This is a Emud Record Junior 196 AM/FM USA version. A compact table top with the circuitry of the famed German Engineered Radios. Schematic and alignment (Sams) can be found at www.Radiomuseum.org.

This unit is one that I have restored and used in the shop as a "daily driver".

Newly refinished cabinet.

The chassis has been restored just like the one depicted below.

Another 196

		Take a picture of where the speaker wires go.		Original under chassis. R17 V3 Screen bias resistor is burnt.
Document the cap wires.	I think these *new 47uf 450v caps will fit.*	It is handy to use pipe cutter.	Remove the guts.	The 350 volt caps are larger than *these 450 volt units.*
This is the re-stuffed cap back in the chassis. Also note the crispy critter resistor (R6 B+ line) in the FM tuner section.	This has been replaced with a 2 watt metal oxide resistor. This is not the first crispy resistor found. Some thing is up.	Oh boy! See the ~30 amp strap across the 1 amp fuse?	I bet some one had a couple of shorted tubes and blew this fuse and later the two resistors when the fuse no longer opened up.	Checking the resistors.
	This electrostatic checks good. This capacitance is comparable to other tweeters that I have rebuilt. A low buzz can be heard as induced by the cap checker.		Go To www.Radiomuseum.org for the whole document.	Restored and aligned chassis.
The power switch mechanics have been cleaned and lubricated. There is some wear on the part that hold the power switch in the off position. I would always unplug this unit when not in use.	The tweeter may be working now but it will soon stop. The dark brown foam is original and hard. If you touch it, it crumbles. The yellow is the new soft foam.		The capacitance increased. That indicates to me that a better connection from the contact to the diaphragm and/or the diaphragm is closer to the metal grill.
The case was cleaned with Mineral Spirits.		The missing paper has been painted.	3 coats of hand rubbed paste wax.

A third Emud Model 196 Junior

The Emud is a little Grundig dated back to about 1960 as determined by the Sam's photofact pages. It has a great tube line up with a ECC85, EZ80, ECH81, EBF89, EAA91 and a ECL82. All the tubes tested good in this unit. The cabinet is in great shape. A little cleaning, Teak oil and some paste wax will shine up the finish.

There is an oval dynamic speaker and a ceramic high impedance electrostatic tweeter. These can be seen in the pictures below. The dark brown round unit on the inside cabinet picture, to the right of the oval speaker is the electrostatic tweeter.

	Cover sheet of Sam's displaying frequency coverage
Under chassis. Green/yellow electrolytic on the right. Gray/black power resistor to the right of the power transformer on left.	All tubes tested on a calibrated, B&K model 700, Gm Mutual conductance tester.		Some dial scale paint blistered from rust.
Dial scale remove, protected and stored from damage.	This can cap will take one new capacitor. The other will be mounted under the chassis.	Dried out insides of the dual section filter cap C1a and C1b
UL rated safety caps for C52 and C53.	Tight fit under the metal bracket. Original RF bypass caps C52/53.

Electronic Restoration

Restoration is in progress at this time. So far I have found several bad components that would prohibit the unit from functioning.

R27, 1000 ohm 5 watt resistor that supplies B+ to all but the Audio output tube was open. The open resistor was rated at 2 watts (the gray/black powered tube to the right of the big power transformer. However, the Sam's schematic lists it as a 5 watt. It has been replaced with a 10 watt resistor. The new resistor should run nice and cool. Since the original resistor was open the radio should have been rendered non-functional or dead except for the audio output tube and the dial lamps.

I do not power up radios until after component restoration (replacement of electrolytic filter capacitors, wax/paper caps and out of tolerance resistors). Vintage radios can have multiple problems that may just ruin good components like a power transformer or burn up a rectifier tube. Some components are just not available unless one is lucky enough to find a donor chassis.

The other most visually obvious failed component is capacitor C10 in the FM RF section. It looked like it was calcified and covered in some sort of powdery deposits. And not just a light dusting. But it looked as though it grew crystals out of it. That cap was replaced by a dipped silver mica rated at 600 volts. I speculate the capacitor had failed from either humidity, a manufacturing flaw or an over voltage condition.

There are four electrolytic capacitors including the dual section filter cap. All were way out of tolerance. All were replaced. You can see two of them on the right side of the underside chassis picture near the out put transformer. They are yellow/green in color.

You can see two white covered paper capacitors in the middle of the chassis. These are all over the unit. These types of caps crumbled in my fingers when removed. And tested way out of tolerance. I check all removed components for value. I do not reinstall components that happen to be in tolerance. My experiences have shown these caps and some resistors (power, carbon composition) go bad shortly after power is restored. It may take a month or two or six. But you will be back in there finding the failed part if you leave them in.

All replacement components were checked appropriately (capacitance meter(s) and ohm meters) for proper value and tolerance. There are some capacitors seemingly specified, some within, 2.5% of value and others at 5%. I specifically pulled and matched capacitors with in those marked tolerances.

Alignment

I performed the first full alignment tonight (September 15). It is a real thrill when the sensitivity of a radio climes and climes while adjusting the tuning slugs. A before and after alignment listening test is quite impressive. The radio adjusted in easily with no problems. The only exception being the travel of the frequency indicator does not travel to the lower extreme of the dial (88Mhz/515Khz). There is a mechanical limit to the actual travel of the dial cord, tuning gang and main pulley attached to the tuning gang. However, this does not stop the radio from covering the designed frequency coverage.

You will notice the dial glass has been removed. This is intentional and is done to protect it from damage. It will be reinstalled when the radio is complete and ready to return to operational display.

I will perform another full alignment and recheck all voltage reference points (B+, Grid voltages, Screen voltages and any documented reference voltage) after a 24 hour burn in period. I will also sag or dip the line voltage to ensure acceptable performance over a "relatively" wide range of line voltages. This is more critical with short wave radio oscillators and battery powered radios on the higher frequencies around 15 to 20 Mhz.

All bias voltages checked good, with in tolerances and proportional to documented numbers. The radio was operated in a sag line voltage condition at 90 volts. The internal oscillator kept working on both bands (AM, FM) up and down the scale. A bit down on the volume but still operational. (Do not sag the voltage of solid state (transistor) gear. The transistors do not like (too much current) when this happens, get hot and let the magic smoke out. Some units may have power supplies that compensate but most do not.) This test is most significant with Transoceanic restorations. It ensures the selenium to silicon diode replacement was properly calculated.

Dial Scale Background

The Dial scale background metal had rusted, thus blistering the paint. This was color matched at the local hobby shop with Testor spray paint. The ladies at the hobby shop recommended a shade of olive drab. It looks quite good. See below.

Sanded and painted with Testor's #1265 Flat Olive Drab paint.

Reassembled and looking great!

Original blistered paint.

Electrostatic Speaker

The electrostatics speaker (tweeter) was dead in this radio. There was no sound coming from it. I could move the positive contact around and hear intermittent distant sounds. A replacement looked like it would be necessary. So I disassembled the unit and had a crack at it. Click the picture to see the story:

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