spindle or do I need an adaptor? Q#7 Can I get all thread 1.041-24 thread or can I use a draw bar from another machine? I know this is a lot of questions but I am very confused when it comes to collets. If you can only answer some of these questions it would be a big help. Thanks again for your help. Chuck K | 950|948|2005-03-23 22:13:51|Jack|Re: collet questions|Hi, I went for the 5c collect chuck (It's a nice piece of tooling) for my 8x14. I went with it because of the standards of the threads and the range of collects and accessories made for it, oh and there is no drawbar. When I get my mill from Bob it will have a R8 collect taper. Jack --- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Green, James" | 951|948|2005-03-24 03:53:57|Chuck|Re: collet questions|Hi all, I spoke to Bob and an eagle 5c collet chuck is on its way to me. It will solve all the questions and it looks like a nice chuck. Thanks guys Chuck K Hi Jack, does this mean that I will have to buy a set of R8 collets for the X3 when I get one? Is there an adapter of some sort? Chuck K | 952|948|2005-03-24 04:30:26|Jack|Re: collet questions|Hi Chuck, Yes, you'll need a set of collects for it too. You can get a drill chuck with a R8 shank for the center drills and drill bits and R8 collects sizes for the end mills you'll be using to mill with. I've been looking for a quick change holder system for it, but haven't found what I'm looking for.... yet (a 5c collect holder with a R8 shank might work). Jack | 953|948|2005-03-24 04:42:05|Mark|Re: collet questions|I bought an eagle 5c from Bob over a year ago via Ebay. After carefully making the step dia on my backplate I mounted the Eagle on my PoS HF 3in1. The OD's though looking precision ground ran out like a dogs hind leg. Yet despite using only import 5c's of the lesser $$ the collets ran stock within 10ths TIR. Its a great chuck for the money and mine is well within the .001 claimed. Cheers Mark| 954|947|2005-03-24 11:53:13|cba_melbourne|Re: X table and ball screw|James, just remove the black bushing plate at the left end of the table, its held by 2 screws, and there are two tapered pins for locating it. Then advance the table to the right until the leadscrew is free, and slide the table off to the right. Its as heavy as it looks, so prepare a suitable place to put it beforehand. If you want, you can remove the right hand plate with the handle and leadscrew before sliding the table off. Probably not a good idea unless you want to cnc it. Ball screws are not self hemming. The inbuilt gas strut has not a perfectly linear force. With the head fully up, the force is about 6kg too low to balance the head. And with the head fully down, its about 3 kg too stong (at least on my X3, this strut does not look like a precision component and yours may vary). If you install a ball screw, the head will have a tendency to move by itself when not locked. Only if you replaced the gas strut with a counterweight could you perfectly balance the head. But with a ball screw, it would still move by itself during a cut if the head is not firmly locked. Chris| 955|955|2005-03-24 12:27:07|die_wizard|Adjusting X3|Hello, I got my X3 (I am quite happy with it) last year. Since, then I have been following this group but I don not think there was a discussion on practical ways of adjusting the axis on it. In case of my X3 after all the cleanup (without disassembling it) I wanted to adjust gibs to make sure that everything is smooth and tight. The Y axis was not a problem but I have spent 2 evenings on X axis without getting anywhere. Finally, I realized that something must be wrong and took the table apart. After inspecting it, I have found out the cause of the problem. The surface on the right side (gib side) of the saddle (X ) has not been finished flat. I have spotted it and then spent couple of evenings scraping it. I got it to the point where I think it is quite OK based on my previous experience with mini-mill. What bugs me now is the question whether it is really good? Since, I do not have any other X3 for reference except for Y axis on mine, I thought I ask the group couple of questions. Has anybody had similar experience with the adjustment? What is "tight" for this mill? How hard is it to move the table? Pawel| 956|956|2005-03-24 19:53:30|furypilot2002|OT Messate (few more days)|Their is a few more days left be for they anoucnce a winner http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8996 for mach and gecko drives.| 957|957|2005-03-24 21:26:37|mineralman55|CNC an X3|Check out some folks' efforts at cncing their X3 mills. Follow all the links in the messages after this one. LarryO http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8491&page=1&pp=10| 958|955|2005-03-25 07:34:46|cba_melbourne|Re: Adjusting X3|Pawel, I did not notice this on mine. See my message 674 about problems with the gib screws I had. This could well be a common problem. It causes the table to bind as soon as jou try to adjust the gib. Once fixed the gib problem, its a very smooth movement without play. I did also remove all bronze lead screw nut blocks. Milled them flat with a small recess between the mounting holes, scraped the cast iron surfaces they rest on flat, discarded the tapered alignment pins, and realigned them properly. One I had to fit with 4 grub screws to level, as it ended up too low. On the handwheel bearing brackets I rebored in the lathe all axial bearing seats, thet were totally crook. Added zerk fittings for easy greasing. On one I had to insert an oilite bushing (the lower one for the vertical leadscrew in the column) cause the hole for the leadscrew shaft was 0.2mm too big. There was certainly some improvement in overall smoothness and feel. Its all a matter of how far one wants to go, I have fun making it into a good mill. Chris| 959|894|2005-03-27 01:51:28|Jack|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14|Hi John, In a earlier post you talked about using a 2:1 or 3:1 gear reduction... How good is the precision using toothed belts and pulleys? I've been looking at some 452 oz/in steppers from Camtronics.... Do you think with those motors I could run them 1:1 or direct hookup? Thanks, Jack P.S. input from all on this subject is wanted (needed)!| 960|894|2005-03-27 02:55:31|john labutski|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14| Hello Jack, I plan on using nema 23's xl sized belts and 3 to one to start. I will initially be using a xylotex bipolar driver board that I use on my mini-mill conversion. The sweet spot on nema 23's goes out to about 450 rpm.   The sweet spot on nema34's goes out to 250 rpm if you look at the torque bands. this tells me that 2 to 1 gearing or higher should be plenty for the 8x14. In essence over 500 inch ounces to 250 rpm with a nema 23. I expect rapids to be in the range of 25 to 40 inches per minute. Only real world testing will tell me if I am correct. If the xylotex board doesn't have enough poop, I will try my hobbycnc board and after that a gecko 201. I look at accuracy as a combination of ballscrew quality, ballnuts, gearing, etc. Single repacked ballnuts are giving me about .001 across a two inch span with 5/8ths single lead .200 lead ball screws on my x axis of the mini-mill using my two inch dial indicator.. I have a second 8x14 on order for this project. I will completely removed the compound and home brew a six or eight position automatic indexing stepper driven tool post setup (using the 3rd driver axis) after completing x and a axis. The final part of the project is a 5c collet spindle retrofit. This one I am still in the planning stages with. I am not much for building steam engines or other projects, but I love adding motors to machines. I had originally planned to cnc my 7x10 HF mini-lathe, but the retrofit costs will only be a few more dollars to do an 8x14 and then I will have a cnc machine worth having for the size of projects I currently build using my original 8x14. If you can wait about a month, I should have it up and running with a standard quick change tool post at a minimum. I have all the parts, but a few other projects are in the way right now. John Ocala Florida | 961|894|2005-03-27 07:19:30|Jack|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14|John, I can see I need to do more research on the stepper motors... I didn't know that the (sweetspot) '23's' rpm ratings were higher then the '34's'. I'm thinking about starting with the gecko 201's, although for the price of the geckos I could get a hobbycnc or FET-3 complete kit. Your getting .001 over 2 inches... are you using belts and pullies? Is it the ballnut/ballscrew or belt/gearing? The gearing, is it to make more tougue or more ipm? I worked for 20 years in manufacturing and have been wanting some machines at home for messing around with (I miss it).... I wasn't sure what I was going to make with them until I started researching the possiblity of cnc retofitting. Now, that sounds like fun. I don't want to make steam engines or model cars, etc... but like you, putting motors on things and seeing if they work, now that sounds like fun (OK, maybe an RC car/plane, but they too have motors). It will be at least June before I start my conversion. I must wait on my X3 to make it's boat trip, visit US customs, go get some cajun food, and then come to it's final resting place (soonerland).I'll be doing both the 8x14 and X3. Thanks, Jack| 962|894|2005-03-27 16:24:43|john labutski|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14| Hello Jack, Take a look at the charts that Automationdirect.com has for their bipolar stepper motors. These charts represent their motors with their drives. Getting more expensive drives and running at higher voltages will improve performance somewhat, but in general the amps and rpm pretty well determine real world performance. I do not have the gecko drives yet. However I am quite happy with Xylotex and hobbycnc products. In my case, I determined that since about 85 percent of the run time is at slower feeds, rapids performance was irrelevant as long as I have the torque to cut and not loose steps. This is why I chose cog pulley setups. In addition direct drive even with flexible couplers requires dead on alignment, or you loose torque in overcoming the misalignment. The gearing in my case is for more torque and lower rpms and staying in the sweet range of the stepper. Remember you can always upgrade to the bigger stuff and sell what you start with relatively easy via one of the cnc groups. I just purchased some 80 inch ounce steppers from a guy going up to 200 inch ounce steppers. The price was fair to both of us. I first started with the xylotex board and the 276 inch ounce steppers. My next kit was the hobbycnc which included 200 inch steppers, powersupply, and board kit. I then ordered three more boards from hobbycnc. This area of Florida is just plain nasty from a power standpoint. Lightning shows up a moments notice and zaps stuff on regular basis. The thing I liked about the hobbycnc boards is that they are not surface mount components. Accordingly, I can repair them myself because all components have thru hole mounting. The 200 inch ounce steppers perform about the same as the 276 inch ounce steppers because of the current limitation (2.5 amps) on the xylotex board versus 3 amps on the hobbycnc setup. Don't get me wrong the xylotex is a nice setup and the motors run a bit cooler. I personally do not like using current limiting resistors as in the FET-3 kit. However, a lot of guys are happy with their products. Since your getting an x3, why not start with 200 inch steppers and build a router or one of the John Kleinbauer designs. This will allow you to get your feet wet, learn gcode, and experiment with cnc in general. Believe it or not, what ever you build will be a very useful handy tool. In my case, I am going to build the "brute" design by John Kleinbauer. This will allow me to make custom plastic connectors for my ham radio projects. I can stuff the machine in a small 18 x18x 18 box and put it right on my desk next to my computer in the bedroom and run from my uninteruptible power supply. I am on my third and 4th cnc projects. I use cheap computers from 123compute.com which come with a 30 day guarantee and windows 98 and cost about 85 bucks delivered to Florida.  An turbocnc is free or 60 bucks with source code ( I purchased the source code to support future development). I got my 24volt power supplies from mpja.com for $29.00. You know most guys think that they will just want one super magic machine when they start the cnc hobby. I have found once you see the nifty stuff this can do repetitively, it kind of opens your mind to things you never thought of. The main challenge is to build something and get it to work well. Once you have done that, the sky is the limit. Then all the things that may be a bit confusing now, fall into place. In my case I have always wanted some connectors with 24 pins on .125 centers with allen screw lockdown in a certain shape. No one makes them. However since I need 32 of these turkeys cnc is the answer. The idea of drilling 1536 holes and tapping 768 of them turns me off every time I think about this. Cnc makes this a 3 hour job instead of 6 days. And of that it would be mostly watching the machine plod along. And this can be done on a homebrew mill/router such as the "brute" using 1/4-20 threaded stock for lead screws and 80 inch ounce steppers. I have an enco x y table I will start adding cnc to this week. I plan to be able to put it on my 7045fg and use the big mill for 2D work. Initially I will set the z axis manually.  If this works out it will give me the best of both worlds. The ability to use my big vise on the 7045 manually and also mill pockets and such using cnc without loosing manual capability of the 7045fg is a bit exciting to me. I will have to see how it works out.  The x y table is about 5 inches high so I will loose some headroom on the 7045fg but I plan to use clamping instead of a vise. Finally before I get too long winded, I prefer cog pulleys, ballscrews and ballnuts for bigger projects such as the xy table or your x3.. Even though they are coarser in lead, you have a 90 to 95 percent efficiency. In other words your not loosing torque to friction. Cog pulleys allow you easy changes in gearing. Just swap one pulley and slide the motor one direction or the other to tighten the belt and your done. Have fun, you are entering the most exciting portion of hobby machining. BTW I sure wish I had had the x3 to cnc instead of the mini-mill. Costs would have been only about 40 bucks more. John Ocala Florida From: Jack | 963|963|2005-03-27 19:10:05|Bob Dellicker|9x30 Lathe Specs|Those of you who have purchased the new 9x30 lathe could you help me get an idea of how hard it would be to get home and into my basement? I haven't seen weight and dimensions for in and out of the shipping crate. If you have an idea of how manageable the bed and head assembly would be for one person (and a hand truck) I'd love to know your opinion on that too. One look at the picture of the 9x30 convinced me that I'd be happier with it than the 8x14. I like to be able to get the tailstock and saddle well out of the way when I'm concentrating on getting things set up right in a 4 jaw chuck and such. Thanks, Bob D.| 964|894|2005-03-27 19:33:08|Jack|Re: Anyone CNC thier 8x14|John, Thanks again for all the info.... I thinking about the hobbycnc kit to start with (get my feet wet). I have some G-code experience. I have done some manual programming and editing of g-code programs. I have also used Pro/E to do a little Cad/Cam a couple of times. I also have programmed CMM's (coordinate measuring machine) for DCC (direct computer control) and was 3,4, and 5-axis leadperson at an aerospace company. Well I gotta go now, Supercross is coming on.......... Thanks again, Jack P.S. X3 -VS- 7045| 965|963|2005-03-28 06:58:50|str3kgt|Re: 9x30 Lathe Specs|--- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Dellicker" I am very interested in the 9x30 as well and I was wondering the same thing. I was hoping to find some more information and stats on this board but there isn't much available. Im going to call the owner tomorrow and I'll let you know what he says.| 966|963|2005-03-28 07:33:06|BOB & CINDY WRIGHT|Re: 9x30 Lathe Specs|I can relate this to carrying my SB 10K 10x3 1/2'. Two people should be able to carry the 9x30 down the steps. Its easier to remove everything you can off the lathe first...Bob | 967|963|2005-03-28 07:46:58|gmdagena2000|Re: 9x30 Lathe Specs|Bob, -You will like the 9x30 much better than the 8x14. When I stepped up from a 7x10 to a 9x20 (non-lathemaster) a whole world of standard length tooling opened up to me that would not work in the 7x10 because it was to long. This included keyless chucks, Silver and Deming drills, quality live centers, pipe centers..etc, because the distance between centers on the 7x10 limited me to more expensive and harder to find screw-machine drills, short chucks, and short centers, which still was there was a limitation. Put your self in this situation: You are turning a part that leaves you with, after live center, leaves only 2" left on the the end of your bed, using an 8x14. Your next operation is drilling a 1/2" hole in the end of this part, and you have a Jacobs drill chuck and a 6" long 1/2 drill. You don't have the space left on the bed, and the part deosn't fit in the spindle bore to give you enough room. A 9x30 allows you make this part. I was in that situation more often than I care to remember with my 7x10. That has rarely come up with my 9x20. I have not cut a part over 12" in length, but the 20" between centers has given me good room for tooling that makes things possible that wasn't possible before. To me, a 9" lathe with 20 to 30" between centers satisfies most small lathe needs most people have. If you make model ship fittings or parts for small engines, a lathe with under 15" between centers will probably do everything you need. The only reason I keep my 7x10, is that it is relatively portable, and can be easily moved to whereever it is needed. The 9x20 isn't portable and needs dedicated shop space. -Gabe -- In lathemaster@yahoogroups.com, "str3kgt" | 968|968|2005-03-28 16:09:15|edmcdwll|9x30|Buy the 9x30, uncrate it, remove everything and 2 guy can carry it into a basement. Everyone worries about getting the thing set up on a bench and everyone gets it there one way or another. I have never heard of a lathe remanining on the floor very long. Just do it, you will be happy.| 969|163|2005-03-28 16:29:35|lathemaster@yahoogroups.com|New file uploaded to lathemaster |Hello, This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the lathemaster group. File : /Seig X3 Mill/Seig X3 Parts Diagram.pdf Uploaded by : daddyo217 <daddyo217@... Description : Parts List from Factory Manual You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/lathemaster/files/Seig%20X3%20Mill/Seig