SABA Phono Super 125

	Push the tone arm to the right to start the platter motor.	This crystal cartridge has low output. It has been replaced. The 33-45 needle was worn out. The tone arm skated across the records. But not with a new needle.		The motor switch-off cam needed adjusted. The motor shuts off at the end of record. I used two fruit crates as a work support. The power computer speaker was a convenient monitor.
				Replacement tuning indicator.
Selenium bypassed with a silicon diode and 68 ohm resistor.	Restored underside.	Tone control was split. I used plastic weld and reinforced with epoxy.	This is how the knob looks from behind. You can not see the epoxy from the front.

SABA Villigen 125

This unit was not as lucky as the one above. It must have took a hit or drop in shipping. The front panel metal chassis bent, flexing the glass. And glass does not flex so it broke. I hope to find a replacement or reproduction from a European resource. (See the Vendors under the Links page and the Dial Scale page).

Seen here on Radiomuseum.org

The dial scale has arrived. It was great luck to find one.

This site has used dial scales.

The restoration begins

			After forming little by little the chassis is straight. The replacement glass fits with out interference.
			This cap has a shield and ground wire.	Wrap the aluminum duct tape around the new cap and ground wire.	Make sure the ground wire contacts the bare metal shield.
I don't know if it is important but I made up the capacitance from the Capacitor to ground shield with a parallel cap.	Heat is shrink used to hold the work together and provide electrical insulation.	Label on the FM tuner.	Checking for caps and resistors inside the tuner.	B+ measured ~176v	Things got a little hot in this selenium rectifier!
This looked like a good idea. But there is not enough room in the case. The resistor has to be mounted external to the case.	1N4007	Make two top painted lamps. The original has red glipt on it.	This burnt cathode resistor foreshadows a bad output tube. It tests good in a tester but hums and draws high current in the chassis.	Before brass cleaning	Restored.
This looks nice with the replacement dial glass.	Brasso to the rescue.

The original ECL82 (6BM8) has a short. A new tube performs well with out hum and pulling the B+ down. I put a series resistor in line with the diode. I selected the resistance by trial and error measurement. I set the line voltage selector to 125v by measuring the filament supply.

Click here for schematic.

Packing

I did not want to take a chance at the replacement dial glass getting broken again so I built a wooden crate.

This wooden box should protect the dial glass.	The joints are glued.	Bubble wrap used to keep anything that comes loose from bouncing around.
The top is NOT glued.	Four bottom screws secure the chassis to the box.	The box is wrapped in three inches of bubble wrap. This should absorb any shock and allow for deceleration and decreased shock to the chassis and dial glass. But as you know this is no guarantee of a safe delivery. The speakers have also been wrapped and set parallel to the box. A fresh new double wall heavy duty box was used.

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