This picture is the best representation of the cabinet's color when directly viewed.  

You can see the difference between the sides and the top of the cabinet colors.  It is a two tone leatherette tan.  You can see tiny nuts and bolts on the lower left and right side of the antenna.  These are the connections to the primary coil winding of the antenna .  One contact goes to a long wire the other to ground. According to the schematic, these were originally loops of bare wire. 

This compares the original with the reproduction back panel and model number sticker. The sticker was "aged" with a toned lacquer spray. 

Original             Reproduction.

I started to repair the back panel.  The corners and access door were missing.  But I found it best to recreate the back panel. The wood blocks that receive the panel screws were glued clamped and the old holes filled with epoxy.  They were later drilled to match the restoration panel. 

No flash shot color, corrected a bit. 

The next seven pictures show the radio with a much brighter hue under the photographic lamps. 

The top handle was not replaced.  The available trunk handles are long enough but are too thick to fit under the existing handle loops.  A custom handle will have to be cut and stitched from a single width of leather. 

I take plenty of pictures in case I have to establish the  original component location. 

This speaker has missing paper and has been repaired a few times.  It was replaced.

The speaker mounted output transformer has an open primary. It was replaced along with the "Swiss Cheese" speaker.  

The variable capacitors in the IF cans were contaminated.  One chewed up mica insulator was replaced.  The others were removed and cleaned with alcohol.  The silver capacitive plates were burnished to a bright shine (oxide removed).  

  Deteriorated rubber insulated wires were replaced. 

Use Alligator clip leads to keep track of where you clipped out the components or wire.

The can capacitor was replaced by three separate electrolytic capacitors soldered onto the can capacitor's leads.  Of course the can was cut off and the guts removed.  The can top was epoxy glued back together for appearances. If the can  capacitor was not gutted a significant resistance or short would appear across the power supply sections.